LU«llil 


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LOUISIANA  PURCHASE  MONUMENT— On  this  stately  shaft,  one  of  the  striking^ 
features  of  the  plaza,  were  these  words:  "The  instrument  we  have  signed  will  preface 
centuries  of  happiness  for  innumerable  generations  of  the  human  race.  The  Missouri  and 
Mississippi  will  see  them  prosper  and  increase  in  the  midst  of  equality  under  just  laws." 


THE 


THE  FAIR 


By  MARSHALL    EVERETT, 
The  Great  Descriptive  Writer,  Author  and  Historian 


The    Greatest    Exposition 

The  World   Has   Ever  Seen. 
PHOTOGRAPHED  AND  EXPLAINED. 

A  Panorama  of  the  St.  Louis  Exposition 


ILLUSTRATED    WITH 

A  Vast  Gallery  of  Pictures  Showing  all  the 
Fair  in  Photographs 


P.  W.  ZIEGLER  CO., 

PHILADEI.PHIA. 


1  C'  Ae-i- 


Copyright,  1904 

By 

Hhnry  Neil 

All  rig'hts  reserved. 


BOSTON  COLLESE 


'.  ^ 


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MAIN  ENTRANCE  TO  MANUFACTURES  BUILDING — The  massive,  imposing  main 
entrance  to  the  Palace  of  Manufactures  is  in  keeping  with  the  importance  of  the  exhibits 
within.  Above  is  a  grand  group  signifying  the  triumph  and  power  of  manufactures,  with 
bees  and  other  symbols  of  the  industries  embellishing  the  grand  sweep  of  the  arch  itself. 


FILIPINO  CONSTABULARY  IN  CAMP— Not  the  least  iuterestiug  feature  of  the  fair 
was  the  big  camp  where  the  newly  organized  military  police  from  the  Philippine  islands 
were  quartered.  They  were  a  happy  lot,  these  dusky  little  soldiers,  and  enjoyed  their  stay 
immensely.     The  camp  was  constantly  surrounded  by  curious  visitors  from  near  and  far. 


!*>,, 


MAIN  ENTRANCE  TO  PAiACE  OF  FINE  ARTS— In  the  architecture  of  its  main 
entrance  the  Fine  Arts  building  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  was  a  beautiful 
illustration  of  the  plain  and  classic,  minus  the  severe.  It  might  have  been  a  Grecian  tem- 
ple transplanted  from  the  golden  times  of  the  Laud  of  Fine  Arts. 


JEFFERSON  QUABD  ON  DUTY— An  army  of  these  young  men  policed  the  exten- 
sive groumls  of  the  exposition.  This  force  was  fashioned  after  the  Columbian  Guard 
similarly  employed  at  the  WorkVs  Columbian  Exposition  at  Chicago,  ten  years  betoie.  Jt 
maintained   discipline,  prevented  disorder  and   co-operated  with  the  police   secret   service. 


WHIRLING  DERVISH  IN  REPOSE— This  wiry-looking  dervish  of  India  whose 
wonderful  top-like  motions  have  made  his  class  famous  the  world  over,  is  for  the 
moment  in  repose.  He  has  wrapped  his  draperies  about  him  only  for  a  time.  He  will 
soon  be  spinning  around  in  a  fashion  to  make  everybody's  head  whirl  but  his  own. 


JAPANESE  GOLDEN  EAGLE — This  magnificent  specimen  of  Japanese  art  was  only 
one  of  many  that  awakened  surprise  and  admiration  for  the  cleverness  of  the  dusky  island- 
ers from  the  Land  of  the  Eising  Sun.  Vases,  urns  and  decorative  figures  in  bronze  and 
pottery,  all  of  rare  workmanship  and  value,  also  abounded. 


CHOCTAW  MOTHER  AND  CHILD— Leaping  Fawn  and  her  baby,  Screaming  Eagle, 
were  favorite  subjects  for  tlie  camera  fiends  at  the  exposition.  Dimes,  quarters,  and  even 
dollars  were  showered  up>on  Leaping  Fawn  to  induce  her  to  pose  with  her  child  because 
of  the  strength  of  her  typical  Choctaw  face. 


A  HAPPY  FAMILY — This  Indian  maid,  her  parents  and  the  hut  they  occupied  at  the 
Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  are  shown,  as  the  inmates  posed  for  the  camera.  The  child, 
Fragrant  Blossom,  was  the  recipient  of  much  attention.  She  is  pretty  and  as  bright  as 
any  child  of  her  age. 


THE  SIM-A-LA-LA  MAN — Typical  early  morning  scene  on  the  Pike.  The  Egyptian 
"spieler,"  his  pet  monkey  and  the  patient  ass  have  gone  forth  before  the  advent  of  the 
crush  to  enjoy  the  rising  sun.  The  avenue  of  all  nations  is  deserted  at  this  hour,  save  for 
a  few  stragglers. 


THE  AINTJ  GIRL— There  is  n  <I.mm,|,m1  sn--("-tion  of  mascnlinity  about  this  femin- 
ine representative  of  the  Ainu,  an  aboriginal  tribe  hailing  from  Northern  Japan.  She 
has  no  mustache,  however,  but  has  executed  a  piece  of  tattoo  work  upon  her  upper 
lip,  which  she  doubtless  considers  in  keeping  with  her  not  unbecoming  costume. 


AUTHOR'S    PREFACE 

IT  WAS  with  respectful  and  awed  appreciation  of  the  magnitude 
of  the  task  that  these  pages  were  written.  Standing  at  the  foot  of 
that  giant  staircase,  the  Cascades,  the  like  of  which  no  human  eye 
ever  beheld  until  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  was  con- 
ceived, the  writer  first  realized  the  ponderous  immensity  of  the  subject. 
It  is  with  a  spirit  of  deferential  tribute  that  grateful  acknowledgment 
is  made  to  the  master  minds  that  conceived  the  exposition,  affording 
in  its  execution  inspiration  for  this  work. 

Greater  and  more  important  achievements  that  will  make  marvels 
of  today  appear  of  infinitesimal  insignificance  will  yet  receive  their 
inspiration  from  this  fair  and  generations  of  men  unborn  will  reap  the 
harvest  of  its  potent  influence  upon  the  world.  Realizing  this  and  con- 
scious of  the  fact  that  throughout  all  time  nothing  approaching  its 
extent  or  magnificence  has  been  produced  through  the  energy  or  in- 
genuity of  man,  it  is  not  strange  that  the  task  of  recording  its  develop- 
ment and  blossoming-forth  is  approached  with  reverence. 

All  that  is  or  has  been  awaits  the  studious  visitor,  to  yield  to  him 
vast  stores  of  knowledge  when  subjected  to  his  close  scrutiny.  Indeed 
someone  has  said  that  were  a  dire  disaster  to  befall,  bringing  chaos 
and  ruin  to  all  the  world  save  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  en- 
closure, civilization,  order  and  current  conditions  could  be  restored 
from  the  fragments  through  the  influence  of  the  fair  and  its  classified 
treasures.  Only  a  few  years  ago  it  would  have  required  a  life-time 
and  a  vast  fortune  to  encompass  the  globe,  to  see  far  less  than  now  falls 
under  observation  during  a  half  day  spent  at  the  fair.  Verily  this  is 
progress— a  boon  to  all  mankind.  In  the  great  school  of  human  ex- 
perience never  before  has  there  been  offered  so  large  and  finely  equipped 
a  volume,  to  contribute  to  the  knowledge  of  nations  and  of  men,  as  is 
this  fair,  Happy  he  whose  opportunity  it  is  to  study  it  at  close  range, 
to  see  and  to  hear  all  that  has  been  gathered  for  his  edification.    Fail- 


AtJTHOR'S   PREFACE 

ing  in  that,  perchance  this  handbook  may  fill  the  gap  in  a  measure  and 
convey  some  faint  conception  of  what  has  been  missed. 

Who  shall  say  when  man  will  again  muster  courage  to  expend  the 
labor,  the  golden  millions  and  the  human  life  that  such  an  exposition 
cost  f  Lives  and  fortunes  were  alike  the  forfeit  that  made  possible  the 
scene  that  is  turning  the  eyes  of  all  the  civilized  world  to  St.  Louis. 
It  is  proper,  then,  and  meet  that  this  grand  fair,  or  so  much  as  is 
possible  of  it,  shall  be  preserved  for  all  time,  that  all  who  seek  may 
acquaint  themselves  with  its  marvels.  It  is  equally  important  that 
those  who  will  journey  to  the  fair  may  know  in  advance  fully  whereof 
they  have  heard  so  much  and  that  those  who  cannot  behold  its  beauties 
through  personal  visitation  may  at  least  share  its  delights  through 
recourse  to  these  pages. 

It  is  with  a  view  of  fulfilling  this  triune  mission  that  these  words 
are  indicted.  If  you  who  read  these  lines  can  be  guided  in  fancy  over 
the  plaza,  the  parades,  drives,  lanes  and  lagoons  that  thread  the  exposi- 
tion it  is  the  aim  to  make  this  trip  together,  drinking  deeply  of  the 
fountain  of  knowledge  and  partaking  without  stint  of  the  good  things 
that  abound.  Never  before  has  there  been  such  a  bountiful  spread 
so  freely  placed  before  us.  It  is  doubtful  if  there  will  be  such  another 
within  the  span  of  our  lives. 

If  the  reader  is  of  the  same  mind  it  will  be  with  a  spirit  of  trepida- 
tion, yet  eagerness,  that  he  will  pursue  the  footsteps  of 

THE  AUTHOE. 


PUBLISHER'S    PREFACE 

IN  PRESENTING  this  volume  two  purposes  have  governed  its  pub- 
lication. It  is  intended  to  impart  to  the  reader  a  thorough  con- 
ception of  the  almost  unlimited  educational  opportunities  pre- 
sented by  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition,  the  greatest  show 
the  world  has  ever  seen,  and  at  the  same  time  to  divert,  amuse  and 
entertain. 

No  subject  could  afford  greater  opportunity  to  the  writer  than  this 
grand  assemblage  of  all  that  is  useful  and  artistic  and  that  makes  for 
the  advancement  and  bettennent  of  mankind  in  general.  That  which 
cannot  be  conveyed  to  the  mind  by  words  is  depicted  through  the  art  of 
the  photographer  and  engraver.  Serious  subjects  have  been  treated 
in  that  vein,  ranging  from  the  tortuous  rise  of  man  from  early  savagery 
to  breezy  descriptions  of  the  artistic  triumphs  displayed  in  the  palace 
devoted  to  varied  industries.  The  lighter  and  more  diverting  features 
of  the  great  fair  are  handled  in  a  manner  calculated  to  accord  to  this 
volume  a  popularity  not  often  enjoyed  by  works  covering  as  broad  a 
field. 

It  has  been  the  aim  to  make  this  of  more  than  passing  interest. 
Designed  as  a  handbook  of  the  St.  Louis  fair  to  serve  as  a  complete 
guide  to  the  prospective  visitor  and  a  substitute  and  solace  to  the  less 
favored  who  are  unable  to  make  the  trip,  sufficient  attention  has  been 
devoted  to  details  to  make  it  a  condensed  encyclopedia.  Interesting 
facts  and  figures  giving  new  views  of  life  and  conditions  in  various 
parts  of  Europe,  Africa,  Asia,  the  islands  of  the  sea— yes,  and  in  our 
own  land,  America— are  arrayed  beside  interesting  narratives  of  the 
development  of  the  past  and  of  our  own  times  in  the  field  of  agriculture, 
horticulture,  manufacturing  industry,  trade,  commerce  and  the  higher 
sciences. 

Never  before  has  such  a  mass  of  material  been  brought  to  the  door 
of  the  investigator  from  which  to  abstract  bright  things  of  human 


PUBLISHER'S    PREFACE 

interest.  Fairs  and  expositions  of  other  days  fade  away  as  insignificant 
when  compared  with  this.  It  is  as  though  the  day  of  judgment  were 
at  hand  and  the  people  of  this  old  globe  and  those  who  have  preceded 
them  far  back  into  the  misty  realms  of  the  past  were  summoned  with 
their  best  works  to  receive  awards  according  to  the  merit  displayed. 

All  that  this  grey  old  earth  has  produced  from  the  dawn  of  creation 
to  the  present  hour  is  on  hand  to  be  reviewed  and  judged.  Thus  trav- 
eling with  the  author,  the  reader  is  led  through  all  the  various  stages 
of  development  that  have  characterized  the  unfolding  of  the  grand  plan 
of  the  Creator.  Wealth,  beauty  and  achievement  have  given  their  best 
products  for  his  edification  and  he  needs  but  lend  a  willing  ear  to 
receive  a  message  of  force,  power  and  progress,  speaking  out  with 
eloquence  above  the  noisy  glamour  of  the  fair. 

If  that  message  is  accepted  and  from  the  glittering,  glorious  glad- 
ness of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  the  readers  of  this  volume 
derive  a  new  and  stronger  faith  in  the  possibilities  of  man,  in  the  cer- 
tainty of  fruitful  reward  through  tireless  effort  and  a  broader,  more 
intelligent  conception  of  the  joy  of  living  and  of  achieving,  the  presses 
that  gave  this  volume  birth  will  not  have  ground  in  vain. 

THE  PUBLISHER. 


PREFACE 

NEVER  before  in  the  history  of  mankind  has  the  human  eye  been 
accorded  such  a  feast  of  art  and  beauty  as  is  lavishly  spread 
forth  at  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition,  St.  Louis.  An 
unending  panorama  of  all  that  appeals  to  the  artistic  and  aes- 
thetic senses;  the  great  world's  fair  is  destined  to  be  a  joy— alas,  not 
forever. 

In  this  volume  an  attempt  has  been  made  to  depict  some  of  the 
most  striking  scenes  that  greet  the  visitor  who  journeys  to  the  exposi- 
tion city  on  the  Father  of  Waters.  The  highest  art  and  most  modern 
and  complete  appliances  of  the  photographer  have  been  employed  to 
assemble  the  magnificent  collection  of  pictures  that  grace  this  work. 
Yet  may  it  be  said  in  all  truth,  that  neither  the  brush  of  the  painter, 
the  microscopic-like,  all-detecting  lens  of  the  camera  nor  the  pen  of 
the  ablest  writer  can  convey  any  adequate  conception  of  the  majestic 
vision  of  beauty  unfolded  at  this  greatest  of  expositions. 

Laughing  waters  dashing  lightly  down  the  myriad  tiny  falls  that 
constitute  the  masterpiece  of  the  fair— The  Cascades.  Countless  lights 
gleaming  from  above,  classic  architecture  looming  up  in  massive  piles 
on  either  side,  noble  figures  attesting  the  skill  of  modem  sculptors  and 
the  mellow  strains  of  the  greatest  musical  organizations  America  af- 
fords blend  together  in  a  tout  ensemble,  suggesting  to  the  beholder 
a  celestial  vision  rather  than  an  earthly  experience. 

The  surpassing  feature  of  each  element  that  enters  into  the  marvel- 
ous creation  St.  Louis  has  given  to  the  world,  will  be  found  reproduced 
within  to  the  best  of  the  ability  of  photographer  and  engraver.  The 
unrivalled  Cascades,  whose  wealth  of  life,  action,  grace  and  color 
eclipses  anything  mortal  man  has  hitherto  produced,  are  to  be  seen  from 
several  viewpoints.  The  excellence  of  the  large  engravings  devoted  to 
this  piece  de  resistance  are  such  that  one  can  almost  hear  the  dash  of  the 
purling  waters  in  looking  upon  them. 

Here,  too,  will  be  found  reproductions  of  the  statuary  in  stone. 


PREFACE 

bronze,  jade  and  staff  that  has  contributed  so  much  to  the  tone  of  the 
great  show  of  shows.  The  heroic  figures  that  stand  out  against  the 
sky  line  above  the  palace  entrances,  the  panels,  arches  and  shafts  that 
abound  on  every  hand,  the  finer  French  and  Italian  carvings  in  which 
the  resistless  beauty  of  the  human  form  are  impressed  upon  one  until 
he  marvels  in  awed  silence  at  the  excellence  of  the  works  of  God— all 
these  and  many  more  of  similar  character,  will  be  found  transferred  to 
these  pages  with  the  accuracy  that  only  the  camera  affords. 

The  palaces  themselves  are  shown  in  their  solemn  white  beauty,  an 
immaculate  array  of  structures  that  carries  the  spectator  back  to  the 
days  of  Greek  and  Roman  splendor.  State  and  foreign  buildings,  too, 
are  pictured  together  with  their  most  interesting  and  novel  displays. 

And  now  the  Pike!  Throbbing  with  life  and  action  and  bubbling 
over  with  limnan  interest,  a  psychological  and  sociological  gold  mine — 
what  pictures  the  Pike  suggests !  Fakir  and  faker,  solemn  sad  visaged 
religionists  from  the  orient,  dancing  girls  from  Cairo,  jugglers  from  far 
Cathay,  fashion  mongers  of  Paris,  sword  swallowers  and  snake  eaters, 
fire  fighters,  life  savers,  aborigines  and  cannibals— all  are  there.  The 
sun  dried  Bedouin  fresh  from  the  parching  heat  of  the  desert  and  the 
Esquimau  still  clinging  to  his  furs,  are  found  side  by  side.  Giant 
Russians  and  pygmy  Japanese  vie  with  each  other  in  good  natured 
rivalry,  and  the  defeated  Boer  and  victorious  Briton  meet  with  pleas- 
ant nod  at  the  International  Cafe. 

All  these  are  shown  in  the  pursuit  of  their  daily  vocations,  together 
with  their  dwellings  and  the  most  interesting  features  of  the  exhibit  to 
which  they  are  attached.  So  also  is  the  red  man  of  the  plains  and  the 
yellow  fellow  who  has  come  to  us  with  the  acquirement  of  the  Philip- 
pines. Their  wives  and  babies,  too,  find  a  place  in  these  pages ;  some- 
thing that  may  be  said  of  every  feature  of  special  interest  at  the  great 
exposition. 

Next  to  a  visit  to  the  Fair  itself,  a  careful  review  of  the  accom- 
panying illustrations  affords  an  educational  study  in  the  progress  of 
the  world  and  its  development,  such  as  is  seldom  afforded  to  the  pros- 
pective visitor.  It  accords  opportunity  of  cultivating  familiarity  with 
the  subject  calculated  to  make  a  trip  to  the  exposition  doubly  delightful. 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS 


CHAPTEE  I. 

EVENT  COMMEMOEATED  BY  THE  GEEAT  FAIR 

States  and  Territories  Aifected — Series  of  Kaleidoscopic  Changes — Where  the  Purchase 
Was  Ratified — Influences  Governing  Napoleon's  Action — Talleyrand's  Official  Ex- 
planation— French  Ambassador 's  Eeview — President  Eoosevelt  's  Estimate — Dream  of 
National  Expansion  Eealized — An  Unprecedented  Condition — Compared  With  Ancient 
Expansion — An  Experiment  in  Government — Nation's  Destruction  Prophesied — Carv- 
ing the  Wilderness — World  Accepts  Our  Process — An  Epitome  of  Our  History 49 

CHAPTEE  II. 

PEEVIOUS  INTEENATIONAL  EXPOSITIONS 

World's  Columbian  Exposition  Reviewed — Municipalities'  Struggle  for  Honor — Woman's 
Building  a  Feature — Buffalo  's  World 's  Fair — Opening  the  Crystal  Palace — France 
Enters  the  Lists — Vienna  and  the  Centennial — The  Paris  Exposition  of  1889 — Eiffel 
Tower  Based  on  American  Idea — Closes  in  Brilliant  Triumph 59 

CHAPTEE  III. 

U.  S.   LIFE-SAVING   SEEVICE 

Its  Thrilling  Exhibit — Proven  Heroes,  Every  One — A  Duplicate  of  Actual  Stations — 
Daily  Eoutine  of  a  Station — Out  with  the  Life  Boat — Methods  of  Battling  with  the 
Elements — The  Lyle  Gun  in  Service — The  "Breeches  Buoy"  in  Action 75 

CHAPTEE  IV. 

WORLD 'S  FAIR  MUSIC 

Sousa  Sway-backed  with  Medals — Innes  and  His  Band — Big  Filipino  Band — Indian 
Musicians  Hastily  Organized — Complex  Instrumentation  Described — Many  Other 
Musical  Organizations   81 

CHAPTER  V. 

QUEEN  VICTORIA'S  JUBILEE  PRESENTS 

Dazzling  Arrays  of  Wealth — Will  Never  Be  Exhibited  Again — From  India,  Ceylon  and 
South  Africa — Clock  Case  of  a  Tiger's  Skull — Gift  of  the  Chinese  Emperor — Maha- 
rajah's Lavish  Gifts  Beggar  Description — Royal  Chair  of  State — Worth  More  Than 
Weight  in  Gold — Gold  Caskets  Loaded  with  Gems — The  Asters  Couldn't  Buy  One 
Casket — Precautions  Against  Loss   or   Theft 85 

CHAPTER  VL 
GIANTS  AT  THE  EXPOSITION 

Patagonians  Make  Long  Journey — Show  Fondness  for  Whisky — Are  Wonderful  Horsemen 
— Were  Never  Conquered — Spaniards  First  Brought  Horses — Have  no  Historic  Tra- 
ditions— Women  Flee  from  Men's  Orgies — Marvelous  Use  of  the  Bolas 101 


Table  of  Contents 

chaptee  vii. 
wondees  of  the  gloeious  pike 

A  Cosmopolitan  Gathering — Like  a  Hasty  Flight  Abroad — Gazing  Down  Into  Cairo — 
The  Sim-a-la-la  Man — Clever  Curbstone  Orators — An  Oriental  Mystery — Adieu  to  the 
Dancing  Girls — What  It  Costs  to  See  the  Pike — Imperial  Eussian  Opera  Troupe 
— Snake  Charmers — The  Cliff  Dwellers — Cingalese  Devil  Dancers — Spain  and  Paris — 
With  the  Eskimo  Tribesmen 105 

CHAPTEE  VIII. 

THE  PIKE'S  SPECTACULAES 

Under  and  Over  the  Sea — From  New  York  to  the  North  Pole — All  Aboard  for  the  Pole — 
A  Eeview  of  Old  St.  Louis — Story  of  Creation  Depicted — Awakening  of  Life — An 
Artificial  Whirlpool — Hereafter,  a  Gruesome  Show — A  Tour  of  Hell — Ancient  Eome 
Eeviewed — Hale 's   Great   Fire   Exhibition    123 

CHAPTEE  IX. 

SPIEIT  OF  THE  TWENTIETH  CENTUEY 

The  Transportation  Display  at  the  Fair — Brothers  to  the  Automobile — The  Automobile 
Everywhere  in  Evidence — A  Decisive  Innovation — B.  &  O.  Pioneer  Display — Trans- 
portation, the  Life  of  Civilization — Willard  A.  Smith,  the  Department  Chief — Labora- 
tory Tests  of  Locomotives — Old  Trains  and  Old  Crews — Complete  Electric  Eailway 
System — Development  of  Naval  Architecture — Atlantic  Passenger  Traffic  Illustrated 
— Strategy  of  American  Warfare — Airship   Contests , 131 

CHAPTEE  X. 

THE  PALACE  OF  MANUFACTIJEES 

Building  Perfectly  Ventilated  and  Lighted — Compared  With  the  Chicago  Leviathan — 
Chief  of  the  Manufactures  Exhibit — Vast  Labors  of  the  Department — High  Standard 
of  Artistic  Installation  Eequired — For  the  Man  With  Corns — Manufactures  or  Fine 
Arts? — Classification  of  the  Manufactures — Hardware,  Heating  and  Ventilating  Appa- 
ratus— Great  Costume  Display — Sculpture  of  the  Manufactures  Exhibit 145 

CHAPTEE  XI. 

PALACE  OF  VAEIED  INDUSTEIES 

Grand  Entrance  and  Interior  Court — Commercial  and  Household  Furnishings — The  Domes- 
tic Exhibits — Industrial  Art  for  Children — Great  Floral  Clock,  Electrically  Illuminated 
— The   Decorative   Sculpture 153 

CHAPTEE  XII. 

MINING  AND  METALLUEGICAL  PALACE 

Why  Obelisks  Before  this  Palace? — Development  of  Brick-Making — Joseph  A.  Holmes, 
Chief  of  the  Department — Typical  of  Louisiana  Purchase  Development — Archway  of 
Pennsylvania  Coal — Exhibit  of  Bethlehem  Steel  Company's  Eolling  Mills — Indiana 
and  West  Virginia  Coal  Exhibits — Gigantic  Cast-iron  Statute  of  Vulcan — Greatest 
Exhibit  Space  of  All  Expositions — Workings  of  an  Anthracite  Mine — Profitable  Hand- 
ling of  Low-Grade  Ores — New  Mexican  Turquoise  Mines — Mining  Gulch  and  the 
Cement  Building — Gold  Mill  in  Operation 157 

CHAPTEE  XIII. 

THE  PALACE  OF  LIBEEAL  AETS 

The  Graphic,  or  Recording  Arts — German  Public  Works — Wonderful  Chinese  Wood  Work 
— What  Latter-Day  Photographers  Do — Development  of  the  Piano — Largest  Organ  in 
the  World — A  Factory  of  Sound,  Electrically  Driven — Five  Organs  Combined  in  One — 
Key  Desk  Worked  by  Electric  Cable — Organist  with  For.r  Hands — Manual  and  Pedal 


Table  of  Contents 

Departments — Civil  and  Military  Engineering — Solidification  of  Hydrogen — Germany's 
Exposition  of  Printing,  Photography  and  Hygiene — China 's  Complete,  Fantastic  Show- 
ing— Col.  John  O.  Ockersou,  Chief  of  the  Department 175 

CHAPTEE  XIV. 

PALACE  OF  MACHINEEY 

A  Tremendous  Plant — Pan-American  Cast  in  the  Shade — Chief  of  Department  Described — 
Wonders  in  the  Eealm  of  Machinery — An  Enormous  Steam  Plant — Disposing  of  the 
Smoke — Interesting  Array  of  Exhibits — Pumps  That  Move  a  Flood — Some  of  the 
Wonders  Shown — Make-up  of  Intramural  System — Fire-Proof  Steam  Building — Steam 
Meters   Displayed 195 

CHAPTEE  XV. 

PALACE  OF  ELECTEICITY 

Professor  W.  E.  Goldsborough — Arrangement  of  Electrical  Exhibits — Display  in  the  Trac- 
tion Field — Wireless  Telegraph  and  Telephone  Tests — Electricity  in  Therapeutics — 
Other  Medical  Apparatus — In  the  Field  of  Electrical  Illumination — Practical  Labora- 
tories Shown — Historical  Electrical  Exhibits — Mysteries  of  Electrical  Palace — Elec- 
tricity in  Warfare — International  Electrical  Congress .205 

CHAPTEE  XVI. 

PALACE  OF  AGEICIJLTUEE 

Largest  of  the  Exposition  Palaces — Chief  of  Department,  Frederick  W.  Taylor — Descrip- 
tion of  Building — The  Leviathan  Contrasted — Scope  of  the  Exhibits — Eivalry  Among 
the  States — Bounty  of  Nature  Shown — Corn  is  King — Panorama  of  Cotton  Industry — 
Commercial  Aspects  Shown — Sugar  Industry  Demonstrated — Tobacco  in  Many  Forma 
— Products  of  the  American  Cow — Scientific  Treatment  of  Milk — Sculpture  in  Butter 
and  Cheese — Food  and  Food  Products — A  Grand  Free  Lunch — World's  Largest  Wine 
Cask — Agricultural  Implements — Home  for  Farmers'  Meetings — A  Map  in  Living 
Vegetation 219 

CHAPTEE  XVII. 

PALACE  OF  HOETICULTUEE 

Exhibitors  Eeceived  Individual  Credit — The  Pomological  Exhibit — Almost  Perfect  Interior 
Arrangements — Eemarkable  Apple  Display — Tasting  Countless  Apples — A  Peculiar 
Occupation — Collective  Fruit  Exhibit — Horticultural  Machinery — ^Floral  Exhibits 231 

CHAPTEE  XVIII. 

FOEESTEY,  FISH  AND  GAME 

The  Display  of  Fish  and  Game — The  Building  Described — Live  Fish  and  Their  Aquarium 
— Primitive  and  Improved  Hunting  Weapons — Fish  and  Game  Eesources  of  the 
United  States — Illustrating  Unlawful  Ways  of  Fishing — Alaska  Packing  Company's 
Clever  Exhibit — Dr.  Tarleton  H.  Bean,  Chief  of  Department — The  Government  Live 
Fish  Display — Fish  History  by  the  U.  S,  Government — Venerable  and  Pathetic  Stur- 
geon— Eainbow,  Speckled  and  Mountain  Trout — Gold  Fish  and  Other  Aristocrats — 
Pig,  Pin  and  Other  Freak  Fish — Department  of  Forestry — Economic  Uses  of  Valuable 
Trees — Indoor  and  Outdoor  Exhibits  of  Forestry — Tree  Planting  for  Farmers — Genu- 
ine New  Jersey  Musquito  Exhibit 245 

CHAPTEE  XIX. 

THE  STUDY  OF  MANKIND 

Object  of  the  Anthropological  Department — Description  of  Guiding  Genius — Strength  in 
Mixed  Blood — Central  African  Pygmies  an  Ancient  People — The  Tehuelche  Giants  of 
Patagonia — The  Ainu  of  Northern  Japan— A  Slice  of  Eeal  Indian  Life — A  Model 
Indian  School  on  Exhibition — Mental  and  Manual  Training  of  Indian  Youth — Success 


Table  of  Contents 

Through  Temporary  railure— Remarkable  Display  From  the  Land  of  the  Aztec — 
Egypt  and  Prehistoric  Man— Moundbuilders  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Valleys— 
The  Conquest  of  Fire — Evolution  of  the  Knife  and  Wheel — Development  of  the  Louisi- 
ana Purchase  Illustrated— Physical  Studies  of  Mankind 265 

CHAPTER  XX. 

DEPARTMENT  OF  SOCIAL  ECONOMY 

Social  Exhibits  .First  Scientifically  Developed— Scope  of  the  Department— Installation  of 
Exhibits— Regulation  of  Industry  and  Labor — Charities  and  Correction — Improved 
Charitable  and  Reformatory  Institutions— Rural  and  Municipal  Hygiene— A  Modern 
Hygiene  Laboratory  in  Operation — Foreign  Participation — The  Model  Street  at  the 
Fair— Paving  and  Parking — An  Object  Lesson  in  Modern  City  Buildings — American 
League  of  Civil  Improvement  279 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

FILIPINOS  AT  THE  FAIR 

Old  Manila  and  Manila  Architecture— The  Red  Man  and  the  Brown  Man  Contrasted— 
Colony  of  One  Thousand  Filipinos— $1,000,000  Required  for  the  Exhibit— Wild  Igor- 
rotes 'on  the  Filipino  Reservation — The  Igorrote  as  Head-Hunter  and  Dog-Eater — 
Physical  Development  and  Fever  Treatment— Divided  Skirt  an  Igorrote  Invention- 
Gets  ' '  Crazy  Mad ' ' — First  Conquered  by  Americans — Death  Followed  by  House  Wreck- 
ing—Debit and  Credit  Account  of  Heads— Said  to  Be  Ethiopian  Immigrants— The 
Primer  Class  of  Igorrotes— The  Dog  to  the  Rescue — Straw  Men  as  Devil  Chasers- 
Disease  Demon  Driven  Away  by  Dog  Offering— The  Dog  Dance  Before  the  Feast- 
Sliced  Bananas  and  Stewed  Dog   295 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

THE  MOROS  AND  VISAYANS 

Annual  Season  of  Human  Sacrifice— Most  Savage  People  on  the  Globe— Human  Life  Counts 
for  Nothing — Sure  Death  to  the  Camera  Fiend— Freed  Moro  Slave  Made  a  Bride- 
Ocean  Voyage  as  a  Love  Promoter— Praying  Over  an  Engaged  Couple— "  Swell " 
Dressers  of  the  Philippines — An  Artist  in  Pants — New  Products  of  Assimilation — 
Artistic,  Linguistic  and  Musical  Visayans — Fighting  and  Musical  Scouts — Regular 
Members  of  the  U.  S.  Army — Iron  Constitutions  and  Disease-Proof — Their  First  Snow 
and  Snowball  Fight — Culture  Shown  by  Philippine  Ethnological  Museum— Match 
Locks,  Springfield  Rifles  and  "Bluff"  Guns— Native  Swords,  Hatchets  and  Execution 
Knives 31^ 

CHAPTER  XXIIL 

INDIANS  AT  THE  FAIR 

Genesis  of  the  House  in  the  West— Living  Underground  Like  Prairie  Dogs— The  Tepee  a 
Modern  Sioux  Conceit — Dirt  Lodges  of  the  Western  Plain  Indians — Dirt  Lodges 
Abandoned  for  Tepees— Dr.  Dorsey  and  the  Exposition  Dirt  Lodge— Geronimo  Refuses 
to  Exhibit  Himself— Indian  Congress  of  Fifty-One  Tribes— The  Sioux  Eager  Church 
Goers— A  Native  Episcopalian  Minister— " Men  Work,  Ugh!"  Says  Sioux  Chief- 
Disgusted  with  the  Naked  Igorrotes— Cliff  Dwellings  and  Pueblos— Pueblo  Women 
Unique  Dressers — First  Snowballing  by  Pueblos — Giants  of  the  Colorado  River  Valley 
Live  in  Grass  Houses  and  Dress  Hair  With  Mud— Homely  Squaw  Inventor — Red 
Women  Still  the  Burden  Bearers    337 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

ESKIMOS  AT  THE  FAIR 

Perfect  Illusion  of  Arctic  Life— Eskimos  Alone  Enjoy  the  Snow— The  Columbian  Expo- 
sition Eskimo  Baby— North  and  South  Fall  Out  Over  Red  Peppers — Ancient  Alaskan 
History  in  Totem  Poles— Women  Managers  of  Alaskan  Exhibits— How  Mrs.  Ongman 
Collected  Her  Exhibit— Saved  by  Being  Buried  in  the  Snow— All  Day  Getting  Break- 


Table  of  Contents 

fast — Superstitions  of  Alaskan  Eskimos — No  Married  Woman  Can  Sell  a  Doll — Must 
Have  Exact  Change  or  Article  Eequired — Eskimo  Women  Jealous  of  White  Women — 
Die  Young,  Mostly  of  Consumption   351 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

JAPAN  AT  THE  EXPOSITION 

Fair  Japan  on  the  Pike — Gigantic  and  Exquisite  Main  Gateway — Native  Stores,  Tea  Houses 
and  Geisha  Girls — Japanese  Newspaper  Published  on  the  Grounds — First  Foreign 
Country  to  Complete  Its  Exhibits— Seven  Acres  of  Space  Occupied — Mikado,  Nobles 
and  Government  Participate — Japanese  Fine  Arts  Section — A  Year's  Time  Spent  on 
Six-Inch  Vase — The  Famous  Cloisonne  Ware — The  Wireless  and  Wired  Varieties — 
Lion  and  Lioness  Done  in  Malleable  Iron — Delicate  Art  of  Hammering — Tigers 
Attacking  an  Elephant — The  Unique  Monkey  Vase — Colossal  Bronze  Censer — Gate  to 
the   Temple   of  Japan   Reproduced =  .i. 367 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

MYSTERIOUS  LITTLE  JAPANESE  PRIMITIVES 

How  Professor  Starr  Brought  the  Ainu  to  the  Fair — The  Women  Love  Their  Children 
and  Fear  an  Old  Woman's  Ghost — Nature  Worshipers  and  Soulless  Women — Brave 
Hunters  but  No  Warriors — Women  Fond  of  Tattooed  Mustaches — They  Never  Use 
Mirrors — Do  Not  Blacken  Their  Teeth — Stroking  Beard  or  Hair  a  Mark  of  Honor — 
Personal  Worth  Measured  by  Bear  Skulls — Hand  Rubbing,  Instead  of  Hand  Shaking 
— Ainu  Women  Said  to  Suckle  Bear  Cubs — Queer  Mixture  for  Arrow  Poison — Painful 
Tottooing  Processes — Not  Only  Bury,  but  Hide  Their  Dead — A  Grasping  Ainu  Baby 
— St.  Louis  Ainu  Polite  and  Clean 385 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

CHINA  AT  THE  WORLD'S  FAIR 

Modeled  After  Imperial  Summer  Palace — In  the  Altar  Room — Notables  Aid  the  Prince 
— Future  Emperor's  Speech — Prince's  Face  Beamed  with  Happiness — Empress  Dow- 
ager Donates  Pictures  to  the  Government — Chinese  Village  on  the  Pike 395 

CHAPTER  XXVIIL 

ART  AS  EXPRESSED  AT  THE  FAIR 

Comprehensive  Classification  of  Art — Industrial  Art  Recognized  as  Fine  Art — ^A  Step 
Forward  at  the  Chicago  Exposition — Grand  Open-Air  Sculpture  at  the  St.  Louis 
Exposition — Wonderful  Characteristic  Figures — Art  Still  Survives  Modern  Commercial- 
ism— Belgium's  Complete  Exhibit  of  Later-Day  Masters — The  Land  of  Painters — 
Emile  A.  Vautier  and  Belgian  Art — Sharp  Contrasts  in  Subjects  and  Treatment — 
The  Painters  Know  Country  and  People — Character  as  Expressed  in  Hands — Magnifi- 
cent French  Landscapes  and  Heroic  Figures — Death  and  the  Woodchopper — House 
of  the  Madonna — Bouguereau  and  Other  Modern  French  Masters 399 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

THE  ART  PALACE  AND  ITS  GEMS 

Description  of  the  Palace  of  Fine  Arts — Professor  Halsey  C.  Ives  in  Charge — Assistants 
in  the  Art  Department — Great  Britain's  Art  Exhibit — Masterpieces  by  Millais,  Leigh- 
ton,  Burne-Jones  and  Others — Works  by  Germany's  Great  Artists — Huge,  Speaking 
Portraits  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress — Janssen's  Overpowering  Revolutionary  Scene 
— In  the  Realm  of  German  Statuary — Fine  Display  of  Dutch  Water  Colors — Italy's 
Rare  Paintings — Mexico's  Portraits  of  Americans — Usual  Dainty  Japanese  Exhibit — 
Filipino  Artists'  Work  Shown — Exhibit  Made  by  the  United  States 417 


Table  of  Contents 

chaptee  xxx. 
roeeign  buildings  and  exhibits 

Gobelin  Tapestries  in  the  French  Pavilion — Wisp  of  Napoleon 's  Hair — Germany 's  Building, 
a  Second  Charlottenburg  Castle — The  Emperor's  Presents  Exhibited — Model  German 
Country  Home — Orangery  of  Kensington  Palace  Keproduced — Description  of  the 
British  Building — Ireland  on  the  Pike — Old  Eoman  Architecture  of  Italian  Building — 
Morocco  First  Eepresented  at  an  Exposition — Sweden's  Building  Described — Domestic 
Exhibits  in  Holland's  Pavilion — Queen  Wilhelmina 's  Skates  and  Dolls — Windmills  in 
Famous  Delft  Ware — Belgium's  Old  Flemish  Building — New  Zealand  at  the  Fair — 
Austria's  Exposition  Building — Magnificent  Uniform  of  Hungarian  Commissioner.  ..  .433 

CHAPTEE  XXXI. 

FOEEIGN  COUNTEIES  AT  THE  FAIE 

Unique  Brazilian  Feather  Exhibit — Eeproduction  of  Famous  Agra  Tomb — Canadian  Gov- 
ernment Pavilion — Mexico's  Building,  in  Spanish  Eenaissance  Style — An  Elaborate 
Social  Event — ^A  Well-Appointed  Cuban  Dwelling  Eeproduced — Nicaragua's  Tiny  Gem 
of  a  Building — Guatemala's  Coffee,  Fruit  and  Woods — Cingalese  Cabinets  of  Precious 
Woods — Illumination,  Old  and  New — Argentine  Eepublic's  Official  Building — Eare  Old 
Wines  of  Portugal — Siam's  Temple  at  the  Fair — Burma  and  Her  Sly  Elephant,  Mary 
— Other  Visitors  from  Afar — Eussia  's  Embarrassing  Plight 443 

CHAPTEE  XXXII. 

THE  U.  S.  GOVEENMENT  EXHIBITS 

Details  of  the  Government  Building — Moving  Pictures  and  Stereopticons — Government 
Eadium  Display — Exhibit  of  Postoffice  Department — Dead-Letter  Office  Exhibit — Com- 
plete Postoffiee  in  Operation — Smithsonian  Institution  Display — Bellowing  of  a  Blue 
Whale — Making  Money  While  You  Wait — An  Intelligent  Machine — After  Forty  Years 
His  Wonder  Grows — History  of  the  United  States  Mint — War  Department  Display — 
Splendid  Naval  Exhibit — Harbor  Shown  Fully  Mined — Weather  Forecasting  Apparatus 
— Bureau  of  Animal  Industry — U.  S.  Agriculture  Experiment  Station — ^Departments 
of  State  and  Justice — With  the  Fish  Commission 459 

CHAPTEE  XXXIII. 

SCULPTUEE  OF  THE  EXPOSITION 

Carl  Bitter  on  the  Exposition  Sculpture — Nichaus'  Heroic  Statue  of  Saint  Louis — Joliet 
and  De  Soto — The  Eed  Man  Delineated — Pathetic  Disappearance  of  the  Eed  Man — 
Solon  Borglum's  Cowboys — First  European  to  Obtain  an  American  Foothold — Chief 
Figures  in  the  Louisiana  Purchase — The  Louisiana  Purchase  Monument,  by  Carl 
Bitter — Gigantic  Decorations  of  the  Cascades — H.  A.  MacNeil  and  His  Work  as  a 
Sculptor — Colossal  Statues  of  Fourteen  States — The  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans  in 
Statuary — Festival  Hall  and  Philip  Martiny — Permanent  Statuary  of  the  Fine  Arts 
Building 471 

CHAPTEE  XXXIV. 

WOMEN  MANAGEES  AND  LACES 

Architecture  and  Interior  Arrangement  of  Building — Duties  and  Members  of  the  Board  of 
Lady  Managers — Distribution  of  Woman's  Work  at  the  Fair — Lace-Making  Among 
the  Ancient  Arts — History  and  Exhibit  of  Valenciennes  Lace — The  Elaborate  French 
Lace,  Point  d'Alencon .i. 493 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


Louisiana  Purchase  Monument  —     2 

Manufactures  Building — Main  Entrance    5 

Filipino  Constabulary  in  Camp    6 

Fine  Arts  Building — Main  Entrance  7 

Jefferson  Guard  on  Duty  8 

Whirling  Dervish  in  Repose   9 

Japanese  Golden  Eagle 10 

Choctaw  Mother  and  Child   11 

Old  Man  Noisy  Thunder — Indian  Chief  12 

Louisiana  Monument  Sculpture    13 

A  Happy  Family  of  Indians  14 

The  Sim-A-La-La  Man    . ! 15 

Ainu  Girl    16 

Tall  Cloud— Indian  Chief  33 

Indian  Tent    34 

Sioux  Indians    35 

Indian  Woman  at  Work  36 

United  States  Soldiers    37 

Hindu  of  Mysterious  Asia   38 

Cocopa  Indians   39 

Temple  of  The  T.  P.  A 40 

Igorrote  Maid 41 

Moro  Chief  in  Full  Dress 42 

Indian  Medicine  Man 43 

Igorrote  Warrior 44 

Staff  Sculpture  at  the  Fair 45 

City  Without  Nails   46 

Igorrote   Chief    47 

Leaping  Panther — Indian  Chief   48 

President  Roosevelt  at  the  Fair 65 

The  Work  of  Transformation  66 

Laying  Corner  Stone  of  Manufactures  Building 67 

President  Francis  and  Staff   68 

Ready  to  Cap  a  Column  69 

Notables  at  Dedication  Service    70 

Distinguished  Visitors  at  the  Fair   71 

Gen.  Miles  at  the  Fair 72 

Ships  of  the  Desert  at  Rest  89 

Eagle  Dance  of  Pueblo  Indians 90 

Oriental  Basket  Trick 91 


List  of  Illustrations. 

Types  of  Cliff  Dwellers 92 

Pueblo  Snake  Dance    o 93 

The  British  India  Restaurant   94 

Indian  Parade  on  The  Pike  •  •  •   95 

Streets  of  Cairo    96 

The  Tyrolean  Alps  113 

Flying  Wonder  from  Central  America   114 

Russian  Imperial  Troupe    115 

Bird 's  Eye  View  of  the  Fair 116 

Educated   Monkey    118 

Sons  of  the  Desert 119 

Indians  on  the  War  Path 120 

Iowa  State  Building   137 

Missouri  State  Building  138 

Maryland  State  Building  139 

The  Palace  of  Transportation  140 

Sunken  Gardens    142 

Palace  of  Manufactures 143 

Manufactures  Building  Seen  from  the  Lagoon 144 

Grand  View  from  the  Sunken  Gardens 161 

Mammoth  Aviary  at  the  Fair  162 

Administration   Building    163 

Sunken  Gardens   164 

The  German  Restaurant  166 

Canada's  Building   167 

School  Children  at  the  Belgium  Building 168 

Grand  Colonnade  Effect  185 

Corner  in  the  Art  Palace  186 

Alaskan  Totem  Poles , 187 

Massachusetts   Building    188 

Oklahoma  Building 189 

Arkansas  Building 190 

Minnesota  Building   191 

Ladies'  Costumes  in  the  Palace  of  Manufacture 192 

Palace  of  Electricity   209 

Uncle  Sam's  Boys  Preparing  a  Stew 210 

Zouaves  at  the  Dedicatory  Exercises .211 

Palace  of  Electricity 212 

World's  Fair  Gift  to  a  Prince 214 

German  Garden  at  the  Fair 215 

United  States  Artillery 216 

Palace  of  Agriculture   233 

Eastern  Portion  of  the  Grounds  234 

Great  Floral  Clock ^ 235 

Miss  Gould's  Automobile  at  the  Fair 236 

United  States  Infantrymen    237 

Fair  Headquarters  of  the  French  Republic  ". .  238 

Belgium's  Building 239 

Jerusalem 240 


List  of  Illustrations. 

Aboriginal  Habitations    257 

Comanche   Indian   Shack    258 

Ainu  Holy  Men  259 

Comanche  Indian  Tepee   260 

Savage  Musicians  and  Dancers  261 

Water  Dwellers  of  the  Philippines 262 

Igorrote  Family    263 

Igorrotes  Housebuilding   264 

Igorrotes  Roofing  a  House  281 

Filipinos  of  Another  Type  282 

Philippine  Carpenters    283 

Homebuilding  Over  the  Water  284 

Igorrotes   Dancing    285 

House  of  a  Moro  Chief 286 

Igorrote  War  Dance    287 

Igorrotes  Bleeding  the  Dog  288 

A  Native  of  the  Philippines 305 

A  Filipino  Belle    306 

Moro  Chief  Posing  307 

Moro  Castle  and  Bridge  to  It  308 

Dogs  to  Feed  the  Igorrotes   310 

Busy  Filipino  Carpenters   311 

Negrotes  Calling  Dinner    312 

Red  Fox — Indian  Chief 329 

Papoose  with  Elk's  Tooth  Mantle  330 

A  Simple  Repast    331 

Indian   Child 332 

Indian  Chief  Two  Strikes 333 

Civilized  or  Savage,  Which  ?   334 

Cooking  for  Uncle  Sam   335 

Indian  Chief  Big  Bear 336 

Igorrotes  Killing  a  Dog 353 

The  Igorrote  Jail   354 

Igorrotes  Singeing  the  Dog  355 

An  Igorrote  House  Warming 356 

Igorrotes  Cooking  a  Dog   357 

First  Stage  of  Stewed  Dog 358 

Igorrotes  Building  Grass  Huts  359 

An  Aboriginal  Feast  360 

Old  Stone  Water  Jar  and  Filter 377 

Palace  of  Transportation   378 

Negrote  Family  on  Review  , 379 

The  Palace  of  Machinery  380 

Igorrotes  Posing  for  the  Dance 381 

Sunny  Brook  Distillery    382 

Palace  of  Varied  Industries 383 

When  the  Day  is  Done  384 

Main  Entrance  of  the  Varied  Industries  Building 401 

Tepees  of  Apache  Indians 402 


List  of  Illustrations. 

Cascade  Fountains  in  Action   403 

Palace  of  Varied  Industries 404 

Corner  in  Forestry  Building  405 

General  Grant 's  Log  Cabin  406 

Turkish  Officials    407 

Pioneer  Automobile 408 

Foreign   Buildings    425 

French  Building  and  Grounds 426 

German  Building    427 

Siam's  Building    428 

Ceylon  Building    429 

Brazil  Building   430 

Argentine  Republic 's  Building   431 

Swedish  Building   432 

Exhibitor  from  Far  Cathay 449 

Ainu  Mother  and  Child 450 

Ainu  Chief  and  Prayer  Pole   451 

Tree-Dwellers  at  the  Fair   452 

Kafir  Woman  and  Child  453 

Filipinos  Eating  Snow 454 

Filipino  Fashion  Plates  455 

Japanese  Carpenters  at  Work 456 

Cascade    Stairway    473 

The  Buffalo  Dance  Statue   474 

Main  Drive  of  the  Pair 475 

View  of  the  Grand  Basin 476 

Typical  Scene  at  Fair 477 

Plaza  of  St.  Louis   478 

View  from  Federal  Stairway 479 

The  Cowboy  at  Eest  Statue ., 480 


TALL  CLOUD— This  grizzled  old  Sioux  was  one  of  the  entertainers  at  the  Louisiana 
Purchase  Exposition  and  was  very  proud  of  that  honor.  Tall  Cloud  performed  daily  on 
the  Pike,  giving  exhibitions  of  daring  horsemanship  and  tricks  of  the  plains,  together 
with  native  dances. 


ONLY  A  MEMORY — Perched  on  the  highlands  at  the  remote  west  end,  this  lodge 
was  a  pitiful  habitation,  the  counterpart  of  hundreds  that  once  dotted  this  site.  It  stood 
forth  in  pathetic  contrast  to  its  surroundings.  In  its  lonely  presence,  well  might  the 
visitor  say  "Alas  poor  Lo!  " 


SIOUX  INDIANS^ — This  swarthy-skinned  trio  have  the  large  firm  mouths  of  their 
race,  and  the  usual  look  of  shrewd  determination,  which  is  characteristic  of  the  Sioux. 
They  represent  a  tribe  which  has  given  Uncle  Sam,  especially  the  northwestern  parts 
of  his  domain,  much  trouble,  but  he  treated  them  well  at  the  fair,  notwithstanding. 


INDIAN  WOMAN  AT  WORK— Even  at  the  fair  where  he  was  on  exhibition  to  the 
world  the  Indian  brave  looked  upon  work  as  something  degrading.  It  followed  that  the 
squaws  had  to  perform  the  labor  necessary  to  pitch  tepees  and  maintain  some  pretense 
of  a  home. 


OVER  THE  COFFEE  CUP — There  seems  to  be  an  amusing  conference  going  on 
over  a  solitary  coffee  cup  and  between  these  three  U.  S.  cavalrymen  in  camp  at  the 
exposition.  You  can  imagine  by  the  way  the  group  of  horses  prick  up  their  ears  that 
it  is  accompanied  by  some  hearty  laughter. 


A  HINDU  OF  MYSTERIOUS  ASIA— This  calm  looking  gentleman  in  the  pictur- 
esque headdress,  the  flowered  robe  and  broad,  filmy  sash,  seems  to  have  just  stepped 
from  Mysterious  Asia  indeed.  He  was  one  of  the  multitude  of  attractions  found  in  the 
great  concession  known  by  that  name  at  the  exposition. 


POOR  LO  AT  HOME— Cocopa  Indians  in  camp  on  the  authropolugical_  reservation  at 
the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition.  The  members  of  this  family  have  just  completed 
dressing  their  long  black  hair  with  Missouri  mud.  This  is  their  favorite  method  ot 
-completing  their  toilet. 


TEMPLE  OF  THE  T.  P.  A.— Knights  of  the  grip,  members  of  the  Travelers  Protec- 
tive Association,  put  up  this  handsome,  homelike  building  for  their  comfort.  It  was 
quite  unlike  anything  else  on  the  grounds.  The  main  building  was  176  feet  long,  with 
80-foot  wings  at  either  hand. 


ALL  IS  VANITY—This  Igorrote  maid,  although  unlettered  and  unfamiliar  with  the 
vanities  o±  her  white  sister,  is  not  dead  to  the  necessity  of  personal  adornment.  Accord- 
ingly, she  has  thrust  through  her  pierced  ears  strips  of  wood,  in  lieu  of  earrings 


MOKO  CHIEF  IN  FULL  DRESS — This  leadei'  among  our  newly  made  subjects  was 
photographed  standing  near  the  barraelts  built  by  the  government  for  the  Philippine 
constabulary  at  St.  Louis.  He  is  shown  with  his  deadly  crease  sheathed,  standing  at 
"attention." 


INDIAN  MEDICINE  MAN— Among  the  rank  and  file  of  the  Bed  Men  the  Medicine 
Man  is  often  a  bigger  man  than  a  chief.  Through  his  charms  and  incantations,  which 
he  showed  exposition  visitors  with  many  weird  mannerisms,  he  is  believed  to  perform 
most  wonderful  cures  of  body  and  mind.     He  is  often  a  mystery  even  to  the  white  man. 


READY  FOR  THE  FRAY — This  proud  Igorrote  warrior  has  consented  to  pose,  armed 
cap-a-pie;  that  is,  as  nearly  from  head  to  foot  as  he  ever  will  be.  He  is  known  at  home 
as  Tuckyam,  and,  with  his  imposing  spear  and  strongly-bound  wooden  shield,  is  a  character 
of  considerable  consequence. 


STAFF  SCULPTURE  AT  THE  FAIR— These  four  beautiful  figures  are  excellent  ex- 
amples of  the  staff  artists'  work.  They  were  photographed  in  lonely  solitude  against  the 
exposition  fence,  awaiting  removal  to  the  Fisheries  exhibit,  where  they  formed  an  im- 
portant part  of  the  decorative  scheme. 


CITY  WITHOUT  NAILS — With  carloads  of  imported  material  the  Filipiuos  at  the 
fair  built  for  themselves  a  veritable  city.  Throughout  not  a  nail  was  employed,  in  most 
instances  rattan,  bejuca  brush  rope  and  nipa  grass  being  used  to  lash  the  bamboo  parts 
together. 


•  ■■    **VA\ 


AN  IGOREOTE  CHIEF  AT  THE  EXPOSITION— This  is  the  striking  head  and 
bust  of  a  young  Igorrote  chief,  the  warlike  representative  of  a  Filipino  tribe  who  have 
been  pronounced  of  such  violent  temper  that  it  is  impossible  to  peacefully  assimilate 
them.     They  are  the  noted  dog-eaters  of  the  fair  and  are  said  to  be  head-hunters. 


LEAPING  PANTHER — Even  with  his  bristling  headdress  Leaping  Panther  has  a 
mild  aspect  that  belies  his  ferocious  name.  He  was  at  the  Indian  Congress  of  the  world [s 
fair  as  a  representative  Commanche.  At  the  close  of  the  exposition  he  returned  to  his 
western  home,  duly  impressed  with  the  white  man's  greatness. 


CHAPTER  I. 
EVENT  COMMEMORATED  BY  THE  GREAT  FAIR 

states  and  Territories  Affected — Series  of  Kaleidoscopic  Changes — Where  the  Purchase 
Was  Ratified — Influences  Governing  Napoleon's  Action — Talleyrand's  Oflacial  Ex- 
planation— French  Ambassador's  Review — President  Roosevelt's  Estimate — Dream  of 
National  Expansion  Realized — An  Unprecedented  Condition — Compared  With  Ancient 
Expansion — An  Experiment  in  Government — Nation's  Destruction  Prophesied — Carv- 
ing the  Wilderness — World  Accepts  Our  Process — An  Epitome  of  Our  History. 

NO  EVENT  in  the  history  of  our  country,  barring  the  Declaration 
of  Independence,  the  adoption  of  the  constitution  and  the  Civil 
War,  has  been  so  fraught  with  importance  and  significance  as  that  which 
this  international  exposition  of  1904  commemorates.  In  a  word  it  was 
the  annexation  of  the  West  and  the  circumstance  that  placed  the  Pacific 
Coast  within  our  grasp. 

The  conclusion  of  the  treaty  of  April  30,  1803,  by  Napoleon  B'ona- 
parte,  then  First  Consul  of  the  French  Kepublic,  and  Thomas  Jetferson, 
author  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  third  President  of  the 
United  States,  put  an  end  forever  to  dangerous  friction  which  had  been 
a  source  of  unceasing  anxiety  to  the  administrations  of  Presidents  Wash- 
ington and  John  Adams.  It  also  eliminated  forever  an  impending  re- 
sumption of  the  strife,  continued  for  more  than  a  century,  between  France 
and  Great  Britain  for  ascendancy  in  North  America. 

STATES  AND  TEEEITORIES  AFFECTED. 

Directly  the  stroke  of  the  pen  that  closed  the  transaction,  gave  to 
us  all  that  territory  now  included  in  Louisiana,  Arkansas,  Indian  Ter- 
ritory, Oklahoma,  Missouri,  Kansas,  Nebraska,  Iowa,  North  and  South 
Dakota  and  Montana  as  well  as  part  of  Minnesota,  Wyoming  and  Colo- 
rado. Indirectly,  Washington,  Oregon,  Idaho,  California,  Nevada,  Utah, 
Arizona,  New  Mexico  and  Texas  are  the  fruits  of  the  statesmanship  that 
characterized  the  transaction.  Our  national  expansion  and  evolution  as 
a  world  power  date  from  that  hour. 

Prior  to  that  time  three  great  European  powers  were  competitors  in 

49 


50  '  The  Event  Commemorated 

colonizing  and  parceling  out  American  territory— the  Spanish,  French 
and  English.  The  former  touched  first  the  West  Indies,  then  the  Flor- 
idas,  and  the  daring  De  Soto  discovered  Louisiana  and  the  rolling  Mis- 
sissippi, that  was  his  grave.  All  three  powers— dangerous  elements  for 
such  close  neighbors— ceased  to  constitute  an  ever  present  source  of 
jeopardy  with  the  signing  of  the  Louisiana  purchase  papers. 

seeies  op  kaleidoscopic  changes. 

Historically,  Louisiana  takes  rank  in  this  recital.  It  is  her  name  that 
graced  the  entire  region  purchased  from  France,  her  forests  were  pene- 
trated by  De  Soto  on  his  memorable  march  from  the  Floridas  in  search 
of  the  wealth  of  treasure  that  was  the  quest  of  Spaniards  for  two  score 
years  after  they  had  conquered  Peru ;  it  was  into  the  waters  of  the  gulf 
that  wash  her  shores  that  La  Salle  sailed  with  his  fleet  from  France ;  it 
was  in  New  Orleans  that  occurred  the  first  uprising  against  an  Old 
World  power  and  it  was  in  her  Cabildo  that  the  formal  treaty  of  transfer 
by  Napoleon  was  ratified. 

This  Cabildo,  over  which  within  a  fortnight  floated  three  flags— first, 
the  standard  of  Spain,  then  the  tri-color  of  France,  and  last,  to  remain 
forever,  the  stars  and  stripes— has  been  reproduced,  at  the  fair,  as  it  was 
in  1803,  and  in  front  of  the  building  is  a  reproduction  of  Jackson  Square, 
which  the  structure  still  faces  in  New  Orleans. 

WHERE   the   purchase   WAS   RATIFIED. 

It  was  in  the  supreme  court  room  of  the  Cabildo— now  used  as  a  city 
court— that  the  famous  transfer  was  ratified  and  today,  in  the  replica  of 
this  room,  is  a  facsimile  of  the  treaty  itself,  bearing  the  signatures  of 
Marbois,  Livingston  and  Monroe,  while  on  the  walls  are  portraits  of  the 
men  who  placed  their  names  to  the  instrument  and,  bearing  them  com- 
pany, pictures  of  Jefferson,  Napoleon,  Salcedo,  Lausat,  Wilkinson  and 
Claiborne.  So  faithfully  is  everything  reproduced  that  in  the  courtyard 
one  is  confronted  with  an  original  stone  filter  and  the  drinking  ''mon- 
keys," which  were  used  in  those  days,  and  in  the  prison  cells  are  the 
old  Spanish  instruments  of  torture— the  garotte,  with  which  criminals 
were  choked  to  death,  and  the  stocks  in  which  those  guilty  of  misde- 
meanors were  held  captive. 

The  furniture  in  this  historic  building  is  the  same  as  it  was  in  1803, 
and  visitors  can  see  the  desk  at  which  the  instrument  of  transfer  was 


The  Event  Commemokated  51 

signed  and  the  chairs  occupied  by  the  persons  whose  names  are  so  inti- 
mately associated  with  this  great  peace  conquest  of  land  from  which 
fourteen  states  and  territories  have  been  carved. 

INFLUENCES   GOVERNING   NAPOLEON 's   ACTION. 

After  gaining  Louisiana  from  Spain  through  the  secret  treaty  of  San 
Ildefonso,  October  1,  1800,  Napoleon  was  suddenly  confronted  with  con- 
ditions that  modified  his  American  policy.  The  horrors  experienced  by 
his  army  in  San  Domingo,  culminating  in  the  death  of  30,000  soldiers 
from  yellow  fever,  coupled  with  pending  war  at  home  and  a  pressing 
need  for  funds  for  muskets  to  carry  on  his  mighty  game  of  conquest, 
influenced  him  to  no  small  extent.  He  could  give  British  aggression  no 
greater  setback  than  to  turn  over  the  "howling  wilderness"  to  the  new 
republic,  whereas  otherwise  it  would  fall  into  England's  grasp.  And 
that  was  what  he  did.  The  step  once  taken,  Napoleon  was  held  to  the 
United  States  through  the  tie  of  mutual  hatred  and  distrust  of  England. 

TALLEYEAND's    official    EXPLANATION. 

Prince  De  Talleyrand,  minister  of  foreign  affairs  of  France  at  that 
time,  whose  imperial  dream  of  colonial  expansion  was  shattered  by  the 
transfer,  which  he  bitterly  opposed,  explained  the  transaction  in  an  of- 
ficial document  in  these  words : 

"The  wish  to  spare  the  North  American  continent  the  war  with 
which  it  was  threatened,  to  dispose  of  different  points  of  dispute  between 
France  and  the  United  States  of  America,  and  to  remove  all  the  new 
causes  of  misunderstanding  which  competition  and  neighborhood  might 
have  produced  between  them;  the  position  of  the  French  colonies;  their 
want  of  men,  cultivation,  and  assistance,  in  fine,  the  empire  of  circum- 
stances, foresight  of  the  future,  and  the  intention  to  compensate  by  an 
advantageous  arrangement  for  the  inevitable  loss  of  a  country  which  was 
going  to  be  put  at  the  mercy  of  another  nation— all  these  motives  have 
determined  the  Government  to  pass  to  the  United  States  the  rights  it  had 
acquired  from  Spain  over  the  sovereignty  and  property  of  Louisiana." 

FRENCH   ambassador's   REVIEW. 

In  reviewing  the  transaction  one  hundred  years  later,  at  th^  dedica- 
tion of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition,  April  30,  1903,  Ihe  French 
Ambassador,  M.  Jean  J.  Jusserand,  declared: 


52  The  Event  Commemoeated 

''The  treaty  signed  one  hundred  years  and  a  day  ago  had  little  pre- 
cedent in  history;  it  dealt  with  territories  larger  than  the  empire  of 
Alexander ;  it  followed  no  war ;  it  was  preceded  by  no  shedding  of  human 
blood;  the  new  possessors  got  a  hundred  times  more  than  they  ever 
thought  of  demanding,  and  the  negotiations  were  so  simple,  the  good 
faith  and  mutual  friendship  so  obvious,  that  all  was  concluded  in  a  fort- 
night. The  simplest  protocol  on  postal  or  sanitary  questions  takes  nowa- 
days more  time.  Each  party  found  its  interest  in  the  transaction,  but 
something  more  than  interest  led  the  affair  to  a  speedy  conclusion,  and 
that  was  the  deep-rooted  sympathy  of  the  French  and  American  nations. 

''The  French  were  simply  continuing  what  they  had  begun;  they 
had  wished  America  to  be  free,  and  they  were  glad  to  think  that  she  would 
be  great.  Money  was  paid,  it  is  true ;  had  this  been  the  main  considera- 
tion, Louisiana  would  have  been  preserved,  for  the  money  was  not  by 
far  the  equivalent  of  the  buildings  and  lands  belonging  to  the  State.  Part 
of  the  money  was  employed  in  satisfying  American  claims.  'Those,' 
says  the  French  negotiator,  Marbois,  'who  knew  the  importance  of  a 
good  understanding  between  these  two  countries,  attached  more  im- 
portance to  the  $4,000,000  set  apart  for  the  American  claims  than  to  the 
$12,000,000  offered  to  France.'  " 

PRESIDENT  Roosevelt's  estimate. 

Perhaps  no  more  valuable  estimate  of  the  event  commemorated  by 
this  magnificent  exposition  can  be  cited  than  that  given  by  the  President 
of  the  United  States,  Theodore  Roosevelt,  a  close  student  of  the  subject 
and  author  of  four  volumes  on  "The  AVinning  of  the  West."  Address- 
ing himself  to  official  representatives  of  all  nations  and  to  the  multitude 
assembled  to  participate  in  the  dedicatory  exercises,  he  said: 

"At  the  outset  of  my  address  let  me  recall  to  the  minds  of  my  hearers 
that  the  soil  upon  which  we  stand,  before  it  was  ours,  was  successively 
the  possession  of  two  mighty  empires— Spain  and  France— whose  sons 
made  a  deathless  record  of  heroism  in  the  early  annals  of  the  New  World. 

"No  history  of  the  western  country  can  be  written  without  paying 
heed  to  the  wonderful  part  played  therein  in  the  early  days  by  the  sol- 
diers, missionaries,  explorers  and  traders,  who  did  their  work  for  the 
honor  of  the  proud  banners  of  France  and  Castile. 

"AVliile  the  settlers  of  English-speaking  stock,  and  those  of  Dutch, 
German  and  Scandinavian  origin  who  were  associated  with  them,  were 


The  Event  Commemorated  53 

still  clinging  close  to  the  Eastern  f^eaboard,  the  pioneers  of  Spain  and 
of  France  had  penetrated  deep  into  the  hitherto  unknown  wilderness  of 
the  West  and  had  wandered  far  and  wide  within  the  boundaries  of  what 
is  now  our  mighty  country.  The  very  cities  themselves— St.  Louis,  New 
Orleans,  Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico— bear  witness  by  their  titles  to  the  nation- 
alities of  their  founders.  It  was  not  until  the  Revolution  had  begun  that 
the  English-speaking  settlers  pushed  west  across  the  Alleghanies  and 
not  until  a  century  ago  that  they  entered  in  to  possess  the  land  upon  which 
we  now  stand. 

' '  We  have  met  here  today  to  commemorate  the  hundredth  anniversary 
of  the  event  which  more  than  any  other,  after  the  foundation  of  the  Gov- 
ernment, and  always  excepting  its  preservation,  determined  the  character 
of  our  national  life— determined  that  we  should  be  a  great  expanding 
nation  instead  of  relatively  a  small  and  stationary  one. 

deeam  of  "jstational  expansion  realized. 

* '  Of  course,  it  was  not  with  the  Louisiana  Purchase  that  our  career  of 
expansion  began.  In  the  middle  of  the  Eevolutionary  War  the  Illinois 
region,  including  the  present  States  of  Illinois  and  Indiana,  was  added 
to  our  domain  by  force  of  arms,  as  a  sequel  to  the  adventurous  expedition 
of  George  Eogers  Clark  and  his  frontier  riflemen. 

''Later  the  treaties  of  Jay  and  Pinckney  materially  extended  our 
real  boundaries  to  the  west.  But  none  of  these  events  was  of  so  striking  a 
character  as  to  fix  the  popular  imagination.  The  old  thirteen  colonies  had 
always  claimed  that  their  rights  stretched  westward  to  the  Mississippi, 
and,  vague  and  unreal  though  these  claims  were  until  made  good  by  con- 
quest, settlement  and  diplomacy,  they  still  served  to  give  the  impression 
that  the  earliest  westward  movements  of  our  people  were  little  more  than 
the  filling  in  of  already  existing  national  boundaries. 

"But  there  could  be  no  illusion  about  the  acquisition  of  the  vast  ter- 
ritory beyond  the  Mississippi,  stretching  westward  to  the  Pacific,  which 
in  that  day  was  known  as  Louisiana.  This  immense  region  was  admit- 
tedly the  territory  of  a  'foreign  power,  of  a  European  kingdom.  None  of 
our  people  had  ever  laid  claim  to  a  foot  of  it.  Its  acquisition  could  in 
no  sense  be  treated  as  rounding  out  any  existing  claims.  When  we 
acquired  it  we  made  evident  once  for  all  that,  consciously  and  of  set  pur- 
pose, we  had  embarked  on  a  career  of  expansion ;  that  we  had  taken  our 
place  among  those  daring  and  hardy  nations  who  risk  much  with  the 


54  The  Event  Commemorated 

hope  and  desire  of  winning  liigli  position  among  tlie  great  powers  of  the 
earth.  As  is  so  often  the  case  in  nature,  the  law  of  development  of  a  living 
organism  showed  itself  in  its  actual  workings  to  be  wiser  than  the  wis- 
dom of  the  wisest. 

AN   UNPEECEDENTED   CONDITION. 

'•Never  before  had  the  world  seen  the  kind  of  national  expansion 
which  gave  our  people  all  that  part  of  the  American  continent  lying  west 
of  the  thirteen  original  States,  the  greatest  landmark  in  which  was  the 
Louisiana  Purchase.  Our  triumph  in  this  process  of  expansion  was  in- 
dissolubly  bound  up  with  the  success  of  our  peculiar  kind  of  federal  gov- 
ernment; and  this  success  has  been  so  complete  that  because  of  its  very 
completeness  we  now  sometimes  fail  to  appreciate  not  only  the  all-impor- 
tance but  the  tremendous  difficulty  of  the  problem  with  which  our  nation 
was  originally  faced. 

'^When  our  forefathers  joined  to  call  into  being  this  nation,  they 
undertook  a  task  for  which  there  was  but  little  encouraging  precedent. 
The  development  of  civilization  from  the  earliest  period  seemed  to  show 
the  truth  of  two  j)ropositions :  In  the  first  place,  it  had  always  proved 
exceedingly  difficult  to  secure  both  freedom  and  strength  in  any  govern- 
jnent ;  and  in  the  second  place,  it  had  always  proved  well-nigh  impossible 
for  a  nation  to  expand  without  either  breaking  up  or  becoming  a  central- 
ized tyranny.  With  the  success  of  our  effort  to  combine  a  strong  and 
efficient  national  union,  able  to  put  down  disorder  at  home  and  to  main- 
tain our  honor  and  interest  abroad,  I  have  not  now  to  deal.  This  success 
was  signal  and  all-important,  but  it  was  by  no  means  unprecedented  in 
the  same  sense  that  our  type  of  expansion  was  unprecedented. 

COMPARED   WITH  ANCIENT  EXPANSION. 

''The  history  of  Rome  and  of  Greece  illustrates  very  well  the  two 
types  of  expansion  which  had  taken  jDlace  in  ancient  time,  and  which  had 
been  universally  accepted  as  the  only  possible  types  up  to  the  period 
when,  as  a  nation,  we  ourselves  began  to  take  possession  of  this  continent. 
The  Grecian  states  performed  remarkable  feats  of  colonization,  but  each 
colony  as  soon  as  created  became  entirely  independent  of  the  mother 
state,  and  in  after  years  was  almost  as  apt  to  prove  its  enemy  as  its 
friend.  Local  self-government,  local  independence,  was  secured,  but 
only  by  the  absolute  sacrifice  of  anything  resembling  national  unity. 


The  Event  Commemoeated  55 

''In  consequence,  the  "Greek  world,  for  all  its  wonderful  brilliancy 
and  the  extraordinary  artistic,  literary  and  philosophical  development 
which  has  made  all  mankind  its  debtors  for  the  ages,  was  yet  wholly 
unable  to  withstand  a  formidable  foreign  foe,  save  spasmodically.  As 
soon  as  powerful,  permanent  empires  arose  on  its  outskirts,  the  Greek 
states  in  the  neighborhood  of  such  empires  fell  under  their  sway.  Na- 
tional power  and  greatness  were  completely  sacrificed  to  local  liberty. 

"With  Rome  the  exact  opposite  occurred.  The  imperial  city  rose 
to  absolute  dominion  over  all  the  people  of  Italy  and  then  expanded  her 
rule  over  the  entire  civilized  world  by  a  process  which  kept  the  nation 
strong  and  united  but  gave  no  room  whatever  for  local  liberty  and  self- 
government.  All  other  cities  and  countries  were  subject  to  Eome.  In 
consequence  this  great  and  masterful  race  of  warriors,  rulers,  road  build- 
ers and  administrators,  stamped  their  indelible  impress  upon  all  the 
after  life  of  our  race,  and  yet  let  an  over-centralization  eat  out  the  vitals 
of  their  empire  until  it  became  an  empty  shell,  so  that  when  the  barbar- 
ians came  they  destroyed  only  what  had  already  become  worthless  to  the 

world. 

AN  experiment  in  government. 

''The  underlying  viciousness  of  each  type  of  expansion  was  plain 
enough  and  the  remedy  now  seems  simple  enough.  But  when  the  fathers 
of  the  Republic  first- formulated  the  Constitution  under  which  we  live  this 
remedy  was  untried  and  no  one  could  foretell  how  it  would  work.  They 
themselves  began  the  experiment  almost  immediately  by  adding  new 
states  to  the  original  thirteen.  Excellent  people  in  the  East  viewed  this 
initial  expansion  of  the  country  with  great  alarm.  Exactly  as  during  the 
colonial  period  many  good  people  in  the  mother  country  thought  it  highly 
important  that  settlers  should  be  kept  out  of  the  Ohio  Valley  in  the  inter- 
est of  the  fur  companies,  so  after  we  had  become  a  nation  many  good 
people  on  the  Atlantic  coast  felt  grave  apprehension  lest  they  might 
somehow  be  hurt  by  the  westward  growth  of  the  nation. 

nation's  destruction  prophesied. 

"These  good  people  shook  their  heads  over  the  formation  of  states 
in  the  fertile  Ohio  Valley,  which  now  forms  part  of  the  heart  of  our 
nation ;  and  they  declared  that  the  destruction  of  the  Republic  had  been 
accomplished  when  through  the  Louisiana  Purchase  we  acquired  nearly 
half  of  what  is  now  that  same  Republic's  present  territory.    Nor  was  their 


56  The  Event  Commemorated 

feeling  unnatural.  Only  the  adventurous  and  the  far-seeing  can  be  ex- 
pected heartily  to  welcome  the  process  of  expansion,  for  the  nation  that 
expands  is  -^a  nation  which  is  entering  upon  a  great  career,  and  with 
greatness  there  must  of  necessity  come  perils  which  daunt  all  save  the 
most  stout-hearted. 

CARVING  THE  WILDERNESS. 

'^We  expanded  by  carving  the  wilderness  into  territories  and  out  of 
these  territories  building  new  states  when  once  they  had  received  as 
permanent  settlers  a  sufficient  number  of  our  own  people.  Being  a  prac- 
tical nation,  we  have  never  tried  to  force  on  any  section  of  our  new 
territory  an  unsuitable  form  of  government  merely  because  it  was  suit- 
able for  another  section  under  different  conditions.  Of  the  territory  cov- 
ered by  the  Louisiana  Purchase  a  portion  was  given  statehood  within  a 
few  years.  Another  portion  has  not  been  admitted  to  statehood,  although 
a  century  has  elapsed— although  doubtless  it  soon  will  be.  In  each  case 
we  showed  the  practical  governmental  genius  of  our  race  by  devising 
methods  suitable  to  meet  the  actual  existing  needs ;  not  by  insisting  upon 
the  application  of  some  abstract  shibboleth  to  all  our  new  possessions 
alike,  no  matter  how  incongruous  this  application  might  sometimes  be. 

''Over  by  far  the  major  part  of  the  territory,  however,  our  people 
spread  in  such  numbers  during  the  course  of  the  nineteenth  century 
that  we  were  able  to  build  up  state  after  state,  each  with  exactly  the  same 
complete  local  independence  in  all  matters  affecting  purely  its  own  domes- 
tic interests  as  in  any  of  the  original  thirteen  states,  each  owing  the  same 
absolute  fealty  to  the  Union  of  all  the  states  which  each  of  the  original 
thirteen  states  also  owes— and  finally  each  having  the  same  proportional 
right  to  its  share  in  shaping  and  directing  the  common  policy  of  the 
Union  which  is  possessed  by  any  other  state,  whether  of  the  original 
thirteen  or  not. 

W0RX.D  ACCEPTS  OUR  PROCESS. 

''This  process  now  seems  to  us  part  of  the  natural  order  of  things, 
but  it  was  wholly  unknown  until  our  own  people  devised  it.  It  seems  to 
us  a  mere  matter  of  course,  a  matter  of  elementary  right  and  justice,  that 
in  the  deliberations  of  the  national  representative  bodies  the  representa- 
tives of  a  state  which  came  into  the  Union  but  yesterday  stand  on  a 
footing  of  exact  and  entire  equality  with  those  of  the  commonwealths 
whose  sons  once  signed  the  Declaration  of  Independence, 


The  Event  Commemorated  57 

''But  this  way  of  looking  at  the  matter  is  purely  modern,  and  in  its 
origin  purely  American.  When  Washington,  during  his  presidency,  saw 
new  states  come  into  the  Union  on  a  footing  of  complete  equality  with 
the  old,  every  European  nation  which  had  colonies  still  administered 
them  as  dependencies,  and  every  other  mother  country  treated  the  colon- 
ist not  as  a  self-governing  equal,  but  as  a  subject. 

' '  The  process  which  we  began  has  since  been  followed  by  all  the  great 
peoples  who  were  capable  both  of  expansion  and  of  self-government,  and 
now  the  world  accepts  it  as  the  natural  process,  as  the  rule ;  but  a  century 
and  a  quarter  ago  it  was  not  merely  exceptional— it  was  unknown. 

' '  This,  then,  is  the  great  historic  significance  of  the  movement  of  con- 
tinental expansion  in  which  the  Louisiana  Purchase  was  the  most  striking 
single  achievement.  It  stands  out  in  marked  relief  even  among  the  feats 
of  a  nation  of  pioneers,  a  nation  whose  people  have  from  the  beginning 
been  picked  out  by  a  process  of  natural  selection  from  among  the  most 
enterprising  individuals  of  the  nations  of  Western  Europe. 

AN  EPITOME   OF  OUR  HISTORY. 

"The  acquisition  of  the  territory  is  a  credit  to  the  broad  and  far- 
sighted  statesmanship  of  the  great  statesmen  to  whom  it  was  immedi- 
ately due,  and  above  all  to  the  aggressive  and  masterful  character  of 
the  hardy  pioneer  folk  to  whose  restless  energy  these  statesmen  gave 
expression  and  direction,  whom  they  followed  rather  than  led.  The 
history  of  the  land  comprised  within  the  limits  of  the  Purchase  is  an 
epitome  of  the  entire  history  of  our  people.  Within  these  limits  we  have 
gradually  built  up  state  after  state,  until  now  they  many  times  over 
surpass  in  wealth,  in  population  and  in  many-sided  development  the 
original  thirteen  states  as  they  were  when  their  delegates  met  in  the 
continental  congress." 

WHY  THE  EXPOSITION  WAS  INTERNATIONAL. 

Thus,  in  whatever  way  the  event  known  in  history  as  the  Louisiana 
Purchase,  is  viewed,  it  is  now  a  matter  of  congratulation  both  to  the 
people  of  the  United  States  and  the  world  at  large.  It  elevated  the 
United  States  from  the  position  of  an  inferior,  struggling  power,  beset 
by  aliens  on  every  side,  to  that  of  a  vast,  consolidated  commonwealth 
stretching  from  ocean  to  ocean.  It  presented  to  her  people  a  problem 
of  material  development  whose  solution  promised  to  be  the  work  of  cen- 


58  The  Event  Commemoeated 

turies;  but  the  work  progressed  with  sucli  giant  strides  that,  ere  one 
century  had  elapsed  the  addition  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  to  the  domain 
of  the  United  States  proved  to  be  the  event  which  gave  her  the  mag- 
nificent outlook  of  a  world-power.  From  the  moment  she  could,  from 
her  own  shores,  look  over  the  broad  expanse  of  the  Pacific  that  was  her 
manifest  destiny. 

The  pioneer  explorers,  Lewis  and  Clark,  Pike,  Long  and  Fremont, 
first  laid  bare  the  vast  possibilities  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase.  Its 
magnificent  rivers,  its  lofty  mountains,  and  its  superb  picturesqueness, 
which  has  done  so  much  to  develop  a  national  pride  and  patriotism,  were 
first  brought  into  the  life  of  the  people  by  these  intrepid  men.  They  also 
hinted  at  the  immeasurable  wealth  of  field  and  mine.  Then  came  the 
long  emigrant  trains,  the  railroads  and  the  swarms  of  hardy  settlers— the 
new,  broad  civilization  which  was  created  west  of  the  Mississippi  River. 

It  was  a  resistless  tide  of  rich,  rushing  blood  which  made  the  United 
States  what  it  is  and  which  is  thus  fitly  commemorated  by  the  greatest 
of  expositions.  Had  the  Louisiana  Purchase  never  been,  the  St.  Louis 
exposition  would  never  have  been  international  in  its  scope  and  meaning. 
But  the  Louisiana  Purchase,  as  developed  within  the  past  century,  has 
added  the  energy,  the  bravery,  the  tireless  and  practical  intellect  and  the 
boundless  natural  wealth  of  the  West,  to  the  capital,  the  organized  in- 
dustries and  the  general  maturity  of  the  East,  thereby  laying  the  founda- 
tion of  a  progressive  greatness  which  is  already  of  world-wide  recognition ; 
and  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  fully  rose  to  the  height  and 
breadth  of  these  splendid  results. 


CHAPTER  11. 
PREVIOUS  INTERNATIONAL  EXPOSITIONS 

World's  Columbian  Exposition  Reviewed — Municipalities  Struggle  for  Honor — Woman's 
Building  a  Feature — Buffalo's  World's  Fair — Opening  the  Crystal  Palace — France 
Enters  the  Lists — Vienna  and  the  Centennial — The  Paris  Exposition  of  1889 — Eiffel 
Tower   Based  on  American  Idea — Closes  in  Brilliant  Triumph. 

SHAKSPEEE  said  that  comparisons  are  ''odorous"  or,  according 
to  popular  version,  odious ;  yet,  all  things  have  relative  value  and 
so  it  is  necessary  that  there  should  be  some  basis  of  comparison  in  fixing 
the  greatness  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  in  our  minds.  Noth- 
ing the  world  has  ever  seen  before  so  nearly  approaches  the  magnificence 
and  vastness  of  this  grand  fair  as  the  international  exposition  given  at 
Chicago  ten  years  ago,  in  commemoration  of  Columbus'  services  to  the 
world.  Therefore  the  St.  Louis  effort  will  be  judged  generally  by  the 
standard  established  by  Chicago. 

»V0ELD's    COLUMBIAN    EXPOSITION    EEVIEWED. 

The  great  Chicago  fair  is  too  fresh  in  the  public  mind  to  require  any 
vast  amount  of  space  in  this  volume.  Its  beauty  earned  for  it  the  eupho- 
nious titles  "white  city"  and  ''dream  city."  Its  general  plan  and  the 
style  of  architecture  that  characterized  its  buildings  left  an  imprint  on 
all  subsequent  expositions  and  find  an  echo  in  the  Louisiana  Purchase 
Exposition  today.  Its  organization  and  management  were  similar  to 
that  governing  the  St.  Louis  show.  It  opened  May  1  and  closed  Oct.  31, 
1893,  drawing  a  large  attendance  and  proving  a  success  in  every  sense 
of  the  word.  During  the  early  months  of  the  fair  the  attendance  was  not 
encouraging,  but  after  August  pilgrims  flocked  in  a  constant  stream 
from  all  parts  of  the  world. 

Paid  admissions  during  the  entire  period  numbered  21,479,661  and 
the  passes  6,052,188.  On  Chicago  day,  Oct.  9,  716,881  persons  passed 
through  the  turnstiles— the  largest  assemblage  of  authentic  record  which 
has  greeted  any  civic  occasion. 

59 


60  pEEViors  International  Expositions 

Without  taking  into  consideration  the  amount  expended  by  private 
exhibitors,  $37,000,000  was  appropriated  for  the  fair-  $25,000,000  by 
the  management,  $6,000,000  by  foreign  governments  and  an  equal  amount 
by  the  various  states.  Two  hundred  acres  of  what  is  now  Jackson  park 
were  occupied  by  the  buildings,  which  numbered  400.  These,  like  the 
structures  at  St.  Louis,  were  great  frames  covered  with  white  staif,  a 
jDroduct  of  plaster  of  Paris. 

MUNICIPALITIES  STRUGGLE   FOR  HONOR. 

Its  preliminary  history  is  a  record  of  a  battle  of  municipal  forces  and 
interests  such  as  no  other  chapter  of  the  civic  annals  of  our  country  can 
relate.  Four  great  cities— New  York,  St.  Louis,  Washington  and  Chi- 
cago—were bitter  competitors  for  the  honor.  On  the  eighth  ballot  taken 
by  Congress  Chicago  received  157  votes,  New  York  107,  St.  Louis  25  and 
Washington  18. 

Of  the  hundreds  of  structures  at  Chicago  the  Administration  Build- 
ing, in  which  were  located  the  offices  of  the  exhibition,  was  considered 
the  most  beautiful.  It  was  surmounted  by  a  magnificent  gilded  dome  120 
feet  in  diameter  and  210  feet  in  height.  The  whole  area  covered  was 
260  feet  square. 

One  of  the  most  pronounced  wonders  of  the  Chicago  exposition  was 
the  Fisheries  Building,  the  like  of  which  had  never  before  been  seen. 
It  was  1,100  feet  long  and  200  feet  wide.  The  general  Fisheries  exhibit 
was  in  the  central  portion.  At  each  end  was  an  immense  wing.  One  of 
these  contained  the  extensive  Angling  exhibit,  while  the  other  was  the 
Aquarium.  The  latter  was  a  great  tank,  with  glass  fronts,  575  feet  in 
length,  holding  140,000  gallons  of  water,  wherein  innumerable  varieties 
of  fishes  were  to  be  seen. 

woman's   BUILDING   A   FEATURE. 

A  remarkable  circumstance  is  found  in  the  fact  that  the  Woman's 
Building,  reserved  for  the  display  of  feminine  work  and  progress,  was 
designed  by  a  woman— a  graduate  of  the  Architectural  School  of  Tech- 
nology in  Boston— Miss  Sophia  G.  Hayden.  The  prize  Miss  Hayden 
received  for  the  design  and  its  execution  was  $1,000.  It  was  given  a 
beautiful  site  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the  park,  near  Horticultural 
Hall  and  the  Illinois  State  Building,  not  far  from  the  picturesque  Wooded 
Island.    Like  all  of  the  larger  buildings  it  faced  a  lagoon— an  idea  car- 


Peevious  International  Expositions  61 

ried  out  in  grouping  the  more  important  buildings  at  the  Louisiana  Pur- 
chase Exposition. 

Forty  countries  were  represented  as  exhibitors.  Many  of  these  had 
buildings,  as  did  various  states.  The  United  States  government  had  a 
fine  separate  building.  The  possibilities  of  such  structures  from  the 
standpoint  of  permanence  is  found  in  the  fact  that  several  are  still  stand- 
ing—the German  building,  for  instance,  the  art  gallery  where  the  great 
Field  Columbian  Museum  is  now  housed,  and  La  Eabida  convent.  And, 
by  the  way,  the  three  caravels,  duplicates  of  those  in  which  Columbus 
plowed  the  seas  on  his  eventful  voyage  of  discovery,  which  were  sent  from 
Spain  as  an  exhibit,  remained  ten  years  in  an  excellent  state  of  preserva- 
tion in  the  park  lagoons  after  almost  every  vestige  of  the  fair  had  dis- 
appeared. 

Chicago's  peincipal  buildings. 

The  great  buildings  and  those  attracting  most  attention  aside  from 
those  previously  mentioned  were  the  Manufacturers,  Machinery,  Agri- 
culture, Horticulture,  Mines,  Transportation,  Electricity,  Fine  Arts  and 
Liberal  Arts. 

The  cold  storage  building  will  be  recalled  principally  as  the  scene  of 
a  fire  horror  early  in  the  history  of  the  fair.  It  is  a  peculiar  circumstance 
that  the  same  fate— destruction  by  fire,  although  happily  without  similar 
loss  of  life — befell  most  of  the  buildings  at  the  close  of  the  Columbian 
Exposition.  This  has  always  been  regarded  as  having  been  a  plan  to  get 
rid  of  the  expense  of  wrecking  them. 

Three  features  of  the  World's  Columbian  Exposition  require  special 
mention  before  passing  from  the  subject— the  World's  Congress  of  Re- 
ligions held  there,  the  never-to-be  forgotten  Midway  Plaisance,  and  that 
artistic  triumph,  the  Court  of  Honor.  The  latter  is  equalled,  yes,  dis- 
counted, at  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition,  in  the  combined  features 
of  the  Plaza  of  St.  Louis,  the  Grand  Basin,  Cascades  and  the  Plaza  of 
States.    So,  too,  the  Pike  is  the  grander  successor  of  the  Midway. 

buffalo's  world's  fair. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  dwell  at  length  upon  other  American  fairs  since 
that  time.  Of  these  the  Pan-American  Exposition  at  Buffalo  was  the 
most  conspicuous.  Buifalo  proved  her  claim  to  the  title  of  "The  Electric 
City."  It  was  fitting  that  electricity  should  have  been  the  dominant 
feature,  for  the  Cataract  of  Niagara  is  within  a  few  miles  and  the  count- 


62  Peevious  Inteenational  Expositions 

less  millions  of  liorse-power  of  that  great  waterfall  was  harnessed  to 
produce  the  energy  which  moved  the  wheels  and  illuminated  the  buildings 
within  the  fair  inclosure. 

The  piece  de  resistance  of  that  exposition  was  the  Electric  Tower, 
looming  375  feet  above  the  earth.  Its  main  body  was  80  feet  square  and 
200  feet  high.  The  crown  was  in  three  parts,  of  diminishing  propor- 
tions. The  first  of  these  was  an  arcaded  loggia,  with  pavilionettes 
adorning  each  of  the  four  corners.  Above  the  loggia  was  a  high,  circular 
colonnade  entirely  open.  A  spiral  stairway  in  the  center  led  up  to  a 
domed  cupola,  on  which  was  poised  a  figure  of  the  Goddess  of  Light, 
overlooking  and  dominating  the  entire  exposition.  Upon  this  tower  and 
the  buildings  and  courts  were  electrical  illuminations  on  a  scale  never 
before  attempted.  Elevators  were  run  to  a  restaurant,  roof  garden, 
reception-room,  etc.,  on  the  various  floors  of  the  huge  structure. 

Because  of  the  somewhat  local  character  of  the  fairs  held  at  San 
Francisco,  Omaha,  Atlanta,  Charleston  and  other  American  cities  of  late 
years,  only  passing  mention  of  them  is  necessary. 

EAELY   HISTOEY  OF  INTEENATIONAL  EXPOSITIONS. 

It  seems  almost  incredible  in  reviewing  the  history  of  similar  exposi- 
tions that  the  first  effort  in  that  direction  on  a  large  scale  was  instituted 
only  a  half  century  ago.  In  the  decades  that  have  passed,  the  art  of 
exhibiting  has  developed  into  a  science  so  exact  as  to  make  possible  the 
dream  of  beauty  St.  Louis  has  presented  to  the  world. 

To  England  may  be  attributed  the  honor  of  having  brought  together 
all  the  nations  to  display  the  progress  they  had  attained  in  the  race  of 
artistic  and  industrial  rivalry.  Despite  that  fact,  the  earliest  suggestion 
and  birthplace  of  all  such  competitive  exhibitions  was  in  France. 

Discussion  of  early  fairs  of  international  scope  naturally  centers 
about  the  Crystal  Palace.  Its  management  has  had  a  peculiar  and  sig- 
nificant bearing  on  all  subseciuent  exhibitions  of  correlative  scope.  To 
start  with,  competition  governed  the  selection  of  the  building  plans.  Only 
thirty  days  were  allowed  for  the  presentation  of  such  plans,  yet  two 
hundred  and  thirty-three  competitors  appeared.  While  the  majority 
were  from  London  and  the  immediate  vicinity,  fully  one-sixth  were 
foreigners. 

Through  a  happy  thought  the  building  was  made  1851  feet  long,  the 
numerals  corresponding  with  the  year  in  which  the  exposition  was  held. 


PkEVIOUS  iNTEKNATIOlSrAL,  EXPOSITIONS  63 

The  breadth  was  450  feet.  One  million  dollars  was  expended  on  the 
building,  which  required  about  twenty  acres  of  glass,  two  hundred  and 
five  miles  of  sash  bar,  thirty-four  miles  of  gutter  pipe  and  other  materials 
on  a  correspondingly  large  scale. 

OPENING  THE  CRYSTAL.  PALACE. 

On  May  1,  1851,  Queen  Victoria  opened  the  doors  and  the  principal 
dignitaries  of  the  land  participated  in  the  formalities  of  the  occasion. 

Excellent  management  and  the  unlimited  enthusiasm  the  exposition 
evoked  were  responsible  for  the  remarkable  fact  that  nearly  $1,000,000 
surplus  remained  after  all  expenses  had  been  paid.  Never  since  have 
such  returns  been  obtained  in  proportion  to  the  source  of  revenue.  The 
concessions  were  limited,  no  liquors  being  sold  on  the  grounds  and  the 
refreshment  concession  going  for  $27,500,  a  figure  that  would  cause  mer- 
riment today  if  offered  for  such  a  privilege.  It  may  be  a  sad  commentary, 
but  it  is  nevertheless  true,  that  in  these  later  days  the  liquor  privileges 
have  been  considered  among  the  most  productive  sources  of  revenue  to 
such  enterprises. 

What  the  refreshment  concessions  are  worth  at  a  modem  fair  may 
be  judged  from  the  fact  that  $375,000  would  not  cover  the  business  done 
in  supplying  food  at  this  first  great  international  exposition.  There  was 
excellent  judgment  shown  in  the  matter  of  regulating  the  price  of  admis- 
sion in  that  early  day.  On  all  days  except  Friday  and  Saturday  the 
admission  was  fixed  at  one  shilling  (25c  in  our  money).  On  Friday  of 
each  week,  two  shillings  six  pence,  or  75c,  was  charged  and  on  Saturday, 
five  shillings,  or  $1.25. 

DETAILS  OF  THE  FIEST  BIG  SHOW. 

This  scale  of  prices  was  adopted  in  order  that  all  classes  might  enjoy 
the  fair  to  the  fullest  extent.  Through  this  system  people  of  moderate 
circumstances  were  enabled  to  enjoy  the  fair  during  the  early  portion  of 
the  week,  while  those  who  sought  to  be  more  exclusive  were  afforded 
opportunity  to  enjoy  the  fair  amid  more  particular  surroundings  on  the 
high  priced  days.  Nearly  $2,000,000  was  taken  in  at  the  gates  and  the 
city  of  London  increased  its  revenue  about  $20,000,000  during  the  six 
months. 

The  United  States  had  comparatively  few  exhibitors,  yet  secured  a 
larger  number  of  awards,  proportionately,  than  any  other  foreign  com- 


64  Previous  International  Expositions 

petitor.  It  is  a  notable  fact  that  the  exhibition  of  Powers '  sculpture  ' '  The 
Oreek  Slave,"  did  more  than  any  other  circumstance  to  break  down  the 
European  idea  that  Americans  were  a  race  of  shopkeepers  without  artistic 
possibilities.  The  awards  conferred  at  this  exposition  numbered  5,248. 
Dublin  followed  in  1853  with  an  exposition  claiming  international 
scope,  initiated  and  conducted  by  private  capital,  but  it  was  comparatively 
local  in  its  scope.  Its  most  striking  feature  was  the  most  magnificent 
group  of  paintings  ever  assembled  up  to  that  time.  ,Cork,  too,  conducted 
an  exposition  in  the  same  year,  Munich  in  the  following  year  and  Man- 
chester in  1857. 

NEW  York's  disastrous  effort  in  1853. 

The  New  York  World's  Fair  in  1853  was  the  immediate  successor  to 
the  Crystal  Palace,  where  it  found  its  inspiration.  It  was  handicapped 
from  the  start  by  the  absence  of  government  support.  Strangely  enough, 
hostility  developed  on  every  side,  the  contention  being  raised  that  com- 
petitors, both  at  home  and  abroad,  would  receive  undue  advantage 
through  the  exposition. 

The  fair  was  held  at  42nd  Street  and  6th  Avenue,  the  capital  stock 
of  the  exposition  company  being  $200,000.  When  the  fair  was  opened, 
July  14,  1853,  President  Pierce,  members  of  his  cabinet,  Governor  Hora- 
tio Seymour,  of  New  York,  and  a  number  of  government  diplomats  and 
distinguished  personages  officiated  in  its  formalities.  As  with  the  Lon- 
don fair,  only  four  classes  of  exhibits  were  considered :  Raw  materials, 
manufacturers,  machinery  and  fine  arts.  Of  the  4,100  exhibitors,  less 
than  one-half  were. American.  The  deficit,  borne  by  the  stockholders  at 
its  close,  amounted  to  $300,000. 

FRANCE  enters  THE  LISTS. 

Emperor  Louis  Napoleon,  of  France,  made  the  Paris  Exposition  of 
1855  the  artistic  success  it  proved  and  added  to  the  purely  commercial 
aspects  of  such  fairs  the  artistic  imprint  its  successors  bear  to  this  day. 
The  Palace  of  Industry  of  that  fair  remains  today  a  feature  of  the 
Champs  Elysees.  Of  24,000  exhibitors  only  144  were  Americans.  The 
exposition  was  a  financial  loss,  although  the  city  of  Paris  gained  $10,000,- 
000  in  trade  during  the  season.  The  attendance  was  5,162,330  and  the 
admission  ranged  from  eight  cents  on  Sunday  to  $1.00  on  Friday.  The 
ordinary  general  admission  was  one  franc,  about  20  cents. 


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Pkevious  Inteenational  Expositions  73 

A  second  great  universal  exposition  was  held  in  London  in  1862. 
Because  of  the  Civil  War  this  country  took  little  interest  and  little  part 
in  it.  Success  crowned  the  fair,  however,  and  it  closed  without  a  deficit 
with  a  daily  average  attendance  of  36,500.  Paris  then  came  to  the  front 
with  a  second  fair  to  advertise  itself  as  the  handsomest  city  on  the  globe. 
The  site  was  the  historic  Champs  de  Mars.  It  was  opened  by  Napoleon 
and  Eugenie,  April  1,  1867,  and  continued  until  Nov.  3.  The  expenses 
exceeded  the  receipts,  yet  it  brought  years  of  prosperity  to  Paris. 

VIENNA  AND  THE   CENTENNIAL. 

Vienna's  international  exposition  was  held  in  1873  at  a  cost  of  $7,800,- 
000  and  with  664  American  exhibitors  who  carried  off  442  awards. 

The  Centennial  exposition,  held  at  Pairmount  Park,  Philadelphia,  in 
1876,  is  yet  fresh  in  the  minds  of  many  of  our  people.  It  was  in  many 
respects  the  greatest  fair  up  to  that  time  and  did  much  to  place  the  United 
States  and  its  interests  in  a  proper  light  before  Europe.  Congress  cre- 
ated a  centennial  board,  stock  was  sold  at  $10  a  share,  a  loan  of  $1,500,000 
was  made  and  later  repaid,  $3,000,000  was  contributed  by  Pennnylvania 
and  Philadelphia,  and  other  states  contributed  liberally.  The  fair  was 
open  from  May  10  to  Nov.  10  and  was  visited  by  nearly  ten  million  per- 
sons. Of  the  foreign  nations  Spain  had  the  most  numerous  exhibits, 
3,822.  It  was  a  grand  success,  with  magnificent  after  results  at  a  time 
of  gloomy  depression.  Many  hold  the  fair  to  have  been  the  turning 
point  of  the  financial  crisis. 

France  held  another  fair  in  Paris  in  1878  and  two  were  held  in  Aus- 
tralia in  the  two  succeeding  years. 

THE  PAEIS  EXPOSITION   OF    '89. 

The  greatest  effort  ever  made  in  that  direction  up  to  that  time  charac- 
terized the  Paris  exposition  of  1889,  in  commemoration  of  the  French 
revolution.  The  Champs  de  Mars  was  again  selected  as  the  site.  The 
total  space  occupied  was  173  acres.  The  largest  building  on  the  grounds 
was  the  Palace  of  Machinery,  measuring  1,378  feet  in  length,  406  feet  in 
width  and  having  an  elevation  of  166  feet.  The  floor  covered  11  acres. 
The  total  cost  of  the  structure  was  $1,500,000.  The  Palace  of  Arts  cost 
$1,350,000;  the  Palace  of  the  French  Sections,  $1,150,000;  while  $500,000 
was  expended  on  the  parks  and  gardens.  Among  these  parks  were  inter- 
spersed that  marvelous  collection  of  villages  which  seem^ed  to  the  spec- 


74  Peevious  InteenationaIj  Expositions 

tator  to  represent  the  world  in  miniature  with  Indian  huts,  Arabian  tents, 
a  street  in  Algiers,  a  Caledonian  village,  etc.  The  Eiffel  Tower  was  the 
principal  attraction. 

EIFFEL  TOWER  BASED  ON  AMERICAN  IDEA. 

This  structure,  984  feet  high,  was  named  after  its  inventor,  a  French 
engineer,  who,  however,  has  given  credit  to  this  country  as  having  fur- 
nished the  idea ;  possibly  the  Sawyer  Observatory  at  the  Centennial  may 
have  suggested  it.  Its  base  formed  a  gigantic  archway  over  a  main  path 
in  the  central  grounds  of  the  exposition.  The  tower  was  of  very  simple 
construction,  built  entirely  of  iron  girders  and  pillars,  with  four  great 
shafts  consisting  of  four  columns  each,  starting  from  the  four  corners  of 
the  base,  and  merging  into  a  single  shaft,  which  formed  the  main  part  of 
the  tower.  This  shaft  ended  in  a  great  cupola  or  reception  room,  which  in 
turn  was  surmounted  by  a  still  higher  observatory,  over  800  feet  above  the 
ground.  The  total  weight  has  been  estimated  at  15,000,000  pounds,  or 
7,500  tons,  and  the  cost  at  about  $1,000,000,  the  French  government 
assuming  one-third  the  expense. 

CLOSES  IN  BRILLIANT  TRIUMPH. 

The  exposition  was  in  every  respect  a  brilliant  triumph.  The  exhibits 
surpassed  all  previous  displays.  The  attendance  exceeded  the  most  san- 
guine expectation.  The  financial  results  were  unexampled  in  the  history 
of  expositions,  and  so  remain.  There  were  fifty-five  thousand  exhibitors ; 
of  this  number  the  United  States  furnished  nearly  two  thousand.  The 
total  number  of  admissions  by  ticket  was  a  fraction  over  twenty-eight 
millions.  The  attendance  on  the  last  day  was  four  hundred  thousand. 
The  average  attendance  was  one  hundred  and  thirty-seven  thousand  two 
hundred  and  eighty-nine. 

The  most  remarkable  outcome  of  this  exposition  was  the  financial  earn- 
ings, nearly  $2,000,000  remaining  in  profits  at  the  close— something  un- 
precedented and  as  yet  unequaled  in  the  history  of  international 
expositions. 

It  demonstrated,  in  a  very  effective  way,  the  salient  traits  of  the 
French  character— its  wonderful  faculty  of  presenting  the  things  of 
this  world  in  such  pleasing  fashion  as  to  attract  and  hold  the  attention 
of  the  most  diverse  temperaments,  and  the  practical  ability  to  closely 
look  after  the  dollars  and  cents  of  those  drawn  into  such  charming  toils. 


CHAPTER  III. 
U.  S.  LIFE,=SAVING  SERVICE, 

Its  Thrilling  Exhibit — Proven  Heroes,  Every  One — A  Duplicate  of  Actual  Stations — 
Daily  Routine  of  a  Station— Out  with  the  Life  Boat — Methods  of  Battling  with  the 
Elements — The  Lyle  Gun  in  Service — The  "Breeches  Buoy"   in  Action. 

iil^^AN  the  life  boat!"    This  cry,  echoing  many  times  daily  never 

-*-   "^  failed  to  send  a  thrill  through  spectators  at  the  exposition. 

To  those  who  dwell  along  the  seacoast,  or  the  shores  of  the  Great 
Lakes,  it  was  a  familiar  story  that  never  grew  old.  To  those  from  inland 
points  it  added  a  zest  of  interest  greater  than  most  exhibits. 

Splash  goes  the  stanch  little  craft  into  the  miniature  sea  constructed 
by  the  government  to  illustrate  the  prowess  of  its  brave  life-saving  crews. 

'^Bang"  goes  the  cannon  that  sends  the  life  line  to  the  storm  beaten 
mariner. 

Behold  before  our  very  eyes  we  witness  the  salvation  of  the  storm- 
tossed  and  shipwrecked  sailor,  just  as  it  occurs  almost  daily  at  some  dan- 
gerous point  along  our  extensive  coast  lines.  The  life  savers  are  bending 
at  their  oars  on  their  mission  of  mercy  and  unconsciously  we  hum  a 
snatch  from  that  good  old  hymn,  ' '  Throw  Out  the  Life  Line. ' ' 

Never  before  had  its  significance  been  so  deeply  impressed.  Probably 
six  out  of  ten  who  watched  the  stirring  scene  broke  into  that  song,  or 
found  it  running  through  their  minds. 

PROVEN  HEEOES,  EVERY  ONE. 

The  exhibit  was  made  by  the  Treasury  Department  and  no  pains  were 
spared  to  insure  its  completeness.  World 's  fair  visitors  thus  saw  exactly 
how  the  government  life-saving  heroes  work  along  the  vast  American 
seaboard.  The  method  of  reaching  storm-imperiled  ships,  of  rescuing 
their  crews,  of  reducing  to  a  minimum  the  off-shore  loss  of  life  by  ship- 
wreck, all  these  were  depicted  in  graphic  detail,  the  most  skillful  men  and 
the  best  equipmentof  the  service  being  employed  for  that  purpose. 

75 


76  U.  S.  Life-Saving  Service 

A  duplicate  of  actual  stations. 

The  model  life-saving  station  was  situated  just  south  of  the  French 
pavilion,  west  of  Skinker  road,  being  constructed  from  plans  drawn  by 
James  Knox  Taylor,  supervising  architect  of  the  Treasury  Department, 
at  a  cost  of  $8,000.  Its  interior  was  a  duplicate  of  those  in  actual  service, 
but  the  exterior  design  was  more  ornamental.  It  was  surfaced  in  plaster 
and  had  a  regulation  tower  about  50  feet  high.  The  building  was  roofed 
with  Spanish  tin  tiles  painted  red. 

The  keystone  of  the  station's  arched  entrance  represented  an  old- 
fashioned  man-of-war  under  full  sail.  The  building  covered  an  area  43  by 
70  feet,  and  among  its  striking  features  was  the  boat  room,  40  by  43  feet, 
from  which  extended  a  run  into  the  water  of  the  lake,  40  feet  distant.  The 
boats  were  launched  by  means  of  this  run. 

Out  in  the  lake,  400  feet  distant  from  the  station,  was  a  drill-mast,  70 
feet  high,  to  which  a  yard  40  feet  long  was  fastened.  This  yard  was  the 
target  for  the  projectile  fired  from  a  mortar,  carrying  the  lifeline  as  it  is 
shot  through  the  air  to  a  sinking  ship,  exactly  as  in  actual  service.  These 
simple  preparations  covered  the  preliminary  work  for  the  exhibit. 

SPECTACLE  WAS  STIEEING. 

The  daily  performance  of  the  life  savers  themselves  furnished  a  spec- 
tacle calculated  to  thrill  the  most  phlegmatic  souls.  The  men  enlisted  in 
the  life-saving  service  are,  as  a  rule^  descendants  of  generations  of  hardy 
sailors  and  fishermen,  and,  both  by  heredity  and  training,  are  skilled  in 
their  dangerous  work.  The  crew  selected  for  the  world 's  fair  were  picked 
men,  some  of  them  signally  distinguished  for  bravery.  For  adminis- 
trative purposes,  the  seacoast  and  lake  shores  of  the  United  States  have 
been  divided  into  12  districts,  each  with  its  quota  of  life-saving  stations ; 
consequently  a  chosen  corps  from  the  entire  organization  represents  a 
high  order  of  discipline  and  ability. 

AEDUOUS  SEEVICE,  DAY  AND  NIGHT. 

The  service  is  arduous  day  and  night,  as  well  as  extra-hazardous 
when  the  incident  of  a  shipwreck  calls  for  the  saving  of  life  in  a  storm. 
During  the  winter  a  constant  patrol  along  the  coast  is  maintained,  the 
various  life-saving  crews  going  on  guard  detail  for  this  patrol  work  in 
successive  relays.    The  stations  in  the  same  coast  territory  are  connected 


U.  S.  Life-Saving  Seevice  77 

by  telephone,  so  that  when  necessity  arises  one  station  may  call  another  to 
its  assistance  or  notify  it  of  a  vessel  in  distress  that  has  been  seen.  Each 
of  the  12  districts  is  under  the  command  of  a  superintendent,  and  each 
life-saving  station  is  commanded  by  a  keeper.  The  former,  though  sup- 
posed to  exercise  but  a  general  supervision,  often  personally  assists  in  the 
work  of  rescue.  Of  their  small  number  two  have  been  drowned  of  late 
years,  one  has  escaped  that  fate  by  the  merest  chance,  and  another  has 
died  of  exposure. 

DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  A  STATION". 

The  keeper  of  a  life-saving  station  from  his  tower  sweeps  with  his 
marine  glass  as  much  of  the  coast  as  is  within  range,  keeping  an  especially 
close  watch  in  stormy  weather.  He  is  also  in  telephone  touch  with  the 
keepers  of  nearby  lighthouses,  who  at  once  notify  him  if  they  have  espied 
a  ship  in  distress.  In  the  event  that  a  rescue  is  necessary,  the  station 
keeper  musters  his  crew,  directs  the  work  and  personally  serves  alongside 
his  men.  The  crews  of  some  stations  are  engaged  in  fishing  or  boating 
business  of  their  own,  but  are  subject  to  call  at  any  hour.  At  the  more 
perilous  points  they  are  exclusively  in  the  life-saving  service. 

THE  EVANSTON   (iLL.)   HEEOES. 

The  station  at  Evanston,  111.,  on  Lake  Michigan,  has  a  crew  which, 
with  the  exception  of  the  keeper,  is  composed  exclusively  of  students  of 
the  Northwestern  University,  and  this  collegiate  crew  has  so  greatly  dis- 
tinguished itself  for  pluck  and  efficiency  that  every  member  wears  the 
government  gold  medal  awarded  for  bravery. 

TWO  WAYS  OF  EESCUE. 

The  rescuing  of  persons  imperiled  by  shipwreck  must  be  done  in  one 
of  two  ways,  either  by  the  life-saving  crews  going  out  to  them  in  surf- 
boats  or  by  firing  a  line  "to  them  from  the  Lyle  gun  invented  for  that 
purpose,  and  then  employing  the  breeches  buoy  to  bring  them  ashore  on 
the  cable  line  thus  made  possible.  Both  methods  were  illustrated  in  the 
world's  fair  exhibit.  The  more  perilous  of  the  two,  from  the  standpoint 
of  the  life-saving  crews,  is  that  in  which  the  surfboat  is  brought  into 
service. 

OUT  WITH  THE  LIFE  BOAT. 

This  is  resorted  to  in  cases  where  the  firing  of  a  life  line  to  the  dis- 
tressed vessel  is  not  practicable.    The  big  surfboat  is  hastened  to  the 


78  U.  S.  Life-Saving  Service 

beach  on  a  wagon  constructed  for  that  purpose.  Its  launching  into  the 
sea  during  a  storm  is  a  very  dangerous  task,  requiring  courage,  strength 
and  skill  of  unusual  order.  The  members  of  the  crew  often  range  them- 
selves on  either  side  of  the  boat  and  force  it  out  through  the  surf,  spring- 
ing into  their  appointed  places  at  the  proper  moment,  as  best  they  can. 
Then  begins  the  terrific  hand-to-hand  battle  with  the  waves  and  wind,  the 
master  oarsmen  bending  themselves  to  the  herculean  task  of  sending  their 
boat  seaward  in  spite  of  the  efforts  of  the  gale  and  billows  to  hurl  it  back 
on  shore,  shattered  and  useless. 

The  surfboat  is  a  mere  cockle-shell  opposed  to  the  furious  elements, 
but  human  skill,  intelligence  and  courage  are  behind  it  and  it  is  commonly 
the  victor  in  such  a  contest,  though  there  are  many  cases  of  failure  and 
disaster  attendant  upon  its  launching.  Once  well  out  from  the  shore, 
however,  the  strain  on  the  men  and  boat  is  comparatively  relaxed. 

METHODS  OP  BATTLING  WITH  THE  ELEMENTS. 

More  often  than  not,  when  a  surfboat  has  successfully  made  its  way 
out  to  a  vessel  in  distress  the  storm  prevents  its  going  directly  to  the  side 
under  the  impulsion  of  the  oars.  In  this  case  the  boat  is  steadied  some 
little  distance  away  and  a  ' '  heaving  stick, ' '  with  a  line  attached,  is  hurled 
to  the  deck  of  the  ship.  A  heavier  line  is  ^'bent  on"  to  this  light  line  by 
the  ship 's  crew  and  drawn  back  to  the  surfboat  by  the  life  savers,  and  the 
surfboat  is  then  cautiously  warped  up  to  the  ship's  side  and  the  work  of 
rescue  begun.  There  have  been  instances  where  life-saving  crews  worked 
continuously  for  24  hours  at  this  perilous  task. 

THE  LYLE  GUN  IN  SERVICE. 

When  a  ship  is  going  to  pieces  near  the  shore,  the  Lyle  gun  is  brought 
into  service.  The  gun-carriage,  or  "gun-cart,"  as  the  life-savers  call  it, 
is  run  down  to  the  water's  edge  and  sometimes  into  the  very  surf  itself. 
The  gun  used  for  this  service  carries  a  projectile  to  which  a  light-weight 
line  is  attached,  the  line  being  reeled  up  on  another  part  of  the  carriage. 
It  is  here  that  the  station  keeper's  gunnery  counts,  for  he  must  so  aim  the 
gun  that  its  projectile  will  pass  directly  over  the  endangered  vessel,  allow- 
ing the  line  to  fall  across  the  deck. 


U.  S.  Life-Saving  Seevice  79 


THE  BEEECHES  BUOY  IN"  ACTION. 


Once  this  is  done,  a  heavy  cable  soon  stretches  from  the  shore  to  the 
ship,  and  along  this  cable,,  by  means  of  a  machine  operated  by  the  life- 
saving  crew,  a  ''breeches  buoy"  is  sent  out  to  the  rescue.  The  breeches 
buoy  is  simply  a  heavy  leather  contrivance  into  which  the  legs  are  slipped 
and  from  which  it  is  impossible  for  one  to  fall.  It  is  run  to  and  fro  along 
the  cable,  which,  being  swung  from  the  crosstrees  on  the  ship's  mast,  per- 
mits the  buoy  to  be  drawn  shoreward,  running  along  the  life  line  on  a 
heavy  pulley,  with  as  little  contact  with  the  surf  as  is  possible  under  storm 
conditions.  In  the  cases  of  panic-stricken  women  or  unconscious  persons, 
the  members  of  the  life-saving  crew  bring  them  ashore,  the  rescuers  using 
the  ''breeches  buoy"  and  bearing  the  rescued  in  their  arms. 

These  and  other  important  features  of  the  service,  including  the 
method  of  resuscitating  apparently  drowned  persons  by  means  of  artificial 
respiration,  the  best  manner  of  swimming  while  bearing  a  body  through 
the  water,  boat  drills,  and  similar  features  of  the  life-saving  service,  were 
shown  at  the  world 's  fair  exhibit.  The  United  States  life-saving  service 
is  one  of  the  most  useful,  yet  least  known,  organizations  under  govern- 
ment direction,  the  details  of  its  work,  picturesque  and  adventurous  to  an 
unusual  degree,  constituting  a  series  of  dramatic  spectacles  that  moved 
beholders  to  enthusiastic  admiration. 

OEIGIN  AND  significance  OF  THE  SEEVICE. 

One  has  only  to  consider  what  the  present  development  of  the  life- 
saving  service  means  to  realize  what  strides  civilization  has  taken  of 
late  years.  While  we  seldom  think  of  it,  few  departures  of  human  en- 
deavor so  fully  illustrate  the  tendency  of  the  times  as  this  governmental 
service,  so  magnificently  demonstrated  at  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Expo- 
sition. 

It  is  only  a  comparatively  brief  period  of  time  since  wreckers  used 
to  light  beacon  fires  along  the  seashore,  particularly  in  dangerous  places, 
not  to  warn  the  imperiled  mariner,  but  to  lure  him  on  to  destruction. 
From  the  wreckage  these  human  vultures  gathered  a  livelihood.  It  was 
a  common  practice  in  England,  Ireland,  Scotland  and  on  the  continent 
of  Europe,  and  such  stories  have  been  related  in  connection  with  early 
seafaring  experiences  when  this  country  was  young. 

It  is  probable  that  the  efforts  of  monks  and  other  members  of  re- 


80  U.  S.  Life-Saving  Seevice 

ligious  orders  in  establishing  bell-bnoys  in  particularly  dangerous  places 
was  the  initial  step  towards  creating  a  life-saving  service— the  nucleus 
around  which  this  exceedingly  humane  department  grew. 

From  this  small  start  developed  a  movement  that  has  been  fostered 
by  every  civilized  nation  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  until  each  has  an  or- 
ganized department  devoted  exclusively  to  the  noble  work  of  minimizing 
the  terrors  of  the  stormy  deep.  It  is  a  source  of  no  small  comfort  to 
Americans  to  realize  that  none  exceeds  in  effectiveness  that  conducted 
by  the  United  States  along  its  ocean  borders  and  the  shores  of  the  Great 
Lakes.  Many  volumes  could  be  written  concerning  the  bravery  shown 
by  the  members  of  the  service  without  exhausting  the  material  afforded 
by  their  unselfish  valor,  as  day  in  and  out,  throughout  the, livelong  year, 
they  battle  with  the  elements  and  against  both  seen  and  unseen  dangers, 
to  grasp  the  victim  of  the  storm  from  the  hungry  waters. 

It  is  well  that  the  Federal  Government  made  possible  this  exhibit  at 
St.  Louis.  Aside  from  the  diversion  and  entertainment  it  contributed, 
every  performance  given  was  a  sermon  in  which  the  principles  of  bravery, 
unselfishness,  devotion  to  duty  and  humanity  were  impressed  upon  all 
thoughtful  beholders  with  silent  eloquence  calculated  to  make  it  a  life 
lesson. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
WORLD'S  FAIR  MUSIC 

Sousa  Sway-backed  with  Medals — Innes  and  His  Band — Big  Filipino  Band — Indian  Mu- 
sicians Hastily  Organized — Complex  Instrumentation  Described — Many  Other  Musical 
Organizations. 

GIDEON'S  is  the  only  band  even  heard  of  that  was  not  engaged  to 
play  at  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition, 
Sousa  was  here— the  same  Sousa  who  ordinarily  received  $2.00  of 
your  money  when  you  heard  his  band  in  a  music  hall.    Here  it  cost  you 
nothing  unless  you  felt  that  you  wanted  to  listen  from  the  comfortable 
vantage  point  of  a  reserved  seat.    Even  then  the  charge  was  nominal. 

SOUSA  SWAY-BACKED  WITH   MEDALS. 

Sousa  looked  well.  He  was  a  little  sway-backed  with  supporting  his 
medals,  but  his  head  did  not  seem  uneasy  from  wearing  the  crown  of  the 
march  king.  He  had  a  band  of  65  pieces,  and  whenever  any  of  the  other 
bands  began  to  win  any  of  his  auditors  he  waved  his  trombones  and  cor- 
nets to  the  front,  levels  these  instruments  over  the  rail  of  the  bandstand, 
and  turned  on  the  ' '  Stars  and  Stripes  Forever, ' '  by  John  Philip  Sousa. 
That's  all. 

INNES  AND  HIS  BAND. 

Innes  was  there— Frederick  Neil  Innes,  a  fine,  chesty  fellow,  who  got 
there  blowing  his  own  horn.  He,  too,  had  enjoyed  his  inning  in  the  $2,00 
class  and  had  filled  Sousa 's  place— actually  filled  it.  There  are  a  good 
many  bandmasters  who  would  only  rattle  around  in  it,  but  it  is  to  be 
remembered  of  Innes  that  he  filled  it.  They  are  both  old  soloists  of 
Patrick  Gilmore  's,  the  Columbus  of  the  modern  American  brass  band, 

William  Weil,  the  St.  Louis  bandmaster,  had  a  band,  the  official  band 
of  the  exposition.  Additionally,  Weil  won  some  fame  by  falling  out  with 
the  union  over  his  world's  fair  contract,  and  paying  a  $1,000  fine  to  the 
organization.  He  afterward  played  "The  Union  Forever"  every  pay 
day. 

81 


82  Woeld's  Fair  Music 


BIG  FILIPINO  BAND. 

There  was  tlie  Filipino  band— the  largest  at  the  fair.  It  had  80  pieces, 
against  65  for  Sousa,  50  for  Innes  and  40  for  Weil.  The  Filipinos  put 
their  80  j)ieces  together  and  make  a  whole— lot  of  music.  Eeally,  they 
were  good.  They  had  temperament.  The  Sousa  and  Innes  bands  lacked 
that  element.    They  had  finish  mostly. 

Then,  there  was  the  Indian  band  at  the  Ethnology  building.  It  hadn't 
any  temperament,  either.  But  it  had  a  finish.  One  could  see  its  finish 
looming  up  the  moment  he  came  within  earshot.  To  escaj)e  having  it 
become  your  finish,  it  was  always  best  to  fly. 

Additionally,  there  were  other  bands,  and  then  some.  There  was  a 
German  band,  an  Irish  band  and  a  wilderness  of  pipes  and  reeds,  for, 
after  arranging  to  get  its  money  back,  the  exposition  went  in  strongest 
for  music. 

You  can  imagine  the  result  of  having  so  many  bands  on  the  grounds. 

It  was  a  battle  royal  of  bands. 

Sousa  could  hold  his  audiences  better  than  any  of  the  rest  of  them. 
This  was  because  Sousa 's  name  was  big.  He  had  written  about  all  the 
marches  except  the  Ides  of  March,  by  a  composer  named  Shakspere. 
Then,  too,  Sousa  was  theatrical  in  method.  He  knew  how  to  marshal  his 
host  to  make  it  effective.  When  he  saw  his  audience  filtering  away,  pre- 
sumably to  hear  Innes,  he  trotted  his  tubes  around  front,  had  them  turned 
upon  the  crowd  like  so  many  cannon,  and  transfixed  the  people  with  a 
torrent  of  tone. 

The  Filipino  musicians  had  an  American  leader.  He  was  proud  of 
them,  and  for  good  reason,  for  it  was  not  only  the  best  Filipino  band  at 
the  fair,  but  a  good  band  at  that,  if  even  now  and  then  there  did  drift  in 
upon  the  Filipino  reservation  the  dulcet  strains  of  Sousa  calming  the 
storm  in  the  overture  from  ''William  Tell." 

INDIAN  MUSICIANS  HASTILY  ORGANIZED. 

The  Indian  band  came  from  the  United  States  of  America— and  no 
less  a  place.  It  came  to  St.  Louis  from  Chicocco,  0.  T.,  but  the  musicians 
simply  assembled  down  there  to  practice  before  they  came  on  to  St.  Louis. 
Of  course,  it  wasn't  very  good  at  first,  and  their  leader  thought  it  would 
be  wise  to  turn  it  loose  on  the  north  edge  of  the  Llano  Estacado  and  let  it 


World's  Fair  Musio  83 

wear  some  of  its  crescendos  down  a  little  before  trying  it  on  the  crowds 
at  St.  Louis. 

No  one  ever  suggested  that  the  American  Indian  might  make  a  musi- 
cian ;  but  he  is  coming.  The  Indian  band  is  a  revelation,  especially  when 
it  falls  on  one  of  its  kith  and  kin  like  "Hiawatha"  or  "Navajo." 

COMPLEX  INSTRUMENTATION   DESCRIBED. 

The  Sousa  and  Innes  bands  are  not  brass  bands.  Do  not  make  the 
mistake  of  calling  them  that.  They  are  concert  bands.  The  Innes  band 
even  has  string  instruments  in  it. 

There  is  an  awful  confusion  of  instruments  in  one  of  these  concert 
bands.    For  instance,  the  Sousa  band  has  an  instrumentation  that  reads : 

Twelve  first  b-flat  clarinets,  four  second  b-flat  clarinets,  two  third 
b-flat  clarinets,  two  e-flat  clarinets,  one  alto  and  one  bass  clarinet,  two 
oboes  interchangeable  with  cor-anglaise  (English)  horns;  two  bassoons, 
four  saxophones,  four  flutes,  interchangeable  piccolos,  six  cornets,  two 
trumpets,  two  fleugelhorns,  two  euphoniums,  interchangeable  with  trom- 
bones; four  trombones,  six  French  horns,  four  tubas,  one  Sousaphone 
and  three  drums. 

The  Innes  band  has  two  flutes,  one  piccolo,  two  oboes,  one  cor-anglaise, 
one  petit  clarinet  in  a-flat,  two  petite  clarinets  in  e-flat,  twelve  first  b-flat 
clarinets,  six  second  b-flat  clarinets,  six  third  b-flat  clarinets,  one  alto, 
one  tenor  and  one  bass  clarinet,  two  bassoons,  five  saxophones,  four 
French  horns,  five  cornets,  two  trumpets,  three  trombones,  two  euphoni- 
ums, one  baritone,  three  tubas,  two  string  basses,  one  harp,  one  tympani 
and  three  drums. 

MANY  OTHER  MUSICAL  ORGANIZATIONS. 

"When  Sousa  was  in  Europe  his  band  was  considered  the  oddest  that 
had  ever  blown  in  upon  the  fountain  places  of  music. 

As  the  season  unfolded  the  bands  poured  in  until  it  was  well  nigh  im- 
possible to  keep  track  of  their  number.  The  famous  Garde  Eepublicaine 
band  came  from  Paris,  and  fine  bands  from  England  and  other  countries. 
Eegimental  bands,  state  bands  and  government  bands,  too,  filled  the  air 
with  harmony.  With  three  or  four  free  band  concerts  afternoon  and 
evening,  in  the  spacious  plazas  reserved  for  that  purpose,  directed  by 
the  masters  of  the  profession  throughout  the  world,  the  fair  afforded 
indeed  a  feast  of  melody. 


84  Woeld's  Faie  Music 

Musical  people  and  all  who  appreciate  good  music  may  tliank  the 
world's  fair  for  three  notable  compositions,  written  upon  the  invitation 
of  the  exposition  management.  These  are  the  ''Hymn  of  the  West,"  by 
the  American  poet,  Edmund  Clarence  Stedman,  the  music  for  which  was 
written  by  Prof.  John  K.  Paine,  who  is  at  the  head  of  the  music  depart- 
ment of  Harvard  University;  ''Louisiana,"  a  march  by  Frank  Vander- 
stuken,  leader  of  the  Cincinnati  orchestra,  and  a  waltz,  "Along  the 
Plaza,"  by  Henry  K.  Hadley,  of  New  York,  who  had  won  his  laurels 
long  before  this  as  a  writer  of  operatic  and  other  musical  compositions. 
This  music  was  heard  publicly  for  the  first  time  upon  the  opening  of 
the  exposition,  Saturday,  April  30,  and  frequently  thereafter  in  the 
musical  programs  of  the  greatest  of  world's  fairs.  These  are  the  only 
official  compositions,  and  were  published  under  direction  of  the  Bureau 
of  Music  of  the  world 's  fair. 

Thirty  thousand  dollars  was  given  in  prizes  for  the  best  bands  at  a 
tournament  held  during  the  exposition.  All  through  the  world's  fair, 
the  musical  feature  being  prominent,  the  most  famous  bands  of  the 
world  were  placed  under  contract  to  participate  during  considerable 
periods,  contributing  in  no  small  degree  both  to  the  charm  and  the 
educational  value  of  the  exposition. 


CHAPTER  V. 
QUEEN  VICTORIA'S  JUBILEE  PRESENTS 

Dazzling  Arrays  of  Wealth — Will  Never  Be  Exhibited  Again — From  India,  Ceylon  and 
South  Africa — Clock  Case  of  a  Tiger's  Skull — Gift  of  the  Chinese  Emperor — 
Maharajah's  Lavish  Gifts  Beggar  Description — Royal  Chair  of  State — Worth  More 
Than  Weight  in  Gold — Gold  Caskets  Loaded  with  Gems — The  Astors  Couldn't  Buy 
One  Casket — ^Precautions  Against  Loss  or  Theft. 

ALADDIN  with  his  wonderful  lamp  could  not  have  conjured  up 
so  much  wealth  as  is  represented  in  the  Jubilee  presents  to  Queen 
Victoria,  on  exhibition  in  the  Hall  of  Congress,  immediately  in  the  rear 
of  the  Administration  building,  at  the  world's  fair,  and  forming  one  of 
the  most  interesting  displays  made  by  Great  Britain. 

Combined  the  presents  represent  a  value  beyond  estimation.  The 
most  daring  of  men  in  estimating  values  would  shrink  from  hazarding 
even  an  approximate  guess  on  them.  The  dazzling  array  of  jeweled 
boxes  and  caskets  and  cylinders  alone  stifle  the  mind  when  one  thinks 
of  the  probable  cost. 

They  came  mostly  from  the  loyal  subjects  of  the  late  Queen  of  Eng- 
land in  commemoration  of  her  jubilee,  and  there  is  not  another  article 
like  the  one  on  exhibit  anywhere  in  the  known  world.  There  are  examples 
in  silver  and  gold  working  that  can  not  be  duplicated.  There  are  speci- 
mens of  boxes  and  caskets  that  required  years  of  painstaking  care  to 
execute,  and  others  of  ivory  that  could  not  be  reproduced  because  of 
their  size.  The  width  of  some  of  these  boxes  causes  one  to  speculate 
on  the  huge  tusks  necessary  to  produce  such  a  board  of  ivory. 

DAZZLING   AEKAY   OF    WEALTH. 

The  presents  are  arranged  in  glass  cases  and  each  has  a  small  printed 
card  explaining  what  it  is  and  by  whom  sent  to  the  Queen.  Upon  the 
walls  are  hung  in  frames  addresses  of  the  people  and  rulers  as  well  as 
commercial  bodies  and  municipalities  of  the  world,  to  the  Queen.  There 
were  three  stalwart  ' '  bobbies, ' '  the  pick  of  the  London  police  force,  al- 

85 


86  Queen  Victoria's  Jubilee  Peesents 

ways  on  guard,  to  say  nothing  of  a  half  dozen  Jefferson  Guards,  and 
William  W.  Forster,  who  was  in  charge  of  the  exhibit,  was  there,  too, 
from  early  morning  to  late  at  night.  At  the  door  downstairs  was  a  Jef- 
ferson Guard  to  further  protect  the  priceless  exhibit. 

WILL  NEVER  BE  EXHIBITED  AGAIN. 

After  the  fair  the  presents  will  be  distributed  among  the  palaces  of 
King  Edward  and  will  never  be  shown  again. 

It  would  be  impossible  to  give  a  description  of  all  the  presents  in  the 
exhibit,  but  here  are  a  few : 

There  is  a  worsted  box  containing  two  Indian  shawls  from  the  Vichar 
Sabha  Ahluwalain  of  Eawal  Pindi,  Punjab,  that  is  one  of  the  marvels 
of  weaving.    The  shawls  are  of  the  finest  India  produces. 

There  is  a  casket  trimmed  with  gold  from  the  municipality  of  Bom- 
bay, and  another  casket  inlaid  with  silver  and  gold  and  precious  stones 
containing  the  address  of  the  Kajah  of  Babfili.  Another  casket  is  of  sil- 
ver fiiligree  of  marvelous  workmanship  from  Sir  Luchmessur  Sing  B'aba- 
door,  Maharajah  of  Durbhangan. 

FROM  INDIA,  CEYLON  AND  SOUTH  AFRICA. 

From  the  Council  of  Ceylon  comes  an  ivory  box  with  trimmings  of 
gold  and  set  in  rows  of  pearls  and  studded  with  rubies,  emeralds  and 
sapphires.  From  35,000  British  subjects  in  the  Rand  gold  district  is 
sent  a  gold  plaque  with  ''Victoria  R.  I.,"  set  in  the  finest  of  diamonds, 
and  from  Australia  is  an  ebony  box  resting  on  gold  nuggets  which  also 
surround  the  imperial  crown  of  thread  gold. 

CLOCK  CASE  OP  A  TIGER ^S  SKULL. 

One  of  the  striking  presents  is  that  sent  by  the  Prime  Minister  of 
Hyderabad.  It  is  the  skull  of  a  tiger  trimmed  in  gold,  with  a  clock  and 
a  chronometer  in  the  sides.  Highly  polished  tiger  claws  trimmed  with 
gold  are  resting  on  the  velvet  stand  supporting  the  skull,  and  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  skull  is  the  greeting  engraven  on  a  heart  of  pure  gold. 

CREATIONS  FROM  HUGE  TUSKS. 

The  people  of  Kimberly  forwarded  an  ivory  casket  trimmed  with  gold 
and  studded  with  diamonds.  The  size  of  the  sides  and  top  and  bottom 
of  the  casket  shows  how  enormous  must  have  been  the  tusks  from  which 


Queen  Victoeia's  Jubilee  Presents  87 

they  were  made.    This  casket  could  not  be  duplicated,  as  in  all  probability 
such  tusks  are  now  nowhere  to  be  found  in  the  world. 

The  inhabitants  of  Ceylon  sent  their  address  in  a  delicately  wrought 
silver  cylinder,  the  work  of  which  required  years  of  patient  toil,  and  rep- 
resents the  highest  art  of  the  silversmith.  It  is  supported  by  the  tusks 
of  three  silver  elephants,  each  of  which  is  wrought  in  the  high  workman- 
ship characteristic  of  the  cylinder. 

GIFT  OF  THE  CHINESE  EMPEROR. 

The  Emperor  of  China  sent  a  scepter  of  jade,  the  engraving  of  which 
required  years  to  execute,  and  it  is  pronounced  the  most  perfect  bit  of 
this  remarkable  artistic  work  ever  produced.  It  typifies  long  life,  sta- 
bility and  immutability. 

He  also  sent  a  lump  of  jade,  upon  one  side  of  which  is  engraved  a 
typical  Chinese  scene.  The  two  are  marvels  of  Chinese  workmanship, 
and,  it  is  said,  could  not  be  duplicated.  There  is  also  a  Chinese  plate  of 
the  finest  porcelain,  in  four  different  colors,  and  it  is  roughly  estimated 
as  worth  more  than  $6,000.  Such  work  is  no  longer  done  in  China,  so 
that  it  is  impossible  of  duplication. 

WONDERFUL  SILVER  AND  IVORY  WORK. 

There  is  a  gold  cylinder,  wrought  in  filigree  and  studded  with  precious 
stones,  resting  upon  two  ivory  elephants  that  are  exquisitely  carved,  that 
came  from  the  Thakore  of  Morvi,  the  Thakore  of  Limri  and  the  Thakore 
Sahib  of  Gondal.  This  is  pronounced  one  of  the  most  artistic  bits  of 
silver  and  ivory  work  in  the  world. 

Maharajah's  lavish  gifts  beggar  description. 

The  Maharajah  of  Travancore,  who  is  one  of  the  most  powerful  of 
the  Indian  princes  and  whose  wealth  is  fabulous,  was  most  lavish  in  his 
gifts  to  Queen  Victoria.  One  is  a  pair  of  tusks  of  the  finest  polished 
ivory,  and  they  are  said  to  be  the  largest  tusks  in  the  world.  They  are 
supported  by  the  head  of  a  buffalo  in  ebony,  artistically  carded.  There 
is  another  pair  of  tusks  trimmed  in  pure  gold,  representing  the  lotus  leaf, 
and  the  base  is  composed  of  the  bare  teeth  of  the  elephant,  supported  by 
ebony  wood  carvings  of  an  elephant,  and  the  whole  is  sprinkled  with 
precious  stones. 


88  Queen  Victoeia's  Jubilee  PEESEiifTS 

KOYAL  CHAIR  OF  STATE. 

His  third  gift  was  a  chair  of  state,  the  like  of  which  has  never  been 
produced  before,  and  which  brings  to  one  the  realization  of  the  wealth 
of  India.  It  is  of  carved  ivory,  with  truss-shaped  legs  of  ivory,  and  lions ' 
paws  in  ivory  as  the  feet.  There  is  an  ivory  scroll,  representing  foliage, 
and  there  are  two  ivory  lions,  whose  eyes  are  huge  diamonds.  The  foot- 
stool is  of  ivory,  trimmed  with  pure  gold,  and  the  kneeling  cushion  is  of 
the  finest  texture,  trimmed  with  gold.  Words  can  convey  no  idea  of  the 
magnificence  of  this  gift.    Its  value  is  fabulous. 

ROYAL  ELEPHANT  SADDLES. 

The  municipality  of  Darjecling  sent  a  silver  prayer  wheel,  the  work- 
manship of  which  is  most  delicate,  representing  the  highest  art  of  the 
Indian  worker  in  silver. 

Here  are  also  shown  gorgeous  saddles  for  elephants  presented  by  sev- 
eral Indian  princes  to  the  present  King  of  England  when  he  made  his  tour 
of  India  thirty  years  ago.  These  saddles  are  considered  the  finest  ever 
produced,  and  for  elegance  and  magnificence  can  not  be  equaled.  They 
are  shown  in  the  exhibit  as  an  example  of  the  workmanship  of  the  men  of 
India  in  cloth.  They  are  emblazoned  with  the  royal  coat  of  arms  and  as 
a  whole  give  one  an  idea  of  the  perfect  workmanship  of  the  East  Indians 
as  well  as  points  in  gorgeously  artistic  decorations. 

Prom  the  farmers  and  women  of  Cape  Colony  came  a  gigantic  screen 
of  ostrich  feathers.  This  screen  is  composed  of  pure  white  feathers  and 
is  about  5  feet  across  and  6  feet  in  length.  Its  value  is  almost  beyond 
competition.  There  are  shown  with  it  three  enormous  screens  of  peacock 
feathers  that  for  beauty  probably  can  not  be  duplicated. 

WORTH  MORE  THAN  WEIGHT  IN  GOLD. 

There  is  almost  an  inexhaustible  array  of  caskets  containing  addresses 
from  Indian  princes  and  rulers  and  municipalities.  Many  of  these  are 
of  ivory  or  ebony  wrought  with  pure  gold  or  silver  trimmings  and  stud- 
ded with  diamonds  of  rare  brilliancy  or  with  rubies,  emeralds  and  sap- 
phires. Each  of  these  is  worth  far  more  than  its  weight  in  gold.  The 
diamonds  alone  are  of  the  purest  character  and  were  specially  selected  by 
experts.  There  is  one  casket  that  contains  the  monogram  of  the  late 
Queen  in  diamonds  of  four  different  shades —green,  slate,  white  and  pink. 


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Queen  Victoeia's  Jubilee  Peesents  97 

The  Chamber  of  Commerce  of  Singapore  sent  a  silver  case  set  with 
gems  containing  its  address. 

Lady  Broomfield  of  England  sent  to  the  Queen  a  bust  of  the  Prince 
Consort  in  ivory.  The  bust  is  nearly  a  foot  in  height  and  nearly  a  foot 
in  circumference,  showing  that  the  tusk  from  which  it  was  made  must 
have  been  enormous.  The  carving  is  perfect,  and,  indeed,  the  late  Queen 
is  said  to  have  considered  it  the  most  perfect  likeness  of  Prince  Albert 
that  has  been  made. 

GOLD  CASKETS  LOADED  WITH  GEMS. 

The  city  of  Toronto  sent  a  gold  and  silver  casket  studded  with  precious 
stones,  containing  the  address,  and  there  are  innumerable  other  gold 
caskets  from  all  parts  of  the  British  Empire  that  are  fairly  loaded  with 
gems.  The  carving  on  some  of  the  caskets  is  marvelous,  and  each  is 
worth  a  study  by  any  one  interested  in  art  in  gold  working. 

On  many  of  the  caskets  and  boxes  the  imperial  crown  is  of  gold,  stud- 
ded with  the  purest  of  diamonds,  making  the  crown  alone  worth  thou- 
sands of  dollars.  The  cylinders  containing  addresses  from  various  com- 
mercial bodies  are  often  of  pure  gold,  handsomely  carved,  and  the  filigree 
work  of  others  is  so  delicate  as  to  appear  as  spider  webs. 

The  lavish  display  of  gems  in  the  various  presents  is  what  will  first 
attract  public  attention.  You  couldn  't  find  such  diamonds  and  rubies  and 
emeralds  and  sapphires  in  all  of  Maiden  Lane,  New  York,  where  are  the 
jewelers  and  gem  sellers  of  the  Western  world.  The  caskets  of  pure  gold 
are  frequently  trimmed  with  rows  of  pearls  of  purest  character  and 
studded  with  diamonds,  making  a  single  exhibit  worth  thousands  of  dol- 
lars. 

AKTICLES  NEVEK  TO  BE  REPRODUCED. 

The  ivory  that  has  been  used  by  the  princes  of  India  is  alone  of  ines- 
timable value,  and  the  carvings  in  many  instances  could  not  be  duplicated, 
and  in  others  would  not  be,  the  ruler  presenting  the  gift  seeing  to  it  that 
it  is  not  reproduced  either  in  whole  or  in  part.  There  was  never  anything 
like  it,  and  there  will  never  be  its  like  again.  It  is  this  one  fact  that  fre- 
quently makes  a  gift  of  priceless  value. 

There  is  a  Damascened  gold  and  silver  casket  studded  with  gems, 
from  the  journalists  and  publishers  of  the  Punjab,  that  is  also  of  great 
value,  and  the  workmanship  of  unequaled  beauty  and  artistic  design. 


98  Queen  Yictoeia's  Jubilee  Peesents 

deceptive  antique  effect. 

In  mucli  of  the  work  by  the  people  of  India  there  is  seemingly  a  crude- 
ness.  This  is  because  frequently  a  gold  or  silver  casket  or  box  seems  to 
be  old  and  battered,  but  that  is  a  distinctive  bit  of  their  art.  One  huge 
gold  casket,  set  with  gems,  has  a  broken  hinge ;  it  is  dented  here  and  there 
as  if  some  heavy  case  had  fallen  upon  it  or  it  had  been  dropped  and  trod- 
den upon.  However,  that  was  the  artist's  own  conception,  and  every  dent 
was  faithfully  worked  in  and  the  broken  hinge  is  a  part  of  the  study  of 
the  maker. 

THE  ASTOES  COULDn't  BUY  ONE  CASKET. 

There  is  one  casket  from  an  Indian  Prince  that  is  of  carved  ivory 
scroll  with  rows  of  purest  pearls  along  the  edge  of  the  cover,  and  crossing 
the  cover  in  the  form  of  the  letter  X  are  two  rows  of  gems,  including  dia- 
monds, emeralds,  rubies,  sapphires  and  other  precious  stones.  The  pearls 
alone  would  require  the  fortune  of  the  Astors  to  own,  to  say  nothing  of 
the  other  gems  used  solely  in  the  decoration  of  the  casket,  which,  being 
of  carved  ivory,  is  itself  worth  an  enormous  sum  of  money. 

In  caskets  and  boxes  ebony  and  native  woods  have  been  very  largely 
used.  Sometimes  they  are  perfectly  plain  and  sometimes  magnificently 
carved;  sometimes  they  are  studded  with  gems  of  rarity  and  then  only 
with  gold. 

There  is  one  small  box,  not.  more  than  six  inches  in  length  by  two 
inches  in  height  and  four  inches  in  width,  that  is  of  pure  gold  and  almost 
solid,  there  being  within  only  a  small  space  for  the  address  to  the  Queen. 
There  is  another  box  of  about  the  same  dimensions  that  is  handsomely 
carved  and  with  a  large  crown  set  with  purest  diamonds,  while  there  are 
two  rows  of  pure  pearls  used  in  the  decoration  of  another.  In  the  sup- 
ports of  one  cylinder  are  three  elephants  of  carved  ivory,  with  the  cloth 
engraven  upon  each,  and  the  eyes  are  of  rubies.  And  in  the  decoration 
of  another  casket  are  tigers  in  gold  with  diamonds  for  eyes. 

PRECAUTION  AGAINST  LOSS  OR  THEFT. 

Of  course,  it  is  understood  that  not  all  of  the  presents  sent  to  Queen 
Victoria  for  her  jubilees  in  1887  and  1897  were  in  the  exhibit  at  the 
world's  fair.  This  would  be  an  impossibility,  as  all  of  them  would 
alone  require  an  immense  building.  The  exhibit,  however,  contained 
the  cream  of  the  gifts  and  was  the  same  as  shown  in  Toronto,  coming 


Queen  Victoeia's  Jubilee  Peesents  99 

to  St.  Louis  from  the  Canadian  city.    While  awaiting  the  opening  of 
the  fair  it  was  strongly  guarded  in  safety  deposit  vaults. 

At  the  exposition  the  utmost  care  was  taken  with  the  exhibit,  and 
every  case  securely  locked  while  the  guards  carefully  watched  every  vis- 
itor, regardless  of  who  he  or  she  might  be.  Such  precautions  were  ab- 
solutely necessary,  remembering  the  fabulous  value.  The  building  was 
thoroughly  fireproof  and  Colonel  Watson  was  himself  responsible  for 
the  safety  of  the  collection, 

THE  ILL-LUCK  OMEN  COUNTERACTED. 

Most  superstitious  women  would  have  worried  had  they  been  in  the 
position  of  W.  Forster,  custodian  of  the  jubilee  presents.  Peacock  feath- 
ers are  said  to  be  such  omens  of  ill  luck.  Perhaps  the  fact  that  they 
were  glass  covered  saved  them  from  bringing  any  ill  fortune  upon  the 
exhibit.  Most  women  who  have  homes  looked  with  a  bit  of  envy  upon 
the  tiger  chains  of  King  Edward.  They  were  suspended  in  the  same  case 
with  the  saddles  and  mountings  presented  to  him  when  he  visited  India 
thirty  years  ago.  Those  same  tiger  chains  would  make  the  finest  curtain 
chains.    They  are  of  silver  links,  rectangular  shaped. 

A  gold  calabash  from  the  Gold  Coast  of  Africa  proved  a  delightful  ex- 
ample of  the  grotesque  in  art.  It  is  like  a  large  flat  gourd.  On  its  top  is 
carved  the  figure  of  a  bird,  not  the  kind  of  birds  that  fly  here  or  anywhere 
else— a  weird  bird  that  looks  as  if  it  had  seen  bird  ghosts.  Belov/  is  a 
frog,  still  in  something  like  the  tadpole  stage.  The  ideas  in  carving  are 
those  of  the  people  who  live  on  that  Gold  Coast. 

All  those  bom  in  December  stood  long  in  admiration  before  the  cups 
and  vases  of  silver  set  with  turquoises.  The  vases  are  tall  and  have  slen- 
der necks,  and  hanging  from  their  handles  are  silver  chains.  Scattered 
over  the  vases  and  the  cups  are  turquoises,  just  as  if  they  were  part  of 
the  silver  of  which  the  articles  are  made. 

In  the  same  case  was  a  fine  signal  trumpet  made  of  ivory  with  gold 
mountings  and  a  cord  and  tassels  of  many  colors. 

Near  the  signal  trumpet  were  three  silver  elephants  fully  caparisoned 
and  with  jewels  set  in  their  foreheads. 

WONDERFUL   GOLD   SPECIMENS. 

In  the  "gold"  case,  called  so  because  it  contained  gold  from  the  dif- 
ferent mines  of  the  world,  were  two  remarkable  pieces  from  the  richest 


100  Queen  Victokia's  Jubilee  Presents 

gold  mines  known— the  Band  in  the  Transvaal  and  the  mines  of  western 
Australia.  One  was  a  dear  little  box  made  of  30  nuggets  of  fine  gold.  Its 
border  is  a  wreath  of  shamrocks,  roses  and  thistles  made  in  fine  gold.  The 
roses  are  delicately  leaved  and  the  shamrock  looks  well  in  gold,  while  the 
thistle  points  are  sharp. 

The  ' '  tiger  head ' '  inkstand  is  a  useful  thing  that  tells  time  and  gives 
barometric  reports  at  the  same  time.  It  is  made  of  the  skull  of  a  tiger. 
One  eye  is  set  with  a  clock,  the  other  with  a  barometer.  The  teeth  of  the 
skull  close  the  inkstand.  When  they  are  opened  in  the  place  of  the  tongue 
is  the  inkstand,  symbolical  of  the  fact  that  it,  too,  can  make  words. 

The  ivory  writing  case  and  workbox  is  womanish.  In  it  is  a  thimble 
of  gold  and  golden  scissors,  suggesting  the  fact  that  Queen  Victoria  was 
first  of  all  a  woman.  She  was  very  fond  of  the  spice  box  with  its  six  com- 
partments, inkstands  and  scent  inhaler,  all  made  of  gold  and  silver  and 
queerly  shaped. 

All  in  all.  Queen  Victoria's  Jubilee  Presents  were  far  more  than  a 
Seven  Days'  Wonder,  They  not  only  were  a  continuous  cause  for  ad- 
miration and  astonishment  during  the  season  of  the  exposition,  but  were 
a  speaking  evidence  of  the  boundless  hoarded  wealth  of  the  Indies  and 
the  natural  taste  and  patience  of  her  native  workers.  Such  wealth  at  the 
effective  disposal  of  the  energetic,  practical  Caucasian  would  advance  the 
entire  world  of  finance,  commerce  and  industry. 


CHAPTER  VI. 
GIANTS  AT  THE,  E,XPOSITION 

Patagonians  Make  Long  Journey — Show  Fondness  for  Whisky — Are  Wonderful  Horsemen 
— Were  Never  Conquered — Spaniards  First  Brought  Horses — Have  No  Historic  Tra- 
ditions— Women  Flee  from  Men's  Orgies — Marvelous  Use  of  the  Bolas. 

THE  giant  has  always  had  a  place  in  legends  and  literature.     No 
other  member  of  the  human  family,  the  world  over,  has  so  readily 
lent  himself  to  the  imagination  of  humankind. 

But  never  until  now  has  the  giant  had  a  place  at  a  world's  fair.  This 
is  due  to  the  fact  that  there  is  but  one  race  of  giants  in  the  world— the 
Tehuelche  Indians  of  Patagonia,  at  the  extreme  southern  end  of  South 
America,  and  because  never  until  now  did  any  white  man  enjoy  the  con- 
fidence of  these  big  barbarians  to  such  an  extent  that  he  could  induce 
them  to  leave  the  wilderness  in  which  they  live. 

PATAGONIANS   MAKE   LONG  JOURNEY. 

The  Patagonian  giants— five  of  them — together  with  one  woman,  one 
child  and  a  very  small  dog,  arrived  at  the  world's  fair  grounds  after  a 
journey  of  more  than  10,000  miles. 

Like  other  world's  fair  notables,  the  Patagonians  were  early  subjected 
to  the  tortures  of  photography,  and,  while  they  enjoyed  the  novelty  for 
awhile,  they  grew  tired  of  it  in  the  end,  with  the  result  that  Mulatto,  the 
big  chief,  took  decisive  action  and  put  his  foot  down  on  cameras. 
This  is  a  literal  statement,  too,  for  one  overzealous  photographer  tried  to 
take  a  picture  of  the  chief  against  his  will  and  the  chief  promptly  assailed 
the  picture  machine. 

SHOW  FONDNESS  EOR  WHISKY. 

They  assume  a  sitting  posture  most  of  the  time,  smoke  tobacco  in  pipes 
and  do  not  talk  much.  One  of  them  smiles  occasionally,  but  the  solemn 
expression  on  the  countenances  of  the  others  seldom  change. 

The  wife  of  the  big  chief  is  a  study.  Upon  getting  settled  in  her  new 
quarters  she  smoked  her  pipe  and  quite  frequently  availed  herself  of  a 
bottle  of  Kentucky  bourbon.  The  Patagonians  like  whisky  quite  as  well 
as  some  members  of  the  Caucasian  race,  and  it  has  the  same  effect  upon 
them  as  is  noticed  in  the  North  American  Indian. 

101 


102  Giants  at  the  Exposition 

When  the  Patagonian  gets  his  fill  of  liquor  he  is  in  a  fighting  mood, 
and  woe  nnto  the  photographer  who  tries  to  photograph  him. 

The  Patagonian  giants  at  the  world's  fair  were  secured  in  the  Terri- 
troy  of  de  Santa  Cruz,  in  the  Argentine  Eepublic. 

They  follow  farming  to  some  extent,  but  spend  most  of  their  time 
hunting  and  fishing  and  training  wild  horses.  The  giants  are  expert 
horsemen  and  it  is  said  that  the  average  Patagonian  can  ride  the  wildest 
horse  that  was  ever  found  in  South  America. 

ARE  WONDERFUL  HORSEMEN. 

Before  the  Patagonians  agreed  to  come  to  the  world's  fair  they  ex- 
acted a  promise  that  they  should  be  given  horses  to  ride.  As  an  extra 
inducement  the  exposition  representative  said  he  would  provide  them 
with  white  horses. 

Garbed  in  skins  and  blankets,  the  Patagonians  were  interesting,  and 
Professor  W.  J.  McGee,  who  was  in  charge  of  the  Anthropological  De- 
partment of  the  fair,  said  that  the  giants  were  one  of  the  most  satis- 
factor}^  exhibits  of  his  section. 

Patagone,  meaning  big  feet,  is  the  word  from  which  they  take  their 
name.  It  is  a  misnomer  and  is  due  to  an  amusing  mistake  made  by  early 
European  visitors.  The  latter  seeing  the  big  skin  shoes  they  wear  in 
cold  weather  thought  the  foot  coverings  nature 's  gift,  and  so  named  them. 

WERE    NEVER   CONQUERED. 

The  Patagonians  were  the  most  stubborn  of  all  the  wild  people  en- 
countered by  the  Spanish  conquistidores,  and  were  never  conquered.  One 
of  their  forms  of  punishment  is  to  cut  off  the  soles  of  the  feet,  a  custom 
which  also  obtained  in  Persia  in  early  times.  The  average  height  of  the 
tribe  in  the  Chico  valley,  where  they  are  tallest,  is  between  6  feet  3  inches 
and  6  feet  4  inches.  It  is  customary  to  drink  the  blood  of  a  horse  at  Pat- 
agonion  Indian  weddings.  Formerly  human  sacrifices  were  made  at  wed- 
ding feasts.  They  formerly  used  the  bow  and  arrow,  but  the  bolas  long 
ago  supplanted  these,  and  now  a  bow  and  arrow  are  never  seen  among 
them. 

Childless  women  of  the  tribe  formally  and  publicly  adopt  some  crea- 
ture upon  which  to  lavish  their  affection.  It  is  generally  a  little  dog. 
Their  only  musical  instrument  is  a  sort  of  flute  made  of  a  bone.  They 
are  great  people  to  paint  themselves,  which  they  do  for  show  and  also 
for  protection  from  mosquitoes,  which  are  a  great  pest  in  their  country. 


Giants  at  the  Exposition  103 

spaniards  fiest  beought  hoeses. 

Though  there  were  no  horses  in  Patagonia  until  the  Spaniards 
brought  them,  the  Indians  have  no  legends  of  a  time  when  they  were  not 
horsemen.  Formerly,  any  Patagonian  whose  luck  was  bad,  was  priv- 
ileged to  slay  any  old  woman  in  the  tribe  whom  he  regarded  as  being 
possessed  of  the  devils  that  discomfited  him.  Tehuelche  children  are  not 
supposed  to  wear  clothes  until  they  are  6  or  7  years  old,  even  in  winter, 
and  the  winters  are  quite  cold  in  that  part  of  Patagonia  where  they  live. 

The  peculiar  manner  in  which  the  Indians  dress  in  cold  weather,  with 
great  hoods  of  guanaco  skin  covering  their  heads,  make  them  seem  much 
more  gigantic  than  they  are.  The  region  inhabited  by  the  Tehuelches 
extends  northward  from  the  Strait  of  Magellan  along  the  western  border 
of  that  part  of  the  country  adjacent  to  the  Atlantic  coast. 

It  is  estimated  that  there  are  now  but  500  Tehuelche  Indians  in  Pata- 
gonia, though  earlier  travelers  counted  as  many  as  5,000  of  them.  Epi- 
demics have  greatly  reduced  their  numbers. 

When  a  Patagonian  goes  into  mourning  for  the  loss  of  a  friend  or  a 
relative,  he  burns  all  he  possesses.  The  Patagonian  woman  sews  with  bone 
needles,  and  her  thread  is  the  dried  sinew  of  the  guanaco.  The  dead  are 
always  buried  in  a  sitting  posture,  as  were  the  clitf  dwellers  of  the  south- 
western United  States.  Their  evil  spirit  is  the  lizard,  and  they  propitiate 
their  saurian  satan  by  offering  a  horse  as  a  burnt  sacrifice.  Their  primi- 
tive armament  consists  of  a  long  spear  and  a  skin  buckler  covered  with 
metal  and  shell  ornaments. 

HAVE  NO   HISTOEIC  TRADITIONS. 

They  have  no  historic  traditions,  and  their  oral  records  go  no  further 
back  than  their  first  meeting  with  Europeans.  All  Tehuelches  like  to 
have  long  hair,  and  the  women  oftentimes  lengthen  their  braids  with 
horse-hair  switches.  Patagonian  babies  are  rarely  seen.  It  is  because  of 
their  lack  of  love  for  children  and  the  epidemics  that  oftentimes  sweep 
through  their  villages  that  they  have  almost  become  extinct. 

The  natives  of  Patagonia  make  their  clothes  of  the  skins  of  the  guana- 
co, sometimes  called  the  South  American  camel,  because  it  can  go  for  daj^s 
without  water.    The  Indians  capture  some  300,000  of  them  every  year. 

It  is  said  that  they  were  the  first  Indians  in  South  America  to  ap- 
preciate the  value  of  horses,  and  that  they  reached  the  height  of  their 


104  Giants  at  the  Exposition 

power  soon  after  the  Spaniards  brought  horses  from  Europe  and  the 
Patagonian  brave  was  enabled  to  ride  against  the  wild  footmen  who  were 
his  foes. 

WOMEN  FLEE  FROM  MEN 's  OEGIES. 

When  the  Patagonian  men  decide  to  have  a  festival,  the  women  and 
children  of  the  tribe  take  all  the  weapons,  war  clubs,  etc.,  and  steal  away 
into  some  gorge,  where  they  remain  in  hiding  until  the  men  have  done 
with  their  drunken  orgies.  Otherwise,  the  braves  would  kill  all  the  weaker 
members  of  the  tribe  and  would  fall  upon  each  other.  The  Patagonian 
horsemen  of  the  plains  are  said  to  be  nearer  living  Centaurs  than  any 
other  riders  on  earth.  They  have  beautiful  horses,  and  when  they  ride  at 
full  speed,  with  their  bronze  bodies  sitting  their  mounts  as  though  a 
part  of  them,  and  their  long  black  hair  streaming  out  behind,  they  are 
beautiful  specimens  of  the  wild  cavalier. 

MARVELOUS  USE  OF  THE  BOLAS. 

The  expertness  of  Patagonians  in  throwing  the  bolas  while  riding 
at  full  speed  has  astonished  foreigners  who  have  penetrated  into  their 
country.  Sometimes  they  can  make  a  cast  for  as  great  a  distance  as  100 
yards  and  bring  down  a  flying  deer,  guanaco,  wild  horse  or  rhea.  AYhen 
they  wish  to  catch  the  creature  alive  they  use  wooden  balls  on  the  strings 
instead  of  stones. 

The  Patagonian  bolas  is  one  of  the  most  effective  weapons  ever  de- 
vised by  a  primitive  people.  It  consists  of  two  round  stones  attached  to 
opposite  ends  of  a  leather  string,  or  thong.  The  native  catches  one  of 
these  in  his  hand  and  whirls  the  other  about  his  head,  finally  launching 
it  with  great  speed  and  accuracy.  Whatever  it  strikes  it  coils  around, 
and  the  stones  will  break  the  leg  of  a  deer  or  rhea  (South  American  os- 
trich), and  even  a  man,  while  the  strings  will  bind  and  throw  a  running 
horse.    Sometimes  the  bolas  has  three  stones  instead  of  two. 

The  Patagonian  attitude  toward  the  mother-in-law  was  in  former 
days  far  from  the  joke  with  which  this  member  of  society  is  regarded 
among  civilized  peoples  today.  The  mother-in-law  was  held  accountable 
for  the  death  of  any  member  of  the  family,  and  her  son-in-law  was  com- 
pelled, whether  he  would  or  no,  to  take  her  out  into  some  secret  place  and 
dispatch  her  with  a  knife.  This  duty  was  sternly  exacted  by  the  chief 
of  the  tribe. 


CHAPTER  VII. 
WONDERS  OF  THE  GLORIOUS  PIKE 

A  Cosmopolitan  Gathering — Like  a  Hasty  Flight  Abroad — Gazing  Down  Into  Cairo — 
The  Sim-a-la-la  Man — Clever  Curbstone  Orators — An  Oriental  Mystery — Adieu  to  the 
Dancing  Girls — What  It  Costs  to  See  the  Pike — Imperial  Russian  Opera  Troupe 
— Snake  Charmers — The  Cliff  Dwellers — Cingalese  Devil  Dancers — Spain  and  Paris — 
With  the  Eskimo  Tribesmen. 

WE  ARE  on  the  grand  old  Pike  at  last,  sitting  in  the  International 
cafe. 

Adown  the  Pike  comes  a  babble  of  strange  tongues,  the  sound  of  un- 
familiar instruments,  the  noise  of  many  bands,  the  roar  of  animals  from 
many  climes,  the  voice  of  ^* barkers"  descanting  upon  the  various  en- 
tertainments along  this  great  cosmopolitan  thoroughfare,  the  tramp  of 
countless  feet  and  the  indescribable  din  that  only  thousands  hastily 
thrown  together  from  all  parts  of  the  globe  could  make  in  the  exulta- 
tion of  a  play  day,  free  from  all  restraint. 

At  the  next  table  sits  a  grim  old  Sioux  warrior  in  all  the  glory  of 
paint  and  feathers.  Beside  him  is  a  Boer,  resting  after  the  performance 
at  the  South  African  Concession.  A  giant  negro  in  the  habiliments  of 
the  African  desert  makes  up  the  third  member  of  this  strange  group. 

A   COSMOPOLITAN    GATHERHsTG. 

Near  at  hand  are  a  dozen  young  women  from  the  Russian  village  op- 
posite, who  have  run  in  to  rest  a  moment  before  their  next  show.  Robust, 
swarthy  of  face  and  in  the  gay  attire  of  peasants  of  the  Crimea  they  form 
a  strange  contrast  to  the  solemn  visaged  and  ebony  hued  son  of  the  desert 
who  sits  staring  at  them.  Three  Turks  in  fez  and  baggy  garments  have 
stopped  to  chat  with  them  and  a  couple  of  Filipinos  are  drawing  up 
chairs.  Far  Cathay,  too,  is  represented,  for  have  we  not  a  group  of 
Chinese  in  court  costume  drawing  near? 

Off  in  the  corner  a  band  of  French  musicians  are  playing  a  lively  air 
that  smacks  of  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean.    A  Venetian  gondolier, 

105 


106  Wonders  of  the  Gloeious  Pike 

stopping  on  his  way  to  worl*:,  has  been  caught  by  the  familiarity  of  the 
tuneful  selection  and  has  burst  into  song— a  song  from  the  heart,  of 
sunny  lands  he  longs  to  see. 

LIKE  A  HASTY  FLIGHT  ABROAD. 

We  have  suddenly  been  transported  beyond  the  mundane  confines  of 
prosaic  America,  with  its  eternal  business  and  routine  commercial  grind. 
We  are  now  in  the  heart  of  the  Street  of  all  Nations ;  the  Mecca  toward 
which  all  known  peoples  of  the  world  have  turned  their  faces,  to  mingle 
as  never  before. 

Kipling  has  told  us  of  sitting  in  an  unheard  of  little  retreat  at  Port 
Said  in  the  heart  of  the  district  given  to  the  whirling,  dancing  girls, 
fakirs  and  the  wanderers  of  the  earth;  of  seeing  strange  sights,  while 
being  half  deafened  by  the  indescribable  maddening  clatter  of  almost 
innumerable  nationalities.  In  the  few  minutes  it  has  taken  us  to  step 
from  the  fair  grounds  proper  into  the  Pike  we  have  discounted  Kipling 
and  his  experiences. 

In  the  heat  of  the  hour,  gazing  through  the  latticed  windows  up  and 
down  the  brick  paved  thoroughfare  with  its  shifting  sands  and  its  shift- 
ing multitudes  of  strangely  mixed  humanity,  it  would  require  no  great 
stretch  of  the  imagination  to  carry  one  to  Cairo,  Bagdad,  distant  Bom- 
bay—or for  that  matter  to  any  point  within  the  knowledge  of  man  on 
the  face  of  the  earth. 

GAZING  DOWN  INTO   CAIRO. 

Through  those  same  latticed  windows  we  gaze  down  into  the  courts 
of  Cairo.  Lumbering  old  camels  move  slowly  back  and  forth  and  the 
patient  ass  rivals  the  donkey  boy  in  seeing  which  can  move  the  slower. 
From  every  niche  and  corner  a  merchant,  fresh  from  the  bazaars  of  the 
Orient,  calls  forth  the  quality  of  his  strange  wares.  Whirling  dervishes 
and  dancing  girls,  whose  muscles  obey  their  every  desire,  are  perform- 
ing weird  evolutions  for  the  edification  of  the  open-eyed  and  open- 
mouthed  throng. 

A  huge  Simeon,  whose  resemblance  to  his  tawny  master  suggests 
eloquently  the  correctness  of  the  Darwinian  theory,  has  caught  our  eye. 
Ah,  he  begs !  Again  we  comment  on  the  resemblance  between  master  and 
monkey.  We  flip  him  a  penny  through  the  latticed  window.  He  has 
caught  the  coin !    He  looks  at  it  disdainfully  and  hurls  it  far  away.    We 


Wonders  of  the  Gloeious  Pike  107 

toss  him  a  nickel  and  with  greedy  paw  he  hides  it  in  his  tiny  bag.    Like 
his  associates,  this  child  of  the  jungle  has  learned  the  value  of  Backsheesh. 

THE  SIM-A-LA-LA  MAN. 

But  we  are  wasting  time  on  monkeys.  Behold  these  two  towering 
figures  that  approach  astride  a  sorrowful  ship  of  the  desert.  With  what 
lusty  strokes  they  beat  the  time-worn  kettledrums  slung  across  the  cam- 
el's  hump.    One  is  about  to  speak;  let  us  hear  what  he  has  to  say: 

' '  Sim-a-la-la !  Grood-a-sim-a-la-la !  Very-good-a-sim-a-la-la !  La ! ! ! " 
Bravo!  He  has  made  a  hit.  We  must  confess  we  don't  know  very 
much  about  the  subject  of  this  learned  discourse,  but  it  must  be  all  right, 
for  there  goes  the  throng  in  the  wake  of  the  weary  camel  and  the  lusty 
sim-a-la-la  man  to  a  distant  corner  where  fiery  spirited,  piratical  appear- 
ing individuals  are  about  to  engage  in  a  deadly  assault  upon  each  other 
with  blunt  swords. 

CLEVER  CUEBSTONE  OEATORS. 

And  now  another  familiar  sound  smites  the  ear.  It  is  the  cry  of  the 
''barker".  The  genial  ''spieler"  is  abroad  in  the  land  and  he  numbers 
legion.  Listen  to  his  convincing  logic,  his  masterful  argument,  glowing 
eloquence  and  seductive,  alluring  invitation  to  witness  the  best  show  on 
the  grounds.  In  stentorian  tones  his  voice  assails.  Somehow  we  have 
fallen  under  the  influence  and  find  ourselves  drifting  from  the  Interna- 
tional rendezvous  to  the  sphere  of  his  influence.  Like  the  ancient  mariner, 
he  holds  us  with  his  glittering  eye.  It  is  worth  the  price  of  admission  to 
hear  this  Pike  orator  enlarge  upon  the  beauty,  incomparable  grace,  mar- 
velous ability  and  the  other  characteristics  of  La  Belle  Fatima,  Le  Belle 
Eosa  and  Little  Egypt. 

"They  are  here,"  he  cries.  "They  are  here,  giving  hourly  exhibi- 
tions of  their  wondrous  art,  precisely  as  they  have  done  by  royal  com- 
mand before  the  crowned  heads  of  Europe." 

"They  are  here,"  he  cries  again.  "The  famous,  the  unrivaled  La 
Belle  Fatima,  the  resistless  Little  Egypt,  just  as  they  appeared  before 
delighted  multitudes  at  the  great  Columbus  Exposition  at  Chicago. ' ' 

AN"  OEIENTAL.  MYSTERY. 

We  smile,  for  have  we  not  seen  an  army  of  La  Belle  Fatimas  at  all 
points  of  the  compass  and  encountered  the  beauteous  daughter  of  Egypt 


108  WONDEES  OP  THE  GlOEIOUS  PiKE 

performing  simultaneously  in  New  York  and  San  Francisco  f  But  why 
smile?  Behold,  they  stand  before  us  in  all  the  charm  of  tinsel  and  of 
paint. 

Ah,  it  is  refreshing  to  behold  these  beauteous  maids  at  this  moment 
and  realize  that  when  we  turn  away  we  shall  encounter  La  Belle  Fatima 
and  Little  Egypt  in  at  least  four  other  shows  before  we  have  walked 
as  many  hours.  Yes,  Little  Egypt  is  here.  It  is  part  of  the  mysticism 
of  the  East  that  there  should  be  so  many  of  her. 

We  pass  on.  Wherever  we  go  strange  sights  and  stranger  sounds 
are  met.  Entertainers  and  tradesmen  of  every  land  and  every  clime  be- 
siege us  with  their  wiles  to  leave  our  shekels  with  them.  In  twenty  min- 
utes we  can  speed  from  the  Tyrolean  Alps  to  Mysterious  Asia;  we  can 
reach  the  spot  where  Creation  is  re-enacted  several  times  a  day,  then  pass 
on  to  the  realms  of  eternity.  We  can  visit  the  North  Pole,  bury  ourselves 
in  the  strange  habitations  of  the  Cliff  Dwellers  in  the  delights  of  a  sub- 
marine journey.  We  can  board  the  fast  express  and  fly  along  the  route 
of  the  Trans-Siberian  Railway.  We  can  lunch  in  Japan,  partake  of  din- 
ner in  China  and  spend  the  evening  in  the  tea  gardens  of  Ceylon.  Lovers 
of  the  gruesome  may  witness  the  destruction  of  Galveston  and  those 
of  a  warlike  spirit  may  revel  in  a  battle  at  sea.  Truly  it  is  wonderful— 
this  street  of  all  nations  and  gathering  place  of  all  peoples. 

ADIEU  TO  THE  DANCING  GIELS. 

With  nearly  two  miles  of  attractions  and  forty-four  distinct  shows, 
it  cost  less  than  $20  to  go  down  the  world 's  fair  Pike,  from  ' '  A  to  Z. " 

The  general  admission  to  any  show  on  the  Pike  was  not  more  than 
50  cents,  while  the  vast  majority  of  them  cost  only  25  cents  to  enter  the 
main  gates.  A  few  charged  only  a  general  admission  of  10  cents,  while 
reduced  rates,  in  every  instance,  were  made  for  children. 

The  Pike  attractions  at  the  world's  fair  outnumbered  those  of  the  Chi- 
cago exposition  by  a  ratio  of  two  to  one,  while  the  area  covered  was 
greater. 

No  exposition  ever  given  in  the  world  has  offered  the  number  and 
variety  of  attractions  in  a  similar  department  as  were  offered  by  the 
Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition. 


WONDEES  OF  THE  GlOKIOUS  PiKE  109 


WHAT  IT  COSTS  TO  SEE  THE  PIKE. 


While  a  world 's  fair  visitor  could  begin  at  the  first  Pike  show  and  see 
every  attraction  along  the  line,  he  could  not  spend  any  money  for  wares 
that  would  be  offered  if  he  desired  to  remain  within  the  limit  of  $20. 

A  conservative  estimate  of  the  cost  of  "doing  the  Pike,"  and  adjoin- 
ing concessions  of  a  character  that  places  them  properly  in  Pike  classifi- 
cation, follows: 

German  Tyrolean  Alps— General  admission,  25  cents;  four  attrac- 
tions; combined  admission,  70  cents.    Total,  95  cents. 

Irish  Industrial  Exhibit— General  admission,  25  cents;  admission  to 
Irish  Theater,  50  cents ;  other  attractions,  estimated  cost,  50  cents.  To- 
tal, $1.25. 

Under  and  Over  the  Sea,  an  Illusion— General  admission,  25  cents;  no 
other  charge. 

Mysterious  Asia— General  admission,  15  cents;  combined  charge  for 
admission  to  native  theaters  and  other  attractions,  60  cents.  Total,  75 
cents. 

Streets  of  Seville— General  admission,  25  cents. 

Temple  of  Mirth— 10  cents. 

Moorish  Palace— General  admission,  25  cents. 

Glass-Weavers'  Palace— General  admission,  25  cents. 

Hereafter,  an  Illusion— General  admission,  25  cents. 

Hagenbeck's  Wild  Animal  Show— General  admission,  25  cents.  Five 
inside  attractions,  with  a  combined  admission  charge  of  $1. 

Ancient  Kome,  including  Coliseum,  Roman  Theater  and  Street  of  the 
Augustine  Period— General  admission,  25  cents.  Combined  charge  for 
other  attractions,  75  cents.    Total,  $1. 

Old  St.  Louis— General  admission,  25  cents;  admission  to  arena  and 
other  attractions,  40  cents.    Total,  65  cents. 

Creation,  one  of  the  largest  illusions  on  the  Pike— General  admission, 
50  cents. 

Paris  and  French  Village— General  admission,  25  cents;  admission 
to  theater,  25  cents ;  other  attractions,  25  cents.    Total,  75  cents. 

Palais  du  Costume— General  admission,  25  cents. 

Infant  Incubator— General  admission,  25  cents. 

A  trip  to  Siberia  and  Russian  Village,  combined  in  one  attraction- 
General  admission,  25  cents ;  additional  charges,  35  cents.    Total,  60  cents. 


110  Wonders  of  the  Gloeious  Pike 

Imperial  Eussian  Opera  company  from  Moscow,  in  pleasing  charac- 
teristic songs  and  dances— General  admission,  25  cents;  no  other  charges. 

The  Clitf  Dwellers— General  admission,  25  cents;  theater,  25  cents; 
snake  dance  and  other  attractions,  25  cents.    Total  75  cents. 

Chinese  Village— General  admission,  25  cents;  admission  to  Chinese 
Theater,  25  cents.    Total,  50  cents. 

Eskimo  Village— General  admission,  25  cents;  combined  charge  for 
other  attractions,  25  cents.    Total,  50  cents. 

Jim  Key,  educated  horse— General  admission,  15  cents. 

The  Old  Plantation— General  admission,  15  cents. 

The  Magic  Whirlpool,  spectacular— General  admission,  15  cents. 

Battle  Abbey,  cyclorama  and  plastic  battle  history— General  admis- 
sion, 25  cents. 

Deep  Sea  Diving,  showing  divers  in  operation— General  admission, 
15  cents. 

Naval  exhibition,  with  miniature  battleships  in  action— General  ad- 
mission, 25  cents.    Extra  charge  of  25  cents  is  made  for  reserved  seats. 

The  Galveston  Flood— A  mechanical  picture  of  the  destruction  of  Gal- 
veston.   General  admission,  25  cents. 

New  York  to  the  North  Pole— An  illusion.  General  admission,  25 
cents. 

Fairyland— A  water  chute  idea.    General  admission,  10  cents. 

Colorado  Gold  Mine— General  admission,  10  cents. 

Poultry  Farm— General  admission,  25  cents. 

Hale's  Fire  Fighters— General  admission,  25  cents. 

Japanese  Village— General  admission,  25  cents.  To  Japanese  Theater 
and  other  attractions,  50  cents.    Total,  75  cents. 

Constantinople  and  Cairo— General  admission,  10  cents. 

Transvaal  Spectacle— Admission,  25  and  50  cents. 

impeeial  eussian  opera  troupe. 

All  the  Russian  Pike  exhibits  were  in  the  hands  of  this  same  con- 
cessionaire, although  the  principal  one,  the  Imperial  Eussian  Opera 
troupe,  was  accorded  to  a  Eussian- American  manager  and  actor,  Ellis 
Glickman,  whose  Yiddish  impersonations  had  made  him  famous  in  all  the 
larger  cities  of  America.  In  his  Eussian  theater  at  the  very  center  of  the 
Pike,  opposite  the  International  cafe,  were  assembled  about  50  clever 


WONDEKS  OF  THE  GlOEIOUS  PiKE  111 

Muscovite  performers,  who  gave  a  splendid  operetta  several  times  daily 
and  each  evening. 

In  this  troupe  were  some  twenty  Eussian  young  ladies,  very  beautiful, 
of  the  better  class  who  were  renowned  for  their  singing  and  the  dancing 
of  the  Eussian  national  and  peasant  dances.  Many  could  speak  no  Eng- 
lish, but  were  proficient  in  Gferman,  French  or  Italian.  Most  of  them 
were  accompanied  by  relatives  and  all  were  famous  for  their  beauty  and 
ability  in  their  special  line. 

Eussian  songs  and  dances  are  wonderfully  lively  and  are  entirely 
different  from  anything  seen  in  America.  The  wonderful  melody  and 
rhythm  of  the  chorus  songs  are  always  favorably  commented  on  by  Ameri- 
can writers. 

Eussia  has  never  before  been  represented  at  an  American  exposition, 
hence  these  productions,  aside  from  the  war  interest,  attracted  the  studious 
and  the  curious  as  well  as  the  pleasure  seeker  and  music  lover. 

Notwithstanding  Eussia 's  withdrawal  from  official  exhibition  and 
notwithstanding  that  Eussian  merchants  patriotically  donated  the  several 
millions  of  roubles  intended  for  exhibits  at  St.  Louis,  to  the  ' '  Eed  Cross ' ' 
Society  for  the  relief  of  suffering  soldiers,  (an  action  that  American  mer- 
chants might  have  approved  and  adopted  under  similar  circumstances) 
the  enterprising  Eussians  put  in  an  appearance  in  good  style  after  all 
their  troubles.  Their  exhibit  on  the  Pike  included  a  trip  over  the  Trans- 
Siberian  railroad,  a  Eussian  village  and  Eussian  eating  house. 

SNAKE  CHARMERS  FROM  DISTANT  LANDS. 

Men  who  are  apt  to  drink  not  wisely  but  too  well  during  the  giddy 
whirl  of  the  world's  fair,  probably  know  that  sixteen  Hindoo  snake 
charmers  were  on  hand  to  add  to  their  exhilaration.  With  the  snake 
charmers  were  also  some  Indian  jugglers. 

With  the  Moqui  snake  dancers  the  Indian  charmers  gave  a  very  fair 
representation  to  the  snake  industry.  The  Indian  charmers  belong  to  the 
class  of  industry  which  exists  in  both  India  and  Ceylon,  the  members 
of  which  make  their  living  by  hypnotizing  the  deadly  cobra  de  capello, 
which  is  only  found  in  those  two  tropical  countries. 

The  Hindus  brought  with  them  a  supply  of  the  reptiles  for  charming 
purposes.  Mr.  Peter  de  Abrew,  of  the  Ceylon  Commission,  states  that 
although  these  serpents  are  poisonous  nuisances  they  are  held  in  rever- 


112  WONDEES  OF  THE  GlORIOUS  PiKE 

ence  by  the  Cingalese  and  Indians,  and  it  would  be  very  hard  to  induce 
them  to  kill  one  of  this  snake  family. 

They  are  always  taken  alive,  the  method  being  to  noose  them  into  a 
bag,  and  release  them  in  a  jungle.  The  cobra  has  an  ear  for  music,  and 
knowing  its  weakness  the  snake  faker  gets  his  pipe,  and  with  its  siren 
tones  lures  its  from  its  fastness.  Under  the  spell  of  the  harmony  it  shakes 
out  its  beautifully  marked  hood  to  the  tune  of  the  music,  while  an  as- 
sistant of  the  musician  grips  at  the  head,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  sting 
him,  and  then  draws  its  fangs  with  a  pair  of  pincers. 

After  this  his  snakeship  is  caged  in  a  basket  and  gradually  learns  to 
know  his  master,  and  what  tricks  are  expected  of  him.  With  other  snakes 
whose  fangs  have  been  drawn  he  travels  about  the  country  with  his  mas- 
ter, who,  for  a  pittance,  plays  his  music  while  the  snakes  dance  their 
hoods  in  time  to  it. 

THE   CLIFF  DWELLEES. 

One  of  the  interesting  shows  at  the  world 's  fair  was  the  native  pueblo 
of  Cliff  Dwellers  on  the  Pike.  This  was  in  charge  of  W.  Maurice  Tobin, 
who  is  said  to  be  America 's  best  known  exhibitor  of  these  strange  people. 

The  true  American  was  found  in  this  historical  aggregation.  These 
people  are  the  direct  descendants  of  the  Moki  and  Zuni  tribes,  which  met 
the  Spanish  conquistadores  350  years  ago.  They  come  from  the  famous 
Mancos  and  Casa  Verde  canyons  of  Arizona  and  New  Mexico,  and  are 
as  picturesque  and  interesting  today  as  they  were  to  the  early  explorers. 

The  Cliff  Dwellers'  home  on  the  Pike  was  an  exact  reproduction  of 
the  rude  habitation  in  the  remote  canyons.  The  exhibit  was  so  arranged 
that  the  public  could  climb  up  the  100-foot  cliff  which  represented  the 
Mold  pueblo,  and  passing  through  these  dwellings  obtain  a  correct  idea 
of  the  habits,  modes  and  customs  of  these  prehistoric  people.  A  visitor 
might  see  them  in  all  their  industrial  activity,  including  basket-making; 
a  native  pottery  in  operation;  blanket  weaving;  native  artisans  and  sil- 
versmiths plying  their  crafts;  a  reproduction  of  the  famous  church  of 
San  Miguel,  in  which  a  museum  of  curios  and  ancient  relics  was  shown ; 
the  Moki  catacombs  exhibiting  the  manner  of  burial  of  the  ancient  race ; 
native  goats,  burros  and  dogs  wandered  about  the  village,  giving  a  touch 
of  realism  to  the  exhibition.  In  the  Moki  theater  the  lighter  side  of  the 
life  was  shown ;  quaint  bridal  costumes,  native  dances,  ancient  chants,  a 
native  orchestra  playing  on  stringed  instruments  made  of  dogs'  ribs, 


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Wonders  of  the  Glorious  Pike  121 

sheeps'  toes,  tortoise  shell  rattles  and  sun-baked  squash,  A  company  of 
boomerang  throwers  exhibited  their  skill,  and  the  native  priests  showed 
for  the  first  time  in  this  country  the  marvelous  snake  dance  of  the  Moki 
tribe.  The  exhibit  from  an  historical,  ethnological  and  educational  stand- 
point, was  one  of  the  features  of  the  world's  fair. 

SPANISH   invaders  ARRIVE. 

The  story  of  the  meeting  of  these  primitive  people  with  the  Spaniards 
is  one  of  deep  historical  interest.  It  is  related  by  Mr.  Tobin,  who  had 
heard  it  from  the  chiefs  of  the  tribe. 

''BiCneath  the  town  then  perched  on  the  higher  slope  of  the  Wolpi 
mesa,  came  a  band  of  horsemen,"  he  said.  ''Some  were  clad  in  armor 
and  warlike  trappings  badly  damaged  and  battered  by  wear  and  tear, 
but  impressive  to  the  Indian,  who  for  the  first  time  saw  the  white  man. 
Perhaps  the  Molds  were  not  very  friendly.  The  warrior  priest  strode 
down  the  trail  followed  by  his  band  and  drew  a  line  of  sacred  meal 
across  the  path  to  the  town,  over  which,  according  to  immemorial  cus- 
tom, no  one  might  come  Vv^ith  impunity.  This  '  dead  line '  brought  death 
instead  to  the  Molds.  At  the  fire  of  the  dreadful  guns  they  fled  up  the 
narrow'  trail  to  refuge.  The  Spaniards  dared  not  follow  up  the  rocky 
way,  but  camped  for  the  night  by  a  spring.  This  is  the  first  picture  of 
the  Mokis  of  Wolpi,  who  were  thus  introduced  to  the  proud  Castilian, 
bent  on  reaching  new  lands  to  despoil. " 

And  the  Indians  of  those  days  are  the  forebears  of  the  Mokis  and 
Zunis  who  were  on  the  Pike. 

CINGALESE  DEVIL  DANCERS. 

Among  the  weird  and  interesting  customs  of  the  Orient  shown  on  the 
Pike  there  was,  perhaps,  none  more  so  than  the  devil  dance  of  the  Cinga- 
lese performed  by  a  troupe  of  natives  from  Ceylon.  Devil  dancing  is  an 
institution  introduced  into  the  island  from  India.  The  dancers  are  all 
powerful  men  of  excellent  physique,  whose  attainments  have  the  dignity 
of  a  profession  in  the  island. 

They  have  a  leader  called  the  Kattendija,  who  trains  the  dancers,  not 
only  in  their  steps,  but  also  in  the  incantations  which  go  with  the  dance. 

The  dance  is  meant  to  invoke  the  help  of  Devas  and  to  disperse  evil 
spirits  or  elementals  which  populate  the  astral  world,  and  are  supposed  to 
bring  about  certain  kinds  of  sickness.     The  afflicted  having  faith  in  this 


122  .Wonders  of  the  Gloeious  Pike 

particular  form  of  cure,  seek  the  aid  of  the  devil  dancer,  who  goes  through 
the  imposing  form  of  ceremonial  at  first,  afterwards  calling  his  troupe 
into  service  by  dancing  and  chanting  to  the  accompaniment  of  music. 

The  dance  is  performed  generally  at  night  by  the  light  of  torches  and 
to  the  accompaniment  of  clouds  of  burning  incense,  the  scene  being  both 
weird  and  picturesque.  The  ceremonial  has  no  connection  with  the  relig- 
ious beliefs  of  the  Buddhists,  instances  having  been  known  where  natives 
converted  to  Christianity  have  sought  the  aid  of  the  devil  dancer. 

SPAIN  AND  PARIS  ON  THE  PIKE. 

Spanish  dancing  was  one  of  the  features  of  the  Streets  of  Seville. 
This  concession  was  divided  into  six  departments.  The  Court  of  Lions, 
which  was  considered  one  of  the  most  artistic  portions  of  that  historical 
structure,  the  Alhambra,  erected  by  the  Moors  at  Granada  in  the  Thir- 
teenth Century,  was  reproduced.  The  market  place  of  Triana,  in  which 
Spanish  and  Mexican  wares  were  sold  from  booths,  was  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal features  of  the  exhibit.  Dancing  and  other  frivolities  also  con- 
tributed largely  to  the  performance  at  "Paris  on  the  Pike." 

WITH  THE  ESKIMO  TRIBESMEN. 

There  were  very  few  more  interesting  exhibits  of  strange  people  than 
that  of  the  Eskimo  village  on  the  Pike.  This  was  a  veritable  village  with 
all  the  phases  of  life  found  in  the  homes  of  the  northern  wilds.  The 
famous  explorer,  Capt.  Dick  Craine,  a  picturesque  argonaut,  was  manager 
of  the  attraction. 

There  were  28  real  Eskimos  in  the  village.  Eighteen  came  from  Behr- 
ing  Sea  and  the  balance  from  the  country  around  Labrador  and  Hudson 
Bay  territory.  Those  from  Behring  Sea  were  in  charge  of  the  famous 
guide,  L.  L.  Bales,  who  accompanied  the  late  President  McKinley  through 
Alaska.  In  the  group  was  Scondo,  the  great  chief  of  the  Aleutian  island- 
ers. Seventeen  tons  of  prehistoric  instruments  of  war,  peace,  music  and 
the  arts  were  among  the  many  features  on  exhibition. 

Besides  these  there  was  the  noted  "Hootch,"  the  United  States  mail 
dog,  driven  by  Mr.  Craine  over  74  miles  of  snow  in  one  day.  Then  came 
herds  of  other  noted  Eskimo  dogs,  reindeer  and  numerous  other  attrac- 
tions, exhibiting  the  natives  in  their  daily  life,  such  as  by  dances,  sports, 
singing  and  wedding  ceremonies. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 
THE,    PIKE'S    SPECTACULARS 

Under  and  Over  the  Sea — From  New  York  to  the  North  Pole — All  Aboard  for  the  Pole — 
A  Review  of  Old  St.  Louis — Story  of  Creation  Depicted — ^Awakening  of  Life — An 
Artificial  Whirlpool — Hereafter,  a  Gruesome  Show — A  Tour  of  Hell — Ancient  Rome 
Reviewed — Hale's  Great  Fire  Exhibition. 

IN  THE  way  of  brilliant,  bewildering  and  gorgeous  spectaculars  the 
Pike  never  had  a  rival  at  any  international  exposition.  They  de- 
picted everything  in  the  heavens  and  earth,  over  and  under  the  sea,  real 
or  imaginary,  horrible  or  charming.  Hell,  the  Creation,  the  North  Pole, 
Rome,  dizzy  whirlpools,  lofty  mountain  peaks,  calm  sunsets— nothing  was 
overlooked. 

''under  and  over  the  sea." 

One  of  the  first  and  most  novel  features  encountered  on  reaching  the 
Pike  was  Under  and  Over  the  Sea,  an  illusion  depicting  a  trip  to  Paris  by 
submarine  boat  and  return  by  airship.  In  a  mammoth  building  the  huge 
black  oval  back  of  the  submarine  boat  is  in  plain  view  of  the  passer-by. 
Passengers  are  seen  entering  through  the  open  hatchway,  which  is  then 
closed  and  hermetically  sealed  and  the  boat  sinks  from  view,  swallowed 
in  the  great  pool.  Down,  down  the  boat  appears  to  sink  to  the  ocean's 
very  bed.  The  dense  marine  growth,  forests  of  tall  plants  and  trees,  coral 
recesses,  reefs,  and  rock  caverns,  all  holding  some  form  of  fish  life,  can 
be  seen  through  the  plate  glass  windows  of  the  boat.  The  great  search- 
light sends  its  rays  through  the  transparent  waters  as  the  bpat  rushes 
onward,  and  the  topography  of  the  ocean's  bed  completely  changes. 
What  a  feast  for  the  eyes— a  perfect  kaleidoscope  of  green,  yellow, 
orange,  violet,  indigo  and  blue.  It  is  the  mermaids'  playground,  their 
beautiful  gold  and  silver  be-scaled  bodies  within  arm's  length  of  the  boat, 
as  they  gracefully  bound  through  the  water.  Monsters  of  the  deep  are 
overtaken  and  quickly  left  behind.  Arriving  at  Paris  after  an  eventful 
voyage  and  disembarking,  passengers  are  taken  in  elevators  to  the  top  of 
Eiffel  Tower.  From  this  vantage  point  a  birdseye  view  of  the  French 
metropolis  is  afforded. 

123 


124  The  Pike  's  Spectaculars 


AIESHIP  IS  NEXT. 

Here  a  massive  airship  restlessly  tugs  at  its  moorings,  and  all  aboard, 
the  weird  craft  commences  its  flight  through  space.  Like  a  bird's,  the 
great  wings  move,  and  soon  the  fading  city  is  but  a  speck.  With  the 
swiftness  of  the  lightning's  flash  the  airship  dashes  along  the  pathless 
wastes.  Aerial  monstrosities,  comets,  meteors  and  electric  storms  are 
met  and  passed  in  safety,  and  soon  the  distant  illumination  of  the  exposi- 
tion greets  the  bewildered  vision.  The  great  bird-like  ship  descends,  and 
passengers  find  themselves  once  more  on  the  Pike. 

FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

Somewhat  similar  is  From  New  York  to  the  North  Pole,  slightly 
removed  from  the  Pike,  yet  classed  among  its  attractions.  It  describes 
the  trip  from  which  it  takes  its  name,  the  spectator  boarding  a  realistic 
ship  at  a  typical  New  York  pier.  On  the  side  of  the  ship  next  to  the 
building  the  passengers  begin  to  experience  the  delights  of  a  summer 
sea  trip.  When  the  anchor  is  weighed  the  siren  shrieks  and  the  engineer 
gets  his  signals  through  a  tinkling  bell,  the  cord  of  which  is  pulled  on 
the  pilot  bridge. 

ALL  ABOARD  FOR  THE  POLE. 

As  the  vessel  apparently  gets  under  way  the  stentorian  tones  of  the 
captain's  voice  are  heard  as  he  shouts  his  orders.  Eeal  water  rushes  by 
the  ship's  side  and  a  view  of  New  York  harbor,  with  many  puffing  tugs 
is  seen.  Sandy  Hook  slips  by  and  the  Long  Island  shore  fades  into  the 
distance  as  the  vessel  passes  from  the  brown  water  of  the  harbor  and 
breasts  the  blue  waves  of  the  Atlantic. 

As  the  ship  proceeds  northward  the  weather  changes,  and  when  the 
frozen  Arctic  waters  are  reached  the  stewards  hand  around  wraps  and 
hot  tea  to  the  women,  the  men  having  provided  themselves  with  stronger 
warming  beverages  to  ward  off  the  chilly  blasts  that  are  swept  from  the 
icebergs. 

The  ship  is  finally  blocked  in  the  ice  floes  and  sleds  are  brought  out. 
The  passengers  are  transferred  to  these  and  the  hunt  for  the  pole  is  con- 
tinued over  the  ice. 

A  few  of  the  caches  built  by  Greeley  and  Peary  are  visited,  and  in  one 
place  a  document  is  found  revealing  the  easiest  and  nearest  route  to  the 
Pole.    This  advice  is  followed  and  beneath  the  everchanging  rays  of  the 


The  Pike's  Spectaculaes  125 

Aurora  Borealis  a  tattered  American  flag  is  seen  flying  from  a  jagged 
spur,  which  is  found  by  the  instruments  to  be  the  true  apex  of  the  earth. 
The  spectacle  was  conceived  by  E.  J.  Austin  and  built  under  his  direc- 
tion for  Emmett  W.  McConnell,  who  controlled  the  Galveston  Flood  and 
Battle  Abbey  exhibits. 

A  REVIEW  OF  "old  ST.  LOUIS." 

An  interesting  feature  of  the  Pike  was  "Old  St.  Louis." 

The  historical  old  Cabildo  of  New  Orleans,  reproduced,  was  seen  at 
the  entrance  of  the  concession.  The  first  church  built  in  St.  Louis  was 
reproduced,  and  in  it  were  heard  lectures  on  the  early  history  of  the  city. 
The  old  Courthouse  was  reproduced  and  in  the  Government  House  a  play 
recalled  the  purchase  of  the  Louisiana  Territory.  Napoleon,  Livingston, 
Monroe  and  Marbois,  the  main  figures  in  the  vast  transfer  were  all 
portrayed. 

Here  and  there  in  the  concession  were  seen  reproductions  of  the  homes 
of  old  settlers  of  St.  Louis,  who  lived  there  before  1803. 

A  Wild  West  performance  in  a  big  arena  and  an  orchestra  and  res- 
taurant with  singing  girls,  yodlers  and  high  wire  performers  complete 
the  concession. 

STORY  OF  creation  DEPICTED. 

' '  Creation ' '  was  a  Pike  attraction  of  commendable  merit  that  appealed 
strongly  alike  to  religionists,  lovers  of  the  artistic,  students  of  the  pos- 
sibilities of  stage  craft  and  the  merely  curious.  It  was,  perhaps,  one  of 
the  most  delightful  things  of  its  kind  and  cost  not  less  than  a  quarter  of 
a  million  to  install  for  a  few  brief  months.  Unlike  most  world's  fair 
side-shows  there  was  a  lasting  satisfaction  in  having  seen  it  and  care- 
fully examined  it. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  panorama  was  an  immense  and  strikingly 
beautiful  sculptural  piece,  the  artist's  conception  of  Eve,  the  first  woman. 
Back  of  this  figure  was  a  large  waterfall,  which  had  frosted  glass  for  its 
background,  and  to  either  side  there  were  seen  wide  streams  of  running 
water. 

Little  boats,  with  seating  capacity  for  six  persons,  floated  in  these 
streams,  and,  starting  at  the  water  falls,  at  the  base  of  the  Statute  of 
Eve,  one  was  taken  through  winds  and  turns,  until,  after  going  twice 
around  the  dome,  he  found  himself  in  the  midst  of  the  rast  amphitheater, 
with  the  chaos  of  the  unmade  world  facing  him. 


126  The  Pike  's  Spectaculaes 


A  TRIP  TO  EDEN. 

The  journey  to  the  amphitheater  was  one  of  the  most  remarkable  illu- 
sions to  be  seen  on  the  world's  fair  Pike.  Drifting  slowly  down  the 
stream,  one  passed  beautiful  scenes,  which  were  allegorical  descriptions 
of  the  world  at  its  various  stages.  From  the  Garden  of  Eden  he  was 
lifted  gradually  through  every  century,  until  he  finally  completed  the 
circuit  of  the  water  race  and  looked  upon  the  pictures  of  the  Twentieth 
Century. 

Entering  the  amphitheater,  the  scene  was  begun  over  again.  The 
chaos  effect  obtained  by  the  designer,  Eoltair,  was  a  master  effort  in  art 
conception. 

Volcanoes  were  seen  at  a  great  distance,  emitting  smoke  and  lava  from 
their  craters.  The  land  and  waters  were  mixed,  the  clouds  intermingling 
with  the  whole,  and  one  great  scene  of  utter  disorder  met  the  eyes  of  the 
spectators. 

One  by  one  the  scenes  changed.  The  volcanoes  died.  The  clouds 
lifted.  By  a  peculiar  electric  lighting  effect  the  vapors  could  be  seen 
passing  over  the  lands.  The  water  was  separated  from  the  land  and  the 
earth  gradually  shaped  itself. 

Then  the  decorating  of  the  earth  began.  Trees  and  shrubbery  sprouted 
up,  as  if  by  magic ;  the  sun  rose  and  set ;  the  moon  appeared  and  a  dull 
gray  light  rested  upon  the  newly  made  earth. 

AWAKENING  OF  LIFE. 

The  plant  life  increases  before  the  gaze  of  spectators  and  life  is  intro- 
duced. The  lights  were  modulated  so  as  to  fit  the  scenes  and  in  time  one 
saw  the  moon  go  down  and  the  darkness  of  night  rest  upon  the  universe. 

The  trees  and  plants  of  the  earth  disappeared,  the  clouds  vanished,  and 
when  the  audience  awakened  from  its  dream  the  great  doors  of  the  amphi- 
theater were  found  open  and  the  spectators  discovered  that  they  had  not 
been  living  in  a  forgotten  age,  but  that  they  were  in  the  Twentieth  Cen- 
tury, in  St.  Louis  and  on  the  Pike. 

The  music  of  a  great  pipe  organ  lent  itself  to  the  enchantment  of  the 
scenes  and  together  with  the  impressive  voice  of  the  scriptural  reader 
contributed  to  an  experience  not  to  be  soon  forgotten. 


iThe  Pike  's  Spectaculars  127 

an  artificial  whirlpool. 

Probably  nowhere  else  in  the  world  could  be  seen  an  aquatic  marvel 
equal  to  the  Magic  Whirlpool  on  the  Pike.  Ed.  M.  Bayliss,  a  noted 
showman,  has  outrivaled  nature  in  the  production  of  an  artificial  mael- 
strom at  a  cost  of  nearly  $100,000. 

The  famed  Charybdis  of  Ulysses'  day  and  the  terrifying  sea-giants 
off  the  coast  of  Norway  are  as  painted  toys  compared  to  the  creation  of 
Mr.  Bayliss,  for  the  Magic  Whirlpool  of  the  St.  Louis  Exposition  was 
elevated  60  feet  in  the  air.  It  came  apparently  from  nowhere  and  swirled 
with  terrific  roar  at  the  feet  of  the  spectator.  Women  and  children  entered 
the  maelstrom,  disappeared  and  returned  again  utterly  unharmed  and 
eager  to  repeat  the  experience. 

All  the  accompaniments  of  the  most  evil  disposed  whirlpool  known 
to  fiction,  were  there,  minus  the  danger  and  plus  the  mystery.  Water 
came  tumbling  in  a  silver  sheen  from  an  elevation  60  feet  high  and  fell 
in  a  circle,  around  which  boats  were  flying.  Boats  crowded  with  passen- 
gers entered  the  swirl  and  were  carried  away.  They  appeared  soon  at 
the  mouth  of  the  whirlpool  and  swept  round  and  round  on  the  verge. 
Suddenly  they  disappeared  only  to  appear  again  under  the  sheen  and 
from  thence  be  borne  away  to  the  accompaniment  of  music  into  a  fairy- 
land of  grottoes  and  fountains  and  flowers. 

Mr.  Bayliss  has  a  reputation  for  mystifying  effects  with  electricity 
and  light.  His  ''Land  of  the  Midnight  Sun"  was  the  wonder  of  the 
Pan-American  exposition  at  Buffalo,  but  the  Magic  Whirlpool  trans- 
cended them  all  in  mystery  and  interest.    It  was  a  veritable  scenic  railway. 

COST  OF  THE  PRODUCTION. 

The  water  for  the  whirlpool  came  from  the  Mississippi  river,  17  miles 
away.  Three  powerful  centrifugal  pumps  were  employed,  throwing 
49,000  gallons  per  minute.  Five  highpower  electric  motors  furnished  the 
power  for  the  pumps.  The  building  was  an  ornate  structure,  occupying  a 
prominent  place  on  the  Pike  and  covering  about  50,000  square  feet.  It 
contained  besides  the  whirlpool,  fountains,  grottoes  and  gardens,  2,700 
feet  of  railroad  track  and  2,300  feet  of  water  canal.  The  production  cost 
the  management  $90,000  for  construction  and  there  was  an  enormous 
daily  expenditure  for  maintainanee. 

The  electric  current  alone  cost  $28,000  for  the  seven  months'  period 
of  the  fair. 


128  The  Pike's  Spectaculars 


*'HEEEAETEE"  — A  GETJESOME  SHOW. 

Visitors  to  the  ''Hereafter"  on  the  Pike  became  for  the  time  being 
spirits  of  the  world  beyond. 

This  transformation  took  place  immediately  on  entering  through  the 
great  arched  corridor  in  the  apartment  first  visited,  and  known  as  the 
Cave  of  the  Dead.  A  guide  to  the  land  of  darkness  escorted  the  visitor 
to  the  outer  or  First  Circle  of  Hades.  Crossing  Acheron,  the  Eiver  of 
Woe,  in  Charon's  Boat,  he  visited  the  Infernal  Judge  "Minos,"  dispens- 
ing justice  to  an  endless  line  of  wicked  spirits. 

Further  on  he  partook  of  the  beautiful  visions  of  Faust  and  then 
passed  on  to  the  Third  or  Frozen  Circle,  crossing  Stj'gian  Lake  into  the 
City  of  Dis,  or  Eternal  Fires,  viewing  all  about  the  various  punishments 
of  abandoned  souls,  ever  and  anon  startled  by  the  inexplainable  appear- 
ance of  a  frightened  spirit,  who  in  its  efforts  to  avoid  contaminating 
mortal  contact,  occasioned  many  ludicrous  situations.  You  finally  arrived 
at  the  great  Throne  Eoom  and  entered  the  presence  of  his  Satanic  Majes- 
ty, mingling  with  his  courtiers,  skeletons  and  subordinate  devils. 

A  TOUE  OF  HELL. 

Hereafter  was  no  place  for  nervous  women  or  children  or  for  ultra 
sensitive  men  to  visit.  During  the  writer's  visit  on  the  opening  night, 
one  woman  was  carried  out  fainting,  and  others  begged  to  leave  without 
having  to  witness  the  entire  show.  The  whole  show  is  striking  and  any 
one  that  sees  it  will  no  doubt  remember  its  weird  appearance  long  after 
he  has  passed  through  its  horrors. 

daphne's  GEO VE. 

After  leaving  the  sickening  sights  illustrating  Hell,  more  pleasant 
views  were  disclosed.  You  now  passed  through  Daphne's  Grove,  ascend- 
ing and  entering  through  the  gates  of  Paradise.  Spectacular  illusion  ef- 
fects unfolded  the  biblical  history  of  the  ' '  Three  Wise  Men  of  the  Desert. ' ' 
This  impressive  production,  graceful  evolutions  of  a  host  of  ethereal 
bodies,  the  dimly  discerned  and  far  distant  "Star  of  Bethlehem,"  ever 
increasing  in  brilliancy,  and  the  final  culmination,  the  bursting  of  Celes- 
tial Dawn,  intensified  by  the  soft  echoing  strains  of  sacred  song  were 
depended  upon  by  the  management  to  offset  the  gruesome  introduction  to 
the  place. 


The  Pike's  Spectaculaes  129 


ANCIENT  KOME  EEVIVED. 

Visitors  found  ''Ancient  Eome"  an  educational  feature.  A  few  hours 
within  its  gates  gave  the  observer  much  valuable  information  about  the 
customs  and  manners  of  the  Romans. 

The  larger  part  of  the  exhibit  was  illustrative  of  the  Augustine  period. 
Within  its  gates  were  men  and  women  dressed  in  the  costumes  of  slaves, 
peasants  and  nobles  of  that  time.  Gladiators  were  lined  on  each  side  with 
hundreds  of  statues  of  the  most  famous  senators,  statesmen  and  generals 
of  early  Eome.  The  buildings  were  reproductions  on  a  small  scale  of 
those  destroyed  by  Emperor  Nero.  Marriage,  funeral  and  like  ceremonies 
were  performed  in  the  manner  of  the  ancient  Eomans.  Dancers,  acro- 
bats, wire-walkers  and  trapeze  performers  furnished  abundant  amuse- 
ment. 

Within  a  large  amphitheater  was  seen  a  reproduction  of  a  Eoman 
hippodrome,  twelve  chariots  and  forty-eight  horses  being  used  in  the 
races.  In  a  replica  of  the  ancient  arena  were  witnessed  contests  between 
gladiators.  Giants,  clothed  in  full  armor,  experts  in  the  use  of  the  broad- 
sword, daily  fought  in  the  ring.  With  their  hands  inclosed  in  the  cestus, 
the  boxing  glove  of  the  Eomans,  two  stalwart  men  also  strove  for  suprem- 
acy. Other  Eoman  games  and  contests,  dancing  girls  and  a  presentation 
of  ' '  looping  the  gap, ' '  a  bicycle  feat,  make  up  the  programme. 

HALE's  GREAT  EIRE  EXHIBITION". 

A  feature  well  worth  seeing  was  the  fire  fighting  exhibition  given  by 
Hale's  Firefighters,  an  organization  under  command  of  the  former  chief 
of  the  Kansas  City  fire  department.  Hale,  whose  fire  fighting  inventions 
have  done  much  towards  rendering  life  and  property  safe.  The  destruc- 
tion of  a  tall  tenement  house  was  shown,  with  thrilling  rescues  and  exceed- 
ingly interesting  drills.  The  exhibition  was  calculated  to  show,  and 
most  successfully  accomplished  its  purpose,  that  the  modern  fire  bri- 
gade, while  it  must  be  composed  of  brave  and  hardy  members,  depends 
for  its  greatest  success  upon  intelligent  and  unceasing  discipline.  It 
matters  not  how  great  the  spirit  of  the  hero  of  the  flames,  if  he  has  not 
passed  through  a  thorough  course  of  scientific  instruction  and  drill,  he 
is  going  to  fail  at  some  critical  time  to  do  the  proper  thing;  but  a  Hale 
Firefighter  never  fails  to  do  the  right  thing  at  the  right  time,  and  that, 
almost  instinctively. 


130  The  Pike's  Spectaculaes 


KAISING  BABIES  BY  INCUBATORS. 

In  discussing  the  Pike  more  than  passing  mention  is  due  the  baby 
incubator. 

Chicken  hatching  by  incubator  was  known  in  the  time  of  Ramases, 
but  it  has  taken  centuries  to  apply  the  same  methods  to  tlie  raising  of 
babies. 

The  baby  incubator,  as  demonstrated  at  the  fair,  is  a  nearly  square 
box  of  silver  metal  placed  about  three  feet  from  the  floor  on  four  iron 
supports.  It  is  air-tight,  except  for  the  ventilating  pipe,  which  sends  into 
the  box  a  constant  stream  of  filtered  air,  fresh  from  the  outside.  The 
proper  temperature  is  maintained  by  the  air  passing  over  hot- water  pipes 
placed  in  the  floor  of  the  cage.  An  exhaust  pipe  carries  away  the  impure 
air.  A  wheel  revolving  quickly  in  the  inside  of  the  incubator,  according 
to  the  air  exhausted  by  the  tiny  lungs,  becomes  an  indicator  of  the  rapid- 
ity of  the  oxygen  being  consumed  in  the  nest  by  its  occupant. 

Suitable  apartments  were  arranged  in  other  parts  of  the  building  for 
the  exhibition  of  unoccupied  incubators,  where  they  could  be  examined  in 
detail  by  the  visitors.  This  locality  was  constantly  thronged  with  inter- 
ested spectators  to  many  of  whom  the  experience  was  new.  The  general 
conclusion  was  that,  for  delicate  children,  the  expectation  of  life  would 
be  vastly  improved  if  the  parents  could  take  advantage  of  such  a  ' '  bring- 
ing up." 


CHAPTER    IX. 
SPIRIT    OF    THE,    TWENTIETH    CENTURY 

The  Transportation  Display  at  the  Fair — Brothers  to  the  Automobile — The  Automobile 
Everywhere  in  Evidence — A  Decisive  Innovation — B.  &  O.  Pioneer  Display — Trans- 
portation, the  Life  of  Civilization — ^Willard  A.  Smith,  the  Department  Chief — Lab- 
oratory Tests  of  Locomotives — Old  Trains  and  Old  Crews — Complete  Electric  Railway 
System — ^Development  of  Naval  Architecture — Atlantic  Passenger  Traffic  Illustrated — 
Strategy  of  American  Warfare — Airship  Contests. 

STANDING  right  by  the  Administration  entrance,  almost  the  first  of 
the  series  of  principal  buildings  and  all  but  one  the  largest  of  the  ex- 
position, the  white-walled  moss-green-roofed  Transportation  building 
gave  a  fair  idea  of  the  stature  of  the  fair  and  of  the  lesson  it  teaches  of 
the  progress  in  the  arts  and  industries  since  the  Columbian  exposition  at 
Chicago.  Here  was  spread  a  collective  display  of  the  world's  means  of 
travel  from  the  first  to  the  latest,  by  land,  water  and  air. 

BEOTHEES  TO   THE  AUTOMOBILE. 

Here  was  the  promise  of  an  exhibition  of  motor  cars  greater  than  that 
of  any  other  single  medium  of  travel  and  one  of  the  most  extensive,  most 
attractive  and  most  progressive  displays  in  the  whole  grounds.  Strangely 
enough,  the  occasion  was  the  debut  of  automobiles  at  such  affairs. 

The  buggies  and  the  wagons  and  the  boats  and  the  trains  had  all 
been  at  the  White  City,  Chicago.  One  automobile  had  been  there  as  a 
curiosity.  Bicycles  had  been  there  by  the  scores  and  hundreds.  Here 
almost  80,000  square  feet  were  devoted  to  automobiles.  The  bicycle  was 
here  too  in  small  but  respectable  array,  but  equal  to  it  in  importance  as  a 
collective  display  was  the  motor  bicycle,  proud  in  the  honor  of  being 
younger  brother  to  the  new  king  of  all  the  things  that  go. 

THE  AUTOMOBILE  EVEEYWHEEE  IN  EVIDENCE. 

No  change  in  the  affairs  and  ways  of  men  could  be  more  noticeable 
than  that  marked  by  this  exhibit  of  means  of  transportation  when  it  is 
compared  with  that  which  was  behind  the  great  gold  doorway  at  Chicago. 
Even  the  two  exhibitors  of  bicycles  had  those  with  motors  above  the 
pedals.  Even  the  exhibitors  of  boats  had  those  which  were  the  outgrowth 
of  the  automobile  industry.    Even  the  exhibitors  of  carriages  and  wagons 

131 


132  Spirit  of  the  Twentieth  Century 

had  automobiles  within  the  same  spaces.  Even  the  exhibitors  of  harness 
and  saddlery  had  appurtenances  for  automobiles.  Even  the  exhibitors 
of  carriage  and  bicycle  lamps  and  tires  made  up  the  greater  parts  of  their 
exhibits  with  goods  for  automobilists.  Even  the  exhibit  of  railway  trains 
was  encroached  upon  by  the  automobile  railway  inspection  car. 

A  decisive  innovation. 
The  Transportation  building  was  the  one  of  all  of  the  divisions  of 
the  exposition  which  presented  a  decisive  innovation  in  the  character  of 
the  things  which  it  held.  Perhaps  only  of  the  whole  fair  did  the  wireless 
telegraph  station  equal  it  in  the  graphic  suggestion  of  a  sweeping  effect 
upon  the  world's  work.  It  was  the  world 's  work  that  the  fair  depicted.  It 
was  in  these  two  phases  particularly  that  a  marvelous  shifting  of  methods 
since  the  Chicago  exjposition  was  broadly  noticeable. 

B.  &  o.  pioneee  display. 

The  Transportation  building  was  a  long,  low  structure,  lying  between 
Machinery  hall  and  the  Pike,  and  with  most  of  its  beauty  on  the  outside. 
Structural  iron  work  having  been  prohibited  by  its  cost,  the  building 
frame  work  was  of  wood  and  the  low  spreading  roof  was  one  great  forest 
of  pine.  In  the  center  of  the  floor  space  stood  the  street  cars,  railway 
trains  and  the  well  known  and  much  cherished  B.  &  0.  display  of  the 
evolution  of  the  railway  locomotive. 

Flanking  this  at  one  end  of  the  building  was  the  exhibit  of  the  car- 
riage and  allied  trades.  Then  came  the  exhibits  of  American  automobile 
manufacturers.  Occupying  a  corresponding  but  smaller  space  on  the 
other  side  were  the  transportation  displays  of  European  countries.  Boats 
and  odd  lines  completed  the  show.  The  bicycle  exhibits  were  in  the  auto- 
mobile section,  being  made  by  two  concerns,  one  of  which  made  automo- 
biles and  motor  bicycles,  the  other  being  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of 
motor  bicycles. 

teanspoetation,  the  life  of  civilization. 

The  importance  of  transportation  in  modern  life  was  first  properly 
recognized  by  the  World's  Columbian  Exposition  of  1893,  which  estab- 
lished a  department  devoted  to  this  subject.  Since  that  time  the  example 
has  been  followed  by  all  great  expositions. 

Transportation  is  the  life  of  modern  civilization.  It  is  the  circulatory 
system,  without  which  it  could  not  have  come  into  existence,  and  the 
stoppage  of  which  would  cause  stagnation  and  decay. 


Spieit  of  the  Twentieth  Ce,ntuey  133 

Modern  methods  of  transportation,  which  have  revolutionized  the 
entire  world,  had  their  inception  after  the  event,  the  centennial  of  which 
was  celebrated  by  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition.  The  vast  territory 
purchased  by  the  United  States  in  1803  is  now  the  heart  of  the  republic. 
That  it  has  become  so  rich  and  powerful,  a  seat  of  empire  in  one  coun- 
try, is  due  to  the  railway  and  steamship  and  their  congeners.  In  1803 
the  means  of  transportation  in  the  Louisiana  Territory  were  of  the  crudest 
kind,  principally  the  flatboat  and  the  pack  horse.  Today  the  same  terri- 
tory has  65,000  miles  of  railway,  its  rivers  are  traversed  by  great  fleets, 
and  the  telegraph,  telephone  and  trolley  wires  are  weaving  a  close  net- 
work over  its  entire  surface.  The  ^'unceasing  purpose"  of  progress  has 
had  no  better  exemplification. 

WILLAKD  A.  SMITH,  THE  DEPARTMENT  CHIEF. 

In  charge  of  this  important  department  was  Willard  A.  Smith,  a 
native  of  Kenosha,  Wis.,  and  a  prominent  Chicagoan  closely  identified 
with  railroad  publications.  Mr.  Smith  was  selected  by  the  railway  man- 
agers of  Chicago  for  the  position  of  Chief  of  the  Department  of  Trans- 
portation Exhibits  of  the  World's  Columbian  Exposition  of  1893.  This 
was  the  first  department  of  the  kind  that  had  been  established  at  any  expo- 
sition. The  work  of  planning  it  and  of  securing  the  various  exhibits 
required  from  all  parts  of  the  world  required  original  thought,  as  there 
was  no  early  experience  to  guide  in  the  matter.  As  is  well  known,  that 
department  was  one  of  the  most  successful  in  the  exposition,  and  was  the 
only  one  which  was  made  a  subject  of  a  special  volume  published  by  for- 
eign commissioners.  Mr.  Smith  also  held  the  position  of  Chief  of  the 
Department  of  Transportation  and  of  Engineering  with  the  American 
Commission  to  the  Paris  Exposition  of  1900.  In  connection  with  this  work 
he  was  decorated  Chevalier  of  the  Legion  of  Honor  by  the  President  of 
France  in  1901. 

At  the  Chicago  Exposition  and  also  that  of  Paris,  he  was  ably  assisted 
by  Commander  Asher  Carter  Baker,  of  the  United  States  Navy,  who  was 
also  Assistant  Chief  of  the  Department  at  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposi- 
tion. 

THE  SPIEIT  OF  THE  TWENTIETH  CENTUEY. 

The  exhibits  in  the  Palace  of  Transportation  showed  the  most  ad- 
vanced practice  of  today  in  railway  building,  equipment,  maintenance, 
operation  and  management,  and  also  the  history  of  the  railway  as  devel- 
oped during;  the  less  than  a  century  of  its  existence,  in  all  parts  of  the 


134  Spirit  of  the  Twentieth  Century 

world.  In  order  to  give  ''life"  to  the  exhibits  the  wheels  o?  the  loco- 
motives were  turned  by  compressed  air.  A  grand  central  moving  feature 
was  also  provided,  which  was  visible  from  all  parts  of  the  building  and 
caught  the  eyes  of  the  visitor  the  moment  he  entered  any  one  of  the  sixty 
doors  of  the  vast  structure.  A  steel  turntable,  elevated  some  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  surface  of  the  surrounding  exhibits,  carried  a  mammoth 
locomotive  weighing  over  200,000  pounds.  The  wheels  of  the  locomotive 
revolved  at  great  speed,  while  the  turntable,  revolving  slowly  by  electric 
power,  carried  the  engine  around  continuously.  Electric  headlights  on  the 
locomotive  and  tender  threw  their  searching  beams  around  the  entire 
interior  of  the  building.  This  moving  trophy,  emblematic  of  the  great 
engineering  force  of  civilization,  bore  the  legend,  ''The  Spirit  of  the 
Twentieth  Century." 

Grouped  around  this  central  emblem  were,  on  the  one  hand,  a  historical 
presentation  by  originals  and  models  of  the  development  of  the  loco- 
motive, the  car  and  the  track,  from  the  earliest  dream  of  invention  to 
the  wonderful  realization  of  the  present  day.  On  the  other  side  appeared 
the  most  advanced  design  and  construction— a  twentieth  century  exhibit. 

laboeatoey  tests  of  locomotives. 

Looking  forward  to  more  scientific  methods  than  have  yet  been  adopted 
anywhere,  the  Transportation  Exhibits  Department  inaugurated  a  new 
departure  in  exposition  work,  which  attracted  world-wide  interest.  It 
continued  to  conduct  during  the  entire  term  of  the  Exposition  a  series 
of  laboratory  tests  of  locomotives,  in  which  all  of  the  most  interesting 
of  modern  European  and  American  engines  were  tested  for  comparative 
efficiency.  The  time  and  place  were  most  fortunate,  because  foreign  and 
domestic  locomotives  could  be  available  as  at  no  other  time,  and  because  the 
attendance  and  assistance  of  the  leading  mechanical  engineers  of  the 
world  were  assured,  thus  making  the  tests  truly  international  in  charac- 
ter and  an  epoch-making  event.  These  tests  were  made  additionally  at- 
tractive by  running  a  locomotive  (or  turning  its  wheels  while  the  locomo- 
tive stood  still)  at  the  rate  of  eighty  miles  an  hour,  at  a  certain  time  each 
day.  This  locomotive  laboratory  constituted  a  portion  of  the  great  exhibit 
made  by  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  System. 

OLD  trains  and  OLD  CREWS. 

The  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railroad  Company  also  presented  a  grand 
retrospective  and  contemporaneous  exhibit  of  intense  interest  and  vafit 


Spieit  of  the  Twentieth  Centuey  135 

educational  value.  The  old  locomotives  and  cars  were  peopled  by  figures 
of  the  conductors,  engineers  and  firemen  of  the  early  days,  affording  a 
most  picturesque  effect.  A  very  large  model  of  the  new  passenger  station 
at  Washington,  D.  C,  was  one  of  the  features  of  this  magnificent  exhibit, 
which  brought  into  juxtaposition  the  embryotic  ideas  of  a  century  ago  and 
the  most  advanced  practice  of  today. 

complete  electeic  railway  system. 
The  electric  railway  was  represented  in  this  department  by  cars, 
tracks,  etc.;  while  the  electric  motors  and  appliances  were  exhibited  in 
the  Department  of  Electricity.  Along  the  northern  line  of  the  Transpor- 
tation Exhibits  building,  traction  systems  were  shown  in  operation  on  a 
double  track,  one-quarter  of  a  mile  in  length. 

passenger  cars  and  locomotives  of  all  nations. 

Two  Trains  of  the  finest  passenger  cars  ever  built  by  the  Pullman 
Company  were  shown  and  these  were  rivaled  by  those  of  other  great  build- 
ers. There  were  over  forty  modern  locomotives  of  American,  Canadian, 
French  and  German  construction,  including  two  of  the  largest  locomotives 
ever  built.  Every  variety  of  freight  construction  and  work  cars  was  rep- 
resented; great  prominence  being  given  to  the  most  advanced  steel  con- 
struction. Track  and  structures,  together  with  all  the  appurtenances  and 
appliances  relating  thereto,  enabled  the  tyro  or  the  foreigner  to  study  and 
understand  fully  American  ideas  and  methods.  The  State  Railways  of 
Germany  used  a  large  out-of-doors  space  for  a  track  exhibit,  showing  sys- 
tems of  terminals,  switches,  signals,  etc. 

development  op  naval  architecture. 

Some  of  the  most  interesting  features  of  the  Department  of  Trans- 
portation Exhibits  were  found  in  the  Marine  section.  The  models  of  the 
famous  Bureau  Veritas  of  the  Louvre  Museum,  in  Paris,  which  illustrate 
the  development  of  naval  architecture  for  the  past  three  centuries,  were 
shown  for  the  first  time  at  any  exposition.  Also  the  magnificent  boats 
which  form  a  part  of  the  Armeria,  the  well-known  museum  at  Madrid. 
The  British  Government  made  a  display  of  a  complete  collection  of 
models  of  steamships,  men-of-war,  etc.  There  was  also  a  complete  set  of 
models  illustrating  the  inland  transportation  of  India. 

ATLANTIC  PASSENGER   TRAFFIC   ILLUSTRATED. 

The  International  Mercantile  Marine  Company  occupied  a  large  space, 


136  Spirit  of  the  Twentieth  Century 

and  made  a  complete  exhibit  of  models  of  boats  of  tlieir  line  as  well  as 
other  features  illustrating  the  passenger  traffic  of  the  Atlantic. 

strategy  or  American  warfare. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  features  was  Dr.  Bircher's  War  Museum, 
from  Aarau,  Switzerland,  which  illustrated  by  relief  maps  the  strategy 
of  all  American  wars,  both  on  land  and  sea.  In  the  American  section  of 
the  Marine  division  were  full-rigged  yachts,  boats  of  all  descriptions,  and 
a  complete  historical  exhibit  of  the  water  transportation  of  the  Mississippi 
river ;  also,  a  model  of  the  port  of  New  Orleans. 

In  the  German  section  was  shown  a  model  of  the  port  of  Hamburg, 
with  the  vessels  of  the  North  German  Lloyd  in  dock,  and  an  exhibit  by  the 
German  government  of  vessels  and  models,  showing  the  development  of 
naval  architecture.  Among  this  collection  was  displayed  a  number  of 
models  of  old  battleshijos  of  the  line,  and  the  earlier  vessels  used  by  the 
Hanseatic  League. 

The  modern  methods  of  transportation  in  Japan  were  exhibited  in 
connection  with  models  of  her  navy  yards,  docks,  men-of-war  and  mer- 
chant vessels. 

airship  contests. 

Kecognizing  the  progress  made  toward  solving  the  problem  of  aerial 
navigation,  and  the  possibility,  if  not  the  probability,  of  remarkable 
achievements  in  the  air,  the  exposition  offered  a  grand  prize  of  $100,000 
to  the  airship  which  should  make  the  best  record  over  a  prescribed  course, 
marked  by  captive  balloons,  at  a  speed  of  not  less  than  twenty  miles  an 
hour.  Quite  a  large  number  of  aeronauts  announced  their  intention  of 
competing.  There  were  other  prizes  for  balloon  races  and  contests  of 
various  kinds  aggregating  $50,000. 

The  interest  in  aeronautics  received  tremendous  impulse  from  the 
announcements  of  this  concourse.  It  was  evident  that  the  result  would  be 
a  great  advancement  in  aerostation,  and  that  this  country  would  hence- 
forth take  a  leading  place  in  this  line  of  investigation  and  experiment. 
The  prizes  were  offered  for  achievement  only;  leaving  the  widest  range 
of  methods  open  to  the  competition.  The  amusement  attraction  feature  was 
entirely  ignored,  and  serious  work  only  encouraged.  The  rules  and  regu- 
lations formulated  by  a  conference  of  experts  and  originally  announced 
withstood  world-wide  criticism,  and  received  such  universal  approval  that 
no  change  was  requested. 


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THE    PALACE,    OF    MANUFACTURERS 

Building  Perfectly  Ventilated  and  Lighted — Compared  With  the  Chicago  Leviathan — Chief 
of  the  Manufactures  Exhibit — Vast  Labors  of  the  Department — High  Standard  of 
Artistic  Installation  Required — For  the  Man  With  Corns — Manufactures  or  Fine  Arts? 
— Classification  of  the  Manufactures — Hardware,  Heating  and  Ventilating  Apparatus 
— Great  Costume  Displ3-y — Sculpture  of  the  Manufactures  Exhibit. 

THE  Manufactures  building  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition 
was  of  Corinthian  design  and  covered  an  area  of  fourteen  acres. 
It  was  one  of  the  main  buildings,  situated  at  the  entrance  to  the  central 
boulevard  of  the  exposition  and  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  objects  seen 
on  entering  the  main  gate.  The  structure  had  a  frontage  to  the  north  of 
1,200  feet,  with  a  depth  of  525  feet  on  the  main  boulevard. 

The  architects  provided  imposing  entrances  at  the  centers  of  the  main 
facades  and  or7,ginally  planned  a  tower  400  feet  high  at  the  angle  of  the 
main  elevation  facing  north.  This  prominent  feature  was  to  be  an  appro- 
priate balance  to  a  tower  of  corresponding  height  on  the  Varied  Industries 
building  immediately  west.    These  two  towers  were  later  eliminated. 

Corner  entrances  were  also  provided  for  this  building.  Such  entrances 
are  difficult  to  so  design  as  to  be  in  perfect  harmony  with  the  architecture 
of  the  building  in  general.  Without  skillful  treatment  they  would  not  be 
acceptable  from  an  artistic  standpoint,  but  these  minor  entrances  in  the 
Manufactures  building  pleased  both  the  layman  and  the  expert.  Graceful 
groups  of  sculpture  both  ornamented  and  accentuated  the  four  main 
entrances  on  the  sides. 

BUILDING  PEKFECTLY  VENTILATED  AND  LIGHTED. 

A  most  skillful  arrangement  of  the  sky  lines  of  this  building  were 
effected.  The  roof  was  so  designed  as  to  give  perfect  light  and  ventilation 
and  at  the  same  time  to  avoid  the  extensive  and  troublesome  skylights 
frequently  used  on  structures  of  this  size  and  kind.  Each  facade  of  the 
building  presented  an  open  colonnade,  which  was  very  acceptable  in  a 
climate  like  that  of  St.  Louis.    This  afforded  a  passageway  for  visitors 

145 


146  The  Palace  of  Manufactuees 

and  at  the  same  time  offered  a  shadow  relief  that  enhanced  the  beauty  of 
the  design.  The  interior  of  the  building  was  laid  out  with  courts  of  sim- 
ple and  pleasing  proportions,  with  sufficient  decoration  to  relieve  the  uni- 
formity of  the  enclosing  walls.  A  scheme  of  mural  decoration  was 
effectively  carried  out  on  the  outside  walls  back  of  the  colonnades.  The 
cost  of  the  building  was  $850,000. 

COMPAKED  WITH  THE  CHICAGO  LEVIATHAN. 

For  purposes  of  comparison  the  dimensions  of  the  Manufactures 
building  at  the  World's  Columbian  Exposition  are  given.  The  latter 
Leviathan,  the  largest  house  ever  built  by  the  hands  of  man  and  therefore 
one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world,  measured  within  a  few  feet  of  1,700 
'feet  in  length  and  800  feet  wide.  It  cost  just  $1,700,000.  The  first  sug- 
gestion that  the  Manufactures  building  at  the  Chicago  exposition  dis- 
counted the  building  under  description  is  offset  when  it  is  explained  that 
about  half  the  manufactured  exhibits  were  located  in  the  Palace  of 
Varied  Industries,  a  heroic  structure  of  similar  architecture  and  pro- 
portions. Both  came  under  the  same  head  and  when  considered  together 
afforded  the  most  extensive  space  ever  given  by  an  exposition  to  exhibits 
of  this  character.  High  winds  were  responsible  for  the  abandonment 
of  the  lofty  twin  towers  designed  to  emphasize  the  relationship  of  the 
structures. 

CHIEF  OF  THE  MANUFACTUEES  EXHIBIT. 

Milan  H.  Hulbert  was  chief  of  this  important  department.  He  is  a 
man  of  extensive  and  varied  experience  in  exposition  affairs,  a  native  of 
New  York  City,  where  he  was  born  thirty-five  years  ago.  After  gradu- 
ating from  the  Brooklyn  Polytechnic  and  Collegiate  Institute,  at  the  age 
of  seventeen,  he  entered  into  business  with  his  father,  in  the  manufacture 
of  firearms  and  ammunition.  As  a  member  of  this  firm  he  organized  and 
conducted  for  the  house  comprehensive  exhibits  at  the  Chicago,  Omaha 
and  other  expositions,  which  service  having  given  him  a  full  knowledge 
of  the  conditions,  advantages  and  hindrances  involved,  from  the  stand- 
point of  an  exhibitor  as  well  as  of  the  exposition,  well  qualified  him  for 
the  position  of  an  exposition  official.  Continuing  in  commerce,  he  became 
an  officer  of  his  father 's  firm  as  well  as  a  director  in  and  adviser  of  other 
firearms  and  sporting  goods  companies. 

In  1899  he  was  appointed  director  of  the  Department  of  Varied  In- 
dustries for  the  United  States  Commission  to  the  Paris  exposition  of 


iThe  Palace  of  Manufactuees  147 

1900,  and  in  that  position  he  collected  and  had  charge  of  the  installation 
and  presentation  of  that  magnificent  display  in  the  foreign  section  of  the 
Esplanade  des  Invalides,  which  arrested  and  held  the  attention  and  com- 
pelled the  admiration  of  every  visitor  to  that  exposition,  and  which  opened 
the  eyes  of  Europe  to  the  excellence  and  advancement  of  industrial  art  in 
the  United  States.  Although  the  space  granted  to  the  United  States  in 
that  section  was  much  less  than  allotted  to  Germany,  England,  Austria  or 
Japan,  the  skill  and  taste  manifested  in  utilizing  the  comparatively  small 
area,  and  the  excellent  and  systematic  arrangement  and  grouping  of  ex- 
hibits, brought  the  American  display  into  the  greatest  prominence  and 
caused  that  section  of  the  Invalides  to  be  considered  by  everyone  the 
most  attractive  and  inviting  spot  in  any  of  the  foreign  sections. 

In  addition  to  his  duties  as  Director  of  Varied  Industries,  Mr.  Hulbert 
acted  for  the  French  government  as  a  member  of  the  Jury  of  Awards,  and 
for  these  services,  both  to  his  government  and  that  of  France,  he  was 
decorated  with  the  order  of  the  Legion  of  Honor,  grade  of  Chevalier. 

Mr.  Hulbert  was  selected  as  Chief  of  the  Department  of  Manufactures 
of  the  Universal  Exposition  of  1904  on  January  15,  1902,  and  at  once 
entered  upon  the  discharge  of  his  duties. 

VAST    LABOES    OF    THE    DEPARTMEJSTT    OP    MANUFACTURES. 

Applications  for  space  from  the  manufacturers  of  the  United  States, 
and  the  respective  foreign  nations  of  the  world  for  eight  times  the  space 
available  in  the  two  palaces  of  the  Department  of  Manufactures,  were 
filed  long  before  the  opening  of  the  fair.  Fifty-five  per  cent  of  the  area 
in  each  of  these  palaces  was  reserved  for  domestic  exhibits,  and  this 
domestic  space  was  applied  for  four  times  over.  This  is  not  surprising, 
in  view  of  the  fact  that  the  latest  census  discloses  the  existence  of  512,726 
manufacturing  and  mechanical  establishments  in  the  United  States,  the 
total  annual  output  of  which  is  valued  at  over  $13,040,000,000.  The  capi- 
tal employed  by  this  myriad  of  working  concerns  is  over  $9,000,000,000. 
To  answer  the  questions  of  those  interested  members  of  the  five  thousand 
manufacturing  concerns,  to  ascertain  their  desires,  to  sift  the  really  im- 
portant firms  from  the  unimportant,  and  to  keep  in  touch  with  those  who 
were  preparing  their  exhibits— to  aid  and  instruct  them  in  ways  too 
numerous  to  mention,  was  the  work  of  the  Department  of  Manufactures 
for  months  and  months  preceding  the  opening,  and  the  index  of  the  cor- 
respondence files  of  the  department  shows  80,000  names. 


148  .     The  Palace  of  Manufactuees 

Among  these  many  applications  were  requests  for  space  from  every 
line  of  industry,  and  the  applicants  were  asked  to  submit  sketches,  de- 
scriptions, etc.,  of  their  proposed  installations,  in  order  that  the  value  of 
each  might  be  determined  educationally,  commercially  and  artistically, 
the  allotments  of  space  being  made  only  to  firms  that  furnished  assurance 
of  the  best  displays  from  one  or  another  of  these  standards. 

HIGH  standard  OF  AETISTIC  INSTALLATION  REQUIRED. 

The  question  of  artistic  installation  is  one  to  which  the  manufacturers 
of  all  countries  are  devoting  unusual  attention.  At  the  Chicago  exposi- 
tion it  was  generally  considered  sufficient  if  the  goods  themselves  were  in- 
stalled in  a  manner  answering  commercial  necessities.  Now,  however,  the 
public  require  a  higher  and  more  artistic  standard,  owing  to  the  education 
they  have  received,  a  great  part  of  which  has  been  derived  through  the 
attention  generally  given  to  the  displays  in  show  windows.  In  the  past 
few  years  this  dressing  of  show  windows  has  become  a  profession,  and 
it  is  not  now  uncommon  for  the  large  department  stores  to  employ  a  high 
salaried  man  and  a  staff  of  assistants,  whose  whole  attention  is  given  to, 
the  conception  of  original  and  attractive  installations  for  the  difterent 
varieties  of  merchandise. 

If  you  can  imagine  a  big  department  store  taken  from  a  typical  city 
of  each  of  the  world's  principal  countries,  and  all  combined  under  one 
roof,  you  have  a  partial  idea  of  what  the  throngs  saw  who  passed  through 
the  Palace  of  Manufactures. 

Dress  goods  from  the  world 's  shops,  materials  for  men 's  clothing,  as 
well  as  shoes  in  all  stages  of  making,  from  the  leather  "sides"  to  the 
showcase,  occupied  so  much  space  that  the  vastness  of  the  industry  re- 
quired to  keep  man  clothed  began  to  dawn  on  the  mind  as  soon  as  the 
building  was  entered. 

Eich  silks  and  satins  so  costly  as  to  be  seldom  imported  save  in  finished 
gowns  tempted  feminine  eyes,  as  well  as  dainty  fineries  from  a  hundred 
workshops  devised  to  aid  lovers  of  the  art  of  dressing  well. 

FOE  THE  MAN  WITH  CORNS. 

How  shoes  are  made  may  offer  some  satisfaction  to  the  man  who  has 
corns,  for  he  can  watch  the  tortures  to  which  the  leather  is  subjected  in 
almost  automatic  machinery  before  the  pair  of  patent  leathers  is  ready  for 
his  feet. 


Tpib  Palace  op  Manufactures  149 

Richly-tanned  leathers,  plain,  stamped,  embossed  and  carved  in  intri- 
cate patterns  tell  what  has  been  done  since  the  hides  of  wild  beasts  were 
tanned  with  oak  bark  in  stagnant  pools  and  softened  by  oils  from  the  fat 
of  their  first  owners. 

manufactures  or  fine  arts? 

The  first  impressions  received  by  persons  who  entered  the  Palace  of 
Manufactures  by  the  west  central  entrance  was  that  they  have  inadvert- 
ently strayed  into  the  Palace  of  Fine  Arts. 

To  the  left  of  the  entrailce  was  a  forest  of  5,000  pieces  of  the  finest 
marble  and  alabaster  statuary  and  bronzes  from  Italy. 

"How  comes  it  that  these  are  in  the  Manufactures  building?"  is  the 
question  which  many  asked. 

The  most  common  supposition,  that  there  was  not  room  in  the  Fine 
Arts  building,  was  incorrect.  The  right  answer  was  that  the  beautiful 
objects  were  in  the  right  place  because  they  were  "manufactures,"  ac- 
cording to  the  rules  under  which  exposition  exhibits  are  classified. 

The  figures  were  works  of  art,  but  the  artists  who  created  them  were 
in  the  employ  of  sculpture  firms  and  the  figures  are  exhibited  by  the  firms, 
and  they  were  therefore  "manufactures." 

But  for  all  that,  it  is  doubtful  if  any  section  of  the  Fine  Arts  Palace 
attracted  greater  attention  than  the  exhibit  of  Italian  "manufactures." 

Most  of  it  was  snowy  white  and  the  collection  of  marbles  was  so  com- 
plete that  days  might  be  spent  in  studying  the  artistic  perfection  of  the 
exliibit. 

A  few  of  the  figures  were  of  heroic  size,  but  the  greater  part  of  them 
were  notable  rather  for  their  daintiness.  Nearly  all  of  the  pieces  were 
from  Florence;  a  few  from  Rome. 

A  feature  of  romantic  interest  in  the  exhibit  was  a  collection  of  400 
bronzes,  exact  copies  of  originals  taken  from  the  ruins  of  Pompeii  and 
Herculaneum.    They  were  all  in  copper,  with  silver  encrustations. 

In  many  other  general  features  the  palaces  of  the  Department  of  Man- 
ufactures differed  from  previous  similar  structures,  notable  among  which 
was  the  aisle  arrangement.  All  the  aisles  were  of  equal  width.  There  was 
no  main  aisle,  and  each  avenue  was  of  equal  value  to  the  sightseer.  The 
enormous  size  of  the  palaces,  and  the  thousands  of  people  passing  through 
each  required  a  systematic  arrangement  of  the  aisles  in  order  that  exhibits 
might  be  easily  located.    To  this  end  the  aisles  were  laid  out  on  the  same 


150  The  Palace  of  Manufactures 

principle  as  the  streets  of  cities,  each  having  its  name,  and  each  exhibit 
having  its  number,  the  same  method  being  applied  as  that  used  for  city 
blocks. 

CLASSIFICATION  OF  THE  MANUFACTURES. 

Broadly  speaking,  the  classification  of  nine  hundred  industries  in  this 
department,  which  were  covered  by  two  hundred  and  thirty  classes  and 
thirty-two  groups  of  the  official  classification,  included  all  the  goods  one 
would  ordinarily  find  in  the  following  retail  stores:  Stationery  store, 
artists '  supplies  shop,  hardware  store,  furniture  store,  dry  goods  store,  de- 
partment store,  jewelry  store,  toy  store,  china  and  glass  store,  men's  fur- 
nishing store,  tailor  shop,  millinery  store,  rubber  store  and  many  others. 

To  house  this  large  variety  of  merchandise  two  of  the  largest  palaces— 
Manufactures  and  Varied  Industries— covering  a  total  area  of  twenty- 
eight  acres,  were  assigned.  The  exhibits  were  installed  in  these  palaces 
in  three  great  classes.  In  the  Palace  of  Varied  Industries  was  found 
the  merchandise  commonly  classified  as  Industrial  Art,  that  which  is  made 
to  please  the  eye.  In  the  Palace  of  Manufactures  were  presented  the  other 
two  great  subdivisions,  consisting  wholly  of  goods  utilitarian  in  nature,  in 
contradistinction  to  those  in  Varied  Industries. 

HARDWARE,  HEATING  AND  VENTILATING  APPARATUS. 

As  before  stated,  the  Palace  of  Manufactures  contained  the  exhibits 
of  goods  of  a  purely  utilitarian  nature.  These  were  divided  into  two 
divisions,  one  including  hardware,  heating  and  ventilating  apparatus, 
glass,  lighting  apparatus  (other  than  electrical),  undertakers'  goods,  and 
a  large  variety  of  merchandise  in  woods  and  metals,  installed  in  the  west 
half  of  the  building,  and  the  other  consisting  of  the  exhibits  of  textiles, 
clothing,  etc.,  occupying  the  eastern  half. 

The  hardware  exhibit  included  everything  that  could  possibly  be 
classed  under  that  heading,  and  probably  the  most  effective  installations 
in  this  section  were  the  displays  of  cutlery.  These  were  interesting  and 
valuable,  and  showed  the  processes  of  manufacture  from  the  rough  metal 
up  to  the  grinding  and  polishing.  The  most  extensive  variety  of  table 
cutlery  was  shown,  as  well  as  pocket  cutlery,  scissors,  razors  and  knives. 

Following  the  hardware  section  was  that  which  presented  heating  and 
ventilating  apparatus,  including  extensive  exhibits  of  radiators,  low  pres- 
sure boilers,  stoves,  furnaces,  etc.,  as  well  as  every  variety  of  ventilating 
appliances  and  systems.    Adjoining  this  was  shown  all  the  methods  of 


iThe  Palace  of  Manufactuees  151 

lighting  other  than  electrical,  and  these  proved  very  attractive  on  account 
of  the  beautiful  spectacular  effects  which  were  presented. 

GREAT  COSTUME  DISPLAY. 

Turning  from  the  utilitarian  division  to  the  eastern  half  of  the  build- 
ing the  visitor  encountered  the  most  complete  exhibit  of  costumes  which 
had  ever  been  attempted  at  any  exposition,  one  of  its  most  interesting  and 
popular  features  being  the  show  room,  where  the  gowns  were  exhibited 
on  live  models,  in  addition  to  the  regular  installation  on  wax  figures  in 
the  cases.  Adjoining  this  there  was  an  effective  display  of  individual 
work,  such  as  embroidery,  lace-making  and  needle  work  of  all  kinds. 

FOEEIGN  DISPLAY  COMPARED  WITH   PARIS  EXPOSITION. 

The  Department  of  Manufactures  was  especially  notable  for  its  repre- 
sentative foreign  exhibits.  In  this  respect  it  far  surpassed  the  great 
exhibit  in  the  Palace  of  Industries  at  the  Paris  exposition  in  1900,  which 
latter  has  been  acknowledged  superior  to  anything  that  had  previously 
been  accomplished  at  international  expositions. 

The  Paris  Palace  of  Industries  was  1,200  feet  long  and  160  feet  wide, 
less  than  half  the  size  of  either  of  the  palaces  devoted  to  similar  exhibits 
at  St.  Louis.  Its  contents  were  so  well  installed  and  displayed,  and  of  such 
attractive  interest  that  this  section  proved  the  most  popular  of  the  entire 
exposition.  The  exhibits  of  France,  United  States,  England,  Germany, 
Italy,  Austria  and  Japan  stood  out  prominently;  each  had  an  excellent 
exhibit  of  its  special  products  of  manufactures  at  St.  Louis.  And  in 
addition  there  were  pleasing  exhibits  from  Holland,  Denmark,  India, 
Persia,  Norway,  Sweden,  Switzerland,  Turkey  and  many  others.  Ger- 
many, whose  exhibit  at  Paris  was  by  far  the  best  display  of  Industrial 
Arts  that  nation  had  ever  made,  had  in  the  Palace  of  Varied  Industries  at 
St.  Louis,  a  much  more  extensive  and  elaborate  exhibit. 

France  had  installed  in  the  Palace  of  Manufactures  the  most  impor- 
tant and  representative  display  that  that  country  ever  made  in  a  foreign 
land.  The  exhibits  of  Italy  and  Austria  approached  those  of  Germany 
and  France,  while  the  displays  of  Japan  and  also  of  China  were  distin- 
guishing features  of  unusual  interest. 

SCULPTURE  OP  THE   MANUFACTURES  BUILDING. 

It  would  be  unfair  to  pass  by  the  sculpture  that  adorned  this  great 
building  without  commenting  thereon.    For  the  court  of  the  Palace  of 


152  The  Palace  of  Manufactuees 

Manufactures,  Philip  Martini  did  two  marine  fountains,  one  a  '' Nep- 
tune," with  trident  and  chariot  drawn  by  sea  horses,  the  other  a^' Venus," 
with  spear  and  attendant  horses  and  chariot.  ''Victory"  over  the  main 
entrance  attracted  attention,  in  view  of  the  fact  that  the  sculptor,  Michael 
Tonetti,  employed  an  electric  fan  to  produce  the  effect  of  the  wind-blown 
garments  on  the  partly  draped  figure.  The  heroic  horse  groups  on  this 
structure  were  executed  by  L.  0.  Lawrie.  Isadore  Konti  supplied  alle- 
gorical figures  illustrating  the  ' '  Progress  of  Manufactures. ' '  Tonetti  did 
the  portrait  statue  of  ' '  Charles  Goodyear. ' '  Max  Mauch  contributed  the 
l^ortrait  statue  of  "John  Gobelin."  G.  T.  Brewster  modeled  two  span- 
drels, and  L.  L.  Ameteis  contributed  two  figures  for  the  roof  line,  all 
magnificent  examples  of  art. 

The  statues  of  Goodyear  and  Gobelin  well  illustrated  the  scope  of 
the  exhibits  within.  There  was  Goodyear,  a  modern  inventor  and 
manufacturer  of  goods  to  stand  the  hard  rubs  of  the  world,  representa- 
tive of  the  practical  spirit  of  the  day  which  is  looking  about  to  supply 
those  things  which  the  mass  of  the  people  must  use.  On  the  other  hand, 
there  is  a  limited  craving  for  the  things  that  are  artistic  and  a  more 
limited  ability  to  satisfy  that  craving.  Such  works  of  art  as  Gobelin 
tapestries  can  be  enjoyed  by  few,  and  the  very  fact  that  a  statue  of  their 
original  creator  should  adorn  this  palace  shows  how  faint  is  the  dividing 
line  between  Manufactures  and  Art. 


CHAPTER.    XI. 
PALACE,    OF    VARIED    INDUSTRIES 

Grand  Entrance  and  Interior  Court — Commercial  and  Household  Furnishings — The  Domestic 
Exhibits— Industrial  Art  for  Children — Great  Floral  Clock,  Electrically  Illuminated — 
The  Decorative  Sculpture. 

LTHOUGH  separated  from  tlie  Palace  of  Manufactures  by  the 
Plaza  of  St.  Louis,  the  huge  building  devoted  to  Varied  Indus- 
tries in  reality  formed  a  part  of  it  and  was  merely  a  division  of  the  same 
department.  In  passing  from  one  to  the  other  the  visitor  was  greeted 
with  his  first  view  of  the  main  vista  of  the  Lagoons,  Gardens,  Cascades, 
Terrace  of  States  and  Festival  Hall.  It  was  designed  in  symmetry  with 
the  Palace  of  Manufactures,  together  with  which  it  provided  space  for  the 
exhibits  of  this  department.    It  was  the  first  building  let  to  contractors. 

GEAND  ENTRANCE  AND  INTEEIOR  COURT. 

Because  of  the  importance  of  its  location,  the  general  plan  of  this 
Palace  provided  for  an  elaborate  treatment  of  the  four  facades  to  meet 
the  requirements  of  its  position  on  the  main  picture.  The  facade  on  the 
main  avenue  at  the  south  was  its  most  striking  feature,  being  provided 
with  an  elaborate  entrance  thrown  back  behind  a  circular  portico  of 
columns  of  increased  size.  An  ornate  dome  capped  the  portico.  A' 
magnificent  corridor  passed  through  the  building  from  its  entrance, 
leading  at  the  center  into  a  fine  interior  court,  with  exhibits  housed  in 
kiosks  and  iron  pavilions.  There  were  numerous  supplemental  entrances 
provided  at  the  center  of  the  facades,  and  at  the  corners  a  colonnade 
on  the  east  and  west  fronts  enhanced  the  beauty  of  the  structure. 

The  style  of  the  building  was  Eenaissance,  with  a  fine  and  liberal  use 
of  the  Ionic  column.  In  proportions  it  was  an  exact  duplicate  of  the 
Manufactures  building. 

COMMERCIAL  AND  HOUSEHOLD   FURNISHINGS. 

Among  the  industrial  art  displays  in  the  Palace  of  Varied  Industries 
were  most  interesting  and  comprehensive  exhibits  of  furniture  and  in- 
terior decoration,  the  former  including,  not  only  the  ordinary  exhibits 

153 


154  Palace  of  Varied  Industries 

of  furniture,  but  what  is  known  as  ' '  Commercial  Furniture, ' '  shown  by 
the  latest  filing  cases,  time-saving  business  devices  and  up-to-date  office 
fixtures  and  furnishings. 

Under  interior  decoration  was  shown  a  grouping  of  the  industries 
which  tend  to  make  ' '  The  House  Beautiful, ' '  consisting  of  displays  of  all 
articles,  features  and  details  of  interior  decoration,  such  as  upholstery, 
tapestries,  stained  and  painted  glass,  etc. 

THE  domestic  EXHIBITS. 

A  concrete  idea  of  just  what  was  contained  may  be  gathered  from 
a  review  of  the  classifications  governing  the  Domestic  exhibits.  These 
are  shown  under  the  following  heads. 

Interior  Decoration  (DeLuxe). 

General  Interior  Decoration  and  Furniture  (tables,  beds,  chairs,  etc.). 

Special  Furniture  (store  fixtures,  bar  fixtures,  billiard  tables,  etc.). 

Leaded  Glass. 

Silver  and  Gold  Ware. 

Jewelry. 

Fancy  Articles. 

Clocks,  Watches,  etc. 

Art  Bronzes. 

Art  Pottery. 

Art  Glass,  etc. 

The  collection  of  ceramics,  pure  porcelains,  unique  pottery,  etc.,  was 
very  attractive.  Japan  and  China  offered  specimens  in  this  exhibit,  which 
were  the  finest  ever  sent  abroad  for  that  purpose.  England,  France,  Hol- 
land and  Germany,  as  well  as  the  United  States,  were  represented  in  this 
display  by  the  finest  products  of  their  artists  and  kilns. 

Japan  had  $625,000  appropriated  by  its  government  for  a  magnificent 
representation  and  provided  an  unsurpassed  display  of  those  products 
of  industrial  arts  for  which  that  country  has  such  a  high  reputation; 
bronzes,  porcelain,  pottery,  carved  wood  and  ivory,  lacquer  work,  em- 
broideries, silks,  etc. 

industrial,  art  for  children. 

Included  under  Industrial  Art  for  children  were  the  exhibits  of  toys. 
Germany  and  France,  vieing  with  the  United  States,  have  arrived  at  a 
remarkable  perfection  in  the  production  of  all  varieties  of  toys.     The 


Palace  of  Vaeied  Industries  155 

manufacturers  of  today  are  paying  special  attention  to  the  artistic  forms 
of  their  creations,  and  each  of  the  above-mentioned  countries  showed  its 
most  improved  specimens. 

In  the  artistic  designing  of  booths  the  exhibitors  in  this  Palace 
excelled  those  in  the  other  palaces  and  the  big  building  offered  the 
appearance  of  a  complete  exposition  in  itself. 

GEEAT  ELOEAL  CLOCK,  ELECTRICALLY  ILLUMINATED. 

In  addition  to  an  extensive  display  of  clocks  in  the  exhibit  palace 
proper,  one  of  the  most  novel  features  of  the  exposition  was  the  floral 
clock  built  on  Agricultural  Hill,  for  which  this  department  furnished  the 
mechanism.  This  consisted  of  a  dial  100  feet  in  diameter,  the  numerals 
on  which  were  approximately  15  feet  high,  and  made  entirely  of  flowers. 
At  the  top  of  the  dial  there  was  a  small  house  built  to  contain  the  mech- 
anism, and  near  by  a  5,000  pound  bell,  whose  tones  could  be  heard 
throughout  the  grounds,  and  a  mammoth  hour  glass  exposed  to  view. 
This  bell  struck  the  hour  and  half  hour,  and  upon  the  first  stroke  of  each 
hour,  the  immense  hour  glass  turned  and  the  sand  run  back.  At  the 
same  time  the  doors  of  the  house  swung  open,  exposing  the  mechanism 
which  controlled  the  striking  and  operated  the  dial,  closing  immediately 
upon  the  last  stroke  of  the  bell.  At  night  the  clock  was  brilliantly  illumi- 
nated.   Some  1,000  electric  lamps  were  required  for  this  purpose. 

THE  DECORATIVE   SCULPTURE. 

Returning  to  the  building  proper,  not  the  least  of  its  exterior  charm 
was  contributed  by  sculpture.  "Industry  of  Man"  and  "Industry  of 
Woman, ' '  striking  examples  on  the  east  front,  were  the  work  of  Antonin 
C.  Skodik.  Nine  repeated  figures  of  a  "  Torchbearer, "  by  Bruno  L. 
Zimm,  stood  on  the  entablature  of  the  swinging  colonnade.  Spandrels 
on  the  corner  pavilions  and  spandrels  for  the  west  entrance  were  done 
respectively  by  William  W.  Manatt  and  Peter  Koasak.  A  tympanum 
behind  the  swinging  colonnade  was  the  work  of  Douglas  Tilden,  Cali- 
fornia's mute  sculptor.  Another  tympanum,  by  Clement  J.  Barnthorn, 
decorated  the  east  entrance.  The  four  groups  for  the  east  and  west 
fronts  were  contributed  by  John  Flanagan,  the  decorative  sculpture  as 
a  whole  suggesting  the  personal  nature  of  the  exhibit. 

THE  DOMINANT  FEATUEE  OF  THE  EXHIBIT. 

In  admiring  the  thousands  of  articles  so  eloquent  of  beauty  and  art 
displayed  in  the  Palace  of  Varied  Industries  the  visitor  was  most  forcibly 


156  Palace  of  Vaeied  Industeies 

impressed  with  the  atmosphere  of  individuality  which  surronnded  them. 
Pottery,  glassware,  bronze  figures,  fancy  articles  of  wearing  apparel, 
beautiful  watches,  superb  jewelry,  everything  which  might  be  accessory 
to  the  lives  of  the  wealthy  or  the  refined,  were  there.  Elegant  and 
massive  fixtures  and  appliances  for  the  office,  the  store  and  the  factory, 
were  also  displayed.  The  department  was  an  epitome  of  the  Home 
Beautiful  and  the  most  modern  conveniences  and  luxuries  of  the  business 
world. 

The  articles  themselves,  also,  although  largely  the  product  of 
machinery,  were  such  as  represented  the  intelligence,  skill  and  artistic 
taste  of  the  individual,  as,  for  instance,  the  wonders  in  bronzes  and  pot- 
tery^ jewelry,  interior  decorations  and  household  furnishings.  Japan 
carried  away  a  lion's  share  of  the  honors  in  this  special  field.  The  large 
part  played  by  the  child  in  the  American  life  was  also  evidenced  by  the 
many  artistic  displays  devoted  to  its  sole  amusement.  The  department 
of  Varied  Industries  was,  in  a  word,  an  exposition  of  delicate,  artistic 
domestic  manufactures,  and  will  long  be  remembered  as  one  of  the 
charms  of  the  exposition;  for  while  the  industries  there  were  as  varied 
almost  as  individual  tastes,  they  presented  the  aspect  of  a  beautiful  piece 
of  woven  goods,  or  a  selection  from  one  of  the  musical  masters,  with  a 
dominant  idea  or  theme  running  through  the  entire  work. 


CHAPTER    XII. 
MINING    AND    METALLURGICAL    PALACE 

Why  Obelisks  Before  this  Palace? — Development  of  Brick-Making — ^Joseph  A.  Holmes, 
Chief  of  the  Department — Typical  of  Louisiana  Purchase  Development — ^Archway  of 
Pennsylvania  Coal — Exhibit  of  Bethlehem  Steel  Company's  Rolling  Mills — Indiana  and 
West  Virginia  Coal  Exhibits — Gigantic  Cast-Iron  Statue  of  Vulcan — Greatest  Exhibit 
Space  of  All  Expositions — Workings  of  an  Anthracite  Mine — Profitable  Handling  of 
Low-Grade  Ores — New  Mexican  Turquoise  Mines — ^Mining  Gulch  and  the  Cement  Build- 
ing— Gold  Mill  in  Operation. 

GOING  a-mining  was  one  of  the  enticing  possibilities  of  the  Louisi- 
ana Purchase  Exposition.  The  advantages  of  mining  after  this 
fashion  are  legion.  Coal,  oil,  copper,  silver,  gold,  or  even  radium  can  be 
discovered,  all  within  a  comparatively  limited  space.  The  prospector 
strikes  "pay-dirt"— in  the  sense  of  something  of  interest— before  travel- 
ing far.  The  extreme  limit  of  his  operations  at  the  world's  fair  were 
confined  to  the  Mines  and  Metallurgy  building  and  to  the  "Mining 
Gulch." 

WHY  OBELISKS  BEFORE  THIS  PALACE? 

The  Palace  of  Mines  and  Metallurgy  was  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
structures  at  the  fair.  It  was  designed  in  L'art.Nouveau,  or  Secession, 
as  architects  term  the  style.  Close  by  was  "Mining  Gulch."  A  sugges- 
tion of  orientalism  clung  to  the  building,  due  largely  to  the  presence  of 
huge  obelisks  at  the  entrance. 

"What  are  those  obelisks  doing  in  front  of  the  Palace  of  Mines  and 
Metallurgy  r'  was  asked  by  scores  of  visitors  when  they  saw  the  build- 
ing for  the  first  time. 

Inside,  the  exhibit  showing  the  development  o?  the  brick-making 
industry  from  the  time  it  was  employed  by  Egypt  to  the  present  day, 
gave  the  answer. 

EVELOPMEl^T   OF   BEICK-MAKIl^G. 

The  various  clays,  varying  in  quality  from  the  common  earth  used 
in  making  chimney  brick  to  the  delicate  porcelain,  the  machinery  used 
in  transforming  them  into  useful  and  ornamental  objects  and  the  finished 

157. 


158  Mining  and  Metaul^uegical  Palace 

products  themselves  were  enough  to  give  anyone  a  wholesome  respect 
for  dirt,  provided  it  is  dirt  that  can  be  baked. 

Covered  promenades  surrounded  the  grand  building  with  its  deep- 
set  walls,  sculptured  panels  illustrating  mining  processes,  splendid  stat- 
uary ornamentation  and  Egyptian,  Byzantine  and  Greek  characteristics. 

JOSEPH   A.   HOLMES,   CHIEF  OF   THE   DEPARTMENT. 

Over  this  important  division  of  the  fair  Joseph  A.  Holmes  presided 
as  Chief  of  the  Department  of  Mines  and  Metallurgy.  He  is  a  native 
of  South  Carolina,  a  graduate  of  Cornell  University,  and  a  man  of  broad 
professional  culture  and  practical  experience.  For  ten  years  he  was 
professor  of  Geology  and  Mineralogy  in  the  University  of  North  Caro- 
lina, and  State  Geologist  of  North  Carolina.  Since  the  year  1891,  he  has 
been  ofiScially  connected  with  State  and  Government  surveys  and  an  active 
promoter  of  national  interests.  In  the  course  of  this  work  for  the  Gov- 
ernment he  has  visited  and  carefully  examined  the  mineral  and  ore  de- 
posits in  practically  all  the  states  and  territories  of  the  Union. 

With  these  general  attainments  Mr.  Holmes  entered  upon  his  special 
duties  at  St.  Louis,  being  equipped  by  a  previous  experience  in  the  in- 
stallation of  mining  exhibits  at  the  Atlanta,  New  Orleans  and  Chicago 
expositions,  and  having  served  as  a  juror  at  the  Omaha,  Buffalo,  Atlanta, 
Nashville  and  Charleston  expositions.  He  is  a  member  of  the  American 
Institute  of  Mining  Engineers,  the  American  Geological  Society,  the 
American  Association  for  the  Advancement  of  Science,  the  Washington 
Academy  of  Science,  and  other  scientific  societies.  In  addition  to  his 
practical  services,  he  has  been  a  frequent  contributor  to  scientific  and 
mining  journals,  treating,  both  technically  and  in  a  popular  form,  many 
subjects  allied  to  those  which  engaged  the  attention  of  visitors  to  the 
Mining  Department  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition. 

TYPICAL  OF  LOUISIANA  PURCHASE  DEVELOPMENT. 

In  a  segregation  of  departments  illustrating  the  progress  and  at- 
tainments of  the  last  century  in  the  United  States,  it  would  be  in  bad 
taste  to  designate  one  field  of  labor  as  more  worthy  of  consideration  than 
another.  It  may  safely  be  affirmed,  however,  that  so  far  as  the  modern- 
izing and  general  development  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  area  is  con- 
cerned, no  advance  has  been  more  marked  than  that  in  the  department 
of  mining  and  its  collateral  branches.    Hence,  the  Palace  of  Mines  and 


Mining  and  Metalluegical  Palace  159 

Metallurgy  may  be  safely  regarded  as  especially  typical  of  the  develop- 
ment of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  states,  agriculture  naturally  coming  in 
a  good  second,  with  not  a  few  advocates  claiming  for  it  the  first  place. 

In  any  brief  notice  of  the  Department  of  Mines  and  Metallurgy,  one 
must  necessarily  admit  his  observations  to  features  not  only  distinctive, 
but  necessarily  novel  and  attractive.  Although  in  the  Department  of 
Mining  alone  the  western  states  deserve  and  have  received  conspicuous 
recognition,  yet  as  largely  identified  with  this  industry,  as  well  as  of  the 
industry  of  metallurgy,  which  represents  the  consummation  of  labor  in 
this  department,  the  eastern  states  must  necessarily  be  fully  and  freely 
represented. 

AUCHWAY  or  PENNSYLVANIA   COAL. 

In  the  Palace  of  Mines  and  Metallurgy,  recognizing  the  fact  that  coal 
was  king,  especial  space  and  emphasis  were  given  to  the  coal  mines  and 
coal-bearing  areas.  With  this  in  view,  such  states  as  Pennsylvania, 
Wyoming,  Indiana  and  others  necessarily  claimed  special  recognition, 
and  this  recognition  was  given  in  a  most  attractive  way.  For  instance, 
the  state  of  Pennsylvania  erected  over  the  main  entrance  of  her  exhibit 
an  archway  composed  entirely  of  coal  over  20  feet  in  height,  and  of  a 
design  that  in  spite  of  the  refractory  character  of  the  material  was  rec- 
ognized as  artistic  to  a  degree. 

Pennsylvania,  in  addition  to  furnishing  the  arch,  supplemented  the 
leading  entrance  by  two  side  openings,  emphasized  by  cement  and  stone 
columns  and  balustrades  of  graceful  design  and  varied  materials.  This 
state  also  gave  additional  force  to  its  leading  industry  by  presenting  a 
relief  map  of  the  mining  regions  in  and  about  the  great  central  mining 
and  manufacturing  district  of  Pittsburg. 

EXHIBIT  OP  BETHLEHEM  STEEL  COMPANY'S  KOLLING  MILLS. 

From  this  same  commonwealth  also  came  an  exhibit  made  by  the 
Bethlehem  Steel  Company,  in  which  was  found  the  products  of  the 
great  rolling  mills,  arms  manufactory,  armor  plate,  etc.,  that  have  given 
to  that  establishment  world-wide  fame.  Here  was  installed  a  12-inch 
battleship  turret,  with  guns  mounted  and  in  place  and  surrounded  by 
finished  pieces  of  field  artillery  and  other  manufactured  products  illus- 
trating the  advance  of  the  metallurgical  processes  from  the  ore,  limestone, 
ganister  and  other  crude  materials,  through  the  pig-iron  furnace  and 


160  Mining  and  Metaixuegical  P.'Llace 

Bessemer  converters  into  the  rude  ingot,  the  rolled  plate  and  finally  the 
finished  product. 

INDIANA    AND    WEST   VIRGINIA    COAL   EXHIBITS. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  the  exhibit  from  Indiana.  On  a  space'  of 
26x26  feet  in  area  there  was  erected  a  circular  tower  of  medieval  design, 
33  feet  in  height  and  pierced  by  windows,  which  in  turn  were  occupied 
by  numerous  photographic  transparencies  illustrating  the  districts  and 
mines  identified  with  this  particular  region.  This  medieval  tower  was 
surrounded  by  high  walls  of  like  materials,  and  the  whole  constituted  a 
very  attractive,  artistic  and  scenic  exhibit,  at  the  same  time  illustrating 
the  purposes  it  was  designed  to  emphasize. 

West  Virginia  was  represented  in  many  ways.  Among  these  were  a 
working  model,  30x30  feet,  of  a  West  Virginia  coal  mine;  a  complete 
exploitation  by  models  and  maps  of  the  coal  mining  industry ;  a  statis- 
tical column  18  feet  in  height,  showing  the  total  coal  production  of  the 
United  States  from  the  origin  of  the  industry  to  the  present  date.  In 
furtherance  of  this  same  purpose,  a  coal  column  100  feet  high  was  erected 
and  on  this  was  illustrated  the  thickness  and  character  of  a  whole  series 
of  West  Virginia  coal  veins. 

GIGANTIC  CAST-IKON  STATUE  OF  VULCAN. 

Allied  to  coal,  and  second  only  to  it  in  value  as  a  mineral  product, 
iron,  both  in  the  ore  and  in  its  several  forms,  necessarily  must  command 
attention.  Here,  in  addition  to  the  monumental  ca3t-iron  statue  of 
Vulcan  over  50  feet  in  height,  was  exhibited  iron  and  steel  in  commercial 
forms  and  of  an  exceptional  character.  A  flanged  iron  and  dished  boiler 
plate  over  11  feet  in  outside  diameter;  a  second  flanged  boiler  plate  11 
feet  6  inches  in  diameter;  a  rolled  sheet  50  feet  long,  and  other  achieve- 
ments of  the  metallurgical  process  were  shown  to  their  best  advantage 
and  emphasized  in  a  degree  that  surprised  those  previously  uninformed. 

Not  only  did  eastern  states  contribute  to  these  two  special  exhibits, 
but  Colorado  was  in  the  field,  illustrating  in  its  variety  of  coals  and  in 
the  full  range  of  its  metallurgical  processes  the  progress  which  coal 
mining  and  metallurgy  have  made  in  the  center  of  the  Louisiana  Pur- 
chase area. 

GREATEST  EXHIBIT  SPACE  OF  ALL  EXPOSITIONS. 

Eecognizing  that  mines  and  agriculture  are  the  fundamental  sources 
of  supply  for  the  world's  needs,  and  that  until  the  date  of  the  Louisiana 


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Mining  and  Metalluegical.  Palace  169 

Purchase,  mining  was  but  little  known  in  the  United  States,  the  directors 
of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  Company  were  most  liberal  in 
their  appropriations  for  the  Department  of  Mines  and  Metallurgy.  The 
building  prepared  for  exhibits  of  this  character  far  surpassed  anything 
of  the  kind  ever  before  provided  for  a  like  purpose.  It  covered  an  area 
of  nine  acres  (525x750  feet),  and  cost  approximately  $500,000.  As  in 
other  buildings  of  this  exposition— a  fact  which  should  be  strongly  em- 
phasized—all of  the  space  was  floor  space.  Notwithstanding  this  fact 
the  exhibit  space  was  greatly  in  excess  of  the  space,  both  gallery  and 
floor,  heretofore  provided  at  any  exposition. 

PKOCESSES   AND    PEODUCTS   BOTH    SHOWN. 

The  great  aim  of  the  exposition  authorities  was  to  show  in  the  great 
palaces  for  exhibits  at  St.  Louis  not  alone  products  and  results,  but  the 
processes  and  stages  through  which  the  products  pass  in  order  that  they 
may  become  a  benefit  to  mankind.  The  exhibits  in  the  Palace  for  Mines 
and  Metallurgy  were  divided  into  five  great  groups,  and  these  in  turn  into 
fifty-three  classes,  which  covered  all  the  stages  of  mining  from  the  pre- 
liminary prospecting  and  surveys  down  to  the  manufacture  of  mine  prod- 
ucts into  the  articles  of  public  and  general  utility.  Wherever  it  was  pos- 
sible so  to  do,  these  processes  were  shown  in  actual  operation. 

WOEKINGS  OP  AN  ANTHEACITE   MINE   ILLUSTEATED. 

There  was  an  anthracite  mine,  for  instance,  in  Pennsylvania's  space. 
Out  of  the  base  of  a  miniature  hill,  from  a  black  little  hole  which  was  the 
miniature  shaft  mouth,  ran  a  pair  of  small  tracks.  Along  these,  oper- 
ated by  gravity,  went  the  rattling  cars.  They  dived  into  the  black  hole, 
and  presently  came  bobbing  out  again,  scurrying  around  curves  to  the 
base  of  an  incline,  up  which  they  were  lifted  and  then  dumped  into  the 
first  separator  or  breaker. 

The  breaking  was  accomplished  by  what  were  termed  the  ''main 
rollers."  From  the  rollers  the  coal  was  passed  through  a  series  of 
screens,  which  allowed  the  lumps  of  the  desired  sizes  to  drop  through. 
These  screens  were  of  several  kinds,  each  being  preferred  and  in  use  in 
different  districts.    Each  was  illustrated  in  the  one  working  model. 

After  screening,  the  great  problem  is  the  elimination  of  the  slate. 
One  device  to  attain  this  end  involves  a  double  circular  chute,  down 
which  the  coal  falls,  and  the  lighter  substance  flies  out  from  the  inner 


170  Mining  and  Metalluegical  Palace 

chute  and  goes  down  the  outer  one.  Another  plan  allows  the  coal  and 
slate  to  slide  down  an  incline,  the  bottom  of  which  is  a  slab  of  slate.  The 
friction  of  slate  upon  slate  is  greater  than  of  coal  upon  slate ;  accordingly, 
the  downward  move  of  the  slate  is  slower,  and  the  separation  is  thus  ac- 
complished. Still  a  third  arrangement  provides  an  incline  upon  a  lesser 
angle,  by  means  of  which  the  slate  is  picked  from  the  coal  as  both  move 
slowly  down.    All  of  these  processes  were  graphically  illustrated. 

The  slate  eliminated,  the  coal  is  subjected  to  a  tinal  screening,  for 
which  it  is  again  lifted  by  ascending  buckets.  Then,  in  its  final  and 
marketable  state,  it  is  loaded  direct  into  cars  by  means  of  chutes.  A 
plant  such  as  the  one  shown  by  Pennsylvania  is  capable  of  mining,  sep- 
arating, screening  and  loading  500  tons  of  coal  a  day. 

PROFITABLE  HANDLING  OF  LOW-GRADE  ORES. 

The  profitable  handling  of  low-grade  ores  is  the  great  problem  which 
has  been  met  and  solved  in  large  part  by  the  scientific  miners  of  the 
West.  Illustration  of  the  progress  made  appeared  in  several  of  the  ex- 
hibits made  by  the  Western  states.  Utah,  particularly,  demonstrated 
one  phase  of  the  exercise  of  man 's  ingenuity  in  this  direction. 

Prom  an  ore  bin  at  the  top  of  the  intricate  machine,  the  rock  slid  down 
by  means  of  an  automatic  feeder  into  a  Grates  gyrating  crusher.  Passing 
through  this  the  ore  appeared  in  the  shape  of  comparatively  small  peb- 
bles. Elevated  again,  it  passed  over  screens,  which  again  greatly  de- 
creased the  size  of  the  bits  which  were  to  go  through  the  further  steps 
of  the  process. 

From  the  screens  the  practically  powdered  ore  was  put  through  three 
classifiers.  These  were  simply  three  large  funnels,  from  the  bottom  of 
which,  through  a  pipe  smaller  and  within  the  pipe  of  the  funnel  itself,  a 
stream  of  water  played  upward.  The  heavier  of  the  powdered  substance 
naturally  sinks,  though  the  upward  pouring  of  the  water  causes  the 
lighter  of  the  material  to  pass  over  into  the  next  classifier,  and  so  on  to 
the  third. 

The  heavier  particles,  of  course,  contain  the  metal  which  it  is  desired 
to  isolate  as  nearly  as  is  possible  with  this  method.  The  lighter  material 
is  the  worthless  part  of  the  rock— "gangue"  it  is  called.  From  the  classi- 
fiers here  shown  the  already  partially  concentrated  copper  passed  in 
pipes  to  what  were  termed  the  "benches."  These,  as  the  name  indicates, 
are  simply  benches  or  tables,  designed  upon  a  slight  incline.    Parallel 


'Mining  and  Metallurgical  Palace  171 

along  them  are  lines  of  ridges  or  corruscations.  A  shallow  flow  of  water 
passed  over  these  tables,  in  direction  perpendicular  to  the  corruscations. 

The  half-concentrated  copper,  coming  from  the  classifiers,  was  car- 
ried by  the  water  across  the  table.  The  light  particles  were  washed  over 
the  ridges ;  the  heavier  ones,  sinking,  were  retained  in  the  grooves. 

This  is  the  final  step.  The  metal  then  usually  is  reduced  to  a  copper 
sulphate,  though  it  may  be  some  other  of  the  simple  chemical  combina- 
tions. The  elements  of  value  in  the  ore  have  been  extracted.  The  task 
to  be  accomplished  by  the  smelter  has  been  greatly  simplified  and  the 
freight  has  become  a  minor  factor  in  the  total  cost  of  production. 

NEW  MEXICAN  TUEQUOISE   MINES. 

A  turquoise  mine,  in  operation  precisely  as  the  work  was  done  three 
centuries  ago,  was  an  interesting  feature  contributed  by  New  Mexico. 
Native  Mexicans  in  picturesque  leather  clothes  and  broad  sombreros  were 
seen  breaking  the  turquoise-bearing  rock  from  the  cliffs  and,  in  sacks 
hung  by  straps  across  their  foreheads,  carrying  it  up  ladders  made  of 
notched  poles  to  the  Mexican  lapidary  in  a  cabin  above,  where  the  pol- 
ishing and  grinding  which  turn  out  polished  jewels  were  in  operation. 

Side  by  side  with  this  ancient  mine  was  another,  where  modern  ma- 
chinery and  modern  methods  were  employed  to  remove  the  turquoise 
and  prepare  it  for  market.  In  this  way  the  progress  that  has  been  made 
in  turquoise  mining  in  New  Mexico  was  shown. 

Near  the  modern  mine,  in  a  great  glass  case,  the  finest  rock  ever  taken 
from  a  turquoise  mine  was  shown,  with  the  rich  veins  of  turquoise  run- 
ning through  it.  The  lapidary,  at  work  in  his  little  miner 's  cabin  on  the 
hillside  above  the  mine,  explained  how  the  turquoise  of  commerce  is  pre- 
pared. Unlike  other  gems,  turquoise  is  never  sold  in  the  rough  state,  as 
there  is  little  in  the  appearance  of  the  rock  before  it  is  cut  and  polished 
to  indicate  its  final  value.  Some  fine-appearing  rocks  disclose  flaws  that 
make  what  would  be  sold  for  $6  a  carat  so  valueless  that  the  time  spent 
in  getting  out  the  rock  and  cutting  it  is  deemed  a  total  loss.  Others  that 
seem  off-color  in  the  rough,  when  polished  are  of  exactly  the  proper 
shade  to  command  the  highest  prices. 

Turquoise  must  not  be  too  deeply  blue,  nor  of  a  faded  color.  The 
most  valuable  stone  is  that  which  is  neither  dark  nor  light,  but  which  has 
that  peculiar  blue  that  can  only  be  described  as  turquoise.  In  constitu- 
tion the  mineral  is  a  compound  of  alumina,  carrying  a  very  slight  fraction 


172  Mining  and  Metallurgical  Palace 

of  one  per  cent  of  copper.    It  is  the  copper  that  gives  it  the  blue  color 
and  on  which  its  value  depends. 

FOEEIGN    EXHIBITS    OF    MINING    AND    QUAEEYING. 

Carrying  out  the  purpose  of  an  international  exposition,  the  spaces 
granted  to  foreign  countries  were  most  liberal,  and  the  exhibits  exceeded 
any  previously  made  by  these  countries  in  the  Mining  Department. 
Emphasis  may  be  given  to  the  exhibits  of  France,  Germany,  Great  Brit- 
ain, Mexico,  Brazil,  Italy,  Canada  and  Japan.  Each  of  these  nations 
presented  the  mineral  resources  and  metallurgical  product  of  their  coun- 
tries to  the  best  advantage.  Other  countries,  such  as  Sweden,  Belgium, 
Argentina,  Chile  and  Peru,  illustrated  their  mining  and  quarrying  in- 
dustries fully. 

Each  nation  showed  its  way,  and  its  way  with  nearly  every  metal  dif- 
fers from  ours.  Our  ways,  also,  are  very  many.  They  vary  in  localities 
to  meet  special  conditions ;  they  vary  with  the  purposes  to  which  the  out- 
put is  to  be  devoted,  and  they  differ  with  the  several  methods  that  in  many 
instances  have  been  devised  to  secure  an  identical  end. 

Turning  to  the  more  technical  feature,  there  was  a  fully  equipped 
operating  assay  office  conducted  by  students  and  efficient  experts,  as  well 
as  a  technical  and  scientific  library,  a  liberal  space  being  allotted  to 
geological  maps,  charts,  models,  etc.  In  addition  to  these  educational 
and  practical  features,  several  states  and  nations  installed  in  their  ex- 
hibits certain  specially  distinctive  objects  more  likely  to  attract  the  popu- 
lar eye,  such  as  the  gold  ciuartz  of  California,  the  rare  copper  ores  of 
Arizona,  and  the  tellurides  of  Colorado,  with  occasional  stone  and  metal 
monuments  and  trophies  of  artistic  merit  and  industrial  significance. 

MINING    GULCH    AND   THE    CEMENT   BUILDING. 

Mining  Gulch  was  a  shallow  ravine,  extending  south  from  the  Mines 
and  Metallurgy  building,  and  embracing  about  13  acres.  It  was  filled 
with  mining  and  metallurgical  exhibits  in  actual  operation.  This  had  a 
length  of  about  1,200  feet,  with  an  average  width  of  400  feet. 

At  the  northeastern  end  of  this  ravine  and  where  it  widened  on  the 
west  side  was  erected  the  cement  building.  In  this,  constructed  entirely 
of  cement,  were  exploited  the  many  methods  now  in  use  for  the  prepara- 
tion and  mixing  of  cement  rocks.    To  this  was  added  articles  illustrating 


Mining  and  Metallukgical  Palace  173 

the  uses  of  cement,  and  equipment  for  cement  testing.  The  Cement 
building  was  of  itself  a  most  important  feature  of  the  exhibit. 

As  an  allied  industry  to  that  of  cement  was  found  a  working  exhibit 
illustrating  the  manipulation  of  fire  and  pottery  clays,  with  the  continued 
processes  from  the  rolls  and  crushers  through  grinders,  mixing  pans, 
and  dryers,  to  the  potter's  wheel  and  firing  ovens,  the  artist's  studio  and 
the  final  glazing. 

Adjacent  to  the  pottery  and  cement  works  were  the  terminal  or  dump- 
ing bins  of  a  series  of  aerial  wire  tramways,  which  having  taken  their 
contents  from  the  sources  of  sujjply  at  the  head  of  the  ' '  Gulch, ' '  conveyed 
them  at  high  levels  along  the  entire  length  of  the  ravine  to  be  finally  de- 
posited or  reconveyed  to  their  source  automatically  by  methods  in  con- 
stant and  actual  practice  in  many  mining  districts. 

artesian  well  and  oil-boeing  outfits. 

Occupying  the  intervening  spaces  between  the  elevated  tramway 
cables,  projected  the  derricks  of  several  artesian  wells  and  oil-boring 
outfits  in  actual  operation,  together  with  a  full  display  of  tools  and  other 
appliances,  demonstrating  by  actual  operation  all  the  practical  methods 
of  sinking  through  sand,  gravel  and  rock,  the  extraction  of  wedged  and 
broken  tools,  the  application  of  sand  pumps  and  torpedoes,  together  with 
the  processes  of  tubing,  and  finally  of  the  pumping  of  the  oil  with  subse- 
quent storage  and  transportation. 

GOLD   mill  in   operation. 

On  the  abrupt  slopes  of  the  area  was  an  operating  gold  mill,  in  which 
were  shown  the  method  of  crushing  gold  ore,  and  the  collection  of  the 
metallic  contents  on  plates,  followed  by  the  concentration  of  the  tailings 
and  slimes.  In  continuation  of  this  practical  gold  mill  was  another  espe- 
cially designed  to  demonstrate  the  use  and  application  of  cyanide  and 
other  chemical  processes  in  the  extraction  of  gold  from  tailings  that  have 
passed  over  the  plates  and  concentrating  tables. 

Further  on  were  exhibited  the  primitive  and  picturesque  methods  of 
smelting  copper  ores  practiced  by  Mexican  Indians  by  processes  in  use 
when  Cortez  visited  that  country.  The  natives  engaged  in  this  work  lived 
on  the  ground  in  their  tile  covered  huts  and  prepared  their  corn  and  food 
in  primitive  hand-mills,  baking  their  tortillas  in  still  more  primitive  clay 
ovens. 


174  Mining  and  Metalluegicax,  Palace 

As  an  allied  exhibit  to  the  adjoining  coal  mine  there  was  an  electric 
railway,  in  which  was  demonstrated  a  novel  and  effective  method  for  the 
utilization  of  the  third  or  central  rail  in  the  operation  of  coal  mining 
trains  around  abrupt  curves  and  over  steep  grades.  The  overhead  tram- 
ways were  utilized  when  needed  to  convey  raw  and  waste  materials  to 
and  from  the  several  special  points  indicated  above  and  in  fact  they 
illustrated  what  is  rapidly  becoming  one  of  the  most  economic  features 
in  the  operation  of  mines  located  at  otherwise  inaccessible  points. 

GENEEAL    FEATURES    OF    THE    DEPAETMENT. 

The  exhibits  of  this  department  generally  illustrated  the  great  sci- 
entific advances  made  in  getting  from  mother  earth  her  raw  minerals 
and,  with  the  least  possible  waste,  transforming  them  into  such  shape 
that  they  could  be  used  by  the  manufacturer.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  iron 
and  all  the  other  ores  were  shown  passing  through  the  most  modern 
processes,  often  in  contrast  with  the  ancient  methods,  until  they  ap- 
peared, freed  of  all  refuse  and  ready  to  be  transformed  into  a  thousand 
forms  of  beauty  and  utility.  Coal,  which  in  combination  with  the  re- 
fined products,  forms  the  basis  of  the  manufacturing  industries,  was 
also  mined  according  to  the  most  ingenious  and  economical  modern 
methods.  The  coal  of  industry  and  the  coal  of  the  household  was  very 
largely  in  evidence,  both  the  extent  and  graphic  nature  of  this  class  of 
exhibits  being  especially  impressive.  If  there  were  any  real  monarchs 
in  this  department  they  were  Coal  and  Iron. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 
THE,    PALACE,    OF    LIBERAL    ARTS 

The  Graphic,  or  Recording  Arts— German  Public  Works— Wonderful  Chinese  Wood  Work— 
What  Latter-Day  Photographers  Do — Development  of  the  Piano — Largest  Organ  in 
the  World— A  Factory  of  Sound,  Electrically  Driven— Five  Organs  Combined  in  One- 
Key  Desk  Worked  by  Electric  Cable— Organist  with  Four  Hands— Manual  and  Pedal 
Departments— Civil  and  Military  Engineering— Solidification  of  Hydrogen— Germany's 
Exposition  of  Printing,  Photography  and  Hygiene— China's  Complete,  Fantastic  Show- 
ing— Col.  John  O.  Ockerson,  Chief  of  the  Department. 

THE  place  occupied  by  Liberal  Arts  in  the  higher  development  of 
mankind  was  well  indicated  by  the  position  given  it  in  the  arrange- 
ment of  the  different  exposition  departments.  It  was  one  step  ahead  of 
Manufactures  and  one  step  behind  Art.  In  other  words,  the  Louisiana 
Purchase  Exposition  recognized  that,  while  no  apt  phrase  has  as  yet  been 
coined  to  comprehensively  define  ''Liberal  Arts,"  the  department  is 
nearly  related  to  Manufacture  and  closely  akin  to  both  Science  and  Art. 

The  department  was  housed  in  the  most  easterly  of  the  exhibit  palaces, 
a  splendid  structure  covering  nine  acres.  It  was  within  the  walls  of  this 
building,  on  April  30  and  May  1  and  2,  that  the  ceremonies  incident  to 
the  dedication  of  the  exposition  took  place,  in  the  presence  of  one  of  the 
greatest  audiences  ever  assembled  in  one  enclosure  west  of  the  Mississippi 
river,  and  was  graced  by  the  presence  of  President  Eoosevelt,  former 
President  Cleveland  and  other  distinguished  guests. 

WEIGHTS  AND   MEASURES  GALOEE. 

What  man  has  learned  in  the  art  of  measurement  since  he  surveyed 
ground  by  stepping  it  off,  found  the  weight  of  an  object  by  holding  it  in 
one  hand  and  comparing  it  with  a  stone  held  in  the  other,  and  counted 
on  his  fingers  or  with  notches  on  sticks,  was  vividly  shown  by  an  impor- 
tant part  of  the  exhibits  in  the  Palace  of  Liberal  Arts. 

Eules,  surveyors '  instruments,  scales  and  counting  machines  told  part 
of  the  story  and  in  endless  variety  displayed  the  different  branches  into 
which  the  first  principles  have  grown. 

175 


176  The  Palace  of  Liberal  Arts 

From  the  plain  footrule  to  the  surveyor's  instniments  which  call 
higher  mathematics  into  service  when  computing  distance,  the  exhibit  of 
linear  measurement  was  complete. 

There  were  scales  that  would  weigh  the  most  slender  thread  of  a  spid- 
er's  web  and  those  that  registered  in  tons;  scales  balanced  on  jewels  for 
the  most  delicate  uses  of  chemists,  and  scales  with  huge  beams  a  man 
could  not  lift ;  spring,  balance  and  lever  scales,  every  type  and  in  count- 
less number,  placed  side  by  side  to  tell  what  has  been  learned  in  the  art 
of  determining  weights. 

the  graphic,  or  recording  arts. 

The  graphic  arts  record  the  achievements  that  other  arts  accomplish. 
Typesetting  machines,  American  and  foreign,  were  in  operation,  and  the 
automatic  production  of  type,  either  in  solid  lines  or  in  single  letters,  gave 
no  hint  of  the  struggles  Guttenberg  first  had  when  he  cut  all  his  type 
by  hand. 

Printing  presses  formed  one  of  the  most  complete  exhibits  in  the 
building.  They  ranged  from  machines  which  print  visiting  cards  to  the 
big  newspaper  press  into  one  end  of  which  a  roll  of  paper  feeds  its  web, 
to  come  out  at  the  other  side  a  neatly  folded  newspaper.  Color  presses 
in  operation  answered  queries  of  the  curious,  anxious  to  learn  how  maga- 
zine sections  of  Sunday  newspapers  are  made.  A  popular  magazine  was 
printed,  the  complete  operation  from  paper  roll  to  bound  volume,  ready 
for  the  news  stand,  being  in  plain  view. 

Allied  with  the  printing  arts  are  lithographing  and  engraving,  and 
thousands  saw  for  the  first  time  at  the  fair  how  a  photograph  is  handled 
in  a  newspaper  office  or  publishing  house,  in  order  to  reproduce  it  on 
paper.  A  wall  covered  with  posters  that  made  college  men  envious  was 
the  most  striking  feature  of  the  lithographic  display. 

GERMAN  public  WORKS  PICTURED. 

Painstaking  German  surveyors  had  a  wonderful  series  of  maps,  relief 
and  outline,  which  attracted  those  interested  in  public  works.  The  con- 
struction of  reservoirs,  sewers,  parks  and  streets  was  covered  by  photo- 
graphs, working  plans,  drawing  and  miniature  models  made  of  the  actual 
materials  employed.  How  a  city  can  be  laid  out  to  secure  the  best  sanitary 
regulations,  the  most  beautiful  arrangement  of  streets  and  parks,  and 
the  greatest  possible  good  to  all  classes  of  its  inhabitants  were  all  shown. 


The  Palace  of  Libekai.  Arts  177 

Many  tourists  who  had  made  a  trip  to  Cologne  to  see  its  great  cathedral 
stopped  in  admiration  before  the  immense  map,  and  just  beneath,  the 
beautiful  painting  of  the  entire  city. 

WONDERFUL   CHINESE  WOOD   WORK. 

With  miniature  pagodas  the  Chinese  tell  how  they  have  mastered 
cabinet  work  and  the  art  of  carving.  The  wood-working  accomplish- 
ments of  the  native  artists  put  to  shame  anything  else  of  the  kind  shown 
in  the  building.  Scores  of  models  of  quaintly-shaped  junks  contrasted 
oddly  with  the  highly  polished  models  of  the  royal  yachts  in  the  German 
exhibit  close  by. 

Photographs,  from  snap  shots  to  color  pictures  which  rivaled  brilliant 
oil  paintings  won  the  admiration  of  all  who  were  familiar  with  a  camera 's 
possibilities. 

what  latter-day  photographers  do. 

Daguerre  would  have  been  equally  amazed  with  those  unfamiliar  with 
some  of  the  work  by  latter-day  photographers,  had  he  been  there  to  see  the 
photographs  which  looked  as  if  they  had  been  drawn  with  a  pencil, 
photographs  appearing  to  have  been  painted  with  gray  and  white  pig- 
ments on  rough  canvas,  portraits  which  could  not  be  told  from  wood- 
engraving  first  proofs,  landscapes  with  all  of  their  natural  colors  cor- 
rectly blended,  to  say  nothing  of  the  pictures  presenting  studies  in  light 
and  shading  dear  to  the  heart  of  the  artist. 

DISPLAY  or  mathematical  and  scientific  instruments. 

The  maker  of  mathematical,  philosophical  and  other  scientific  instru- 
ments has  kept  pace  with  the  spread  of  knowledge  and  the  investigation 
of  scientists.  The  importance  of  this  industry  and  its  leading  position 
were  more  fully  appreciated  when  the  elaborate  displays  by  leading 
manufacturers  were  seen  by  the  public.  An  equatorial  telescope  weigh- 
ing 4,000  pounds  was  one  of  the  most  interesting  items  of  this  display. 

Progress  in  medicine  and  surgery  were  shown  by  an  excellent  exhibit 
of  appliances,  instruments  and  apparatus  for  research  in  these  depart- 
ments. A  complete  modern  hospital,  with  all  of  the  accessories  and 
apparatus  known  to  the  most  advanced  surgery  was  the  most  prominent 
feature  of  this  group. 


178  The  Palace  of  Liberal  Arts 


THE  DEVELOPMENT  OP  THE  PIAKO  SHOWN. 

The  development  of  the  piano  from  the  earliest  days  of  its  history 
to  the  present  time  was  shown  by  a  leading  manufacturer.  Especially 
did  this  retrospective  exhibit  show  the  evolution  of  the  instrument  during 
the  past  century.  The  methods  used  in  the  manufacture  of  a  piano  were 
indicated  by  another  exhibitor,  while  the  automatic  instruments,  which 
have  so  rapidly  developed  in  the  last  ten  years,  were  exceedingly  well 
displayed. 

There  were  marvelous  exhibits  of  band  instruments,  of  cunningly 
wrought  and  invaluable  stringed  instruments,  of  church,  chapel  and  par- 
lor organs,  of  pianos  by  the  most  famous  builders  of  today,  and  some 
positive  novelties  in  music-producing  instruments. 

THE  LARGEST   ORGAN   IN    THE  WORLD. 

In  Festival  Hall,  entered  as  an  exhibit  through  the  Department  of 
Liberal  Arts,  was  the  largest  organ  in  the  world.  It  has  five  manuals 
and  140  speaking  stops,  and  was  itself,  in  truth,  one  of  the  marvels  of  the 
exposition.  This  organ  was  built  by  the  Murray  M.  Harris  Organ  Com- 
pany, of  Los  Angeles,  California,  under  the  W.  B.  Fleming  patents. 

It  is  an  instrument  capable  of  producing  17,179,869,183  distinct  tonal 
effects,  a  continuous  performance  that  would  last  32,600  years  if  a  differ- 
ent one  of  these  combinations  were  drawn  every  minute  in  those  centuries 
of  time. 

The  wonderful  impressiveness  of  its  proportions  and  its  overpower- 
ing volume  of  sound  are  the  least  of  its  remarkable  achievements  in  the 
realm  of  instrumental  music.  That  its  thousands  of  pipes  sound  the  pro- 
foundest  depths  of  the  grand  passions  as  easily  as  the  wind  stirs  the 
leaves  to  fairy  cadences,  is  an  infinitesimal  part  of  its  accomplishments. 

Effects  never  heard  outside  the  grand  orchestra  until  the  manufac- 
ture of  this  colossus,  place  its  expressive  powers  far  in  advance  of  other 
organs.  All  of  the  wood  instruments  of  the  full  band  are  contained 
within  its  vast  compass. 

A  FACTORY  OF  SOUND,  ELECTRICALLY  DRIVEN. 

Large  as  a  brick  block,  62  feet  long,  40  feet  high  and  33  feet  wide,  and 
possessing  140  stops,  239  movements  and  10,059  pipes,  it  overshadows 
the  most  famous  instrument  of  Christendom.     It  cost  approximately 


iThe  Palace  of  Liberal  Aets  179 

$100,000.    Only  the  master  musicians  may  command  its  marvelous  volu- 
bility. 

Two  electric  motors,  each  of  10  horsepower,  drive  this  factory  of 
sound,  the  construction  of  which  required  100,000  feet  of  lumber  and  115 
miles  of  wire.  The  metal  pipes  alone  consumed  16,000  pounds  of  zinc 
and  9,000  pounds  of  soft  metal;  its  wooden  pipes  contain  35,000  feet 
of  California  sugar  pine. 

a  pony  can  pass  theough  the  pipes. 

The  two  pipes  drawing  the  lowest  tones  are  each  32  feet  long;  two 
good  sized  men,  side  by  side,  or  a  small  pony,  can  pass  through  them. 
A  train  of  ten  cars  is  needed  to  transport  this  monster  when  it  is  moved. 

OTHER    WORLD-FAMED    ORGANS. 

The  only  organ  in  the  world  that  even  approaches  this  one  is  the 
immense  instrument  in  the  Town  Hall  at  Sydney,  New  South  Wales,  the 
masterpiece  of  famous  English  builders.  The  Australian  giant  has  128 
stops,  as  compared  with  the  140  stops  of  the  world 's  fair  champion. 

The  next  organs  in  rank  are  those  in  the  cathedral  at  Riga,  Russia, 
with  four  manuals  and  124  stops ;  Albert  Hall,  London,  4  manuals  and 
109  stops ;  Garden  City,  L.  L,  4  manuals  and  115  stops ;  Chicago  Audi- 
torium, 4  manuals  and  111  stops ;  Leeds  Town  Hall,  England,  4  manuals 
and  110  stops;  Seville,  Spain,  3  manuals  and  110  stops;  St.  Sulpice, 
Paris,  5  manuals  and  100  stops;  St.  George's  Hall,  Liverpool,  4  manuals 
and  100  stops,  and  Ulm  Cathedral,  4  manuals  and  100  stops. 

FIVE  ORGANS   COMBINED   IN   ONE. 

Five  separate  organs  are  combined  within  this  enormous  mass  of 
enginery,  electrical  mechanism  and  wind  pressure;  the  first  or  Great 
Organ;  the  second,  or  Choir  Organ;  the  third,  or  Swell  Organ;  the 
fourth,  or  Solo  Organ,  and  the  fifth,  or  Echo  Organ.  The  Echo  Organ 
alone  is  18  feet  wide,  17  feet  high  and  10  feet  deep.  It  has  a  special  bel- 
lows, 12  feet  long  by  4  feet  wide,  operated  by  a  motor  of  one  and  a  half 
horsepower. 

Five  organs  can  be  automatically  played  at  one  time  by  a  double  roll 
self-performing  attachment,  on  a  separate  console  or  key  desk.  This  ar- 
rangement draws  out  the  tremendous  power  and  beauty  of  the  five  organs, 
a  feat  utterly  beyond  the  range  of  human  fingers. 


180  The  Palace  of  Liberal  Arts 

key  desk  worked  by  electric  cable. 

A  movable  console  or  key  desk,  the  only  one  in  the  United  States, 
serves  the  organist  in  playing  the  great  organ.  His  fingers  must  com- 
mand five  manuals  or  key  boards,  making  a  flight  of  five  stairs.  This 
console,  which  is  movable,  is  connected  to  the  organ  by  an  electric  cable, 
150  feet  long.  When  seated  before  the  instrument,  the  musician  must 
dominate  the  five  manual  stairs,  the  140  draw  stop  knobs,  five  tremolant 
draws  and  36  couple  draws,  the  46  push  buttons  belonging  to  the  ad- 
justable combination  system  and  all  the  feet  levers  controlling  the  expres- 
sive powers  of  the  whole  organ. 

THE  ORGANIST   WITH   FOUR  HANDS. 

The  second  or  self-playing  console  is  stationary.  Through  the  agency 
of  the  stationary  key  desk  the  greatest  symphony  orchestra  scores  can  be 
played  verbatim  without  having  to  reduce  the  scope  of  the  composition  to 
bring  it  within  the  range  of  human  fingers.  As  an  illustration  of  its 
superhuman  compass,  it  may  be  said  that  a  full  orchestration  would 
call  for  ten  fingers  on  each  hand.  The  automatic  device  can  perform  it 
just  as  easily  as  any  smaller  number.  A  double  touch  used  in  this  con- 
nection has  never  been  heard  of  before,  producing  effects  precisely  the 
same  as  if  the  organist  had  four  hands,  two  of  which  were  playing  full 
harmony  scores  on  one  manual  while  the  other  two  were  performing  a 
stately  theme  on  the  full  organ. 

\  The  most  sudden  changes  of  tonality  are  instantly  commanded  by  the 
double  touch.  A  slightly  increased  pressure  on  the  keys  by  the  fingers  of 
the  virtuoso  will  add  the  voices  of  any  stops  drawn  from  the  expressive 
division  of  the  instrument,  an  addition  that  can  be  made  to  any  note  or 
group  of  notes  under  the  fingers.  It  is  a  mechanical  expedient  obtained 
in  no  other  existing  organ  in  the  United  States  and  in  no  first-class  con- 
cert organ  in  the  world. 

In  its  mechanical  intricacies,  this  most  marvelous  of  instruments  pre- 
sents the  highest  types  of  organ  building.  Five  swell  boxes,  enclosing 
the  several  organs  combined  in  one  instrument  required  7,500  feet  of 
sugar  pine;  five  automatic  electrical  swell  engines  operate  the  shutters 
of  these  boxes;  5,000  open  circuits  connect  the  various  parts. 

THE  ELECTRICAL  MECHANISM. 

A  motor  generator  supplying  the  storage  batteries  was  arranged  to 
permit  the  playing  of  the  organ  continuously  through  the  entire  period  of 


The  PaIxA.ce  op  Liberal  Aets  181 

the  exposition.  Ah  immense  switchboard  showed  the  voltage  and 
strength  of  the  batteries  at  all  times ;  an  ammeter  showed  the  amount  of 
current  being  used;  a  polarity  indicator  told  whether  the  polarity  was 
right,  and  a  pilot  lamp  indicated  to  a  certain  extent  the  strength  of 
the  batteries.  There  are  1,016  automatic  knobs  for  setting  combinations 
throughout  the  organ,  and  the  instrument  contains  1,300  magnets  for  both 
key  and  draw  stop  actions. 

Five  bellows,  each  measuring  12  feet  long  by  6  feet  wide,  are  operated 
by  the  two  ten-horse  power  motors  of  220  volts,  and  furnish  the  wind 
pressure,  which  is  distributed  to  the  140  speaking  stops  and  10,059  pipes 
through  wind  chests  requiring  20,000  feet  of  lumber  in  their  construction ; 
fhe  bellows  and  regulators  consumed  8,000  feet,  and  the  wind  trunks  an 
additional  2,000  feet. 

MANUAL  AND  PEDAL  DEPARTMENTS. 

The  organ  consists  of  two  departments,  manual  and  pedal,  com- 
manded respectively  by  the  hands  and  feet  of  the  performer.  The  manual 
department,  comprised  of  110  speaking  stops  and  8,907  pipes  of  metal 
and  wood,  is  controlled  by  five  claviers  or  key  boards  of  61  keys  each. 
The  five  claviers  command  the  five  separate  divisions  or  organs. 
The  pedal  organ  is  the  largest  and  most  complete  in  the  world.  It  is 
provided  with  all  the  leading  varieties  of  what  is  technically  known  as  the 
imitative  and  unimitative  tones  furnishing  appropriate  basses  for  all 
classes  of  musical  combinations.  Thirty-six  couplers  when  joined  to  the 
keyboard  produce  28  different  relations.  There  are  eight  pedal  organ 
couplers,  11  unison  couplers,  seven  sub-octave  couplers  and  10  octave 
couplers— an  array  of  couplers  never  before  approached  in  any  organ. 

Thirteen  speaking  stops  in  the  first  sub-division  of  the  Great  Organ 
form  the  foundation  tone  of  the  entire  instrument.  Its  second  sub- 
division, including  the  three  important  reed  stops,  is  capable  of  multiply- 
ing the  tonal  effects  tenfold. 

THE  SWELL  ORGAN  AND  BRASS- WIND  DIVISION. 

The  third  or  swell  organ  introduces  for  the  first  time  the  true  or- 
chestral element  from  which  the  world's  fair  organ  derives  its  advanced 
position  among  the  great  concert  organs.  It  possesses  the  flutes,  piccolo, 
clarinet,  oboe,  corno  di  bassette  fagotto  and  contragetto,  the  horn  and 
violin,  besides  the  human  voice.    Another  division  of  the  swell  has  no 


182  The  Palace  of  Liberal.  Arts 

counterpart.    It  contains  1,281  pipes,  every  one  of  which  is  string  tone. 
Nearly  all  of  these  pipes  are  made  of  pure  tin. 

The  brass-wind  division  is  represented  by  the  solo  organ.  Here  are 
placed  such  stops  as  the  orchestral  flute,  orchestral  clarinet,  orchestral 
trumpet,  trombone,  bass  trombone,  tuba  and  bass  tuba. 

chemical  and  pharmaceutical  laboratories. 

Returning  to  the  Palace  of  Liberal  Arts,  there  were  yet  many  hun- 
dreds of  undescribed  exhibits  that  commanded  the  attention  of  the  visitor. 

In  the  report  of  the  twelfth  census  on  the  chemical  industries  of 
the  United  States,  attention  was  called  to  the  large  amount  of  capital  in- 
vested in  the  business  and  its  rapid  development  during  the  ten  years 
from  1890  to  1900.  The  allotment  of  space  to  exhibitors  in  the  group 
of  Chemical  and  Pharmaceutical  Arts  is  indicative  of  this  rapid  progress. 
A  complete  chemical  laboratory  was  one  feature;  another  showed  how 
perfumery  is  made  from  flowers;  yet  others  displayed  the  products  of 
the  best  laboratories  of  the  country. 

civil  and  military  engineering  illustrated. 

Civil  and  military  engineering,  models,  plans  and  designs  of  public 
works  and  architectural  engineering,  comprising  three  groups,  with  ex- 
cellent displays  by  many  exhibitors,  gave  a  comprehensive  idea  of  the 
great  work  accomplished  by  the  engineers  of  this  country. 

Typical  of  these  groups,  in  the  very  center  of  the  Liberal  Arts  Palace, 
rose  a  reproduction  to  scale  of  the  lighthouse  at  the  Southwest  Pass  of 
the  Mississippi  river.  At  its  base,  surrounding  it  on  every  side,  were  en- 
gineering exhibits  and  apparatus  used  by  engineers,  and  in  that  vicinity 
were  installed  various  kindred  and  related  exhibits. 

A  great  array  of  machinery  used  in  preparing  good  roads  and  streets, 
earth  handling  and  rock-crushing  machinery  of  the  latest  patterns,  and 
new  devices  for  mixing  concrete,  water  purifying  machinery,  filtration 
plants,  etc.,  were  well  displayed. 

Out-of-doors,  in  the  space  between  the  Palace  of  Varied  Industries 
and  the  Palace  of  Transportation,  were  exhibits  of  steam  shovels,  pile 
drivers  and  wrecking  cranes  in  operation.  The  crane  exhibit  was  of  es- 
pecial interest  to  engineers. 

In  a  word,  the  liberal  Arts  Department  by  its  exhibits  fulfilled  com- 
prehensively the  position  given  it  in  the  exposition  exhibit  arrangement. 


The  Pajlace  op  Liberal.  Arts  183 

Its  mission  was  not  only  to  interest  but  to  educate,  and  in  every  instance 
where  it  was  possible,  the  underlying  idea  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Ex- 
position, ''life  and  motion,"  was  carried  out. 

BROAD  AND  INTERESTING  BRITISH  EXHIBIT. 

The  British  Kingdom  arranged  a  very  complete  and  comprehensive 
display  of  products  called  for  by  the  Liberal  Arts  classification.  It  in- 
cluded a  large  collective  exhibit  of  specimens  of  typography  and  books 
by  the  very  best  English  printers  and  publishers.  Photography,  now  so 
important  a  factor  in  the  life  of  every  civilized  nation,  was  represented 
by  an  elaborate  exhibit,  including  specimens  of  historic  photographs  from 
Sir  Benjamin  Stone,  M.  P.,  and  other  important  collections. 

Especially  important  and  interesting  was  the  exhibit  in  the  realm  of 
chemistry.  There  were  many  models,  plans  and  photographs  of  great 
engineering  public  works,  including  models  of  light  houses,  a  model  of 
the  Assouan  dam,  and  a  most  interesting  exhibit  of  geographical  maps 
from  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  including  exhibits  by  the  Palestine, 
Egyptian  and  Cretan  Exploration  Funds,  and  maps  from  the  Imperial 
surveys.  The  British  mint  showed  a  most  interesting  collection  of  ancient 
and  modern  coins,  medals  and  seals. 

SOLIDIFICATION   OP   HYDROGEN    BY  PROPESSOR.  DEWAR. 

Possibly  the  most  interesting  exhibit  in  the  British  section  was  that 
of  Professor  Dewar,  whose  conspicuous  achievements  in  the  liquefaction 
and  solidification  of  hydrogen,  and  the  remarkable  results  which  he  has 
obtained  by  his  experiments  are  all  matters  of  common  knowledge  to 
scientists.  The  Liberal  Arts  Committee  of  the  Eoyal  Commission  ar- 
ranged a  collective  exhibit  illustrative  of  the  work  done  in  low  tempera- 
ture investigations  embracing  the  recent  achievements  of  that  eminent 
scientist.  A  complete  working  plant,  practically  a  duplicate  of  that 
employed  at  the  Royal  Institution,  capable  of  making  two  liters  of  liquid 
hydrogen,  was  constructed  under  the  superintendence  of  Professor  Dewar 
in  London,  and  erected  at  the  exposition.  Periodical  demonstrations  were 
made  of  the  properties  of  liquid  hydrogen  and  the  separation  of  helium, 
etc.,  from  gas  mixtures ;  phosphorescence,  photographic  action,  luminosity 
of  radium  in  liquified  hydrogen,  electric  crystals,  direct  liquefaction  and 
solidification  of  air  and  oxygen,  the  solidification  of  hydrogen  and  the 
production  of  the  lowest  temperature  obtained,  i.  e.,  —259  degrees  Centi- 
grade. 


184  The  Palace  of  Liberal  Arts 

In  the  space  allotted  to  France  in  the  Department  of  Liberal  Arts, 
that  nation  was  given  ample  opportunity  for  a  most  generous  display  and 
the  exhibit  in  the  French  section  was  not  only  of  enormous  value  but  im- 
portant and  interesting. 

Germany's  exposition  of  printing,  photography,  hygiene,  etc. 

The  German  Empire  occupied  a  generous  amount  of  space  in  the 
Palace  of  Liberal  Arts.  Especially  interesting  was  the  exhibit  of  print- 
ing from  the  German  Imperial  Office,  and  publications  of  the  German 
book-trade,  specimens  of  artistic  photography  and  numerous  geographical 
maps ;  models,  plans  and  designs  of  public  works  and  other  evidences  of 
the  achievements  by  famous  German  engineers  in  river  improvements, 
canals,  etc.,  which  was  especially  arranged  for  the  Universal  Exposition 
by  the  Prussian  Minister  of  Public  Works.  The  Imperial  Board  of 
Health  organized  a  hygienic  exhibition.  In  the  manufacture  of  paper  and 
chemicals,  of  scientific  instruments,  and  of  artificial  textiles,  Germany 
was  splendidly  represented. 

argentine  and  MEXICO   WELL  REPRESENTED. 

Argentine,  while  not  occupying  so  great  a  space  as  any  of  the  fore- 
going countries,  demonstrated  by  many  relief  maps,  albums  of  photo- 
graphs, models  of  docks  and  public  works,  the  great  improvements  which 
her  engineers  have  made  in  the  rivers  and  harbors  of  this  most  progres- 
sive South  American  country. 

Mexico  surprised  the  world  by  the  excellence  of  her  exhibits  in  typo- 
graphy, chemical  production  and  engineering  works,  while  Italy  and 
Siam  presented  displays  of  absorbing  interest. 

china's  COMPLETE,  FANTASTIC  SHOWING. 

China's  principal  exhibit  was  made  in  this  great  building.  From  the 
nation  where  printing  and  the  making  of  books  was  many  hundred  years 
old  before  Guttenberg  discovered  his  movable  types,  came  specimens  of 
early  printing,  ancient  manuscripts,  works  of  ancient  carvers  in  wood 
and  jade,  trophies  from  her  temples  and  palaces,  ancient  and  fantastic 
armor  and  weapons  of  war  old  in  the  days  of  Confucius  and  still  in  use, 
costumes  from  widely  separated  provinces  of  the  Empire,  musical  in- 
struments strange  in  shape  and  weird  in  tone,  together  with  concrete 
evidences  of  China 's  recent  advancement  toward  closer  relationship  with 


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The  Paiace  of  Liberal  Arts  193 

other  countries  and  her  development  as  a  commercial  nation.  While  all 
of  these  things  were  not  in  strict  conformity  with  the  classification  for  the 
Liberal  Arts  Department,  it  was  the  best  judgment  of  the  Exposition 
Exhibits  Division,  since  this  was  the  first  time  in  the  history  of  exposi- 
tions that  the  Celestial  Empire  had  participated  as  a  nation,  that  the 
entire  exhibit  should  be  shown  in  a  single  great  section  of  one  of  the 
exhibit  palaces.  Hence  the  entire  installation  in  the  Liberal  Arts  De- 
partment. 

COLONEL  JOHN   O.   OCKERSON,   CHIEF  OP  THE  DEPARTMENT. 

This  important  department  was  given  over  to  the  management  of 
Colonel  John  0.  Ockerson,  who  is  one  of  the  well  known  engineers  of 
the  United  States.  Born  in  Sweden,  he  was  reared  in  Central  Illinois. 
At  fifteen  he  was  a  soldier  in  the  Union  army,  and  in  1873  graduated  from 
the  University  of  Illinois,  Champaign,  in  Civil  and  Mining  Engineering. 
Afterward  he  was  engaged  in  engineering  work  on  the  Great  Lakes,  also 
as  engineer  with  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railway,  and  in  1876 
was  sent  to  South  Pass  to  make  surveys  on  the  Mississippi  improvements 
under  the  Eads  contract.  Since  the  winter  of  1877-8  he  has  been  almost 
continuously  connected  with  the  engineering  work  on  the  Mississippi 
river,  and  was  with  the  Mississippi  River  Commission  from  1879  until 
1886.  For  three  years  he  was  manager  and  engineer  of  a  large  mine 
in  Colorado.  In  1889  he  became  principal  assistant  engineer  for  the  Mis- 
sissippi River  Commission.  In  August,  1898,  he  was  appointed  a  mem- 
ber of  that  commission,  and  holds  that  position  at  the  present  time.  He 
was  a  member  of  the  International  Jury  of  Awards  at  the  Paris  Exposi- 
tion of  1900,  was  United  States  Delegate  to  the  International  Congress  of 
Merchant  Marine  and  to  the  International  Congress  of  Navigation,  both 
held  in  Paris  that  year.  For  an  elaborate  paper  on  the  improvement  of 
the  Mississippi  river  and  other  distinguished  services  rendered  at  the 
Paris  exposition,  a  decoration  was  awarded  him  by  the  French  govern- 
ment. 

Colonel  Ockerson  was  appointed  Chief  of  the  Department  of  Liberal 
Arts  in  January,  1902.  His  frequent  contributions  to  engineering  litera- 
ture are  well  and  favorably  known  both  at  home  and  abroad.  His  ex- 
haustive studies  of  matters  relating  to  water  transportation  have  made 
him  universally  regarded  as  a  very  high  authority  on  river  and  harbor 
improvements. 


194  The  Palace  of  Liberal,  Arts 


SALIENT  features   OP   THE   DEPARTMENT. 

It  may  be  said  that  with  the  exceptions  of  Music  the  grand  classes 
of  the  department  of  Liberal  Arts  represented  a  practical  phase  of  life. 
And  since  physicians  and  scientists  have  trumpeted  the  praises  of 
Music  as  a  cure  for  various  nervous  disorders,  that  may  even  be 
brought  under  the  head  of  Personal  Hygiene  and  given  a  practical 
stam]3. 

Printing  and  its  closely  allied  art,  Photography,  enjoyed  a  most 
magnificent  exposition,  especially  through  the  intelligent  enthusiasm 
of  the  United  States  and  Germany.  The  art  of  illustrating  in  the 
half-tone  process  was  also  exhibited  by  means  of  many  complete  and 
superb  displays.  This  process,  which  is  such  a  fascinating  combination 
of  photography  and  chemical  engraving,  has  been  the  great  means  of 
encouraging  the  reading  of  good  literature  by  making  it  attractive  to 
the  eye,  and  may  be  considered  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  educa- 
tional and  liberal  arts  of  the  day. 

Civil  and  Military  Engineering  showed  how  great  improvements 
had  been  made  and  were  still  progressing  in  the  physical  world;  how 
man  was  molding  the  material  universe  for  his  own  comfort,  safety, 
protection  and  enjoyment.  The  engineering  plans  carried  to  a 
triumphant  conclusion  for  furthering  commerce,  protecting  the  coasts 
and  inland  waters  from  possible  foes,  and  safeguarding  the  lives  of 
great  municipalities,  were  clearly  elaborated  and  formed  a  vast  fund 
of  instructive  material. 

A  careful  study  of  this  department  was  of  itself  little  less  than  a 
liberal  education,  but  broad  intelligence  was  required  to  obtain  the 
greatest  possible  benefit  from  it. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

THE,    PALACE,    OF    MACHINERY 

A  Tremendous  Plant — Pan-American  Cast  in  the  Shade — Chief  of  Department  Described — 
Wonders  in  the  Eealm  of  Machinery — An  Enormous  Steam  Plant — ^Disposing  of  the 
Smoke — Interesting  Array  of  Exhibits — Pumps  that  Move  a  Plood— Some  of  the  Won- 
ders Shown — Make-Up  of  Intramural  System — Fire-Proof  Steam  Building — Steam  Me- 
ters Displayed — Gorgeous  Illumination  of  the  Fair — Distant  View  Described — Music 
Adds  to  this  Transport  of  Delight. 

IT  IS  very  difficult  to  grasp  the  full  meaning  conveyed  in  the  infor- 
mation that  the  Universal  Exposition  of  1904  required  for  its  op- 
eration a  total  of  something  over  45,000  horse  power.  Very  few  people 
understand  the  importance  of  this  statement.  There  are  in  existence 
today  but  two  power  plants  larger  than  the  power  plant  of  the  Louisiana 
Purchase  Exposition.  One  of  these  is  the  Manhattan  Elevated  Railway 
Power  Plant  in  New  York,  and  the  other  is  the  Metropolitan  Street 
Railway  Plant,  also  in  New  York. 

The  power  required  for  lighting,  pumping,  and  for  operating  con- 
cessions and  exhibits  at  the  St.  Louis  world's  fair  was  about  two  and 
one-half  times  the  total  power  required  for  lighting  the  streets  of  the 
city  of  Chicago.  An  engine  horse  power  is  really  one-fifth  greater  than 
the  average  power  of  the  ordinary  draught  horse  working  eight  hours 
daily;  consequently  the  work  performed  by  the  power  plant  of  this 
exposition  closely  approximates  the  performance  of  fifty-four  thousand 
horses.  Fifty-four  thousand  horses  harnessed  in  spaces  of  ten  feet  from 
head  to  head  would  make  a  line  over  one  hundred  and  two  miles  long— 
a  distance  somewhat  greater  than  from  New  York  to  Philadelphia,  or 
Chicago  to  Elkhart. 

A  TEEMENDOUS  PLANT. 

But  45,000  horse  power  did  not  represent  the  total,  for  there  was  an 
overload  or  reserve  capacity  of  at  least  25  per  cent  which  could  be 
counted  upon  whenever  it  was  needed  for  a  limited  period  of  time.  This 
represents  a  working  force  equal  to  a  line  of  horses  one  hundred  and 

195 


196  The  Palace  op  Machineey 

twenty-eight  miles  long,  or  reaching  from  St.  Louis  to  Jefferson  City, 
or  from  Boston  to  Hartford. 

PAN-AMERICAN   CAST  IN  THE  SHADE, 

A  great  deal  has  been  said  and  written  about  the  power  developed 
at  Niagara  Falls,  and  it  is  interesting  to  know  that  the  total  capacity 
of  the  Niagara  Falls  power  plant,  at  the  time  of  the  Pan-American  Ex- 
position, was  twenty-five  thousand  horse  power.  Of  this  about  one-fifth, 
or  five  thousand  horse  power,  was  used  for  the  decorative  lighting  of 
that  exposition.  Since  then  the  capacity  of  the  Niagara  power  plant  has 
been  doubled,  and  it  now  stands  at  fifty  thousand  horse  power.  The 
St.  Louis  exposition,  therefore,  had  available  nearly  eleven  times  the 
amount  of  power  delivered  to  the  Pan-American  Exposition  by  the 
Niagara  Falls  plant,  and  something  over  four  thousand  horse  power 
greater  than  the  total  capacity  of  that  famous  power  plant. 

The  power  plant  of  the  exposition  occupied  practically  all  of  the 
western  half  of  Machinery  Hall,  a  space  about  six  hundred  feet  long  by 
three  hundred  feet  wide.  In  this  space  the  engines  and  generators  were 
installed  in  a  most  attractive  manner,  and  these  prime  movers  repre- 
sented the  best  engineering  ability  not  only  of  America,  but  of  England, 
France  and  Germany. 

CHIEF  OP  DEPARTMENT  DESCRIBED. 

At  the  head  of  this  great  plant,  and  the  extensive  machinery  exhibit 
of  which  it  formed  a  part,  was  Thomas  Morrell  Moore,  a  native  of  New 
York.  Mr.  Moore  was  educated  at  Rutgers  college,  New  Brunswick,  N. 
J.  He  traveled  extensively  in  Europe,  Africa  and  South  America  and 
is  a  well  known  contributor  to  American  and  foreign  journals.  His  first 
experience  in  exposition  work  was  in  connection  with  the  Pan-American 
Exposition.  There  he  was  originally  given  charge  of  the  Machinery 
department,  but  at  later  periods  was  given  the  management  of  the  de- 
partments of  Transportation,  Exhibits,  Agricultural  Implements, 
Graphic  Arts  and  Ordnance,  or  five  exhibit  divisions,  which  occupied 
seven  of  the  fourteen  exhibit  buildings  in  that  exposition. 

He  was  appointed  chief  of  the  Department  of  Machinery,  Universal 
Exposition  of  1904,  in  February,  1902,  and  at  once  entered  upon  the  dis- 
charge of  his  duties  in  an  energetic  manner. 


The  PaIjACE  of  Machinery  197 


WONDERS  IN  THE  REALM  OF  MACHINERY. 

In  the  palaces  of  Macliinery  and  Electricity  at  the  Louisiana  Pur- 
chase Exposition  could  be  seen  the  most  startling  proofs  of  man's  recent 
conquests  in  harnessing  and  controlling  the  forces  of  nature. 

Picture  a  building  covering  400,000  square  feet,  which  is  about  the 
size  of  four  city  blocks.  Within,  allot  one-half  the  space  to  great  en- 
gines of  all  descriptions,  nearly  every  one  larger  than  the  famed  Corliss 
type,  which  at  the  Philadelphia  Centennial,  was  considered  a  wonder 
of  the  world. 

Draw  a  mental  picture  of  a  three-story  house  with  a  frontage  of  twen- 
ty-five feet,  a  depth  of  sixty  feet,  a  basement  and  a  sub-cellar.  Now, 
remove  this  house  in  its  entirety  and  the  space  will  be  barely  sufficient 
for  the  5,000-horse  power  reciprocating  steam  engine,  weighing  over 
500  tons  which  headed  the  procession  of  giant  motors. 

Next  in  line  was  a  gas  engine  that  produced  1,750  horse  power,  an 
exhibit  from  Germany,  and  near  at  hand  were  a  host  of  wonderful  high- 
speed engines,  manufactured  in  different  parts  of  the  United  States. 

A  tangential  water  wheel,  operated  by  liquid  forced  through  a  noz- 
zle at  the  rate  of  1,200  gallons  a  minute,  under  a  pressure  of  300  pounds 
to  the  square  inch,  which  terrific  force  whirled  the  great  wheel  at  the  rate 
of  900  revolutions  a  minute,  was  another  sight. 

A  mammoth  steam  turbine,  generating  8,000  horse  power,  was  neigh- 
bor to  another  of  the  same  style  that  generated  5,000  horse  power. 

The  steam  turbine  that,  under  normal  conditions,  can  develop  8,000 
horse  power,  can,  when  pushed,  produce  the  enormous  force  of  12,000 
horse  power.  Think  what  that  means— a  string  of  horses,  harnessed 
tandem,  working  close  together,  covering  a  straightaway  road  twenty- 
three  miles  long. 

AN  ENORMOUS  STEAM  PLANT. 

The  steam  for  the  operation  of  the  various  engines  exhibited  was  gener- 
ated in  the  Steam,  Gas  and  Fuels  building,  a  fireproof  structure  three 
hundred  and  thirty  feet  long  by  three  hundred  feet  wide,  located  about 
one  hundred  feet  distant  from  Machiney  Hall.  The  pipe  lines,  convey- 
ing the  steam  from  the  boilers  to  the  engines  and  returning  the  con- 
densed water  back  to  the  boilers  from  the  condensers,  occupied  a  tunnel 
seven  feet  broad  and  eight  feet  deep.     One  of  these  steam  lines  was 


198  The  Palace  op  Machineey 

eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  another  sixteen  inches  in  diameter,  and 
none  less  than  ten  inches.  When  the  boilers  operated  at  full  load  they 
evaporated  something  over  seven  hundred  thousand  pounds  of  water  per 
hour.  This  means  that  three  hundred  and  fifty  tons  of  water  were  hourly 
changed  into  steam,  jDassed  through  the  engines,  returned  to  the  form  of 
water  by  passing  through  huge  condensers,  and  then  re-delivered  to  the 
boilers  to  be  again  transformed  into  live  steam. 

DISPOSING  OF  THE  SMOKE. 

Owing  to  the  central  location  of  the  Steam,  Gas  and  Fuels  building, 
it  would  have  been  unsightly  to  avail  of  the  tall  smoke  stacks  required 
for  the  operation  of  the  boilers  under  natural  draught,  consequently  the 
draught  had  to  be  created  by  huge  fans.  The  weight  of  this  apparatus 
alone  closely  approximated  three  hundred  tons.  A  number  of  the  fans 
were  twenty  feet  in  diameter  and  for  driving  them  independent  engines 
were  provided.  To  avoid  the  smoke  nuisance  the  boilers  were  equipped 
with  mechanical  stokers.  These  mechanical  stokers  were  automatically 
supplied  with  coal  by  a  conveyor  system  which  took  the  coal  from  the 
cars,  crushed  it  and  delivered  it  into  ten  and  twenty  ton  hoppers  directly 
in  front  of  the  various  batteries  of  boilers. 

INTEEESTII^G  ARRAY  OF  EXHIBITS. 

The  eastern  end  of  Machiney  Hall  was  given  up  to  exhibits  of  ma- 
chine tools  and  wood-working  machinery  and  the  accessories  which  are 
employed  in  power-plant  and  machine-shop  practice.  A  most  interest- 
ing exhibit  was  an  hydraulic  press,  built  at  the  Krupp  works,  in  Essen, 
Germany.  This  press  exerts  the  enormous  pressure  of  ninety  thousand 
pounds  to  the  square  inch.  It  is  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  em- 
bossing metals,  and  it  performs  this  function  by  the  direct  action  of  the 
water  on  the  metals  to  be  embossed. 

The  range  in  machine  tools— that  is,  in  tools  for  cutting,  forming 
and  manipulating  metals— ranged  from  the  small  machines  for  working 
out  the  tiny  screws,  bolts  and  gears  of  a  watch  to  the  huge  lathes  for 
turning  the  largest  cannon  or  the  shafting  for  an  ocean  liner. 

ENORMOUS  METAL  AND   WOOD-WORKING   MACHINES. 

Some  of  the  machines  for  planing  metal  were  over  seventy-five  feet 
long  and  eighteen  feet  wide,  covering  an  area  larger  than  the  floor  plan 


The  Palace  of  Machinery  199 

of  an  ordinary  residence.  In  the  wood-working  section  the  display  was 
exhaustive  and  showed  machines  capable  of  performing  the  most  deli- 
cate grill  work,  and  from  these  led  up  to  the  massive  machines  for  trans- 
forming into  merchantable  lumber  the  giant  trees  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 

VAIiUED  AT  A   king's  EANSOM. 

The  total  value  of  the  exhibits  in  Machinery  Hall  and  the  Steam, 
Gas  and  Fuels  building  exceeded  eight  millions  of  dollars.  The  most 
massive  and  powerful  engine  with  its  electric  generator  weighed  over  six 
hundred  tons,  and  this  generating  set  complete  with  boilers,  mechanical 
draught  and  stoker  equipment,  condensers  and  accessories  weighed  over 
one  thousand  tons.  The  total  weight  of  the  exhibits  was  over  sixty  thou- 
sand tons. 

PUMPS  THAT   MOVE  A  FLOOD. 

The  Machinery  Department  furnished  as  an  exhibit  the  three  pumps 
which  delivered  the  water  to  flow  over  the  Cascades.  The  capacity  of 
these  pumps  was  at  normal  load  ninety  thousand  gallons  per  minute, 
but  they  were  planned  to  take  care  of  an  overload  of  over  twenty-five  per 
cent,  which  brought  their  maximum  capacity  up  to  one  hundred  and 
fifteen  thousand  gallons  of  water  per  minute.  They  did  this  against  a 
total  head  of  one  hundred  and  fifty-eight  feet.  Large  volumes  of  water 
have  been  handled  to  a  lesser  elevation,  but  no  such  amount  of  water  has 
ever  been  artificially  moved  to  such  a  height  as  was  required  in  the  Cas- 
cades of  this  exposition. 

It  is  stated  that  the  average  daily  consumption  of  water  for  all  pur- 
poses by  the  entire  city  of  St.  Louis  is  about  sixty-five  million  gallons. 
The  Cascade  pumps  of  the  Universal  Exposition  of  1904  were  capable 
of  handling  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  million  gallons  of  water  daily; 
that  is,  one  hundred  million  gallons  more  than  the  entire  city  of  St. 
Louis  uses  per  day. 

SOME  OF  THE  WONDEES  SHOWN". 

The  Exhibitors'  Power  Plant  at  the  St.  Louis  exposition  was  com- 
posed of  items  furnished  by  more  than  ninety  engineering  firms,  amongst 
whom  were  many  of  the  leading  companies  of  the  United  States,  as  well 
as  several  European  countries.  A  unique  feature  of  this  installation 
was  the  tangential  water-wheel  exhibited  by  the  Abner  Doble  Co.,  of  San 
Francisco;  this  wheel,  developing  160  B.  H.  P.  at  700  revolutions  per 


200  '  The  Palace  of  Machinery 

minute,  was  directly  connected  to  a  100  K.  W.  generator;  water  for 
driving  the  wheel  was  furnished  at  a  pressure  of  300  pounds  per  square 
inch  by  a  triple  expansion  condensing  pump  from  the  Janesville  Iron 
Works.  The  other  exhibitors  in  connection  with  the  water-wheel  unit, 
together  with  the  items  furnished,  were  as  follows:  Builders'  Iron 
Foundry,  Venturi  meter;  Lombard  Governor  Com^pany,  governor  and 
relief  valve;  Schaffer  &  Budenberg  Mfg.  Company,  tachometer  and 
pressure  gage ;  A¥.  H.  Nicholson  &  Co.,  combination  steam  separator,  re- 
ceiver and  trap;  Fisher  Governor  Company,  steam  pump  governor; 
Greene,  Tweed  &  Co.,  lubricators;  Holmes  Metallic  Packing  Company, 
metallic  packing. 

MAKE-UP  OF   INTEAMUEAL   SYSTEM. 

The  second  group  of  the  Intramural  System  consisted  of  a  1,400  horse 
power  cross  compound  Buckeye  engine  with  cylinders  26  1-2  in.  and 
50  in.  by  48  in,  direct  connected  to  a  900  K.  W.  generator  operating  at 
100  revolutions  per  minute,  together  with  two  Brown-Corliss  vertical 
cross  compound  engines,  cylinders  18  in.  and  36  in.  by  36  in,,  revolutions 
per  minute  135,  each  direct  connected  to  a  500  K.  W.  generator. 

The  Wheeler  Condenser  &  Engineering  Company  furnished  for  this 
group  an  Admiralty  type  of  surface  condenser,  with  pumps,  complete. 
This  condenser  also  took  care  of  the  exhaust  steam  from  a  Greenwald 
600  horse  power  cross  compound  engine,  which  was  direct  connected 
to  a  Fort  Wayne  Electric  Works'  400  K.  W.  250  volt  D.  C.  generator. 

FIEE-PEOOF   STEAM   BUILDING. 

A  separate  tire-proof  building  was  provided  for  the  installation  of 
boilers,  gas  generating  plants,  briquette  machinery,  and  other  apparatus 
for  use  in  connection  with  boilers  and  fuels.  The  exhibitors'  boilers 
have  a  rated  capacity  of  more  than  tifteen  thousand  boiler  horse  power, 
this  being  provided  by  a  number  of  different  varieties,  but  all  of  the 
water  tube  type. 

The  largest  installation  was  that  made  by  the  Aultman  &  Taylor 
Machinery  Company,  who  furnished  sixteen  horizontal  and  three  verti- 
cal Cahall  boilers  with  a  total  rating  of  over  eight  thousand  horse  power. 
The  horizontal  boilers  were  installed  in  batteries  of  two  each;  two  of 
these  batteries  are  designed  for  a  steam  pressure  of  225  pounds  per 
square  inch  and  supply  steam  for  the  operation  of  the  turbines,  the 
steam  being  delivered  at  throttles  with  pressure  of  185  pounds. 


The  Palace  of  Machineey  201 


STEAM  METERS  DISPLAYED. 

An  exhibit  of  considerable  interest  was  contributed  by  the  American 
Steam  Meter  Companj^-j  of  Cliicago,  consisting  of  a  steam  meter  in  pipe 
line  to  boiler  feed  pumps,  this  meter  being  provided  with  a  dial  to  regis- 
ter actual  quantity  of  steam  used  regardless  of  pressure. 

In  addition  to  the  power  supplied  by  the  Exhibitors'  Power  Plant 
there  were  eight  thousand  kilowatts  of  electrical  power  produced  by  the 
Exposition  Power  Plant,  in  Machinery  Plall.  A  large  number  of  ex- 
hibitors showed  their  machinery  in  operation  so  that  the  total  output 
amounted  to. more  than  thirty-five  thousand  horse  power  produced  by 
what  was  undoubtedly  the  most  interesting  power  plant  ever  established. 

GOEGEOUS  ILLUMINATION  OF  THE  FAIR. 

Directly  identified  with  this  department  was  the  problem  of  illumi- 
nation of  grounds,  buildings  and  exhibits.  It  was  a  rare  occasion  when 
first  the  bud  of  electric  illumination  at  the  world's  fair  burst  into  blos- 
som, and  after  that  first  night  of  informal  rehearsal,  every  time  that  the 
lights  were  turned  on  was  a  delightful  occasion  to  those  privileged  to 
be  present. 

It  was  best  to  see  the  illumination  at  first  from  a  considerable  dis- 
tance. One  should  have  obtained  his  first  glimpse  of  this  magnified 
fairyland  from  outside  of  the  grounds,  or  at  any  rate  from  a  point  a 
mile  or  so  away  from  the  ''Main  Picture,"  which  was  the  center  of  the 
illuminative  features.  The  night  should  have  been  dark,  with  neither 
moon  nor  stars  visible,  but  free  from  clouds,  so  that  the  lights  be  not 
dimmed  by  the  misty  haze. 

DISTANT  VIEW  DESCRIBED. 

Riding  around  a  curve  on  a  trolley  car,  or  topping  the  brow  of  a  hill, 
one  suddenly  became  aware  of  something  wonderful  in  the  distance,  a 
mighty  bouquet  of  light  blossoming  out  of  the  darkness.  Imagine  your- 
self as  again  there.  For  half  a  mile  the  flowers  of  light  sparkle  in  the 
murk— clear,  clean-cut,  golden.  The  distance  not  only  lends  enchant- 
ment to  the  view,  but  mellows  the  scene  to  a  soft  glow,  soothing  to  the 
eyes.  One  beholds  glowing  through  the  darkness,  long  lines  of  little 
lights,  broken  here  and  there  into  fantastic  designs.  Now  a  huge  star 
breaks  out,  made  of  many  lights.    Yonder  is  circle  after  circle  of  gleam- 


202  The  Palace  of  Machinery 

ing  brilliancies,  far  up  in  the  sky.  Still  higher  up  is  outlined  a  skele- 
ton framework  of  lights,  and  you  know  that  it  is  the  illumination  of  a 
tower,  though  you  see  nothing  whatever  of  the  tower  itself. 

Lower  down  are  parallel  rows  of  lamps,  in  parallelogram  form,  lead- 
ing hundreds  of  yards  horizontally,  and  sixty  or  seventy  feet  perpen- 
dicularly, the  perpendiculars  crossing  the  other  lines  at  frequent  in- 
tervals, and  ending  in  circles  and  diamonds  and  squares  and  crosses. 
You  know  that  this  is  the  outline  of  one  of  the  mighty  exhibit  palaces, 
but  you  see  nothing  of  the  building  itself.  A  glorious  archway  in  elec- 
tric lights  marks  a  main  entrance,  and  overhead  a  curious  arrangement 
of  lamps  suggests  a  gigantic  statue  or  a  mighty  pediment  of  reclining 
figures,  though  there  is  nothing  visible  of  the  statuary  staff. 

If  you  are  familiar  with  the  shapes  of  the  buildings,  you  can  dis- 
tinguish one  from  another  by  these  lights.  The  classic  pillars  on  the 
colonnade  of  the  Palace  of  Varied  Industries  flash  themselves  into  fiery 
outline.  The  massive  pylons  at  each  end  of  the  Palace  of  Transporta- 
tion are  told  forth  in  the  living  language  of  the  lamps.  The  Palace  of 
Electricity  is  a  gleaming  telltale  ghost  of  its  own  glories  of  architecture. 

view  op  the  piece  de  resistance. 

Yonder,  high  up  on  Art  Hill,  rises  in  lines  of  lights  converging  to  a 
common  center  the  illumination  that  marks  Festival  Hall  and  its  won- 
derful dome,  and  just  below  are  the  great  fountains  and  the  Cascades, 
leading  down  to  the  Grand  Basin  and  the  lagoons,  which  are  spanned 
by  bridges  outlined  in  electric  glow.  At  each  side  on  the  hilltop,  lights 
lead  the  vision  along  the  Colonnade  of  States  to  the  towering  twin  pa- 
vilions, with  their  lesser  domes  flanking  Festival  Hall. 

Away  down  in  the  center  of  the  bouquet  of  brilliance  you  behold  a 
single  flower  rising  above  the  rest,  and  you  know  that  the  name  of  this 
slender  stalk  is  Louisiana  Purchase  Monument.  It  is  time  now  that  you 
come  nearer  to  the  picture.  As  you  approach,  the  darkness  gradually 
melts  from  the  vicinity  of  the  little  lamps,  and  you  perceive  the  ivory- 
tinted  exteriors  of  the  huge  buildings,  glowing  in  the  light  of  thousands 
of  lamps.  Stepping  into  the  edges  of  the  main  picture,  you  are  en- 
tranced by  the  scene.  Lagoons  and  plazas  and  broad  thoroughfares  for 
promenade  are  made  as  bright  as  day.  Thousands  of  people  pass  along 
the  promenade,  stand  upon  the  bridges,  or  float  in  the  many  gondolas. 
You  are  in  fairyland  indeed! 


The  Palace  of  Machinery  203 


MUSIC  ADDS  TO  THIS  TKANSPOKT  OF  DELIGHT. 

Suddenly  the  scene  changes.  Sound  lends  its  magic  to  the  aid  of 
light.  From  the  Festival  Hall  pour  forth  the  harmonies  of  the  mighty 
pipe  organ.  Orchestras  here  and  there,  in  picturesque  pavilions,  make 
tender  melodies. 

And  then  the  golden  glow  of  the  lights  on  Festival  Hall,  and  the 
fountains  and  Cascades  is  changed  to  other  hues,  now  red,  now  blue, 
now  violet,  now  a  variegated  brilliance,  including  all  the  colors  of  the 
prism,  and  the  waters  of  the  leaping  fountains  and  plunging  cascades 
blossom  like  flowers,  and  the  green  sward  on  the  slopes  of  Art  Hill  be- 
comes a  plain  of  fire,  and  the  flower  beds  take  on  fantastic  hues.  The 
lights  change  and  change  in  bewildering  variety. 

Then,  from  the  great  German  Castle  on  the  hill,  peal  forth  the  chimes 
of  deep-toned  bells,  resonant  and  clear,  and  the  susceptible  young  damsel 
in  the  Venetian  gondola  under  the  bridge  goes  into  exclamations  of 
ecstacy,  but  the  soberer-minded  folk  remove  their  hats,  and  stand  silent, 
awed  by  the  magnificent  expression  of  the  genius  of  man  working  with 
the  wonders  that  God  has  wrought. 

And  all  this  feast  of  light  and  flame  and  color  can  be  traced  back 
by  the  simple  operation  of  thought  to  the  ponderous  engines  that  throb 
in  the  Machinery  building  and  the  dynamos  that  grind  in  the  Palace  of 
Electricity.  And  the  thought  itself  reminds  us  that  ours  is  the  Age  of 
Machinery  as  well  as  the  Age  of  Electricity,  also  recalling  that  prophecy 
that  before  many  years  shall  pass  steam  as  a  motive  and  motor  power  is 
to  be  replaced  by  the  more  subtle  and  equally  effective  agent.  The  won- 
derful versatility  of  electricity  was  in  no  way  more  fully  illustrated  than 
in  the  fact  that  it  not  only  operated  so  large  a  portion  of  the  ponderous 
machinery  in  this  palace,  but  also  produced  these  countless  fairy  visions 
of  light,  flame  and  color. 

THE  HEAET  OF  THE  EXPOSITION. 

From  the  Palace  of  Machinery  went  forth  the  power  which  main- 
tained the  life  of  the  entire  exposition.  It  gave  it  light.  Every  one  of 
the  thousands  of  exhibits  which  required  motion  for  its  effective  display 
received  its  inspiration  from  Machinery  hall.  Had  its  great  engines 
ceased  for  a  minute  after  the  fall  of  night  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Expo- 
sition would  have  been  a  city  of  gloom  filled  with  sudden  panic.     No 


204  The  Palace  of  Machineky 

wonder  it  was  christened  the  Heart  of  the  Exposition,  jDumping  as  it  did 
a  thousand  life-giving  currents  through  the  vast  body  of  the  world's  fair. 

The  concentration  of  architectural  beauties  and  grandeurs,  and  the 
scenic  charms  around  Festival  hall  and  the  Cascades,  might  earn  for 
that  locality  the  title  of  the  Face  of  the  Fair ;  but  what  would  become  of 
the  bright,  rosy,  speaking  charms  of  the  Face  without  the  action  of  the 
Heart  to  maintain  its  current  of  life !  The  hall  would  be  a  gloomy  pile, 
and  the  Cascades  thus  only  in  name.  Power  was  the  basis  of  the  light 
and  beauty  of  the  fair,  as  it  is  of  the  intellectual  and  artistic  life  of  to-day. 

Looking  at  the  subject  from  this  point  of  view,  far  more  sentiment 
and  national  pride  could  be  extracted  from  every  square  foot  of  the 
Palace  of  Machinery  than  from  any  building  of  the  exposition,  not  even 
excepting  the  Palace  of  Fine  Arts.  It  was  an  epitome  of  America  as  it 
is  to-day,  not  as  it  may  be  one  hundred  years  hence. 

To  the  average  citizen  of  America  the  clangor  of  the  mighty  engines 
was  like  the  deep  note  of  a  mighty  organ  to  the  musician,  or  the  vast 
swing  of  an  epic  to  the  poet.  His  heart  swelled  within  him  as  the  com- 
bined buzz  of  a  thousand  machines  swelled  into  a  roar  like  the  ocean  surf. 
Practical  man  that  he  was,  he  also  knew  that  the  industrial  wealth  repre- 
sented by  the  Palace  of  Machinery  was  forming  a  substantial  basis  for 
the  development  of  the  higher  life  in  America— that  life  which  in  the 
mature  and  prosperous  countries  of  the  Old  World  was  also  founded 
upon  wealth  of  a  gradual  and  slower  growth. 


CHAPTER    XV. 
THE,    PALACE,    OF    E^LECTRICITY 

Professor  W.  E.  Goldsborough — Arrangement  of  Electrical  Exhibits — Display  in  the  Trac- 
tion Field — ^Wireless  Telegraph  and  Telephone  Tests — Electricity  in  Therapeutics — 
Other  Medical  Apparatus — In  the  Field  of  Electric  Illumination — Practical  Labora- 
tories Shown — Historical  Electrical  Exhibits — ^Mysteries  of  Electrical  Palace — Elec- 
tricity in  Warfare — International  Electrical  Congress. 

HE  Palace  of  Electricity  proved  to  be  one  of  the  great  centers  of 
attraction  at  tlie  fair  on  account  of  the  large  number  and  variety 
of  operating  exhibits.  Many  of  the  exhibitors  who  visited  the  exposi- 
tion expressed  themselves  in  very  enthusiastic  terms  about  the  favor- 
able location  of  the  building,  its  excellent  arrangement  for  displaying 
exhibits,  and  the  facilities  for  showing  all  kinds  of  machinery  in  action. 
The  application  of  electricity  to  every  branch  of  industry  has  made 
such  great  advance  in  the  last  ten  years  that  many  improvements  were 
shown  here  that  were  entirely  new  to  the  public  in  general. 

PEOFESSOK  W.  E.  GOLDSBOROUGH. 

This  interesting  and  educational  feature  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase 
Exposition  was  in  the  hands  of  Prof.  W.  E.  Goldsborough,  chief  of  the 
Department  of  Electricity.  Prof.  Goldsborough  was  bom  at  Baltimore, 
Md.  At  an  early  age  he  went  to  China  with  his  father,  who  was  Ameri- 
can Consul  to  Amoy.  During  his  residence  there,  he  visited  nearly 
every  section  of  the  Chinese  Empire,  and  also  traveled  through  Japan 
and  Hindustan.  He  returned  to  the  United  States  to  take  a  course  in 
electrical  engineering  at  Cornell  University,  and  graduated  from  that 
institution  with  the  degree  of  M.  E. 

For  a  time  he  had  charge  of  the  electrical  work  of  the  International 
Correspondence  Schools  at  Scranton,  Pa.  In  1893  he  was  appointed 
Professor  of  Electrical  Engineering  of  Arkansas  University  at  Fayette- 
ville,  Ark.  The  following  year  he  was  called  to  Purdue  University  as 
Associate  Professor  of  Electrical  Engineering.  In  1896  he  was  made 
full  professor,  and  the  succeeding  year  was  elected  Director  of  the  Elec- 
trical Laboratory, 

205 


206  The  Palace  of  Electricity 

Professor  Goldsborough  has  been  connected  with  the  various  expo- 
sitions since  1893,  being  a  member  of  the  International  Electrical  Con- 
gress at  Chicago,  and  was  associated,  in  an  official  way,  with  the  exposi- 
tions of  Omaha  and  Buffalo.  He  was  one  of  the  delegates  of  the  Ameri- 
can Institute  of  Electrical  Engineers  at  the  Paris  Exposition  in  1900. 
He  is  a  member  of  numerous  engineering  and  scientific  societies,  being 
one  of  the  Board  of  Managers  of  the  American  Institute  of  Electrical 
Engineers,  a  member  of  the  Institution  of  Electrical  Engineers  of  Eng- 
land, the  Franklin  Institute,  the  American  Associatiqn  for  the  Advance- 
ment of  Science,  the  Society  for  the  Promotion  of  Engineering  Educa- 
tion, the  National  Electric  Light  Association,  the  American  Electro- 
chemical Society,  and  the  American  Electro-Therapeutic  Association. 

Professor  Goldsborough  is  well  known  to  the  engineering  and  scien- 
tific world  through  numerous  contributions  to  the  Transactions  of  the 
American  Institute  of  Electrical  Engineers,  and  papers  read  before  the 
National  Electric  Light  Association  and  other  engineering  societies,  as 
well  as  many  contributions  to  the  scientific  and  electrical  press. 

areangement  of  electrical  exhibits. 

The  largest  classification,  both  in  area  of  space  and  number  of  ex- 
hibits, in  the  Palace  of  Electricity,  was  that  of  the  machines  for  gen- 
erating and  using  electricity.  Dynamos  and  motors  of  all  the  principal 
makes,  both  alternating  and  direct  current,  were  on  exhibition,  most  of 
them  running.  The  largest  of  these  machines  were  located  under  the 
traveling  crane  along  the  west  side  of  the  Palace  of  Electricity,  so  as 
to  facilitate  placing  and  removing  heavy  parts.  Motor-generators,  ro- 
tary converters,  transformers,  rheostats  and  regulators  of  every  form 
were  so  arranged  and  connected  as  to  demonstrate  their  various  func- 
tions. There  were  shown  ingenious  applications  of  motors  to  the  diverse 
forms  of  power  machines,  in  which  so  much  progress  has  been  made  in 
recent  years.  The  principal  companies  in  the  electrical  industry  were 
mainly  interested  in  this  general  classification,  and  their  representation 
in  the  group  did  credit  to  themselves  and  to  the  exposition. 

DISPLAY  in  the  TRACTION  FIELD. 

Opportunity  was  given  both  for  still  and  live  exhibits  in  the  street 
railway  field.  Those  within  the  Palace  of  Electricity  were  chiefly  mo- 
tors, controllers,  switch  boards  and  auxiliary  apparatus.    Outside  there 


The  Palace  of  Electeicity  207 

was  a  double  testing  track  about  1,400  feet  long,  upon  wbich  speed, 
acceleration,  braking  and  efficiency  tests  were  run.  Electric  railway 
equipments  of  standard  form  were  tested,  and  not  only  this,  but  sys- 
tems now  being  developed  were  given  official  recognition,  and  the  utility 
of  electric  railway  signal  apparatus  and  safety  devices  of  every  form 
was  demonstrated. 

Expositions  both  in  this  country  and  Europe  have  marked  each 
great  step  in  the  advance  of  high  potential  practice,  and  the  St.  Louis 
fair  proved  to  be  no  exception.  Arrangements  were  made  for  showing 
the  phenomena  of  high  potential  currents,  beyond  anything  in  this  line 
attempted  in  previous  expositions.  While  proper  safeguards  were 
thrown  about  such  demonstrations,  yet  they  were  conducted  in  such  a 
way  that  the  general  public  as  well  as  electrical  engineers  might  profit 
by  them. 

wireless  telegeaph  and  telephone  tests. 

Perhaps  the^  wireless  telegraph  and  telephone  exhibits  attracted  as 
much  attention  as  any  feature  on  the  grounds.  The  largest  wireless 
telegraph  station  ever  erected  had  a  conspicuous  location  from 
which  visitors  could  send  messages  to  adjoining  cities  in  the  same  man- 
ner, and  with  the  same  expedition  as  they  would  send  them  over  a  tele- 
graph line. 

Several  inventors  and  companies  had  exhibits  of  wireless  telephony 
over  comparatively  short  distances.  The  telephone  stations,  separated 
the  length  of  the  building,  were  used  without  any  metallic  connection 
between  them.  The  waves  emanated  from  the  coils  of  the  sending  sta- 
tion, and  induced  corresponding  pulsations  in  the  coils  of  the  receiving 
station,  so  that  a  conversation  could  be  heard  from  one  to  the  other. 

electricity  in  therapeutics. 

It  is  probable  that  no  branch  of  therapeutics  has  made  a  greater 
advance  than  the  electrical.  Electricity  in  the  form  of  direct,  alternat- 
ing and  intermittent  current  is  now  utilized  in  the  treatment  of  many 
forms  of  diseases,  especially  chronic  cases  which  have  been  especially 
refractory.  The  electro-therapeutic  apparatus  displayed  at  the  fair  in- 
cluded x-ray  tubes  for  physical  treatment  and  for  diagnosis,  and  the 
Finsen  lights  which  give  off  actinic  or  higher  light  rays,  and  are  espe- 
cially efficacious  in  the  treatment  of  certain  diseases. 


208  The  Palace  op  Electricity 

othee  medical  appaeatus. 

Electro-magnetic  instruments  were  also  on  exhibit,  and  were  shown 
in  operation  for  the  special  treatment  of  ear  diseases.  The  acoustican, 
an  instrument  which  very  largely  performs  the  function  of  the  ear,  was 
graphically  demonstrated,  and  persons  who  had  never  heard  a  sound 
since  birth  received  the  sense  of  hearing  through  this  instrument.  On 
account  of  the  great  number  and  variety  of  exhibits  in  this  classifica- 
tion, the  Palace  of  Electricity  proved  a  center  of  interest  to  surgeons 
and  physicians  who  are  keeping  abreast  of  the  times  in  their  particular 
field  of  endeavor. 

IN  THE  FIELD  OF  ELECTRIC  ILLUMINATION. 

A  large  number  of  inventions  in  the  line  of  electric  lighting  have 
been  made  in  recent  years,  and  these  were  all  demonstrated  in  a  way 
which  proved  exceedingly  attractive  to  the  public.  Arc  lamps  of  every 
kind  were  shown,  and  incandescent  lights  of  every  size  and  color  were 
displayed.  Nernst  lamps  were  utilized  in  lighting  one  of  the  buildings. 
The  Cooper- Hewitt  vapor  lamps  illuminated  the  Cascades,  and  were 
shown  in  the  Palace  of  Electricity.  These  lamps  emit  an  intense  white 
light,  in  which  the  absence  of  red  rays  gives  a  very  peculiar  etfect. 
Vacuum  tube  lighting  by  means  of  induced  currents  was  also  shown 
in  a  way  that  was  exceedingly  attractive  to  the  eye. 

ELECTRO- CHEMISTRY  DISPLAY. 

In  the  field  of  electro-chemistry  many  new  processes  have  lately 
been  developed  into  commercial  possibilities.  A  number  of  the  great 
manufacturing  companies  at  Niagara  Falls  and  other  water  power  cen- 
ters exhibited  their  electric  furnaces  and  chemical  processes  in  opera- 
tion. The  products  of  these  furnaces  are,  as  a  rule,  much  purer  than 
the  products  which  are  made  in  any  other  way,  and  it  was  of  interest  to 
the  public  to  see  the  operation  and  the  chemical  changes  which  go  on 
under  the  influence  of  the  electric  arc. 

PEACTICiiL  LABORATOEIES  SHOWN. 

One  of  the  many  features  of  this  wonderful  palace  devoted  to  the 
mysterious  forces  of  nature  was  the  establishment  of  special  laboratories 
with  complete  sets  of  recording  instruments,  whereby  the  juries  of 
award  and  exhibitors  could  conduct  careful  and  accurate  tests  upon  every 


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The  Palace  op  Electeicity  217 

kind  of  electrical  apparatus  shown  in  the  Palace  of  Electricity.  The 
presence  of  such  laboratories  at  an  exposition  was  a  new  departure,  and 
added  greatly  to  the  value  of  the  awards,  as  the  personal  factor  and  the 
personal  judgment  of  the  jury  were  minimized  because  the  actual 
data  regarding  the  performance  of  the  machines  or  mechanism  could  be 
accurately  ascertained. 

HISTOEICAL    ELECTEICAL   EXHIBITS. 

A  number  of  historical  exhibits  of  very  great  merit  were  displayed 
in  this  building.  Thomas  A.  Edison,  Chief  Consulting  Electrical  Engi- 
neer of  the  Department,  made  a  personal  exhibit,  showing  the  earliest 
forms  of  the  incandescent  lamp,  phonograph,  generators  and  other  me- 
chanisms which  he  has  contributed  so  much  to  develop.  The  storage 
battery  he  has  designed  especially  for  automobile  use,  combining  light 
weight  with  high  discharge  rates,  drew  the  attention  of  engineers  as  well 
as  the  public. 

DISPELLIISTG   POPULAE   IGNOEANCE. 

Through  the  American  Institute  of  Electrical  Engineers,  all  kinds 
of  early  types  of  electrical  machines  and  apparatus  were  shown,  and 
this  temporary  collection  proved  to  be  the  most  complete  ever  gathered 
together.  Displays  from  several  associations,  universities  and  labora- 
tories contained  delicate  and  accurate  instruments,  as  well  as  indicated 
methods  of  research  work.  It  was  intended  to  have  these  exhibits  which 
are  not  commercial  in  character  highly  educating  to  the  public,  and  thus 
dispel  to  some  extent  the  mystery  which  enshrouds  the  layman's  mind 
in  all  things  pertaining  to  this  form  of  energy— a  purpose  that  was 
largely  fulfilled. 

MYSTEEIES    OF    ELECTEICAL    PALACE. 

If  the  old  Greeks,  who  found  that  pieces  of  amber  rubbed  together 
would  attract  feathers,  and  thereupon  decided  that  amber  had  a  soul, 
unconsciously  discovering  the  first  electrical  phenomenon  recorded, 
could  have  been  with  the  crowds  in  the  Palace  of  Electricity,  they 
would  have  decided  that  the  soul  is  a  much  greater  thing  than  even  their 
philosophers  imagined. 

It  has  taken  a  long  time  to  work  the  problem  out,  but  the  big,  noise- 
less overhead  crane  in  the  Electricity  building  that  picked  up  huge  cast- 
ings weighing  tons  as  easily  as  the  amber  picked  up  partridge  feathers, 
did  it  by  the  same  electrical  power. 


218  The  Palace  of  Electricity 

Whirling  dynamos,  gathering  the  mysterious  current  from  appar- 
ently nothing  but  the  surrounding  air,  flashed  it  along  wires  to  the  mo- 
tors which  it  propelled.  And  the  motors  did  almost  everything.  The 
huge  overhead  crane  was  the  biggest  thing  they  moved,  and  the  mar- 
velous ease  with  which  it  was  handled  gives  a  good  idea  of  how  elec- 
tricity can  be  made  to  toil. 

The  same  immense  dynamos  that  furnished  current  for  power, 
furnished  currents  for  dazzling  lights  of  every  type  from  tiny  incandes- 
cents  to  the  big  searchlights  which  threw  their  beams  for  miles.  The 
same  current  supplied  to  the  telephone  systems  in  the  building  carried 
the  voice  and  operated  the  telegraph  instruments  and  stock  tickers. 

ELECTRICITY  IN  WARFARE. 

Telephony,  telegraphy  (both  wireless  and  along  metal  conductors), 
had  their  divisions,  and  so  had  electric  lighting.  The  modem  uses  of 
the  latter  in  warfare  and  in  peace  were  fully  demonstrated,  searchlights 
for  battleships  and  for  forts  ranging  beside  the  beacon  lights  that  shine 
forth  from  coast-guard  towers. 

More  than  seven  acres  of  floor  space  were  devoted  to  this  wonderful 
lesson  in  the  growth  of  man's  control  of  electricity  and  his  application 
of  the  mysterious  power  to  the  improvement  of  his  condition. 

It  was  the  first  time  in  the  history  of  expositions  that  such  a  display 
had  been  made  and  the  assembling  of  apparatus  from  all  over  the  world 
was  considered  one  of  the  brilliant  and  distinctive  features  of  this  world's 
fair. 

INTERNATIONAL  ELECTRICAL  CONGRESS. 

Not  only  in  a  material  way  was  the  Electrical  Department  a  center 
of  interest,  but  the  International  Electrical  Congress  drew  from  all 
countries  the  most  eminent  engineers.  The  Congress  at  Chicago  in  1893, 
and  at  Paris  in  1900,  had  an  important  influence  on  the  world's  progress 
in  the  knowledge  and  application  of  electricity  and  magnetism,  and  it 
was  to  be  expected  that  the  gathering  at  St.  Louis  would  be  e'qually  po- 
tent. Conventions  of  electrical  associations  were  held  simultaneously 
in  connection  with  the  Congress,  but  each  had  its  separate  program  and 
place  of  meeting,  until  the  final  day,  when  a  general  convocation  was 
called.  The  exposition  authorities  provided  ample  facilities  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  the  Congress  and  the  various  conventions  in  the  halls 
of  the  Washington  University,  and  the  other  buildings  about  the  grounds. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 
THE    PALACE    OF    AGRICULTURE 

Largest  of  the  Exposition  Palaces — Chief  of  Department,  Frederick  W.  Taylor — Descrip- 
tion of  Building — The  Leviathan  Contrasted — Scope  of  the  Exhibits — Rivalry  Among 
the  States — Bounty  of  Nature  Shown — Corn  is  King — Panorama  of  Cotton  Industry — 
Commercial  Aspects  Shown — Sugar  Industry  Demonstrated — Tobacco  in  Many  Forms 
— Products  of  the  American  Cow — Scientific  Treatment  of  Milk — Sculpture  in  Butter 
and  Cheese — Food  and  Food  Products — A  Grand  Free  Lunch — World's  Largest  Wine 
Cask — Agricultural  Implements — Home  for  Farmers'  Meetings — A  Map  in  Living 
Vegetation. 

THE  Palaces  of  Agriculture  and  Horticulture  crowned  a  beautiful 
eminence,  rightly  named  "Agricultural  Hill."  They  provided 
for  the  housing  of  the  products  of  the  fields,  orchards,  vineyards  and 
gardens,  and  were  surrounded  by  profuse  formal  and  informal  land- 
scape gardening,  making  a  setting  at  once  appropriate  and  pleasing  in 
artistic  grouping.  Grasses,  bulbs,  shrubs,  creepers,  aquatics,  roses,  coni- 
fers and  all  else  that  Mother  Nature  supplies  in  wanton  profusion  were 
blended  in  this  setting  for  these  imposing  structures. 

LARGEST  OP   THE   EXPOSITION   PALACES. 

The  Palace  of  Agriculture,  the  largest  structure  on  the  grounds,  cov- 
ered approximately  twenty  acres  of  land,  and  the  Palace  of  Horticul- 
ture, six  acres.  These  structures  were  treated  in  color,  in  part,  and  in 
that  much  differed  from  the  other  exposition  palaces,  which  were  finished 
in  old  ivory  tints.  In  all,  inside  and  outside  space,  more  than  seventy 
acres  were  devoted  to  the  progress  and  development  of  the  science  of 
husbandry. 

The  twenty  acres  of  floor  space  devoted  to  agriculture  proved  much 
less  than  could  be  used  by  this  largest  and  most  profitable  of  American 
industries.  Enormous  as  the  structure  was,  there  were  ungranted  ap- 
plications for  space  on  file  which  would  require  an  additional  twenty 
acres.  This  condition  illustrated  the  widespread  interest  and  activity  in 
all  that  pertains  to  the  soil  and  its  fruits. 

219 


220  The  Palace  of  Agkicultuee 

chief  of  depaktmeistts,  feedeeic  w.  taylor. 

For  the  excellence  of  these  two  great  features  of  the  fair  credit  is  due 
to  Frederic  W.  Taylor,  chief  of  both  departments.  To  both  he  brought 
exceedingly  useful  experience  and  ability.  Mr.  Taylor  is  a  "Western 
man.  He  served  a  thorough  apprenticeship  in  the  nursery  business  with 
his  father,  as  well  as  in  one  of  the  largest  nurseries  of  the  country,  and 
almost  immediately  after  attaining  his  majority  embarked  in  the  nur- 
sery business  for  himself,  at  the  same  time  managing  a  large  stock 
farm.  In  1887  he  was  made  Professor  of  Horticulture  at  the  University 
of  Nebraska,  holding  the  position  for  several  years,  also  carrying  the 
organization  and  management  of  the  farmers'  institutes  of  the  State  and 
of  the  university  extension  work.  By  reason  of  his  close  acquaintance 
with  farming  throughout  all  these  years  he  has  kept  in  close  touch  with 
the  advancement  and  use  of  improved  methods  and  appliances. 

Mr.  Taylor's  exposition  experience  began  when  he  took  charge  of  the 
Nebraska  State  Horticultural  Exhibit  at  the  Chicago  exposition.  He 
was  very  successful  as  Superintendent  of  Agriculture,  Horticulture 
and  Forestry  at  the  Trans-Mississippi  Exposition  at  Omaha,  in  1898. 
At  the  Pan-American  Exposition  he  combined  the  arduous  duties  of  Di- 
rector of  Concessions  and  those  of  Superintendent  of  Horticulture,  For- 
estry and  Foods  and  their  Accessories,  leaving  that  exposition  only  to 
begin  the  preparatory  work  connected  with  the  two  departments  of  the 
Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition.  He  has  attended  many  of  the  large 
expositions  of  Europe,  thereby  broadening  his  knowledge  of  the  work. 

DESCEIPTIOE"  OF  THE  PALACE. 

The  Agriculture  Palace  was  500  feet  wide  by  1,600  feet,  or  over  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  length.  These  bare  figures  do  not  convey  an  ade- 
quate idea  of  the  mammoth  proportions  of  the  structure  with  its  800,000 
square  feet,  equaling  nearly  twenty  acres  of  floor  space.  The  contract 
price  for  the  construction  of  the  Palace  of  Agriculture  was  $529,940. 
This  does  not  include  the  expense  of  applying  the  colors  in  the  working 
out  of  the  elaborate  and  beautiful  color  scheme  or  for  other  incidentals. 

A  walk  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile  was  required  to  simply  pass 
around  it.  The  diagonal  of  the  building  was  nearly  a  third  of  a  mile. 
The  Eiffel  Tower,  lying  flat  on  its  side,  would  measure  less  than  two- 
thirds  of  the  length  of  the  building,  while  three  Washington  monuments 
could  have  been  laid  end  to  end  diagonally  through  it. 


TliE  Palace  op  Agkicultuee  221 


THE  LEVIATHAN   CONTEASTED. 

Sixteen  vessels  of  the  size  of  the  largest  steamer  afloat,  the  Cedric, 
could  be  housed  in  thfr  building  and  there  would  be  room  left  for  the 
landing  stage.  Thirteen  miles  of  freight  cars,  together  with  locomotives 
and  way-cars  enough  to  handle  them,  could  be  housed  in  the  building. 
Arranged  as  a  corn  crib  it  could  hold  nearly  the  entire  crop  for  two 
years  of  New  England  and  New  York,  or  half  the  sixty-five  million 
bushels  constituting  the  average  annual  crop  of  Missouri. 

Converted  into  a  vast  silo,  and  filled,  it  would  store  silage  enough  to 
winter  many  more  than  the  three  million  head  of  cattle  shown  by  the  last 
census  to  be  in  Missouri. 

Used  as  an  apple  bin,  it  would  hold  a  peck  of  fruit  for  each  man, 
woman  and  child  in  the  United  States,  the  Philippines  and  Hawaii,  and 
there  would  be  a  double  supply  for  each  of  our  Cuban  neighbors.  The 
entire  barley  crop  of  the  United  States  could  have  been  housed  in  it. 

The  first  thought  suggested  by  looking  upon  this  colossus  was  ac- 
knowledgment of  the  truth  of  the  statement  of  James  J.  Hill,  the  rail- 
way magnate,  that  ''nearly  one-half  of  the  capital  of  the  country  is 
invested  in  agricultural  land,  and  what  goes  with  it  for  the  purpose  of 
making  it  productive.  Nearly  one-half  of  the  population  of  the  country 
is  directly  or  indirectly  connected  with  the  cultivation  of  the  soil,  and 
if  we  judge  from  all  the  experience  of  the  past,  the  agricultural  half  of 
the  population  has  done  more  than  its  share  in  everything  that  goes 
to  benefit  the  country  as  a  whole." 

SCOPE   OF  THE   EXHIBIT. 

The  general  scope  of  the  classification  and  grouping  in  the  Palace  of 
Agriculture  covered  all  the  products  coming  from  the  soil;  the  tools, 
implements,  methods  of  cultivation,  of  harvesting,  of  irrigation,  of  drain- 
age; the  by-products  and  the  manufactured  forms  of  those  products; 
their  preparation  and  preservation,  including  everything  edible  and 
drinkable  which  comes  however  remotely  from  the  soil  and  which  enters 
into  the  home  life  or  commerce  of  the  people  of  the  world. 

At  the  opening  of  the  fair  there  were  on  file  in  the  Department  of 
Agriculture,  formal  applications  from  fifteen  foreign  countries  and 
forty-two  states  and  tentative  applications  from  a  number  of  other  for- 
eign countries. 


222  The  Palace  of  Agricultuee 

In  nearly  every  case,  the  applications  were  for  a  greater  amount  of 
space  than  was  possible  to  set  aside,  even  though  the  exhibits  offered 
were  of  the  highest  possible  excellence. 

EIVALRY  AMONG  THE  STATES. 

A  friendly  rivalry  among  the  States  was  strongly  manifested  by  the 
painstaking  elaboration  which  characterized  their  efforts  in  presenting 
the  salient  phases  of  the  agriculture  of  each.  The  experience  of  the 
past,  combined  with  modern  knowledge  in  producing  the  results,  made 
the  St,  Louis  world's  fair  par  excellence  the  most  comprehensive  and 
intelligent  epitome  of  husbandry  yet  seen  by  the  world. 

BOUNTY   OF   NATUEE   SHOWN. 

Special  features  in  the  way  of  universal  exhibits  occupied  the  central 
bay  of  the  Palace  of  Agriculture.  This  bay  was  106  by  1,600  feet,  and 
the  truss  beams  60  feet  from  the  floor.  Here  were  corn,  cotton,  tobacco, 
cane  and  beet  sugar,  pure  foods,  and  Experiment  Station  exhibits,  which 
have  to  do  with  practical  agriculture.  By  ' '  Special  Exhibits ' '  is  meant 
that  the  presentation  of  these  crops  was  compiled  from  the  products 
of  each  of  the  States  growing  them  on  a  commercial  scale.  These  uni- 
versal exhibits  were  really  auxiliary  to  the  State  collections;  and  were 
intended  to  relieve  them  in  a  certain  sense  from  sameness  and  repetition 
by  bringing  the  materials  from  each  and  blending  them  into  an  har- 
monious whole;  and  at  the  same  time  to  carefully  emphasize  character- 
istics and  peculiarities  in  the  cultivation,  harvesting  and  handling,  as 
well  as  the  differences  in  the  resulting  products  coming  from  the  vary- 
ing soils  and  climatic  conditions  prevailing  in  this  country. 

COEN  IS  KING. 

Every  state  in  the  union  was  represented  in  the  rivalry  over  corn. 
In  the  15,000  feet  devoted  to  corn  the  product  of  each  of  the  states 
could  be  found  in  apposition  for  easy  comparison  and  this  proved  of 
great  interest  to  the  grower,  no  matter  from  whence  he  hailed.  All  that 
pertains  to  corn  and  its  cultivation,  including  methods,  selection  and 
breeding,  was  shown.  Adjoining  were  found  the  commercial  products 
and  by-products  of  com;  the  several  varieties  of  starch,  of  glucose,  of 
dextrin,  of  sugar,  of  syrup;  corn  oil,  rubber,  oil  cake,  germ  oil  meal, 
gluten  meal;  of  corn  meal,  samp,  grits,  hominy;  of  stock  foods,  stover, 


The  Palace  of  Agriculture  223 

ensilage,  fodder,  shucks,  shuck  mats  and  mattresses;  canned  or  pre- 
served corn,  malt,  dry  wines,  whisky,  alcohol,  cob  ash,  cob  pipes,  etc. 

Besides  these  objects  the  statistical  phase  of  the  crop  was  so  illus- 
trated as  to  show  at  a  glance  the  production  in  the  United  States  and  the 
relation  each  state  bears  to  the  total  crop,  and  other  pertinent  items  of 
statistical  interest. 

The  very  conspicuous  space  allotted  to  this  feature,  comprising 
three  blocks,  was  so  located  as  to  present  most  effectively  from  all  direc- 
tions of  approach  the  ornate  design  intended  to  cover  the  whole  space 
boundaries.  The  exterior  was  treated  exclusively  in  corn,  the  shuck, 
stalk,  ear,  cob,  and  grain,  all  contributing  to  produce  the  most  effective 
results. 

PANORAMA   OF    COTTON    INDUSTRY. 

A  space  of  similar  size  and  location  was  devoted  to  cotton.  Here 
again  the  methods  of  cultivation,  of  harvesting,  of  growing,  of  baling, 
and  in  fact,  the  whole  story  from  the  field  to  the  factory  door  was  fully 
illustrated,  including  some  of  the  processes  and  a  few  of  the  cloths, 
showing  the  finished  product.  The  purpose  of  the  exhibit,  which  was 
participated  in  by  all  cotton-growing  states,  was  to  present  an  epitome 
of  the  cotton  industry. 

It  began  with  the  preparation  of  the  soil,  then  covered  seeding,  cul- 
tivation, harvesting,  baling,  and  ended  with  the  delivery  at  the  factory 
door.  All  the  tools,  implements  and  machinery  necessary  for  the  dem- 
onstration of  these  processes  were  shown.  In  addition,  the  products 
and  by-products  of  cotton  and  cotton  seed  were  fully  demonstrated. 

The  cotton  seed,  for  years  considered  of  no  value,  has  now  become 
almost  as  important  in  its  relations  to  commerce  as  the  lint  itself.  The 
extraction  of  oil,  its  refining  and  preparation  as  food;  the  value  of  the 
meal,  both  as  a  fertilizer  and  as  a  food  for  animals;  the  hulls  and  their 
value  as  a  food  for  animals  and  use  in  other  ways,  were  all  interestingly 
shown,  to  say  nothing  of  the  soap  and  lesser  articles  which  find  a  place 
in  the  marts  of  the  world. 

Texas,  the  largest  producer  of  cotton  in  the  world,  took  the  lead  in 
this  enterprise,  and  the  magnificent  dome  which  ornamented  the  center 
of  the  exhibit,  was  surmounted  by  a  figure  holding  aloft  a  lone  star,  the 
emblem  of  that  state. 

Mississippi  had  a  statue  of  King  Cotton  enthroned,  more  than  thirty 
feet  in  height.     This  was  surrounded  by  growing  fields  of  the  fleecy 


224  The  Palace  of  Ageicultuee 

staple,  in  wliicli  could  be  seen  four  or  five  figures  harvesting  the  crop. 

Missouri,  Indian  Territory,  Georgia  and  North  Carolina  all  joined 
in  this  magnificent  presentation,  the  latter  state  showing  the  processes, 
including  the  cloths  manufactured  in  that  state. 

COMMEECIAL  ASPECTS  SHOWN. 

Commercial  cotton  samples  from  all  the  states  and  the  leading  world 
marts  rested  side  by  side,  all  graded  and  labelled;  each  cotton  growing 
state  having  its  section  showing  its  lint  and  its  commercial  grades.  The 
seed  with  its  products  of  oil  and  meal  and  the  by-products  and  uses 
of  all  of  these  were  shown  as  already  described.  The  presentation  con- 
stituted a  spectacle  not  seen  in  any  previous  exposition.  The  statistics 
of  the  crop  were  carefully  worked  out,  so  that  the  relation  of  the  par- 
ticipating states  to  the  total  crop  were  plainly  set  forth. 

The  ornamentation  of  the  exhibit  consisted  of  a  central  dome  with 
lateral  facades  flanking  the  inner  service  aisles,  the  whole  surrounded 
by  low  railing,  thus  giving  full  effect  and  force  to  the  ornate  elevation. 
This  central  figure  was  adorned  by  statuary  representing  an  old  style 
oil  press  operated  by  gracefully  draped  female  figures  which  constituted 
the  frontal  piece  of  a  vast  crown  shaped  dome.  The  remaining  orna- 
mentation was  of  cotton  bolls  and  leaves,  cotton  baskets  and  other  ap- 
propriate designs. 

SUGAE  I1<7DUSTEY  DEMONSTEATED. 

The  sugar  crop  of  the  United  States  is  one  of  growing  importance, 
and  the  extension  is  notable  in  both  the  sources  for  sugar.  The  cane 
sugar  interest  is  largely  centered  in  Louisiana  and  that  state,  of  course, 
took  the  lead  in  presenting  this  industry.  The  cane  sugar  industry  was 
shown  in  its  entirety,  and  proved  one  of  the  most  entertaining  exhibits 
in  the  building.  Hardly  second  to  it  was  the  presentation  of  the  beet 
sugar  industry  in  the  United  States.  This  also  was  treated  most  elabo- 
rately, so  that  the  visitor  had  ample  opportunity  for  seeing  the  sugars 
made  from  cane  and  from  beets;  to  compare  them  and  the  methods  for 
producing  them. 

TOBACCO  IN  MANY  FOEMS. 

The  space  allotted  to  the  special  tobacco  exhibit  comprised  four 
blocks  in  the  central  bay  and  contained  approximately  20,000  feet  of 
floor  space.    The  plan  formulated  embraced  the  most  graphic  presenta- 


The  Palace  of  Agricultuee  225 

tion  of  tobacco  in  all  its  phases,  from  the  seed  to  the  finished  commercial 
product,  yet  undertaken.  More  than  twenty  states  of  the  union  produce 
the  weed  in  marketable  quantities,  and  each  displayed  its  variety  or  type 
incidental  to  soil,  climate  or  other  condition. 

These  include  what  are  known  as  ''brights,"  "hurley,"  ''cigar," 
''Sumatra,"  "perique,"  "sm.okers,"  "chewers,"  and  what  not.  For 
marketing  purposes,  these  are  subdivided  into  "grades"  and  under 
these  grade  names  were  exhibited,  so  that  in  one  comprehensive  exhibit 
the  whole  story  of  tobacco  was  told  to  the  world.  All  of  the  states  grow- 
ing the  weed  participated  in  exhibiting  the  seed,  plant  bed,  field  culture, 
curing  process,  saleswarehouses,  leaf;  the  tools,  implements  and  appli- 
ances used  in  the  cultivation,  harvesting  and  manufacture  of  the  leaf. 

decorative  features  in  tobacco. 

The  superstructure  was  encased  in  leaf  or  other  prepared  forms  of 
tobacco.  The  central  feature  consisted  of  an  octagonal  base,  some  forty 
feet  in  diameter,  supporting  the  globe,  twenty-four  feet  in  diameter, 
upon  which  the  general  geographic  divisions  of  the  earth  were  faith- 
fully portrayed.  Surmounting  this  was  the  figure  of  a  galleon  of  the 
fifteenth  and  sixteenth  century  type,  constructed  of  tobacco  and  sym- 
bolic of  the  first  introduction  of  tobacco  in  the  old  world  in  1585.  The 
design  included  several  models  of  the  Indian,  as  it  was  through  him,  the 
original  American,  that  this  narcotic  was  given  to  soothe  the  masculine 
nerves  of  the  civilized  world. 

In  the  United  States  more  than  a  million  acres  are  devoted  to  the 
production  of  the  eight  hundred  and  fifty  to  nine  hundred  millions  of 
pounds  of  leaf  annually  produced.  From  $50,000,000  to  $60,000,000 
paid  to  the  planters  is  but  a  small  part  of  the  integral  realized'  for  the 
manufactured  and  exported  stock.  The  assembling  of  this  vast  interest 
into  an  ' '  Epitome  of  Tobacco, ' '  and  its  artistic  treatment  employed  some 
of  the  best  talent  in  the  country. 

PRODUCT  OP  THE  AMERICAN  COW. 

How  many  of  us  realize  the  enormous  value  of  the  products  of  the 
cow  to  this  country?  Approxim^ately,  $472,000,000  worth  of  milk,  but- 
ter and  cheese  are  produced  in  the  United  States  each  year.  That  sum 
at  least  was  reported  in  the  last  census,  and  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that 


226  The  Palace  of  Ageicultueb 

this  climax  has  been  reached  by  gradual  growth,  which  continues,  and 
the  next  census  will  show  a  handsome  increase  in  these  figures. 

The  problem  which  confronted  the  exposition  authorities  was  how  to 
plan  an  exhibit  which  would  fittingly  represent  this  mighty  interest. 

The  dairy  section  at  the  world's  fair  occupied  approximately  30,000 
square  feet  in  the  Palace  of  Agriculture.  A  model  creamery,  using  daily 
5,000  pounds  of  milk,  was  one  of  the  features  illustrating  processes  and 
proved  of  great  interest.  It  was  equipped  with  all  the  latest  butter  and 
cheese-making  apparatus  of  today  and  was  in  daily  operation.  Plate 
glass  enclosed  it,  permitting  visitors  to  see  every  stage  of  the  process 
demonstrated. 

SCIENTIFIC  TREATMENT  OF  MILK, 

Adjoining  the  creamery  was  a  model  dairy  lunch  exhibit.  Milk, 
cream,  butter  and  cheese,  pure,  sweet  and  fresh,  the  output  of  the  cream- 
ery, could  be  found  here,  and  purchasers  could  designate  which  they 
wished,  sterilized,  pasteurized  or  other. 

In  connection  with  the  creamery  was  shown  a  sanitary  milk  plant. 
This  also  was  in  daily  operation,  and  demonstrated  that  pure  milk  may 
be  furnished  in  cities  as  well  as  on  the  farm.  The  best  way  for  shipping 
milk,  the  best  containers,  and  the  proper  way  to  handle  it  were  also 
shown. 

The  process  of  pasteurizing  milk  was  shown;  where  the  milk  was 
run  through  a  series  of  utensils  subjecting  it  to  a  heat  of  160  degrees, 
when  it  was  immediately  cooled  and  restored  to  its  normal  temperature. 
This  heat  is  sufficient  to  destroy  most  of  the  injurious  germs  that  may 
be  in  the  milk,  yet  does  not  impair  itc  nutrition.  The  sterilized  milk  is 
heated  to  the  boiling  point  for  a  time  to  destroy  other  germs  should  they, 
be  present. 

SCULPTURE  IN   BUTTER   AND   CHEESE. 

Few  exhibits  were  of  greater  general  interest  than  the  lavish  display 
of  butter  and  cheese..  Here  refrigeration  was  necessary  and  show  cases 
were  provided  for  the  states  and  foreign  countries  that  participated. 
The  refrigerated  cases  were  90  feet  long  and  35  feet  wide,  of  plate  glass 
construction  and  the  divisions  eight  feet  square.  The  products  of  the 
dairy  and  creamery  were  displayed  more  attractively  than  was  ever 
before  attempted  and  consisted  of  figures  of  eminent  persons,  interesting 


The  Palace  of  Agricultuee  227 

objects  and  other  forms  of  sculpture,  including  flowers  and  fruits  all 
done  in  butter. 

Cases  of  like  dini^nsions  were  cooled  for  the  cheese  exhibits,  which 
included  not  only  all  forms  manufactured  in  the  United  States,  but 
many  foreign  examples  rarely  seen  in  this  country. 

The  famous  Roquefort  Cheese  Company  had  an  exhibit  in  this  de- 
partment. In  a  large  glass  pavilion  was  a  miniature  plastic  representa- 
tion of  the  mountain  on  which  the  goats  feed,  with  the  animals  them- 
selves, the  machinery  with  which  the  cheese  is  made,  and  the  historic 
cellars  where  it  is  stored.  Another  exhibit  in  this  section  was  the  olive 
oil  exhibit  of  James  Plognial,  of  France.  An  olive  tree  containing  1,000 
incandescent  electric  lights  was  a  part  of  this  display. 

FOOD  AND  FOOD  PRODUCTS. 

More  than  three  acres  of  space  was  devoted  exclusively  to  foods,  in- 
cluding the  cereals  and  their  products ;  tubers  and  roots  and  their  prod- 
ucts; coffees,  teas,  cocoa  of  all  kinds  and  products;  refrigerated  fresh 
meats,  poultry,  fish  and  game ;  eggs,  farinaceous  products,  pastes,  breads, 
cakes,  tinned  meats,  evaporated  and  preserved  fruits,  spices  and  condi- 
ments; portable  waters,  beers,  ales,  wines,  brandies,  whiskies,  cordials 
and  everything  else  used  as  food  or  drink  by  mankind. 

Three  acres  of  everything  that  is  good  to  eat  and  drink!  And  the 
best  part  of  it  was  that  the  visitor  was  invited  to  sample  the  dainty 
viands,  or  wholesome  beverages,  and  satisfy  himself  as  to  their  merits. 

Chief  Taylor  appointed  Paul  Pierce  to  superintend  this  food  exhibit, 
the  first  of  a  universal  scope  ever  to  be  made.  Mr.  Pierce  is  a  son  of 
the  late  United  States  Senator  Pierce,  of  North  Dakota,  and  for  ten 
years  has  been  editor  and  publisher  of  a  journal  devoted  to  the  interests 
of  pure  foods. 

A  GRAND  FREE  LUNCH. 

Space  for  this  attractive  exhibit  was  assigned  in  the  central  nave 
of  the  Agriculture  building.  One  of  the  most  appetizing  exposition  dis- 
plays ever  contemplated  was  shown  every  day  of  the  fair. 

Not  only  were  the  foods  of  the  world  shown,  but  each  exhibitor  gave 
demonstrations  of  the  qualities  of  his  wares.  Thus  the  breakfast  food 
manufacturers  were  not  content  with  showing  a  pyramid  of  packages, 
and  their  food  in  bulk,  but  neatly  clad  girls  prepared  and  served  all  the 
dainty  dishes  of  which  breakfast  food  is  the  principal  ingredient.    Bak- 


228  The  Palace  of  Agkicultuke 

ing  powder  manufacturers  employed  experts  who  served  the  lightest  and 
fluffiest  of  biscuits,  and  in  order  to  make  them  in  greater  demand  served 
them  with  the  best  creamery  butter  and  syrup  of  fruit. 

The  fruit  preservers  and  the  pickle  manufacturers  took  large  blocks 
of  space  and  displayed  several  hundred  varieties  that  the  world's  fair 
visitor  might  select  samples  from  at  will. 

The  chocolate  and  cocoa  interests  made  a  great  bid  for  popularity. 
A  cup  of  rich  chocolate,  and  any  of  the  toothsome  desserts  of  which  the 
products  of  the  chocolate  bean  form  a  component  part,  were  served  in 
its  most  enticing  form,  while  the  one  who  prefers  cocoa  might  have  his 
want  supplied  for  the  mere  suggestion. 

If  the  housewife  observed  keenly  the  tricks  of  the  experts  who  made 
the  delicious  coifees  that  were  served  from  the  artistic  booths  she  must 
learn  much  of  the  art  of  coffee-making.  And  as  for  tea,  the  growers 
from  all  climes  exerted  their  best  efforts  to  prove  that  their  tea  had  the 
most  delightful  flavor. 

And  so  it  was  all  down  the  line  of  edibles.  The  same  thing  was  true 
of  soft  drinkables. 

world's  largest  wine  cask. 

In  this  connection  was  shown  the  largest  wine  cask  ever  made.  It 
was  in  the  cooperage  exhibit  of  Adolphe  Ftuhinsholz  in  the  Palace  of 
Agriculture.  It  was  17^2  f^et  in  diameter  and  liy^  feet  long,  and 
held  14,300  gallons.  It  was  made  entirely  of  oak,  the  wood  being  from 
Mississippi,  Kentucky  and  Tennessee.  The  staves  of  the  cask  were  five 
inches  thick.  Experienced  coopers  were  brought  from  Nancy,  France, 
to  construct  the  cask. 

AGRICULTUSAL  IMPLEMENTS,  TOOLS,  ETC. 

Another  great  block  of  space  was  supplied  for  the  manufacturers  of 
agricultural  implements,  tools  and  machinery.  All  the  newest  and  latest 
devices  for  the  tilling  of  the  soil  or  the  handling  of  farm  products  were 
lavishly  displayed. 

The  many  millions  of  dollars  invested  in  the  production  of  imple- 
ments used  in  the  various  processes  of  agriculture,  raise  that  section  to 
such  an  importance  that  it  seemed  to  the  management  unfair  to  ask  the 
manufacturers  to  be  content  with  an  annex,  a  lean-to  or  a  subsidiary 
place  of  any  sort.  Plans  were  accordingly  made  to  give  agricultural 
implements  a  location  on  the  same  floor  and  under  the  same  roof,  with 


The  Palace  oe  Ageicultuee  229 

every  facility  afforded  other  exhibitors  in  this  department  of  the  expo- 
sition. With  these  arrangements  supplied  by  the  management  the  ex- 
hibitors felt  warranted  in  Id  stalling  upon  a  higher  and  more  artistic 
plane  than  has  ever  heretofore  been  practicable,  giving  the  agricultural- 
ist a  rare  opportunity  to  study  the  implements  and  labor-saving  devices 
of  his  calling. 

some  outdoor  exhibits. 

Windmills  were  accorded  locations  outside  the  building  so  that  they 
might  be  shown  in  actual  service.  Outdoor  locations  were  also  provided 
for  such  massive  agricultural  machinery  and  engines  as  required  such 
a  position  in  order  that  they  might  properly  present  their  special  quali- 
ties to  the  critical  visitor. 

Space  was  also  provided  outside  for  such  live  crop  exhibits  as  were 
necessary  to  give  an  adequate  illustration  of  the  methods  of  growing, 
fertilizing,  cultivating  and  harvesting  of  crops,  and  to  illustrate  species 
and  varieties  of  grains. 

HAUL.  EOR  FAEMEES'   MEETINGS. 

There  was  also  in  the  Palace  of  Agriculture  a  hall  50x106  feet,  con- 
taining seating  capacity  to  accommodate  comfortably  over  a  thousand 
people.  This  hall  was  constructed  for  the  special  purpose  of  providing 
a  meeting  place  for  all  international,  national,  state  and  other  agricul- 
tural and  horticultural  organizations  which  held  their  meetings  in  St. 
Louis  in  1904.    The  use  of  the  hall  was  without  charge. 

A  MAP   IN   LIVING  VEGETATION. 

Typifying  the  agricultural  resources  of  each  state,  a  large  map,  cov- 
ering six  acres,  with  cinder  walks  marking  the  boundary  lines,  showed 
visitors  at  the  world's  fair  the  growing  crops  of  the  nation  as  they  are 
adapted  to  the  various  sections. 

Texas,  with  its  enormous  area,  was  represented  with  cotton  through 
the  central  section,  corn  and  wheat  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state, 
range  grass  in  the  cattle  belt  and  rice  fields  along  the  southern  coast. 
Missouri  was  outlined  by  the  crops  common  to  her  soil  and  blue  grass 
was  one  of  the  products  to  show  the  topography  of  Kentucky. 

Every  state  in  the  union  was  similarly  marked.  This  was  one  of  the 
most  comprehensive  features  of  the  government's  agricultural  display. 

In  addition  to  the  numerous  features  mentioned,  there  was  much  of 


230  The  Palace  of  Ageicultuee 

great  interest  in  the  foreign  section,  where  England,  France,  Germany, 
Italy,  Japan,  Mexico,  Canada,  Egypt,  Africa  and  other  countries  and 
islands  of  the  sea  vied  with  each  other  in  showing  to  the  New,  the  hus- 
bandry of  the  Old  World. 

MOTHEE  EAETH  THE  SOURCE  OF  LIFE  AND  LUXUEY. 

The  last  exhibit  could  not  but  strengthen  the  impression,  carried 
away  by  the  visitor  to  the  Palace  of  Agriculture,  that  Mother  Earth,  after 
all,  is  the  real  source  of  all  we  are,  and  can  substantially  enjoy  in  this 
life.  She  is  our  safest  dependence  for  both  subsistence  and  luxury;  for 
what  are  drought,  flood  and  hurricane,  when  weighed  against  the  fluctu- 
ations, uncertainties  and  wrecks  of  the  industrial  and  business  world? 

A  DIGNIFIED   PROFESSION. 

Agriculture  has  equally  advanced  with  Mining,  the  Manufactures  and 
Commerce.  Science  and  invention  have  added  as  much  to  the  possibil- 
ities for  expansion  in  this  field  as  in  any  other  of  the  human  activities. 
The  modern  and  successful  agriculturist  is  as  active  mentally  as  he  is 
physically,  since  in  order  to  meet  competition  he  must  keep  abreast  of 
all  the  latest  improvements  in  machinery,  renewal  of  the  soil  and  rota- 
tion of  crops.  In  certain  directions  he  should  be,  and  often  is,  a  prac- 
tical chemist,  knowing  what  elements  to  add  to  defective  soils  in  order  to 
best  grow  certain  crops,  or  by  the  analysis  of  the  soil  being  able  to  de- 
termine what  crop  will  best  flourish. 

The  display  in  the  Palace  of  Agriculture  clearly  illustrated  the  dig- 
nity of  the  farmer's  calling.  It  is  not  an  occupation  to  be  trifled  with,  if 
success  is  anticipated. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 
THE,    PALACE,    OF    HORTICULTURE, 

Exhibitors  Received  Individual  Credit — The  Pomological  Exhibit — ^Almost  Perfect  Interior 
Arrangements — Remarkable  Apple  Display — Tasting  Countless  Apples — A  Peculiar 
Occupation — Collective  Fruit  Exhibit — Horticultural  Machinery — Floral  Exhibits. 

THE  Palace  of  Horticulture  consisted  of  a  main  central  room  four 
hundred  feet  square,  with  wings  extending  on  opposite  sides,  each 
wing  being  204  by  230  feet,  the  whole  building  thus  covering  almost  ex- 
actly six  acres  of  ground.  Every  foot  of  the  great  area  was  first-class  ex- 
hibit space  and  no  display  was  located  on  any  but  main-floor  space.  A  fur- 
ther actual  gain  in  the  amount  of  available  space  was  made  through  the 
policy  followed  in  the  classification  by  which  all  wines  and  brandies, 
preserved  and  canned  fruit  were  classified  in  agriculture  with  other 
liquors  and  food  products.  The  actual  net  space  for  exhibits  was  thus 
much  more  than  was  ever  provided  for  horticultural  exhibits  at  any  ex- 
position. 

In  the  center  of  the  building  was  a  splendid  collection  of  palms  and 
decorative  plants.  Surrounding  this,  an  area  of  two  hundred  feet 
square,  was  reserved  for  exhibits  placed  upon  low  tables.  No  installa- 
tion in  this  space  was  more  than  thirty  inches  in  height. 

The  building  was  lighted  by  windows  in  the  walls  and  from  above. 
The  windows  in  the  roof  were  not  skylights  but  of  the  monitor  form,  so 
that  no  direct  rays  of  sunshine  from  them  touched  the  exhibits. 

EXHIBITORS  RECEIVED  INDIVIDUAL   CREDIT. 

All  exhibits  were  shown  with  the  name  and  address  of  the  producer 
attached,  though  the  space  may  have  been  assigned  to  a  National  or 
State  commission.  The  value  of  a  rule  of  this  kind  is  quite  evident. 
The  grower  was  given  due  credit  for  all  the  fruit  furnished  by  him  and 
the  exhibits  were  of  greater  educational  value  because  the  exact  loca- 
tion where  the  fruit  was  grown  was  given. 

Several  reasons  exist  to  explain  why  the  exhibits  in  fresh  fruits 

231 


232  The.  Palace  of  Hobticultitee 

were  mucli  better  than  it  lias  heretofore  been  possible  to  make.  Chief 
among  these  is  the  enormous  advance  that  has  been  made  in  knowledge 
regarding  refrigeration  as  a  means  of  preserving  for  long  periods  the 
perishable  fruits.  Another  reason  is  that  St.  Louis  is  now  the  center 
of  the  greatest  apple,  peach,  grape  and  strawberry  producing  section 
of  the  world.  This  made  possible  the  bringing  together,  from  compara- 
tively nearby  territory,  of  great  quantities  of  fruits  of  the  highest  qual- 
it}^  and  in  a  most  varied  assortment. 

THE  POMOLOGICAL.  EXHIBIT, 

The  space  devoted  to  Pomological  exhibits  was  located  in  the  main 
room  of  the  Horticultural  building.  This  space,  as  already  stated,  was 
much  larger  than  has  ever  been  devoted  to  a  fruit  exhibit  at  any  exposi- 
tion, and  it  had  the  advantage  of  being  in  one  large  square  room.  The 
floor  plan  adopted  was  so  arranged  that  there  were  no  main  aisles  in 
the  building,  but  instead  it  was  cut  up  in  such  a  way  that  the  aisles  ran 
in  different  directions;  this  arrangement  making  the  entire  area  good 
exhibit  space,  because  it  distributed  the  visitors  evenly  over  the  entire 
space,  and  created  no  favored  locations.  This  entire  area  was  covered 
with  fresh  fruit  on  the  opening  day  of  the  exposition,  which  is  some- 
thing never  attempted  before  at  any  world's  fair. 

ALMOST   PEEFECT   INTEEIOE   AEEAITGEMENTS. 

The  central  portion  of  the  building,  covering  a  space  of  forty  thou- 
sand square  feet,  was  devoted  to  table  exhibits.  This  arrangement  en- 
abled the  visitor  to  locate  any  exhibit  in  the  building  from  almost  any 
point  near  the  center,  and  also  enabled  him  to  get  a  splendid  general 
view.  The  space  surrounding  this  center  area  was  covered  with  high 
installation,  and  the  different  states  and  territories  being  allowed  to 
put  up  such  installation  as  best  suited  their  needs. 

The  different  states  and  territories  that  participated  made  extensive 
preparations  in  the  way  of  putting  large  quantities  of  fruit  in  cold 
storage  in  St.  Louis  and  elsewhere,  sufficient  in  all  cases  to  enable  them 
to  keep  up  a  continuous  fruit  exhibit  until  the  crop  of  1904  was  avail- 
able for  exhibit  purposes. 

REMAEKABLE   APPLE    DISPLAY. 

The  fruit  exhibit  for  the  early  part  of  the  season  was  necessarily 
largely  an  apple  exhibit,  because  other  fruits  are  not  so  successfully 


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The  Palace  of  Hoeticultuke  241 

kept  in  cold  storage.  For  that  reason  the  fruit  exhibit  was  of  great 
interest,  because  it  enabled  the  different  States  to  show  the  quality  of 
their  apples  from  a  commercial  standpoint,  since  the  keeping  qualities 
of  the  fruit,  in  and  out  of  cold  storage,  is  an  interesting  point  when  con- 
sidered from  the  commercial  side.  The  situation  enabled  exhibitors 
from  widely  separated  localities  to  compare  the  keeping  qualities  of  their 
fruits  with  others  when  placed  side  by  side  on  the  exhibit  tables. 

TESTING    COUNTLESS    APPLES. 

W.  N.  Irwin,  Assistant  Pomologist  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture, 
who  was  in  charge  of  the  Pomological  display  at  the  world's  fair,  is  the 
official  apple  taster  of  the  United  States  government,  and  not  only  does 
he  taste  the  apples,  but  describes  the  taste  for  the  department. 

Distinguishing  among  three  thousand  new  varieties  of  apples,  each 
with  its  own  taste,  formed  part  of  Mr.  Irwin 's  work  during  the  year  pre- 
ceding the  fair.  Apples  sent  to  the  department  go  directly  to  him,  and 
after  noting  their  color,  size  and  outward  aspect,  he  bites  into  them  and 
then  describes  their  taste. 

Tea  and  wine  tasters  are  known  who  can  by  one  sip  tell  the  year  of 
a  wine  or  the  province  where  the  tea  was  grown,  but  none  of  them  has  so 
delicate  a  taste  as  the  official  apple  taster,  who  takes  a  bite  of  the  apple 
and  after  rolling  the  morsel  about  under  his  tongue,  can  sit  down  and 
describe  it  so  that  it  can  be  entered  on  the  fruit  book  of  the  department 
as  having  not  only  a  color  and  size,  but  a  definite  taste,  different  from 
that  of  all  other  apples. 

A  PECULIAE   OCCUPATION. 

For  the  description  of  tastes  Mr.  Irwin  has  the  largest  vocabulary  of 
any  man  in  the  world.  This  is  necessary,  for  he  must  describe  the  dis- 
tinguishing taste  of  apples  and  know  where  to  draw  the  line  between  the 
thousands  of  varieties.  In  his  descriptions  he  compares  the  apple  under 
consideration  with  others  of  well  known  varieties  and  definitely  places 
its  usefulness  as  an  article  of  food. 

One  apple  he  will  describe  as  good  for  pies,  but  not  especially  suited 
for  apple  sauce,  while  another  will  be  rated  as  a  fine  eating  apple. 

During  the  twelve  years  that  he  has  spent  in  the  Department  of 
Agriculture,  Mr.  Irwin  has  tasted  upwards  of  30,000  species  of  fruit. 


242  The  Palace  op  Hoeticultuee 

Not  only  apples  but  peaches  and  pears  in  great  variety  and  all  the  host 
of  berries. 

It  is  rumored  in  the  department  that  Mr.  Irwin  can  taste  an  apple 
with  his  eyes  blindfolded  and  tell  the  variety,  much  as  the  Nantucket 
sea  captain  could  tell  the  location  of  his  ship  from  the  quality  of  mud 
brought  up  by  the  tallowed  lead.  He  would  not  verify  this  statement 
except  to  say  that  a  man  who  does  the  same  thing  for  twelve  years  ought 
to  get  skillful  at  it.  During  the  exposition  this  official  apple  taster  had 
occasion  to  test  thousands  and  thousands  of  apples  in  the  manner  de- 
scribed. 

COLLECTIVE  FRUIT  EXHIBIT. 

The  Southern  States  had  fresh  fruits  from  the  fields  on  the  tables 
soon  after  the  exposition  opened,  some  having  large  exhibits  of  straw- 
berries on  the  opening  day. 

In  addition  to  the  exhibits  made  by  the  different  States,  the  Depart- 
ment of  Horticulture  maintained  a  collective  fruit  exhibit.  This  exhibit 
was  made  for  the  purpose  of  getting  together  in  one  space,  different 
varieties  of  fruits  grown  in  widely  separated  localities.  In  this  collec- 
tion were  brought  together  specimens  of  leading  varieties  of  fruits  from 
all  countries  and  States.  This  was  done  in  order  to  afford  an  oppor- 
tunity for  those  interested  in  studying  varieties  to  compare  specimens 
of  the  same  variety  from  all  sections  of  the  country  and  to  note  variation 
as  to  size,  color,  shape,  texture  of  flesh  and  flavor.  For  the  benefit  of 
exhibitors  all  the  cold  storage  houses  in  St.  Louis  quoted  a  uniform 
charge  for  storing  fruit  of  fifteen  cents  per  barrel  for  the  first  month  and 
ten  cents  per  month  thereafter,  or  fifty  cents  per  barrel  for  the  prepara- 
tory season,  from  October  to  May. 

HORTICULTURAL  MACHINERY. 

At  no  previous  exposition  had  the  exhibition  of  horticultural  ma- 
chinery, as  such,  been  made  a  feature,  but  here  horticultural  machinery 
of  all  kinds  was  shown  in  the  Implement  room  of  the  Horticultural 
building.  Formerly  horticultural  machinery  was  shown  as  a  part  of 
the  agricultural  machinery  exhibit. 

At  the  present  time,  in  the  central  and  western  States,  horticulture  is 
making  such  rapid  strides  that  there  is  a  demand,  on  the  part  of  fruit 
growers,  for  the  best  horticultural  implements  and  appliances.  In  the 
Horticulture  Implement  room,  complete  exhibits  of  every  description 


The  Palace  of  Horticultuke  243 

of  implements,  including  the  different  machines  manufactured  for 
orchard  cultivation,  and  the  different  kinds  of  apparatus  used  by  fruit 
growers  in  preventing  injury  to  fruits  from  fungous  diseases  and  insects, 
met  this  demand. 

There  has  been  considerable  advancement  made  during  the  last  few 
years  in  the  manufacturing  of  apparatus  of  this  kind,  and  it  was  reflected 
in  a  large  number  of  interesting  exhibits  of  the  different  makes  of 
machines  in  this  class.  The  exhibit  also  included  all  kinds  of  tools  used 
by  gardeners  and  nurserymen.  Lawn  mowers,  garden  rollers,  and 
watering  apparatus  were  shown  in  use  on  the  forty  acres  of  outside  space 
under  the  control  of  the  Department  of  Horticulture. 

FLOEALi   EXHIBITS. 

The  outside  horticultural  exhibits  were  located  on  Agriculture  Hill, 
on  a  fifty  acre  tract  of  land  surrounding  the  Agriculture  and  Horticulture 
Palaces.  The  location  was  one  well  suited  to  the  purpose,  as  it  pos- 
sessed the  necessary  slopes  and  depressions  to  allow  of  the  best  arrange- 
ment of  the  flower  beds  and  aquatic  basins  and  groups  of  shrubs. 

In  less  than  six  months  this  space  was  transformed  from  a  rougk 
unsightly  ridge  into  a  splendidly  laid  out  system  of  landscape  gardens 
surrounding  the  two  Palaces. 

The  exhibits  were  made  by  the  leading  nurserymen  and  seedsmen  of 
the  country  and  covered  a  large  variety  of  trees,  plants,  flowers  and 
bulbs.  There  were  planted  in  this  area  over  17,000  roses  and  100,000 
bulbs. 

The  lakes  for  the  exhibit  of  aquatic  plants  covered  an  area  of  more 
than  two  acres,  and  in  them  were  shown  the  rarest  and  most  beautiful 
specimens  in  existence. 

Over  twenty-five  acres  were  planted  in  grasses,  which  varied  from 
the  darker  greens  to  the  lighter  hues  of  the  far-famed  Kentucky  blue 
grass. 

Never  in  the  history  of  the  world  has  any  royal  palace  been  sur- 
rounded by  such  a  wealth  and  profusion  of  beautiful  flowers  as  made 
poetic  the  approaches  to  the  home  of  the  American  agriculturist  and 
horticulturist,  the  Palaces  of  Agriculture  and  Horticulture  of  tlie 
Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition. 


244  The  Palace  of  Horticultuee 


APPLES  AND  GRAPES  OF   THE  LOUISIANA  PURCHASE   TERRITORY. 

The  profuse  displays  of  fruit,  especially  of  apples,  showed  how  the 
most  prolific  districts  for  these  products  of  the  soil  have  to  a  great  ex- 
tent shifted  from  the  northeastern  regions  of  the  United  States  to  the 
territory  formerly  covered  by  the  Louisiana  Purchase.  Missouri,  Kan- 
sas, Nebraska  and  Idaho  can  now  even  gladden  the  heart  of  the  York 
State  man,  who  fifty  years  ago  would  have  refused  to  believe  that  any 
soil  but  that  of  his  native  commonwealth  could  bear  an  edible  apple. 
The  display  of  grapes  from  the  southwestern  states  was  also  a  revelation, 
as  it  was  in  a  lesser  degree  at  the  World 's  Columbian  Exposition. 

THE  SUCCESSFUL  MASTER  OF  DETAILSv 

A  successful  horticulturist  must  be  a  master  of  details.  Although 
the  farmer  of  to-day  leaves  the  fewest  things  possible  to  chance,  he  is 
more  a  wholesale  manipulator  of  the  soil  than  the  horticulturist.  The 
latter  carefully  examines  each  tree  in  his  orchard  and  each  plant  in  his 
garden,  on  the  lookout  for  pests  and  disease,  and  after  the  fruit  and  ber- 
ries are  matured  he  continues  his  oversight  like  a  careful  father.  In 
order  to  produce  the  best  results  he  must  be  a  master  of  details,  and  the 
exhibits  in  the  Palace  of  Horticulture  not  only  showed  the  finished  work 
but  indicated  the  most  advanced  processes  and  mechanisms  by  which 
his  labors  might  be  lightened  and  at  the  same  time  made  more  effective. 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

FORESTRY,    FISH    AND    GAME. 

The  Display  of  Fish  and  Game — The  Building  Described — Live  Fish  and  Their  Aquarium — 
Primitive  and  Improved  Hunting  Weapons — Fish  and  Game  Resources  of  the  United 
States — Illustrating  Unlawful  Ways  of  Fishing — Alaska  Packing  Company's  Clever 
Exhibit — Dr.  Tarleton  H.  Bean,  Chief  of  Department — The  Government  Live  Fish  Dis- 
play— Fish  History  by  the  United  States  Government — Venerable  and  Pathetic  Stur- 
geon— Rainbow,  Speckled  and  Mountain  Trout — Gold  Fish  and  Other  Aristocrats — Pig, 
Pin  and  Other  Freak  Fish — Department  of  Forestry — Economic  Uses  of  Valuable 
Trees — Indoor  and  Outdoor  Exhibits  of  Forestry — Tree  Planting  for  Farmers — Genuine 
New  Jersey  Mosquito  Exhibit. 

THE  odor  of  rare  woods  and  sweet  scented  barks  lent  an  enchanting 
welcome  to  the  cool  interior  of  the  Forestry,  Fish  and  Game  build- 
ing, for  which  the  Jefferson  Guard  at  the  door  made  the  proud  boast  that 
no  other  building  of  the  kind  at  any  previous  exposition  was  so  com- 
plete. 

Unique  designs  were  ingeniously  worked  out  by  various  state  and 
foreign  decorators.  Kentucky,  Tennessee  and  Arkansas  were  states  to 
the  front  with  displays  of  native  woods,  everything  from  pine  cones  to 
saw  logs,  from  bark  to  washtubs,  being  used  to  advantage  in  adornment. 
The  variety  and  richness  of  coloring  were  as  great  as  that  of  distinctive 
odor.  The  dainty  fragrance  of  woods  from  far-away  Japan  mingled 
pleasingly  with  that  of  Canada's  spruce  and  fir,  the  teakwood  of  the 
South  Sea  with  the  familiar  walnut  and  pine. 

THE  DISPLAY  OF  FISH  AND  GAME. 

As  appropriate  companion  displays  those  of  game  animals  interested 
the  visitor.  Attractive  collections  of  birds,  fur-bearing  animals,  deer, 
elk  and  moose  heads,  together  with  set  pieces  and  groups  illustrating 
the  art  of  the  taxidermist,  were  to  be  seen  on  every  side. 

Artificial  pools  and  running  brooks  abounded  with  fish,  and  rows  of 
aquariums  were  conveniently  placed  for  study  and  inspection,  arranged 
in  the  Fisheries  wing  of  the  building.  Here  the  finny  products  of  the 
diiferent  states  and  countries  were  shown  in  distinct  displays,  including 
mounted  specimens,  pictures,  and  the  nets  and  paraphernalia  of  angling. 

245 


246  FoEESTRY,  Fish  and  Game 

THE  BUILDING   DESCEIBED. 

The  Department  of  Fish  and  Game  was  associated  with  the  Forestry 
Department  in  a  building  300  feet  wide  and  600  feet  long,  universally 
regarded  as  the  best  building  ever  constructed  at  an  international  expo- 
sition for  the  purpose  for  which  it  was  designed.  Its  location  was 
admirable,  and  scarcely  a  single  class  of  the  entire  department  was  lack- 
ing in  full  representation  by  means  of  worthy  exhibits. 

A  characteristic  feature  of  this  building  was  its  central  nave,  85  feet 
wide  and  430  feet  long,  entirely  free  of  posts,  and  so  well  lighted  that 
no  display  was  in  the  least  obscure  to  visitors.  The  east  and  west  ends 
of  the  building  were  also  85  feet  wide,  300  feet  long,  and  free  of  posts. 

THE   LIVE    FISH    AND   THEIE   AQUABIUM. 

The  chief  interest  in  this  department  undoubtedly  centered  in  its  live 
fish  and  game,  which  were  displayed  by  a  number  of  States,  as  well  as 
by  private  individuals. 

The  aquarium,  located  in  the  east  end  of  the  building,  occupied  a 
space  190  feet  long  and  35  feet  wide.  It  had  two  lines  of  tanks,  separated 
by  an  aisle  15  feet  wide.  This  wide  aisle  communicated  through  an 
illuminated  grotto  with  the  aquarium  of  one  of  the  States  in  which  was 
displayed  black  bass,  pike-perch,  crappie,  rainbow  trout,  and  other  well- 
known  food  and  game  fishes.  A  pool  occupying  the  center  of  the  space 
in  this  State  exhibit  contained  immense  catfishes  and  other  characteristic 
species.  The  west  wall  was  handsomely  decorated  to  represent  the  forest 
and  its  game. 

The  nave  contained  two  pools  for  the  display  of  live  beaver,  which 
were  shown  in  their  natural  surroundings,  engaged  in  their  characteristic 
work  of  tree  cutting. 

The  central  pool,  40  feet  in  diameter,  and  five  feet  deep,  provided  for 
a  State  display  of  marine  fishes. 

Groups  of  living  game  birds,  suitable  for  display  indoors,  added 
materially  to  the  attractiveness  of  this  building,  and  the  live  fish  and 
game  were  supplemented  by  the  choicest  collections  of  the  best  art  of 
the  taxidermist. 

Every  class  of  the  Fish  and  Game  Department  was  fully  covered 
by  domestic  as  well  as  foreign  exhibits,  and  these  displays  included  a 
range  of  country  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  and  from  Alaska  and 
Canada  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 


FoEESTKY,  Fish  and  Game  247 

PRIMITIVE    AND    IMPEOVED    HUNTING    WEAPONS. 

The  displays  of  hunting  equipment  from  foreign  countries  were  un- 
usually complete  and  interesting.  They  included  native  weapons,  as 
well  as  the  best  equipment  of  the  modern  hunter.  The  various  imple- 
ments employed  by  sportsmen,  decoys,  gun  cabinets,  tents,  camping  and 
hunting  utensils,  etc.,  were  shown  in  great  variety. 

Among  the  illustrations  shown  were  oil  paintings,  photographs  and 
drawings,  while  in  taxidermy,  furs,  game  trophies,  products  of  hunting 
and  fishing,  literature,  fishing  equipment  of  all  kinds,  such  as  native 
appliances,  modern  netting,  fishery  rigged  boats,  artificial  flies,  reels, 
and  all  other  tackle.  The  exhibits  were  the  most  nearly  complete  and 
most  attractive  of  any  that  have  ever  been  assembled  at  a  great  exposi- 
tion. ' 

To  give  a  good  idea  of  the  extent  of  the  participation  in  this  depart- 
ment, it  is  sufficient  to  say  that  a  single  country  had  300  exhibitors,  and 
another  foreign  country  had  nearly  9,000  separate  items  forming  its 
collections. 

FISH   AND   GAME   RESOURCES  OF   THE  UNITED   STATES. 

Many  of  the  States  showed  their  fish  and  game  resources,  most  of 
them  by  means  of  mounted  specimens  and  groups,  but  several  of  them 
supplemented  taxidermy  by  living  game.  The  great  salmon  fishery  of 
the  Pacific  Coast,  and  the  methods  of  hatching  salmon,  were  illustrated 
in  the  most  comprehensive  and  vivid  manner.  The  methods  of  fish 
culture  and  its  results,  formed  principal  items  of  the  displays  of  several 
States. 

If  old  Izaak  Walton  could  have  been  brought  back  to  life  and  taken 
to  the  world's  fair  he  would  have  spent  all  of  his  time  in  the  Fish, 
Forestry  and  Gamo  and  the  Government  Fish  buildings.  In  these  two 
structures  he  would  have  seen  about  every  kind  of  fish  known  to  man- 
some  of  them  being  in  life  and  some  of  them  in  models,  and  still  others 
as  they  have  come  from  the  taxidermists. 

In  the  Fish  and  Forestry  building  there  were  miles  of  pictures  of 
fish  and  fishing  streams,  and  groups  and  groups  of  fish  as  they  came 
from  the  taxidermist,  but  comparatively  few  exhibits  of  the  actual  living, 
breathing,  swimming  fish.  This  latter  display  was  in  the  Government 
building,  and  in  that  structure  the  lover  of  the  sport  could  find  an 
almost  endless  array  of  the  finny  tribe  to  interest  him. 


248  FoEESTEY,  Fish  and  Game 

In  the  Fish  and  Forestry  huilding  Pennsylvania  and  several  other 
States  made  extensive  exhibits  of  unusual  interest,  particularly  Pennsyl- 
vania. This  State  had  the  tanks  filled  with  the  live  fish,  aside  from 
pictures  of  streams  where  they  live  and  flourish  and  meet  their  fate,  and 
it  had  also  an  extensive  collection  of  taxidermy  fish. 

ILLUSTEATING  Uj^j^lAWFUL  WAYS  OF  FISHING. 

One  of  the  State's  interesting  displays  was  of  nets,  hooks  and  the 
like  that  are  used  contrary  to  the  laws  of  the  State  and  which  had  been 
confiscated.  This  display  included  the  deadly  stick  of  dynamite  which 
desperadoes  explode  in  streams.  The  use  of  dynamite,  be  it  understood, 
is  strictly  forbidden  in  every  State  in  the  Union,  but  there  are  always 
men  who  use  this  means  of  capturing  fish  just  as  there  are  men  who 
will  murder  oneanother  despite  the  laws. 

ALASKA    PACKING    COMPANY'S    CLEVEE    EXHIBIT. 

To  the  extreme  south  of  the  Palace  of  Forestry,  Fish  and  Game,  the 
x'Vlaska  Packing  Company  had  a  remarkable  exhibit  installed.  With  a 
painted  background  showing  the  port  of  Tacoma,  a  clever  mechanical 
arrangement  showed  real  water  coursing  down  from  the  foothills  into 
the  bay.  Lively  trout  and  salmon  disported  themselves  in  this  real 
stream  of  water,  and  every  department  of  the  packing  industry  of  the 
Northwest  was  shown  in  miniature. 

DE.   TAELETON    H.   BEAN,    CHIEF  OF   THE   DEPAETMENT. 

This  interesting  department  at  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition- 
Fish  and  Game— was  under  the  direction  of  an  able  chief,  Dr.  Tarleton 
H.  Bean.  Dr.  Bean  is  a  native  of  Pennsylvania.  He  was  graduated 
from  the  State  Normal  School,  Millersville,  Pa.,  in  1866,  and  received 
the  degree  of  Doctor  of  Medicine  at  the  Columbian  University,  Wash- 
ington, D.  C,  in  1876.  In  1883  the  honorary  degree  of  Master  of  Science 
was  conferred  upon  him  by  the  Indiana  University,  in  appreciation  of 
his  original  publication  upon  ornithology  and  ichthyology. 

In  1900  he  was  elected  a  foreign  corresponding  member  of  the  Danish 
Fisheries  Society.  In  1901  he  was  decorated  by  France  with  the  order 
of  Chevalier  of  the  Legion  of  Honor,  in  appreciation  of  services  ren- 
dered to  the  Paris  Exposition,  in  1900,  while  performing  the  duties  of 
Director  of  Forestry  and  Fisheries  for  the  Commissioner  General  of  the 
United  States, 


FoKESTEY,  Fish  and  Game  249 

When  a  young  man,  Dr.  Bean  was  a  law  student  in  Missouri,  while 
engaged  in  teaching  in  the  public  schools.  He  has  devoted  nine  years 
to  the  profession  of  teaching. 

In  1874  he  became  an  assistant  to  the  United  States  Commissioner  of 
Fish  and  Fisheries,  and  took  up  his  residence  at  AVashington,  D.  C, 
where  he  remained  in  the  service  of  the  United  States  Government  until 
1895.  He  was  appointed  Curator  of  the  Department  of  Fishes  in  the 
United  States  National  Museum,  at  Washington,  in  1878.  In  the  same 
year  he  became  editor  of  the  Proceedings  and  Bulletins  of  that  museum. 
In  1888  ha  was  editorially  associated  with  the  Forest  and  Stream,  of 
New  York  City.  In  1890  he  was  appointed  editor  and  ichthyologist  of 
the  United  States  Fish  Commission,  and  Honorary  Curator  of  Fishes 
in  the  National  Museum.  In  1892  he  became  assistant  in  charge  of  the 
Division  of  Fish  Culture  in  the  United  States  Fish  Commission,  and 
representative  of  that  commission  on  the  Government  Board  at  the 
World 's  Columbian  Exposition,  of  1893.  In  1894  he  was  again  appointed 
representative  of  the  United  States  Fish  Commission,  on  the  Govern- 
ment Board,  at  the  Atlanta  exposition. 

In  1895  he  became  the  Director  of  the  Aquarium  at  New  York  City, 
and  rebuilt  that  world-famous  establishment.  In  1899  he  was  appointed 
Director  of  Forestry  and  Fisheries,  for  the  United  States  Commissioner 
General,  to  the  Paris  Exposition  of  1900.  On  January  1,  1902,  he  was 
appointed  Chief  of  the  Department  of  Fish  and  Game,  of  the  Universal 
Exposition,  at  St.  Louis. 

THE    GOVEENMENT    LIVE-FISH    DISPLAY. 

Before  leaving  the  subject  of  fish  let  us  step  over  to  the  government 
display  and  revel  in  the  presence  of  real,  live  fish.  Here  it  was  that 
oddities  of  the  deep  were  gathered.  For  the  benefit  of  the  man  whose 
wildest  sport  with  the  rod  has  been  along  the  banks  of  some  inland 
stream,  or  some  placid  lake,  and  for  those  urban  dwellers  who  know 
absolutely  nothing  of  the  finny  inhabitants  of  the  world,  there  were  large 
framed  descriptions  of  the  occupants  of  the  tanks  placed  above  each 
tank.  These  descriptions  were  a  wonderful  aid  to  the  seeker  for  fish 
lore,  as  they  gave  not  only  the  name  of  the  fish,  but  its  habitat. 

The  Government  always  does  everything  thoroughly,  and  it  did  not 
neglect  its  duty  with  these  fish.  That  is,  it  gave  all  the  information  that 
you  would  care  to  know  in  those  little  framed  descriptions,  and  the 


250  FoEESTEY,  Fish  and  Game 

result  was  that  after  a  tour  of  the  exhibit  one  departed  with  a  pretty 
good  idea  of  the  fish  in  American  streams,  lakes,  oceans  and  bodies  of 
water,  generally  speaking. 

FISH    HISTOKY,    BY   THE    U.    S.    GOVERNMENT. 

As  stated,  the  Government  fish  exhibit  was  particularly  interesting 
because  of  this  thoroughness.  There  was  not  anything  that  was  over- 
looked. If  you  cared  to  do  so  you  could  follow  the  fish  from  its  incep- 
tion to  its  life.  There  was  a  complete  expose  of  the  hatching  process 
that  the  Government  carries  out  in  the  various  hatcheries,  and,  there- 
fore, you  could  follow  the  modus  operandi  of  the  fish,  observing  it  in  its 
egg  or  spawn  condition  and  gradually  tracing  it  along  to  the  time 
that  it  got  into  one  of  the  big  tanks.  When  it  gets  into  the  tank,  be  it 
borne  in  mind,  it  is  perfectly  able  to  take  care  of  itself.  It  is  this 
comprehensive  knowledge  of  the  fish  in  its  life  from  birth  to  its  end 
that  made  the  Government  exhibit  fascinating  to  one  who  is  a  lover  of 
piscatorial  sport.  • 

VENEEABLE  AND  PATHETIC   STUEGEON. 

The  sturgeon  common  to  Lake  Erie  and  the  Delaware  river  is  one 
of  the  oldest  of  fish.  It  is  a  survivor  of  the  Devonian  age,  and  the 
Government  had  this  old  inhabitant  shown.  It  is  valuable  as  food,  but 
constant  raids  upon  it  are  causing  it  to  disappear.  It  is  an  example 
of  the  pathetic  in  piscatorial  lore  that  its  species  has  survived  for  ages 
and  yet  it  is  to  disappear  as  the  world  becomes  more  and  more  civilized. 
It  is  one  of  the  largest  of  fish. 

Grass  pike,  with  their  long,  narrow  heads  and  silvery  color,  are  a 
good  fish  that  attracted  considerable  attention.  Bass  of  every  variety 
were  shown.  The  large-mouth  bass  is  considered  by  many  epicures  as 
the  premier  fish  food.  It  is  common  from  the  Atlantic  to  Minnesota, 
and  south  to  Texas,  and  has  been  successfully  hatched  and  raised  with- 
out this  area ;  but  this  is  its  habitat,  and  it  is  quite  common  to  all  streams 
therein. 

EXTENSIVE   EXHIBIT  OF  TEOUT. 

The  exhibit  of  trout  was  very  extensive.  There  was  shown  the  small 
trout  as  long  as  your  hand,  commonly  known  as  ''mountain,"  and  a 
dweller  in  the  streams  of  the  mountains  of  the  country.  .  There  is  prac- 
tically no  native  trout  anywhere,  the  fish  caught  in  Colorado,  Wyoming, 


FoEESTEY,  Fish  and  Game  251 

Utah,  Idaho,  Montana  and  other  mountainous  States  being  planted  in  the 
streams  by  the  State  or  Government  hatcheries.  However,  this  fact  does 
not  lessen  its  gameness. 

BAINBOW,    SPECKLED   AND    MOUNTAIN    VAEIETIES. 

The  rainbow  with  his  variegated  colors  and  his  brilliant  belly  and 
the  speckled  beauties  (rightly  named,  for  with  their  pink  and  black  and 
yellow  and  scarlet  spots  they  are  truly  beautiful)  and  other  varieties  of 
the  smaller  trout  were  exhibited.  There  was  also  shown  the  big  rainbow 
that  you  get  in  the  Gunnison  river,  Colorado,  weighing  as  high  as  ten 
and  twelve  pounds  and  which  to  land  taxes  the  skill  of  the  most  expert 
of  anglers. 

In  addition  to  these  mountain  trout  there  was  a  splendid  showing  of 
lake  trout— big  fellows  that  give  you  a  battle  for  life  (or  death,  rather) 
common  to  the  Great  Lakes  and  to  practically  every  lake  in  the  United 
States  north  of  the  Mason  and  Dixon  line. 

The  mountain  trout  is  the  most  delicious  of  known  fish,  in  the  opinion 
of  experts.  It  is  barren  of  small  bones,  so  that  in  eating  one  lifts  the 
rich  meat  directly  from  its  body,  and  one  isn't  bothered  with  numerous 
small  bones.  The  lake  trout,  on  the  other  hand,  has  those  bones  that 
require  time  to  dispose  of,  so  that  in  dissecting  it  you  are  likely  to  be 
late  if  you  make  an  engagement  for  1  o'clock  and  you  sit  down  to  the 
meal  at  noon. 

THE  CHEEEFUL  CODFISH. 

The  cheerful  codfish  was  also  to  be  seen.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
familiar  of  fish,  and  it  may  not  prove  disappointing  to  those  who  board 
to  know  that  it  is  disappearing  so  that  it  now  ranks  as  one  of  the  most 
important  instead  of  one  of  the  most  despised.  While  you  have  to 
suffer  from  meals  of  codfish  your  grandchildren  will  consider  it  a  deli- 
cacy.   The  mackerel,  another  familiar  fish,  was  also  shown. 

Pickerel,  pike,  perch  and  a  score  of  varieties  of  food  fish  were  in  the 
exhibit,  most  of  which  are  pretty  well  known.  These  fish  are  not  of  the 
boneless  variety,  as  you  well  know,  but  they  are  desirable  as  food  and 
their  habitat  is  the  streams  of  practically  the  entire  United  States.  These 
are  the  fish  that  you  catch  with  rod  and  line,  and,  while,  perhaps  they 
cannot  give  you  the  fight  of,  say  a  bass  or  a  front,  they  are  game  fish. 

The  huge  muscalonge  from  the  Lake  Superior  region  were  shown. 


252  FoEESTRY,  Fish  and  Game 

These  are  as  large  as  a  12-year-old  boy,  and  to  land  one  of  them  requires 
great  skill.  They  are  also  found  in  northern  Lake  Michigan,  and  in 
some  of  the  Wisconsin  lakes,  and  to  land  one  is  considered  sufficient 
achievement  in  the  lifetime  of  any  angler. 

GEEAT    WHITEFISH,    HALIBUT    AND    SHEEPHEAD. 

There  was  also  the  large  whitefish,  named  for  his  color,  with  which 
Lake  Erie  once  swarmed,  but  which  is  becoming  scarcer  and  scarcer 
owing  to  the  scores  of  fishing  firms  that  are  constantly  raiding  the  lake 
for  it.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  of  food  fishes.  The  rainbow  halibut,  another 
famous  food  fish,  attracted  crowds  like  a  popular  matinee.  It  is  pink 
striped  and  ''gorgeously  decorated,"  as  a  woman  expressed  it.  Aside 
from  being  a  prize  food  fish  it  is  a  show  fish  and  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  finny  tribe. 

The  sheephead  fish  is  another  "showy"  fish  that  had  its  full  quota 
of  admirers.  It  is  flat  and  has  black  stripes  like  a  zebra  and  silver 
scales  with  heavy  fins  and  flappers.  An  awkward  fish,  apparently,  but 
one  of  the  most  graceful  in  action.  The  triggers,  with  their  narrow 
bodies  and  large  fins,  with  a  fin  as  a  propeller,  also  attracted  attention 
of  those  looking  for  the  curious  in  the  water  kingdom. 

GOLD  nSH  AND  OTHER  ARISTOCRATS. 

The  palm  would  have  gone  to  the  gold  fish  if  there  had  been  one  to 
be  given  by  the  women  visitors  at  the  Government  Fish  building.  There 
you  could  see  these  little  fellows  in  jars,  including  the  Japanese  variety, 
about  as  big  as  a  man's  middle  finger,  and  which  cost  from  $2  to  $7 
each,  and  are  as  delicate  as  a  morning  glory,  and  up  to  the  golden  ide, 
gold  tench  and  other  aristocratic  fish.  Their  brilliantly  golden  bodies 
and  their  grace  made  them  the  center  of  attraction.  The  golden  ide  and 
golden  tench  are  as  large  as  black  bass  and  their  coloring  is  as  the 
sunset. 

These  golden  fish  are  not  much  for  the  table.  They  are  the  fish 
that  are  placed  in  the  larger  aquariums  and  are  without  doubt  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  inhabitants  of  water.  In  water  their  bodies  have  the 
changing  colors  of  a  sunset  and  for  this  reason  one  in  watching  them 
can  see  them  apparently  change  their  shadings,  but  it  is  only  the 
reflections. 


FoEESTRY,  Fish  and  Game  253 


YOUE   OLD   FEIENDS,   THE    CAT   FISH    AND   BLACK   BASS. 

Near  these  golden  beauties  you  could  see  your  old  friend,  the  Mis- 
sissippi Eiver  Cat.  It  was  just  the  same  as  those  that  you  used  to 
catch  as  a  boy  in  the  Father  of  Waters  and  cook  over  a  driftwood  fire. 
This  old  reliable  food  fish  does  not  decrease  in  numbers,  and  is  still 
waiting  for  the  willow  pole  and  the  old-time  line  and  the  hook  baited 
with  an  angleworm. 

It  had  a  neighbor— the  black  bass.  When  the  average  man  looks  at 
a  black  bass  he  thinks  of  the  rocky  place  in  which  it  usually  lies  and  the 
exciting  sport  of  landing  it.  Then  he  sees  it  all  nicely  baked  in  its 
entirety,  and  he  can  almost  see  it  smiling  at  him,  knowing  full  well  that 
he'll  have  to  search  a  long  way  before  it  can  be  hooked. 

The  redsnapper,  another  succulent  fish  that  causes  the  mouth  to 
water  and  makes  you  feel  in  your  pocket  and  count  the  change,  was 
near  by. 

Carp  and  various  other  familiar  fish  were  shown  in  the  tanks,  so 
that  one  fond  of  the  sport  would  become  restless  to  think  he  didn't  go 
fishing  instead  of  to  the  world's  fair. 

PIG,  PIN  AND  OTHEE  FREAK  FISH. 

There  were  freak  fish,  the  name  of  which  you  would  never  know 
were  it  not  for  the  framed  descriptions  above  the  tanks.  For  instance, 
there  was  a  pigfish,  flat  and  about  five  inches  in  length,  with  silvery 
scales,  and  adjoining  was  the  pinfish,  of  the  same  general  style  of 
architecture,  but  smaller.  You  could  find  turtles,  some  of  which  you 
caught  in  your  younger  days,  and  some  of  them  unknown  to  the  average 
man.  There  were  river  and  deep-sea  turtles,  meaning  thereby  that  some 
of  them  were  the  size  of  a  boy's  hat  and  others  nearly  as  large  as  a 
flat-top  office  desk. 

So  much  for  fish !  We  are  now  due  to  return  to  the  Forestry,  Fish 
and  Game  building  and  delve  in  some  of  the  mysteries  of  the  forest. 

DEPARTMENT    OF    FORESTRY. 

The  Department  of  Forestry  was  associated  for  exhibit  purposes 
with  the  Department  of  Fish  and  Game  in  the  building  already  de- 
scribed.   The  space  devoted  to  forestry  was  insignificant  when  we  con- 


254  FoEESTKY,  Fish  and  Game 

sider  tlie  importance  of  its  industries,  which  are  valued  at  $1,000,000,000 
annually.    As  a  matter  of  course  the  building  was  too  small. 

This  department  was  also  in  the  hands  of  Dr.  Bean.  Nearly  all  of 
the  great  States  contributed  to  the  forestry  exhibit,  as  did  also  a  great 
many  important  foreign  countries ;  indeed,  it  was  impossible  to  provide 
all  of  the  space  required  for  these  displays.  They  were  not  limited  to 
forest  products,  but  related  to  forest  policy,  and  to  the  practical  work 
of  tree  planting. 

The  distribution  of  forests  and  of  the  genera  and  species  of  trees  and 
plants  formed  part  of  the  scientific  exhibit ;  also  the  anatomy  and  struc- 
ture of  woods,  as  shown  by  sections  of  various  degrees  of  thickness.  The 
diseases  of  forest  trees,  the  peculiarities  of  forest  growth,  statistics  of 
forest  industries,  and  the  relation  of  forests  to  climate  were  interesting 
features  of  this  department. 

ECONOMIC  USES  OF  VALUABLE  TEEES. 

A  special  object  of  the  selected  display  in  the  Forestry  building  was 
the  complete  illustration  of  the  economic  uses  of  valuable  trees,  such  as 
yellow  pine,  loblolly  pine,  cedar,  cypress,  redwood,  spruce,  hemlock  and 
other  coniferous  trees,  as  well  as  hard  woods.  The  economic  history  and 
utilization  of  these  woods  was  shown  in  great  detail. 

The  secondary  products  of  the  forest,  such  as  woodenware,  cooperage, 
basketry,  etc.,  the  great  industries  based  upon  wood  pulp,  and  other 
objects  of  forest  resources,  notably  alcohol,  turpentine,  resins,  etc.,  helped 
to  complete  the  forest  installation. 

The  United  States  Bureau  of  Forestry  occupied  a  central  large  loca- 
tion in  the  west  end  of  the  building,  and  its  display  covered  almost  the 
whole  of  the  first  group  of  the  Forestry  Department. 

INDOOR  AND  OUTDOOR  EXHIBITS  OF  FORESTRY. 

Its  indoor  exhibit  required  5,000  square  feet  of  floor  space  in  the 
spacious  Forestry  and  Fish  and  Game  building.  This  display  included 
as  most  conspicuous  features  magnificent  large  colored  and  uncolored 
transparencies,  illustrating  forest  trees,  typical  natural  and  planted  tim- 
ber forests,  forest  conditions,  and  forest  topography  in  the  United 
States.  The  various  typical  methods  of  lumbering  were  illustrated ;  also 
the  baleful  destruction  of  forests  by  fire,  insects,  and  other  enemies.    The 


FoEESTEY,  Fish  and  Game  255 

transparencies  showing  these  features  were  installed  in  an  artistically 
constructed  arcade,  illuminated  by  natural  light. 

Other  important  parts  of  the  indoor  exhibit  included  a  full  exposi- 
tion of  the  character  and  extent  of  government  forest  work  in  the  United 
States.  Special  account  was  taken  of  methods  and  results  of  timber 
testing,  the  preservation  of  railroad  and  other  construction  timber  by 
artificial  treatment,  practical  forest  management  and  tree  planting  on 
public  and  private  lands,  turpentine  orcharding  and  the  naval  stores 
industry.  Graphic  illustrations  were  given  of  the  origin,  yield  and  con- 
sumption of  American  timbers. 

The  distribution  of  type  forest  in  different  forest  regions,  and  the 
location  and  extent  of  State  and  Federal  forest  reserves  were  exhibited 
on  a  large  relief  map  of  the  United  States. 

The  outdoor  forest  display,  while  simple,  was  exceedingly  important 
and  instructive  from  educational  and  practical  points  of  view.  It  com- 
prised operations  in  the  management  of  forest  and  farm  woodlands  and 
methods  of  economic  forest  tree  planting.  A  timber  tract  of  some  ten 
acres  was  used  to  carry  demonstrations  of  the  principles  and  practice 
of  conservative  forestry  which  the  bureau  is  now  applying  to  public 
and  private  timber  lands. 

TEEE  PLANTING  FOE   FARMEES. 

Demonstrations  of  the  principles  and  methods  of  tree  planting  for 
profit  on  farms,  denuded  and  treeless  lands,  were  conducted  on  a  separate 
tract  adjoining  the  forage  and  other  farm  crop  exhibits  of  the  United 
States  Bureau  of  Plant  Industry.  This  tree-planting  display  showed 
actual  practice  in  the  formation  of  timber  land  for  farms  and  was  a- 
most  instructive  lesson  to  farmers  and  others  interested  in  tree  planting. 

So  much  popular  interest  has  been  enlisted  in  behalf  of  modern  forest 
management  that  many  of  the  wealthiest  lumbermen  of  the  United  States 
are  now  practicing  the  methods  of  the  Forestry  Bureau  and  treating  the 
forest  as  a  perpetual  crop. 

The  forestry  section  of  the  Forestry,  Fish  and  Game  building  not 
being  large  enough  for  all  the  forestry  exhibits  entered,  a  portion  of 
the  overflow  was  exhibited  in  the  House  of  Hoo-Hoo.  The  building  was 
97  by  139  feet.  Some  twenty  lumber  firms  and  associations,  several  of 
which  are  national  organizations,  made  exhibits  in  the  house,  showing 


256  FoEESTKY,  Fish  and  Game 

the  value  of  lumber  for  building  purposes  and  interior  decoration.  Most 
of  them  also  had  exhibits  in  the  Forestry,  Fish  and  Game  building. 

A  GENUINE  NEW  JERSEY  MOSQUITO  EXHIBIT. 

Thousands  of  genuine  New  Jersey  mosquitoes  invaded  the  Forestry, 
Fish  and  Game  building,  forming  a  part  of  the  New  Jersey  section.  All 
of  them  were  killed  before  they  were  shipped  to  St.  Louis  lest  the  attend- 
ance at  the  exposition  should  dwindle  when  it  became  known  that  the 
ferocious  pests,  for  which  New  Jersey  is  famous,  would  be  in  evidence. 

Several  different  kinds  of  mosquitoes  were  exhibited  in  glass  cases. 
Some  were  spotted  and  some  a  dull  gray  without  spots.  Some  specimens 
were  from  the  salt  marshes  near  the  sea  coast,  where  they  fatten  upon 
persons  from  the  interior  who  seek  rest  and  recreation  upon  the  Jersey 
coast.     Others  came  from  the  fresh-water  pools  and  streams. 

One  mosquito  photograph  was  exhibited.  It  was  18  inches  long  and 
10  inches  broad,  and  magnified  the  mosquito  to  the  size  it  assumes  in  the 
imagination  of  the  summer  girl  or  summer  man  who  finds  one  inside 
the  bar,  and  fights  it  in  the  darkness  as  it  sings  and  bites  through  a 
sultry  summer  night. 

Aside  from  the  matured  specimens  of  the  Jersey  mosquito  exhibited, 
there  were  cases  full  of  baby  mosquitoes,  and  even  the  process  of  their 
hatching  in  the  marshes  was  illustrated. 

The  exhibit  showed  not  only  how  mosquitoes  breed  and  live  in  New 
Jersey,  but  how  their  breeding  places  may  be  sought  out  and  treated  with 
chemicals,  so  that  the  yearly  yield  of  mosquitoes  may  be  curtailed.  This 
was  one  of  many  similar  practical  exhibits. 


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CHAPTER    XIX. 
THE,    STUDY    OF    MANKIND 

Object  of  the  Anthropological  Department — Description  of  Guiding  Genius — Strength  in 
Mixed  Blood — Central  African  Pygmies  an  Ancient  People — The  Tehuelche  Giants 
of  Patagonia — The  Ainu  of  Northern  Japan — A  Slice  of  Real  Indian  Life — A  Model 
Indian  School  on  Exhibition — Mental  and  Manual  Training  of  Indian  Youth — Success 
Through  Temporary  Failure — Remarkable  Display  from  the  Land  of  the  Aztec — 
Egypt  and  Prehistoric  Man — Moundbuilders  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Valleys — The 
Conquest  of  Fire — Evolution  of  the  Knife  and  Wheel — Development  of  the  Louisiana 
Purchase  Illustrated — Physical  Studies  of  Mankind. 

THE  Department  of  Anthropology  found  its  reason  for  being  in 
the  facts,  first,  that  an  exposition  is  the  university  of  the  masses, 
and  second,  that  all  education  leads  to  knowledge  of  Man.  The  aim  of 
other  departments  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  was  to  exhibit 
the  Works  of  Man ;  the  aim  of  this  department  was  to  exhibit  Man  both 
as  creature  and  as  worker;  so  that  the  several  departments,  uniting  in  a 
harmonious  whole,  jointly  represented  Man  and  his  Works. 

OBJECT  OF  THE  AKTHKOPOLOGICAL  DEPARTMENT. 

The  special  object  of  the  Department  of  Anthropology  was  to  show 
each  half  of  the  world  how  the  other  half  lives,  and  thereby  to  promote 
not  only  knowledge  but  also  peace  and  good  will  among  the  nations ;  for 
it  is  the  lesson  of  experience  that  personal  contact  is  the  best  solvent  of 
enmity  and  distrust  between  persons  and  peoples.  The  primary  motives 
of  expositions  are  commercial  and  intellectual;  yet  the  time  would  seem 
to  be  ripe  for  introducing  a  moral  motive  among  the  rest— and  save,  inci- 
dentally, in  the  department  connected  with  education,  there  is  little  place 
for  the  revelation  of  the  moral  motive  except  in  the  Department  of  An- 
thropology. 

So,  in  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition,  this  department  was 
planned  and  organized  in  accordance  with  the  motive  of  bringing  together 
as  many  as  possible  of  the  world's  races  and  peoples  in  a  harmonious  as- 
semblage, to  the  end  that  all  the  world  might  profit  by  mutual  and  sympa- 
thetic study  of  Man  and  Man 's  achievements. 

265 


266  The  Study  of  Mankind 

In  no  small  degree  the  Department  of  Anthropology  was  the  combin- 
ing element  for  the  other  departments  and  also  for  the  special  exhibits  of 
nations,  States,  and  corporations;  accordingly  it  not  only  touched  in  its 
work  and  exhibits  various  portions  of  a  broad  field,  but  it  was  so  placed  on 
the  ground  as  to  form  a  series  of  connecting  links  between  cognate  if  not 
not  closely  related  exhibits.  The  offices  and  several  of  the  displays  were 
arranged  in  the  Anthropology  building  adjacent  to  the  Administration 
headquarters,  and  also  to  the  Hall  of  Congresses. 

ARRANGEMENT    OF    LIVING    EXHIBITS. 

The  living  exhibits  were  gathered  about  the  Indian  School  building, 
standing  on  a  sightly  location  midway  between  Administration  headquar- 
ters and  the  Philippine  exhibit.  The  more  advanced  aborigines  were  in  and 
near  the  Indian  school,  while  less-advanced  tribes  occupied  ranges  extend- 
ing thence  to  Arrowhead  Lake  and  the  Philippine  exhibit.  The  Alaska 
building,  with  its  aboriginal  decorations  in  the  form  of  lofty  totem  poles 
and  carved  house  fronts,  was  placed  between  the  Anthropology  building 
and  the  Indian  School.  Thence  westward  stretched  the  extensive  grounds 
allotted  to  the  Department  of  Athletics,  in  which,  under  a  distinct  and 
capable  management,  the  more  attractive  and  strenuous  activities  of 
mankind  were  effectively  displayed. 

The  department  was  made  up  of  sections,  each  designed  to  illustrate  a 
distinctive  and  attractive  aspect  of  practical  anthropology  by  means  of 
typical  exhibits.  It  was  not  planned  to  cover  the  entire  field  of  the  Science 
of  Man  in  these  sections  and  exhibits ;  the  aim  was  to  make  each  display 
representative,  and  to  give  it  such  place  on  the  grounds  and  in  the  liter- 
ature of  the  exposition  as  first  to  attract  and  next  to  educate  citizens  and 
foreign  visitors— to  lead  all  to  realize  with  Pope  that— 
The  proper  study  of  Mankind  is  Man. 

DESCRIPTION   OF  GUIDING  GENIUS. 

Professor  W.  J.  McGee,  the  distinguished  scientist  who  was  in  charge 
of  the  Department  of  Anthropology,  is  a  native  of  Iowa.  A  student  from 
early  childhood,  he  studied  Latin,  higher  mathematics,  and  astronomy, 
and  engaged  in  land-surveying  and  justice  court  practice  while  still  at 
farm  work.  In  1874-76  he  invented,  patented  and  manufactured  a  num- 
ber of  agricultural  implements,  working  at  forge  and  bench.  In  1875-77 
he  studied  archaeology  and  geology,  and  for  the  four  succeeding  years  was 


The  Study  of  Mankind  *  267 

engaged  in  making  geologic  and  topographic  surveys  of  Northeastern 
Iowa  covering  17,000  square  miles— the  most  extensive  survey  ever  exe- 
cuted in  America  without  public  aid.  In  1881-2  he  examined  and  reported 
upon  building  stones  of  Iowa  for  the  Tenth  Census.  He  then  became 
attached  to  the  United  States  Geological  Survey,  and  in  1885  assumed 
charge  of  an  important  division.  He  surveyed  and  mapped  300,000  square 
miles  in  the  Southeastern  United  States,  and  compiled  geological  maps 
of  the  United  States  and  of  New  York.  He  investigated  the  Charleston 
earthquake  in  1886,  and  a  few  years  later  explored  Tiburon  island  and 
made  exhaustive  researches  among  its  people,  a  savage  tribe  never  before 
studied.  -He  was  Ethnologist  in  charge  of  the  Government  Bureau  of 
American  Ethnology  from  1893-1903,  resigning  in  the  latter  year  to  as- 
sume duty  with  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition. 

Dr.  McGee  is  President  of  the  American  Anthropological  Associa- 
tion; ex-President  of  the  Anthropological  Society  of  Washington;  ex- 
Acting  President  of  the  A.  A.  A.  S. ;  Vice-President  of  the  National  Geo- 
graphic Society ;  Vice-President  of  the  Archaeological  Institute  of  Amer- 
ica; Associate  Editor  of  the  National  Geographic  Magazine;  Associate 
Editor  of  the  American  Anthropologist ;  Author-Editor  of  the  Department 
of  Anthropology  in  the  International  Encyclopedia;  and  a  founder  of 
the  Geological  Society  of  America  and  the  Columbia  Historical  Society. 
In  1902-3  he  prepared  the  plan  for  the  organization  of  the  International 
Commission  of  Archaeology  and  Ethnology,  and  is  Dean  of  the  American 
Commission  therein. 

Dr.  McGee  is  the  author  of  Pleistocene  History  of  Northeastern  Iowa, 
1891 ;  Geology  of  Chesapeake  Bay,  1888 ;  The  Lafayette  Formation,  1892 ; 
The  Potable  Waters  of  Eastern  United  States,  1894 ;  the  Sicuan  Indians, 
1897;  Primitive  Trephining  in  Peru,  1898;  besides  numerous  scientific 
memoirs  published  by  the  Government,  and  about  30O  minor  articles 
comprising  numerous  contributions  to  magazines  and  scientific  publica- 
tions. His  latest  work  is  a  history  of  the  Seri  Indians,  published  in  1901. 

STEENGTH  IN  MIXED  BLOOD. 

The  study  of  the  world's  peoples  and  nations  reveals  the  interesting 
fact  that,  within  limits  not  yet  fully  understood,  the  vigor  of  peoples 
is  measured  by  complexity  of  blood  no  less  than  by  extent  of  knowledge 
or  culture.  Herein  lies  reason  enough  for  the  study  of  race-types;  and 
here,  too,  may  well  lie  the  basis  of  that  irrato  and  intuitive  eiTriosi<:Y 


268  *  The  Study  of  Mankind 

which  renders  alien  races  so  attractive  to  all  mankind.  It  was  the  object 
of  the  section  of  Ethnology  at  once  to  gratify  instinctive  curiosity  and  to 
satisfy  the  more  serious  impulses  of  students  by  bringing  together  a  more 
complete  assemblage  of  the  world's  peoples  than  had  hitherto  been  seen. 
Circumstances  did  not  permit  the  gathering  of  all  the  world's  peoples  on 
the  exposition  grounds ;  but  the  programme  provided  for  assembling,  in 
the  Department  of  Anthropology  and  elsewhere,  representatives  of  all 
the  world 's  races,  ranging  from  the  smallest  pygmies  to  the  most  gigantic 
peoples,  from  the  darkest  blacks  to  the  dominant  whites,  and  from  the 
lowest  known  culture  (the  dawn  of  the  Stone  Age)  to  its  highest  culmina- 
tion in  that  Age  of  Metal,  which,  as  this  exposition  showed,  is  now  matur- 
ing in  the  Age  of  Power. 

CENTEAX.    AFRICAN    PYGMIES    AN    ANCIENT    PEOPLE. 

Through  the  energetic  co-operation  of  Rev.  S.  P.  Verner,  President  of 
Stillman  Institute  (Tuskaloosa,  Alabama),  a  group  of  Batwa  pygmies 
from  Central  Africa,  were  secured  to  form  part  of  the  outdoor  exhibit 
of  this  section.  Since  the  time  of  Herodotus  the  existence  of  African 
pygmies  has  been  known,  though  it  was  only  a  few  years  ago  that  they 
were  rediscovered  by  Du  Chaillu,  Schweinfurth  and  Stanley.  The  studies 
of  Mr.  Verner  and  others  have  shown  that  the  little  people  are  really  the 
aborigines  of  the  Dark  Continent,  of  which  the  greater  portion  have  been 
displayed  by  full-sized  tribes.  Practically  nothing  is  known  of  the 
language,  laws,  or  beliefs  of  the  pygmies,  though  travelers  say  that  they 
are  skillful  hunters,  slaying  the  lion  and  the  elephant  and  even  the 
rhinoceros  and  hippopotamus,  with  poisoned  darts.  But  two  or  three 
pygmies  have  ever  left  their  native  ranges ;  none  had  hitherto  crossed  the 
Atlantic  to  the  western  hemisphere.  Mr.  Verner 's  expedition  had  the 
favor  of  His  Majesty,  King  Leopold  of  Belgium,  who  took  a  personal  in- 
terest in  the  enterprise. 

THE  TEHUELCHE  GIANTS  OF  PATAGONIA. 

Through  the  co-operation  of  Professor  J.  B.  Hatcher,  of  Carnegie  Mu- 
seum, a  party  was  organized  in  Argentina,  in  immediate  charge  of  Dr. 
Arthur  Fenton,  of  Gallegas,  to  visit  the  Straits  of  Magellan  and  secure 
the  attendance  of  Chief  Mulato,  head  man  of  the  Tehuelche  tribe,  in 
visiting  the  exposition  with  his  wife,  daughter,  son-in-law  and  grandchil- 
dren, and  one  or  two  other  families  of  the  tribe.    Since  the  time  of  Magel- 


The  Study  of  Mankind  269 

Ian  these  Indians  have  been  known  as  Patagonian  Giants;  so  far  as 
measurements  have  been  made,  their  mean  stature  exceeds  that  of  any 
other  known  people  save,  probably,  the  Seri  Indians  of  Northwestern 
Mexico.  The  Tehuelche  family  occupies  a  skin  house  or  toldo ;  they  sub- 
sist partly  on  sea  food,  partly  on  spoil  of  the  inland  chase ;  the  men  are 
skillful  in  navigating  large  canoes  containing  fires  for  warmth  and  cook- 
ing; in  the  chase  they  depend  chiefly  on  the  bolas— a  triple  thong  loaded 
with  stone  weights  at  the  ends— which  is  thrown  a  great  distance  to  en- 
tangle the  quarry. 

The  family  groups  with  their  appurtenances,  including  one  or  two 
toldos  and  fireplace-canoes,  were  located  at  the  fair,  on  the  shores  of 
Arrowhead  Lake  adjacent  to  the  African  pygmies  and  the  ethnologic  dis- 
play from  the  Philippines.  As  it  was  the  first  time  these  interesting  peo- 
ple have  ever  been  seen  in  North  America,  an  entire  chapter  (VI)  has 
been  set  aside  for  a  detailed  story  concerning  them. 

THE  AINU   OF   NOETHEEN    JAPAN. 

Family  groups  representing  various  other  seldom-seen  aborigines  were 
on  the  grounds  of  the  department.  Among  these  were  the  Ainu  tribe 
of  the  Island  of  Hokkaido  (Northern  Japan),  representing  the  primitive 
race  of  the  Japanese  Empire,  and  illustrating  in  their  occupations  and 
handiwork  some  of  the  most  significant  stages  in  industrial  development 
known  to  students— germs  of  some  of  those  material  arts,  which,  in  their 
perfection,  have  raised  Japan  to  leading  rank  among  the  world 's  nations ; 
the  Cocopa  Indians,  from  the  Lower  Colorado,  a  tribe  still  cultivating 
aboriginal  crops  by  primitive  methods,  and  whose  men  are  equal  in  stature 
to  the  Patagonians,  though  the  women  are  shorter;  the  Seri  Indians,  of 
Tiburon  island,  northwestern  Mexico,  probably  the  most  gigantic  tribe 
extant,  whose  culture  is  so  low  that  they  may  be  classed  as  just  entering 
the  Stone  Age;  the  "Red  Negroes"  of  Central  Africa,  represented  by 
Chief  Ndombe  and  his  court,  occupying  the  upper  Kasai  valley  and 
forming  an  ethnic  strain  and  social  class  not  hitherto  studied  by  scientists ; 
and  about  a  score  of  the  aboriginal  tribes  still  surviving  in  the  United 
States.  The  last  named  included  the  Pueblo  groups,  occupying  struc- 
tures modeled  after  portions  of  their  native  pueblos;  plains  tribes,  with 
their  tipis,  shields,  and  other  insignia  so  arranged  as  to  express  social 
organization;  basket  makers  from  northern  California  and  central  Ari- 
zona ;  blanket  weavers,  potters,  skin  dressers,  bead  workers,  copper  shap- 


270  The  S^tudy  of  Mankind 

ers,  arrow  makers,  and  other  native  artisans  pursuing  tlieir  craft  accord- 
ing to  the  ways  of  their  ancestors  in  pre-Columbian  times.  The  several 
groups  typified  aboriginal  life,  and  both  special  students  and  general  vis- 
itors found  in  them  an  index  to  the  inner  life  of  the  Red  Race,  whose  rise 
and  passing  form  the  opening  epic  of  American  history.  Several  groups 
clustered  about  notable  figures ;  Chief  Joseph,  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe,  one 
of  the  ablest  leaders  ever  sprung  from  American  soil ;  an  Apache  chief, 
who  withstood  the  United  States  army  for  years ;  the  stately  Kiowa  chief, 
Quanah  Parker— these  are  among  the  native  personages  who  attended 
the  exposition  and  participated  in  the  work  of  the  department. 

A  SLICE  OF  EEAL  INDIAN  LIFE. 

Some  of  the  aboriginal  groups  (especially  those  from  the  Pueblo 
region)  were  sufficiently  large  to  permit  adequate  display,  not  only  of 
the  collective  industries  and  games,  but  of  the  ceremonial  life  of  the 
tribes.  After  much  consideration  in  the  Indian  Bureau,  it  was  decided, 
on  the  recommendation  of  Superintendent  McCowan,  that  the  best  possi- 
ble Indian  exhibit  would  be  one  in  conjunction  with  a  model  Indian  school ; 
and  furthermore,  that  the  only  satisfactory  exhibit  of  Indian  life  would 
be  one  in  which  the  natives  conformed  to  their  customary  habits  and 
observances  in  every  particular.  Accordingly,  set  games  were  played  and 
formal  ceremonies  performed,  not  in  a  spectacular  way,  but  at  the  times 
and  seasons  fixed  by  immemorial  custom ;  so  the  studious  visitor  enjoyed 
on  the  exposition  grounds,  opportunities  for  accurate  study  hardly  less 
useful  than  those  hitherto  available  only  through  weeks  or  months  of  life 
in  Indian  settlements. 

The  industries,  too,  were  normal,  and  visitors  were  enabled  to  obtain 
as  souvenirs  or  as  specimens  for  scientific  study,  objects  of  Indian  handi- 
work produced  by  native  methods  under  their  own  inspection.  These  in- 
cluded blankets  and  woven  belts ;  vases  or  ollas,  plain  and  decorated ;  bask- 
ets for  cooking  and  other  purposes ;  native  metal  work  in  silver  and  cop- 
per ;  moccasins,  medicine  bags,  and  other  articles  of  dressed  skin ;  feather 
work  and  bead  work  in  bone,  shell  and  porcupine  quills ;  bows,  arrows  and 
cjuivers,  with  arrow  points  of  stone,  bone  and  antler ;  fire  drills,  etc.  The 
transitional  phase  of  aboriginal  life  was  illustrated  by  a  typical  sutlerj^, 
or  trading-post,  through  which  most  of  the  tribal  groups  obtained  sup- 
plies. 

While  the  living  groups  formed  the  chief  feature  of  the  section  of 


The  Study  of  Mankind  271 

Ethnology,  these  were  supplemented  by  notable  exhibits  of  aboriginal 
handiwork,  including  one  of  the  richest  assemblages  of  basketry  and 
blauketry  extant  (the  Huckel  collection) ;  they  were  supplemented,  also, 
by  the  exhibits  in  the  section  of  Archaeology,  and,  in  some  measure,  by 
that  superb  collection  of  the  finest  handiwork  produced  in  all  the  British 
colonies  known  as  the  Queen's  Jubilee  Presents.  This  collection  of  carved 
ivory,  wrought  gold,  native  gems  and  finely  set  jewels,  feather  plumes 
and  fans,  tooled  leather,  and  other  products  of  the  craft  of  the  most  skill- 
ful artificers  in  both  Orient  and  Occident,  filling  some  thirty  large  cases, 
was  exhibited  at  the  exposition  by  the  special  favor  of  His  Majesty,  King 
Edward  VII,  and  was  entrusted  to  the  Department  of  Anthropology,  be- 
ing housed  in  the  most  spacious  apartment  in  the  Library  building  (Hall 
of  Congresses).     (See  Chapter  V.) 

THE  PRICELESS  VATICAN  COLLECTION. 

To  this  department,  too,  was  confided  the  custody  of  the  Vatican  col- 
lection— a  priceless  assemblage  of  historical  and  other  treasures  repre- 
senting the  internal  growth  and  extension  of  influence  of  the  Vatican  dur- 
ing the  centuries,  sent  to  the  exposition  by  special  dispensation  of  His 
Holiness,  Pope  Pius  XIII,  These  notable  collections  linked  the  exhibits 
of  this  section  with  those  of  the  section  of  History. 

The  primary  motive  of  the  ethnological  exhibits  was  to  show  the  world 
a  little  known  side  of  human  life ;  yet  it  was  the  aim  to  do  this  in  such 
manner  that  all  might  learn  something  of  that  upward  course  of  human 
development  beginning  with  the  Dark  Ages  of  tooth  and  claw  and  stone 
tools,  and  culminating  in  the  modern  enlightenment  illustrated  in  the 
great  Exhibit  Palaces  and  the  International  Congresses. 

A    MODEL   INDIAN    SCHOOL   ON    EXHIBITION. 

The  fifty-eighth  Congress  made  an  appropriation  for  a  Model  Indian 
School,  to  be  exhibited  at  the  exposition,  and  by  authority  of  the  Hon. 
E.  A.  Hitchcock,  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  the  Commissioner  of  Indian 
Affairs,  Hon.  W.  A.  Jones,  appointed  Mr.  S.  M.  McCowan  superintendent 
of  this  Indian  exhibit.  Subsequently,  Mr.  McCowan  was  made  Assist- 
ant Chief  of  the  Department  of  Anthropology,  in  which  the  plan  for  the 
Indian  School  was  merged. 

To  accommodate  the  exhibit  a  special  building  was  erected.  Appro- 
priately enough  the  finishing  of  the  interior  was  left  to  advanced  pupils 


272  iThe  Study  of  Mankind 

in  the  Indian  training  schools,  who  thereby  demonstrated  their  pro- 
ficiency and  illustrated  the  practical  character  of  modern  Indian  education. 

MENTAL.  AND  MANUAL  TRAINING  OF  INDIAN  YOUTH. 

On  one  side  of  a  central  hallway,  overlooking  the  other  exposition 
buildings,  were  the  class-rooms  and  work-rooms,  in  which  both  the  mental 
and  manual  training  of  the  Indian  youth  (of  both  sexes)  was  carried 
forward  by  Indian  and  white  teachers  under  Mr.  McCowan's  directions; 
on  the  other  side  of  the  hall  were  a  series  of  booths  in  which  groups  of  old 
Indian  artisans  were  engaged  in  j^rimitive  manual  operations,  so  that 
every  passer  by  could  see  at  a  glance  the  contrast  between  the  old  and  the 
new,  the  barbaric  and  the  enlightened.  About  100  pupils  of  ditferent 
grades  were  assembled,  and  so  far  as  practicable  there  were  children  of 
parents  gathered  in  the  family  groups— one  of  the  objects  of  the  exhibit 
being  to  illustrate  a  primary  feature  of  modern  Indian  education,  i.  e., 
that  of  training  the  youth  in  the  sight  of  their  parents  in  order  that  all 
may  rise  together  toward  the  plane  of  self-supporting  and  self-respecting 
citizenship. 

In  an  extension  of  the  building  was  an  auditorium  designed  to  accom- 
modate an  Indian  orchestra,  which. discoursed  both  Caucasian  and  native 
music ;  it  was  also  used  for  lectures  and  conferences  in  which  the  White 
and  Red  races  participated  jointly.  On  the  balcony  in  front,  an  Indian 
band  was  stationed,  overlooking  a  broad  parade  ground  devoted  to  mili- 
tary drill  and  training  of  the  larger  boys.  The  basement  contained  a 
kitchen  and  dining-room,  in  which  culinary  teaching  was  both  utilized 
and  illustrated,  while  the  upper  story  served  as  a  model  dormitory  for 
pupils  and  teachers. 

SUCCESS  THROUGH  TEMPORARY  FAILURE. 

One  of  the  gravest  tasks  of  any  progressive  nation  is  that  of  earing 
for  alien  wards,  i.  e.,  bearing  "the  White  Man's  burden,"  as  told  by 
Kipling,  or  performing  the  Strong  Man's  duty,  as  felt  by  most  modern 
statesmen.  No  nation  may  be  proud  of  the  way  in  which  this  task  has 
been  done  in  the  past ;  our  own  failures  in  this  regard  have  brought  the 
Indian  Office  and  in  the  United  States  Congress  to  a  stage  which  shows 
that  at  last  our  Indian  education  is  good— not  beyond  betterment,  yet 
good  enough  to  be  a  boon  to  the  survivors  of  our  passing  race  and  worthy 
to  be  exhibited  at  the  St.  Louis  concourse  of  nations.    Such  is  the  motive 


The  Study  of  Mankind  273 

of  the  modern  Indian  School,  the  }3roduct  of  the  wisdom  of  three  genera- 
tions of  Indian  teachers.  The  school  is  designed  not  merely  as  a  con- 
summation, but  as  a  prophecy ;  for  now  that  other  primitive  peoples  are 
passing  under  the  beneficent  influence  and  protection  of  the  Stars  and 
Stripes,  it  is  needful  to  take  stock  of  past  progress  as  a  guide  to  the  future. 
Over  against  the  Indian  on  the  grounds,  just  beyond  Arrowhead  Lake, 
stood  the  Filipino,  even  as  over  against  the  Eed  Man  on  the  continent, 
just  beyond  the  Pacific,  stands  the  brown  man  of  the  nearer  Orient ;  and 
it  was  the  aim  of  the  Model  Indian  School  to  extend  an  influence  across 
both  intervening  waters  which  should  be  to  the  benefit  of  both  races. 

EEMARKABLE  DISPLAY  FROM  THE  LAND  OF  THE  AZTEC. 

The  collections  exhibited  in  this  section  were  installed  in  the  perma- 
nent fireproof  structure  known  as  the  Anthropology  building.  The 
greater  portion  of  the  exhibits  was  contributed  by  countries  and  States. 
From  Mexico— the  Land  of  the  Aztec  and  seat  of  the  highest  native  ad- 
vancement in  North  America— came  a  remarkable  collection,  including 
originals  and  reproductions  of  her  most  striking  relics;  carved  idols  of 
stone  and  wood  and  decorated  figurines  of  fictile  ware ;  obsidian  cores  and 
blades,  the  latter  so  excellent  as  to  serve  for  surgical  instruments  or 
razors;  calendar  stones  and  other  calendric  inscriptions;  native  hiero- 
glyphic books  on  maguey  paper ;  primitive  sunbursts  of  polished  obsidian 
and  pyrite ;  amulets  and  esoteric  emblems  of  beaten  and  semifused  gold ; 
sculptures  and  portrait  moldings  representing  personages  of  Mexico's 
unwritten  history— these  are  some  of  the  contributions  taken  from  the 
Museo  Nacional  and  other  repositories  in  the  interests  of  the  exposition. 
A  unique  feature  of  the  display  was  a  full-size  reproduction  of  a  portion 
of  the  ancient  city  of  Mitla. 

EGYPT  AND  PEEHISTOPJC  MAN. 

From  Egypt  came  collections  befitting  the  Land  of  the  Lotus,  in  which 
civilization  found  its  earliest  germ ;  an  entire  tomb,  mummies  and  mummy 
cases  of  royal  personages  and  of  the  deified  cat,  with  scarabs  and  other 
sacramental  symbols  of  an  early  cult,  being  among  the  objects  on  exhibi- 
tion. 

Egypt  is  the  world's  treasure-house  of  antiquities,  and  from  these  the 
finest  and  most  typical  were  chosen  to  tell  the  tale  of  the  rise  and  decline 
of  her  dynasties.  These  included  restorations  in  minature  of  some  of  the 


274  The  Study  of  Mankind 

liioat  notable  sites,  so  wrought  as  faithfully  to  reproduce  the  original 
character. 

France  sent  a  collection  of  rare  relics  designed  to  illustrate  the  devel- 
opment of  prehistoric  Man  from  his  advent  in  Tertiary  times  up  to  his 
entrance  into  the  Bronze  Age,  as  traced  by  her  eminent  archaeologists ;  the 
chipped  flints  ascribed  to  the  Ancient  River  Men  being  given  prominence. 

MOUND  BUILDERS  OF  THE  OHIO  AND  MISSISSIPPI  VALLEYS. 

Under  a  special  State  appropriation,  Ohio  contributed  a  rich  collec- 
tion of  relics  left  by  the  mound-building  Indians  who  inhabited  the  fertile 
valleys  of  the  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi  up  to  the  times  of  De  Soto  and 
La  Salle.  The  exhibit  comprised  map  models  of  the  Great  Serpent 
Mound,  the  remarkable  circular  earthwork  of  the  Miami  valley,  and  other 
reproductions,  as  well  as  a  rich  collection  (from  the  Museum  of  the  State 
University)  of  stone  implements  and  weapons,  bone  fish-hooks  and 
needles,  copper  gorgets  and  knives,  and  other  artifacts  recording  the  in- 
dustrial life  of  one  of  the  most  advanced  native  populations  of  our  pres- 
ent territory. 

THE  CONQUEST  OF  FIRE. 

In  addition  to  the  numerous  special  collections,  plans  were  perfected 
for  exhibiting  a  number  of  what  may  be  called  synthetic  series  illustrating 
the  greatest  among  the  early  advances  of  mankind.  Perhaps  the  initial 
step  in  human  progress  was  the  Conquest  of  Fire,  since  man  is  essentially 
the  fire-making  animal;  and  this  step  was  illustrated  by  a  series  of  de- 
vices ranging  from  the  fire-drill  and  fire-pump  representing  the  stage  in 
which  Fire— the  Red  Flower  of  East  Indian  lore— was  thought  an  ani- 
mate deity  and  its  production  a  vital  process,  through  pyrite  (or  fire- 
stone)  apparatus  to  the  flint  and  steel  and  tinder-box,  and  thence  to  the 
sulphur  stick  and  phosphorus  match,  standing  for  the  stage  in  which  Fire 
is  recognized  as  a  chemical  process. 

EVOLUTION  OF  THE  KNIFE  AND  W^HEEL. 

Scarcely  less  important  was  the  Development  of  the  Knife,  which  was 
illustrated  by  prehistoric  relics  and  primitive  artifacts  ranging  from  the 
emblematic  tooth  and  talon  of  lowest  savagery  through  the  sharp  edges 
of  shell  and  bamboo  stem  to  the  blade  of  wood  and  chipped  or  flaked  stone, 
and  thence  to  cold-hammered  copper  and  meteoric  iron,  and  so  on  to  the 


The  Stu1)y  op  MAi^Kmb  275 

stage  of  hot  forging,  with  the  alloying  and  smelting  of  modern  metallurgy ; 
for  although  the  way  was  long  from  tooth  of  deitied  beast,  as  a  symbol 
of  supremacy,  to  the  jeweled  sword  as  an  emblem  of  militant  power,  its 
course  may  be  shown  in  a  few  score  specimens  properly  arranged  and 
labeled. 

Another  marker  of  human  progress  was  the  Evolution  of  the  Wheel— 
the  basis  of  all  modern  mechanics— which  was  easily  represented  by  a  ser- 
ies of  objects  from  its  beginning,  as  a  divinatory  or  gaming  device, through 
its  faith-inspired  use  as  a  roller  under  heavy  beams  and  stones,  up  to  its 
employment  in  primitive  vehicles  when  animals  were  domesticated,  and 
thence  to  its  incorporation  in  machines  as  a  transmitter  of  power  — indeed, 
the  exposition  grounds  revealed  every  stage  in  the  evolution  of  the  wheel, 
from  the  pole  and  ring  game  of  the  Apache  and  the  hair-whorl  of  the 
Hopi  Indian  maiden  up  to  the  rotary  propeller  of  the  airship. 

DEVELOPMENT  OF  PIPES  AND  SMOKING. 

Pipes  and  smoking  may  not  represent  a  specially  important  line  of 
human  development,  yet,  since  the  Eed  Man  gave  the  White  tobacco  and 
pipes  in  exchange  for  his  rum  and  glassware,  it  seemed  especially  appro- 
priate to  represent  by  actual  objects  (both  prehistoric  and  recent)  the 
development  of  the  pipe  and  smoking  in  America. 

Just  as  it  was  the  purpose  of  the  section  of  Ethnology  to  illustrate 
the  trend  of  human  progress  by  means  of  groups  representing  various 
stages  of  development,  so  it  was  the  motive  of  the  section  of  Archjeology 
to  demonstrate  the  same  general  course  of  progress  by  specimens  and 
series  representing  the  successive  stages  of  advancement  during  ^Drehis- 
toric  times ;  and  the  record  of  the  relics  was  measurably  supplemented  by 
the  living  records  of  another  section  showing  the  later  development  of  a 
vast  territory  from  a  savage  wilderness  to  the  great  commonwealth  of 
which  the  seat  of  the  exposition  is  the  metropolis. 

DEVELOPMENT  OF  THE  LOUISIANA  PURCHASE  ILLUSTRATED. 

The  strong  desire  to  make  the  fair  an  exposition  of  Progress  naturally 
operated  to  curtail  provision  for  extensive  historical  exhibits;  accord- 
ingly, the  display  of  early  records  and  historic  relics  was  practically  lim- 
ited to  those  pertaining  to  the  development  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase. 
In  framing  the  plans  for  this  section  and  in  arranging  for  the  displays, 
the  department  had  the  courteous  and  efficient  co-operation  of  the  Mis- 


276  The  Study  or  iMankind 

souri  Historical  Society,  while  other  institutions  of  kindred  character  in 
neighboring  States  contributed  the  material  requisite  to  illustrate  the 
growth  and  aggrandizement  of  the  original  Louisiana  Territory.  The 
historical  exhibits  occupied  the  second  floor  of  the  Anthropology  building. 

So  far  as  practicable  the  serial  or  synthetic  method  was  followed  in 
this  section.  Thus  the  management  proceeded  to  epitomize  the  develop- 
ment of  St.  Louis  in  a  series  of  manuscript  and  printed  records  supple- 
mented by  all  available  maps,  plans  and  sketches  of  the  city  and  its 
environs,  together  with  portraits  of  historic  personages  and  some  of  the 
most  significant  relics,  covering  the  period  from  the  early  French  and 
Spanish  occupation  up  to  the  present— in  which  the  metropolis  spoke  for 
itself. 

Similarly,  there  was  assem^bled,  so  far  as  practicable  in  chronological 
order,  the  records  and  relics  of  America's  first  great  exploring  expedition, 
that  of  Lewis  and  Clark ;  and  in  the  same  way  the  explorations  of  Father 
De  Smet,  Pere  Marquette,  and  other  pioneers  were  illustrated— the  ma- 
terial pertaining  to  the  latter  missionary  including  the  unique  oil  portrait 
recently  recovered  accidentally  in  Canada.  So,  also,  the  leading  events  and 
personages  in  the  history  of  the  States  carved  out  of  the  Purchase  were 
shown  in  carefully  selected  records  and  relics  arranged  in  chronological 
or  other  simple  sequence. 

The  most  striking  example  of  human  progress  in  all  the  world 's  his- 
tory is  that  afforded  by  the  Louisiana  Purchase  during  the  century  that 
ended  in  the  creation  of  this  exposition.  Every  etfort  was  directed  toward 
lendering  the  historical  display  sufficiently  full  and  comprehensive,  to 
inspire,  no  less  than  to  instruct,  both  American  citizens  and  visitors  from 
other  lands. 

PHYSICAL  AND  MENTAL  STUDIES  OF   MANKIND. 

Through  the  work  of  the  Department  of  Anthropology,  as  well  as 
through  the  enterprise  of  other  departments  and  the  unprecedented  co- 
operation of  foreign  countries,  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  com- 
prised a  more  complete  assembly  of  the  peoples  of  the  world  than  had 
ever  before  been  brought  together ;  and  this  assembling  of  races  and  peo- 
ples was  utilized  in  systematic  studies  of  both  the  physical  and  the  men- 
tal characteristics  of  mankind.  This  work  was  entrusted  to  Dr.  R.  S. 
Woodworth,  of  Columbia  University,  who  selected  apparatus  and  super- 


The  Study  of  Mankind  277 

vised  the  measurements  and  researches  in  accordance  with  the  most  ad- 
vanced scientific  methods.  Laboratories  were  installed  in  the  large  rooms 
in  the  western  wing  of  the  Anthropology  building. 

The  anthropometric  examinations  included  measurements  of  stature, 
arm-spread,  girth,  weight,  head  form,  facial  angle,  attitude  of  eyes,  chest 
expansion,  girth  of  body  and  limbs,  relative  lengths  of  limbs  and  body, 
rates  of  pulsation  and  respiration,  with  determinations  of  digital  and 
joint  movements,  form  and  expression  of  features,  etc.  Photography  was 
freely  used  as  an  adjunct  to  the  measurements,  while  molds  and  casts  of 
typical  figures  were  made.  In  addition  to  the  customary  measures,  tests 
of  strength,  endurance,  etc.,  were  introduced,  in  order  that  the  results 
might  indicate— so  far  as  measurements  may— the  relative  physical  value 
of  the  different  races  of  the  peoples. 

In  these  determinations  not  merely  the  primitive  folk  assembled  in 
the  department  were  utilized,  but  representatives  of  foreign  nations  and 
alien  peoples  participating  in  the  exhibits  on  the  Pike,  and  through  the 
co-operation  of  Mr.  J.  E.  Sullivan,  Chief  of  the  Department  of  Physical 
Culture,  corresponding  measurements  were  made  of  typical  athletes  par- 
ticipating in  the  Olympic  Games  and  other  athletic  contests,  in  order 
that  the  comparative  records  should  cover  the  widest  possible  range  in 
physical  development  as  well  as  in  ethnic  affinity. 


THE  SPECIAL  SENSES  UNDER  EXAMINATION. 

The  psychic  examinations  included  measurements  (by  means  of  ap- 
paratus devised  for  the  purpose  during  recent  years)  of  sensitiveness  to 
temperature,  delicacy  of  touch  and  taste,  acuteness  of  vision  and  hear- 
ing, and  other  sense  reactions,  together  with  power  of  co-ordination  as 
expressed  in  rapidity  and  accuracy  of  forming  judgments,  etc.  Special 
attention  was  given  to  color-blindness,  imperfect  hearing,  etc.,  in  order 
to  determine  the  relative  prevalence  of  sense  defects  in  the  different  races 
and  culture  stages,  and  thus  to  ascertain  (if  possible)  in  a  quantitative 
way  the  effects  of  civilized  and  enlightened  life  on  the  physical  system. 

The  systematic  work  in  the  anthropometric  and  psychometric  labora- 
tories attracted  the  attention  of  scientists  and  experts  from  all  parts  of 
the  world,  and  is  expected  to  lead  to  results  of  euch  permanent  value  as 
to  form  one  of  the  lasting  monuments  to  the  world's  greatest  exposition. 


278  The  Studst  of  Mankind 


THE  BOND  OF  "UNION. 

It  was  necessary  for  the  visitor  to  understand  the  meaning  of  Anthro- 
pology and  the  scope  of  the  department  in  order  to  see  the  unity  of  the  ex- 
position. Otherwise  he  would  at  once  say  that  the  great  Filipino  Reser- 
vation, the  medley  of  many  strange  peoples  along  the  Pike  and  other 
exhibits  of  savage  and  semi-savage  life,  were  disunited  fragments— 
simply  unmeaning  shows,  without  educational  value  or  unity  of  purpose. 
When  he  understood  that  these  strange  exhibitions  of  life,  so  foreign  to 
his  own,  were  all  presented  to  furnish  a  living  illustration  of  the  various 
degrees  of  man 's  development  on  this  earth,  he  became  a  thoughtful  spec- 
tator, his  conception  of  the  exhibition  was  broadened  and  his  admiration 
for  its  well-laid  and  thoroughly  executed  plans  was  greatly  increased. 

As  we  have  seen,  also,  not  only  was  the  entire  exposition  theoretically 
embraced  in  the  Anthropological  department— the  Study  of  Mankind— 
but  here  alone  were  records  made  of  such  comparative  examinations  of 
the  different  human  races  as  would  furnish  a  knowledge  of  their  present 
condition,  physical  and  mental,  with  their  advancement  through  the  past. 
It  was  this  department  which  not  only  bound  together  the  Louisiana 
Purchase  Exposition  as  a  whole,  but  gave  to  it  its  broadest,  highest  and 
grandest  significance. 


CHAPTER    XX. 
DEPARTME,NT    OF    SOCIAL    ECONOMY 

Social  Exhibits  First  Scientifically  Developed — Scope  of  the  Department — Installation  of 
Exhibits — Regulation  of  Industry  and  Labor — Charities  and  Correction — Improved 
Charitable  and  Reformatory  Institutions — Rural  and  Municipal  Hygiene — ^A  Modem 
Hygiene  Laboratory  in  Operation — Foreign  Participation — The  Model  Street  at  the 
Fair — Paving  and  Parking — An  Object  Lesson  in  Modern  City  Buildings — American 
League  of  Civil  Improvement. 

THE  systematic  exhibit  of  Social  Economy  shown  at  the  Louisiana 
Purchase  Exposition  was  a  development  of  the  preceding  great 
international  expositions. 

Although  the  subject  was  given  some  attention  in  the  French  exposi- 
tions of  1867  and  1878,  and  while  credit  is  due  M.  Le  Play,  the  noted 
French  economist,  for  his  pioneer  efforts  in  this  direction,  the  subject 
cannot  be  said  to  have  had  an  exposition  status  until  the  Paris  exposition 
of  1889,  when  Social  Economy  was  made  a  separate  group  in  the  official 
classification.  Even  here  it  was  more  a  national  exposition  of  the  social 
and  economic  condition  of  France  than  otherwise.  It  was  practically  the 
result  of  two  years '  investigation  by  French  experts  and  economists  of  the 
condition  of  the  economic  institutions  of  France.  The  exposition  was  of 
permanent  benefit  to  Paris,  as  the  exhibit  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  famous 
Musee  Sociale,  so  munificently  endowed  by  the  Count  de  Chambrun  and 
others. 

SOCIAL  EXHIBITS  FIEST  SCIENTIFICALLY  DEVELOPED. 

In  Chicago,  in  1893,  the  Social  Economy  exhibits  were  arranged  in 
seven  distinct  groups,  but  were  scattered  in  two  or  three  parts  of  the 
grounds.  At  the  Paris  exposition  of  1900,  under  the  presidency  of  M. 
Jules  Siegfried,  a  prominent  member  of  the  French  Senate  and  one  of  the 
foremost  leaders  in  social  and  industrial  questions,  the  exhibits  of  this 
nature  were  developed  on  a  scientific  and  satisfactory  basis.  A  separate 
building  was  devoted  to  the  installation  of  the  exhibits,  and  it  was  one 
of  the  most  attractive  and  instructive  sections  of  the  exposition. 

279 


280  Depaetment  of  Social  Economy 


SCOPE  OF   THE  DEPAETMENT. 


There  is  no  department  in  exposition  classification  which  is  more  ex- 
tensive in  its  scope,  or  under  which  can  be  gathered  so  many  distinct 
exhibits.  In  fact,  its  comprehensiveness  proved  somewhat  embarrassing, 
as  in  addition  to  the  legitimate  and  scientific  topics  embraced  in  its  classi- 
fication, there  was  seeming  warrant  for  many  fads  and  crotchets  which 
had  to  be  excluded. 

The  department  was  conveniently  subdivided  by  its  chief,  Howard  J. 
Eogers,  into  four  general  heads :  First,  Social  Economy  Proper,  includ- 
ing the  subjects  of  the  study  and  investigation  of  social  and  economic 
conditions,  economic  resources  and  organization.  State  regulation  of 
industry  and  labor,  organization  of  industrial  workers,  methods  of  indus- 
trial remuneration,  co-operative  institutions,  provident  institutions,  hous- 
ing of  the  working  classes,  the  liquor  question  and  general  betterment 
movements ;  second.  Charities  and  Correction ;  third,  Hygiene  and  Public 
Health ;  fourth.  Municipal  Improvement. 

Many  of  the  most  vital  questions  which  engross  the  attention  of  busi- 
ness men,  statesmen,  and  philanthropists  are  included  in  the  above  cate- 
gories. The  questions  involved  in  the  study  of  social  economics  are  as  old 
as  the  human  race,  but  it  is  only  within  the  memory  of  the  present  genera- 
tion that  they  have  begun  to  be  considered  in  a  scientific  manner,  and 
with  due  regard  to  the  rights  and  privileges  of  every  branch  of  society. 

The  St.  Louis  exposition  continued  the  precedent  established  at  Paris 
of  including  all  those  questions  which  deal  with  man  in  his  most  general 
relations  to  his  fellowmen  under  one  group,  but  differed  from  the  French 
exposition  by  including  in  the  classification  industrial  as  well  as  social  or 
reform  institutions.  The  purpose  of  this  was  to  permit  any  country  or 
locality  to  present  not  only  its  social  problems  and  etforts  for  the  improve- 
ment of  conditions,  but  also  a  complete  survey  of  its  natural  resources  and 
its  industrial  organization. 

INSTALLATION  OF  EXHIBITS. 

No  separate  building  was  erected  for  the  Social  Economy  department. 
The  exhibits  of  the  department  were  in  the  south  corridor  of  the  Educa- 
tion building.  Two  of  the  subjects  treated  in  the  Social  Economy  depart- 
ment, viz.;  Public  Health  and  Charities  and  Correction,  correlated  very 
closely  with  corresponding  educational  exhibits.    The  Municipal  Improve- 


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Department  op  Social  Economy  289 

ment  exhibit  was  apart  from  the  other  displays  of  the  department,  and 
was  installed  in  the  buildings  along  the  Model  Street.  For  this  reason 
the  exhibit  of  the  economic  resources  and  industrial  organization  (Group 
130)  of  the  States  and  cities  which  exhibited  in  the  Model  Street  were 
removed  from  the  Education  building. 

KEGULATION  OF  INDUSTRY  AND  LABOR. 

The  exhibit  of  the  first  ten  groups  in  the  Social  Economy  section,  which 
concerned  the  regulation  of  industry  and  labor,  including  factory  inspec- 
tion and  mine  inspection,  the  organization  of  employers  and  employed, 
wage  systems,  profit  sharing,  co-operation,  banking,  insurance,  tenement 
house  commissions,^ legal  regulation  of  liquor  traffic,  and  general  better- 
ment movements,  was  necessarily  statistical  and  literary  in  character, 
and  did  not  appeal  particularly  to  the  general  public. 

The  presentation  of  material  exhibited  was  necessarily  by  charts, 
photographs,  printed  matter  and  models,  and  was  made  purely  with  the 
intention  of  appealing  to  scientists  and  the  persons  particularly  inter- 
ested in  the  development  of  the  subject.  Among  the  most  important  ex- 
hibits installed  in  the  section  of  Social  Economy  proper  was  a  wonderful 
compilation  of  general  insurance  statistics  by  insurance  experts;  the 
work  of  the  Tenement  House  commission  of  New  York  City ;  the  historical 
exhibit  of  one  of  the  oldest  banks  in  the  United  States ;  the  excise  regula- 
tions of  some  of  the  more  important  States ;  the  most  improved  methods 
of  protection  of  workers  in  factories  and  mines;  the  social  work  of  the 
Salvation  Army;  the  industrial  and  betterment  work  of  such  firms  as 
the  N.  0.  Nelson  Manufacturing  Company,  the  Heinz  Company,  and  the 
National  Cash  Eegister  Company,  and  a  collective  exhibit  of  the  institu- 
tional work  of  the  Catholic  Church. 

CHARITIES  AND  CORRECTION. 

This  section  was  in  charge  of  a  special  superintendent,  Mr.  A.  E. 
Pope,  and  an  advisory  committee,  appointed  from  the  National  Confer- 
ence of  Charities  and  Correction  consisting  of  Charles  R.  Henderson, 
Chicago;  Jeffrey  E.  Brackett,  Baltimore;  Eobert  W.  de  Forest,  New 
York;  Ernest  J..  Bicknell,  Chicago;  Hastings  H.  Hart,  Chicago;  Mary  E. 
Perry,  St.  Louis. 

The  entire  field  of  public  care  of  the  destitute,  delinquent  and  defect- 
ive was  carefully  subdivided,  and  the  exhibits  were  strictly  classified 


290  Department  of  Social  Economy 

thereunder.  There  were  included  under  this  section  not  only  public  care 
and  relief  of  the  needy  and  destitute,  but  hospitals,  dispensaries,  treat- 
ment of  the  insane,  feeble-minded  and  epileptic,  treatment  and  identifica- 
tion of  criminals,  and  supervisory  and  educational  movements  for  the 
improvement  of  the  various  classes.  Owing  to  the  nature  of  the  display 
and  the  limited  amount  of  space,  exhibits  in  this  section  were  collective. 
For  example,  exhibits  from  the  prisons  of  the  world  were  placed  side  by 
side  instead  of  being  arranged  according  to  locality.  In  a  similar  manner 
exhibits  from  hospitals,  asylums  for  the  insane,  child-saving  institutions, 
etc.,  were  grouped  together.  Visitors  gained  a  more  intelligent  concep- 
tion of  the  exhibit  as  a  whole  by  this  method,  and  were  better  able  to  ap- 
preciate the  merits  of  the  different  systems. 

IMPROVED    CHARITABLE    AND   REFORMATORY    INSTITUTIONS. 

Prominent  among  the  exhibits  installed  in  this  group  were  models  of 
the  most  improved  hospitals  and  institutions  for  the  insane,  feeble-minded 
and  epileptic ;  model  of  the  Colony  for  Epileptics  at  Sonyea ;  model  of  the 
Federal  Prison  in  Mexico,  considered  to  be  the  finest  built  jail  in  the 
world,  and  a  model  jail  in  working  operation.  Under  this  group  was 
also  installed  the  collective  exhibit  made  under  the  auspices  of  the  Inter- 
national Association  of  Chiefs  of  Police.  The  Bureau  of  Identification 
at  Washington,  illustrating  both  the  Bertillon  and  English  finger-print 
systems,  was  transferred  to  the  building,  and  placed  at  the  service  of  the 
detective  force  of  the  exposition  in  keeping  the  grounds  clear  of  crooks 
and  criminals. 

There  was  also  shown  under  the  hospital  class  a  pathological  exhibit, 
collected  from  the  various  hospitals  of  the  country,  and  tracing  the  effect 
of  the  various  diseases  upon  the  body.  This  exhibit  was  made  under  the 
auspices  of  the  American  Medical  Association,  and  was  studied  in  con- 
junction with  the  model  hospital  rooms,  the  apparatus  installed,  for  lack 
of  room,  being  placed  in  the  Liberal  Arts  building. 

RURAL  AND   MUNICIPAL  HYGIENE. 

In  no  subject  during  the  last  three  decades  have  civilized  countries 
been  so  interested,  or  paid  so  much  attention  as  to  rural  and  municipal 
hygiene.  The  possibility  of  preventing  disease  has  been  made  plainly 
apparent,  and  it  has  come  to  be  considered  a  public  duty  to  provide  every 
possible  means  for  such  prevention,  as  well  as  to  provide  for  curative 


Department  of  Social  Economy  291 

processes  after  the  disease  has  become  established.  Eecognizing  the  value 
of  having  at  the  exposition  the  latest  discoveries  and  scientific  methods 
for  protecting  public  health,  more  than  a  year  before  the  opening  date, 
the  subject  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  one  of  the  most  noted  specialists 
in  the  country,  Dr.  J.  N.  Hurty. 

A  MODERN  HYGIENE  LABORATORY  IN  OPERATION. 

In  addition  to  a  general  statistical  and  literary  exhibit  on  the  best 
methods  of  combating  and  preventing  the  spread  of  disease,  there  was 
displayed  a  modern,  completely  equipped,  hygiene  laboratory,  in  work- 
ing operation.  In  it  all  manner  of  actual  chemical  and  bacteriological 
examinations  were  continually  conducted,  such  as  are  required  in  modern 
disease-prevention  work.  Arrangements  were  made  with  the  health  au- 
thorities of  cities,  towns  and  country  within  five  or  six  hours  reach  of  St. 
Louis,  to  send  in  samples  of  blood  for  malaria  and  typhoid  tests,  material 
for  pneumonia  and  tuberculosis  tests,  and  waters  for  chemical  and  bac- 
teriological examination,  also  food  and  drugs  for  chemical  analysis.  In 
addition  to  notification  of  results  to  the  senders  of  specimens,  bulletins 
were  issued  for  the  inspection  of  visitors.  This  laboratory  and  its  practi- 
cal work  were  valuable  in  showing  to  all  officials  and  other  citizens  how 
necessary  such  an  institution  is,  if  preventable  diseases  are  to  be  efficiently 
opposed. 

Foreign  and  home  boards  of  health  were  fully  represented,  and  models 
and  plans  exhibited  of  emergency  hospitals,  sanitary  dwellings  and  build- 
ings, garbage  collection  and  disposal,  ventilation,  lighting  and  heating  of 
schoolhouses,  theaters,  churches,  etc.,  railway  sanitation,  and  disposal  of 
the  dead. 

FOREIGN  PARTICIPATION. 

England,  France,  Germany,  Russia,  Italy  and  Mexico  made  the  prin- 
cipal exhibits  from  among  the  foreign  nations.  The  exhibit  of  France 
had  the  special  oversight  of  M.  Jules  Siegfried,  and  dealt  with  all  the 
groups  of  the  department.  The  exhibit  of  Germany  was  particularly 
thorough  in  public  hygiene  and  in  public  institutions. 

THE  MODEL  STREET  AT  THE  FAIR. 

Perhaps  no  feature  of  the  exposition  was  more  exploited  in  the  public 
press  than  the  Model  Street.  It  has  seemed  to  strike  a  popular  response 
and  to  evince  the  great  interest  which  the  ci«tizens  of  the  country,  both 


292  Department  of  Social  Economy 

individually  and  as  municipal  officers,  are  taking  in  the  subject  of  Munici- 
pal Im]Drovement.  KesjDonding  to  this  general  interest,  the  management 
provided  an  exhibit  which  comprised  all  the  latest  and  best  features  of 
municipal  economy.  The  display  was  practical  to  the  letter,  and  of  the 
greatest  value  to  municipal  councils  and  boards  in  search  of  the  latest 
ideas  for  street  and  park  improvements. 

The  work  of  laying  out  the  Model  Street,  along  which  the  buildings 
were  erected,  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Engineering  Department.  The 
exhibit  had  a  double  character :  First,  it  created  a  practical,  suggestive 
exposition  of  street  equipment  and  city  arrangement,  in  which  every  fea- 
ture was  brought  out  with  reference  to  its  relation  to  the  community,  its 
fitness  and  its  beauty. 

Second,  it  was  a  comparative  exhibit  by  municipalities,  in  which  the 
twenty-five  leading  cities  of  the  United  States  participated  by  the  con- 
tribution of  exhibits  illustrating  some  particular  phase  of  their  municipal 
development.  There  v/as  also  presented  a  commercial  exhibit,  where  in- 
dividual exhibitors  presented  their  products,  in  competition  for  awards, 
in  the  usual  way.    - 

The  street  was  1,200  feet  long,  and  immediately  in  front  of  the  main 
(Lindell)  entrance  to  the  exposition.  It  was  approximately  four  city 
blocks  in  length,  with  a  public  square  in  the  center,  and  buildings  along 
both  sides  of  the  street.  The  roadway  in  the  center  was  42  feet  wide, 
with  grass  lawns  on  either  side  between  the  roadway  and  the  sidewalks. 

PAVING  AND  PARKING. 

The  paving,  the  parking,  and  the  entire  equipment  of  this  street  were 
worked  out  according  to  the  best  approved  methods,  no  matter  from  what 
part  of  the  world  obtained,  the  object  being  to  illustrate  the  highest  ideals 
that  have  been  realized  along  particular  lines  by  the  most  advanced  cities 
in  the  world.  For  example,  the  paving  represented  the  modern,  improved 
material  used  in  good  street  making ;  one  section  was  made  of  asphalt,  an- 
other of  vitrified  brick,  another  of  wooden  blocks,  treated  by  the  latest 
preserving  processes,  etc.    Several  methods  of  curbing  were  used. 

Close  to  either  end  of  the  street  were  two  restaurants,  each  occupying 
a  space  of  128x112  feet.  The  hospital,  day  nursery,  model  library  build- 
ing, model  school  erected  by  the  Missouri  Commission,  municipal  museum 
erected  by  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis,  casino  by  Kansas  City,  park  shelter 
by  Boston,  similar  buildings  by  Buffalo  and  San  Francisco,  and  the 


Depaetment  of  Social  Economy  29S 

model  railroad  station  presented  by  the  city  of  Atlanta,  Ga.,  all  held  places 
on  the  Model  thoroughfare.  The  day  nursery  cost  $20,000  and  was  under 
the  direction  of  the  Board  of  Lady  Managers. 

AN"  OBJECT  LESSON   IN   MODERN   CITY  BTJILDINGS. 

The  purpose  of  the  Municipal  Improvement  Exhibit  was  to  furnish 
an  object  lesson  in  modem  city  building,  and  to  impress  the  visitor  with 
an  attractive  civic  picture.  The  visitor  entering  at  the  main  gates,  or 
descending  from  the  intramural  railway,  passed  through  the  railway 
station,  which  was  the  official  entrance  to  the  street.  This  depot,  built 
by  the  city  of  Atlanta,  Ga.,  was  a  moditication  of  the  new  $1,000,000  pas- 
senger station  of  the  Southeastern  metropolis.  While  neither  a  miniature 
nor  an  exact  reproduction  of  the  Atlanta  depot,  the  building  reproduced 
the  most  striking  features  of  the  original,  and  was  strongly  reminiscent 
of  it  in  composition  and  detail. 

Passing  through  the  station,  the  visitor  encountered  a  spacious  square, 
large  enough  to  provide  for  the  traffic  which  always  accumulates  at  such 
a  point,  while  beyond  was  the  town  hall,  the  central  and  most  monu- 
mental building  in  the  composition.  Before  the  town  hall  rose  the  Civic 
Pride  monument,  designed  by  J.  Massey  Rhind,  the  New  York  sculptor, 
since  engaged  upon  a  fountain  for  the  German  Emperor  and  a  statue  for 
Andrew  Carnegie.  The  monument  facing  a  fountain  and  basin  of  water 
filled  with  aquatic  plants,  represented  order  out  of  chaos,  and  the  civic 
virtues. 

From  the  square  the  main  street  of  the  exhibit  extended  off  to  the 
right  and  left,  following  a  gentle  curve  to  conform  with  the  contour  of 
the  exposition  buildings.  All  buildings  were  located  along  this  thor- 
oughfare. An  exhaustive  exhibit  of  street  fixtures,  lamp  posts,  drinking 
fountains,  kiosks,  fire  plugs,  etc.,  and  a  septic  tank  in  operation  were 
shown  along  the  street,  and  in  the  park  adjoining  the  town  hall  many 
exhibits  from  European  cities  were  installed.  There  were  also  an  exhibi- 
tion of  tree  planting,  with  special  reference  to  providing  a  sufficiency  of 
water  and  air  about  the  roots.  This  was  especially  interesting  in  view 
of  the  fact  that  great  difficulties  are  met  with  in  every  city  in  the  effort 
to  induce  shade  trees  to  grow  upon  narrow  road  lawns. 

In  the  case  of  cities  that  did  not  put  up  buildings,  space  for  exhibits 
was  provided  in  the  Arcade  building,  the  arrangement  of  which  was  such 
that  a  city  occupied  one  or  more  sections  according  to  the  extent  of  the 


294  Department  of  Social  Economy 

exhibit  that  was  made.    The  foreign  indoor  exhibits  were  housed  in  the 
town  hall. 

AMEEICAN  LEAGUE  OF  CIVIC  IMPROVEMENT. 

The  original  advocate  of  a  municipal  exhibit  at  the  exposition,  and 
its  strong  supporter  in  all  stages  of  development,  was  the  American 
League  for  Civic  Improvement,  whose  headquarters  are  in  Chicago. 

The  architectural  details  of  the  section  were  under  the  direction  of 
Mr.  Albert  Kelsey,  of  Philadelphia,  Superintendent  of  the  Municipal 
Improvement  section.  Mr.  Kelsey  drew  the  plans  for  many  of  the  build- 
ings erected  on  the  Street.  His  plan,  so  ably  conceived  and  executed,  was 
to  make  each  of  the  diverse  buildings  conform  to  a  civic  scheme,  and  at 
the  same  time  not  to  detract  from  their  individuality ;  to  assemble  as  many 
diverse  units  of  city-making  as  possible,  and  also  to  form  a  civic  center 
where  the  best  of  the  object  lessons  were  to  be  harmoniously  exhibited 
in  their  relation  to  architectural  surroundings. 

This  is  the  first  time  in  the  history  of  international  expositions  that 
the  special  feature,  in  a  separate  space,  of  outdoor  municipal  exhibits  was 
undertaken.  The  rapid  advance  and  development  of  American  cities 
within  the  past  decade,  and  the  great  interest  which  is  now  being  mani- 
fested by  municipalities  and  the  general  public  in  the  subject  of  city 
beautifying,  encouraged  the  exposition  authorities  to  believe  that  an  ob- 
ject lesson,  suggestive  and  practical,  would  meet  a  popular  demand  in 
this  country,  and  be  of  great  practical  interest ;  and  this  belief  was  fully 
sustained  by  the  results.  The  problems  dealt  with  were  those  certain  to 
exist  in  the  home  town  of  every  visitor,  and  the  exhibits  suggested  what 
is  most  needful  in  the  improvement  of  municipalities,  whether  large  or 
small. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 
FILIPINOS    AT    THE    FAIR 

Old  Manila  and  Manila  Architecture — The  Red  Man  and  the  Brown  Man  Contrasted — 
Colony  of  One  Thousand  Filipinos — $1,000,000  Required  for  the  Exhibit — ^Wild  Igor- 
rotes  on  the  Filipino  Reservation — The  Igorrote  as  Head-Hunter  and  Dog-Eater — 
Physical  Development  and  Fever  Treatment — Divided  Skirt  an  Igorrote  Invention- 
Gets  "Crazy  Mad" — First  Conquered  by  Americans — Death  Followed  by  House 
Wrecking — Debit  and  Credit  Account  of  Heads — Said  to  be  Ethiopian  Immigrants — 
The  Primer  Class  of  Igorrotes — The  Dog  to  the  Rescue — Straw  Men  as  Devil  Chasers — 
Disease  Demon  Driven  Away  by  Dog  Offering — The  Dog  Dance  Before  the  Feast 
— Sliced  Bananas  and  Stewed  Dog. 

OK  the  first  time  since  the  Philippine  archipelago  passed  into  the 
possession  of  the  United  States  an  opportunity  was  afforded  the 
American  public  to  study  the  strange  people  of  the  distant  islands,  their 
habits,  customs  and  products  at  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  at  St. 
Louis.  It  may  even  be  said  that  many  found  their  first  opportunity  there 
to  get  a  comprehensive  idea  of  the  exact  location,  extent  and  character 
of  the  great  island  group.  This  information  was  afforded  through  study 
of  an  enormous  circular  map  in  plaster  relief  built  upon  the  surface  of 
the  ground  and  encircled  by  a  raised  promenade  from  which  a  bird's-eye 
view  of  that  portion  of  the  Pacific  could  be  enjoyed. 

In  view  of  the  depth  of  interest  attaching  to  this  new  American  pos- 
session it  was  not  remarkable  that  all  who  visited  the  fair  at  once  headed 
for  the  Philippine  section.    All  were  well  repaid  for  their  visit. 

OLD  MANILA  AND  MANILA  AKCHITECTURE. 

The  little-known,  non-Christian  tribes  were  the  magnets  which  drew 
them  more  than  anything  else.  The  nipa  buildings  and  the  specimens  of 
Manila  architecture  in  the  central  group  of  structures  were  viewed  with 
interest,  but  the  crowds  lingered  longest  about  the  Cuartel  and  the  bamboo 
stockades  inclosing  the  native  villages. 

Most  of  the  visitors  approached  the  Philippines  from  the  main  expo- 
sition.   They  crossed  the  B,ridge  of  Spain,  a  reproduction  of  the  old  struc- 

295 


296  Filipinos  at  the  Fair 

ture  of  many  spans  over  tlie  Pasig  river  at  Manila,  which  spanned  Arrow- 
head lake  at  its  widest  point. 

The  Walled  City  confronted  them  frowningly  at  the  further  side,  a 
reproduction  of  Old  Manila,  whose  encircling  walls  were  built  three  hun- 
dred years  ago.    Behind  the  great  gates  was  displayed  a  war  exhibit. 

THE  RED  MAN  AND  THE  BROWN  MAN  CONTRASTED. 

The  red  man  of  America  and  the  brown  man  of  Oceanica,  both  races 
the  wards  of  Uncle  Sam,  both  including  many  tribes,  were  almost  side  by 
side,  each  on  a  forty-acre  tract.  One  pathetic  difference  between  the  red 
man  and  the  brown  was  brought  out  at  this  twin  exhibition,  and  that  is 
the  Indian  is  of  a  disappearing  race,  while  the  Filipino  appears  to  be  just 
on  the  eve  of  a  substantial  and  lasting  development. 

Each  of  these  vast  exhibits — large  enough  to  form  a  separate  exposi- 
tion—was made  officially.  The  United  States  government  appropriated 
money  for  the  Indian  display  and  was  in  direct  charge  thereof.  The 
Filipino  showing  was  made  by  the  Insular  Government  of  the  Philippine 
Islands.  Each  was  a  part  of  the  general  exposition  and  all  visitors  to  the 
world's  fair  were  admitted  free  to  these  reservations. 

COLONY  OF  ONE  THOUSAND  FILIPINOS. 

The  Filipino  tract  contained  more  than  a  score  of  large  buildings  and 
a  number  of  small  ones,  the  latter  representing  the  types  of  houses  in 
which  the  natives  live.  These  houses  were  built  by  Filipinos,  of  native 
materials,  bamboo,  nipa  and  other  island  products.  The  larger  buildings 
included  structures  with  names  like  those  of  the  exhibit  palaces  in  the 
main  exposition— Agriculture,  Education,  Ethnology,  etc.  More  than 
cne  thousand  natives  of  the  islands  lived  in  this  Filipino  reservation.  The 
children  attended  school  in  a  schoolhouse  built  for  them.  The  elders  made 
mats  and  hats,  conducted  shops  and  carried  on  their  ordinary  lines  of 
business. 

"Wild  tribesmen  lived  in  tree-built  houses  and  in  huts  built  on  stilts 
in  the  lake.  Several  hundred  soldiers  from  native  regiments  were  quar- 
tered in  barracks  within  the  walled  city  of  Manila,  rebuilt  in  St.  Louis,  to 
which  three  bridges  led,  spanning  the  Laguna  de  Bay  as  at  home. 

Eed  and  brown,  these  two  "forties"  were  of  surpassing  interest  to 
those  who  saw  things  merely  for  curiosity  and  amusement  as  well  as  to 
those  who  attended  the  fair  to  learn. 


Filipinos  at  the  Fair  297 

$1,000,000'  eequiked  for  the  exhibit. 

Some  idea  of  the  extent  of  the  Philippine  exhibit  may  be  gathered 
from  the  following  excerpt  from  an  official  bulletin  by  the  government 
Bureau  of  Insular  Affairs,  showing  that  about  $1,000,000  was  necessary 
to  defray  the  expense  of  this  one  feature  before  the  opening  of  the  fair. 

"It  was  originally  assumed  that  the  cost  of  collecting  exhibits,  as- 
sembling in  Manila  and  shipment  to  the  United  States  would  be  so  great 
that  it  would  require  an  appropriation  of  $500,000  from  Philippine  reve- 
nues. An  agreement  was  made  with  the  exposition  company  that  when 
such  amount  was  appropriated  by  the  Philippine  Commission  the  world 's 
fair  management  would  allot  $200,000  from  their  funds  to  prepare  the 
grounds  and  buildings  for  the  reception  of  these  exhibits  coming  from 
Manila. 

"It  was  hoped  that  the  latter  amount  would  be  adequate  for  this  pur- 
pose. However,  owing  to  the  unanticipated  prices  and  demands  of  labor, 
as  well  as  the  cost  of  material  and  the  severe  winter  in  St.  Louis,  which 
has  retarded  the  work,  this  cost  will-  be  exceeded  in  the  amount  of  $200,- 
000.  During  the  first  part  of  this  month  the  Philippine  Commission  appro- 
priated this  additional  amount." 

WILD  IGOEROTES  OF  THE  FILIPINO  RESERVATION. 

The  United  States  has  no  other  wards  so  little  known  as  the  wild 
Igorrotes,  some  of  whom  were  shown  at  the  Filipino  Keservation. 

Of  these  warlike  little  primitives  of  the  mountains  and  forests  a  great 
deal  has  been  heard  since  American  interest  was  directed  to  the  Philip- 
pines, but  not  much  was  certainly  known  until  the  Philippines  Commis- 
sion m^ade  its  report  to  the  President  of  the  United  States. 

It  has  been  said  that  the  Igorrotes  are  cannibals  and  head-hunters, 
and  that  they  are  to  the  Philippines  today  what  the  wild  Kiowas  of  Kan- 
sas and  Nebraska  were  to  the  United  States  sixty  years  ago— a  warlike, 
savage  people  preying  upon  whomsoever  happened  their  way. 

The  investigation  made  by  the  Philippines  Commission  enabled  us  to 
know  that  the  Igorrote,  while  black  indeed,  is  not  so  black  as  he  has  been 
painted.  He  has  been  proven  innocent  of  the  charge  of  cannibalism. 
Likewise  has  he  been  found  guiltless  of  that  free-heartedness  and  nomadic 
life  which  m.ade  the  American  plains  Indian  the  terror  to  the  West  in 
early  days. 


298  Filipinos  at  the  Fair 

the  igorkote  as  head-hunter  and  dog-eater. 

The  Igorrote  stands  indicted  upon  but  one  grave  count— liis  head- 
hunting. But  even  this  offense  has  the  extenuation  of  being  discriminate. 
The  Igorrote  only  takes  the  heads  of  his  enemies. 

Upon  his  arrival  at  St.  Louis,  the  Igorrote  attracted  more  attention 
than  ail  the  other  primitive  people  at  the  fair.  Not  because  of  his  head- 
hunting propensity  was  he  enabled  to  achieve  this  foreign  fame,  but  be- 
cause he  insisted  upon  eating  dogs. 

So,  head-hunter  and  dog-eater  that  he  is,  the  Igorrote  is  not  the  least 
interesting  of  those  races  which  came  to  the  big  fair  to  resume  after  long 
lapse  of  years  the  linguistic  chorus  of  Babel. 

THE   IGORROTES   IN   BRIEF. 

The  Igorrotes  may  be  briefly  summed  up  and  analysed  as  follows : 

They  are  black  and  all  smoke  pipes. 

They  are  very  warlike  mountaineers  and  hunt  with  blow  guns.  They 
eat  with  their  fingers.  They  have  curly,  kinky  hair,  and  are  afraid  of 
thunder.  They  dislike  to  be  questioned.  Vanity  is  their  dominant  vice. 
They  regard  Americans  as  giants,  although  they  are  the  largest  of  the 
Filipinos.    Cock  fighting  is  their  chief  amusement. 

The  mountains  of  Northern  Luzon  are  full  of  them.  They  cultivate 
sugar  cane,  rice  and  sweet  potatoes.  They  are  called  a  fine-looking  race 
for  the  tropics.  The  women  wear  wooden  hair  combs,  made  of  bamboo. 
They  build  quaint  little  huts  in  the  coffee  thickets.  The  men  dance  a 
great  deal,  but  the  women  never  do.  They  have  flat  noses,  thick  lips  and 
high  cheek  bones.  The  American  soldiers  early  called  them  ^'the  black 
hornets. ' ' 

While  ordinarily  very  well  built,  they  are  not  a  graceful  people.  The 
women  are  fond  of  beads  and  wear  great  quantities  of  them.  They  use 
the  bow  and  arrow,  and  it  is  their  principal  weapon  in  warfare.  They 
love  music,  but  they  have  only  the  simplest  of  reed  instruments.  They 
wear  their  hair  long  and  the  men  seldom  have  any  hair  on  the  face.  They 
are  eager  gamblers,  and  any  sort  of  a  game  of  chance  appeals  to  them. 

Their  huts  are  built  bee-hive  fashion,  and  they  creep  into  them  on  all 
fours.  The  women  are  said  to  be  very  domestic,  even  though  they  do  lead 
a  gypsy-like  life.  They  are  fatalists,  and  are  not  much  given  to  reasoning. 
They  are  more  remote  from  civilization  than  any  of  the  other  natives  of 
the  Philippines. 


Filipinos  at  the  Fair  299 


MARITAL  PARTICULARS. 

Divorce  is  quite  common  among  tliem.  When  a  wife  and  husband  sep- 
arate they  return  the  dowry.  Their  bridal  couples  spend  their  honeymoon 
in  the  mountain  wilds  before  establishing  a  home.  They  sleep  under  the 
trees  until  five  suns  have  passed,  in  order  that  they  may  relish  the  com- 
forts of  their  home  when  they  move  into  it.  There  is  no  marriage  cere- 
mony among  the  wild  Igorrotes  beyond  the  exchange  of  a  handful  of  rice 
between  bride  and  groom. 

They  chew  betel  nut  much  as  Americans  chew  tobacco.  In  their  native 
land  they  go  almost  naked,  wearing  only  a  clout.  They  are  fond  of 
bathing  and  swimming,  but  are  not  especially  clean.  They  have  little  con- 
fidence in  white  people,  and  the  Spaniards  could  never  gain  their  confi- 
dence. 

PHYSICAL  DEVELOPMENT  AND  FEVER  TREATMENT. 

The  women  are  well  developed,  being  without  that  sickly  look  so 
common  among  Filipino  women.  They  treat  fever  by  walking  into  cold 
water  and  standing  there,  sometimes  with  the  water  up  to  the  neck.  Pas- 
sion is  seldom  expressed  in  their  features,  and  you  cannot  tell  that  an 
Igorrote  is  angry  by  looking  at  him. 

The  women  carry  water  and  wood  and  almost  all  other  burdens  upon 
their  heads.  They  are  expert  at  balancing  such  burdens.  They  are  fond 
of  festivals,  and  oftentimes  continue  them  through  days  and  nights,  the 
chief  features  being  fire  and  noise. 

Paternal  love  is  one  of  their  ruling  sentiments,  and  both  the  father 
and  mother  exercise  a  tender  care  over  the  little  ones. 

The  Igorrote  men  are  almost  all  hunters  in  their  native  mountains. 
The  women  do  the  housework  and  cultivate  the  little  gardens. 

They  are  elaborate  tattooers,  and  Igorrote  tattooing  is  only  surpassed 
in  design  and  extent  by  that  of  the  natives  of  New  Zealand. 

They  wander  from  place  to  place  in  the  forests  and  mountains,  and 
among  the  wild  Igorrotes  there  are  no  towns  or  regularly-located  villages. 

DIVIDED  SKIRT  AN  IGORROTE  INVENTION. 

The  divided  skirt  is  an  original  invention  with  the  Igorrote  women, 
who  frequently  wear  them  when  they  come  down  from  the  mountains  into 
the  towns. 


300  Filipinos  at  the  Fair 

They  are  not  as  black  as  the  Negroes  of  the  African  interior,  but  they 
are  much  darker  than  any  of  the  other  Filipinos. 

They  name  their  children  for  the  place  in  which  they  are  born,  or  for 
some  bird  or  snake,  or  whatever  is  in  mind  at  the  time. 

The  Igorrotes  never  cut  their  hair  behind,  or,  that  is,  they  never  do  it 
when  they  are  at  home.  They  permit  it  to  grow  as  long  as  it  will,  and  it 
curls  and  kinks  into  quite  a  hard,  bushy  mass. 

They  take  good  care  of  their  sick,  but  have  no  regular  medicines,  and 
sometimes  make  up  mixtures  which  probably  kill  the  patient  quicker  than 
the  germs  of  disease  could  hope  to  dispatch  him. 

Indolence  is  the  curse  of  the  race.  The  men  do  little  else  than  follow 
the  chase,  and  they  do  not  do  this  when  there  is  anything  to  eat  in  the 
house.    Lying  around  in  the  shade  is  their  chief  pastime. 

GETS   "CEAZY   MAD",   AND   FIEST   CONQUERED   BY  AMERICANS. 

An  Igorrote  has  little  capacity  for  assimilating  civilization,  and  he  is 
one  of  the  natives  set  down  by  the  Philippines  Commission  as  being  not 
only  incapable  of  self-government,  but  needing  a  firm  hand  to  rule  him. 

The  Igorrote  has  a  violent  temper.  When  he  is  aroused,  he  gets  what 
Americans  would  call  ' '  crazy  mad. ' '  At  such  times  he  will  commit  atro- 
cious crimes,  and  they  have  been  known  to  turn  upon  their  own  households 
with  great  fury. 

Some  of  the  Igorrotes  are  tree-dwellers,  a  form  of  habitat  made  neces- 
sary by  the  frequent  raids  of  their  enemies.  The  tree-dweller  met  this 
exigency  just  as  the  American  cliff-dweller  did— by  building  his  house 
where  it  is  inaccessible. 

The  United  States  troops  were  the  first  to  conquer  the  Igorrotes.  The 
Spaniards  sent  many  expeditions  against  them,  but  they  were  never  sub- 
jugated until  the  American  followed  them  into  the  brush  and  whipped 
them  into  submission. 

Family  feuds  are  common  among  them.  Oftentimes  these  feuds  result 
in  many  deaths,  for  the  Igorrote  is  revengeful  and  he  does  not  hesitate  to 
lay  in  the  bushes  with  his  bolo  and  do  unto  others  such  evil  as  they  have 
done  unto  him  and  his. 

The  Igorrotes  are  polygamists,  but  no  man  has  more  than  one  real 
wife.  The  others  are  his  servants,  and  neither  they  nor  their  children 
have  any  of  the  privileges  extended  to  that  inner  circle  of  the  household, 
whose  center  is  the  recognized  wife. 


Filipinos  at  the  Fate  301 

death  folloyv^ed  by  house-wrecking. 

The  death  of  an  Igorrote  is  followed  by  a  great  clamor  in  the  house. 
All  the  members  of  the  family  set  up  a  great  shrieking  and  crying,  and 
oftentimes  the  men  take  out  their  bolos  and  hack  right  and  left  at  the 
furniture  and  the  walls  of  the  house. 

An  Igorrote  is  considered  in  disrepute  if  it  is  known  that  his  enemies 
have  taken  more  of  the  heads  of  his  people  or  family  than  he  has  taken  in 
return.  They  will  tolerate  a  '^tie  score,"  as  we  would  call  it  in  America, 
but  it  is  a  disgrace  to  be  a  head  or  so  behind. 

The  Igorrotes  are  for  the  most  part  pagans,  and  it  is  only  a  small 
element  of  them  that  have  embraced  Christianity  through  the  Catholic 
Church.  It  is  said  that  the  first  members  of  a  Filipino  tribe  baptized  were 
Igorrotes  who  went  to  an  exposition  at  Madrid  in  1887. 

There  is  no  lovelier  wilderness  than  that  in  which  the  Igorrotes  have 
their  homes  in  the  mountains  of  Northern  Luzon.  Like  the  dream  houses 
of  fairies  are  their  queer  little  huts,  in  the  close  embrace  of  the  coffee 
trees  and  that  great  luxuriance  of  vegetation  which  is  found  in  those  tropi- 
cal isles. 

DEBIT  AND  CREDIT  ACCOUNT  OF  HEADS. 

Head-hunting  is  an  old  custom  with  the  Igorrotes,  as  it  is  with  others 
of  the  black  races  of  the  Solomon  Islands,  Borneo  and  other  isles  of 
Oceanica.  The  Igorrotes  keep  a  regular  debit  and  credit  account  of  heads, 
and  valor  is  measured  by  the  number  of  these  possessed  by  each  warrior 
of  the  tribe. 

They  keep  the  heads  of  their  enemies  displayed  before  their  huts,  in 
order  that  none  be  either  under  or  over-estimated  as  a  warrior.  If  an 
Igorrote  is  too  unskillful  in  battle  or  too  timid  to  fare  forth  and  take  the 
heads  of  his  enemies,  he  is  despised  by  his  fellows  and  he  is  treated  with 
contempt. 

HEADS  MEASURE  VALOR. 

The  chiefs  are  selected  according  to  their  fitness  to  lead,  just  as  chiefs 
were  chosen  by  the  American  Indians.  As  the  Indians  followed  that  one 
of  their  number  who  displayed  at  his  tepee  the  greatest  number  of  his 
enemies'  scalps,  so  the  Igorrotes  follow  him  whose  hut  is  decorated  with 
the  greatest  number  of  the  heads  of  his  foes. 

Young  men  seeking  brides  amor!^'  the  I<^orrotes  must  go  to  the  homes 


302  Filipinos  at  the  Fair 

of  tlie  girls  and  reside  there  for  a  certain  time,  in  order  that  the  girl's 
people  may  determine  by  close  association  whether  the  proposed  alliance 
is  desirable.  During  this  period  the  youth  works  for  the  girl's  father 
without  pay. 

A  young  Igorrote  warrior  cannot  hope  to  have  a  bride  until  he  has 
proven  his  valor  by  taking  the  heads  of  some  of  his  enemies.  Sometimes 
a  girl 's  father  will  give  his  daughter  to  a  suitor  who  can  show  but  a  single 
enemy 's  head,  but  this  is  not  often  the  case,  and  if  it  is  done  the  people  of 
the  tribe  know  by  that  sign  that  the  father  himself  is  not  much  of  a  head 
harvester  and  has  no  wish  to  encourage  that  particular  proof  of  personal 
valor. 

Igorrote  funerals  are  oftentimes  very  elaborate.  The  relatives  and 
friends  of  the  deceased  all  gather  upon  a  certain  day,  and  each  brings  a 
piece  of  game  or  some  other  food.  This  food  is  placed  inside  a  big  canoe- 
like piece  of  bark  taken  from  a  tree,  and  is  sewed  within  it.  The  body 
of  the  dead  is  similarly  sewed  in  another  piece  of  bark,  and  these  are 
buried  together,  in  order  that  the  journey  into  death  may  not  be  accom- 
panied by  hunger. 

IGOEROTES  AND  INDIANS  AS  DOG-EATEKS. 

The  Igorrotes  have  always  been  dog-eaters,  and  they  consider  it  not  at 
all  strange  that  they  should  eat  such  food.  In  fact,  they  are  but  one  of 
many  primitive  people  who  relish  the  dog  at  table.  The  American  In- 
dians were  in  many  instances  dog-eaters.  When  Father  Jacques  Mar- 
quette descended  the  Mississippi  river  in  1673  the  Indian  chiefs  consid- 
ered that  they  were  showing  him  the  highest  honor  within  their  power 
when  they  set  before  him  and  his  men  a  nicely-baked  dog. 

Because  they  eat  dog  flesh  the  Igorrotes  aroused  the  Woman's  Hu- 
mane Society  to  protest,  but  they  insist  on  receiving  their  favorite  food 
while  at  the  fair.  Stray  canines  in  the  vicinity  of  their  camp  were  always 
in  danger  of  sudden  death. 

AN  IGORROTE-CHINESE  TRIBE. 

The  Igorrotes  are  regarded  as  being,  for  the  most  part,  a  pure-blooded 
negro  race,  though  there  are  tribes  of  them  which  have  intermarried  with 
less  pronounced  races  and  have  in  this  way  lost  much  of  their  racial  dis- 
tinctiveness. This  is  particularly  true  of  a  tribe  of  them  which  long  ago 
affiliated  with  a  band  of  Chinese  pirates  and  who  have  now  become  Igor- 


Filipinos  at  the  Fair  303 

rote-Chinese.  They  were  for  a  long  time  more  dreaded  even  than  the 
full-blooded  Igorrotes,  for,  retaining  the  fearfulness  and  fighting  qualities 
of  the  Igorrote,  they  acquired  by  the  alliance  the  craftiness  of  the  Mon- 
golian. 

said  to  be  ETHIOPIAN  IMMIGRANTS. 

The  Igorrotes  are  an  unthinking  people,  and  are  without  any  of  those 
native  wits  and  mental  strengths  which  enable  some  primitive  people 
to  know  considerable  of  their  ancestors,  even  though  the  race  is  without 
historians  or  anything  better  than  traditions.  Consequently,  the  Igor- 
rotes  have  no  idea  when  their  forefathers  landed  upon  the  Philippines, 
or  whence  or  why  they  came.  The  prevalent  story  of  their  original  ap- 
pearance there  is  that  in  the  year  1529  B.  C,  the  tyrannical  reign  of  the 
fierce  Cambises  caused  a  great  exodus  out  of  Ethiopia,  and  that  a  portion 
of  these  African  blacks  put  to  sea  and  landed  upon  the  Philippines.  This 
same  story  is  told  of  the  coming  of  the  Negritos,  another  tribe  on  the 
islands.  The  Igorrotes  know  nothing  at  all  of  it,  and  have  not  even  a  cur- 
rent legend  to  cover  their  coming. 

MORE  EXCITING  THAN   A  DOG-FEAST. 

Miss  Lenora  P.  Vandaveer  of  3715  North  Ninth  Street,  St.  Louis, 
undertook  to  teach  the  young  Igorrote  idea  how  to  shoot. 

She  succeeded  so  well  at  the  very  outset  that  she  soon  had  half  a  hun- 
dred of  the  little  savages  able  to  "  see  a  cat ' '  in  English  and  familiar  with 
what  cow,  and  horse,  and  apple,  and  foot,  and  fan,  and  particularly  dog, 
sound  like  in  the  language  of  their  assimilators. 

Miss  Vandaveer  was  the  stenographer  of  Dr.  T.  K.  Hunt^  in  charge  of 
the  Igorrotes.  Finding  that  her  duties  in  that  capacity  did  not  occupy  all 
of  her  time,  she  set  about  organizing  this  class  in  the  English  language. 
She  had  wanted  to  teach  the  little  brown  people  ever  since  their  assim- 
ilation and  would  have  gone  to  the  islands  where  there  was  a  call  for 
school  teachers  if  her  father  would  have  permitted  her.  Her  assignment 
to  duties  at  the  Cuertel  offered  just  the  opportunity  she  wanted. 

When  it  became  known  that  all  Igorrotes  and  members  of  the  other 
tribes  who  wished  could  join  the  first  Filipino  ABC  class  in  America, 
there  was  a  rush  of  Igorrotes,  big  and  little.  Eesponse  to  an  announce- 
ment of  a  dog-feast  could  not  have  been  with  greater  alacrity. 


304  FiLTPiisros  at  the  Fa.ir 


THE  PEIMER  CLASS  OP  IGOEEOTES. 


Of  tlie  fifty  who  came,  clamoring  to  be  shown,  only  one  or  two  could 
speak  a  few  words  of  English.  In  that  respect  the  prospect  was  about 
as  unpromising  as  possible,  but  the  proposition  before  Miss  Vandaveer 
was  simple  in  that  she  had  only  to  organize  one  class.  Old  and  young 
were  on  the  same  plane  and  they  were  all  organized  in  a  primer  class. 

For  the  first  lesson  Miss  Vandaveer  printed  the  letters  of  the  alphabet 
on  pieces  of  cardboard.  The  pupils  crowded  eagerly  around  her,  and 
as  she  pointed  at  the  characters  and  pronounced  them,  the  students  re- 
peated them  after  her  with  considerable  exactness. 

THE   DOG  TO    THE  EESCUE. 

Then  she  spelled  out  "I  s-e-e  a  c-a-t."  She  had  the  scholars  spell 
the  words  after  her  and  then  speak  the  sentence. 

The  next  thing  was  to  clinch  the  thing  by  making  the  meaning  clear. 
That  was  ^here  she  struck  a  stump.  There  wasn  't  a  cat  about  the  place. 
She  made  eloquent  attempts  to  convey  to  them  what  c-a-t,  cat,  meant, 
but  they  only  shook  their  heads  and  said  something  which  was  apparently 
the  equivalent  of  '^come  again." 

Then  the  teacher  had  an  inspiration.  She  switched  to  dog.  The  sen- 
tence was  changed  to  "  I  see  a  dog. '  ^  They  repeated  it  after  her  and  she 
pointed  at  a  bow-wow  tied  to  a  banister.  It  was  then  that  the  scholars 
saw  a  great  light.  They  were  so  delighted  with  the  sound  of  the  new  name 
for  their  favorite  dish,  that  they  chattered  about  it  for  five  minutes. 

Miss  Vandaveer  then  caused  them  to  ''see"  various  other  things  in 
English,  things  which  could  be  pointed  to  and  identified  with  the  sounds. 

To  conclude  the  lesson  she  gave  each  of  them  cardboards  on  which 
the  alphabet  was  printed  and  told  them  to  practice  on  the  letters  until 
the  next  morning.  Their  enthusiasm  was  so  great  that  throughout  the 
day  every  person  visiting  the  Quartet,  who  wore  United  States  clothing 
and  appeared  to  know  the  alphabet,  was  impressed  into  service  and  pre- 
vailed upon  to  drill  a  savage  in  the  rudiments  of  the  language. 

Miss  Vandaveer  was  delighted  with  her  scholars.  ' '  They  are  keen  to 
learn, ' '  she  declared. 

BUILDING    THEIE   GEASS-EOOPED    HUTS. 

It  was  an  interesting  sight  to  witness  the  savage  islanders  constructing 
their  huts  upon  their  arrival  at  the  fair.    The  Igorrote  band  worked  faith- 


A  NATIVE  OF  THE  PHILIPPINES  AT  THE  FAIR— This  is  the  style  of  dress  of 
the  Igorrote  people  of  our  new  possessions.  They  were  brought  to  the  fair  by  the  United 
States  Government  and  are  shown  in  their  native  costume.  The  City  of  St.  Louis  provided 
these  people  with  twenty  dogs  a  day  as  their  ration  of  meat. 


A  FILIPINO  BELLE — This  young  woman  represents  the  higher  type  of  islanders  who 
have  recently  come  under  the  American  flag.  She  is  shown  standing  before  the  assembly 
hall  in  the  Philippine  section.  Personal  charm  and  intelligence  are  possessed  by  Filipinos 
of  this  type. 


MOEO  CHIEF  POSING  AT  THE  FAIR— Eaised  aloft  by  this  Moro  warrior  is  the 
favorite  native  weapon,  a  sword  with  a  narrow  blade  shaped  like  a  tongue  of  flame.  A 
thrust  from  this  odd  weapon,  with  its  keen  double  edges,  inflicts  a  terrible  wound  that 
usually  closes  when  the  blade  is  withdrawn. 


DOGS  TO  FEED  THE  IGOEROTES — As  this  old  man  approached  the  Philippine  sec- 
tion to  sell  his  two  pets  to  the  Igorrotes  for  food,  he  was  made  a  victim  of. the  "snap  shot." 
He  was  only  one  of  many  who  parted  with  old  canine  friends  in  exchange  for  money,  sadly 
needed  and  gladly  paid  by  the  hungry  Islanders. 


BUSY  FILIPINO  CAEPENTEKS — One  of  the  most  interesting  sights  of  the  coji- 
struction  period  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  was  afforded  by  the  Filipino  work- 
men. Quick,  alert  and  with  cat-like  tread,  these  dark-hued  visitors  proved  wonders  in 
accomplishing  work  with  their  strange  tools  and  stranger  building  material. 


DINNER  TIME  AT  THE  FAIR — Negrotes  were  summoned  to  their  meals  through 
the  use  of  a  ''musical  instrument"  not  unlike  the  tom-toms  to  he  heard  at  the  lunch 
rooms  of  most  railroad  stations.  Aside  from  its  mission  as  a  dinner  bell  the  gong  en- 
joyed great  popularity  among  the  Negrotes  as  a  means  of  entertainment. 


Filipinos  at  the  Faik  313 

fully— faithfully  for  Igorrotes— and  completed  two  grass-roofed  huts  a 
big  one  and  a  little  one,  in  as  many  days. 

All  the  work  on  each  was  done  by  the  savages.  Woodwork  for  all  the 
huts  had  been  brought  along,  but  parts  had  been  lost  on  the  way,  and  it 
was  necessary  to  hew  timbers  anew.  When  the  framework  had  been  set 
and  the  timbers  all  thonged  together,  the  roofing  was  begun  and  this  was 
turned  into  a  frolic. 

Over  near  the  entrance  to  the  stockade  the  women  were  reveling  in  a 
great  mound  of  native  grass,  tieing  it  into  wisps  and  chanting  wierd  songs 
a's  they  worked. 

The  wi-sps  were  made  into  sheaves  and  half-clad  boys  carried  them  on 
poles  across  the  ravine  to  the  men  who  were  building  the  houses. 

Several  worked  on  the  roof,  tying  the  wisps  to  the  bamboo  strips.  The 
others  hurled  the  wisps  up,  with  unerring  aim,  and  the  men  on  the  roof 
caught  them  with  a  good  deal  of  skill. 

The  Igorrotes  are  great  resters.  They  work  awhile  and  then  sit  down 
and  smoke  and  rest  -twice  as  long.  But  there  were  so  many  of  them  at 
this  particular  task  that  a  good  deal  of  progress  was  made  at  that. 

Whether  working  or  resting  they  talked  a  great  deal. 

STEAW-MEN  AS  DEVIL-CHASEES. 

When  the  houses  were  completed  devil-chasers  were  suspended  on 
slender  bamboos  at  the  apex  of  the  roofs  to  scare  evil  spirits  away.  These 
were  small,  crude  figures  of  men,  made  of  straw. 

With  a  good  deal  less  fuss  and  a  good  deal  more  success  the  Tingannes 
worked  quietly  away  at  their  bamboo  house  on  stilts,  back  by  the  bamboo 
stockade. 

DISEASE  DEMON  DRIVEN  AWAY  BY  DOG  OFFERING. 

The  Disease  Demon  was  driven  from  the  Igorrote  village  at  the 
world's  fair  soon  after  their  arrival  with  a  double-barreled  caneo. 

Dangusan,  a  Suyoc  Igorrote  woman,  had  been  sick  for  several  days 
in  one  of  the  grass  huts  of  the  Suyocs.  The  rest  were  beginning  to  get 
worried  about  her,  and  Byungsin,  chief  of  the  Suyocs,  was  petitioned  to 
do  something. 

Byungsin  decided  that  the  occasion  called  for  a  united  effort  on  the 
part  of  both  the  Suyocs  and  the  Bontocs.  The  Suyocs  do  not  eat  dog, 
but  the  Bontocs  consider  no  caneo  complete  without  dog. 

It  was  well  known  that  the  Bontocs  were  running  short  of  dogs.    The 


314  Filipinos  at  the  Fair 

Suyocs  had  one  which  was  fairly  fat,  and  for  which  they  had  no  particu- 
lar need. 

The  chief  had  a  happy  thought.  He  would  make  an  offering  of  dog 
to  the  Bontocs,  and  thus  get  them  to  help  in  an  assault  on  the  disease 
demon. 

CAELO  IS  SACEIFICED. 

The  dog  was  killed,  and  Chief  Byungsin  made  passes  over  the  remains 
and  chanted  weirdly,  all  the  rest  of  the  Suyocs  joining  in  the  chorus. 

When  the  deceased  was  ready  to  be  singed,  the  chief  did  something 
which  none  of  the  white  spectators  understood.  As  if  in  anger,  he  seized 
dead  Carlo  by  the  feet  and  flung  him  as  far  as  possible  down  the  hillside, 
at  the  same  time  saying  something  which  sounded  like  ' '  dog  on  it. ' ' 

But  this  seemed  to  be  only  a  part  of  the  hocus-pocus,  and  after  a 
moment  two  of  the  Suyocs  went  down  the  hill,  gathered  Carlo  up  and 
brought  him  back  to  the  fire,  and  his  hair  was  artistically  singed  off. 

The  animal  was  then  roasted  and  carried  to  the  Bontocs.  Both 
branches  of  the  tribe  then  had  simultaneous  caneos,  the  Suyocs  dining  on 
chickens  as  the  Bontocs  consumed  the  dog ;  and  all  made  valiant  assaults 
on  the  Demon  Disease  with  approved  incantations. 

EEJOICING  OVEE  EECOVEEED  PATIENT. 

When  the  ceremony  was  over  Dangusan  said  she  felt  a  good  deal  bet- 
ter, and  by  noon  she  was  able  to  sit  up. 

As  soon  as  it  became  certain  that  the  Spirit  of  Disease  had  been  driven 
beyond  the  stockade,  a  caneo  of  thanksgiving  was  held  by  the  Suyocs.  For 
this  a  hog  was  slain.  With  the  porker  was  purchased  a  little  pig.  When 
all  was  ready  for  the  sacrifice,  the  Devil  which  is  supposed  to  reside  in 
every  hog  was  driven  by  incantations  into  the  little  pig,  and  it  was  chased 
out  of  the  village  as  fast  as  it  could  be  made  ,to  run. 

Before  the  hog  was  killed  a  hen  was  brought  forth  and  the  chief  took 
her  in  his  hands  and  stroked  her  feathers  for  some  time.  This  is  a  very 
important  part  of  such  proceedings.  If  she  behaves  nicely  the  caneo  goes 
on.  If  the  hen  is  a  "kluck"  and  if  she  "hablamal"  or  talks  bad,  it  is 
understood  that  the  time  is  not  propitious  for  the  show  to  go  on,  and 
proceedings  are  temporarily  suspended. 

EIEST  OP  MANY  DOG  FEASTS. 

It  was  a  ' '  dog-on ' '  happy  occasion  for  the  Igorrotes  when  the  first  of 
a  continuous  series  of  dog-feasts  was  given  at  their  camp.  It  was  the 
most  unusual  feast  that  had  ever  been  witnessed  in  St.  Louis. 


Filipinos  at  the  Fair  315 

The  yellow  dogs— and  there  were  three  of  them— received  no  mercy, 
and  the  Igorrotes  ate  the  stewed  canine  as  a  hungry  tramp  would  masti- 
cate a  free  lunch. 

The  enthusiasm  that  attends  a  banquet  at  $10  a  plate  was  small  in 
comparison  with  the  joy  shown  by  the  Igorrote.  Every  night  for  the  pre- 
ceding two  weeks  he  had  gone  to  bed  hearing  the  barking  of  the  dogs,  and 
was  made  ravenous  by  the  knowledge  that  dogs  were  near.  The  Igorrote 
was  ready  for  the  performance  of  any  desperate  act  whereby  he  might  be 
able  to  realize  on  his  fondest  dreams— a  genuine  dog  dinner,  prepared 
according  to  the  rules  of  old  Luzon. 

A  dance  preceded  and  followed  the  dog  dinner.  Occasions  of  great 
joy  are  always  marked  by  dancing  in  the  home  of  the  Igorrotes.  The 
tribe  was  awakened  at  8  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  informed  that  there 
was  something  doing  in  the  dog  line.  They  were  told  that  the  dog  would 
be  served  for  dinner. 

THE  DOG-DAISrCE  BEFORE  THE  FEAST. 

The  Igorrotes  began  the  dog-dance.  They  danced  in  relays.  ''Let 
joy  be  unconfined"  was  the  slogan  of  the  Igorrote,  and  in  order  that  the 
noise  should  not  cease,  and  that  activity  should  not  be  interrupted,  the 
Igorrotes  danced  in  sections.  When  one  division  tired,  other  willing 
dancers  took  the  places  of  those  who  had  ''run  down." 

And  so  the  dancing  continued  until  11  o  'clock.  At  that  hour  a  guard 
announced  that  the  -dogs  were  ready  for  killing.  The  Igorrotes  gave 
numerous  wild  whoops  of  joy.  Like  doomed  men  led  to  the  scaffold,  the 
coveted  yellow  dogs  were  led  from  their  kennels  and  prepared  for  execu- 
tion. 

Knives  were  whetted  and  the  Igorrotes  again  danced  for  joy.  The 
dogs'  bodies  were  thrown  into  the  16-inch  kettles,  which  were  purchased 
especially  for  the  feast. 

DRAW  LOTS  FOR  CHOICE  DOG  CUTS. 

A  cracking  fire  was  started  under  the  kettles  and  the  canines  were 
stewed.  Members  of  the  tribe  drew  lots  for  the  choice  portions.  There 
is  no  "white  meat"  in  a  dog  feast,  but  there  are  choice  portions,  just  the 
same.  The  ribs,  it  is  said,  are  particularly  palatable,  and  the  livers, 
shoulders  and  sides  are  said  to  be  fine  eating— by  the  Igorrotes. 

Three  pots  were  operated,  and  in  each  pot  a  dog  was  stewed,  the  fumes 


316  Filipinos  at  the  Fair 

from  the  boiling  kettle  fnrnishing  an  incentive  for  more  dancing  and 
more  noise. 

The  old  men  of  the  tribe  took  charge  of  the  distribution,  and  on  the 
bare  grass,  with  no  tablecloths,  no  napkins,  nor  dishes,  the  Igorrotes  en- 
joyed their  canine  feast,  and  ate  heartily. 

SLICED  BANANAS  AND  STEWED  DOG. 

While  dog  was  the  paramount  feature  on  the  Sunday  menu  of  the 
Igorrote  during  his  stay  at  the  fair,  other  native  delicacies  were  otfered 
to  the  hungry.  Sliced  bananas  doesn't  seem  an  appropriate  accompani- 
ment to  stewed  dog,  but  the  Igorrotes  got  it.  Boiled  rice  with  dog  gravy 
was  another  item  on  the  bill  of  fare,  and  the  last  number  was  stogies, 
which  the  Igorrotes  are  extremely  fond  of. 

So  voracious  were  the  Igorrotes  in  their  appetite  for  dog  that  stray 
canines  and  even  pets  become  commercial  commodities,  and  went  to  the 
slaughter  at  prices  ranging  as  high  as  $2  each.  The  teeth  of  the  dogs 
were  carefully  preserved.  They  were  polished  and  mounted  and  sold  as 
souvenirs. 

The  Igorrotes  went  into  trade  early  on  their  arrival.  They  worked 
overtime  grinding  out  Filipino  pipes  and  mouth  harps,  which  they  ex- 
changed for  United  States  cigarettes  and  coin. 

Every  day  crowds  of  far  West  Americans  gathered  around  the  Cuartel 
to  get  a  look  at  their  fellow  citizens  from  the  far  East.  The  Igorrotes 
hung  out  of  the  second  story  windows  and  the  Yankees  stood  back  a  little 
distance,  and  the  wonder  with  which  the  latter  viewed  the  Igorrotes  is 
only  equaled  by  the  wonder  with  which  the  Igorrotes  viewed  their  visitors. 

It  did  not  take  the  Igorrotes  long  to  discover  that  there  was  a  market 
for  anything  Filipino  among  the  people  who  gathered  to  gaze.  They  had 
nothing  they  could  part  with  except  small  native  pipes  and  smaller 
bamboo  jewsharps.  It' was  easy  to  establish  an  understanding,  and 
trading  began. 

PREFEE    TOBACCO    TO    MONEY. 

The  Igorrotes  were  willing  to  accept  money  in  exchange,  but  they 
much  preferred  cigarettes  or  tobacco  in  any  other  form.  As  between  a 
nickel  and  a  cigarette  their  choice  was  always  the  cigarette.  In  a  vague 
way  they  understood  that  money  was  desirable,  but  they  could  not  smoke 
it  and  they  had  no  great  opportunity  to  spend  it. 


THE    MOROS    AND    VISAYANS 

Annual  Season  of  Human  Sacrifice — Most  Savage  People  on  the  Globe — Human  Life 
Counts  for  Nothing — Sure  Death  to  the  Camera  Fiend — Freed  Moro  Slave  Made  a 
Bride — Ocean  Voyage  as  a  Love  Promoter — Praying  Over  an  Engaged  Couple — 
"Swell"  Dressers  of  the  Philippines — An  Artist  in  Pants — New  Products  of  Assimi- 
lation— Artistic,  Linguistic  and  Musical  Visayans — Fighting  and  Musical  Scouts — 
Regular  Members  of  the  U.  S.  Army — Iron  Constitutions  and  Disease-Proof — Their 
First  Snow  and  Snowball  Fight — Culture  Shown  by  Philippine  Ethnological  Museum — 
Match  Locks,  Springfield  Rifles  and  "Bluff"  Guns — Native  Swords,  Hatchets  and 
Execution  Knives. 

EXT  to  the  Igorrotes  the  Mores  attracted  greatest  attention  at  the 
Filipino  Reservation,  because  of  the  belief  that  they  are  blood- 
thirsty cannibals  who  offer  up  human  sacrifices  once  a  year.  They  are 
the  most  savage  of  the  savages,  and  even  at  the  world's  fair  were  care- 
fully watched  to  prevent  them  from  murdering  anybody. 

The  Lanao  Moros  are  declared  to  be  eaters  of  human  flesh,  and  after 
a  battle  they  enjoy  a  barbaric  feast  of  the  human  beings  they  have  slain 
or  the  prisoners  they  have  captured.  In  their  battles  rather  than  be 
captured  and  roasted  alive  their  enemies  will  kill  themselves,  it  is 
asserted. 

ANNUAL  SEASON  OP  HUMAN  SACRIFICE, 

From  about  October  2  to  12  of  every  year  they  have  their  annual 
human  sacrifice,  as  did  the  Aztecs  of  Cortez's  day.  Between  these  days 
each  sultan,  of  whom  there  are  thirty,  sends  a  slave  to  the  feast.  The 
Moros  build  a  fountain-shaped  pyramid  of  rocks,  under  which  is  a  fire. 
When  the  rocks  are  heated  to  a  white  heat  the  slaves  are  bound  and^ 
thrown  upon  the  burning  stones,  where  they  are  roasted. 

When  life  is  extinct  and  it  is  considered  by  the  Moro  chief  that  they 
are  properly  roasted,  the  bodies  are  taken  out  on  bamboo  sticks  and  then 
the  savages  thrust  into  the  parched  bodies  individual  sticks  of  bamboo 
and  the  feast  begins. 

They  are  the  only  cannibals  of  the  present  day  in  the  Philippines, 

317 


318  The  Mokos  and  Visayans 

and  despite  tlie  efforts  of  the  War  Department  it  is  suspected  they  still 
offer  up.human  sacrifices  and  eat  of  human  flesh.  Desperate  efforts  have 
been  made  to  abolish  these  barbaric  feasts,  but  to  no  avail. 

MOST  SAVAGE  PEOPLE  ON  THE  GLOBE. 

Of  all  the  savages  in  the  Philippines  these  Lanao  Moros  are  the  most 
vicious  and  bloodthirsty.  They  required  watching  every  minute  of  the  day 
and  great  care  was  exercised  to  see  that  visitors  were  properly  warned  of 
their  danger  when  around  them. 

"These  fellows  are  the  wildest  and  most  savage  people  on  the  face 
of  the  globe  to-day, ' '  said  the  official  in  charge  of  them,  C.  H.  Wex,  who 
was  private  secretary  to  Governor  Ballard,  and  who  talks  their  language 
like  a  native.  ' '  I  saw  one  of  their  human  sacrifices  and  it  was  the  blood- 
iest and  most  awe-inspiring  sight  I  ever  saw,  and  I  trust  that  I  shall  never 
witness  another.  The  slaves  sent  in  by  the  sultans  are  fattened  for  the 
feast  as  we  fatten  cattle  in  the 'States  for  slaughter  in  the  stockyards. 
This  human  offering  has  been  handed  down  since  the  beginning  of  time, 
and  the  Spaniards  made  desperate  efforts  to  break  it  up,  but  unsuccess- 
fully. 

' '  The  United  States  soldiers  have  tried,  too,  to  break  up  the  slaughter 
of  the  slaves,  but  to  no  avail,  for  it  positively  cannot  be  prohibited.  At 
these  barbaric  feasts  some  100,000  Moros  gather,  so  you  see  that  it  is 
utterly  out  of  the  question  for  the  army  to  prohibit  them. 

HUMAN  LIFE  COUNTS  FOE  NOTHING. 

* '  Human  life  counts  for  positively  nothing  among  these  Lanao  Moros. 
Murder  is  so  common  as  to  attract  no  attention.  The  sultan  has  the  power 
of  life  or  death,  and  so  have  the  dattos,  and  anybody  they  want  killed  they 
simply  order  him  killed.  Among  the  natives  they  slaughter  their  enemies. 
The  only  way  to  deal  with  them  is  by  their  own  way— that  is,  kill  them. 
To  imprison  them  is  worse  than  useless.'* 

SUEE   DEATH    TO    THE   CAMEEA   FIEND. 

Those  who  tried  to  get  a  snap-shot  or  a  photograph  of  the  Moros  at 
the  world's  fair  did  so  at  their  own  risk. 

A  sign  conveying  this  information  was  suspended  on  the  stockade 
about  the  Moro  village,  and  displayed  in  a  conspicuous  place  over  the 
entrance. 


The  Moeos  and  Visayans  319 

This  sign  was  decided  upon  for  fear  of  some  photographer  being 
boloed  by  an  angry  Moro. 

Guards  were  instructed  to  notify  liodakers  and  camera  fiends  that 
they  should  not  snap  the  Moros,  and  if  they  did  so  and  got  into  trouble 
they  should  not  blame  the  United  States  Government,  in  whose  care  the 
Moros  were. 

The  Moros  are  M,ohammedans,  and  one  of  the  tenets  of  their  religion 
is  against  images,  and  they  look  upon  photographs  as  images.  You 
can't  insult  a  Moro  more  than  by  trying  to  photograph  him,  and  you're 
in  luck  if  you're  not  chased  off  the  earth  if  you  try  the  kodak  on  him. 

FREED  MOEO  SLAVE  MADE  A  BRIDE. 

It  was  an  interesting  event  at  the  exi^osition  when  Coureygon 
Soungallaii,  a  beautiful  slave  girl  of  the  Mandanao  Moros,  on  the  Phil- 
ippine reservation,  was  given  her  freedom  in  order  that  she  might  become 
a  bride. 

Datta  Asume,  an  official  of  the  tribe,  had  fallen  in  love  with  her  and 
wanted  to  make  her  his  wife  after  the  forms  of  the  Mohammedan  religion. 
Moro  slaves  cannot  marry  nor  be  given  in  marriage,  but  Moro  sultans,  or 
governors,  have  the  power  of  liberating  slaves  and  enabling  them  to 
marry. 

Datta  Asume  pleaded  with  Sultan  Pitiilian  with  such  effect  that  the 
sultan  promised  to  make  Coureygon  free.  The  promise  was  as  good  as 
the  fulfillment  in  that  it  removed  the  restraint  which  existed  and  the  court- 
ship proceeded  ardently,  as  between  equals  in  Moro  society. 

The  wedding  took  place  soon  after  the  Moros  were  settled  in  their 
village  on  the  shore  of  Arrowhead  lake. 

OCEAN  VOYAGE  AS  A  LOVE  PROMOTER. 

The  ocean  voyage  from  the  Philippines  to  San  Francisco  was  to 
blame  for  the  love  affair  of  Datta  Asume  and  the  pretty  slave  girl.  At 
home,  at  Lake  Lanao,  the  girl  had  never  attracted  his  attention  particu- 
larly. She  had  been  like  the  other  slave  girls  of  the  village.  There  were 
only  eighty  of  them  on  the  ship,  and  there  were  long  days  as  the  ship 
plowed  the  Pacific,  and  taking  a  new  interest  in  the  slaves  which  had 
been  brought  along,  Datta  Asume  discovered  that  Coureygon  was  a  girl 
of  singular  attractiveness.    Her  features  were  so  fine,  compared  to  those 


320  '       The  Moeos  and  Visayans 

of  llie  other  slave  girls,  as  to  suggest  that  in  her  was  a  strain  of  the 
blood  of  a  higher  caste. 

Before  the  voyage  had  been  ended  Datta  Asume  had  to  admit  to  him- 
self that  he  was  in  love  with  the  pretty  slave  girl. 

He  knew  that  Sultan  Pitiilian  could  free  the  girl  if  he  would.  He 
stood  well  in  the  eyes  of  the  sultan  and  on  the  journey  across  the  continent 
he  took  pains  to  further  ingratiate  himself  in  favor. 

At  last  he  summoned  courage  to  confess  his  love  for  the  slave  girl 
and  ask  the  sultan  to  make  her  free. 

The  consent  was  given,  and  Datta  Asume  hastened  to  tell  Coureygon 
that  she  was  to  be  his  wife. 

LOVER  EAGER  EOE  THE  WEDDING. 

Datta  Asume  was  impatient.  He  wanted  the  wedding  bells  to  ring 
without  delay.  But  the  sultan  pointed  out  that  the  forms  of  Moham- 
medanism and  the  tribal  rites  could  not  be  carried  out  until  they  were 
in  their  own  village,  and  Datta  Asume  reluctantly  agreed  to  wait. 

When  the  wedding  took  place  everybody  within  a  mile  of  the  Moro 
village  knew  something  was  doing.  All  night  before  the  wedding  day 
(he  tom-toms  sounded  and  the  wedding  guests  feasted  on  roast  chicken 
and  rice  at  the  hut  of  Datta  Asume 's  parents.  Sultan  Patiilian  paid  the 
freight. 

BRIDE   AND   GROOM   SEPARATED. 

After  the  night's  festivities,  Asume  and  Coureygon  separated  and" 
for  three  days  each  remained  in  the  hut  of  their  respective  parents. 
Rahaimuda  Lumbayanguhai,  the  native  Mohammedan  priest,  who  was 
brought  from  the  Philippines  with  them,  visited  each  in  turn  and  went 
through  the  traditional  ceremonies. 

The  second  night  there  was  a  fiesta  at  the  home  of  the  bride. 

At  the  end  of  three  days  the  ceremonies  concluded  with  a  tom-tom 
fest. 

The  ensuing  six  days  they  were  not  allowed  to  see  each  other.  Then 
each  left  the  parental  hut  and  the  bride  built  a  hut  for  her  lord  and 
master,  who  thereafter  supplied  the  larder  with  ' '  chow. ' ' 

He  had  the  assistance  of  a  few  slaves,  which  were  donated  by  the 
sultan  and  by  his  father. 

The  bride  was  16  years  old.  It  is  not  unusual  for  Moro  girls  to  marry 
younger.    The  bridegroom  was  22. 


The  Moeos  and  Visayans  321 

During  the  stay  of  the  Moros  at  the  fair  a  sultan  took  unto  himself  a 
wife— his  ninetieth. 

PEAYING  OVEE   AN    ENGAGED    COUPLE, 

Every  morning  at  sunrise  these  followers  of  Mohammed  pray  with 
their  backs  toward  the  sun  until  it  is  high  in  the  heavens.  At  night 
they  pray  with  their  faces  to  the  sun  from  the  approach  of  sunset  until 
dark.  From  prayer,  on  the  occasion  of  this  wedding,  the  whole  colony 
of  forty  natives  took  their  places  at  the  banquet  table,  with  fish  and 
chicken  as  the  chief  articles  of  an  extensive  feast.  The  future  fortune 
of  the  couple  to  be  married  was  drunk  in  holy  water,  made  sacred  by  the 
ashes  of  a  prayer,  written  by  the  priest  Rahaimuda  Lumbayanguhai, 
and  burned  over  the  drinking  urn  at  the  feast.  When  all  had  been  satis- 
fied the  engaged  couple  were  seated  in  the  center  of  the  room  and  the 
other  natives  armed  with  bolo  knives,  spears  and  shields,  and  bearing 
a  heavy  armor  of  metal  and  turtle  shells,  danced  until  early  in  the  morn- 
ing to  the  beat  of  tom-toms. 

There  were  eight  sultans  and  three  datos  in  the  colony  at  the  expo- 
sition, and  Sultan  Saung  Hali  held  the  marriage  record  with  500  slave^ 
girls  to  his  credit.  IVhen  one  sultan  sees  a  girl  he  would  like  to  marry 
he  asks  for  a  gift  of  her  from  the  sultan  to  whom  she  belongs, 

"swell"  DEESSEES  op  the  PHILIPPINES. 

To  persons  who  obtained  their  impressions  of  the  native  Filipinos 
from  the  decollete  Igorrotes,  the  Mandanao  Moros  were  a  great  surprise. 

Their  long  suit  is  clothes.  They  are  the  "swell"  dressers  of  the 
Philippines.  Datto  Facundo,  their  chief,  is  the  Berry  Wall  of  Zambo 
Anga.  All  the  men  of  the  tribe  are  dudes  and  they  come  as  near  to  the 
sartorial  perfection  of  the  chief  as  they  can  without  being  guilty  of  lese 
majeste.    The  toilettes  of  the  women  are  just  as  brilliant, 

AN  AETIST  IN   PANTS, 

Datto  Facundo 's  fancy  runs  to  striped  pants,  and  striped  pants  are 
therefore  all  the  rage  among  the  male  Mores,  for  Datto  sets  the  fashions 
for  the  men  of  Mandanao. 

He  had  many  pairs  of  striped  pants  in  his  wardrobe.  They  were 
woven  by  hand  from  silk  and  cotton  and  were  veiy  brilliant  garments 
indeed.  But  he  also  had  pants  of  solid  colors,  red  and  blue  silk,  and 
sati«  trousers  that  were  sartorial  dreams. 


322  The  Mokos  and  Visayans 

When  Datto  stood  before  a  camera  for  the  first  time  in  America  at  the 
Cuartel  to  be  photographed  for  this  volume  he  wore  his  favorite  pair  of 
striped  pants,  of  very  brilliant  hues,  a  tight-fitting  jacket  of  silk,  in  a 
delicate  shade  of  blue,  and  a  turban  fashioned  out  of  a  silk  handkerchief. 

Datto  had  none  of  his  wives  with  him,  so  Sumlia,  the  wife  of  Tapsin, 
posed  with  the  chief  in  the  gayest  of  fiesta  array. 

She  wore  a  sarong,  a  sort  of  elaborated  scarf,  in  lieu  of  a  skirt,  and 
wore  it  so  tight  that  it  discounted  by  30  per  cent  the  tie-back  of  one-time 
popularity.  The  upper  part  of  her  person  was  robed  in  a  tight-fitting 
silk  bodice  of  deceptive  coloring,  and  her  black  hair  was  coiled  according 
to  the  1904  mode  in  Zambo  Anga,  the  village  from  which  all  the  members 
of  the  party  came. 

The  ladies  who  went  to  see  the  Moro  women  in  their  lake  houses  on 
Arrowhead  raved  over  the  garments  of  their  eastern  sisters,  and  the  men 
at  least  gained  from  an  inspection  of  the  wardrobe  of  Datto  Facundo 
an  idea  of  the  colorful  possibilities  in  trousers. 

To  keep  them  from  contracting  American  ideas  79  Visayans  were 
imprisoned  in  the  Cuartel  on  the  Philippine  reservation  at  the  world's 
fair.  Although  theoretically  free,  they  had  every  right  to  envy  the  120 
Moros,  who  are  nominally  slaves. 

The  Visayans  were  held  incommunicado.  Reports  that  there  was 
great  dissatisfaction  among  them  leaked  out  from  time  to  time.  Prob- 
ably one-third  of  them  spoke  English.  It  was  declared  they  acquired 
American  bad  habits  so  readily  that  it  was  necessary  to  practically 
imprison  them. 

NEW  PRODUCTS  OF  ASSIMILATION. 

Bontoc  Igorrotes,  Tinganue,  Suyoc  Igorrotes,  Negritos,  Visayans, 
Samal  Moros,  Lanao  Moros,  Bogobos,  Tagalogs  and  others  were  included 
in  the  Filipino  tribal  showing.  The  most  interesting  persons  of  the  lot 
as  types  of  the  higher  civilization  in  the  Philippine  Islands  were  Fran- 
cisco and  Carmen  Mendoza. 

They  are  brother  and  sister  and  are  Tagalogs,  the  aristocrats  of  the 
islands.  In  common  with  most  of  the  Tagalogs  they  have  adopted  Euro- 
pean dress,  with  only  such  modifications  as  are  usual  in  the  tropics. 

They  attended  the  world's  fair  in  the  capacity  of  musicians.  Carmen 
had  the  distinction  of  being  the  only  person  at  the  Philippine  exposition 
who  could  play  the  harp.  She  played  this  instrument  and  her  brother 
played  the  guitar  at  the  stereopticon  building. 


The  Moros  and  Visayans  323 

artistic,  linguistic  and  musical  visayans. 

The  Visayan  village,  located  at  the  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  Phil- 
ippine exhibit,  offered  the  most  artistic  of  the  native  Philippine  dwell- 
ings. Among  the  Visayans  were  four  children,  under  nine  years  old, 
who  could  speak  Spanish  and  English.  It  is  a  common  thing  for 
Visayans  to  speak  three  languages. 

There  was  a  Visayan  orchestra  of  sixteen  pieces  in  the  colony.  Deloso 
Juan,  the  leader,  was  the  principal  personage  with  the  Visayans  at  the 
fair.  A  number  of  the  players  were  composers  as  well.  '^Visayan"  is 
the  name  given  one  of  their  compositions,  and  '  *  Queen  of  Hearts ' '  was 
given  to  one  composed  while  the  orchestra  was  in  Hong  Kong.  The 
orchestra  played  in  the  native  theater,  which  was  a  feature  of  the  Visayan 
village.  Another  feature  was  a  Catholic  church,  the  Visayans  having  the 
only  one  on  the  Philippine  grounds. 

riGHTING  AND  MUSICAL  SCOUTS. 

The  Philippine  scout,  seen  in  large  numbers  at  the  fair,  is  none  of 
your  dog-eating,  head-hunting,  half-naked  Igorrote.  He  is  a  well-built 
man,  with  a  countenance  as  intelligent  as  a  Japanese  or  any  other  civilized 
person  of  the  Orient,  and  in  manner  and  bearing  he  is  considered  a  credit 
to  his  race. 

There  were  about  450  of  these  scouts  shown,  including  a  band  of  forty- 
five  pieces.  And  the  members  of  this  band  were  not  selling-platers  in  the 
music  line,  either.  They  played  the  best  music  in  a  manner  that  won 
great  applause  from  an  audience  of  about  7,000,  which  gathered  on  the 
reservation  every  afternoon  and  gazed  in  wonder  on  the  fighting  natives 
of  the  Orient. 

The  band  of  the  Philippine  scouts  can  jump  from  ragtime  to  the 
overture  from  ''William  Tell"  without  batting  an  eye  or  making  an 
extra  pucker  of  the  lips.  Under  the  direction  of  Eugene  P.  Fischer,  a 
former  member  of  the  army,  this  native  band  rendered  pleasing  melody. 

REGULAR  MEMBERS  OF  THE  U.  S.  ARMY. 

Those  who  visited  the  world's  fair  Filipino  army  found  that  the 
Philippines  hold  something  else  besides  savages.  The  scouts  represent 
the  pick  of  the  native  army.  They  are  the  dudes  of  the  Philippines  and 
come  from  the  best  families.  They  speak  Spanish  and  their  native  lan- 
guage fluently,  and  most  of  them  have  a  fair  knowledge  of  English. 


324     ^  The  Moeos  and  Visayans 

They  iiave  square  shoulders,  stand  perfectly  erect,  look  the  soldier 
from  head  to  foot,  and  work  with  vim  and  determination. 

The  scouts  have  sworn  allegiance  to  the  stars  and  stripes  and  are 
regular  members  of  the  United  States  Army.  Having  an  appreciation 
of  their  rights  and  privileges,  no  one  can  molest  them  without  subjecting 
himself  to  the  dangers  of  the  bayonet,  and  as  the  camp  of  the  Philippine 
scouts  was  under  army  regulations,  visitors  within  the  lines  had  to  behave 
themselves. 

At  the  end  of  the  exposition  these  scouts  were  discharged  from  the 
army.  They  were  then  allowed  to  remain  in  this  country  if  they  chose, 
or  transported  to  the  Philippines  by  the  Government  if  they  desired  to 
return. 

lEON   CONSTITUTIONS  AND   DISEASE-PEOOF. 

The  scouts  are  short  in  stature,  but  are  stocky  in  build.  They  appear 
to  have  constitutions  of  iron  and  disease  seldom  affects  them.  When  they 
were  enlisted  in  the  service  of  the  army  in  1901,  they  were  sent  into 
regions  in  which  it  had  bean  found  that  few  American  soldiers  could  live. 
These  included  the  fever  districts  in  the  Philippines,  places  where  few 
white  men  ever  go.  Fever  holds  no  dread  for  a  Philippine  scout.  He  is 
apparently  immunee 

On  the  trip  across  the  Pacific  few  of  them  were  seasick,  and  from 
San  Francisco  to  St.  Louis  the  journey  overland  was  not  marred  by 
sickness.  In  the  camp  at  the  world's  fair  there  was  a  great  hospital  tent 
but  it  housed  few  patients. 

"Whenever  the  U.  S.  army  paymaster  visited  the  Philippine  scout 
camp  he  disbursed  over  $7,000  among  the  natives  serving  under  the  stars 
and  stripes.  The  scouts  were  allowed  full  pay,  just  twice  their  salaries  in 
the  Philippines,  and  double  clothing  allowances  while  at  the  fair.  This 
was  in  consideration  of  the  increased  cost  of  living,  and  the  fact  that  most 
of  them  had  to  send  money  home  to  their  families.  Major  W.  H.  John- 
son, in  command,  installed  an  army  canteen  in  the  camp  where  soft 
drinks,  sandwiches,  fresh  milk  and  tobacco  at  cost  rates  could  be  had. 
Cigars  that  cost  the  Governm^ent  three  cents  apiece  were  sold  to  the  scouts 
eight  for  a  quarter.  Celluloid  collars  and  other  dress  supplies  were  also 
kept. 

THEIR  FIEST  SNOW  AND  SNOWBALL  FIGHT. 

The  Filipino  scouts  had  the  time  of  their  lives  at  the  world's  fair 
on  their  arrival  amid  a  snowstorm.    They  made  and  threw  snowballs  and 


T'HE  MOEOS  AND  ViSAYANS  325 

cheered  the  good  throws  and  accepted  the  soft  ''bullets"  for  full  face 
blows  as  merrily  as  children  in  a  pillow  fight. 

Once  in  a  while  some  American  officer  would  make  a  hard  snowball 
and  hit  one  of  the  men  with  a  force  that  would  almost  knock  him  down 
and  the  others  would  rush  to  the  officer  to  see  how  it  was  done. 

The  scouts  were  ordered  out  to  remove  the  snow  from  their  camp 
tents  and  then  Maj.  Johnson  ordered  them  into  the  stove-heated  tents  for 
warmth.  A  few  moments  later,  the  men  in  the  ranks  sent  an  emissary  to 
Maj,  Johnson  asking  permission  to  snowball. 

He  granted  the  request  and  within  three  minutes  the  battle  was  ragiag 
in  all  quarters  of  the  camp.  The  scouts  had  seen  snow  for  the  first  time 
in  their  trip  across  the  mountains,  but  when  it  was  described  to  them  they 
said : 

''Quiero  probarl"  which  to  a  Missourian  means  ^^show  me."  Liter- 
ally it  means  ''let  me  feel  it."  They  were  "shown"  the  first  thing  on 
their  arrival  at  St.  Louis. 

A  band  of  eighty  pieces  accompanied  the  Philippine  constabulary 
troops.  The  organization  is  the  same  as  that  of  State  Militia,  except  that 
the  former  are  in  active  service  all  the  time.  They  are  under  the  direction 
of  the  civil  government  of  the  islands,  but  are  clad  in  the  regulation  khaki 
of  the  army,  a  narrow  red  braid  as  trimmings  for  their  uniforms  being  the 
sole  distinguishing  mark  from  the  regulars. 

Nearly  every  tribe  of  the  archipelago  has  contributed  some  of  its 
picked  men  to  the  composition  of  the  constabulary,  YvTiile  many  of  them 
are  Christians,  there  are  Moros  who  are  Mohammedans,  and  for  whom  a 
special  mess  had  to  be  provided  during  their  stay  at  the  exposition. 

Their  bill  of  fare  included  salmon,  salt  fish  and  rice,  as  the  tenets  of 
their  faith  prohibit  the  eating  of  flesh  meat.  Under  the  provision  of  a 
special  article  inserted  in  the  form  of  enlistment,  the  Mohammedans  were 
allowed  to  practice  their  forms  of  religious  worship. 

CULiTUEE  SHOWN"  BY  PHILLIPINE  ETHNOLOGICAL  MUSEUM. 

The  Museum  Exhibit  of  Philippine  Ethnology  consisted  of  exhaustive 
collections  of  all  the  materials  made  and  used  by  the  pagan  and  Moham- 
medanized  people  of  the  Archipelago.  The  articles  of  the  Christianized 
peoples  made  up  the  remainder  of  the  Philippine  exhibit  so  far  as  tho 
native  products  of  the  islands  were  concerned. 

The  most  striking  fact  brought  out  about  the  culture  of  the  wild 


326  The  Mokos  and  Visayans 

peoples  of  the  islands  is  its  shallowness.  Two  small  pieces  of  bamboo 
with  which  to  rub  fire  into  being,  a  sharp  stick  with  which  to  dig  the 
earth,  a  narrow  strip  of  flayed  bark  for  the  woman  to  wrap  about  her 
hips,  with  perhaps  another  strip  for  the  man's  breech-cloth  and  a  dense 
growth  of  cogon  grass  or  an  impassable  forest  jungle  for  the  startled 
savages  to  flee  into— and  you  have  the  essence  of  all  that  is  characteristic 
of  the  culture  of  the  wild  people  of  the  Philippines. 

The  Ethnological  Museum,  however,  brought  together  from  various 
characteristic  peoples  of  the  islands  the  articles  which  told  the  story  of 
the  culture  of  each  group.  The  beautiful  bead-work  of  the  Bogobos, 
the  gaudy  colored  clothing  of  the  Moros,  the  exquisite  steel-work  of  the 
peoples  all  truly  demonstrated  that,  in  spite  of  the  uniform  shallowness 
of  the  Philippine  culture  here  and  there,  something  has  impelled  a  group 
of  savages  to  develop  to  a  high  degree  an  industrial  activity  which  else- 
where in  the  Archipelago  may  yet  be  in  its  crudest  development. 

MATCH  LOCKS,   SPRINGFIELD  RIFLES  AND   '' BLUFF "   GUNS. 

In  the  collection  of  war  material  shown  were  old-fashioned  Arab 
match  lock  guns,  brought  into  the  Philippines  from  Arabia  150  years  ago ; 
a  collection  of  ancient  flint  locks  that  date  back  to  the  era  of  the  American 
revolution  and  also  a  large  number  of  old-time  Springfield  rifles.  Most 
of  these  ancient  arms  were  secured  by  the  tribes  from  Arabia  and  China, 
and  Yankee  traders  are  responsible  for  the  bringing  into  the  islands  the 
old  Civil  War  weapons. 

There  were  also  a  number  of  wooden  guns.  These  were  carried  by  the 
Filipinos  during  the  insurrection  to  deceive  the  Americans,  and  make 
them  think  that  they  had  more  firing  arms  than  they  possessed.  These 
wooden  arms  are  a  species  of  Filipino  blutf .  They  were  used  extensively 
and  with  effect  on  the  Spaniards,  but  the  Americans  were  not  cowed  by  a 
show  of  arms. 

NATIVE   SWORDS,   HATCHETS   AND   EXECUTION   KNIVES. 

In  the  exhibit  was  a  vast  number  of  swords,  some  of  them  artistically 
engraved  and  some  inlaid  in  silver  and  copper.  The  Moro  sword  is 
incased  in  a  wooden  scabbard.  It  is  tied  in  with  grass  and  carried  on  the 
shoulder,  so  that  the  Moro  appears  friendly  until  he  gets  up  to  his  victim, 
when  he  swings  his  sword  with  the  scabbard,  the  blade,  of  course,  cutting 


The  Moeos  and  Visayans  327 

the  grass  ropes.  The  result  is  that  the  enemy  is  cut  and  the  scabbard  falls 
to  the  ground. 

Dirks  of  native  make,  hatchets  with  which  the  savage  tribes  cut  off 
heads,  execution  knives  for  beheading  and  many  other  odd  implements 
of  warfare,  including  spears,  were  in  the  display.  Most  of  these  imple- 
ments are  made  by  Moros.  The  bar  iron  was  secured  from  China  and 
fashioned  into  war  arms  by  them. 

It  is  said  that  the  Spaniards  attempted  to  build  a  railroad,  but  the 
railroads  were  torn  up  by  the  Moros  and  the  rails  made  into  war  imple- 
ments. Some  of  these  crude  atfairs,  shaped  for  war  hatchets  and  be- 
heading blades,  were  shown  in  the  collection. 

Natives  near  old  Cavite  extracted  the  iron  work  from  Montejo's  fleet 
after  Dewey  sank  it  and  converted  the  iron  into  war  arms,  and  some  of 
these  were  also  shown.  One  was  a  huge  hatchet,  clumsy,  but  with  a  blade 
as  sharp  as  a  razor. 

In  the  collection  were  suits  of  armor  of  the  Moros,  made  of  copper 
chain,  fastened  to  caribo  bones,  and  each  suit  weighing  about  sixty 
pounds.  There  were  helmets  of  the  same  material  and  an  endless  array 
of  other  articles  that  the  Philippine  tribes  use  in  their  warfare. 

ODD  FILIPINO  MIDGETS. 

One  of  the  great  curiosities  of  the  Philippine  quarter  was  a  pair 
of  marvelous  midgets,  brother  and  sister.  Juan  de  la  Cruz,  the  Filipino 
midget,  paid  an  early  visit  to  the  Patagonian  giants,  and  the  giants 
returned  the  visit  later  on  the  same  day.  Juan  had  been  wanting  to 
see  them  ever  since  he  heard  about  them  shortly  after  his  arrival.  It 
was  too  far  for  him  to  walk,  but  he  kept  on  importuning  until  Mark 
Evans,  who  had  him  in  charge,  obtained  a  vehicle  and  took  him  over. 

The  first  impulse  of  the  giants,  when  they  saw  Juan,  was  to  run. 
He  was  so  unlike  anything  human  that  they  had  ever  seen  before  that 
they  were  not  disposed  to  take  any  chances  on  the  prowess  which  might 
be  his,  in  spite  of  his  lack  of  stature. 

Mr.  Evans  explained  to  the  interpreter  of  the  giants  and  he  in  turn 
explained  to  the  giants.  Introductions  followed  and  everybody  shook 
hands. 

MADE   "a   hit"   with   PATAGONIAN   GIANTS. 

The  brobdignagians  relaxed  more  than  they  had  on  any  previous 
occasion.    They  examined  Juan  with  great  care  to  make  sure  that  he 


328  The  Moros  and  Visayans 

■was  not  a  man  of  ordinary  size,  with  a  collapsible  mecliamsm  wMcli 
enabled  him  to  flatten  like  an  opera  hat,  but  were  forced  to  conclude  that 
there  was  no  trick  about  it. 

Juan  invited  them  to  call  on  him  and  said  ''so  long"  in  Spanish. 
The  giants  stood  in  front  of  their  tent  and  watched  the  midget  out  of 
sight. 

The  giants  have  an  idea  that  the  time  to  pay  social  obligations  is 
now.  Soj  two  hours  later,  they  put  on  their  Sunday  guanaco  skins  and 
drilled  up  over  the  hill  to  the  enartel  and  returned  the  call. 

To  further  show  their  good  will,  they  took  with  them  oranges  and 
bananas,  which  they  presented  to  Juan  and  his  sister,  Maritana,  with 
prodigious  awlrwardness  and  much  confusion. 

Their  interest  in  Maritana  was  even  greater  than  had  been  their 
interest  in  Juan.  They  stayed  half  an  hour,  and  with  more  bowing  and 
shaking  of  hands,  they  went  back  over  the  hill  to  their  tent. 

TREE  DWELLERS  A  CURIOSITY. 

Greater  perhaps  than  all  other  Philippine  curiosities  were  the 
Filipino  tree  dwellers  at  home  in  the  Philippine  concession.  They  lived 
in  a  tree  in  the  court  of  the  Anthropological  building.  It  was  a  huge 
oak,  and,  with  its  giant  limbs,  made  an  ideal  home  for  these  strange 
people. 

These  dwellers  in  trees  are  not  common  in  the  Philippines.  They 
are  rapidly  dying  out,  for  the  American  occupation  has  made  the 
islands  so  peaceful  that  no  longer  do  they  fear  to  dwell  on  the  ground 
where  other  tribes  live.  Their  only  idea  in  living  in  trees  is  to  be  safe 
from  attack  by  neighboring  tribes.  They  reach  their  lofty  homes  by 
ladders,  which  they  pull  up  after  them. 

It  was  suggested  to  the  tribesmen  through  an  interpreter  that  there 
was  nothing  to  prevent  an  enemy  from  cutting  down  a  tree.  The  reply 
was  that  the  tree  dwellers  always  had  a  supply  of  rocks  and  stones  in 
their  houses,  with  which  they  beat  off  any  attempt  at  tree-chopping, 
and  they  also  have  their  war  weapons  with  which  to  protect  themselves. 


RED  FOX — Picturesque  old  Eed  Fox,  Brule  brave  and  medicine  man,  was  always  sur- 
rounded by  curious  persons  during  his  stay  at  the  big  show  at  St.  Louis.  It  would  be  hard 
to  find  a  better  type  of  a  dying  race  than  this  crafty  old  character. 


PAPOOSE  WITH  ELK'S-TOOTH  MANTLE— Little  War  Cloud,  a  chieftain's  daugh- 
ter, proved  a  great  drawing  card  to  members  of  the  Elk's  order,  who  visited  the  an- 
thropological camp.  The  papoose  wore  daily  a  mantle  composed  entirely  of  elk's  teeth 
now  very  valuable  and  worn  as  emblems  and  jewelry. 


A  SIMPLE  REPAST — Wearied  with  duty  at  the  exposition  grounds,  this  soldier  has 
thrown  himself  down  to  eat,  just  as  he  would  in  the  field  in  time  of  military  operations. 
Neither  the  blazing  sun  nor  the  presence  of  a  curious  throng  disturbs  his  hearty  appe- 
tite in  the  least. 


LITTLE  NELSON  WHITE  SHIRT— This  papoose,  an  Arapahoe  from  the  Cheyenne 
agency,  O.  T.,  was  only  six  weeks  old  when  he  arrived  at  the  Louisiana  Purchase  exposi- 
tion and  attracted  wide  attention  from  all  lovers  of  children.  Throughout  the  fair  he 
managed  to  have  the  best  kind  of  a  time. 


CHIEF  TWO  STRIKES — This  aborigine,  a  representative  of  the  Blackfeet,  was  a 
silent  observer  of  all  that  transpired  at  the  exposition.  As  Two  Strikes  witnessed  the 
unfolding  of  history  since  almost  back  to  the  time  of  the  Louisiana  purchase,  his  opinions 
would  have  been  well  worth  hearing. 


CIVILIZED  OR  SAVAGE,  WHICH?— Here  we  have  the  product  of  a  quarter  of  a 
century's  contact  with  the  white  settler.  This  Indian  had  no  sooner  become  settled  in 
his  new  quarters  at  the  fair  than  he  forgot  his  civilized  raiment,  daubed  on  the  war-paint 
and  whooped  with  his  fellows  from  the  most  remote  reservations. 


COOKING  FOR  UNCLE  SAM  AT  THE  FAIR— This  soldier  boy  is  preparing  for 
dinner  after  standing  a  long  watch  on  guard  duty  in  the  natural  park  beyond  the  Phil- 
ippine enclosures.  There  will  be  mashed  potatoes — a  luxury  in  the  army.  The  promptness 
with  which  the  welcome  dinner  call  will  come  depends  largely  upon  his  briskness. 


BIG  BEAR — A  six-foot  warrior,  in  full  dress,  with  his  loved  pipe  and  all  tlic  traj)- 
pjngs  of  liis  peo^jle.  An  example  of  the  race  that  peopled  the  great  West  when  the  white 
man  tiu-ned  bis  face  toward  the  setting  sun  and  began  the  conquest  of  Louisiana. 


CHAPTER.    XXIII. 
INDIANS    AT    THE,    FAIR. 

Genesis  of  the  House  in  the  West — Living  Underground  Like  Prairie  Dogs — The  Tepee 
a  Modern  Sioux  Conceit — Dirt  Lodges  of  the  Western  Plain  Indians — Dirt  Lodges 
Abandoned  for  Tepees — Dr.  Dorsey  and  the  Exposition  Dirt  Lodge — Geronimo  Re- 
fuses to  Exhibit  Himself — Indian  Congress  of  Fifty-one  Tribes — The  Sioux  Eager 
Church  Goers — A  Native  Episcopalian  Minister — "Men  Work,  Ugh!"  Says  Sioux  Chief 
—Disgusted  with  the  Naked  Igorrotes— Cliff  Dwellings  and  Pueblos— Pueblo  Women 
Unictue  Dressers — First  Snowballing  by  Pueblos — Giants  of  the  Colorado  River  Valley 
— Live  in  Grass  Houses  and  Dress  Hair  with  Mud — Homely  Sctuaw  Inventor — Red 
Women  Still  the  Burden  Bearers. 

INDIANS !    Yes,  all  kinds  of  them !    The  Louisiana  Purchase  Expo- 
sition would  not  have  been  physically    or    educationally    complete 
without  them. 

Most  striking  among  the  Indian  features  was  the  queer  dirt  lodge 
which  a  band  of  Pawnee  and  Wichita  red  men  burrowed  on  the  west  hill 
near  the  Indiana  building.  For  this  strange  domicile  was  the  very  anti- 
pode  of  those  great  white  buildings  which  were  the  glory  of  the  fair.  As 
they  typified  the  best  of  man's  structural  genius  west  of  the  Mississippi 
river,  so  did  this  queer  Indian  house  represent  the  very  beginning  of 
architecture  in  the  Louisiana  territory. 

GENESIS  OF  THE  HOUSE  IN  THE  WEST. 

This  genesis  of  the  house  in  the  western  United  States  was  reproduced 
that  those  who  visited  the  fair  might  study  the  picture  in  contrast  and 
gain  in  a  glance  an  idea  just  how  great  were  the  triumphs  of  civilization 
in  the  Louisiana  territory  in  one  hundred  years.  The  student  pointing 
to  the  one  could  say :  ' '  There  is  what  they  were  building  in  this  part  of 
the  world  a  century  ago;  here  is  what  they  are  building  to-day." 

LIVING  UNDEKGROUND  LIKE  PRAIRIE  DOGS. 

But  not  for  its  comparative  interest  alone  was  the  dirt  lodge  of  the 
Indians  a  fascinating  feature  of  the  fair.    It  was  ethnically  interesting  as 

337 


338  Indians  at  the  Fair 

well ;  for  within  it  the  Indians  dwelt  through  the  period  of  the  exposition, 
just  as  their  forefathers  lived  in  such  houses  out  upon  the  great  American 
plains  for  many  hundreds  of  years. 

Like  prairie  dogs,  they  lived  underground.  Like  moles,  they  bur- 
rowed into  the  earth.  Like  rabbits,  they  took  refuge  from  the  storm  in 
their  warren;  and  like  cave  dwellers,  they  groped  around  in  the  half- 
light,  crawled  on  all  fours  through  narrow  passages,  and  lived  very  close 
to  that  warm-hearted  old  soul— dear  Mother  Earth. 

Dr.  Geo.  A.  Dorsey,  curator  of  the  Field  Museum,  at  Chicago,  was 
commissioned  by  the  exposition  Bureau  of  Ethnology  to  look  after  the 
dirt  lodge  for  the  fair. 

Dr.  Dorsey  has  worked  among  the  western  Indians  a  great  deal.  He 
knows  their  traditions,  the  stories  of  their  old  men,  the  customs  of  the 
tribes,  and  much  of  the  history  of  that  western  race  whose  racial  pictur- 
esqueness  was  so  strong  that  a  hundred  years  of  civilization  have  been 
unable  to  efface  it, 

THE   TEPEE   A    MODERN    SIOUX    CONCEIT. 

One  is  ordinarily  accustomed  to  think  of  the  tepee  as  the  typification 
of  Indian  homes,  to  believe  that  the  red  man  always  lived  in  the  conical 
structure  whose  practicability  has  proven  such  that  years  ago  the  United 
States  army  adopted  it  under  the  name  of  the  Sibley  tent. 

But  the  tepee  is  modern— at  least  to  many  tribes.  Disappointing  as 
the  statement  may  be,  it  is  true  enough,  for  out  on  the  great  plains  of 
the  West  there  lived  and  died  in  the  centuries  thousands  upon  thousands 
of  Indians,  whose  eyes  never  beheld  a  tepee.  This  fine  little  architectural 
conceit  came  to  many  tribes  of  the  Sioux  less  than  a  hundred  years  ago. 
They  made  the  first  tepees  in  what  are  now  the  Dakotas,  lifting  poles  and 
binding  skins  about  them  as  a  get-shelter-quick  plan  while  hunting  the 
buifalo  upon  the  great  plains. 

The  ancestors  of  the  Sioux,  it  is  held,  knew  nothing  of  this  little  trick. 
They  had  no  such  inviting  house.  They  were  gophers  pure  and  simple, 
and  lived  in  the  ground,  and  it  was  because  of  his  knowledge  of  this  old 
house-building  custom  that  Dr.  Dorsey  was  selected  by  Prof.  W.  J. 
McGee,  chief  of  the  exposition  Bureau  of  Anthropology,  to  bring  to  the 
fair  a  band  of  Indians  who  would  build  on  the  grounds  one  of  those 
queer  old  dirt  lodges  in  which  the  plains  Indians  lived  before  the  Sioux 
hit  upon  the  idea  of  the  tepee. 


Indians  at  the  Fair  339 

diet  lodges  of  the  western  plain  indians. 

Dr.  Dorsey  knew  where  to  get  his  men.  He  knew  some  old  redskins 
among  the  Pawnees  and  the  Wichitas  who  had  told  him  stories  of  the 
dirt  lodges  they  lived  in  when  they  were  boys. 

Dr.  Dorsey  had  been  fascinated  by  the  story  when  first  he  heard  it. 
It  ran,  in  substance,  like  this: 

''The  Wichitas  and  the  Pawnees  were  living  on  the  great  plains  in 
their  dirt  lodges.  They  were  like  the  prairie  dogs,  the  ground  hogs,  the 
gophers  and  badgers.  They  burrowed  their  homes  in  the  earth,  and 
raised  over,  them  a  frame  work  of  willows,  covered  this  over  with  tough 
prairie  grass,  and  then  put  on  the  main  roof  of  sod. 

"All  the  tribes  of  the  plains  did  this.  There  was  no  other  type  of 
house  among  them.  Some  of  the  braves  who  went  hunting  far  off  to 
the  southwest  heard  stories  of  big  Indian  houses  built  of  stones,  but  there 
were  nothing  but  dirt  lodges  upon  the  plains,  and  an  Indian  town  looked 
like  a  cluster  of  bumps  on  the  ground,  each  with  its  opening  in  the  top, 
each  with  its  door  leading  down  at  the  side,  and  each  sheltering  all  the 
way  from  30'  to  50  persons. 

"The  Pawnees  and  the  Wichitas  lived  comfortably  in  their  dirt 
lodges.  The  lodge  was  a  good  shelter  from  storms.  It  was  a  storehouse 
in  which  the  meat  of  the  hunters  was  safe  from  the  wolves  and  the  coyotes 
which  ran  over  the  plains,  seeking  what  meat  they  might  steal.  It  was 
a  safe  retreat  from  the  enemies  of  the  tribe,  for  the  roof  was  firm  and 
thick  and  a  single  warrior  could  guard  the  door  against  any  number  of 
foemen. 

DIRT  LODGES  ABANDONED  FOR   TEPEES. 

"The  tribes  never  thought  of  any  other  sort  of  lodge  until  one  day 
some  Pawnee  hunters  rode  down  from  the  North  and  said:  'We  don't 
know  anything  about  lodges.  The  Dakotahs  are  much  ahead  of  us.  They 
have  tepees.  They  live  on  top  of  the  ground.  They  have  fresh  air,  and 
whenever  they  desire  to  go  to  some  place  where  there  are  more  buffalo 
and  elk,  they  have  only  to  wrap  the  sides  of  the  house  about  the  poles, 
lift  one  end  to  the  girth  of  a  pony  and  drag  the  house  with  them.  It  is  a 
much  better  plan  than  our  own. ' 

"Then  it  was  that  the  Pawnees,  the  Wichitas  and  all  the  other  tribes 
of  the  plains  abandoned  their  dirt  lodges.  They  made  tepees.  It  was  so 
much  simpler  and  it  required  much  less  work. ' ' 


)40  Indians  at  the  Faie 


DR.  DORSEY  AND  THE  EXPOSITION  DIET  LODGE. 

Dr.  Dorsey  went  West  and  found  some  of  the  old  men  who  had  told 
him  this  story. 

''Can  you  build  us  one  of  those  old  dirt  lodges  at  the  St.  Louis  fairl" 
he  asked  them. 

They  said  ''yes,"  and  the  result  was  the  strange  abode  that  followed. 
Forty  Indians  occupied  the  huge  burro,  with  their  food  and  practically  all 
their  earthly  possessions,  living  in  the  cellars  and  sub-cellars  just  as  their 
ancestors  did  centuries  before. 

The  Pawnee  sweat  bath,  another  unexpected  feature  of  Indian  life 
encountered  at  the  fair,  is  a  rude  imitation  of  the  fashionable  Turkish 
bath.  The  Indians  put  up  a  willow  tepee  and  cover  it  with  blankets.  They 
place  hot  stones  in  the  tepee,  cover  them  with  blankets,  and  pour  hot 
water  upon  them.  The  steam  fills  the  tepee,  and  opens  the  pores  of  the 
skin. 

GEKONIMO  REFUSES  TO  EXHIBIT  HIMSELF. 

A  party  of  nine  Apaches  and  five  Comanches,  dwelling  in  peace  on 
the  grounds  of  the  Government  Indian  exhibit,  included  one  of  the  Indian 
scouts  who  helped  bring  about  the  surrender  of  Goronimo.  There  were 
hopes  that  Geronimo  could  be  shown  exposition  visitors,  but  before  the 
opening  word  was  brought  from  the  stoical  old  chief  of  seventy-one  years 
that  he  wanted  "big  money"  before  he  would  consent.  Charles  Martine, 
a  noted  Apache  scout,  whose  Indian  name  is  Bah-dah-go-gilth-ilth,  was 
among  the  Apaches. 

He  was  sent  by  General  Miles  in  1886  down  into  Geronimo 's  camp 
in  New  Mexico,  and  induced  the  chief  to  come  half  way  to  Skeleton 
canyon,  Arizona,  where  he  was  met  by  General  Miles.  Here  Geronimo 
consented  to  surrender,  after  being  told  that  he  would  be  treated  as  a 
prisoner,  and  separated  from  his  people.  George  M.  Wratten,  the  Apache 
interpreter  with  the  party,  accompanied  Martine  into  Geronimo 's  coun- 
try, and  Yanozha,  one  of  the  Apaches  who  surrendered  with  Geronimo, 
was  another  participant  in  those  troublesome  proceedings.  These  Indians 
were  from  the  reservation  at  Fort  Sill,  Oklahoma,  and  were  accompanied 
by  Superintendent  J.  W.  Haddon,  of  the  Comanche  Indian  School  there. 


Indians  at  the  Fair  341 


INDIAN"    CONGEESS    OF    FIFTY-ONE    TRIBES. 

Fifty-one  different  tribes  of  the  North  American  Indian  formed  the 
great  assembly  of  savages  shown  in  the  Indian  Congress  on  the  Pike 
without  taking  into  consideration  those  living  elsewhere  on  the  grounds. 
The  tribes  presented  a  rare  ethnological  picture  of  the  daily  life  of  ttie 
aborigine.  The  Sioux  in  their  tepees,  the  Winnebagos  in  their  wigwams, 
the  Pimas  in  their  wickiups,  Navajos  weaving  their  blankets  and  the 
Moquis  making  their  pottery,  formed  scenes  of  genuine  Indian  life  sel- 
dom found  in  any  of  the  already  familiar  pageantry  of  savagery. 

The  dances  done  by  the  tribes  included  war  dances,  sun  dances,  dances 
of  different  feasts  to  various  gods,  the  scalp  dance,  the  Omaha  dance, 
the  Buffalo  dance  and  snake  dance.  Among  the  tribes  represented  in 
this  gathering  were  Sioux,  Black  Feet,  Crows,  Apaches,  Assinaboines, 
Ogallalla  Sioux,  Cheyenne,  Brule  Sioux,  Porcupine  Sioux,  Lower  Brule 
Sioux,  Crow  Creek  Sioux,  White  Clay  Sioux,  Wounded  Knee  Sioux, 
White  Eiver  Sioux,  Pipeclay  Sioux,  Rosebud  Sioux,  Flathead,  Arapa- 
hoes,  Peigans,  Poncas,  Sac  and  Fox,  Pueblos,  Moqui,  San  Carlos  Apaches, 
Jiccarilla,  Kiowa,  Mescalero  Apaches,  Wichitas,  lowas,  Winnebagos, 
Omahas,  Otoes,  Gros  Ventre,  Pottawatomie,  Mojave,  Shoshone,  Santee, 
Osages,  Pawnees,  Chippewas,  Tuscaroras,  Onandaguia,  Oneida,  Mohawks, 
Senecas,  Cayaguas,  Ojibways. 

THE  SIOUX  EAGER  CHURCH  GOERS. 

A  novel  feature  of  Indian  life  at  the  fair  that  attracted  widespread 
attention  among  visitors  was  a  unique  program  of  church  services  inau- 
gurated Sunday  mornings  in  the  Indian  School  building,  where  about  100 
Sioux  Indians  sang  popular  hymns  of  the  country,  translated  into  their 
native  tongue,  and  listened  to  an  Episcopal  service  in  Sioux  conducted 
by  Scott  Charges  Alone.  The  latter  member  of  the  Sioux  nation  was 
with  the  ethnological  exhibit  as  interpreter  for  the  Sioux,  and  was 
ordained  into  the  Episcopal  church  at  the  Rosebud  Agency,  South  Da- 
kota, some  years  preceding.  He  secured  the  large  assembly  room  in  the 
Indian  School  building  for  regular  Sunday  services.  The  thirty-four 
Sioux  encamped  near  the  school  invited  the  Sioux  from  the  Indian  exhibit 
on  the  Pike,  and  the  latter  eagerly  accepted  as  they  had  been  searching 
for  a  place  to  go  to  church  from  the  date  of  their  arrival  in  camp  at  the 
exposition. 


342  Indians  at  the  Fair 


A  native  episcopalian  minister. 


''He  should  visit  the  sick  and  prepare  persons  for  baptism  and  teach 
school,  when  there  is  opportunity." 

"Wayazankapi  kin  wanv^icayag  i  kta,  qa  wicasta  baptisma  on  wica- 
yuwiyeye  kta,  qa  tehan  okihipica  kinhan  siceca  wayawawicakiye  kts 
iyececa." 

This  is  from  the  order  issued  by  Bishop  Hare  of  the  Episcopal  Church 
of  South  Dakota  to  Scot  Charges  Alone,  a  full-blood  Sioux  Indian,  per- 
mitting him  to  preach  the  Gospel  to  the  Indians.  The  second  paragraph 
is  the  translation  of  the  first— that  is,  the  second  is  in  the  Sioux  lan- 
guage. 

It  is  beyond  the  ordinary  individual  to  understand  Sioux,  and,  what 
is  more,  he  can't  pronounce  the  names  when  they  are  spelled.  There  is  a 
common  saying  that  "It's  all  Sioux  to  me,"  and  a  glance  at  the  Sioux 
of  the  Bishop's  order  would  seem  to  make  good  the  saying. 

However,  the  Sioux  language  is  musical.  It  is  delivered  in  a  rather 
musical  manner  and  the  songs  of  the  Sioux  are  very  musical.  There  have 
been  translations  of  such  familiar  hymns  as  "Rock  of  Ages,"  "Nearer, 
My  God,  to  Thee,"  and  "Blessed  Eedeemer,"  that  in  the  Sioux  are 
greatly  increased  in  musical  beauty. 

Scott  Charges  Alone  learned  English  at  the  Indian  school  of  the 
Eosebud  Agency,  South  Dakota,  and  speaks  English  fluently.  He  was 
ordained  by  Bishop  Hare,  and  his  official  order  was  displayed  to  visitors 
printed  in  both  Sioux  and  English. 

"men  work,  ugh!"  says  sioux  chief. 

Chief  Yellow  Hair  of  the  Sioux  and  the  warriors  of  his  village  at 
the  world's  fair  made  up  their  minds  early  as  to  what  they  think  of  the 
Filipino  tribes. 

They  decided  that  the  Moros  and  Bontocs  and  Suyocs  won't  do. 

On  their  first  visit  to  the  villages  of  the  Far  East  savages  the  Sioux 
were  favorably  impressed.  The  islanders  were  doing  nothing  that  day 
except  to  sit  around  and  smoke,  and  Yellow  Hair  and  his  braves  agreed 
that  their  Far  East  brethren  were  acting  in  a  very  gentlemanly  manner. 
They  stayed  a  long  while  and  manifested  keen  interest  in  the  attire  and 
manners  and  houses  of  the  Filipinos. 


Indians  at  the  Fair  343 

But  it  was  different  when  they  paid  a  second  visit  to  the  Philippine 
villages.  They  found  the  men  actually  working,  while  the  women  sat 
around  in  the  shade  and  gossiped. 

Looks  of  disgust  came  over  the  faces  of  the  visiting  braves.  All  said 
'^ugh"  with  unmistakable  displeasure. 

^'What  matter!"  was  asked  by  somebody  who  had  an  idea  that  an 
Indian  could  understand  better  if  addressed  in  chunks. 

''Men  work,  ugh!"  answered  Chief  Yellow  Hair,  and  he  and  his 
braves  strode  majestically  out  of  the  Bontoc  village  and  returned  to  their 
camp. 

Their  displeasure  was  so  great  that  not  a  member  of  the  party  would 
again  honor  the  Philippine  village  with  a  visit. 

DISGUSTED    WITH    THE   NAKED    IGOEEOTES. 

Equally  unsatisfactory  results  followed  when  Chief  Tall  Crane  of  the 
Sioux,  clad  in  his  gayest  robes  and  with  his  full  feathers  and  accom- 
panied by  several  of  his  tribe,  including  two  squaws,  called  on  the  Igor- 
rotes.  They  were  admitted  to  the  camp  and  they  walked  around,  looking 
keenly  at  the  naked  savages.  The  combined  clothes  of  the  savage  Igor- 
rotes,  if  sewed  together,  would  not  have  made  a  piece  of  cloth  large 
enough  to  flag  a  freight  train. 

' '  Naked  ! ' '  said  old  Tall  Crane,  with  a  wry  face. 

' '  Look  at  the  clothes ! ' '  one  of  the  Igorrotes  said  to  another  in  their 
native  tongue. 

The  Sioux  wandered  around  the  camp  of  the  Igorrotes  for  half  an 
hour,  but  apparently  did  not  enjoy  themselves.  An  interpreter  said  that 
they  were  disgusted  with  the  nakedness  of  the  Igorrotes  and  declared 
that  they  were  savages  and  were  not  American  citizens.  Chief  Tall  Crane 
looked  the  nude  people  over  critically  and  shook  his  head. 

"Not  good  people,"  he  grunted. 

^Vhile  the  Sioux  wandered  about  the  camp  they  kept  their  clothes 
even  tighter  around  them,  bringing  up  the  ends  of  their  blankets  so  that 
scarcely  their  ankles  showed.  They  were  much  interested  when  told  that 
the  Government  had  made  the  Igorrote  women  wear  coats,  even  if  the 
coats  were  not  buttoned  up,  for  by  the  coats  the  women  were  distinguished 
from  the  men. 

Very  few  Igorrotes  wore  more  than  a  breech  clout,  and  men  and 


344  Indians  at  the  Fair 

women  were  dressed  the  same,  except  that  the  women  wore  a  coat  or  a 
coarse  blouse. 

"How  do  you  like  them?"  was  asked  of  Tall  Crane. 

'  '■  Ugh ! "  he  replied,  and  shook  his  head. 

The  Igorrotes  seemed  much  interested  in  the  Indians,  particularly  in 
the  gorgeous  blankets  and  headdresses  and  feathers,  and  the  painted  faces, 
for  the  Indians  were  in  full  dress. 

Several  Negritos  were  washing  some  clothes  with  their  feet  in  the 
creek  and  the  Indians  stopped  to  watch  them,  evidently  interested.  The 
Negritos  simply  kicked  the  clothes  around  in  the  water  with  their  feet 
and  then  wrung  them  out,  spreading  them  on  the  bank  to  dry.  Then  they 
waded  in  themselves.  They  did  not  use  their  hands  to  bathe  their 
bodies. 

' '  That's  the  way  dogs  wash,"  said  one  of  the  Indians,  according  to  the 
interpreter. 

The  Sioux  were  also  interested  in  seeing  a  man  clip  the  wings  of  the 
chickens  so  that  they  could  not  fly.  The  scheme  was  explained  to  them, 
but  their  faces  showed  nothing  of  what  they  thought  of  the  scheme.  When 
an  Igorrote  tried  to  get  up  a  tight  between  two  roosters,  however,  the 
Indians  grinned  as  if  it  were  something  they  understood  and  liked. 

CLIFF  DWELLINGS  AND   PUEBLOS. 

In  the  Cliff  Dwellers '  concession  in  the  Pike  were  reproduced  the  most 
famous  caves  of  the  stone  age,  as  the  remains  exist  to-day  in  the  canons 
of  Arizona,  New  Mexico  and  Colorado.  An  added  ethnological  interest 
was  found  in  a  large  Pueblo  of  Zuni  and  Moki  Indians,  whom  science 
class  as  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  race  of  the  kings.  These  Indians 
had  never  previously  been  shown  in  any  Wild  West  display  or  in  any 
exposition.  A  cliff  dwelling  exhibit  was  one  of  the  interesting  things 
on  the  Chicago  Midway,  but  no  living  types  were  with  the  attraction. 

Huge  cliffs,  rising  to  beetling  heights,  form  the  front  of  the  conces- 
sion at  St.  Louis.  A  tower  sixty  feet  above  the  passing  crowd,  over- 
hanging ledges,  deep  fissures  and  caverns,  were  reached  by  a  tortuous 
trail  along  the  rock  sides.  Burros  conveyed  the  visitor  to  the  top  of  the 
crags,  where  the  caves  and  their  relics  could  be  seen,  and  where  a  fine 
view  was  obtained  of  the  busy  scenes  on  the  Pike  below. 

Entrance  to  the  exhibit  was  through  a  tunnel  which  pierced  the  cliffs. 
The  reverse  side  of  the  walls  presented  more  caves  and  other  mountain 


Indians  at  the  Faie  345 

trails.  Zuni  Pueblo  was  spread  around  the  inside.  A  large  assembly 
hall  of  adobe  filled  the  center  of  the  village.  In  this  theater,  the  Indians 
performed  the  dance  of  Kachina  or  masks,  the  poetic  flute  dance,  and  the 
dramatic  snake  dance.  The  Kachina  is  distinguished  by  the  use  of  the 
heads  of  buffalo  and  bear  which  are  worn  by  the  warriors  over  their 
heads  so  as  to  conceal  the  features.  The  Snake  Kiva,  a  cavern  reached 
by  a  ladder,  th€  famous  Dance  Eock  of  Wolpi,  the  Antelope  Altar,  and 
other  interesting  sights  rose  from  cacti  and  sage  growing  in  the  rocks  and 
sand.  Long  ladders  reached  to  the  roofs  of  the  Pueblo  dwellings.  Pot- 
ters, weavers,  silversmiths,  basket  makers,  blanket  makers  and  other 
Indian  workers  gave  the  final  ethnological  touch  to  the  attraction. 

The  band  of  150  Moqui,  Zuni  and  Pueblo  cliff  dwellers  was  headed 
by  their  chief.  Governor  Kamos  Archuleta,  a  member  of  the  San  Juan 
tribe,  and  had  with  them  their  priest,  Cisuke,  besides  a  great  number 
of  the  young  men  and  maidens,  and  sages  and  seers  of  the  tribes.  They 
came  to  the  fair  direct  from  their  homes  in  New  Mexico  and  Arizona. 

HEEEDITAEY   GOVEENOR  OP  THE   CLIFF  DWELLERS. 

The  most  striking  figure  of  the  party  was  Archuleta,  their  hereditary 
Governor.  He  is  the  proud  possessor  of  a  cane  given  to  him  in  1863  by 
President  Lincoln  and  a  silver  medal  presented  to  one  of  his  ancestors  in 
1837  by  President  Van  Buren.  The  medal  is  an  heirloom  of  the  rulers 
of  the  tribe  to  which  he  belongs. 

One  of  the  cherished  possessions  of  the  band  is  a  sacred  American 
eagle,  which  was  brought  along  with  the  party  to  the  fair.  The  bird 
is  an  ancient  one,  probably  antedating  any  member  of  the  band.  Other 
live  stock  included  a  quantity  of  rattlesnakes  used  in  the  Moqui  snake 
dance.  They  also  displayed  many  of  their  heathen  idols,  curios  and 
specimens  of  their  basketry,  pottery,  and  bead  and  burnt-leather  work, 
with  the  materials  for  making  more.  Many  of  the  Indians  were  Chris- 
tians. 

There  were  15  children  in  the  colony,  one  of  these  a  baby  of  four 
months. 

The  Mokis  were  entirely  new  at  expositions,  having  on  this  occasion 
left  their  reservation  for  the  first  time.  They  gave  the  snake  dance,  for 
which  they  are  famous.  All  these  people  are  regarded  as  descendants  of 
the  people  who  built  the  cliff  dwellings  of  the  Southwest,  and  they  were 
a  picturesque  lot  indeed. 


346  Indians  at  the  Fair 


PUEBLO   WOMEN   UNIQUE  DRESSEES. 

The  Pueblo  women  excited  miicli  interest  when  they  appeared,  for 
their  dress  is  unlike  that  of  any  other  primitive  people.  They  bind  their 
legs  in  thick  white  woolen  bandages.  These  women  are  famous  for  their 
feats  of  balancing  water  jars  or  ollas  upon  their  heads. 

Y/hen  the  cliff  dwellers  arrived  at  the  world's  fair  grounds  in  the 
early  spring  before  the  opening  and  peered  from  their  quarters  the 
sight  of  snow  made  them  shout  with  delight. 

''Twelke,  twelke,"  screamed  the  children.  In  a  few  minutes  the 
entire  band  had  clambered  down  the  ladders  from  their  aerial  perches  to 
revel  in  the  first  snow  they  had  ever  seen. 

^'Twelke"  is  the  Pueblo  word  for  a  specie  of  milk  weed  that  grows 
in  the  Arizona  desert,  and  the  children  thought  that  a  high  wind  had 
covered  the  ground  with  the  feathery  plumes  from  its  pods. 

FIRST  snowballing  BY  PUEBLOS. 

Barefooted  they  danced  about  in  the  snow  and  gathered  it  up  in  their 
hands,  unconsciously  made  their  first  snowballs  and  started  pelting  each 
other  as  they  had  done  with  the  milk  weed  plumes. 

The  older  members  of  the  band  were  as  delighted  as  the  children,  and 
threw  snowballs  with  all  their  might.  Even  dignified  Gov.  Ramos 
marched  from  his  quarters  out  into  the  snow  and  picked  up  a  handful  and 
gravely  tasted  it. 

As  soon  as  they  touched  the  dry  floors  and  their  feet  began  to  sting 
from  the  cold  the  papooses  sat  down,  looked  at  their  toes  in  amazement 
and  cried  "hot,  hot."  After  the  smarting  ceased  and  they  were  again 
playing  about  the  floor  of  their  quarters,  they  would  run  to  the  doors 
and  gaze  out  at  the  snow,  but  none  ventured  out  of  the  doors  again. 

Two  Eskimos  clad  in  white  cotton  garments  and  high  boots  had  the 
best  time  since  they  reached  St.  Louis  when  they  ran  out  of  doors  and 
started  to  work  in  the  trenches  in  the  snow  storm.  They  were  sent  back 
to  their  quarters  and  appeared  much  disgusted  at  the  order. 

GIANTS  OF  THE  COLORADO  RIVER  VALLEY. 

Probably  the  least  familiar  type  of  American  Indians  at  the  fair  were 
the  Cocopas  of  the  Colorado  river  country,  who  set  up  their  strange  grass- 
covered  habitation  on  the  Anthropological  reservation. 


Indians  at  the  Fair  347 

A  representative  showing  of  members  of  the  strange  tribe  of  Cocopa 
denizens  of  the  Colorado  river  swamps  along  the  southern  boundary  of 
the  United  States  left  their  homes  to  take  their  places  as  features  of  the 
Anthropological  exhibit  at  St.  Louis.  They  were  in  charge  of  E.  C. 
Cushman  of  the  Anthropological  department. 

These  Indians  are  among  the  greatest  puzzles  that  scientists  have  met 
with.  The  men  are  remarkably  large  for  that  latitude,  few  of  them  being 
under  six  feet.  The  women  are  about  5  feet  6  inches.  They  inhabit  the 
lowlands  of  the  Colorado  valley,  despite  the  fact  that  every  year  they 
are  driven  out  by  floods.  They  are  a  tribe  of  undoubted  antiquity,  but 
scientists  have  never  been  able  to  trace  their  origin.  They  inhabited 
the  Colorado  river  valley  when  Cortez  came  to  America  and  their  mode 
of  life  is  now  the  same  as  it  was  then.    The  race  is  rapidly  dying  out. 

LIVE    IN    GEASS    houses   AND    DRESS    HAIR   WITH    MUD. 

Their  grass  house,  near  the  hut  of  the  Patagonian  giants,  attracted 
unusual  attention.  No  exhibit  had  ever  been  made  before  of  the  people  or 
their  habitation. 

The  house  was  made  of  willow  posts  and  tullies,  the  latter  resembling 
the  grass  of  bullrushes,  which  grow  in  Mexico.  It  consisted  of  one  room, 
in  which  three  families  were  quartered,  and  a  front  porch  as  large  as 
the  room  where  the  22  women  and  children  spent  most  of  their  time. 
Their  cooking  was  done  over  an  open  fire,  made  in  a  hole  in  the  ground. 

The  Cocopas  have  their  cellars  on  top  of  their  houses.  In  huge 
baskets  on  the  flat  grass  roof  that  always  tops  a  Cocopa  house  are  kept 
huge  baskets  in  which  the  corn  and  beans  which  go  far  to  supply  the 
family  larder  are  stored. 

These  baskets,  as  well  as  smaller  ones,  are  woven  by  the  Indians  and 
they  were  to  be  seen  weaving  them  at  the  fair.  Very  primitive  but 
peaceable  are  the  Cocopas.  They  fish  and  farm.  Their  lands  are  in  the 
Colorado  bottoms.  As  previously  explained  these  bottoms  are  over- 
flowed every  season,  but  this  does  not  disconcert  the  Cocopas.  As  soon 
as  the  water  recedes  they  plant  their  crops  of  corn  and  wheat  and  melons 
and  pumpkins  in  the  mud. 

The  men,  as  well  as  the  women,  affect  long  hair.  They  are  great 
hairdressers.  They  "do  up"  their  hair  in  mud  and  let  the  mud  stay 
till  it  is  dry,  then  wash  it  off.  It  is  said  that  this  really  leaves  the  hair 
and  scalp  very  clean.    The  mud  is  left  on  two  or  three  days. 


348  Indians  at  the  Fair 

There  are  about  1,000  of  the  Indians  in  the  Colorado  valley.  Pablo 
Colorado  is  their  chief  and  he  was  with  the  party  at  the  fair. 

They  are  great  swimmers  and  runners.  It  is  said  that  they  can  run 
all  day  in  a  ' '  dog  trot. ' '  They  snare  quail.  They  have  a  few  guns,  but 
use  them  little.    They  were  expert  bowmen  in  the  zenith  of  their  past. 

A  HOMELY   SQUAW   INVENTOR. 

The  principal  lodge  of  the  Arapahoes  on  the  Indian  reservation  at 
the  world's  fair  was  a  recognition  of  and  tribute  to  the  wisdom  of  a 
woman.  It  consisted  of  a  large  tepee^  surrounded  by  a  circular  hedge 
of  willows  ten  feet  high. 

Tepees  may  or  may  not  be  as  old  as  the  Indians  themselves,  but  the 
willow  hedge  which  distinguished  the  Arapahoe  Lodge  from  that  of 
other  tribes  is  a  modern  device,  and  a  squaw  devised  it. 

Her  inventiveness  was  possibly  a  recompense  for  her  lack  of  personal 
charm,  for  if  there  is  anything  in  a  name  (and  there  is  a  lot  in  an  Indian 
name),  she  must  have  been  unpleasant  to  behold.  Her  name  was  Spotted 
Face,  and  she  was  also  known  as  Ugly  Woman. 

Cleveland  Warden,  full-blood  interpreter  for  the  Arapahoes  and  an 
authority  on  the  customs  of  his  people,  told  about  it. 

''Spotted  Face,"  he  said,  "had  some  children  in  the  school  on  the 
Valentine  agency  in  Oklahoma,  and  to  be  near  them  she  pitched  her  tepee 
near  the  school.  It  was  an  exposed  position  and  the  wind  annoyed  her. 
She  cut  willows  and  built  a  stockade  around  her  tepee,  binding  the  wil- 
lows together  with  slippery  elm  bark.  The  other  Indians  laughed  at  her 
at  first,  but  they  soon  saw  that  the  hedge  protected  the  tepee,  and  it  came 
into  use.  This  was  at  about  the  time  that  the  buffaloes  disappeared 
from  the  plains  and  the  Arapahoes  ceased  to  roam.  I  think  it  was  in 
1877  that  Spotted  Face  built  her  stockade,  and  ever  since  every  Arapa- 
hoe tepee  has  been  surrounded  by  a  hedge. ' ' 

In  common  with  all  tepees  the  Arapahoe  lodges  at  the  fair  faced  the 
east. 

EED  WOMEN  STIIxL  THE  BURDEN  BEARERS. 

"Let  the  women  do  the  work"  is  still  the  motto  of  the  red  man.  Con- 
tact with  civilization  has  not  changed  him  in  respect  to  his  contempt  for 
toil. 

When  the  baggage  of  the  Indians  arrived  at  the  Indian  camp  on  the 


Indians  at  the  Faie  349 

Anthropological  reservation  at  the  exposition  the  bucks  found  comfort- 
able seats  on  a  mossy  bank  in  the  shade  of  the  fence  across  the  road  from 
the  site  assigned  for  their  camp  and  gave  themselves  up  to  a  siesta,  while 
the  women  did  the  work. 

There  were  great  coils  of  tepee  canvas  and  great  bundles  of  tepee 
poles  bound  about  with  wire.  The  squaws  unbound  the  poles  and  set 
them  with  confidence  and  hung  the  canvas  about  them  with  the  opening 
toward  the  rising  sun. 

All  the  time  the  bucks  sat  on  the  mossy  bank  and  rested. 

Only  one  gave  any  token  that  he  had  any  interest  in  the  raising  of  his 
tepee.  Two  Charge,  at  the  risk  of  losing  prestige  with  his  tribesmen, 
took  care  of  his  2-year-old  papoose.  Bright  Eyes,  while  Mrs.  Two  Charge 
put  up  the  family  domicile. 

He  droned  a  ditty  as  he  bounced  his  offspring  on  his  knee,  and  once, 
when  a  couple  of  white  women  stopped  to  look  at  the  pretty  child,  tlie 
rest  of  the  bucks  joined  in  the  lullaby  to  show  that  they  were  willing  to 
take  care  of  the  baby  while  the  women  did  the  work. 

In  marked  contrast  to  most  features  of  the  Indian  display  were  four 
Indian  students  at  the  Indian  school  building  at  the  world's  fair  during 
the  entire  term.  They  were  Lizzie  Antone  of  Sapulpa,  I.  T.,  an  Oneida ; 
Ona  Dodson  of  Bartelsville,  I.  T.,  a  Cherokee;  Etta  Loafman  of  South 
McAlester,  I.  T.,  a  Chippewa,  and  Helen  Mitchell  of  South  McAlester,  a 
Cherokee. 

Education  and  association  have  left  them  little  appearance  of  the 
tribes  which  they  represent,  but  they  are  American  Indian  ?2iaidens,  and 
proud  of  their  ancestry. 

They  assisted  under  the  direction  of  Mrs.  McCowan,  in  getting  the 
interior  of  the  Indian  school  building  ready  for  world's  fair  guests. 

All  four  are  taking  courses  of  instruction  at  the  Chilocco  institution, 
and  all  will  graduate  shortly.  They  are  bright  and  attractive  girls,  who 
have  been  won  away  from  almost  everything  tribal  except  tribal  pride. 

They  were  at  the  building  until  the  close  of  the  fair,  and  continued 
their  studies  during  the  summer,  proving  both  their  natural  aptitude  for 
intellectual  improvement  and  their  adaptability  to  the  more  restricted 
ways  of  modern  society.  In  themselves  they  were  a  study  around  which 
hovered  not  a  few  elements  of  the  pathetic. 


350  Indians  at  the  Fair 


THE    PEIMAL.    instinct    COMMON    TO    BOTH    EACES. 

It  is  simply  a  question  of  keeping  such  representatives  of  the  race 
away  from  their  own  people  a  sufficient  length  of  time  to  wean  them  from 
their  native  instincts,  upon  which  determines  whether  the  results  of  such 
education  shall  be  permanent  or  otherwise.  How  strong  that  instinct  is, 
to  return  to  the  primitive  life  of  the  plain  and  the  forest,  has  been 
demonstrated  upon  more  than  one  occasion. 

In  fact,  the  instinct  is  sometimes  strong  in  the  nature  of  the  white 
man  who  has  passed  all  his  days  amid  scenes  of  complex  society.  Espe- 
cially if  he  has  lived  the  strenuous  life  of  a  bustling,  nerve-wearing  city, 
there  comes  an  almost  irresistible  longing  now  and  then  to  leave  the 
hurly-burly  of  it  all  far  behind  and  be  alone  with  nature  and  natural 
life.  If  it  were  not  that  it  is  becoming  more  and  more  the  custom  to 
snatch  a  season  of  this  change  away  from  the  social,  business  and  pro- 
fessional cares  of  the  white  man's  world,  there  is  no  telling  how  many 
mysterious  withdrawals  into  the  wilds  of  the  forest  and  the  expanses 
of  the  plains  would  be  recorded. 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 
E.SKIMOS    AT    THE,    FAIF^ 

perfect  Illusion  of  Arctic  Life — Eskimos  Alone  Enjoy  the  Snow — The  Columbian  Expo- 
sition Eskimo  Baby — North  and  South  Fall  Out  Over  Red  Peppers — ^Ancient  Alas- 
kan History  in  Totem  Poles — Women  Managers  of  Alaskan  Exhibits — How  Mrs. 
Ongman  Collected  Her  Exhibit — Saved  by  Being  Buried  in  the  Snow — All  Day  Get- 
ting Breakfast — Superstitions  of  Alaskan  Eskimos — ^No  Married  Woman  Can  Sell 
a  Doll — Must  Have  Exact  Change  or  Article  Rectuired — ^Eskimo  Women  Jealous  of 
White  Women — Die  Young,  Mostly  of  Consumption. 

LOSELY  allied  witli  the  American    Indian  of  the  plains  is  the 
Eskimo    from    the    northland,  or    as    some    authorities    declare, 
' '  the  Esquimaux  from  the  dreary  land  of  ice  and  snaux. ' ' 

Like  every  one  else  the  Eskimo  was  at  the  exposition— some  about 
the  Alaskan  building  in  the  Anthropological  quarters  and  others  on  the 
Pike.  There  the  Eskimo  was  to  be  seen  in  his  environment  of  icebergs 
and  polar  landscape,  living  in  huts  of  reindeer  skin  about  a  great  lake  of 
real  water  on  which  the  native  canoes  darted,  plied  by  long-handled  oars. 
The  famous  Alaskan  sledge  dogs  drew  the  visitor  through  an  ice  colon- 
nade containing  twenty  tons  of  Arctic  curiosities.  The  combat  between 
Eskimo  and  Polar  bears  brought  the  exhibition  to  a  thrilling  climax. 

PERFECT  ILLUSION  OF  ARCTIC  LIFE. 

The  attention  of  the  Piker  was  arrested  and  directed  to  this  show 
by  the  papier-mache  bergs  frowning  above  the  Pike.  On  the  ledges 
of  glaciers  above,  a  pack  of  Alaskan  dogs  were  to  be  seen  dragging  a 
heavily-weighted  sledge.  The  scene  recalled  the  recent  days  of  Alaskan 
gold  fever,  and  the  methods  of  transportation  used  by  the  American 
gold  hunter  to  penetrate  the  frozen  north,  in  search  of  the  yellow  treas- 
ure. The  Piker  passed  under  an  icy  arch  to  the  interior  of  the  show. 
Before  him  was  a  perfect  illusion  of  Arctic  life.  Native  men,  women 
and  children,  all  engaged  in  their  pursuits  of  hunting  and  preparing 
food  for  their  long  hibernation  when  the  Arctic  night  falls.  The  visitor 
was  treated  to  a  beautiful  display  of  the  northern  aurora  as  he  passed 

351 


352  Eskimos  at  the  Fair 

from  the  Ice  Colonnade  beneath  the  glacier  masses  at  the  rear  of  the 
show. 

Native  sports,  marriage  ceremonies,  and  burial  rites  added  to  the  in- 
terest. On  the  lake  an  exciting  seal  hunt  was  carried  on.  One  of  the 
most  interesting  features  was  the  Klondike  mining  camp,  where  gold 
tailings  mixed  with  gravel,  were  washed  out  by  experienced  miners. 

ESKIMOS   ALONE  ENJOY   THE   SNOW. 

During  the  preliminary  period  before  the  opening  of  the  exposition, 
the  Eskimos  alone,  of  all  the  strange  travelers  gathered  on  the  grounds, 
enjoyed  the  snow  and  cold  weather.  Clothed  in  a  heavy  deerskin  suit 
and  wearing  high  boots  of  the  same  material,  Nancy  Columbo,  the 
Eskimo  child  at  the  world's  fair,  hugely  enjoyed  the  belated  midwinter 
weather.  While  other  persons  on  the  Pike  shivered  and  huddled  about 
little  stoves  to  keep  warm,  Nancy  stood  outside  the  Eskimo  village  and 
pelted  snowballs  at  passersby. 

THE  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION  ESKIMO  BABY. 

Nancy  Columbo  bore  the  same  relation  to  the  Columbian  Exposition 
as  Louisa  Francis  Eihinang,  the  Filipino  baby,  bore  to  the  Louisiana 
Purchase.  Nancy  was  born  in  the  Eskimo  village  at  the  Chicago  fair, 
and  she  was  named  by  Mrs.  Potter  Palmer.  Nancy  is  for  Nancy  Hanks, 
the  mother  of  Abraham  Lincoln,  while  Columbo  is  for  Christopher  Co- 
lumbus. 

Nancy  was  a  participant  at  the  Pan-American  Exposition  at  Buffalo 
and  at  the  Trans-Mississippi  Exposition  in  Omaha.  She  has  all  the 
characteristics  of  an  Eskimo,  but  she  speaks  English  intelligently. 

NOETH  AND  SOUTH  FALL  OUT  OVER  RED  PEPPERS. 

The  chilly  North  and  the  fiery  South  came  together  on  the  Pike  long 
before  the  exposition  opened. 

A  party  of  Eskimos  were  building  their  imitation  eglooks,  or  snow- 
houses,  and  the  chill  wind  that  whistled  up  the  Pike  lent  an  almost 
cheerful  reality  to  the  scene.  At  the  same  time  a  band  of  Indians  from 
the  cliff  dwellings  of  sunn}^  New  Mexico  wandered  down  the  way, 
munching  red  peppers,  a  string  of  which  one  of  them  carried,  to  keep 
up  an  internal  glow. 

As  they  came  opposite  the  Eskimos  they  stopped  to  gaze  and  pity. 


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Eskimos  at  the  Faie  361 

One  of  the  northmen  was  up  to  his  waist  in  a  trench  and  looked  so  cold 
riiat  the  cliff-dweller  handed  him  the  string  of  peppers,  himself  pulling 
one  off  and  taking  a  warm  bite.  The  peppers  looked  inviting  and  the 
Eskimo  wrenched  one  from  the  string  and  began  to  chew  it  vigorously. 

Suddenly  "the  call  of  the  wild"  echoed  down  the  Pike,  as  the  Eski- 
mo leaped  from  the  trench  and  dashed  for  the  water  bucket.  The  sunny 
southern  Indians  lit  out  for  their  clitf  dwellings,  exuding  warmth  from 
their  red  peppers  as  they  ran  with  the  Eskimo  in  pursuit. 

ANCIENT  ALASKAN  HISTORY  IN  TOTEM  POLES. 

The  ancient  lore  and  history  of  the  Indian  tribes  of  Alaska  for  gen- 
erations back  were  set  up  at  the  world's  fair  for  all  who  run  to  read — 
if  they  could.  Twenty  totem  poles,  brought  from  Alaska,  were  the  books 
in  which,  this  history  was  set  out,  and  the  poles  ornamented  the  two  na- 
tive houses  that  flanked  the  Alaskan  building. 

Totem  poles  always  form  a  striking  sight.  They  are  gaudily  painted 
in  the  rude  coloring  of  native  artists.  The  oldest  Alaskan  inhabitant 
cannot  remember  the  origin  of  these  poles,  but  they  are  believed  to  be  as 
old  as  150  years. 

WOMEN   MANAGERS  OF  AXASKAN   EXHIBITS. 

According  to  Mary  Hart,  manager  of  the  Alaskan  exhibit  and  the 
only  woman  ever  appointed  to  public  office  in  Alaska,  they  are  used  in 
graveyards  for  the  nobility  and  gentry  of  the  country,  the  hollow  space 
in  the  rear  being  used  as  a  receptacle  for  the  ashes  and  bones  of  the 
chiefs  of  the  tribes  and  their  families. 

Mrs.  Hart  was  responsible  for  the  presence  of  a  troop  of  native  danc- 
ers. There  were  twenty-eight  male  dancers,  including  musicians.  Their 
dance  is  wild  and  stirring,  but  graceful,  the  performers  going  through 
alternately  grotesque  and  graceful  contortions  to  the  chanting  and  the 
beating  of  tom-toms  by  the  musicians. 

During  the  performance  the  dancers  wear  masks  of  ermine,  which 
reach  down  the  back  to  their  heels,  the  masks  often  representing  a  great 
money  value.  The  dance  is  given  for  every  event  of  importance  in  the 
lives  of  the  Indians,  and  is  a  gala  affair  with  them. 

Strangely  enough  it  was  a  woman  also  who  had  charge  of  the  Eskimo 
and  Alaskan  display  in  the  Manufactures  building— Mrs.  Ella  Ong- 


362  Eskimos  at  the  Fair 

man,  who  has  been  to  the  northern  limits  of  Alaska,  in  places  where  no 
white  man  has  ever  penetrated,  in  her  work  of  securing  exhibits  for  the 
world's  fair.  To  reach  Point  Barrow,  72  degrees  north,  she  traveled 
for  days  on  dog  sledges  wrapped  in  furs,  in  a  temperature  of  60  degrees 
below  zero.  At  times  the  cold  was  so  intense  that  food  could  not  be 
cooked,  as  it  would  freeze  with  tire  under  it.  One  day  her  strength  failed 
and  the  guide  buried  her  in  the  snow,  where  she  remained  guarded  by  an 
Eskimo  dog  for  10  hours. 

This  interesting  woman  has  given  the  following  account  of  her  ex- 
perience in  the  far  North,  where  she  collected  the  strange  specimens  of 
clothing,  handiwork,  weapons,  gew-gaws  and  odds  and  ends  of  all  kinds 
shown  at  the  fair: 

HOW  MRS.  ONGMAN  COLLECTED  HER  EXHIBIT. 

"I  was  one  of  the  many  who  took  the  Nome  gold  fever.  I  went  there 
in  the  hope  of  being  able  to  make  a  fortune  in  speculation.  I  had  not 
been  there  long  before  I  realized  that  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  do 
anything  in  the  gold  fields,  as  I  was  a  woman  and  could  not  dig  and 
prospect.  The  Eskimos  interested  me  as  a  people.  I  realized  they  were 
diminishing  in  numbers.  People  outside  of  Alaska  do  not  appreciate 
the  fact  that  the  Eskimos  are  rapidly  passing  away  and  that  these  chil- 
dren of  the  frozen  North  will  soon  be  but  a  memory. 

"In  view  of  this  fact  specimens  of  the  Alaskan  Eskimos'  art  and 
handiwork  will  soon  be  gathered  up  for  the  world's  museums  by  profes- 
sional collectors.  Appreciating  the  rareness  of  their  handiwork,  I  de- 
termined upon  collecting  Eskimo  curios,  to  study  their  life,  their  cus- 
toms, acquirements  and  skill  for  an  exhibit  at  the  world's  fair.  I  thought 
it  would  be  a  comparatively  easy  task.  I  established  a  store  in  Nome, 
and  thought  I  could  buy  and  trade  my  merchandise  for  their  curios.  In 
this  I  was  mistaken.  They  did  not  bring  in  the  rare  articles  I  wanted. 
The  spirit  of  adventure  and  that  of  a  curio  hunter  was  strong  within 
me,  so  I  purchased  a  dog  team  and  secured  an  Eskimo  guide  who  could 
speak  a  few  words  of  English,  loaded  my  sledge  with  blue  and  red  calico 
and  chewing  gum  and  set  out  on  a  thorough  curio  hunt.  I  had  no  idea 
of  the  privations  and  hardships  I  would  have  to  endure,  or  I  fear  I 
should  have  never  undertaken  so  perilous  a  task.  But  each  adventure 
seemed  to  make  me  feverish  for  the  next. 

''Point  Barrow  is  located  in  the  extreme  northern  part  of  Alaska. 


Eskimos  at  the  Fair  363 

I  was  informed  by  my  guide  that  it  was  rich  in  curios  and  rare  furs  and 
that  no  white  man  had  ever  been  there.  I  at  once  determined  to  go  to 
Point  Barrow. 

''The  road  houses  between  Point  Hope  and  Point  Barrow  are  few 
and  far  apart.  It  was  very  cold,  so  cold  that  we  had  to  walk.  We  would 
have  frozen  if  we  remained  on  the  sledge.  My  strength  failed  me.  I 
did  not  know  what  to  do.  I  was  afraid  I  would  die.  I  knew  it  was  im- 
possible for  me  to  walk,  and  it  meant  death  by  freezing  if  I  remained 
on  the  sledge. 

SAVED   BY   BEING   BUEIED   IN    THE    SNOW. 

"Then  came  my  first  real  adventure  in  the  Northland.  The  guide 
commanded  me  to  lie  down  and  be  buried  in  the  snow.  I  was  afraid  to 
do  so.  He  said  it  was  my  only  chance  and  that  there  was  no  danger, 
that  he  would  leave  a  dog  with  me.  He  instructed  me  not  to  try  to  raise 
my  arms  as  they  w^ould  freeze. 

"After  a  little  hesitation  I  did  as  the  guide  advised.  I  was  covered 
deep  in  the  snow,  with  a  breathing  hole  leading  to  the  open  air.  For  ten 
hours  I  lay  thus  buried,  far  out  on  a  lonely  waste,  beyond  the  sound  of 
human  voices  and  human  power,  not  a  living  creature  within  miles  and 
miles  save  the  poor  dog.  I  think  I  can  realize  how  it  would  feel  to  be 
buried  alive.  Those  ten  hours  seemed  like  an  eternity  to  me.  I  thought 
the  guide  would  never  come  back  with  help.  When  I  heard  the  sound 
of  voices  it  was  the  sweetest  music  I  ever  heard.  There  is  real  danger  in 
being  buried  in  the  snow.  A  blizzard  might  come  up,  and  the  trail  would 
be  lost.    Then  you  are  done  for  and  they  can't  find  you. 

ALL   DAY    GETTING   BREAKFAST. 

"From  Point  Barrow  I  went  to  Point  Taylor  with  an  Eskimo  wo- 
man. We  were  alone.  The  weather  was  extremely  cold,  60  degrees  be- 
low zero.  It  was  a  quiet  day,  no  wind  at  all.  If  there  had  been  we 
would  have  frozen  to  death.  We  camped  for  breakfast.  We  had  noth- 
ing to  prepare  for  food  except  a  little  meal.  We  built  a  fire  of  seal  oil 
and  willows  to  bake  hot  cakes.  It  took  us  from  7  o'clock  in  the  morning 
until  8  at  night  to  get  our  breakfast.  Both  of  us  were  kept  as  busy  as 
we  could  be.  The  dough  and  grease  would  freeze  over  the  fire.  It  was 
impossible  to  bake  the  cakes.  The  underside  would  simmer  while  the 
top  would  be  frozen  stiff. 


364  Eskimos  at  the  Fair 

'^I  would  visit  the  Eskimo  in  the  igloes.  In  order  to  get  their  wares 
it  was  necessary  for  me  to  remain  until  they  were  finished.  Their  igloes 
or  houses  are  filthy  and  vile  smelling.  It  required  patience  to  sit  and 
wait  and  wait  with  no  one  to  talk  to.  All  I  had  to  eat  on  these  trips  was 
seal  oil  and  tomcod ;  no  coffee  or  tea  to  drink ;  nothing  but  seal  oil.  Seal 
oil  is  used  for  all  purposes  by  the  Eskimo.  It  is  their  drink,  meat,  fuel 
and  bath. 

SUPERSTITIONS   OF   ALASKAN    ESKIMOS. 

"The  Alaskan  Eskimos  are  very  superstitious.  There  are  some  things 
you  cannot  buy  from  them  and  if  you  insist  they  become  angry  and  try 
to  kill  you.  There  is  a  superstition  about  the  belt  a  woman  wears  to 
carry  her  child.  These  belts  are  very  curious,  and  it  is  so  seldom  that 
a  white  person  can  ever  get  one  that  I  was  determined  to  secure  one  at 
least.  I  tried  to  buy  from  every  woman  I  met.  They  would  become 
angry  and  say,  'White  woman  mazurak  (bad) ;  me  kill  white  woman.' 

"I  asked  an  Eskimo  man  to  get  me  one.  I  offered  him  a  good  price. 
He  was  drinking  and  stole  his  wife's  belt  and  brought  it  to  me.  I  gave 
him  the  money  and  pretty  soon  a  great  crowd  of  Eskimo  men  and  women 
gathered  around  me  and  demanded  the  belt  and  threatened  to  kill  me. 
They  attacked  me,  and  before  I  could  get  my  revolver  they  had  torn  my 
clothing  nearly  off  me.  I  frightened  them  away  by  shooting  in  the  air. 
The  woman  came  back  and  offered  me  $5  and  some  trinkets  if  I  would 
just  give  her  one  particular  stone  out  of  the  belt.  The  stone  she  wanted 
was  like  a  pearl  in  color  and  about  as  large  as  the  end  of  my  thumb.  I 
gave  her  the  stone,  glad  to  settle  the  matter  so  easily. 

NO   MARRIED  WOMAN   CAN   SELL  A  DOLL. 

"Another  time  I  had  a  very  narrow  escape  from  being  killed  by  an 
Eskimo  man.  His  wife  was  making  me  a  doll  and  she  died  before  the 
doll  was  quite  finished.  I  wanted  him  to  sell  me  the  doll,  as  Eskimo 
dolls  are  very  hard  to  get.  You  cannot  buy  a  doll  from  a  woman  who 
has  children ;  they  think  it  a  sin  for  a  married  woman  to  sell  a  doll.  The 
only  people  allowed  to  sell  dolls  are  married  men  and  women  without 
children. 

' '  I  wanted  the  man  to  sell  me  this  doll,  but  he  would  not.  He  insisted 
upon  me  paying  him  the  amount  I  would  have  had  to  pay  his  wife,  but 
I  could  not  have  the  doll.    I  did  not  want  his  money,  but  I  did  want  the 


Eskimos  at  the  Fair  365 

doll.  He  became  very  angry  and  tried  to  kill  me.  When  an  Eskimo  dies 
all  his  belongings  are  buried  with  him,  and  you  cannot  get  them  to  let 
you  have  anything  at  any  price. 

MUST  HAVE  EXACT  CHANGE  OR  ARTICLE  REQUIRED. 

'' Unless  you  have  the  exact  change,  or  the  article  they  want  to  bar- 
ter for  their  wares,  you  cannot  buy  from  them  at  any  price.  If  they 
have  something  for  sale  for  which  they  ask  50  cents,  and  you  have  ever 
so  much  money,  but  not  the  exact  change,  and  you  offer  them  twice  what 
they  ask,  they  pick  up  their  wares  and  walk  out  and  say,  'No  good,  no 
got  money,  good-by.'  Or  if  they  want  calico  or  chewing  gum  and  you 
offer  them  money  they  won't  sell  to  you.  If  they  ask  for  calico,  they 
want  calico  and  nothing  else  will  do ;  if  you  try  to  force  them  to  sell  to 
you,  they  become  angry  and  try  to  kill  you.  When  you  haven't  calico 
in  stock,  they  say,  'No  good,  no  savee  calico,  no  smart  white  man.' 

"If  you  have  plenty  of  red  and  blue  calico,  chewing  gum  and  50-cent 
pieces  you  can  find  plenty  of  customers  among  the  Eskimos.  They  are 
very  partial  to  red  calico,  but  have  no  earthly  use  for  silk  or  wool. 

"They  are  of  rather  a  generous  disposition,  but  they  are  very  sus- 
picious of  the  white  man,  and  if  they  find  they  have  been  deceived  by 
a  white,  it  is  well  for  the  latter  to  be  on  his  or  her  guard. 

ESKIMO  WOMEN  JEALOUS  OF  WHITE  WOMEN. 

"The  Eskimo  women  are  very  jealous  of  the  white  women  and  do 
not  allow  the  latter  to  talk  and  laugh  with  the  Eskimo  men.  I  learned 
this  when  I  was  out  on  a  collecting  trip  away  in  the  interior  of  Alaska. 
I  was  laughing  and  talking  to  some  of  the  men,  trying  to  buy  some 
carved  ivory,  when  a  number  of  women  made  a  rush  at  me  and  had  it 
not  been  for  the  timely  assistance  of  the  guide  and  one  Eskimo  man  who 
could  speak  a  few  words  of  English,  they  would  have  handled  me 
roughly. 

DIE  YOUNG,  MOSTLY  OF  CONSUMPTION. 

' '  They  are  rapidly  dying  out.  It  will  only  be  a  short  time  when  they 
will  be  but  a  memory.  They  easily  contract  consumption.  In  all  my 
travels  among  them  I  only  met  five  over  the  age  of  40.  They  die  very 
young. 

"I  have  made  a  large  and  valuable  collection,  but  not  for  all  the  gold 


366  Eskimos  at  the  Fair 

in  Alaska  would  I  again  undergo  the  privations,  hardships  and  dangers 
I  did.  It  makes  me  shudder  to  think  of  it  now  and  I  wonder  how  I  ever 
endured  it.  At  the  time  it  did  not  seem  so  terrible,  but  now  it  looks  like 
a  horrible  dream. 

*'I  have  seen  all  I  care  to  of  Alaska  and  have  studied  the  poor  chil- 
dren of  the  North  until  I  know  all  the  horrors  of  their  life.  They  have 
few  joys. 

i  i  There  is  one  thing  I  admire  in  the  mothers.  They  never  leave  their 
children;  if  they  work  they  carry  them  on  their  backs;  if  they  dance 
the  baby  is  still  strapped  to  the  mother 's  back,  and  if  the  mother  is  dying 
and  has  no  sister  to  take  care  of  the  baby,  she  kills  it.  She  will  not  even 
trust  it  to  her  husband." 

It  is  evident  from  Mrs.  Ongman's  graphic  tale  that  the  exhibit 
which  she  presented  to  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  represents 
a  terrible  experience  in  her  life.  There  is  probably  no  other  exhibit 
in  the  world's  fair  which  is  more  personal  in  its  character,  and  cer- 
tainly none  which  is  such  a  speaking  proof  of  woman's  pluck,  endur- 
ance and  ingenuity.  As  is  natural,  she  has  returned  to  the  civilization 
of  her  country  filled  with  a  feminine  pity  at  the  condition  of  the  semi- 
savages  of  the  North,  with  whom  she  lived  for  so  many  weary  months, 
and  is  especially  touched  at  the  hopeless  condition  of  the  Eskimo 
children. 


CHAPTER.    XXV. 
JAPAN    AT    THE,    EXPOSITION 

Fair  Japan  on  the  Pike — Gigantic  and  Exquisite  Main  Gateway — Native  Stores,  Tea 
Houses  and  Geisha  Girls — Japanese  Newspaper  Published  on  the  Grounds — First 
Foreign  Country  to  Complete  Its  Exhibits — Seven  Acres  of  Space  Occupied — ^Mi- 
kado, Nobles  and  Government  Participate — Japanese  Fine  Arts  Section — A  Year's 
Time  Spent  on  Six-Inch  Vase — The  Famous  Cloisonne  Ware — The  Wireless  and 
Wired  Varieties — Lion  and  Lioness  Done  in  Malleable  Iron— Delicate  Art  of  Ham- 
mering— Tigers  Attacking  an  Elephant — The  Unique  Monkey  Vase — Colossal  Bronze 
Censer — Gate  to  the  Temple  of  Japan  Reproduced. 

APAN  made  a  brave  showing  at  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposi- 
tion. Neither  the  physical  or  financial  drains  of  war  interfered 
with  her  fair  plans,  which  were  extensive  in  all  departments.  In  each 
the  Land  of  the  Rising  Sun  carried  off  many  laurels. 

FAIR  JAPAN  OlSr  THE  PIKE. 

''Fair  Japan"  was  the  name  of  her  marvelous  display  on  the  Pike. 
It  was  a  picture  of  the  real  Japan.  Fragile  bits  of  landscaping  were 
taken  from  the  Imperial  Gardens  of  the  Mikado.  Very  old  trees  trans- 
planted from  Japan  to  the  exposition  were  trained  by  the  gardener  to 
twist  grotesquely  into  shapes  of  man  and  beast.  The  flowers  of  the 
Island  Kingdom  were  seen  growing  in  these  stretches  of  nature.  La- 
goons meandered  through  the  scene,  cascades  leapt  over  rocks,  ancient 
historic  bridges  and  lanterns  spanned  the  water,  and  ornamental  and 
practical  boats,  imported  from  Japan,  plied  the  water  courses. 

The  architecture  was  distinctively  Japanese,  done  by  native  carpen- 
ters, who  build  without  the  use  of  a  nail. 

GIGANTIC   AND  EXQUISITE    MAIN   GATEWAY. 

The  main  entrance  to  Japan  was  a  replica  of  the  exquisite  gateway 
to  the  Bio  of  leyasu  at  Nikko,  known  as  Yoney  Mon.  This  gigantic 
gateway  rose  one  hundred  feet  above  the  Pike.  The  original  was  built 
three  centuries  ago  by  lenitsu,  ruler  of  Japan,  as  a  gateway  to  the  mor- 

367 


368  Japan  at  the  Exposition 

tuary  chaj^el  of  leyasu,  his  grandfather  at  Nikko,  the  Mecca  of  art  in 
Japan.  Hence  the  Japanese  proverb,  ''Until  you  have  seen  Nikko  you 
must  not  say  Kekko  (beautiful)."  It  was  decorated  with  gold  and 
lacquer,  and  the  exquisite  hand  carvings  are  the  work  of  the  most  famous 
artists  of  the  period.  It  could  not  be  duplicated  now  in  the  same  mate- 
rials for  millions  of  dollars. 

The  original  of  the  gateway  to  the  Temple  of  Nio  Mon,  three  cen- 
turies old,  was  brought  from  Japan  as  a  feature  of  the  display.  It  is 
embellished  with  original  gold  lacquer,  inlaid  silver  and  wood  carvings. 
The  structure  is  value  at  $100,000. 

NATIVE   STOKES,  TEA  HOUSES  AND  GEISHA   GIKLS. 

A  street  of  Asakusa  was  filled  with  forty  native  stores,  crowded  by 
porcelain  pottery  workers,  silk  rug  weavers,  ivory  carvers,  jewelers, 
painters,  fan  makers,  and  candy  venders.  Troops  of  street  acrobats 
gave  unique  performances  in  the  narrow  ways. 

In  tea  houses,  hanging  on  the  borders  of  the  lake,  forty  genuine 
Geisha  girls  performed  their  graceful  dances,  and  sang,  while  native 
Japanese  girls  served  tea.  Other  features  of  the  amusement,  new  to 
this  country,  were  the  rag-making  girls  of  Japan,  ranging  from  ten  to 
fifteen  years  old ;  roosters  with  tails  twenty-five  feet  long ;  Japanese  for- 
tune tellers,  who  weave  a  mystic  spell  with  curious  metal  instruments, 
and  the  man  who  carves  images  from  a  single  bean  of  rice.  Japanese 
gold  fishes  and  dogs,  with  a  hundred  different  kinds  of  small  fishes  made 
an  interesting  display.  A  royal  dwelling  introduced  the  jDolite  manners 
of  the  caste.  A  Japanese  military  band  filled  the  entertainment  vdth 
strange  music.  Jinrikishaws,  propelled  by  natives,  furnished  novel 
transportation,  similar  to  that  found  in  Japan. 

JAPANESE  NEWSPAPEK  PUBLISHED  ON  THE  GEOUNDS. 

Publication  of  a  Japanese  newspaper  on  the  world's  fair  grounds 
attested  the  enterprise  of  the  energetic  little  Yankees  of  the  Orient.  The 
paper  consisted  of  sixteen  pages  and  4,000  copies  were  sent  to  Japan 
every  week.  The  plant  occupied  space  in  the  Palace  of  Liberal  Arts 
and  nine  Japanese  reporters  ' '  did ' '  the  exposition.  The  paper  appeared 
every  Saturday. 


Japan  at  the  Exposition  369 


FIRST  FOREIGN  COUNTRY  TO  COMPLETE  ITS  EXHIBITS. 

In  the  Palace  of  Varied  Industries  the  Japanese  government  had 
a  reservation  of  50,320  square  feet.  Every  square  foot  of  this  space 
was  filled  according  to  the  original  plans  of  the  commission. 

Japan  had  the  distinction  of  being  the  first  foreign  country  to  com- 
plete its  exhibit  in  any  of  the  Palaces.  In  the  other  Palaces  where  the 
Japanese  were  represented  rapid  progress  was  made  in  installing  exhibits, 
and  in  advance  of  all  other  nations  every  article  sent  by  that  country 
was  in  place  at  the  world's  fair  and  ready  for  inspection. 

Although  the  war  in  the  Orient  caused  Russia  to  withdraw  its  plans 
in  regard  to  exhibiting  at  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition,  Japan 
was  undaunted  and  the  plans  for  its  exhibit  were  carried  on  as  though 
peace  and  serenity  reigned  in  the  Orient. 

No  foreign  country  had  a  better  representation  at  the  Universal  Ex- 
position than  Japan.  Besides  the  reservation  of  50,320  square  feet  in 
the  Palace  of  Varied  Industries,  big  exhibits  were  shown  in  many  other 
buildings. 

SEVEN  ACRES  OF  SPACE  OCCUPIED. 

The  total  amount  of  space  occupied  by  Japan  at  the  world's  fair  was 
297,764  square  feet,  or  about  seven  acres.  It  was  distributed  as  follows : 
Official  Japanese  reservation,  175,000  square  feet ;  Varied  Industries,  50,- 
328  square  feet;  Manufactures,  29,988  square  feet;  Transportation,  14,- 
904  square  feet ;  Agriculture,  7,452  square  feet ;  Fine  Arts,  6,012  square 
feet;  Mines  and  Metallurgy,  4,968  square  feet;  Education,  2,988  square 
feet;  Electricity,  1,155  square  feet;  Forestry,  Fish  and  Game,  4,960 
square  feet. 

Total  in  square  feet,  297,764  (about  seven  acres). 

Only  by  a  visit  to  Japan,  and  then  by  the  expenditure  of  a  large 
amount  of  money,  could  one  gain  as  comprehensive  a  knowledge  of 
Japanese  art  and  workmanship  as  one  was  enabled  to  derive  by  a  day  at 
the  world's  fair. 

The  Japanese  exhibit  was  most  extensive  and  there  were  examples 
in  art  and  workmanship  that  bordered  on  the  marvelous.  It  was  by  far 
the  most  unique  exhibit  of  any  foreign  country,  and  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting. 

The  galleries  and  shops  and  palaces  of  Japan  had  been  rummaged 


370  Japan  at  the  Exposition 

for  this  exhibit.  The  leading  artisans  of  the  empire  contributed  and 
the  great  workers  in  brass,  bronze,  copper,  silk,  wood,  straw  and  por- 
celain submitted  the  examples  of  their  art  to  the  view  of  the  world. 

mikado,  nobles  and  goveenment  paeticipate. 

The  government  did  its  full  share  in  this  contribution,  and  the  Mika- 
do, too,  and  the  nobles  of  Japan  sent  some  of  their  private  collection  to 
enhance  the  beauty  of  the  exhibit,  which,  roughly  speaking,  was  esti- 
mated to  be  worth  fully  $1,000,000. 

The  bulk  of  the  Japanese  exhibit  was  placed  in  the  Varied  Industries 
building,  where  the  .Japs  had  an  immense  space  with  a  typical  Japanese 
gateway,  which  would  be  called  a  house  in  the  United  States.  In  the 
educational  building  they  had  another  exhibit  and  a  third  in  the  Manu- 
factures building,  being  also  represented  in  the  Departments  of  Forestry 
and  of  Fish. 

However,  it  was  in  the  Varied  Industries  building  that  one  could 
gain  the  best  idea  of  the  high  art  of  the  Japanese  workers  in  bronzes, 
coppers  and  kindred  metals. 

JAPANESE  FINE  AETS  SECTION. 

In  the  Japanese  Fine  Arts  section  beside  a  huge  vase,  which  was 
very  beautiful  in  its  way,  could  be  seen  a  tiny  black  flower  vessel,  deco- 
rated at  its  neck  in  faintly  tinted  and  gold  filagree  designs.  The  big, 
the  gorgeous  one,  in  terms  of  cash,  was  worth  about  $200 ;  the  little,  the 
relatively  inconspicuous  one,  was  worth  several  thousand  dollars.  A 
Jap's  work  should  always  be  studied  under  the  microscope. 

Japan  is  a  wonderful  country,  as  everybody  observes  when  he  tries 
to  exhaust  the  subject  in  a  sentence.  A  partial  appreciation  of  even  so 
small  a  thing  as  the  little  vase  will  show  that  Japan  is  remarkable,  not 
wholly  because  of  her  fighting  ability. 

A  YEAe's  time  spent  on  six-inch  VASE. 

If  you  stop  and  study  the  vase  all  that  represents  its  value  will  be- 
come apparent.  It  is  the  loving  labor  of  one  Japanese  artist,  who  de- 
voted a  year's  constant  application  to  the  single  six-inch  ornament,  and 
nobody  on  earth,  Jap  or  Chinaman  or  Frenchman  or  American,  could 
duplicate  it.  The  outlines  of  the  design  are  not  gilt  lines  put  in  with 
the  brush,  nor  are  they  printed  in  by  machine ;  they  are  in  their  intricate 


Japan  at  the  Exposition  371 

entirety,  gold  wires,  thinner  than  the  thinnest  thread,  carefully  curved 
into  the  desired  forms.  So  infinitely  small  is  the  scale  that  the  nicety 
of  touch  required  to  thus  manipulate  the  strands  of  gold  is  staggering  to 
comprehend. 

The  gold  outlines  having  been  thus  prepared  upon  the  silver  body 
of  the  vase,  the  artist  laid  in  his  colors,  choosing  the  palest  of  Nature's 
shades  to  indicate  his  foliage  or  his  bird  plumage.  Then  was  lacquering 
done— black  being  the  body  color  used— and  the  final  polish  put  on.  The 
enameling  has  the  pitchiness  of  agate,  while  from  it  gleams  the  coloring 
and  multitudinous  strands  of  gold. 

The  art'  craftsman  who  produced  this  little  work  labored  himself  over 
every  process,  supplying  both  the  fine  design  and  the  viligant  care  needed 
in  ' '  burning  in ' '  the  enamel.  He  did  not  make  many  of  the  kind  at  once 
for  commercial  consumption,  but  he  concentrated  upon  the  single  flower 
vessel.  That  was  his  year's  work.  That  was  his  purpose  of  living  and 
of  working.  And  probably  when  he  "closed  up  shop"  to  go  to  fight 
Kussia,  he  put  himself  to  warfare  with  an  equal  devotion. 

THE  FAMOUS  CLOISONNE  WAEE. 

The  vase,  of  course,  is  of  the  famous  cloisonne  work.  In  the  misty 
past,  the  beginnings  of  the  cloisonne  art  in  Japan  were  imported  from 
China.  But  its  development  has  been  purely  Japanese,  and  the  produc- 
tion of  the  valued  ware  has  been  followed  in  particular  families,  secrets 
appertaining  to  the  manufacture  being  handed  down  through  genera- 
tions. This  is  true  up  to  the  present  day.  The  work  is  done  by  in- 
dividuals, who  form  a  limited  circle  unto  themselves,  and  whose  capacity 
of  production  necessarily  is  limited. 

Mr.  Shugio,  the  Japanese  Art  Commissioner,  declared  that  by  far 
the  major  portion  of  the  so-called  cloisonne  which  finds  its  way  into  the 
AVestern  market  is  merely  imitation,  more  or  less  clever,  of  the  genuine 
article.  And  certainly,  after  studying  the  examples  in  the  two  cases 
devoted  to  cloisonne,  they  show  a  workmanship  far  finer  than  it  has 
been  the  pleasure  of  most  art  lovers  to  have  seen  before. 

The  number  of  the  articles  exhibited  was  not  too  large  to  confuse, 
and  yet  enough  to  supply  variety.  The  cloisonne  objects  were  divided 
into  four  classes,  each  of  which  involves  a  different  process  of  produc- 
tion. They  may  be  called  those  with  a  wire  foundation,  those  with  a 
wire  design,  the  miniatures  and  the  wholly  wireless. 


372  Japan  at  the  Exposition 


THE   WIEELESS  AND   WIRED  VAEIETIES. 

In  one  case  were  displayed  two  large  vases,  a  pair,  each  easily  four 
feet  in  height.  These  were  of  the  wholly  wireless.  The  elaborately  done 
designs  upon  them  were  painted  upon  the  metal  body  of  the  vase.  The 
greater  surfaces  show  to  better  advantage  the  transparently  clear  color- 
ing of  the  creamy  tints,  and  give  better  display  to  the  painting  than  is 
possible  with  the  smaller  vases. 

The  objects  characterized  by  the  ^'wire  foundation"  displayed  in  a 
superlative  degree  the  persistent  effort  which  a  Japanese  will  expend 
wpon  one  ornament.  Many  wire  strands  either  of  gold  or  silver  are  care- 
fully arranged  side  by  side— thousands  of  them. 

Upon  this  as  a  base  are  wrought  the  special  designs,  and  over  all  is 
the  absolutely  transparent  enamel.  Frequently,  the  various  expedients 
for  beautifying  will  be  expended  upon  one  piece.  A  section  will  be  done 
in  the  wiring,  another  design  will  be  done  by  carving  into  the  silver  body 
of  the  vase,  and  so  on. 

LION    AND   LIONESS  DONE   IN    MALLEABLE   lEON". 

Near  the  cloisonne  exhibit  was  a  metal  representation  of  a  lion  and 
lioness.  Each  the  size  of  a  large  dog,  and  the  pair  being  shown  rest- 
ing together  in  a  strikingly  natural  manner,  your  impression  at  once 
would  be  that  the  piece  is  molded  from  a  clay  model,  done  in  the  original 
by  the  method  usually  known  to  the  sculptor.  Not  so.  That  lion  and 
lioness  were  shaped  from  a  mere  thin  sheet  of  malleable  iron,  and  the 
artist's  sole  instrument  was  a  hammer. 

Here,  again,  months  of  labor  are  involved.  This  hammer  sculptor 
absolutely  reversed  the  usual  order.  It  is  as  if  he  considered  his  lion 
turned  inside  out.  By  deft  use  of  his  hammer  he  shaped  the  forms 
from  the  inside.  Then,  as  the  general  modeling  was  developed,  he  turned 
his  attention  to  the  detail,  working  both  from  the  outside  and  inside, 
dinting  his  iron  carefully  as  he  came  to  the  representation  of  the  more 
delicate  parts  of  the  work — the  head,  the  exact  anatomy. 

It  may  be  said  that  lions  done  in  a  manner  requiring  much  less  of 
labor  and  of  time  would  serve  the  artistic  purpose  just  as  well.  A  faith- 
ful bronze  of  the  king  of  beasts  can  be  made  from  the  model  of  clay, 
as  prepared  by  a  Western  artist  whose  skill  is  sufficient.  But  this  fact  does 


Japan  at  the  Exposition  373 

not  diminish  anything  of  the  marvelous  quality  which  belongs  to  that  lion 
made  with  a  hammer  from  sheet  iron. 

delicate  aet  op  hammeeing. 

The  art  of  hammering  is  carried  into  some  examples  of  the  cloisonne. 
Upon  a  few  of  the  latter  objects  appear  raised  designs  of  leaves  or  flow- 
ers. The  outlines  are  first  traced  upon  the  outer  surface  of  the  vase  or 
ornamental  receptacle,  and  the  raised  form  then  is  secured  by  hammer- 
ing by  hand  from  the  inside.  If  it  be  a  leaf  which  is  pictured,  the  very 
slight  curve  of  it  is  obtained  by  the  delicate  use  of  the  mere  tool  of  car- 
pentry. The  effect  of  the  stem  and  of  the  fine  traceries  in  leaves  is  se- 
cured by  means  of  silver  or  gold  wires  which  are  introduced.  Then  the 
true  coloring  is  painted  in,  and,  finally,  the  lacquering  is  put  on  over  the 
whole. 

Yes,  the  Japs  are  a  wonderful  people,  and,  at  peace  or  at  war,  at  the 
world's  fair  or  at  home,  they  have  been  written  about  over  and  over 
again.  But,  somehow,  always  there  is  something  more  to  be  said.  If  it 
is  not  a  vase,  it  is  a  fan;  if  not  a  fan,  it  is  the  silk;  and  if  neither,  it  is 
the  quaint  ways  and  sharp  cleverness  of  the  nervous  little  fellows  them- 
selves. 

tigers  attacking  an  elephant. 

Their  ideas  of  art  are  radically  different  from  those  of  any  other  na- 
tionality, and  for  this  reason  their  exhibit  had  a  distinctive  tone  that 
could  not  be  seen  elsewhere. 

One  of  the  bronzes  shown  from  Tokyo  was  of  two  ferocious  tigers 
attacking  an  elephant. 

The  elephant  was  plunging  ahead,  with  his  head  down  and  his  trunk 
is  wrapped  around  one  of  the  tigers  which  has  sprung  upon  his  shoulder. 

The  other  tiger  is  on  his  side,  with  its  front  paws  digging  into  his 
back.  The  strength  of  this  work  is  marvelous.  The  elephant  shows  his 
desperate  plight  in  his  movement,  his  eyes  are  starting  and  vicious,  his 
tail  straight  out,  and  he  shows  that  every  bone  and  nerve  and  cord  in  his 
great  bulk  is  strained  in  an  effort  to  rid  himself  of  the  tigers. 

The  latter  show  in  their  gleaming  eyes  and  taut  bodies  their  determi- 
nation to  hold  the  giant  brute  as  their  prey. 

The  detail  is  worked  out  with  wonderful  precision.  For  instance, 
one  sees  where  the  claws  of  the  tigers  have  scratched  the  tough  hide, 


374  Japan  at  the  Exposition 

where  the  hide  is  drawn  up  by  the  deep-sunk  claws,  and  where  the  blood 
has  started  from  the  doomed  elephant. 

The  trunk  that  is  wrapped  around  the  body  of  the  tiger  is  strained 
in  a  fearful  effort  to  wrest  the  animal  away  or  to  crush  out  its  life,  and 
the  tiger  shows  the  pain  that  caused  it. 

THE  UNIQUE  MONKEY  VASE. 

The  most  unique  vase,  perhaps,  in  the  exhibit,  was  termed  the  ''mon- 
key vase"  by  the  attendants.  It  was  another  bit  of  purely  ornamental 
work,  and  took  its  name  because  there  were  2,600  miniature  monkeys 
placed  upon  it. 

The  vase  was  of  porcelain  of  the  finest  make.  Each  monkey,  about 
an  inch  long,  was  made  separately,  with  its  own  position  and  facial  ex- 
pression, and  each  had  been  placed  upon  the  vase.  They  were  grouped 
together  in,  at  first  glance,  an  indistinguishable  mass,  but  closer  scrutiny 
revealed  that  each  is  complete  and  has  a  relative  importance  to  the  one 
with  it. 

The  vase  was  from  the  Imperial  palace  and  of  the  most  exquisite 
workmanship.  The  years  of  careful  Vv^ork  that  it  must  have  required  to 
make,  the  patience  necessary  of  the  workman  in  making  each  animal 
and  placing  it  on  the  vase,  impresses  one  with  the  belief  that  Job  must 
have  been  a  Japanese. 

COLOSSAL  BRONZE   CENSER,   WONDERFULLY  ORNAMENTED. 

There  was  one  bronze  censer  exhibited  that  stood  more  than  eight 
feet  in  height.  The  average  man  standing  by  its  side  seemed  like  a 
dwarf.  For  ornamentation,  and  careful  workmanship,  it  ranked  superior 
probably  to  anything  of  the  kind  ever  exhibited. 

On  the  other  side  was  a  dragon  reaching  up  toward  the  figure  of  the 
priestess  at  the  top.  On  its  face  were  depicted  three  Japanese  priests 
teaching  the  religion  of  Buddha,  while  the  upper  section  was  held  on  the 
shoulders  of  four  stalwart  Japanese  giants,  standing  upon  the  ground. 

The  whole  was  of  exquisite  workmanship,  the  designs  in  flowers  being 
exact,  the  dragons  showing  great  power.  The  latter  represent  Evil,  by 
the  way,  and  they  are  unable  to  reach  the  priestess  or  to  work  evil,  in 
other  words,  upon  the  righteous. 

It  was  of  the  old  style,  that  is,  in  the  workmanship  of  the  early  ages 
of  Japan,  as,  indeed,  were  most  of  the  bronzes  shown. 


Japan  at  the  Exposition  375 

gate  to  the  temple  of  japan  repeoduced. 

It  might  be  said,  tliat  if  there  had  been  no  other  exhibitors  in  the 
Palace  of  Varied  Industries,  this  magnificent  showing  of  the  Japanese 
government  would  have  made  a  visit  to  it  well  worth  while. 

Looking  from  the  main  entrance  of  the  exhibit,  an  imposing  repro- 
duction of  the  gate  of  the  Temple  of  Japan,  one  saw  in  every  direction 
vases,  pictures,  carved-wood  pieces,  burnt  pottery,  unique  paintings, 
gorgeous  hand-painted  curtains,  ornaments  done  in  gold  lacquer,  clever- 
ly constructed  shell  pieces,  remarkably  executed  designs  in  shell,  woods 
and  minerals,  and,  in  fact,  a  thousand  of  the  richest  specimens  of  every- 
thing included  in  the  higher  arts  of  the  industrious  Japanese. 

Aside  from  their  newspajDer,  the  Japs  established  a  bank,  at  St.  Louis, 
and  a  colonization  office  through  which  arrangements  were  made  for 
extensive  colonization  in  the  Southwest  and  wholesale  operations  in  rice 
growing. 

JAPANESE   BANKER  AT   ST.  LOUIS. 

I.  Matsumura,  for  more  than  five  years  head  of  the  accounting 
department  of  the  Yokohama  Bank's  branch  in  New  York,  was  dele- 
gated to  remain  in  St.  Louis  and  look  after  the  interests  of  his  coun- 
trymen who  have  dealings  with  his  institution  until  the  fair  closed. 

Mr.  Matsumura  had  an  office  with  the  Merchants-Laclede  National 
Bank  and  acted  for  that  institution  in  the  transaction  of  business  with 
Japanese  clients.  Many  of  the  Japanese  in  St.  Louis  were  unable  to 
express  themselves  in  English,  and  Mr.  Matsumura 's  service  in  this 
respect  was  invaluable. 

The  institution  with  which  Mr.  Matsumura  is  connected  is  known 
as  the  Yokohama  Specie  Bank  Limited,  and  has  fifteen  offices  through- 
out the  world,  one  in  New  York  City,  where  Mr.  Matsumura  was  head 
of  the  accounting  department,  and  one  in  San  Francisco. 

While  Mr.  Matsumura  has  in  many  ways  adopted  the  customs  of 
this  country,  in  making  calculations  he  still  uses  the  ancient  Chinese 
device  used  in  Japan  known  as  the  '^soloban." 

ORIENTAL  CALCULATING  DEVICE. 

The  soloban  consists  of  buttons  on  wires  fastened  in  a  rectilinear 
case.    The  reason  for  Mr.  Matsumura  continuing  the  use  of  this  tool 


376  Japan  at  the  Exposition 

of  his  trade  is  tliat  he  can  make  estimates  upon  it  far  more  quickly 
than  the  most  skilled  accountant  can  with  pencil  and  paper.  Problems 
in  addition,  subtraction,  multiplication  and  division,  involving  many 
figures,  were  clicked  off  by  Mr.  Matsumura  with  almost  incredible 
rapidity  on  the  soloban,  affording  an  odd  sight  in  a  modern  banking 
institution.  The  same  calculating  instrument  can  be  found  in  the  hands 
of  most  Chinese  laundrymen. 

Mr.  Matsumura  was  the  first  Oriental  whose  services  were  deemed 
essential  by  St.  Louis  financial  institutions.  The  large  deposits  made 
by  foreign  Governments  and  citizens  from  other  climes,  to  establish 
exhibits  at  the  fair,  resulted  in  the  employment  of  skilled  accountants 
from  several  foreign  countries  to  facilitate  the  transaction  of  business. 

NEW  FINANCIAL  RELATIONS  FOLLOWED. 

Deposits  aggregating  more  than  $3,000,000  were  early  secured  by 
St.  Louis  banks  from  foreign  governments  and  citizens  interested  in  the 
fair,  and  an  army  of  correspondents  were  set  at  work  securing  deposits 
which  ultimately  made  even  this  sum  seem  rather  insignificant. 

St.  Louis  institutions  seized  upon  the  opportunity  to  obtain  direct 
recognition  from  banks  in  foreign  countries.  Heretofore  all  business 
with  foreign  institutions  had  been  transacted  through  New  York,  but 
one  of  the  benefits  accruing  from  the  fair  was  the  establishment  of 
direct  intercourse  between  St.  Louis  banks  and  all  foreign  financial 
institutions. 

JAPANESE   RICE   GROWERS   FOR  LOUISIANA   AND   TEXAS. 

Probably  the  first  direct  "development"  effect  made  in  the  Louis- 
iana territory  as  a  result  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  was 
the  semi-official  recognition  given  by  the  Japanese  Commission  to  the 
immigration  movement  from  Japan  to  the  rice-growing  country  in 
Louisiana  and  Texas. 

About  the  first  of  June  a  large  number  of  Japanese,  in  St.  Louis, 
departed  for  Louisiana  and  Texas  for  a  trip  through  the  rice  country. 
About  the  same  time  a  party  of  more  than  100  Japanese  reached 
Houston.    The  latter  settled  in  the  rice  country  to  become  rice  farmers. 

Two  members  of  this  party,  it  is  said,  brought  with  them  more  than 
$100,000  with  which  to  purchase  rice  lands  and  start  Japanese  colonies. 


OLD  STONE  WATER  JAR  AND  FILTER — This  rare  old  relic  of  early  New  Orleans 
shows  the  method  employed  by  the  pioneers  of  Louisiana  to  secure  pure  drinking  water. 
The  antique  filter  was  exhibited  at  the  fair  before  the  reproduction  of  the  famous  old 
structure  now  used  as  a  city  court  in  New  Orleans. 


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WHEN  THE  DAY  IS  DONE — Uncle  Sam  is  represented  at  the  exposition  by  soldiers, 
as  well  as  sailors  and  marines.  This  cavalryman  is  making  ready  for  a  night 's  repose 
after  his  hard  day  in  the  broiling  sun.  The  soldiers  at  the  fair  proved  a  great  drawing 
card  and  were  constantly  surrounded  by  eager  questioners. 


CHAPTER.    XXVI. 
MYSTERIOUS   LITTLE   JAPANESE    PRIMITIVES 

How  Prof.  Starr  Brought  the  Ainu  to  the  Fair — The  Women  Love  Their  Children  and 
Fear  an  Old  Woman's  Ghost — Nature  Worshipers  and  Soulless  Women — Brave 
Hunters,  But  No  Warriors — Women  Fond  of  Tattooed  Mustaches — They  Never  Use 
Mirrors — Do  Not  Blacken  Their  Teeth — Stroking  Beard  or  Hair  a  Mark  of  Honor — 
Personal  Worth  Measured  by  Bear  Skulls — Hand  Rubbing,  Instead  of  Hand  Shak- 
ing— Ainu  Women  Said  to  Suckle  Bear  Cubs — Queer  Mixture  for  Arrow  Poison — 
Painful  Tattooing  Processes — Not  Only  Bury,  But  Hide  Their  Dead — ^A  Grasping 
Ainu  Baby — St.  Louis  Ainu  Polite  and  Clean. 

NO  description  of  Japan  and  the  Japanese  is  complete  without  the 
story  of  the  Ainu  people— a  hairy  race  from  the  north  of  Japan, 
unlike  any  other  on  the  face  of  the  globe. 

HOW  PEOF.  STAER  BROUGHT  THE  AINU  TO  THE  FAIR. 

Professor  Starr,  of  the  University  of  Chicago,  brought  to  the  St. 
Louis  exposition  eight  of  these  queerest  little  people  in  the  world.  This 
was  the  first  time  in  the  history  of  the  world  that  a  colony  of  them  has 
ever  been  seen  in  any  other  part  of  the  world  than  those  northern  islands 
of  the  Japanese  archipelago  which  are  the  Ainus'  home. 

Ethnologists  accredit  the  Ainu  with  being  one  of  the  most  interesting 
members  of  the  human  family.  No  other  man  is  so  hairy  as  he,  nor  is 
there  any  other  primitive  race  that  has  so  many  customs  peculiar  to 
itself  and  different  from  those  of  other  nations  and  races. 

Professor  Starr  personally  conducted  the  enterprise  of  bringing  these 
strange  people  from  their  far-away  home  on  the  coast  of  Asia  to  the  St. 
Louis  fair.  He  left  St.  Louis  in  December  of  1903  for  Japan,  secured 
the  assistance  of  the  Japanese  government  in  an  expedition  to  the  Isle 
of  Yezzo,  chose  eight  good  specimens  of  the  Ainu  and  brought  them  back 
with  him  the  following  spring. 

It  was  originally  intended  that  there  should  be  a  great  congress  of 
primitive  races  at  the  St.  Louis  fair,  but  the  enterprise  was  abandoned 
because  of  its  expensiveness.    It  was  estimated  that  a  complete  congress 

385 


386  Mysteeious  Little  Japanese  Peimitives 

of  the  sort  proposed  would  cost  upward  of  $2,000,000.  In  its  stead  Pro- 
fessor W.  J.  McGee,  chief  of  the  Department  of  Anthropology  for  the 
exposition,  resolved  to  bring  to  the  fair  some  of  the  least  known  and  most 
remarkable  of  primitive  people.  He  sent  for  the  Ainu,  the  primitive  peo- 
ple of  Japan;  the  Patagonian  giants,  who  live  on  the  rocky  shores  of 
Tierra  del  Fuego,  in  South  America,  and  the  little  Pygmies  of  Central 
Africa. 

MEMBERS  OF  THE  PARTY. 

The  members  included  in  the  Ainu  party  were  Sangea  Hiramura, 
the  patriarch  of  the  tribe,  and  his  wife ;  Sansukuno  Kutsurogeainu  Hira- 
mura, their  son,  with  his  wife,  Shuttrateku,  and  their  child,  little  2-year- 
old  Kiku;  Yuzo  Osawa  and  his  spouse,  Time,  with  their  5-year-old 
youngster.  Kin  Goro  Bete,  a  handsome  young  fellow,  was  the  only 
bachelor  in  the  party. 

Comparatively  little  is  known  concerning  the  strange  race,  which  may 
be  briefly  described  as  follows: 

THE   HAIRY  AINU  IN"   A  NUTSHELL. 

Ainu  means  man.  The  Ainu  have  no  conception  of  a  hell  and  no 
laws.  They  never  laugh  aloud.  The  women  do  the  work.  Suicide  is 
unknown  to  them.  They  are  called  the  hairy  people  and  are  the  primi- 
tives of  Japan. 

Their  origin  is  virtually  unknown.  They  live  in  the  northernmost 
islands  of  Japan.  The  Ainu  never  wash,  brush  or  comb  the  hair.  They 
are  the  gentlest  known  race  of  barbarians. 

Ainu  women  strap  their  babies  upon  their  back.  No  Ainu  woman 
takes  the  name  of  her  husband.  They  despise  cowardice,  and  they  rever- 
ence old  age.  All  Ainu  have  long  black  hair  on  their  arms  and  legs. 
They  are  a  cold-blooded  people,  without  strong  emotions.  Flogging  is 
the  punishment  for  all  crimes  except  murder. 

THE  WOMEN  LOVE  THEIR  CHILDREN  AND  FEAR  AN  OLD  WOMAN  ^S  GHOST. 

Ainu  women  love  their  children,  but  they  never  look  after  them.  All 
the  men  are  fishermen  and  hunters,  and  wear  long  beards.  The  Ainu 
go  to  bed  at  sunset  and  they  never  stir  about  at  night.  An  Ainu  man 
who  neglects  his  god-sticks  becomes  an  outcast.  The  ghost  of  an  old 
woman  is  the  thing  most  feared  by  an  Ainu. 


Mysterious  Little  Japanese  Primitives  387 

They  have  flat  bones  in  their  arms  and  legs  like  the  cave  men  of 
Europe.  Metallurgy  is  entirely  unknown  to  them,  and  they  make  noth- 
ing in  metals.  Every  Ainu  believes  that  the  dog  one  time  possessed  the 
power  of  speech.  The  Ainu  were  once  a  numerous  race,  and  they  pos- 
sessed all  the  islands  of  Japan. 

They  have  no  prisons,  nor  restraint  of  any  sort  as  a  penalty  for  wrong- 
doing. Because  of  their  close  intermarrying,  the  Ainu  become  fewer 
in  numbers  each  year.  The  Ainu  are  great  drinkers  of  liquor,  and  it  has 
proven  a  great  curse  to  them.  Baldness  is  very  prevalent  among  the 
Ainu,  and  it  is  regarded  as  a  great  curse.  The  Ainu  seldom  sleep  on 
anything  spfter  than  a  board,  and  they  do  not  use  pillows. 

NATURE  worshipers  AND   SOULLESS  WOMEN. 

They  are  nature  worshipers,  and  their  gods  are  the  sun,  the  winds 
and  the  ocean.  The  folklore  of  the  Ainu  is  one  of  the  most  complete 
known  among  the  primitive  races.  The  bear  is  sacred  to  the  Ainu,  and 
they  eat  bear  flesh  at  their  big  religious  feasts.  When  an  Ainu  woman 
meets  an  Ainu  man,  she  always  steps  aside  to  let  him  pass. 

The  Ainus  worship  their  gods  by  whittling  little  sticks  and  setting 
them  up  in  their  honor.  Ainu  women  are  not  supposed  to  have  any 
souls,  and  are  therefore  forbidden  to  pray. 

BRAVE  HUNTERS,  BUT  NO  WAERIORS. 

An  Ainu  house  is  always  abandoned  when  one  dies  in  it.  Oftentimes 
it  is  burned.  Letters  are  entirely  unknown  to  the  Ainu.  In  fact,  they 
seem  incapable  of  any  civilization.  There  are  no  Ainu  warriors.  It  is 
believed  they  are  the  only  non-fighting  savages  known.  The  Ainu  have 
no  idols,  and  their  temple  is  a  sacred  hedge  of  little  willow  sticks  set  in 
the  ground. 

The  Ainu  are  great  fish  eaters,  and  their  principal  food  at  the  St. 
Louis  fair  was  fish  and  beef.  Shaking  the  head  to  indicate  yes  and  no 
is  unknown  to  them.  Tliey  make  these  signs  with  their  shoulders.  The 
Ainu  are  brave,  and  a  hunter  does  not  hesitate  to  take  his  knife  in  hand 
and  attack  a  bear. 

WOMEN  FOND  OP  TATTOOED   MUSTACHES. 

The  Ainu  women  tattoo  mustaches  upon  their  upper  lips,  and  pat- 
terns in  the  palms  of  their  hands.     They  are  dark-skinned,  and  slow- 


388  Mysteeious  Little  Japanese  Primitives 

witted,  and  their  old  men,  with  their  long  beards,  look  like  patriarchs. 
They  are  almost  the  sam.e  height  as  the  Japanese,  but  are  heavier,  and 
they  haven't  the  almond  eye. 

The  dog  has  a  conspicuous  place  in  the  Ainu  village.  Every  Ainu 
loves  dogs,  and  their  villages  are  full  of  them.  The  Ainu  children  have 
big  stomachs.  Oftentimes,  they  wear  a  suspender  to  hold  their  stomachs 
up.  The  Ainu  talk  in  a  sing-song  fashior  and  the  women  pitch  their 
voices  into  a  very  disagreeable  falsetto. 

women  nevee  use  mirroes. 

The  Ainu  are  not  vain  about  their  personal  appearance,  and  even  the 
the  women  and  girls  never  use  mirrors.  They  sing  weird  songs,  make 
good  boats,  always  put  a  leaky  roof  on  their  houses,  and  are  great  smokers. 

The  Ainu  and  Japanese  tongues,  while  very  similar  in  some  things, 
are  two  distinctly  separate  languages. 

The  Ainu  know  nothing  of  the  use  of  firearms.  Their  favorite  weap- 
on is  the  spear.  They  all  carry  knives.  Ainu  names  are  always  from  some 
peculiarity  or  adventure  of  the  individual,  there  being  no  family  names. 
They  are  regarded  as  having  more  customs  peculiar  to  themselves  than 
any  other  primitive  people  in  the  world.  The  Ainu  are  an  entirely  sep- 
arate race  from  the  Japanese,  and  were  on  the  islands  when  the  Japanese 
came. 

The  Ainu  come  from  a  cold  country,  and  the  climate  at  St.  Louis  was 
the  warmest  they  had  ever  experienced.  They  venerate  the  pine  and  the 
oak  tree,  and  make  their  clothing  from  fiber  peeled  from  the  inner  bark 
of  the  elm.  Ainu  women  are  famous  for  their  violent  tempers,  and  the 
men  stand  in  great  fear  of  them  when  they  are  aroused. 

Bathing  is  rare  among  the  Ainu,  though  they  are  almost  amphibious, 
so  long  have  they  lived  on  the  islands  of  the  seas.  The  Ainu  bury  food 
and  pipe  and  tobacco  with  the  dead,  and  both  men  and  women  shave 
their  heads  when  they  are  in  mourning. 

Many  of  the  Ainu  women  are  mat  weavers,  and  mats  woven  of  bull- 
rushes  are  made  to  serve  as  coverings  for  windows  and  doors.  The  Ainu 
are  fine  horsemen,  and  they  are  accurate  marksmen.  Singularly,  they 
are  not  runners.    They  regard  it  as  unbecoming. 

DO  NOT  BLACKEN  THEIE  TEETH. 

Ainu  women  have  handsome  teeth,  white  and  straight,  and  they  do 


Mysteeious  Little  Japanese  Primitives  389 

not  blacken  them,  as  the  Japanese  were  one  time  compelled  to  do.  The 
penalty  for  murder  among  them  is  to  have  the  tendons  of  the  arms  and 
legs  cut,  so  the  offender  may  not  hunt  or  fish  any  more. 

It  is  said  that  no  two  Ainu  ever  build  the  same  kind  of  a  house. 
Every  new  house  also  has  some  little  thing  about  it  that  is  original  with 
the  builder.  Strangers  in  an  Ainu  home  are  always  made  to  sleep  on 
the  east  side  of  the  house.  It  would  be  bad  luck  and  worse  manners  to 
sleep  elsewhere. 

PEOPLE  OF  A  SINGLE  STRENUOUS  IDEA. 

Ethnologists  call  the  Ainu  the  people  of  a  single  idea.  They  think 
of  one  thing  at  a  time,  and  when  an  Ainu  is  thinking  his  mind  cannot 
be  diverted.  The  average  height  of  the  Ainu  men  is  given  as  5  feet  and  2 
inches.  They  have  very  long  arms,  and  can  stretch  them  a  hand  beyond 
their  own  height. 

The  Ainu  believe  that  ill-fortune  will  attend  them  if  their  pictures 
are  taken,  hence  amateur  photographers  at  the  Ainu  village  had  a  hard 
time  of  it. 

A.  Henry  Savage  Landor,  who  has  been  among  the  Ainu  more  than 
any  other  Caucasian,  estimates  that  there  are  8,000  of  them  on  Yezzo 
and  neighboring  islands. 

STROKING  BEARD  OR  HAIR  A  MARK  OF  HONOR. 

When  an  Ainu  man  desires  to  show  great  deference  to  another  he 
strokes  his  long  beard,  repeating  this  movement  according  to  the  honor 
he  wishes  to  express.  The  Ainu  have  wavy  hair,  often  curly.  Black 
is  the  predominant  color.  The  hair  of  the  children  is  lighter,  and  often 
auburn.    All  Ainu  hair  is  coarse  and  strong. 

The  Ainu  housewife  never  washes  the  dishes,  and  she  gets  along 
with  very  few  cooking  utensils.  They  live  in  thatched  houses  of  rude 
pattern,  and  without  any  floors. 

The  Ainu  woman  salutes  by  stroking  her  hair  and  then  rubbing  the 
first  finger  of  the  right  hand  across  her  upper  lip.  It  is  said  to  be  much 
more  graceful  than  it  sounds.  Tattooing  the  mustache  upon  the  upper 
lips  of  Ainu  girls  begins  in  childhood,  and  they  are  not  considered  young 
ladies  until  the  disfiguring  marks  have  spread  out  to  their  cheeks. 

The  Ainu  are  the  greatest  of  grimacing  humans.    Some  of  them  can 


390  Mysterious  Little  Japanese  Primitives 

make  more  faces  than  a  monkey.     The  trick  of  moving  the  scalp  with 
the  muscles  is  possessed  by  many  of  them. 

PERSONAL  worth  MEASURED  BY  BEAR  SKULLS. 

Every  Ainu  man  keeps  on  a  rack  in  his  hut  the  skulls  of  all  the  bears, 
wolves  and  other  animals  he  has  killed.  The  more  bear  skulls  he  has, 
the  higher  he  is  rated  by  his  fellows. 

The  Ainu  and  Japanese  half-breeds  have  proven  a  sickly  people,  and 
there  are  few  of  them  in  the  country.  The  Ainu's  chief  foe  has  been 
smallpox,  which  has  greatly  decimated  the  race. 

The  Ainu's  best  wish  for  a  friend  is  ''May  you  be  kept  warm." 
This  is  cited  as  one  of  several  reasons  for  believing  that  they  came  from 
the  north  to  the  islands  which  are  now  their  homes. 

The  Ainu  believe  music  to  have  the  power  of  curing  illness,  and, 
while  they  have  only  a  few  primitive  musical  instruments,  they  always 
sing  to  the  sick.  Naturally,  some  of  the  sick  never  recover.  The  custom 
of  tattooing  a  mustache  upon  the  lips  of  the  girls  and  women  grew  out 
of  the  Ainu  belief  that  persons  without  hair  upon  their  faces  are  without 
courage  or  any  other  goodly  attribute. 

HAND  RUBBING  INSTEAD  OF  HAND   SHAKING. 

The  Ainu  are  the  longest  and  most  peculiar  of  handshakers.  They 
simply  lay  the  palms  of  the  hands  together  and  slide  them  back  and 
forth,  making  it  a  hand  rubbing  more  than  a  hand  shaking. 

The  Ainu  have  no  marriage  ceremony,  and  a  man  is  privileged  to 
have  as  many  wives  as  he  can  get.  The  Ainu  couple  simply  agree  to  live 
together,  and  their  advent  upon  this  venture  is  not  celebrated  in  any  wise. 
They  are  light  reddish-brown  in  color,  and  have  none  of  the  sallow 
yellowness  of  the  Mongolian.  They  have  expressive  eyes,  and  almost 
every  Ainu's  eyes  are  light  brown  in  color.  Black  eyes  are  rare  among 
them. 

Ethnologists  have  always  been  puzzled  by  the  fact  that  the  Ainu 
look  more  like  Europeans  than  Asiatics.  In  fact,  some  of  the  people  who 
have  studied  them  believe  them  to  have  come  from  northern  Europe. 
Ainu  nomenclature  still  clings  to  much  of  Japan.  The  primitive  people 
had  a  happy  knack  of  giving  pretty  and  appropriate  names  to  rivers, 
lakes,  mountains,  etc.,  and  the  Japanese  have  retained  many  of  these 
names. 


Mysterious  Little  Japanese  Primitives  391 


AINU  WOMEN    SAID   TO    SUCKLE   BEAR  CUBS. 

Ainu  women  sometimes  suckle  bear  cubs  brought  in  by  the  liunters. 
This  is  disputed  by  some  white  people  who  have  visited  them,  but  others 
aver  that  they  have  seen  the  women  doing  it  and  that  there  cannot  be  any 
doubt  of  it. 

The  worst  injury  that  may  be  done  to  an  Ainu  is  to  hide  his  god 
sticks— the  little  sticks  he  whittles  and  places  in  the  ground  about  his 
house.  The  Ainu  of  the  Island  of  Yezzo,  where  almost  all  of  them  are 
found,  were  practically  undiscovered  up  to  100  years  ago.  They  had 
never  seen  a  white  man  until,  early  in  the  nineteenth  century,  an  ad- 
venturous Englishman  landed  upon  their  shores. 

QUEER   MIXTURE   FOR  ARROW   POISON. 

Ainu  hunters  poison  their  arrows  with  a  queer  mess.  They  take  the 
brains  of  a  crow,  some  tobacco  ashes,  and  two  native  insects,  and  mix 
them  all  together,  producing  a  substance  so  poisonous  that  an  arrow 
dipped  into  it  will  kill  a  bear,  even  though  the  missile  inflicts  but  a  slight 
flesh  wound. 

The  rapid  civilization  of  the  Japanese  presents  a  striking  contrast 
to  the  inability  of  the  Ainu  to  become  anything  more  than  simple  bar- 
barians. Their  stupidity  in  this  respect  has  never  been  satisfactorily 
explained,  and  they  are  ethnically  listed  with  the  races  who  are  impos- 
sible of  civilization  and  education. 

The  Ainu  are  far  from  ugly,  and  their  heads  are  no  less  than  pic- 
turesque- Gentleness  is  the  striking  thing  noticeable  in  their  faces. 
Their  foreheads  are  narrow,  and  slope  gently  backward.  Their  noses 
are  slightly  hooked,  flat  and  broad,  with  wide  nostrils.  They  have 
large  mouths  and  firm,  thick  lips.  They  have  exceptionally  long  ear 
lobes. 

PAINFUL  TATTOOING  PROCESSES. 

Tattooing  among  the  Ainu  is  very  painful.  Horizontal  slashes  are 
made  with  a  knife,  crossed  by  slanting  cuts  very  close  together.  The 
coloring  matter  is  made  from  the  bark  of  birch  wood  scraped  from  the 
bottom  of  a  kettle.  The  slashes  in  the  flesh  are  opened  and  the  coloring 
is  rubbed  in  without  mercy.    The  flesh  swells,  and  becomes  very  sore. 


392  Mystekious  Little  Japanese  Peimitives 

and  Ainu  girls  are  unable  to  talk  for  many  days  after  the  tattooing  on 
their  lips. 

Tattooing  of  the  women  is  virtually  the  only  primitive  characteristic 
of  the  Ainu,  for  they  have  been  largely  converted  to  the  Christian  faith, 
and  in  manner  of  dress  appear  almost  as  well  as  some  of  the  people  of 
the  lower  section  of  Japan. 

The  tattooed  lips  of  the  woman  denote  that  she  is  married  and  it  has 
been  customary  for  all  women  of  the  island  to  receive  this  mark  as  soon 
as  they  were  elegible  to  matrimony.  A  law  recently  passed  in  Japan 
prohibits  this  custom,  so  that  the  growing  generation  of  the  Ainu  tribe 
may  look  just  like  other  people. 

The  wilder  Ainu  of  the  seashores  dress  in  the  skins  of  birds,  with 
the  feathers  inside.  The  dress  of  the  men  is  shaped  like  a  short  tunic, 
made  of  bird  skins.  Some  of  the  more  pretentious  are  trimmed  with  seal. 
The  woman's  dress  is  much  longer,  and  reaches  almost  to  the  feet.  It 
hangs  loose  and  long  sleeves  cover  the  hands.  The  women  wear  mocca- 
sins and  long  yellow  boots,  as  do  the  men. 

The  Ainu  of  the  coast  rank  very  low  in  civilization,  being  singularly 
without  the  mental  acumen  necessary  to  mental  development.  Some 
ethnologists  consider  them  inferior  to  the  blacks  of  the  Australian  bush 
or  the  tree  dwellers  of  India.  Their  ignorance  of  the  blessings  of  clean- 
liness is  said  to  even  exceed  that  of  the  Tehuelche  Indians  of  Tierra 
del  Fuego,  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  South  American  continent. 

NOT  ONLY  BURY,  BUT  HIDE  THEIR  DEAD. 

The  Ainu  not  only  bury  their  dead,  but  hide  them  as  well,  and 
whenever  the  burying  place  of  a  family  or  village  is  discovered,  it  is 
abandoned,  and  a  new  one  is  selected.  It  is  said  that  the  queer  little 
grave  posts  stuck  into  the  graves  are  very  difficult  for  collectors  to  get 
because  of  the  secrecy  maintained  by  the  Ainu  toward  their  burying 
places.  Sometimes  a  traveler  will  run  upon  an  old  cemetery  in  a  thick 
part  of  the  wood. 

The  Ainu  are  fortune  tellers  in  a  very  unique  way.  After  dark  the 
fire  is  etxinguished,  and  two  small  bamboo  sticks  crossed  and  tied  to- 
gether, are  laid  before  the  fortune  teller,  who  begins  to  pray  aloud.  The 
sticks  begin  to  dance  when  the  spirits  begin  to  speak.  You  wouldn't 
be  able  to  see  them  move,  but  the  superstitious  Ainu  are  very  sharp- 


Mysteeious  Little  Japanese  Primitives  393 

eyed,  and  they  can  see  the  sticks  dance  around,  or,  at  least,  profess  to 
see  them  do  so.  The  fate  of  the  person  whose  fortune  is  being  told  is 
indicated  by  the  movements  of  these  sticks. 

A  GRASPING  AINU  BABY. 

The  youngest  of  the  Ainu  at  the  fair  was  two  years  old.  Her  name 
was  Kinu.  Kinu  is  the  Ainu  name  for  Chrysanthemum.  Kinu  looked 
more  like  a  Japanese  doll  than  a  baby.  She  had  a  disposition  that  soon 
won  the  admiration  of  visitors  to  the  Indian  building,  and  it  was  feared 
that  she  would  be  a  spoiled  baby  before  the  exposition  ended. 

There  was  something  in  the  characteristics  of  Kinu  that  caused  visi- 
tors to  marvel.  She  was  a  keen  observer  and  amazingly  quick  at  con- 
ception. Apparently  she  had  a  longing  to  become  the  possessor  of  every- 
thing she  saw. 

There  was  a  time  a  few  years  ago  when  Kinu  and  her  parents  would 
have  been  brought  to  the  United  States  in  fur  clothing,  had  the 
commissioner  been  able  to  persuade  them  to  leave  their  native  island  at 
that  time,  but  of  recent  years  the  tribe  has  made  advances  in  civiliza- 
tion and  now  wear  clothing  similar  to  the  Japanese,  which  race  they 
resemble  in  some  respects. 

ST.  LOUIS  AINU  POLITE  AND  CLEAN. 

The  polite  manners  of  the  Ainu  proved  their  chief  mark  of  distinc- 
tion. There  was  some  disappointment  when  the  band  of  primitive  folk 
arrived  at  St.  Louis.  They  were  the  hairy  Ainu,  true  enough,  but  they 
weren't  man-eaters,  dog-eaters  or  wild  men. 

With  their  soft  manner  of  expression,  kindly  bearing  and  uniform 
courtesy,  however,  this  particular  group  of  Ainu  made  a  good  name  for 
themselves  at  the  great  exposition. 

Another  disappointment  in  the  Ainu  was  the  cleanliness  of  this  par- 
ticular group,  but  the  arrival  of  the  Patagonian  giants  forestalled  pos- 
sible regrets  in  the  public  mind.  The  Patagonian  giants  are  primitive 
folk  and  incidentally  the  dirtiest  people  on  the  globe.  Bieing  also  quar- 
tered in  the  Indian  building,  the  Patagonians  made  up  for  all  the  cleanli- 
ness of  the  hairy  Ainu. 

AINU  AND  PATAGONIAN  WOMEN   CONTRASTED. 

Two  women,  one  an  Ainu  from  the  northern  part  of  Japan,  the  other 


394  Mysterious  Little  Japanese  Primitives 

the  wife  of  a  Patagonian  chief,  from  the  most  southerly  extremity  of  the 
Republic  of  Argentine,  were  ''next  door  neighbors"  at  the  Louisiana 
Purchase  Exposition. 

These  women  lived  10,000  miles  apart  before  coming  to  the  world's 
fair,  and  neither  ever  dreamed  that  such  a  person  as  the  other  existed. 

Neither  of  these  women  had  the  faintest  idea  that  the  world  extended 
so  far  south  or  so  far  north;  that  there  was  a  North  Pole  or  a  South  Pole. 

Both  constituted  types  of  the  most  primitive  of  the  world 's  primitive 
folk.    Both  are  called  Indians,  but  there  the  simile  ceases. 

The  Ainu  woman  w^as  industrious  and  had  a  good  knowledge  of  the 
art  of  sewing.  She  wore  pretty  garments  well  knit,  and  colored  with  an 
eye  for  the  artistic.  The  Patagonian  woman  wore  skins  i^laced  together 
in  an  awkward  fashion,  and  with  all  their  original  crudeness  preserved. 

The  Ainu  woman  had  a  kind  disposition  and  smiled  pleasantly  when 
greeting  the  world's  fair  visitors.  The  Patagonian  woman  was  sullen. 
The  Patagonian  was  not  so  sullen  to  the  strange  woman  from  Japan. 
She  saw  in  her  an  object  of  great  curiosity,  as  did  the  Ainu  in  her  dark 
sister  from  the  South. 

Having  languages  distinctly  foreign  to  each  other,  these  primitive 
women  found  it  difficult  to  promote  a  cordial  visit,  but  with  the  char- 
acteristic of  womankind,  they  soon  succeeded  in  establishing  social  re- 
lations. 

During  their  stay  at  the  fair  the  Ainu  band  surprised  visitors  by 
holding  Christian  religious  exercises,  and  on  one  or  two  occasions  at- 
tended service  at  an  Episcopal  church  near  by. 


CHAPTER    XXVII. 
CHINA    AT    THE,    WORLD'S    FAIK 

Modeled  After  Imperial  Summer  Palace — In  the  Altar  Room — Notables  Aid  the  Prince 
— Future  Emperor's  Speech — Prince's  Face  Beamed  With  Happiness — Empress 
Dowager  Donates  Pictures  to  the  Government — Chinese  Village  on  the  Pike. 

ESPLENDENT  in  the  brilliantly  colored  silk  and  satin  robes 
which  a  Chinese  prince  alone  may  wear,  Prince  Pu  Lun,  heir  ap- 
parent to  the  throne  of  China,  presided  at  the  dedication  of  the  Chinese 
pavilion  at  the  world's  fair. 

From  that  one  circumstance  may  be  best  judged  the  interest  taken 
by  China  in  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition.  Not  only  Chinese 
commissioners,  aides  and  diplomatic  attaches  studied  the  fair  from  all 
standpoints  and  contributed  all  in  their  power  to  make  it  a  success,  but 
the  future  occupant  of  the  dragon  throne  himself  attended  and  was  a 
close  observer  of  everything  there.  Who  can  say  what  influence  the 
exposition  may  have  upon  his  prospective  reign  and,  in  consequence, 
upon  the  destinies  of  ancient  Cathay? 

MODELED  AFTER  IMPEEIAL  SUMMER  PALACE. 

The  Chinese  pavilion  at  the  fair  was  on  the  south  side  of  Adminis- 
tration way,  the  second  building  east  of  Administration  building.  It 
was  in  three  parts,  and  a  duplicate  of  one  of  Prince  Pu  Lun's  summer 
palaces. 

The  gateway  consisted  of  elaborately  decorated  arches  surmounted 
by  grotesque  Chinese  figures.  Directly  in  front  was  a  Chinese  pagoda, 
and  to  the  right  a  goldfish  pond,  a  duplicate  of  the  one  at  Prince  Pu 
Lun's  summer  home  in  China. 

The  pavilion  itself  was  a  one-story  building  in  the  Chinese  style  of 
architecture,  with  prominent  Chinese  gables,  painted  gray.  In  the  cen- 
ter was  a  court,  and  within  this  a  smaller  building.  At  either  side  of  the 
central  building  were  retiring  rooms. 

Visitors  to  the  pavilion  were  received  by  Chinese  servants  in  the 

395 


396  China  at  the  World's  Fair 

west  retiring  room,  which  contained  a  Chinese  desk,  a  bamboo  couch 
and  a  number  of  Chinese  chairs  in  beautiful  inlaid  woods.  The  walls 
were  of  varnished  wood,  and  hanging  from  them  were  a  number  of 
Chinese  paintings,  the  largest  of  which  was  a  picture  of  pink  lotus 
flowers. 

IN  THE  ALTAE  ROOM. 

The  middle  building  was  furnished  in  red  and  black  furniture,  the 
black  furniture  being  of  lacquer  inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl.  Some  of 
the  red  furniture  was  inlaid  with  gold.  An  altar,  on  which  rested  a 
small  god  made  of  grayish  metal,  occupied  the  center  of  the  room. 

In  the  east  retiring  room  was  a  Chinese  bed,  wardrobe,  washstand 
and  chairs.  The  bed  was  gorgeously  decorated,  hundreds  of  mirrors 
being  placed  above  the  fringe  about  the  top,  and  groups  of  paintings 
being  hung  above  the  canopy.  The  pillow  was  hard  and  was  deco- 
rated. 

All  of  the  furnishings  were  of  the  most  costly  materials  and  rare 
designs,  and  the  building,  though  comparatively  small,  contained  more 
articles  of  value  than  many  of  the  larger  foreign  structures.  For  this 
reason  visitors  were  not  allowed  to  wander  through  the  rooms,  but  were 
kept  in  parties  and  in  charge  of  guides. 

NOTABLES  AID  THE  PRINCE. 

Notable  among  the  Chinese  who  assisted  Prince  Pu  Lun  at  the  open- 
ing festivities  were  Cheng-Tung  Liang  Cheng,  Chinese  minister  at 
Washington,  and  Wong  Kai  Kah,  Chinese  Vice  Imperial  Commissioner 
to  the  world's  fair.  Each  wore  native  official  costume,  according  to  his 
rank. 

The  ceremonies  attending  the  dedication  were  marked  by  an  inter- 
change of  international  compliments  and  toasts  to  the  Emperor  of  China 
and  President  Roosevelt. 

The  strange  Oriental  rooms  of  the  building,  decorated  in  the  rare 
splendor  of  Imperial  China,  were  thronged  with  distinguished  men  and 
women  fashionably  attired  for  the  occasion.  The  Hall  of  State,  the 
chief  room  of  the  building,  was  crowded  when  President  Francis  rapped 
for  order.  As  soon  as  quiet  was  restored  Prince  Pu  Lun,  who  had  been 
the  center  of  a  group  of  beautiful  society  woman,  spoke  his  address  to 
Wong  Kai  Kah,  who  in  turn  translated  it  to  the  assemblage. 


China  at  the  World's  Fair  397 


FUTUBE  EMPEEOE  S  SPEECH. 

Prince  Pn  Lun  said : 

' '  President  Francis  and  officers  of  the  Exposition :  As  a  representa- 
tive of  the  Chinese  Government,  I  desire  to  thank  you  for  this  great 
enterprise,  which,  uniting  all  nations,  brings  us  closer  together  in  a 
social  and  commercial  way.  Our  Government  hopes  that  the  St.  Louis 
exposition  may  be  the  result  of  arousing  a  more  sincere  international 
feeling  between  China  and  the  United  States. 

''It  is  entirely  due  to  the  kind  offices  of  the  officials  of  the  exposi- 
tion and  the  people  of  St.  Louis  that  the  Chinese  building  is  now  com- 
pleted and  is  ready  to  be  thrown  open  to  the  public. 

"As  the  representative  of  China  and  the  Chinese  Commission,  I 
desire  to  express  most  sincere  thanks  to  the  officers  of  this  great  world 's 
fair  and  to  the  peo^Dle  of  St.  Louis  and  the  United  States  at  large. ' ' 

PEINCe's  FACE  BEAMED  WITH  HAPPINESS. 

President  Francis  replied: 

''China  was  one  of  the  first  great  nations  to  signify  its  intention  to 
participate  in  the  exposition,  and  the  extent  of  that  participation  is  the 
greatest  which  China  has  ever  attempted.  This  beautiful  building  in 
which  we  meet  to-day  is  an  ornament  to  the  site  on  which  it  is  con- 
structed, and  a  credit  to  the  great  Government  which  built  it. 

"In  the  name  of  the  Exposition  Company  and  the  Government  of 
the  United  States,  I  desire  to  express  our  most  sincere  obligations,  and 
I  hope  that  this  exposition  may  serve  to  strengthen  the  commercial  rela- 
tions and  bring  about  a  closer  relationship  and  better  acquaintance  which 
will  increase  our  mutual  respect." 

President  Francis's  speech  was  then  translated  to  Prince  Pu  Lun, 
and  as  he  understood  its  purport  his  face  beamed  with  happiness.  With 
a  gracious  smile  he  bowed  to  President  Francis  and  the  latter  acknowl- 
edged the  salute  by  a  similar  gesture. 

The  prince  wore  a  yellow  jacket  and  a  hat  set  with  rubies,  both  being 
permitted  only  in  the  royal  family.  In  addition  there  was  the  far-famed 
royal  peacock  feather.  He  wore  a  red  sash  that  had  been  presented  to 
him  by  the  Emperor  of  Japan  when  the  prince  was  at  Tokyo.  His 
bloomers  were  short  enough  to  show  his  boots. 


398  China  at  the  World's  Fair 


EMPRESS    DOWAGER    DONATES   PICTURES    TO    THE    GOVERNMENT. 

In  connection  with  this  imperial  building  a  pretty  little  courtesy  was 
shown  the  United  States  by  the  action  of  the  Empress  Dowager  of  China 
in  donating  the  pictures  displayed  within  to  the  government  at  the  close 
of  the  fair.  These  included  a  series  of  portraits  of  herself  wonderfully 
worked. 

CHINESE  VILLAGE  ON   THE  PIKE. 

In  addition  to  the  departmental  exhibits  China  was  appropriately 
represented  on  the  Pike.  The  Chinese  Village  there  was  an  attraction 
provided  by  an  association  of  Chinese  merchants  of  Philadelphia.  It 
consisted  of  a  Chinese  theater  with  native  players;  a  joss  house,  with 
a  guide  to  explain  the  significance  of  the  religious  rites  and  symbols;  a 
tea  house,  with  native  waiters,  and  an  extensive  bazaar  with  a  popula- 
tion of  native  merchants,  mechanics,  painters,  and  decorators  working 
with  their  fingers  as  they  have  done  from  time  immemorial  in  the  Celes- 
tial Empire. 

Silk  weavers  delved  at  the  same  looms  which  were  spun  by  their 
ancestors  thousands  of  years  ago,  ivory  carvers  were  at  work  making 
small  elephants,  dogs  and  cats,  native  players  appeared  in  a  genuine 
drama  of  Cathay,  and  a  guard  in  the  uniform  of  a  Chinese  soldier  pre- 
served order  in  the  enclosure.  The  production  was  a  vast  hive  of 
sounds,  with  wares  otfered  in  the  persuasive  pigeon  English  of  the  arti- 
san from  Canton,  Foo  Chow,  or  Hong  Kong. 


CHAPTER.    XXVIII. 
ART    AS    E,XPRE,SSED    AT    THE    FAIR 

Comprehensive  Classification  of  Art — Industrial  Art  Recognized  as  Fine  Art — A  Step 
Forward  at  the  Chicago  Exposition — Grand  Open-Air  Sculpture  at  the  St.  Louis 
Exposition — Wonderful  Characteristic  Figures — Art  Still  Survives  Modern  Commer- 
cialism— Belgium's  Complete  Exhibit  of  Later-Day  Masters — The  Land  of  Painters 
— Emile  A.  Vautier  and  Belgian  Art — Sharp  Contrasts  in  Subjects  and  Treatment 
— The  Painters  Know  Country  and  People — Character  as  Expressed  in  Hands — 
Magnificent  French  Landscapes  and  Heroic  Figures — Death  and  the  Woodchopper 
— House  of  the  Madonna — Bouguereau  and  Other  Modern  French  Masters. 

ART  is  a  broad  term  as  applied  to  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposi- 
tion. Art's  manifestations  there  were  infinite  and  various.  The 
field  is  inclusive,  as  is  the  period— contemporaneous  and  retro- 
spective. In  its  largest  meaning,  art  is  the  substance  and  the  finish  of 
the  whole.  It  is  the  creation  of  art-producers  and  over  it  is  the  gloss  of 
art;  the  highest  development  of  the  constructive  and  decorative. 

COMPREHENSIVE  CLASSIFICATION  OP  AET. 

In  a  narrow  sense,  "art"  centered  in  the  Art  Department,  which, 
how^ever  had  a  classification  more  comprehensive  than  given  by  any 
previous  exposition.  The  classification  effaced  the  distinction  hereto- 
fore setting  off  ''fine  art"  from  ''industrial  art."  It  embraced  all  so- 
termed  art  work— upon  canvas,  in  marble,  plaster,  wood,  metal,  glass, 
porcelain,  textile  and  other  materials. 

"All  art  work,"  as  Professor  Halsey  C.  Ives  has  stated,  "in  which 
the  artist-producer  has  worked  with  conviction  and  knowledge  is  recog- 
nized as  equally  deserving  of  respect  in  proportion  to  its  worth  from 
the  standpoints  of  inspiration  and  technique." 

In  this  classification  a  special  group  was  included  for  the  exhibition 
of  art  work  in  glassware,  earthenware,  metal,  leather,  wood  and  textiles, 
and  even  examples  of  artistic  bookbinding. 

No  feature  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  was  better  calcu- 
lated to  call  attention  to  the  progress  which  the  world  has  made  in  the 

399 


400  Art  as  Expressed  at  the  Fair 

last  decade,  and  to  the  greatness  of  the  exposition  which  aimed  to  mirror 
this  progress  than  tlie  exhibits  which  more  than  twenty  countries  con- 
tributed to  the  Palace  of  Fine  Arts,  and  artists  and  laymen  agree  that 
the  exhibition  of  works  of  art  will  go  down  in  history  as  having  eclipsed 
those  at  Chicago  in  1893,  and  at  Paris  in  1900. 

INDUSTRIAL  ART  RECOGNIZED  AS  FINE  ART. 

At  Chicago  and  at  Paris  the  term  ''fine  art"  was  construed  to  mean 
only  the  work  of  the  sculptor,  who  essays  to  copy  nature  in  marble  or 
bronze,  or  the  painter  who  essays  to  transfer  nature  to  canvas,  but  the 
Commissioners  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  decided  to  make 
the  exhibit  in  the  Palace  of  Fine  Arts  broader  in  its  scope,  and  to  include 
what  has  been  termed  industrial  art  or  applied  art.  This  classification 
had  never  been  made  at  any  international  exposition,  but  it  was  believed 
that  the  great  advancement  in  artistic  craftsmanship,  which  has  marked 
the  last  ten  years,  was  deserving  of  recognition,  and  in  the  Palace  of 
Fine  Arts  were  shown  not  only  painting  and  statuary,  but  original 
objects  of  workmanship  in  which  art  is  applied  to  decoration  in  materials 
above  mentioned.  For  the  exhibition  of  industrial  art  special  galleries 
were  provided,  and  this  addition  did  not  in  any  manner  interfere  with 
the  exhibition  of  paintings  and  statuary. 

A  step  forward  at  the  CHICAGO  EXPOSITION. 

A  step  in  the  direction  of  recognizing  industrial  art  as  fine  art  was 
made  at  Chicago,  where  it  was  contended  that  all  art  work  without 
regard  to  the  media  of  its  expression  should  be  regarded  as  fine  art  in. 
])roportion  to  its  strength  in  inspiration  and  in  technique,  but  the  con- 
ditions were  not  ripe  for  this  broadening  of  the  definition  of  fine  art, 
and  it  resulted  only  in  Japan  being  allowed  to  exhibit  certain  examples 
of  applied  art  and  in  exhibits  of  pottery  being  admitted  in  the  French 
and  American  sections.  In  the  exhibition  in  the  Palace  of  Fine  Arts  at 
St.  Louis,  Japan,  England,  France,  Grermany,  Holland,  Belgium,  Aus- 
tria and  other  countries  co-operated  to  adequately  represent  artistic 
craftsmanship,  and  an  opportunity  to  compare  the  results  attained  by 
American  art  workers  with  the  work  of  those  of  other  countries  was 
afforded.  During  the  last  few  years  many  societies  have  been  organized 
by  art  workers  and  this  feature  of  the  exhibit  appealed  to  a  large  class. 

Visitors  at  the  great  fair  were  enabled  to  contemplate  the  art  work  of 


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PIONEER  AUTOMOBILE— This  scene  in  the  Transportation  building  shows  one  of 
the  most  unique  exhibits  in  the  section  devoted  to  early  types  of  locomotives.  What  is 
probably  the  first  attempt  toward  building  an  automobile  bore  fruit  in  this  odd  machine 
propelled  by  steam  power. 


Art  as  Expressed  at  the  Fair  409 

every  important  nation  of  the  world  wherein  art  and  artists  are  acknowl- 
edged factors. 

GRAND  open-air  SCULPTURE  AT  THE  EXPOSITION. 

A  first  feature  of  the  exposition  to  strike  the  lover  of  the  artistic— 
perhaps  after  he  had  admired  to  his  heart's  content  the  sublimity  of 
Masqueray's  titanic  conception  of  design;  its  classic  temples,  palaces, 
forums,  courts  and  plazas,  and  the  incomparable  harmony  of  perspec- 
tives and  bewildering  variety  of  vistas— was  the  open-air  sculpture; 
statuary  reproducing  the  divinities  and  heroes  of  mythology,  and 
expressing  ideas  of  later  times.  Figures  of  heroic  size,  representing 
ancient  and  modern  history,  a  wealth  of  modern  historic  associations 
particularly  symbolic  of  the  progression  of  experience  and  thought, 
illustrative  and  poetic— these  works,  by  American  artists,  were  sugges- 
tive of  the  grandeur  of  antiquity  when  master-hands  created  the  immor- 
tal groups. 

WONDERFUL  CHARACTERISTIC  FIGURES. 

For  characteristic  figures,  the  visitor  needed  but  to  observe  Elsie 
Ward's  work,  George  Eogers  Clark;  Daniel  French's  Napoleon;  Julia 
M.  Bracken's  James  Monroe;  Philip  Martiny's  gorgeous  stone-picture, 
''The  Triumph  of  Apollo";  Bissell's  group,  ''The  Spirit  of  Music"; 
Konti's  "Boy  and  Bear  Cub"  and  his  ornaments  for  the  Cascades  repre- 
senting cherubs  and  dolphins,  and  especially  L.  0.  Lawrie's  great  horse 
group  typifying  Energy.  Each  of  these  was  characteristic,  suggestive, 
inspirational.  To  write  of  them  adequately  would  necessitate  a  volume. 
To  see  them  was  the  chance  of  a  lifetime. 

Of  like  interest  were  Potter's  De  Soto,  Niehaus's  St.  Louis,  Borg- 
lum's  "American  Cowboy  at  Pest,"  and  the  figures  fronting  the  Colon- 
nade of  States.  To  this  beautiful  outdoor  gallery  of  art,  under  the  open 
sky,  with  its  wonderful  parklike  setting,  its  harmonious  backgrounds, 
water  and  landscape  effects,  must  be  ascribed  much  of  the  charm  of  the 
exposition.  It  was  this  assemblage  of  sculpture  which  gave  the  atmos- 
phere of  art  and  of  the  ideal. 

ART    STILL    SURVIVES    MODERN    COMMERCIALISM. 

It  would  be  unfair  perhaps  to  attempt  to  compare  the  exhibits  of  the 
various  countries,  but  it  is  safe  to  say  that  almost  all  of  them  sent  better 


410  Aet  as  Expeessed  at  the  Fair 

collections  than  were  seen  at  Chicago  or  Paris,  and  a  striking  feature  of 
the  exhibition  was  that  a  majority  of  the  paintings  were  of  recent  date, 
proving  by  their  character  that  in  the  strenuous  age  of  iron  and  elec- 
tricity art  still  survives  and  has  a  healthy  growth,  and  artists  still  find 
time  to  step  aside  from  the  bustle  of  commercial  life  and  paint  pictures 
which  do  not  sutler  by  comparison  with  the  work  of  the  great  masters 
whom  the  modern  student  of  art  is  taught  to  revere. 

Belgium's  complete  exhibit  of  later-day  masters. 

In  the  Belgium  exhibit,  for  instance,  250  pictures  were  shown  and 
no  artist  was  represented  by  many  examples  of  his  work.  All  of  the 
work  shown  was  accomplished  since  the  Columbian  exposition  at  Chi- 
cago in  1893  and  most  of  it  since  the  Paris  exposition  of  1900. 

Little  Bielgium,  whose  chief  consequence  in  an  international  sense  is 
its  past,  was  one  of  the  first  among  the  nations  to  respond  enthusias- 
tically to  the  invitation  to  participate  in  the  fine  arts  display  at  the 
world's  fair. 

It  was  the  very  first  to  be  completely  ready  for  the  opening,  and  was 
among  the  very  first  in  the  meaning  and  artistic  value  of  its  art  showing. 

In  the  space  occupied  and  in  the  quality  of  the  pictures  the  works 
of  the  Belgian  artists  were  a  focal  point  of  the  art  galleries.  Ten  rooms 
were  filled  with  their  paintings,  almost  as  much  space  as  was  occupied 
by  France  or  by  Great  Britain  or  by  Germany.  And  the  latter  nations 
devoted  easily  one-half  of  their  respective  divisions  to  sculpture,  to 
architecture  and  to  the  art  crafts,  leaving  the  remainder  only  to  paint- 
ing.   But  Belgian  art  was  illustrated  in  Belgian  painting. 

THE  LAND  OP  PAINTERS. 

This  would  seem  inappropriate.  One  thinks  of  France,  of  Germany 
and  of  Great  Britain— in  the  order  named— -as  the  art-producing  coun- 
tries. So  they  are,  in  a  sense ;  but  Belgium  is  the  land  of  painters.  It 
is  right  then  that  Belgium,  a  dot  upon  the  map  of  Europe,  should  have 
so  prominent  a  place  in  that  department  of  an  exposition  which  is  the 
record  of  contemporary  art. 

The  painting  of  a  picture  for  the  picture's  sake  alone  is  not  encour- 
aged as  it  was  in  centuries  gone.  Commercialism  in  almost  all  parts  of 
the  world  wants  painting,  and  all  art  put  in  the  form  which  serves  a 
commercial  purpose.     Illustration,  decoration  and  the.  various  fields  of 


Art  as  Expeessed  at  the  Fair  411 

the  applied  arts  furnish  profits  to  the  artist,  while,  generally,  painting 
pictures  means  half  rations  in  a  garret.  But  all  this  is  not  so  true  in 
Belgium,  and  in  the  fact  lies  the  broad  significance  of  Belgium's  splen- 
did exhibition  of  paintings  at  the  world's  fair. 

If,  as  is  said,  a  German  is  a  musician  by  virtue  of  his  German  nativ- 
ity, then  a  Belgian  is  a  painter  by  virtue  of  his  Belgian  extraction.  The 
peasant  of  the  fields  often  tries  to  paint,  and  so  does  the  artisan  of  the 
city.  Their  song  is  the  story  of  nature,  as  explained  by  the  brush  upon 
canvas.  They  love  the  picture  for  the  picture 's  sake.  Possibly  it  is  that 
the  guild  spirit  still  lives  in  Belgium,  possibly  it  is  something  inexplica- 
ble which'  characterizes  the  people,  but  appreciation  of  the  painting  is 
more  general  in  Belgium  than  in  any  other  one  nation. 

EMILE  A.  VAUTIER  AND  BELGIAN  ART. 

Belgium's  ten  galleries  were  presided  over  by  Emile  A.  Vautier,  a 
painter  himself,  devoting  his  abilities  chiefly  to  small  portraits;  '' inte- 
riors," he  calls  them.  lie  would  picture  his  subjects,  not  posed  for  the 
occasion  in  the  studio  light,  but  as  they  look  in  the  quiet  light  of  the 
home.  So  are  they  daily  seen  by  those  who  know  them  best,  and  his 
idea  is  to  show  them  thus.  He  was  represented  by  three  pictures  in  the 
exhibit. 

Mr.  Vautier  was  a  very  busy  little  man,  who  enjoyed  a  perfect  sam- 
ple of  the  artist  or  Van  Dyke  beard.  He  was  not  too  busy,  however,  to 
tell  about  Belgium's  paintings.  This  he  did  in  his  busiest  manner  and 
with  a  commendable  hesitancy  in  mentioning  his  own  pictures. 

''We  have,"  he  declared,  ''the  best  display  of  modern  Belgian  work 
which  has  been  collected  into  one  exhibit,  better  and  larger  than  at  Chi- 
cago. ' ' 

His  pronunciation  of  English  was  as  the  American  of  French,  but 
his  confidence  in  the  excellence  of  Belgian  paintings— and  with  reason- 
knew  no  bounds. 

The  only  echo  of  the  "old  masters"  which  pervaded  these  galleries 
was  in  the  mural  decorations,  where  the  names  of  the  Netherlands  list- 
Rubens,  Van  Dyke,  the  Ten  Eycks,  etc.,  were  painted  into  the  frieze. 
Otherwise  it  was  all  of  the  modern. 

SHARP    CONTRASTS   IN    SUBJECTS    AND    TREATMENT. 

One  was  struck  by  sharp  contrasts  between  the  pictures  in  subjects 


412  Aet  as  Expkessed  at  the  Fair 

and  in  the  manner  of  painting.  Beside  a  quiet  and  gray  study,  which 
seemed  distinctly  to  be  of  the  Netherlands  in  character,  would  appear 
a  brilliant  example  of  impressionistic  or  prismatic  work,  hardly  in  tune 
with  one's  conception  of  the  Belgian  method.  Mr.  Vautier  declared  this 
logical,  since  the  Belgium  of  to-day  is  so  closely  in  touch  with  the  great 
capitals  of  Europe  that  the  Belgian  painters  are  influenced  by  the  con- 
tact. 

Though  the  cosmopolitan  trend  of  modern-day  painting  was  illus- 
trated in  this  forcible  manner,  there  was  plenty  that  had  a  national 
appropriateness,  from  which  to  glean  glimpses  of  Belgian  life.  The 
landscapes  were  particularly  interesting,  observed  from  this  point  of 
view, 

THE  PAINTERS  KNOW  COUNTRY  AND  PEOPLE. 

One,  for  instance,  by  Victor  Gilsoul  showed  a  winding  canal,  skirted 
on  either  side  by  a  line  of  tall  trees.  In  perspective,  the  waterway  van- 
ished into  the  distance  where  the  dim  outline  of  a  city— Bruges- 
arose.  The  picture  was  delightfully  cool  and  green,  full  of  the  fertility 
of  those  low,  flat  lands  which  have  supported  large  populations  these 
hundreds  of  years. 

The  picture  showed  that  the  painter  knows  his  own  country  and 
loves  it  well  enough  to  succeed  in  the  interpretation  of  its  simple,  low- 
stretching,  fecund  farm  areas;  or  of  the  quaint,  time-stained,  gray-red 
buildings  of  the  cities.  From  such  studies  as  these  by  Gilsoul,  or  others 
by  Ferdinand  Willaert,  or  by  Franz  Courtens,  one  may  get  into  the 
spirit  of  the  old-old  scenes  of  Belgium  as  well  as  if  time  and  means  had 
permitted  of  a  residence  there. 

In  the  figure  painting  was  to  be  found  something  of  the  same  dif- 
ferences. On  the  one  hand  were  the  productions  of  the  men  who  strive 
for  individualism  and  use  ''strenuous"— the  word  has  application- 
technical  methodSj  far  from  the  native  Dutch  or  Belgian.  On  the  other 
hand  were  the  interpretations  of  the  homely  life  of  the  land,  of  the 
peasant  at  his  work,  of  the  "gute  frau"  in  her  home,  of  the  village, 
wooden-shoed,  busybodies,  gossiping. 

CHARACTER   AS  EXPRESSED   IN    HANDS. 

Among  the  fonner,  the  most  prominent  is  Leempoels.  Next, 
Leveque.  Leempoels  had  one  canvas,  moderately  large,  in  which  out  of 
a  dark  sky  looms  a  stern  but  intellectual  face,  and  upstretch^d  to  the 


Art  as  Expressed  at  the  Fair  413 

face  are  many  hands,  as  if  raised  in  appeal.  Nothing  but  hands  and  the 
face.  It  is  called  '' Destiny  and  Humanity."  There  seem  to  be  hun- 
dreds of  hands,  so  skillfully  is  the  composition  arranged. 

It  is  the  artist's  design  and  pride  that  a  distinct  character  is 
expressed  in  each  pair  of  hands.  He  holds  that  as  much  of  individuality 
belongs  to  the  hand  of  every  man  as  to  the  features  of  the  countenance. 
The  result,  both  as  to  treatment  and  the  subject,  compels  attention,  and 
this  picture  always  had  a  crowd  about  it. 

Among  the  more  literal  painters,  interest  was  divided  between  Lare- 
mans.  Van  der  Ouederac,  Earl  de  Lalaing,  Diercky  and  Vanaise.  Van  der 
Ouderac  shows  something  of  that  excessive  love  for  detail  which 
belonged  to  the  early  Dutch  painters.  He  displayed  one  large  canvas 
which  is  a  careful  representation  of  some  sort  of  Middle  Ages  function. 
The  cavaliers  and  the  court  dames,  the  retainers  and  the  attendants, 
down  to  the  very  gleam  of  the  diamond  upon  milady's  little  finger,  are 
painted  with  a  remarkable  industry  and  a  masterly  skill. 

magnificent   FRENCH   LANDSCAPES   AND   HEROIC    FIGURES. 

The  French  exhibit,  which  occupied  a  suite  of  apartments  begin- 
ning at  the  entrance  of  the  west  wing,  was  particularly  well  arranged, 
several  magnificent  landscapes  and  heroic  figures  catching  the  eye  on 
crossing  the  threshhold.  The  visitor  whether  an  artist,  an  art  patron 
or  an  untutored  lover  of  the  beautiful,  lingered  in  the  first  apartment  a 
long  time  before  being  lured  into  the  adjoining  rooms  by  equally  attrac- 
tive canvases. 

One  landscape  in  the  French  exhibit  which  appealed  particularly  to 
the  laity  was  a  still  pool  in  a  small  stream  running  through  a  deep 
ravine,  overhung  by  the  branches  of  trees  which  grow  close  to  its  brink. 
Foam  flecks  upon  the  pool  show  that  the  stream  is  turbulent  back  among 
the  hills,  and  on  the  still  surface  the  thick  green  leaves  of  water  lilies 
float. 

"Gosh,  but  couldn't  a  feller  catch  fish  in  that  hole,"  said  a  coun- 
tryman, who  stood  before  the  canvas  and  admired  it  for  fully  half  an 
hour.     What  prettier  compliment  could  be  paid  the  artist? 

DEATH  AND  THE  WOODCHOPPER. 

"La  Morte  et  Le  Burcheron,"  by  L.  I'Hermite  was  probably  **the 
picture"  of  the  French  section  of  the  Fine  Arts  building. 


414  Art  as  Expressed  at  the  Fair 

It  was  the  subject  of  much  interest  and  much  favorable  comment  at 
the  installation  of  the  French  works  of  art. 

Its  title  in  English  is  ''Death  and  the  Woodchopper. "  It  is  an  illus- 
tration of  Fontaine's  fable  of  the  same  title.  Its  great  size  and  the 
strength  of  its  figures  commanded  immediate  attention. 

The  fable  relates  that  once  there  was  a  woodchopper  who  was  tired 
of  his  grinding  work-all-the-time  life.  While  carrying  a  heavy  load  of 
wood  one  day,  he  became  so  discouraged  that  he  called  for  death. 

Instantly  Death,  wearing  white  robes,  appeared,  saying  "You  called 
me?" 

The  woodchopper,  so  horrified  that  both  he  and  his  wood  fell  to  the 
ground,  was  quick  with  an  answer,  hoping  that  that  answer  would  give 
him  back  the  life  that  he  had  been  so  anxious  to  discard. 

' '  I  only  wanted  you  to  help  me  with  my  load  of  wood, ' '  replied  the 
woodchopper. 

The  figures  in  PHermite's  pictures  are  life  size.  The  woodchopper 
is  dressed  as  a  French  peasant.  His  trousers  are  of  blue  cotton.  On  his 
feet  are  sabots.    His  shirt  is  dark. 

His  face  shows  the  work  that  has  been  his  life  task.  Big  'furrows 
mark  his  brow  and  cheeks.  His  hair  is  rough  and  seems  almost  to  have 
risen  in  fright  at  the  view  of  Death. 

He  is  shown  as  he  appeared  when  he  fell  to  the  ground,  astonished  at 
the  sudden  answer  to  his  call. 

Behind  him  lies  his  load  of  wood.  The  fagots  are  evenly  cut,  but  are 
still  covered  with  bark  and  look  as  if  they  were  the  small  branches'  of 
trees. 

Death  is  standing.  His  head  is  a  skull,  and  his  robes  of  white  hang 
as  if  they  were  draped  about  a  skeleton.  With  sternness  he  regards  the 
woodchopper. 

HOUSE  or  the  madonna. 

In  the  chamber  beyond  the  one  in  which  this  picture  was  hung  were 
three  pictures  by  M.  Wm.  Dubufe  that  were  much  admired. 

Mr.  Dubufe  is,  a  nephew  of  Gounod,  the  composer.  His  large  cen- 
tral picture  was  "La  Maison  de  la  Vierge,"  or  the  "House  of  the 
Madonna."  The  house  is  a  painting  of  a  little  home  in  Capri.  The 
Madonna  is  walking  down  the  stairs  carrying  her  child.  Both  are  in 
white,  but  over  them  is  a  blue  light. 


Aet  as  Expressed  at  the  Faib  415 

On  one  side  of  the  Madonna  were  portraits  of  M.  Dubufe's  daugh- 
ters, Juliette  and  Mirielle.  Mademoiselle  Mirielle  is  named  for  a  com- 
position of  M.  Gounod,  which  had  much  popularity  in  France. 

On  the  other  side  was  a  portrait  of  the  two  sisters  of  M.  Bouvard. 

BOUGUEEEAU  and  other  FRENCH  MASTERS. 

Lack  of  the  work  of  masters  in  the  French  section  proved  disappoint- 
ing to  some,  despite  the  excellence  of  the  showing.  These  times  of  inces- 
sant and  ubiquitous  expositions  seem  to  have  severely  tried  the  good 
nature  of  French  owners,  who,  in  sheer  self-defense,  may  have  been 
unwilling  to  strip  their  walls  and  run  the  risk  of  damage  or  even  loss. 
Few  of  the  eminent  names  in  the  world  of  art  were  found  in  the  French 
section. 

Bouguereau  was  there  with  his  '^Les  Oreades,"  a  delightful  study, 
where  a  score  of  females  are  seen  taking  flight  at  the  approach  of  a  trio 
of  ugly  centaurs.  The  subject  is  treated  with  the  same  originality  in 
motif  that  has  characterized  all  of  Bouguereau 's  works. 

Then  there  were  some  strong  landscapes  by  Jules  Lefebvre,  an 
exquisite  nature  morte  by  Gruen  J.,  and  a  splendid  war  picture  by  A. 
Block,  which  attracted  a  great  deal  of  attention,  owing  to  the  subject 
and  style  of  treatment.  Studies  from  the  nude  were  plentiful,  and,  as 
in  all  French  exhibitions,  among  the  best. 

Not  alone  in  the  beautiful  art  gallery  and  among  the  forests  of  Euro- 
pean statuary  in  the  Palace  of  Varied  Industries  were  examples  of  high 
art  to  be  found.  Every  state  and  each  foreign  building  of  any  conse- 
quence had  more  or  less  of  a  display  by  favorite  artists.  Many  and 
varied  were  the  subjects  chosen  and  the  vehicles  employed  to  display  the 
artistic  spirit. 

INSPIRATION  FROM  FARM  PRODUCTS. 

A  striking  example  was  found  in  the  Kansas  state  building.  Onions 
and  eggs,  which  usually  appeal  to  the  appetite  rather  than  the  artistic 
temperament,  formed  the  inspiration  for  several  paintings  which  Miss 
C.  M.  Laurent  contributed  to  the  art  gallery  of  that  state  building  at 
the  world's  fair.  From  these  prosaic  subjects  she  executed  some  works 
of  art  that  appealed  to  the  layman  as  pictures  that  are  true  to  nature, 
and  to  art  critics  as  bits  of  work  that  prove  the  painter  an  artist- 
Four  or  five  eggs  broken  in  a  plate,  and  broken  shells  lying  by  a 


416  Art  as  Expeessed  at  the  Fair 

homely  kitchen  vessel  were  so  faithfully  reproduced  on  one  canvas  that 
the  beholder  wondered  why  the  eggs  did  not  run  all  over  the  floor  while 
the  picture  was  tilted  up  against  the  wall  waiting  to  be  hung.  Another 
picture  was  a  dozen  onions  piled  by  a  saucepan,  and  visitors  invariably 
stopped  before  this  little  study  of  still  life  and  looked  at  it  longer  than 
at  much  more  pretentious  paintings  which  hung  near  it. 

KANSAS  AS  AN  ART  CRITIC. 

The  Kansas  building  contained  quite  an  extensive  art  gallery,  in 
which  creditable  water  colors,  oils,  pen  and  ink  drawings  and  charcoal 
sketches  were  shown. 

One  of  the  Kansas  artists  whose  pictures  hung  in  the  state  building 
was  A.  E.  Albright,  whose  work  was  admitted  to  the  Palace  of  Fine 
Arts.  Another  was  John  Noble,  whose  painting  "Cleopatra,"  hanging 
in  the  lobby  of  the  Carey  Hotel  in  "Wichita,  so  wrought  upon  the  feelings 
of  Mrs.  Carrie  Nation  that  she  sent  her  hatchet  through  the  canvas  and 
almost  ruined  it. 

J.  Douglas  Patrick,  who  studied  under  Lefevre,  contributed  to  the 
Kansas  art  gallery  ''Revenues,"  which  won  a  medal  when  it  was  ex- 
hibited in  the  Paris  Salon. 

George  A.  Stone  was  represented  by  several  examples  of  his  work 
in  oil  and  in  water  colors,  which  were  much  admired,  and  Mrs.  Bertha 
Rockwell's  Kansas  cornfields  in  water  colors  were  excellent.  Miss 
Charlotte  Schenk,  Miss  Miranne  A.  Aiken,  Miss  Pansy  Dawes,  Miss 
Cora  B.  Gould,  J.  D.  Patch,  Miss  Mary  E.  Delahay,  Miss  Edith  Far- 
rell  and  Mrs.  W.  A.  Canfield  were  each  represented  by  several  paint- 
ings, and  C.  D.  Paulus  exhibited  charcoal  sketches  and  clay  modeling. 

The  pictures  in  the  Kansas  building  were  hung  by  Mrs.  C.  F.  W. 
Dassler,  who  was  appointed  by  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  Com- 
mittee of  Kansas  to  supervise  the  interior  decoration  of  the  building, 
Mrs.  Dassler  planned  the  decorations  and  selected  furniture  for  the 
entire  building,  and  Kansas  was  represented  by  one  of  the  most  at- 
tractive and  artistic  buildings  in  the  Plateau  of  States. 

What  was  true  of  Kansas  in  this  connection  was  equally  true  of 
many  other  states.  The  description  given  of  its  art  display  merely 
illustrates  how  universal  and  excellent  was  the  effort  in  that  direction. 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 
THE,    ART    PALACE,    AND    ITS    GEMS 

Description  of  the  Palace  of  Fine  Arts — Professor  Halsey  C.  Ives  in  Charge — Assistants 
in  the  Art  Department — Great  Britain's  Art  Exhibit — Masterpieces  by  Millais, 
Leighton,  Burne- Jones  and  Others — Works  by  Germany's  Great  Artists — Huge 
Speaking  Portraits  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress — Janssen's  Overpowering  Revolu- 
tionary Bcene — In  the  Realm  of  German  Statuary — Fine  Display  of  Dutch  Water 
Colors — Italy's  Rare  Paintings — Mexico's  Portraits  of  Americans — Usual  Dainty 
Japanese  Exhibit — Filipino  Artists'  Work  Shown — Exhibit  Made  by  the  United 
States. 

THE  Palace  of  Fine  Arts,  one  of  the  few  permanent  buildings  on 
the  exposition  grounds,  was  located  on  Art  Hill,  directly  south  of 
the  Terrace  of  States  and  sixty  feet  above  the  general  grade.  Because 
of  its  color  and  architecture,  which  rendered  it  out  of  harmony  with 
the  general  scheme  of  the  fair,  it  was  screened  from  view  by  Festi- 
val Hall.  It  was  a  fire-proof  structure,  consisting  of  four  pavilions,  so 
arranged  as  to  form  a  letter  E. 

DESCEIPTION  OF  THE  PAIACE  OF  FINE  ARTS. 

The  central  building  is  permanent,  being  made  of  brick  and  Bedford 
stone,  and  after  the  exposition  it  was  occupied  by  the  St.  Louis  Museum 
of  Fine  Arts,  The  central  pavilion,  the  east  pavilion  and  part  of  the 
west  pavilion  were  occupied  by  exhibits  of  paintings,  engravings,  small 
sculptures  and  examples  of  applied  art.  A  sculpture  pavilion  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Palace  of  Arts  completed  a  quadrangle  surrounding  a 
garden  with  statuary  fountains  and  ornamental  plants.  The  three  prin- 
cipal buildings  were  designed  by  Cass  Gilbert  of  New  York.  The  sculp- 
ture pavilion  was  designed  by  E.  L.  Masqueray,  Chief  of  Designs  of 
the  Exposition. 

Aside  from  the  regular  exhibits  of  countries,  a  loan  exhibit,  devoted 
especially  to  interesting  works  borrowed  from  institutions  and  private 
galleries  and  representing  any  period  in  the  history  of  art,  was  shown  in 
the  Central  Pavilion.    Ample  space  was  allotted  to  this  exhibition,  and 

417 


418  The  Aet  Palace  and  Its  Gems 

as    only    masterpieces   were    accepted,    it    proved    a    most    interesting 
feature  of  the  art  exhibit. 

PEOFESSOK  HALSEY   C.  IVES  IN   CHAKGE. 

The  task  of  installing  the  exhibits  in  the  Palace  of  Fine  Arts  was 
under  the  supervision  of  Professor  lialsey  C.  Ives  of  St.  Louis,  who 
was  assisted  by  Charles  M.  Kurtz.  Professor  Ives  was  born  at  Montour 
Falls,  N.  Y.,  in  1847.  He  studied  art  in  this  and  other  countries.  One 
of  his  instructors  abroad  was  the  Polish  artist,  Platowski.  Professor 
Ives  attended  lectures  at  South  Kensington  Museum  in  London,  and  on 
numerous  visits  abroad  familiarized  himself  with  the  great  collections 
of  Europe.  He  has  devoted  considerable  attention  to  landscape  painting 
and  portrait  work.  In  1847  he  became  an  instructor  in  the  polytechnic 
department  of  Washington  University  in  St.  Louis.  He  was  soon  made 
a  member  of  the  faculty  of  the  institution. 

Through  Professor  Ives '  instrumentality  the  St.  Louis  School  of  Fine 
Arts  was  established,  and  he  was  made  its  director.  When,  in  1881,  the 
St.  Louis  Museum  of  Fine  Arts  was  established  he  was  placed  in  charge 
of  it.  He  has  been  connected  with  five  expositions  in  an  executive  or 
advisory  capacity,  and  for  many  years  has  been  in  touch  with 
the  art  world  of  Europe,  as  well  as  America.  For  his  services  in  pro- 
moting the  interests  of  art  Professor  Ives  was  decorated  with  the 
''Order  of  the  Vasa"  by  King  Oscar  of  Sweden  and  Norway  and  the 
''Order  of  the  Dannerborg"  by  King  Christian  of  Denmark.  The  gov- 
ernments of  Germany,  France  and  Japan  have  commended  him. 

ASSISTANTS  IN  THE  ART  DEPAETMENT. 

Charles  M.  Kurtz,  Assistant  Chief  of  the  Art  Department,  occupied 
a  similar  position  at  the  Columbian  exposition  at  Chicago.  He  was 
graduated  in  1876  from  the  Washington  and  Jefferson  College  of  Penn- 
sylvania and  studied  art  at  the  National  Academy  of  Design.  Mr.  Kurtz 
has  also  had  experience  in  journalism  on  the  editorial  staff  of  several 
New  York  papers.  He  was  a  director  of  the  St.  Louis  Art  Exposition 
from  1894  to  1899,  advisor  of  the  Department  of  Art  at  the  Omaha 
exposition,  and  Assistant  Director  of  Fine  Arts  of  the  United  States 
Commission  at  Paris  in  1900. 

Oeorge  Julian  Zolnay,  who  modeled  the  statues  at  the  main  entrance 
of  the  Palace  of  Transportation,  and  who  is  known  in  America  and 


The  Aet  Palace  and  Its  Gems  419 

Europe  as  a  sculptor,  was  Superintendent  of  Sculpture  in  the  Depart- 
ment of  Art. 

Frederick  Willielm  Sandberg,  Superintendent  of  the  Applied  Art 
Section,  studied  in  Munich,  Berlin  and  Paris,  and  was  a  member  of  the 
International  Jury  of  Awards  at  the  Paris  exposition. 

All  who  have  become  familiar  with  the  art  exhibit  of  the  Louisiana 
Purchase  Exposition  agree  that  it  will  be  said  in  years  to  come  that  in 
the  Louisiana  Purchase— west  of  the  Mississippi  River— there  was 
assembled  in  1904  the  greatest  collection  of  works  of  art  that  had  ever 
been  seen  at  an  international  exposition. 

GREAT  Britain's  art  exhibit. 

Great  Britain  seemed  to  have  made  a  greater  elTort  even  than  for  the 
memorable  exhibit  at  Brussels  in  1897.  The  walls  of  the  British  sec- 
tion were  elaborately  decorated  with  designs  and  friezes  where  the  rose, 
thistle  and  shamrock  were  conspicuous  among  the  general  scheme  of 
intertwining  shields  and  scrolls  of  foliage. 

The  exhibit  was  fairly  representative  of  the  state  of  art  in  Great 
Britain  and  Ireland,  and  in  the  British  empire  generally  during  the  last 
decade.  It  was  considered  the  best,  largest  and  most  important  that  has 
ever  been  sent  from  Great  Britain  to  any  exposition.  Leighton,  Millais 
and  Burne-Jones  were  represented,  and  their  works  were  among  the 
most  admired. 

masterpieces  by  millais,  leighton,  burne-jones  and  others. 

Sir  J.  E.  Millais'  "Chill  October,"  proved  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
artist's  great  individuality.  It  is  a  view  of  the  Tay,  representing  a 
backwater,  with  a  fringe  of  reeds  along  the  bank  in  the  foreground;  in 
the  middle  distance  is  a  spit  of  land  covered  with  willows. 

In  his  "Homeric  Hymn  to  Aphrodite,"  Briton  Eiviere  showed  an 
exquisitely  beautiful  woman,  a  laughter-loving  goddess,  coming  down 
Ida's  mount  with  the  gray  wolf,  the  bear  and  the  lion  in  her  train.  Lord 
Leighton 's  ' '  Perseus  and  Pegasus  with  the  Head  of  Medusa, ' '  also  came 
in  for  a  considerable  deal  of  attention. 

One  of  the  more  important  paintings,  however,  was  Sir  Edward 
Burne-Jones'  masterful  crystallization  of  "The  Dream  of  Launcelot  at 
the  Chapel  of  the  San  Grael. "  Launcelot  is  asleep,  leaning  against  a 
well-head,  his  shield  hanging  on  a  withered  tree,  beside  which  stands 


420  The  Aet  Palace  and  Its  Gems 

his  horse;  on  the  right  appears  an  angel  through  the  door  of  the  chapel 
of  San  Grael.  Another  picture  by  the  same  artist  was  a  three-quarter 
length  figure  of  a  girl  in  deep  blue  dress  entitled  "Famma  Vestalis." 

Attractive  because  of  their  classic  outlines  were  the  figures  of  Hen- 
rietta Rae,  entitled  ''The  Sirens."  It  was  one  of  the  few  studies  from 
the  nude  to  be  seen  in  the  British  section.  A  powerful  work  was  the 
portrait  of  Sir  Walter  Gilbey,  by  W.  Q.  Orchardson.  The  collection  of 
water  colors,  sketches  and  etchings  in  the  British  section  was  found 
equally  interesting,  showing  that  Great  Britain  had  made  her  best  effort 
to  contribute  what  it  considered  the  art  representative  of  the  British 
empire. 

WORKS  BY  Germany's  great  artists. 

A  remarkably  strong  exhibit,  quantitatively  and  qualitatively,  was 
to  be  seen  in  the  German  section.  In  every  department  was  displayed 
the  ambition  of  German  artists  and  societies  as  well  as  the  German 
national  institutions  to  show  ''their  kin  beyond  the  water"  what  great 
things  have  been  produced  in  the  fatherland.  Celebrated  paintings  were 
loaned  by  the  Pinacothek  of  Munich  and  the  National  gallery  of  Berlin. 
Even  the  Emperor  stripped  his  walls  of  two  of  his  most  valuable  pic- 
tures for  the  occasion,  while  sculptors  contributed  statuary  of  bronze 
and  marble  worth  millions  of  marks. 

Entire  walls  were  occupied  by  the  colossal  paintings  of  Anton  von 
Werner,  Arthur  Kampf,  Peter  Janssen,  and  Fritz  August  Kaulbach, 
and  every  inch  of  the  endless  flight  of  rooms  was  covered  with  canvases 
of  well-known  artists,  such  as  Defregger,  Keller,  Menzel,  Gysis  and  Len- 
bach. 

huge  speaking  portraits  of  the  emperor  and  empress. 

Conspicuous  on  the  walls  flanking  the  main  entrance  were  the  huge 
portraits  of  the  Emperor,  on  the  left,  and  the  Empress,  with  her  young- 
est child,  on  the  right.  In  the  picture  shown  the  Emperor  stands  in  an 
imposing  attitude  before  a  golden  throne  clad  in  the  uniform  of  the 
cuirassiers,  with  the  long  mantle  of  ermine  flowing  from  his  shoulders. 
The  painting  is  by  Ferdinand  Keller,  and  proved  worthy  of  the  highest 
praise. 

Kaulbach  is  the  artist  for  whom  the  Empress  posed.  The  master 
was  particularly  fortunate  in  this  picture,  and  the  expression  of  impe- 
rial dignity  in  Augusta 's  face  is  cleverly  softened  by  that  smile  of  moth- 


The  Aet  Palace  and  Its  Gems  421 

erly  tenderness  and  affection  making  lier  so  well  beloved  among  her 
subjects. 

Defregger  was  represented  by  a  number  of  paintings,  prominent 
among  which  was  "Das  letzte  Augfgebot, "  picturing  an  exciting  scene 
from  the  French  war  in  the  Tyrol.  Three  colossal  paintings  which  were 
exhibited  by  Anton  von  Werner  are  works  of  the  highest  art.  One  rep- 
resents the  scene  of  the  Berlin  congress  in  1878,  showing  all  the  well- 
known  diplomats  engaged  in  discussing  the  Oriental  question.  The 
other  is  a  pathetic  ceremony  dej)icting  William  II,  at  the  head  of  his 
staff,  congratulating  the  great  field  marshal.  Von  Moltke,  on  his  90th 
anniversary.  The  third  painting  shows  a  scene  at  the  deathbed  of  Wil- 
liam I. 

janssen's  ovekpo weeing  eevolutionaky  scene. 

Overpowering  was  the  effect  of  Peter  Janssen's  great  revolutionary 
scene— an  excited  monk  on  horseback  preaching  to  a  frenzied  mob,  armed 
with  axes,  knives  and  scythes.  The  figures  are  life  size,  and  the  compo- 
sition promises  to  make  the  painting  a  leader  among  contemporary  com- 
positions. Arthur  Kampf's  "Aufruf^  was  also  a  painting  of  enormous 
dimensions,  distinguished  by  a  fine  execution  of  detail  and  bearing  the 
stamp  of  this  famous  artist's  great  personality. 

Adolph  von  W^enzel  was  represented  by  two  of  his  most  famous  cre- 
ations :  ' '  The  Workshop ' '  and  ' '  Emperor  William  I 's  Departure  for  the 
Seat  of  War  (1870)."  A  portrait  of  Prince  Bismarck,  by  Franz  von 
Lenbach,  was  loaned  by  its  owner,  Adolphus  Busch,  and  counts  among 
the  best  works  of  ^ '  the  only  Bismarck  painter. ' '  It  would  be  impossible 
to  mention  all  the  merits  of  the  better-known  canvases  that  were  shown 
in  this  exhibit;  there  were  Scheuernburg 's  "Mary,"  Hollenberg's  "Car- 
dinal," sea  scenes  by  Hans  von  Bartels,  "The  Concert,"  by  Feuerbach, 
and  many  more. 

IN  THE  EEALiM  OP  GEEMAN  STATUAEY. 

Prominent  among  the  statuary  were  Fritz  Heinemann  's  $50,000  bronze 
statue  of  Cain,  a  group  of  "Adam  and  Eve"  in  white  marble,  by  Peter 
Breuer ;  a  Bismarck  bust  in  marble,  by  Begas,  and  Hoesel  's  bronze  rider, 
"The  Hun." 

Begas'  great  sarcophagus  group  seemed  to  be  the  piece  de  resistance 
of  recent  expositions.  It  has  seen  four  or  five  of  them  in  the  last  decade, 
and  was  always  very  much  admired.    "Hermes  Counting  Money"  and 


422  The  Aet  Palace  and  Its  Gems 

' '  Pan  and  Psyche, ' '  by  the  same  master,  proved  creations  of  pronounced 
merit,  owing  to  the  classic  symmetry  of  outline  and  fine  composition. 

EIJSTE  DISPLA.Y  OF  DUTCH  WATEK  COLOES. 

Quite  a  revelation  was  the  exhibit  of  the  Dutch  artists.  Particularly 
attractive  was  the  fine  collection  of  water  colors,  mostly  from  the  brushes 
of  Bastert,  Schillot,  Witsent  and  Mastenbrook.  A  very  effectual  snow 
scene  was  that  of  Louis  W.  V.  Soest,  while  a  typical  Amsterdam  street 
scene  was  pictured  in  the  painting  by  Chatering.  Portraits  were  exhib- 
ited by  M.  Schwarze  and  Hubert  Vos,  and  a  number  of  landscapes  of  the 
impressionist  school  by  Wilen  Maris. 

Italy's  eaee  paintings. 

Italy  did  not  perhaps  come  up  to  expectation  in  statuary  work  in  the 
Fine  Arts  Palace  display,  but  exhibited  a  number  of  paintings  of  rare 
merit.  A  creation  of  great  sincerity  was  E.  Forti's  "Poppea  at  An- 
tium,"  just  as  she  is  about  to  enter  a  sumptuously  decorated  booth.  It 
is  a  gorgeous  picture,  in  which  the  artist  evidently  has  given  his  best. 
A  woman's  portrait  by  Carlo  Ferrari  was  a  masterpiece  of  characteriza- 
tion indicative  of  great  power.  A  really  splendid  painting  of  the  impres- 
sionist kind  was  exhibited  by  Ruggero  Forcardi,  picturing  a  gardener 
sprinkling  trees. 

Mexico's  poeteaits  of  ameeicans. 

Among  the  first  of  the  countries  to  get  its  pictures  hung  was  Mexico. 
Among  them  were  portraits  of  George  Washington,  Abraham  Lincoln, 
Chester  Arthur,  Grover  Cleveland,  William  McKinley  and  Theodore 
Eoosevelt,  painted  by  Jose  Escudero  y  Esperonceda. 

USUAL  dainty  JAPANESE  EXHIBIT. 

Japan  had  the  kind  of  exhibit  it  had  at  Chicago  and  Paris.  The  same 
little  bits  of  bronze  statuary  and  crockery  daintily  arranged  in  glass 
cases.  Silk  embroideries  and  paintings  on  silk,  showing  the  scrupulous 
delicacy  of  treatment  characteristic  of  the  thrifty,  belligerent  Japanese. 

Decided  progress  was  shown  in  the  modern  paintings  by  K.  Nahagara, 
depicting  a  Japanese  woman  on  the  high  road,  carrying  her  child  on  her 
back.  The  work  is  indeed  to  be  appreciated.  A  street  scene  by  M.  Koba- 
jashi,  and  an  impressionist  portrayal  of  a  number  of  pretty  Geishas  by 
Shirataki  were  among  the  best  of  the  collection. 


The  Art  Palace  and  Its  Gems  423 

FILIPINO  artists'  WORK  SHOWN. 

A  collection  of  paintings  by  native  Filipino  artists,  shown  in  the  art 
gallery  of  the  Philippine  government  exhibit,  offered  a  graphic  story  of 
the  Spanish  dynasty,  the  war  which  wrought  its  downfall  and  the  new 
authority  of  the  United  States. 

One  of  the  canvases  of  large  size  depicted  the  death  of  Gen.  Lawton, 
a  wonderfully  exact  reproduction,  according  to  soldiers  who  were  at  the 
scene  of  death. 

The  old  Spanish  regime  was  represented  by  a  group  of  Queen  Isa- 
belle  and  the  baby  king,  Alfonso,  a  canvas  of  the  boy  King  Alfonso,  and 
several  portraits  of  Spanish  governors  and  generals  in  the  Philippines. 

The  new  authority  was  personated  by  portraits  of  President  Roose- 
velt and  Secretary  Taft,  while  the  most  impressive  picture  of  native  life 
represented  "Moros  on  Guard  at  Tomb  of  Chieftain." 

EXHIBIT  MADE  BY  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

The  galleries  of  the  United  States  section  contained  examples  of  the 
work  of  nearly  every  prominent  artist  in  this  country,  selected  by  juries 
in  New  York,  Boston,  Philadelphia  and  other  art  centers.  Among  the 
notable  works  in  the  United  States  exhibit  were  a  large  group  portrait 
of  the  Misses  Hunter  by  John  S.  Sargent,  which  was  the  principal  fea- 
ture of  the  exhibition  of  the  Society  of  American  Artists ;  a  collection  of 
portraits  by  John  W.  Alexander;  a  comprehensive  exhibit  of  the  works 
of  the  late  J.  McNeil  Whistler,  and  examples  of  the  work  of  such  artists 
as  Horatio  Walker,  D.  W.  Tyron,  T.  W.  Dewing,  J.  Francis  Murphy, 
Charles  Melville  Dewey,  R.  Swayne  Gifford^  William  M.  Chase,  Cecelia 
Beaux,  Frederick  S.  Church,  William  H.  Low,  J.  Carroll  Beckwith, 
Eastman  Johnson,  Gari  J.  Melchers,  Walter  McEwan,  Charles 
Sprague  Pearce,  Jules  Stewart,  Kenyon  Cox,  Irving  R.  Wiles  a'nd 
George  H.  Bogart.  George  Inness,  A.  H.  Wyant,  Homer  Martin,  J.  H. 
Twachtman  and  other  American  artists,  who  have  recently  died,  were 
well  represented.  The  United  States  conformed  to  the  general  plan 
upon  which  the  art  exhibits  were  organized,  that  is,  of  presenting  the 
best  work  of  modern  artists  especially  typical  of  distinct  phases  of 
contemporaneous  art. 


424  The  Art  Palace  and  Its  Gems 

The  exhibits  of  the  United  States  section  were  classed  under  three 
heads :  First,  a  contemporaneous  division,  in  which  were  shown  works 
produced  since  the  Chicago  exposition  in  1893,  and  in  which  all  ex- 
hibits were  in  competition  for  awards,  consisting  of  gold,  silver  and 
bronze  medals  and  a  Grand  Prize.  Second,  a  retrospective  division, 
which  included  work  produced  between  1803,  the  year  of  the  Louisiana 
Purchase,  and  1893.  Third,  a  loan  division,  devoted  to  especially  in- 
teresting works  borrowed  from  institutions  and  private  owners,  which 
represented  any  period  in  the  history  of  art  and  included  only  master- 
works  of  the  highest  artistic  character. 

Twenty  foreign  governments  applied  for  space  in  the  Art  Palace, 
as  follows:  France,  Germany,  Great  Britain,  Holland,  Belgium,  Rus- 
sia, Spain,  Italy,  Austria,  Japan,  Mexico,  Canada,  Hungary,  Sweden, 
Denmark,  Norway,  Cuba,  Brazil,  Argentina  and  Greece.  Space  for 
national  sections  was  assigned  to  seventeen  of  this  number.  Applica- 
tions for  space  exceeded  by  forty  per  cent  the  total  amount  available 
in  the  four  pavilions  of  the  Art  Palace. 

OFFICE  DECOEATED  WITH  WORTHLESS  BANK  NOTES. 

Far  removed  from  the  field  of  art  in  the  accepted  sense  of  the  term, 
yet  not  the  least  interesting  exhibit  from  that  standpoint,  was  a  dis- 
play of  bank  notes  of  many  varieties  and  marvelous  workmanship. 
Many  visitors  held  that  one  of  the  saddest  sights  of  the  world's  fair 
was  in  the  office  of  the  Souvenir  Coin  Department  in  the  Administration 
building,  where  Farran  Zerbe,  chief  of  the  department,  used  for  the 
decoration  of  his  office  $100,000  in  bank  notes. 

The  tragic  feature  of  the  display  was  that  every  note  in  the  collec- 
tion was  worthless  and  represented  some  of  the  currency  of  banks  that 
have  failed. 

There  were  about  4,000  bank  notes  in  the  collection,  with  an  average 
value  each  of  $25.    They  ranged  all  the  way  from  $2  to  $100. 


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CHAPTER    XXX. 
FOREIGN    BUILDINGS    AND    EXHIBITS 

Gobelin  Tapestries  in  the  French  Pavilion— Wisp  of  Napoleon's  Hair— Germany's  Build- 
ing, a  Second  Charlottenburg  Castle — The  Emperor's  Presents  Exhibited^Model  Ger- 
man Country  Home — Orangery  of  Kensington  Palace  Reproduced- Description  of  the 
British  Building— Ireland  on  the  Pike — Old  Eoman  Architecture  of  Italian  Building- 
Morocco  First  Represented  at  an  Exposition — Sweden's  Building  Described — Domestic 
Exhibits  in  Holland's  Pavilion— Queen  Wilhelmina's  Skates  and  Dolls— Windmills  in 
Famous  Delft  Ware — Belgium's  Old  Flemish  Building— New  Zealand  at  the  Fair- 
Austria's  Exposition  Building— Magnificent  Uniform  of  Hungarian  Commissioner. 

NEARLY  all  foreign  countries  of  any  consequence  were  represented 
at  tlie  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  by  buildings  in  wbicb  were 
contained  more  or  less  unique  exhibitions  not  to  be  seen  elsewhere.  For 
instance,  priceless  Gobelin  tapestries  that  during  the  reign  of  Louis 
XIV  hung  on  the  walls  of  the  Grand  Trianon  at  Versailles,  were  sus- 
pended on  the  walls  of  the  historic  palace's  replica,  which  was  the 
French  Government's  pavilion  at  the  world's  fair. 

GOBELIN   TAPESTRIES   IN    THE    PEENCH    PAVILION. 

The  tapestries  were  brought  to  St.  Louis  from  the  Garde  Meuble 
Museum,  in  Paris  and  were  used  for  the  decoration  of  the  Hall  of  State, 
which  was  furnished  entirely  in  the  style  of  the  time  of  the  Grand  Mon- 
arch, even  to  the  candelabra  and  the  door  and  window  fittings. 

Although  silk  and  metal  alone  were  used  in  the  weaving  of  the  tapes- 
tries, so  exquisite  is  the  work  on  them  that  they  have  all  the  appearance 
of  paintings.  Woven  into  the  fabric,  at  the  bottom  of  each  of  the  costly 
hangings,  was  the  title  of  the  scene  represented  on  it. 

The  scenes  were  as  follows:  Coats  of  arms  of  Louis  XIV,  siege  of 
Douay,  in  1666,  when  a  cannon  ball  shot  from  the  beleaguered  city  killed 
a  horse  of  the  bodyguard  of  the  King  as  he  emerged  from  a  trench;  an 
audience  given  by  Louis  at  Fontainebleu  to  Cardinal  Chigi,  nephew  and 
ambassador  of  Pope  Alexandria  XII,  July  29,  1664 ;  entry  of  Louis  XIV 
into  Dunkirk,  December  12,  1662,  after  wresting  the  city  from  the 
English. 

433 


434  Foreign  Buildings  and  Exhibits 

WISP  OF  napoleon's  hair  in  a  glass  case. 

To  view  these  treasures  in  this  transplanted  duplicate  of  the  great 
Napoleon 's  favorite  residence  was  in  itself  an  inspiring  experience.  The 
hairs  of  Napoleon  Bonaparte's  head  were  numbered  with  the  Napo- 
leonic trophies  shown. 

A  little  wisp  of  the  famous  Corsican's  hair  was  contributed  by  Mrs. 
Archibald  Hopkins  of  Washington,  D.  C.  It  is  an  heirloom  from  her 
grandfather,  Edward  Everett,  who  secured  it  from  Lucien  Bonaparte 
while  United  States  minister  to  England. 

The  Napoleon  hair  was  encased  in  a  small  glass  case,  as  it  is  highly 
treasured.  It  is  quite  light,  with  a  red  tinge.  This  is  explained  by  the 
fact  that  time  frequently  changes  the  color  of  dark  hair,  often  giving  it 
a  light,  reddish  appearance. 

SIMPLE  DEDICATION   OF   FRENCH   PAVILION. 

There  was  something  particularly  striking  in  the  simple  dedication 
of  the  beautiful  miniature  palace  on  ground  once  the  property  of  France. 
Commissioner-General  Lagrave  officiated  and  the  ceremony  was  attended 
by  300  French  workmen  and  mechanics  and  the  French  commissioners 
to  the  fair. 

K.  Lagrave  addressed  the  workmen,  thanking  them  for  their  labors 
and  alluding  to  the  fact  that  the  fair  was  built  on  soil  once  owned  by 
France,  and  that  the  French  building  occupied  one  of  the  most  choice 
sites  at  the  exposition.  The  latter  victory  he  toasted,  and  all  the  French 
party  assembled  drank  to  their  building  site  in  champagne.  They  then 
burst  loyally  into  singing  the  ''Marseillaise." 

Not  only  was  the  French  pavilion  in  itself  a  beautiful  sight,  but  the 
same  was  true  of  the  spacious  grounds  surrounding  it,  contributing  a 
soothing,  restful  atmosphere.  These  grounds  were  15  acres  in  extent. 
Only  one  jarring  note  marred  the  installation  of  this  appropriate  con- 
tribution to  the  architecture  of  the  exposition.  Vandals  entered  the 
French  pavilion  at  the  dead  of  night,  before  it  was  thrown  open  to  the 
public,  and  smashed  two  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  Parisian  marble 
figures  in  the  sculpture  exhibit.  ''L'Etoile  du  Berger"  (The  Shep- 
herd's Star),  done  by  Eousel,  and  one  of  the  most  exquisite  pieces  in 
the  exhibit,  was  thrown  to  the  floor  and  destroyed,  as  was  the  "St.  Jean" 
of  Dubois. 


FoEEiGN  Buildings  and  Exhibits  435 

The  French  had  also  to  complain  to  the  exposition  management  of 
the  theft  of  several  beautiful  imported  rose  trees  from  their  garden. 

GERMANY  ^S  BUILDING  A  SECOND  CHAELOTTENBURG  CASTLE. 

Overlooking  the  main  picture  of  the  exposition  and  a  conspicuous 
figure  from  every  part  of  the  grounds  was  the  magnificent  structure 
designed  by  Emperor  William  to  represent  Germany  at  the  world 's  fair. 
It  was  located  well  up  on  a  large  hill,  from  the  crest  of  which  leapt  the 
beautiful  Cascades  and  about  which  were  clustered  the  most  important 
landscape -features.  The  imposing  building  was  a  partial  reproduction 
of  the  famous  Charlottenburg  castle,  erected  by  Frederick  I  of  Prussia 
at  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century.  Surrounding  it  an  exact  dupli- 
cate of  the  Charlottenburg  gardens  stretched  away,  styled  after  photo- 
graphs of  the  original  and  containing  many  rare  plants  and  shrubs  bor- 
rowed from  the  original  garden  near  Berlin.  Two  stories  were  con- 
tained in  the  main  facade  of  the  castle,  and  towering  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  above  arose  a  graceful  dome,  equipped  with  chimes,  which 
could  be  heard  over  a  large  portion  of  the  grounds. 

THE  EMPEROR  ^S  PRESENTS  EXHIBITED. 

Nearly  all  the  furniture  and  furnishings  were  of  great  historic  value 
and  were  loaned  by  the  German  Emperor.  A  special  train  was  char- 
tered to  transport  the  treasures  to  St.  Louis  on  their  arrival  at  New 
York.  They  included  fifty-two  enormous  boxes,  seventeen  of  which  con- 
tained solid  silver  articles  which  were  presented  to  the  German  Emperor 
on  the  occasion  of  his  marriage,  February  27,  1881. 

Among  the  most  noted  pieces  was  a  table  ornament  representing  a 
sailing  vessel,  symbolic  of  the  united  cities  of  Prussia  tendering  con- 
gratulations.   This  piece  weighed  200  pounds. 

In  addition  to  this  there  were  two  large  candelabra,  with  seventeen 
branches  each,  two  wine  coolers  and  two  bumpers  with  allegories  of  the 
goddess  of  hunting.  This  silver  is  used  only  at  the  German  court  at 
great  functions,  and  is  seldom  otherwise  displayed. 

The  four  rooms  of  the  pavilion  contained  furniture  which  for  the 
last  200  years  has  been  kept  in  the  Castle  of  Charlottenburg,  and  was 
the  property  of  the  first  Prussian  King,  Frederick  I. 


436  Foreign  Buildings  and  Exhibits 

the  olbeich  pavilion,  or  model  country  home. 

Of  scarcely  less  interest  was  the  Olbricli  pavilion— also  a  Grerman 
contribution  to  the  fair— located  in  the  court  of  the  Palace  of  Varied 
Industries.  This  structure  was  absolutely  modern  and  built  after  origi- 
nal ideas.  The  idea  was  conceived  by  Professor  Joseph  Olbrich  of 
Darmstadt.  It  is  best  described  as  the  country  home  of  a  rich  man,  who 
is  a  lover  of  art  and  spares  no  expense  to  gratify  his  tastes. 

The  house  was  built  so  as  to  serve  as  a  summer  and  winter  home. 
The  different  rooms  were  finished  and  furnished  by  various  German 
firms.  Each  room  was  completed  after  the  idea  of  the  artist  who 
designed  it.  Even  the  slightest  details  of  the  artist  were  followed,  such 
as  new  and  unique  designs  for  flower  pots  and  match  safes.  The  builder 
was  not  permitted  to  change  the  plans  in  the  slightest  degree. 

A  REFRESHING  RESTING  SPOT. 

Built  around  a  large  court  with  rippling  fountains  playing  around 
beautiful  statuary,  basins  of  sparkling  water  surrounded  by  green  grass, 
shrubbery  and  blooming  flowers,  was  a  large  porch  which  extended 
around  three  sides  of  the  court.  The  rooms  of  the  house  opened  onto 
the  porch.  All  of  them  were  finished  with  richly  inlaid  woods,  preserv- 
ing their  native  colors.  The  walls  were  decorated  with  silk  and  satin, 
richly  blended  with  the  woods.  The  colors  were  perfectly  harmonious, 
although  two  shades  of  the  same  color  were  often  used  in  producing  the 
desired  effects. 

The  rare  statuary  scattered  about  the  pavilion  was  the  property  of 
the  Grand  Duke  of  Hesse  and  he  loaned  it  to  the  German  Commission 
for  use  in  the  Olbrich  Pavilion.  Prince  and  Princess  Hohenlohe-Schil- 
lingfuerst  were  the  guests  of  honor  at  the  dedication  ceremonies. 

ORANGERY  OF   KENSINGTON   PALACE   REPRODUCED. 

The  main  part  of  the  British  Building  at  the  exposition  and  its  main 
hall  were  a  reproduction  of  the  Orangery  or  banqueting  hall  in  Ken- 
sington Palace,  London,  where  the  late  Queen  Victoria  was  born,  where 
she  received  notification  of  her  accession  to  the  throne,  met  the  Prince 
Consort  and  was  wooed  by  him. 

The  Orangery  was  originally  designed  for  a  greenhouse,  and  since 
it  was  built,  two  hundred  years  ago,  has  never  been  surpassed  as  a  speci- 


Foreign  Buildings  and  Exhibits  437 

men  of  garden  architecture.  It  was  not  only  a  treasure  house  for  Queen 
Victoria's  choicest  plants  and  flowers,  but  a  place  where  the  Queen  and 
her  favored  attendants  delighted  to  retire  and  indulge  in  quiet  confer- 
ence or  in  a  dainty  luncheon. 

DESCEIPTION  or  THE  BRITISH  BUILDING. 

The  reproduction  at  the  world's  fair  occupied  a  space  of  170  feet  3 
inches  by  122  feet.  The  banqueting  hall  extended  the  entire  length  of 
the  building.  It  was  24  feet  wide  and  was  terminated  at  either  end  by 
a  beautiful  circular  apartment  24  feet  in  diameter.  The  interior  of  this 
hall,  which  was  also  a  reproduction  of  that  in  London,  showed  fluted, 
engaged  Corinthian  columns  around  the  walls,  supporting  a  highly 
ornate  cornice.  All  the  outside  columns  were  Doric  with  transverse 
channelings.  Niches  for  statues  broke  up  the  wall  surface  of  the  ban- 
queting hall. 

Behind  the  banqueting  hall  was  an  inner  court  inclosed  on  four  sides. 
A  Doric  colonnade  of  ten  high  columns  closed  the  court  on  one  side, 
while  the  building  formed  three  sides  of  the  enclosure.  In  the  court 
fountains  and  statuary  were  lavishly  displayed.  The  building  was, 
therefore,  developed  on  eight  facades,  four  interior  and  four  exterior. 
The  court  facades  showed  plain  colonial  windows  with  green  shutters. 

The  building  was  a  low  structure,  rising  only  40  feet  above  the 
ground  at  its  highest  point.  Its  mass  ornamentations  were  a  number  of 
gables  forming  pleasing  hipped  roofs.  The  roofing  material  was  blue 
slate. 

Practically  the  only  sculptural  decoration  of  the  structure  was  a 
gigantic  British  shield,  which  occupied  a  tympanum  above  the  colon- 
nade inclosing  one  side  of  the  court. 

IRELAND  ON  THE  PIKE. 

Twenty  beautiful  Irish  colleens,  accompanied  the  most  famous  brass 
band  in  Ireland  and  numerous  other  natives  of  Ireland,  to  the  total  num- 
ber of  137,  made  up  the  living  features  of  the  Irish  Industrial  Exhibi- 
tion at  the  world's  fair,  which  had  perhaps  the  choicest  location  of  the 
Pike.  It  was  Ireland's  first  great  effort  to  make  a  separate  national 
showing.  Amid  appropriate  and  picturesque  surroundings,  233  varying 
exhibits  were  shown,  covering  a  broad  field  of  endeavor.     The  exhibit 


438  Foreign  Buildings  and  Exhibits 

of  the  historical  antiquities  of  Ireland  was  the  most  comprehensive  that 
has  ever  heen  made  at  an  international  exposition. 

OLD  ROMAN   ARCHITECTURE   OF   ITALIAN   BUILDING. 

As  a  unique  novelty  in  the  way  of  a  government  pavilion  Italy  repro- 
duced a  bit  of  old  Eoman  architecture,  trimmed  in  stately  balustrades 
and  affording  a  garden  such  as  has  inspired  artists'  and  poets'  dreams. 
Standing  high  above  the  garden  level,  the  pavilion  was  reached  by  a 
broad  and  graceful  flight  of  stairs.  Standards,  crowned  with  bronzed 
victories,  towered  on  either  side  of  the  entrance.  The  garden  in  front 
of  the  building  was  flanked  at  the  sides  by  a  high  wall. 

The  pavilion  was  used  in  part  for  the  commissioners'  offices  and  the 
entertainment  of  Italian  visitors  and  distinguished  guests.  Italian  con- 
certs were  given  there,  too.  Entrance  to  the  pavilion  was  through  a 
peristyle  of  Ionic  columns.  The  walls  and  colonnade  were  elaborately 
treated  with  porcelain  entablatures,  broken  at  intervals  with  pylons  car- 
rying spouting  fountains. 

WONDERFUL  EXHIBIT  OF  HANDICRAFT. 

Italy's  million  dollar  exhibit  of  handicraft  in  the  Palaces  of  Manu- 
factures and  Varied  Industries  constituted  its  chief  bid  for  attention  at 
the  fair.  In  the  Palace  of  Varied  Industries  were  shown  ceramics,  glass- 
ware, wrought-iron,  and  mosaics.  In  the  Palace  of  Manufactures  could 
be  seen  beautiful  marble  statuary,  bronzes,  carved  furniture,  silks  and 
laces  from  the  sunny  land. 

Eomanelli  was  represented  by  several  examples  of  his  wonderful 
studies  of  the  nude.  Fazzi's  "Flight  of  the  Bacchante,"  Garellos 
"Four  Seasons,"  "Sensualita"  by  Frille,  and  "Sweet  Dreams"  by 
Albani,  were  other  notable  examples  exhibited. 

The  famous  collection  of  urns  and  statues  of  the  Pompeian  museum 
at  Naples  was  shown  in  its  entirety.  It  was  sold  almost  as  soon  as  exhib- 
ited to  an  Eastern  admirer  at  a  price  in  excess  of  $50,000. 

MOROCCO   FIRST  REPRESENTED  AT  AN   EXPOSITION. 

Morocco's  building  was  one  that  attracted  many  visitors.  One  of  the 
chief  exhibits  consisted  of  fifty  of  the  finest  Arabian  steeds  direct  from 
the  Sultan's  stables.  A  company  of  Bedouins  and  Shieks  were  on  hand 
to  show  the  manners  of  the  Moots.    In  the  palace  was  shown  a  display 


FoKEiGN  Buildings  and  Exhibits  439 

of  fine  laces  and  embroideries,  which  constitutes  the  chief  manufacturing 
industry.  Morocco  was  represented  officially  for  the  first  time  at  any 
exposition,  her  exhibit  being  secured  through  the  efforts  of  Mr.  J.  W.  S. 
Langerman,  former  United  States  Consul  to  Tangiers,  and  Special  Com- 
missioner of  the  Sultan  to  the  Louisiana  exposition. 

dedication   of   SWEDISH   PAVILION. 

Sweden's  contribution  to  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition,  a  beau- 
tiful pavilion  made  after  plans  of  old  Swedish  architecture,  occupied  a 
conspicuous  position  in  Administration  avenue,  where  it  was  one  of  the 
few  frame  structures  to  be  seen. 

At  the  dedicatory  exercises  Ferdinand  Boberg  of  Stockholm,  archi- 
tect of  the  building,  hoisted  the  Swedish  flag,  and  in  a  brief  speech  pre- 
sented the  pavilion  to  the  Swedish  representatives  at  the  world's  fair. 

The  Reverend  C.  J.  Eeinhard  of  St.  Louis  responded  in  behalf  of 
the  local  Swedish  representatives.  He  spoke  in  the  Swedish  tongue  and 
expressed  the  thanks  of  the  Swedish  colony  to  Mr.  Boberg  for  the  work 
that  he  and  his  assistants  had  accomplished. 

Sweden's  building  desceibed. 

The  pavilion  was  erected  by  an  organization  composed  of  residents 
of  America  and  Sweden.  The  large  main  room  of  the  building  was  fur- 
nished as  a  library.  Large  tables  and  leather  chairs,  maroon  in  color, 
were  used. 

A  life-sized  bust  of  King  Oscar  II  of  Sweden  and  Norway  was  placed 
just  opposite  the  doorway,  and  Swedish  pottery  and  chinaware  were 
used  to  decorate  the  room. 

The  electric  light  fittings  of  the  pavilion  were  particularly  beauti- 
ful. They  were  of  gold  and  crystal.  The  gold  formed  a  large  circle, 
which  was  set  with  crystal  light  globes,  a  large  one  in  the  center  and 
eight  smaller  ones  about  it. 

The  ceiling  was  of  white.  Its  border  contained  the  name  of  ''Swe- 
den" and  "Sverige,"  the  old  name  of  Sweden,  separated  from  each 
other  by  the  lions  of  Norway  and  the  three  crowns  of  Sweden. 

domestic  exhibits  in  Holland's  building. 

Holland's  modest  pavilion  was  fitted  throughout  with  products  of 
the  country  it  represented.    It  occupied  the  site  opposite  the  Adminis- 


440  FoBEiGN  Buildings  and  Exhibits 

tration  building,  abandoned  by  Russia  on  account  of  the  war.     Hol- 
land's principal  display  was  in  the  Fine  Arts  building. 

QUEEN  WILHELMINa's  SKATES  AND  DOLLS. 

With  Queen  Wilhelmina 's  skates,  a  large  collection  of  paper  doll 
dresses  and  dolls  dressed  in  Dutch  costume,  such  as  the  Queen  once  used, 
the  Holland  exhibit  in  the  Manufactures  building  especially  interested 
children,  while  their  elders  found  something  to  their  taste  in  the  cream 
cheese,  cocoa  and  coffee  that  were  shown  by  Holland  in  the  Palace  of 
Agriculture. 

The  skates  were  of  a  special  pattern  made  by  the  skatemakers  to  Her 
Majesty,  who  spends  most  of  her  time  on  the  ice  during  the  winter 
months.  They  had  quaintly  curved  ends  and  were  elaborately  orna- 
mented with  gold  scroll  work. 

Many  of  the  paper  dolls  and  some  of  the  Dutch  costumed  ones  are 
copies  of  those  in  Queen  Wilhelmina 's  private  collection,  and  they  were 
shown  at  St.  Louis  for  the  first  time.  Every  style  of  Dutch  festal  dress 
was  illustrated,  and  as  far  as  possible  the  ornaments  worn  by  Dutch 
women  were  shown  in  miniature. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  exhibits  was  that  of  the  Baltic  works, 
in  which  a  new  process  for  painting  on  silk  was  shown.  It  is  on  the 
order  of  pyrography,  and  is  nothing  like  the  old  Kensington  pen  work 
that  was  formerly  the  rage. 

WINDMILLS  IN   FAMOUS  DELFT  WARE. 

Windmills  along  the  banks  of  the  canals  were  shown  in  sectional 
tiles  of  the  familiar  delft  ware  for  the  decoration  of  which  typical  Dutch 
scenes  were  selected. 

Van  der  Steen  of  Amsterdam  exhibited  modern  gold  and  silver  jew- 
elry, while  ancient  pieces,  including  full  sets  of  many  famous  spoons, 
were  displayed  by  Otto  Braakman. 

Amsterdam's  chief  industry  is  diamond  cutting  and  the  exhibit 
included  a  large  collection  of  diamonds  in  the  rough  which  skilled  lapi- 
daries cut  and  polished,  forming  one  of  the  most  valuable  working  dis- 
plays at  the  fair. 


Foreign  Buildings  and  Exhibits  441 


BELGIUM  S   OLD   FLEMISH    BUILDING. 

Not  even  the  ten  principal  palaces  attracted  more  public  attention 
than  the  pavilion  erected  by  Blelgium,  a  magnificent  piece  of  old  Flem- 
ish architecture.  It  was  a  large  and  imposing  structure,  with  wide, 
inviting  entrances  and  a  towering  dome. 

Standing  at  the  head  of  Administration  avenue  it  faced  three  of  the 
main  thoroughfares  of  the  exposition,  and  was  approached  from  as  many 
directions.  It  was  the  first  building  east  of  the  Administration  building, 
directly  at  the  foot  of  Administration  hill. 

The  structure  was  built  of  steel  brought  from  Antwerp.  It  was  of 
a  substantial  character,  and  after  the  world's  fair  was  taken  apart  and 
rebuilt  for  the  exposition  at  Liege,  Belgium.  It  attracted  attention  prin- 
cipally because  its  great  sides,  without  windows,  were  covered  with 
interesting  mural  paintings.  These  depicted  Belgium's  industrial  activ- 
ity and  participation  in  international  affairs. 

NEW  ZEALAND  AT  THE  FAIR. 

When  the  New  Zealand  commission  to  the  fair  returned  home  upon 
the  completion  of  its  duties,  it  carried  with  it  a  herd  of  fine  elk,  the  gift 
of  President  Roosevelt  to  New  Zealand.  The  President's  gift  was  the 
result  of  his  interest  in  the  country. 

New  Zealand's  exhibit  in  the  Palace  of  Forestry,  Fish  and  Game 
consisted  of  a  splendid  collection  of  trophies  of  the  chase,  wild  boar 
heads,  a  fine  exhibit  of  Kauri  gum,  from  which  varnish  is  made,  and 
an  interesting  display  of  photographs  and  paintings  of  Maori  life  in 
New  Zealand. 

The  New  Zealand  exhibit  in  the  Palace  of  Agriculture  was  also 
worthy  of  note.  Woolen  blankets,  finely  worked  robes,  New  Zealand 
grasses,  hemp  and  such  cereals  as  corn,  wheat,  barley,  peas,  beans  and 
hops  were  displayed. 

AUSTRIA  ^S  EXPOSITION  BUILDING. 

Austria's  building  at  the  fair  was  distinctly  Viennese,  and  the  only 
sample  of  the  art  nouveau  among  the  foreign  buildings.  It  was  first 
built  in  Austria,  taken  to  pieces  and  reconstructed  after  its  arrival  at 
the  exposition.    It  included  thirteen  salons,  one  for  each  of  the  govern- 


442  FoEEiGN  Buildings  and  Exhibits 

mental  departments,  in  which  special  exhibits  were  made.    It  was  sur- 
rounded by  gardens  and  embelished  with  sculpture. 

MAGNIFICENT  UNIFORM  OF  HUNGARIAN   COMMISSIONER. 

It  was  in  the  magnificence  of  its  personal  representatives  that  the 
dual  throne  of  southern  and  eastern  Europe  attracted  most  attention. 
Of  all  the  foreign  uniforms  worn  by  the  representatives  of  European 
and  other  countries  that  of  Dr.  George  de  Szogyeny,  commissioner  of 
Hungary,  attracted  the  most  admiration.  The  garments  were  of  silk  and 
gold,  inlaid  with  jewels  worth  $6,000,  and  decorated  in  the  most  elabo- 
rate fashion.  White  trousers,  close-fitting  to  the  commissioner's  legs, 
were  embroidered  in  old  Hungarian  style,  and  the  "mente,"  a  sort  of 
garment  hanging  from  one  shoulder,  was  made  of  heavy  damask  and 
silk,  richly  inlaid  with  old  family  jewels.  The  whole  costume,  the  com- 
missioner's secretary  said,  was  worth  $7,000,  while  the  sword  alone  rep- 
resented a  value  of  $500. 

The  magnificent  uniform  was  a  relic  of  the  old  Hunnish  days  and 
a  fine  example  of  almost  ^'barbaric  splendor,"  albeit  the  Hungarians 
have  long  since  been  recognized  as  among  the  most  virile  and  pro- 
gressive of  European  peoples.  With  all  their  intelligence  and  de- 
veloped traits  of  several  centuries  of  European  culture,  they  still  retain 
some  of  that  savage  spirit  which,  as  Oriental  invaders,  once  made  them 
the  dread  of  the  ¥/est;  hence,  the  persistency  with  which  they  have 
retained  their  racial  unity  in  the  dual  empire. 


chapte:r   XXXI. 

FOREIGN    COUNTRIES    AT    THE    FAIR 

Unique  Brazilian  Feather  Exhibit — Reproduction  of  Famous  Agra  Tomb — Canadian  Gov- 
ernment Pavilion — Mexico's  Building,  in  Spanish  Renaissance  Style — An  Elaborate 
Social  Event — A  Well- Appointed  Cuban  Dwelling  Reproduced — Nicaragua's  Tiny  Gem 
of  a  Building — Guatemala's  Coffee,  Fruit  and  Woods — Cingalese  Cabinets  of  Precious 
Woods — Illumination,  Old  and  New — Argentine  Republic's  Official  Building — Rare 
Old  Wines  of  Portugal — Siam's  Temple  at  the  Fair — Burma  and  Her  Sly  Elephant, 
Mary — Other  Visitors  from  Afar — Russia's  Embarrassing  Plight. 

THERE  was  not  a  more  beautiful  building  on  the  exposition 
grounds  than  that  erected  by  Brazil.  Its  location  was  practically 
the  same  as  Belgium's,  immediately  to  the  south  of  the  latter.  It  was 
surmounted  by  several  domes,  one  rising  to  a  height  of  132  feet. 

TJlSriQUE  BEAZILIAN   FEATHER  EXHIBIT. 

Feathers  formed  an  important  part  of  the  Brazilian  exhibit.  They 
were  not  shown  in  the  ordinary  way,  but  were  made  into  flowers  and 
placed  in  baskets  and  bouquets. 

Col.  F.  M.  de  Souza  Aguiar,  Commissioner  General  from  Brasiil,  thus 
explained  the  feather  exhibit  made  from  his  country : 

"It  is  the  work  of  Eio  Janeiro  women.  No  other  than  women  could 
do  that  delicate  work.  They  take  the  feathers  of  the  humming  bird, 
which  has  a  most  beautiful  plumage  in  our  country,  and  also  the  feath- 
ers of  the  parrot.    With  these  they  make  fans  and  flowers. 

"The  fans  are  not  carried  by  Brazilian  women.  They  are  used  for 
the  decoration  of  rooms.  For  the  leaves  of  the  flowers,  they  take  fish 
scales.    The  result  is  wonderful  and  beautiful." 

EEPEODUCTION  OF  FAMOUS  AGRA  TOMB. 

Distant  India  was  represented  by  a  somber  yet  inspiring  reproduc- 
tion of  the  tomb  of  Etmad-Dowlah,  which  occupied  a  site  near  the  Phil- 
ippine reservation,  at  the  rear  of  the  Forestry,  Fish  and  Game  building. 
The  original  of  this  tomb  at  Agra,  India,  has  many  of  the  bulbous  dome 

443 


444  .POEEIGN    COUNTEIES  AT   THE   FaIE 

accessories  which  have  made  a  world-wide  reputation  for  the  Taj  Mahal 
at  the  same  place.  These  were  faithfully  reproduced  at  the  fair.  In 
the  pavilion,  samples  of  tea,  coffee,  cardamom  and  pepper  were  served 
by  the  natives.  The  interior  furnishings  were  typical  of  East  Indian 
life.  Many  historic  relics  hoarded  by  the  ancient  races  were  displayed 
in  the  decorations.  Plant  life  as  it  exists  in  India  was  demonstrated  in  the 
gardens,  specimens  having  been  brought  from  the  burial  places  of 
India's  ancient  royalty. 

CANADIAN  GOVERNMENT  PAVILION, 

Our  national  neighbor  on  the  North,  Canada,  was  represented  by  a 
spacious  club-house,  located  half  way  between  Agriculture  Palace  and 
the  Forestry,  Fish  and  Game  building,  and  directly  opposite  the 
National  pavilion  of  Ceylon. 

More  than  $30,000  was  devoted  by  the  Canadian  government  to  the 
erection  of  the  building  and  beautifying  the  grounds.  No  exhibits  were 
made  in  the  pavilion.  The  furnishings  were  appropriately  reminiscent 
of  the  Dominion,  however.  Commissioner  General  Hutchinson's  official 
home  was  made  at  the  Canadian  building,  where  he  proved  a  hospitable 
host  to  visiting  Canadians  and,  in  fact,  to  all  comers. 

MEXICO  'S  BUILDING  IN  SPANISH  RENAISSANCE  STYLE. 

A  fine  showing  was  made  by  our  national  neighbor  to  the  south. 
Mexico's  pavilion  was  two  stories  high,  designed  in  the  style  of  the 
Spanish  Renaissance.  The  windows  of  the  lower  story  were  of  stained 
glass.  Those  of  the  upper  floor  were  photographic  negatives,  showing 
cathedrals,  monuments,  palaces,  parks  and  delightful  examples  of  scen- 
ery in  Mexico.  A  large  picture  of  President  Diaz  in  stained  glass  was 
one  of  the  many  features.  In  the  center  of  the  pavilion  was  a  patio, 
always  a  feature  of  Mexican  architecture.  Cacti  and  plants,  common  to 
Mexico,  were  used  in  beautifying  this  court  and  the  grounds  about  the 
pavilion.  The  first  floor  was  devoted  to  a  public  reception  room,  read- 
ing room,  telegraph  office,  and  other  apartments.  On  the  second  story 
were  rooms  for  the  Mexican  Commission,  for  the  press  correspondents, 
etc. 

AN    ELABORATE    SOCIAL   EVENT. 

A  ball  and  reception,  which  constituted  one  of  the  most  elaborate 
affairs  held  on  the  exposition  grounds  marked  the  opening  of  the  Mexi- 


Foreign  Countries  at  the  Fair  445 

can  building.  Included  in  the  invitation  list  were  all  the  exposition 
officials,  all  state  and  foreign  commissioners  to  the  world's  fair  and 
many  Washington  diplomats.  Mayor  Wells  and  many  city  officials,  as 
well  as  prominent  citizens  of  St.  Louis,  who  were  not  connected  with 
the  world's  fair,  were  present. 

Senor  Azpiroz,  Mexican  Ambassador  to  Washington,  who  was  the 
guest  of  honor,  was  accompanied  by  his  wife,  two  daughters  and  a  son. 
His  daughters  are  conspicuous  in  ofScial  Washington  society. 

Mexico's  booth  in  the  Palace  of  Liberal  Arts  greatly  interested  the 
visitors  to  the  building.  Displays  of  drugs,  perfumes  and  dental  work 
were  among  the  features  of  the  Mexican  exhibit.  A  large  collection  of 
photographs  and  architectural  drawings  was  also  shown. 

A  well-appointed   CUBAN   DWELLING  REPRODUCED. 

This  healthy  national  youngster  and  protege  of  Uncle  Sam  was  on 
hand  at  the  fair  with  a  building  typically  Cuban.  It  was  a  reproduction 
of  a  well-appointed  dwelling  of  the  present  day  in  the  city  of  Havana, 
with  a  tower  at  one  corner,  rising  to  a  height  of  forty-eight  feet. 

The  structure  was  surrounded  by  a  portico  twenty  feet  wide.  Above 
was  a  promenade  always  thronged  on  pleasant  evenings. 

Nicaragua's  tiny  gem  of  a  building. 

Nicaragua  had  the  unique  distinction  of  presenting  the  smallest 
building  in  the  international  group.  The  tiny  structure  was  almost  com- 
pletely hidden  in  a  garden  filled  with  luxuriant  tropical  vegetation. 

A  patio,  or  court,  gave  it  a  tropical  character  noticeable  in  the  pavil- 
ions of  other  southern  countries.  The  lower  floor  of  the  building  was 
devoted  to  a  large  hall,  for  exhibits,  and  the  upper  section  was  used  for 
a  State  room  and  apartments  for  the  commissioners.  Vegetation  brought 
from  the  Isthmus  and  replanted  by  native  gardeners  gave  it  a  tropical 
atmosphere. 

The  Nicaraguan  Commission  included  Doctor  Leopoldo  E.  Eamirez, 
Chief  Commissioner;  Eosendo  Eubio,  secretary,  and  Senors  Alejandro 
Bermudez  and  Juan  Eslaya,  with  fifty  other  Nicaraguans  employed  in 
various  capacities.  Doctor  Eamirez  is  Minister  of  Public  Works  of 
Nicaragua  and  has  been  Minister  of  War  and  Ambassador  to  Honduras, 


446  Foreign  Countries  at  the  Fair 

guatemalans  coffee^  feuit  and  woods. 

This  little  Central  American  republic  had  an  excellent  display  in 
charge  of  Senor  Manuel  M.  Jeron.  It  included  300  bales  and  boxes  con- 
sisting largely  of  coffee,  which  was  shown  in  all  its  grades  and  in  all  its 
•stages  of  growth.  There  were  also  many  kinds  of  fruit,  Guatemalan 
mahogany,  cedar  and  178  other  woods  and  a  large  exhibit  of  Indian 
work,  as  well  as  several  quetzals,  or  birds  of  paradise. 

CINGALESE   CABINETS   OF   PRECIOUS   WOODS. 

Ceylon's  building  at  the  world's  fair  was  the  repository  of  probably 
the  two  most  valuable  pieces  of  furniture  on  the  grounds.  The  pieces 
were  two  cabinets  of  precious  wood  and  rare  carving,  the  combined  val- 
ues of  which  amounted  to  over  $3,000. 

The  cabinets  constituted  only  a  small  part  of  the  show  things  that 
abounded  in  the  Ceylon  court.  One  of  them  was  of  ebony,  beautifully 
carved  in  design,  representing  the  flora,  fauna  and  humankind  of  the 
island.  It  is  the  property  of  a  lady  of  Ceylon  residing  in  London  and 
was  loaned  for  exhibition.    It  is  valued  at  $1,750. 

The  other  was  of  calamander  wood,  one  of  the  rarest  kinds  of  pre- 
cious wood  in  the  island,  and  it  was  also  exquisitely  carved.  This  cab- 
inet was  purchased  by  the  Government  of  the  island  for  exhibition  at 
St.  Louis  and  was  valued  at  about  the  same  amount  as  the  other  cabinet. 
Both  pieces  of  furniture  are  the  handiwork  of  Cingalese  artisans. 

ILLUMINATION,   OLD  AND   NEW. 

The  oldest  and  the  newest  in  light  were  combined  in  the  illumination 
of  the  Ceylon  building.  Lamps  hundreds  of  years  old  blazed  forth  with 
electricity. 

A  large  number  of  ancient  lamps,  closely  resembling  the  Eoman  and 
Egyptian  in  their  designs,  were  displayed  at  the  Ceylon  building.  They" 
were  placed  where  they  could  be  seen  to  the  best  advantage  in  the  build- 
ing and  at  the  same  time  contribute  as  much  as  possible  to  its  illumina- 
tion. They  were  wired  and  instead  of  the  feeble  flame  for  which  they 
were  made  they  scattered  the  rays  of  the  electric  light  of  the  twentieth 
century. 

CEYLON  TEA. 

A  quantity  of  quaint  and  pretty  pottery  painted  by  native  artists 
was  another  feature  of  the  exhibit.    Tea  was  the  principal  display,  how- 


Foreign  Countries  at  the  Fair  447 

ever.  The  consumption  of  Ceylon  tea  has  grown  remarkahly  in  the  last 
few  years.  Ten  years  ago  the  Ceylon  product  had  practically  no  sale, 
while  today  one-fourth  of  the  tea  used  comes  from  the  islands.  Natives 
made  tea  at  all  hours  at  the  building  and  served  it  to  tired  visitors. 

ARGENTINE  REPUBLIC'S  OFFICIAL  BUILDING. 

This  enterprising  South  American  republic  reproduced  the  second 
and  third  stories  of  the  government  palace  at  Buenos  Ayres  as  its  official 
building.  The  structure  was  located  north  of  the  Administration  build- 
ing and  near  the  Austrian  reservation.  Tlie  two  stories  of  the  building 
included  a  large  central  chamber,  where  receptions  and  exhibitions  were 
held,  and  smaller  rooms  for  the  offices  of  the  commissioners. 

RARE  OLD  WINES  OF  PORTUGAL. 

Rare  old  wines  constituted  Portugal's  principal  display.  Some  of 
the  wine  it  was  declared  authoritatively  was  so  old  that  the  age  of  it  has 
been  forgotten,  even  by  the  owners,  and  in  price  it  was  the  most  costly 
wine  ever  imported  to  America. 

It  was  contained  in  quart  bottles,  and  the  actual  value  of  the  wine  was 
$30  per  quart.  It  was  a  wonderful  wine,  so  the  Portuguese  commission- 
ers said,  and  one  drink  of  it  would  place  a  man  on  the  borders  of  the 
happy  hunting  grounds.  Two  drinks  of  the  wine  would  make  the  im- 
biber believe  himself  a  part  owner  of  the  earth,  and  three  drinks  make 
him  feel  greater  and  wealthier  than  J.  Pierpont  Morgan  before  the 
slump  in  United  States  steel. 

So  tempting  did  the  wine  prove  that  $2,000  worth  was  stolen  before 
the  fair  was  two  weeks  old.  A  special  detail  had  to  be  employed  to  guard 
it  against  depredations  of  connoisseurs. 

SIAm's  TEMPLE  AT  THE  FAIR. 

Siam  reproduced  as  its  official  building  Ben  Chama  Temple,  an  his- 
toric Siamese  structure.  It  had  an  advantageous  location  between  the 
Mexican  and  Nicaraguan  pavilions.  The  building  was  shaped  like  a 
Greek  cross,  having  four  arms  of  equal  length  radiating  from  a  center. 
It  carried  a  high  pitched  roof,  with  a  concave  ridgepole  like  those  on 
the  Chinese  buildings.  This  pole  terminated  in  a  pointed  ornament, 
commonly  seen  on  the  temples  of  Siam.  The  interior  consisted  of  one 
large  apartment  and  a  small  room,  used  as  the  executive  office.    No  posts 


448  FoEEiGN  Countries  at  the  Fair 

marred  the  interior,  the  roof  being  carried  on  Siamese  trusses  of  pecu- 
liar construction. 

BURMA   AND    HER   SLY    ELEPHANT,    MARY. 

Eighty  Burmese,  accompanied  by  six  elephants,  represented  that 
strange  land. 

The  elephants  the  Burmese  brought  with  them  were  more  satisfac- 
torily inspected  from  a  safe  distance,  as  they  were  insulated  from  infec- 
tion with  American  elephant  diseases  by  a  thick  coat  of  loud-smelling 
grease. 

One  of  these  pachyderms— Mary  by  name— created  consternation 
upon  her  arrival.  The  first  thing  she  was  visited  by  United  States  cus- 
toms inspectors  and  they  placed  around  her  neck  a  nice,  large  tag,  on 
which  her  name,  age,  birth  and  previous  condition  of  servitude  were 
inscribed,  and  also  that  she  was  a  creature  of  bondage.  It  was  tied  with 
ribbons  and  bore  a  flashy  red  seal. 

Mary  eyed  the  tag  suspiciously  at  first  and  with  growing  resent- 
ment until  she  curled  her  trunk  around,  tore  the  tag  from  her  neck  and 
ate  it. 

Something  about  the  tag,  the  red  seal  or  the  allusion  to  bondage,  irri- 
tated Mary  and  she  began  to  make  things  unpleasant.  She  was  chained 
to  the  floor  of  a  freight  car,  but  this  did  not  feaze  Mary,  for  she  simply 
leaned  her  two  tons  of  flesh  against  the  side  of  the  car,  and,  lo,  there  was 
no  car. 

Then  Mary  laid  in  wait.  A  workman  came  by  whistling  blithely  to 
his  work.  Mary  reached  out  her  proboscis  and  hit  him  on  the  coattails, 
and  the  workman  made  the  end  of  the  station  platform  in  one  jump. 

Near  the  car  was  an  empty  barrel,  of  which  Mary  possessed  herself. 
She  rolled  it  about  and  juggled  it  for  awhile  like  a  little  girl  playing 
with  a  rubber  ball. 

A  group  of  workmen  stood  on  the  edge  of  the  station  platform  laugh- 
ing at  her  antics. 

Sly  Mary.  She  let  them  watch  and  laugh  for  a  few  moments,  when 
suddenly  she  got  a  good  grip  on  the  barrel  and  sent  it  spinning  among 
them  like  a  Jap  torpedo  running  amuck  in  the  Port  Arthur  squadron. 

It  knocked  them  right  and  left  and  smashed  the  barrel  into  a  pile  of 
staves. 


EXHIBITOR  FROM  FAR  CATHAY— Manager  of  China  "s  exhibit  caught  by  the  cam- 
era in  a  happy  moment.  Numerous  Chinese  officials  were  stationed  at  the  fair,  ranging 
in  importance  from  prince  to  merchant.  All  became  social  favorites,  this  unusual  oppor- 
tunity for  intercourse  revealing  many  delightful  oriental  characteristics. 


_  AINU  MOTHER  AND  CHILD— Surprise  is  depicted  on  the  countenance  of  this  dusky- 
visitor  from  the  wilds  of  Japan's  northern  islands,  viewing  for  the  first  time  the  wonders- 
of  the  Occident  after  getting  settled  in  the  Ainu  home  camp  in  the  exposition  enclosure. 


AINU  CHIEF  AND  PRAYER-POLE— This  benign  and  religious  veteran's  daily  de- 
votions proved  a  never  ending  source  of  wonder  to  visiting  hosts  at  the  exposition.  The 
grotesque  prayer-pole  is  shown  with  its  customary  fantastic  decorations. 


TREE  DWELLERS  AT  THE  FAIR — Among  other  curiosities  at'  the  St.  Louis  fair  a 
number  of  tree  dwellers  were  shown,  living  as  they  ordinarily  do  in  the  tops  of  tall  trees» 
The  lofty  habitation  depicted  was  occupied  by  a  family  of  tribesmen  from  Java. 


KAFIR  WOMAN  AND  CHILD — There  was  no  prouder  woman  at  the  exposition  than 
this  little  mother  with  her  kinky  hair,  shiny  skin  and  earnest  face  Far  from  their  Afri- 
can home,  she  was  an  interested  observer  of  all  that  fell  withm  the  range  of  her  wide- 
open  eyes. 


THEIR  FIRST  SNOW— Shortly  after  the  arrival  of  the  Filipinos,  before  the  open- 
ing of  the  fair,  an  unusually  late  fall  of  snow  surprised  them.  To  the  astonishment  of 
beholders  they  rushed  forth  to  eat  the  rare  deposit.  It  was  the  first  snow  they  had  ever 
seen. 


TWO  FASHION  PLATES— Here  are  shown  Datto  Facimdo,'  the  Berry  Wall  of  the 
Mandanaos,  in  fancy  dress,  and  Sumlia,  leader  of  the  feminine  ''400,"  in  their  most 
cherished  garbs.  The  couple  are  excellent  types  of  Filipino  "swells"  and  hugely  en- 
joj^ed  displaying  their  bright  clothes. 


JAPANESE  CARPENTERS  AT  WORK  AT  THE  FAIR — These  nimble  little  fellows 
were  to  be  encountered  everywhere  during  the  early  days  of  the  exposition.  Working 
with  marvelous  dexterity,  they  transformed  bare  and  dreary  places  into  fairy  bowers.  Few 
artisans  can  compare  with  the  Japs  for  speed  or  the  artistic  finish  they  give  their  task. 


FOEEIGN   COUNTKIES  AT  THE  FaIR  457 

Mary's  fiery  Indian  temper  was  allowed  to  simmer  in  the  car  until  she 
digested  her  tag  and  the  government  seal,  when  she  was  taken  to  her  new 
summer  home  on  the  world's  fair  grounds.  Once  there  she  seemed  to 
realize  the  dignity  of  her  position  and  remained  on  good  behavior 
throughout  the  exposition. 

OTHEE  VISITORS  FROM  AFAR. 

Australia  had  a  fine  display  of  her  mining  and  agricultural  products ; 
Ethiopia  of  her  people,  rich  ivory  and  other  products ;  there  were  Boers 
and  British  from  South  Africa;  100  Persians;  a  party  of  Tibetans 
whom  Kipling  terms  the  best  soldiers  on  earth,  and  a  party  of  Afghans. 
With  them  were  zebras,  snakes  and  other  domestic  animals.  A  party  of 
Soudanese  from  Africa  formed  another  interesting  study. 

RUSSIANS  EMBARRASSING  PLIGHT. 

As  is  generally  known,  Russia  withdrew  from  official  participation 
with  the  advent  of  war,  relinquishing  the  space  that  had  been  granted 
her  and  abandoning  great  chests  and  casks  of  rich  exhibits  already  for- 
warded to  St.  Louis. 
\  The  Division  of  Exhibits  was  requested  by  an  unofficial  commission  of 
prominent  Eussian  artists  and  manufacturers  to  allot  the  original  space 
given  to  the  Eussian  Government  prior  to  its  withdrawal  from  official 
participation  in  the  fair.  This  could  not  be  done,  but  the  exposition 
allotted  space  in  the  Fine  Arts,  Varied  Industries,  Manufactures  and 
Education  palaces. 

The  commission  was  headed  by  Prince  Troubezkaye  and  was  coir.- 
posed  of  some  of  the  distinguished  men  of  the  Czar's  Empire.  It  made 
a  praiseworthy  showing,  in  view  of  the  embarrassments  confronting  it. 

In  addition  there  was  a  very  interesting  Eussian  exhibit  on  the  Pike, 
due  to  the  energy  of  the  Criterion  Concession  Company  and  Ellis  Glick- 
man,  a  Eussian- American  actor  of  note.  Aside  from  the  excellent  Impe- 
rial Eussian  Opera  Troupe,  elsewhere  described,  the  Trans-Siberian 
railway  journey  is  well  worth  describing  in  connection  with  things  Eus- 
sian at  the  fair. 

A  TRIP  TO  SIBERIA. 

The  '4rip"  was  taken  in  a  real  train  of  Pullman  coaches,  drawn  by 
a  real  locomotive  and  including  a  modern  car  service,  making  one  of  the 


458  Foreign  Countries  at  the  Fair 

most  original  features  at  the  fair.  Entering  a  Russian  railway  station 
at  Moscow,  the  visitor  bought  his  tickets  and  boarded  the  train,  standing 
under  a  long  shed. 

A  seat  was  taken  in  one  of  four  Pullman  cars.  The  train  started 
with  all  the  motion  of  a  genuine  thing.  The  track  shed  glided  away,  the 
yards  were  passed,  over  bumping  switches  and  short  jerks.  Then  the 
open  country  landscape  of  Siberia  ensued.  Invisible  blowers  produced 
the  effect  of  Eussian  air.  The  motion  of  the  flying  train  was  perfect. 
The  journey  carried  the  passengers  through  Irkoutsk  and  various  large 
Siberian  cities.  The  train  skirted  Lake  Baikal,  where  the  horrors  of  war 
were  most  vividly  portrayed  during  the  Japanese  campaign,  when  whole 
regiments  were  plunged  through  the  ice  and  lost  and  frozen  to  death  dur- 
ing the  blinding  blizzards  of  that  region. 

The  illusion  was  a  dream  of  perspective  and  light.  The  beauty  of 
Siberian  scenery,  known  only  to  few  American  travelers,  was  rapidly 
unfolded  as  mile  after  mile  of  the  running  drops  was  passed  at  high 
speed.  Stops  were  made  at  important  cities  and  way-stations,  when 
real  life  took  the  place  of  the  plastic  representations.  It  was  for  all  the 
world  as  though  the  Piker  was  doing  Russia  instead  of  being  delightfully 
hoodwinked  at  the  exposition. 

After  the  journey  was  completed,  a  Eussian  Village  was  visited.  It 
was  a  live  show  connected  with  the  illusion.  Eussian  life  was  very  clev- 
erly portrayed  by  natives.  At  the  end  a  Eussian  theater  afforded  pro- 
ductions of  native  songs,  dances,  wedding  ceremonies,  and  national 
music  enacted  by  a  troupe  of  forty  players. 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 

U.    5.    GOVERNMENT    EXHIBIT 

Details  of  the  Govermnent  Building — Moving  Pictures  and  Stereopticons — Government 
Radium  Display — Exhibit  of  Postofiice  Department — Dead-Letter  Office  Exhibit- 
Complete  Postoffice  in  Operation — Smithsonian  Institution  Display — Bellowing  of  a 
Blue  Whale— Making  Money  While  You  Wait — An  Intelligent  Machine— After  Forty 
Years  His  Wonder  Grows— History  of  the  United  States  Mint— War  Department  Dis- 
play— Splendid  Naval  Exhibit — Harbor  Shown  Fully  Mined — Weather  Forecasting  Ap- 
paratus— Bureau  of  Animal  Industry — U.  S.  Agriculture  Experiment  Station — Depart- 
ments of  State  and  Justice — With  the  Fish  Commission. 

&|^  ROM  one  end  to  the  other  the  Government  building  was  filled  with 
-*•  a  resume  of  the  intellectual  activities  of  the  nation  such  as  could 
be  seen  nowhere  else. 

Of  all  the  buildings  at  the  fair,  that  in  which  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernment made  its  exhibit  was  found  to  be  most  complete  on  the  opening 
day.  The  national  officials  had  ordered  it  to  be  complete,  and  the  orders 
were  obeyed. 

DETAILS  OF   THE   GOVERNMENT   BUILDING. 

It  was  a  stately,  noble  structure,  admirably  situated  on  the  high 
ground  overlooking  the  main  picture  at  its  east  end.  It  faced  directly 
on  the  transverse  avenue  and  closed  the  vista  in  that  direction.  Its 
dome,  the  style  of  the  Parthenon  surmounted  by  a  quadriga,  175  feet 
above  the  ground,  was  a  conspicuous  object  outlined  against  the  sky  line. 
A  grand  stairway  adorned  with  statues  filled  the  left  of  the  picture,  giv- 
ing dignity  to  the  composition. 

The  great  slope  in  front  of  the  Government  building  was  terraced  with 
these  stairways,  almost  completely  covering  the  slope.  The  building  was 
the  largest  ever  provided  at  any  exposition  by  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment. 

The  interior  floor  area  was  175  by  724  feet,  entirely  free  of  columns. 
The  roof  was  supported  with  70-foot  steel  trusses  35  feet  apart.  South- 
west of  the  Government  building  was  situated  the  United  States  Fish 
Commission  building,,  a  square  structure  135  feet  long  and  wide. 

459 


460  U.  S.   GOVEKNMENT  ExHIBIT 

On  entering  the  north  door  almost  every  visitor  involuntarily  paused 
and  glanced  to  the  roof.  The  interior  decoration  with  the  national  col- 
ors carried  out  in  the  red  beams,  blue  ceiling  and  white  window  openings 
added  to  the  majesty  of  the  880-foot  building  where  the  activities  and 
progress  of  the  government  were  shown. 

On  the  right  of  the  visitor  was  the  display  of  the  Interior  depart- 
ment, under  which  head  were  included  exhibits  from  the  public  lands 
and  the  wards  of  the  government,  the  Indians. 

MOVING  PICTURES  AND  STEEEOPTICONS. 

The  biograph  and  stereopticon  exhibition  of  the  Interior  department 
exhibit  in  the  Government  building  depicted  scenes  from  Indian  reserva- 
tions. National  parks,  and  forest  preserves  shown  by  lantern  slides  and 
motion  pictures.  The  exhibitions  were  given  at  10:30  a.  m.  and  1,  2,  3 
and  4  o'clock  p.  m.  daily. 

Models  demonstrated  the  daily  life  of  the  Indian  in  his  savage  state, 
while  charts,  transparencies  and  statistics  showed  his  progress  under 
the  school  system.  In  a  corner  of  this  exhibit  was  shown  a  crystal  cave, 
the  material  of  which  came  from  Hot  Springs,  and  which,  according  to 
the  color  of  the  light,  seemed  an  endless  vista  of  rubies,  sapphires  or  dia- 
monds. 

Fifty  barrels  of  rock  crystals  from  Hot  Springs  were  used  in  the  dis- 
play. Every  tip  of  crystal  glowed  with  the  brilliancy  of  a  gem  and  the 
changing  colored  lights,  coupled  with  mirrors,  gave  the  Grotto  the 
appearance  of  a  vast  cave  of  diamonds,  emeralds,  sapphires  and  rubies, 
according  to  the  light. 

This  exhibit  was  planned  by  Secretary  C.  F.  Cooley  of  the  Business 
Men's  League  of  Hot  Springs,  and  was  erected  in  the  Government 
exhibit  by  D.  S.  Clarke. 

GOVERNMENT  RADIUM  DISPLAY. 

The  United  States  Geological  Survey  exhibited  the  most  complete 
collection  of  radium  compounds  and  radio-active  substances  of  which 
the  existent  status  of  the  study  of  the  mysterious  metal  would  permit. 
It  was  one  of  those  displays  small  and  hidden  away  by  the  magnitude 
of  the  fair,  but  one  which,  to  those  who  care  to  seek  it  out,  revealed  the 
uttermost  boundary  to  which  the  inquiry  of  science  into  the  structure 
of  matter  has  reached. 


U.  S.  Government  Exhibit  461 

These  exhibits  were  general  and  varied  in  character.  They  included 
specimens  of  every  known  radio-active  substance,  whether  obtained  from 
minerals  or  ores,  from  mineral  waters  or  from  petroleum  wells. 

Authentic  specimens  of  radium  compounds  were  also  shown.  Every- 
thing relating  to  the  source,  manufacture  and  application  of  radium  was 
exhibited,  including  all  chemicals  obtained  from  the  separation  of 
various  radium  compounds,  and  all  instruments  and  devices  by  which  it 
is  proposed  to  apply  radio-activity  in  medicine,  science  and  the  arts.  An 
interesting  feature  was  the  portraits  and  the  publications  of  celebrated 
radium  discoverers  and  investigators,  together  with  photographs  of  their 
laboratories  and  apparatus,  and  autograph  letters  from  some  of  them. 

Two  convenient  halls  were  set  aside  for  demonstration  of  the  won- 
ders of  radium.  In  one  was  grouped  the  specimens  of  ores  and  minerals 
containing  radium,  and  careful  note  was  made  of  their  effects  upon  vari- 
ous substances.  In  the  other  hall  illustrated  lectures  were  given  tw!ce 
daily  on  a  variety  of  subjects  relating  to  the  history  of  the  discovery  of 
radium,  its  nature  and  its  possibilities.  Its  mode  of  occurrence,  the 
methods  used  in  separating  it  from  radium  ores,  the  concentration  of  its 
activities,  and  the  manifold  uses  to  which  these  remarkable  radio-active 
substances  may  be  put  were  all  described. 

Cinematograph  Hall  was  so  arranged  that  it  could  be  easily  dark- 
ened, and  different  highly  active  specimens  of  radium  compounds  were 
exhibited  in  it  as  affecting  the  diamond,  willemite,  kunzite  and  other 
ladio-responsive  substances. 

EXHIBIT  OF  POSTOFFICE  DEPARTMENT, 

Across  the  main  aisle  was  seen  the  postoffice  display,  including  a 
working  mail  car  with  the  clerks  tossing  the  letters  into  the  proper  pig- 
eon hole  or  pouch  with  the  rapidity  that  prevails  on  a  car  rolling  70 
miles  an  hour  over  the  railroads.  From  the  burro  that  collects  the  mail 
in  the  mountains  to  the  white  trolley-car  familiar  to  city  dwellers,  every 
link  in  the  postoffice  chain  was  complete  in  this  exhibit. 

A  valuable  collection  of  old-time  relics  from  the  postoffice  museum  at 
Washington  illustrated  the  crude  beginnings  of  the  postal  system.  One 
of  these  relics  was  an  old-fashioned  stage  coach  that  formerly  carried 
United  States  mails  through  a  portion  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  terri- 
tory. President  Eoosevelt,  upon  seeing  it  first,  examined  with  a  soldier 's 
interest  the  bullet  holes  which  stage  robbers  and  Indians  shot  through  its 


462  U.  S.  GovEENMENT  Exhibit 

leather  curtained  sides.  Generals  Sherman  and  Sheridan  and  President 
Garfield  rode  in  this  old  stage-coach  in  their  strenuous  days  of  frontier 
life. 

Even  the  type  of  ''mail  wagon"  used  in  Alaska  sledges,  pulled  by 
dogs  over  the  frozen  snow,  were  shown  in  their  collection. 

DEAD-LETTER  OFFICE   EXHIBIT. 

Another  interesting  feature  was  the  display  from  the  Dead-Letter 
Office  museum,  showing  stray,  tabooed  articles  found  in  the  mails,  rang- 
ing from  infernal  machines  to  living  serpents,  several  of  the  latter  being 
rattle-snakes  concealed  in  innocent  appearing  packages,  calculated  to 
arouse  no  suspicion  in  the  mind  of  the  jeopardized  recipient.  Severe 
punishment  is  the  penalty  provided  for  such  offenses. 

COMPLETE  POSTOFFICE  IN  OPEEATION"., 

In  connection  with  this  department  there  was  a  complete  postoffice 
in  operation  in  the  building  for  the  accommodation  of  the  thousands  of 
world's  fair  officials,  attaches  and  employes.  There  was  also  a  special 
issue  of  world's  fair  stamps. 

The  issue  consisted  of  90,000,000  of  the  1-cent  variety,  225,000,000 
2s,  7,500,000  3s,  9,500,000  5s  and  6,500,000  10s.  The  designs  were  all 
commemorative  of  the  Louisana  Purchase  and  were  more  beautiful  than 
any  special  stamp  ever  issued  by  the  Stamp  Division. 

The  postoffice  had  every  facility  for  the  transaction  of  money-order 
and  registry  business,  the  sale  of  postal  supplies  and  the  receipt  and  dis- 
patch of  mails. 

SMITHSONIAN    INSTITUTION    DISPLAY. 

A  step  forward  on  the  left  brought  one  to  the  Smithsonian  Institu- 
tion. This  was  the  exhibit  of  the  National  Museum  and  its  choicest 
treasures  were  here  shown.  One  was  the  skeleton  of  the  "Sulphurbot- 
tom"  or  blue  whale,  a  cast  of  which  was  installed  in  the  building. 

The  immense  skeleton  came  in  sections.  The  head,  which  was  2  feet 
long,  and  weighed  two  and  one-half  tons,  came  on  a  flat  car,  and  when  it 
was  unloaded  it  was  feared  that  a  section  of  the  wall  would  have  to  be 
removed  to  make  room  for  it  to  be  brought  into  the  building,  but  it  was 
finally  gotten  through  the  door  without  injury.     The  entire  skeleton 


U.  S.   Go  VEEN  MEN  T  ExHIBIT  463 

when  articulated  was  75  feet  long  and  the  whale  when  alive  weighed 
approximately  sixty-five  tons. 

The  whale  was  caught  near  Balena,  on  the  south  coast  of  Newfound- 
land, by  a  steam  whaling  vessel,  which  used  a  small  cannon  to  fire  a  har- 
poon attached  to  a  large  cable. 

The  capture  of  * '  sulphurbottoms "  was  extremely  rare  before  the 
introduction  of  steam  whalers  and  cannon  into  the  whaling  industry,  as 
it  was  almost  impossible  to  harpoon  them  by  hand  on  account  of  their 
immense  size. 

Although  the  jaws  of  a  blue  whale  are  strong  enough  to  crush  a 
strong  boat  to  splinters,  the  animal  subsists  entirely  upon  a  shell  fish 
found  in  Northern  waters,  and  is  perfectly  harmless  except  that  should 
it  accidentally  ram  even  an  iron-clad  whaling  vessel  amidships,  when 
swimming  at  the  speed  of  twenty  miles  an  hour,  of  which  it  is  capable, 
the  boat  would  be  wrecked. 

BELLOWING  OF  A  BLUE  WHALE. 

F.  A.  Lucas  of  the  Department  of  Comparative  Anatomy,  who  was 
in  charge  of  the  whale  skeleton,  laughed  at  an  article  in  a  recent  issue 
of  a  scientific  magazine  which  gives  a  lurid  description  of  the  loud  bel- 
lowing of  a  blue  whale  after  the  harpoon  strikes  it. 

A  blue  whale,  if  harpooned  from  the  rear,  frequently  rushes  forward 
at  a  speed  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  an  hour,  and  when  he  gets  to  the  end 
of  the  cable,  tows  the  whaler,  despite  the  fact  that  the  engines  are  re- 
versed, but  he  never  jumps  out  of  the  water  or  bellows.  In  fact,  the  blue 
whale  and  all  other  whales,  except  the  variety  known  as  the  ^'humpback" 
are  incapable  of  making  a  noise  except  by  spouting. 

From  the  roof-beams  were  suspended  the  Langley  airships  and  the 
84-foot  restoration  of  the  whale.  Beneath  the  whale  was  its  skeleton  and 
close  by  were  two  nightmares  of  prehistoric  times,  the  stegosaur  with 
its  spiny  tail  and  the  triceratops  whose  three-pointed  head  savors  of 
Dante's  Inferno  or  the  Temptation  of  St.  Gerome. 

Uglier  than  the  horned  toad  and  larger  than  the  elephant  was  the 
stegosaur  installed  in  the  Smithsonian  section  of  the  Government  build- 

It  was  20  feet  long  from  the  tip  of  its  nose  to  the  spikes  on  its  tail 
and  its  back  rose  fully  12  feet  above  the  floor. 


464  U.   S.   Go  VEEN  MEN  T  ExHIBIT 

The  stegosaur  is  reputed  to  have  been  one  of  the  largest  animals  of 
the  early  geological  ages,  aijd  to  have  fed  on  herbs.  There  were  others 
larger  which  did  not  confine  themselves  to  a  vegetable  diet,  as  is  proven 
by  the  stegosaur  itself. 

Along  its  back  are  arranged  a  row  of  horn-like  plates  2  feet  long  and 
a  foot  high.  These  plates,  augmented  by  a  clump  of  spikes  on  the  end  of 
its  tail,  would  make  the  largest  and  hungriest  of  the  forest  rangers  hesi- 
tate when  they  saw  the  stegosaur. 

The  tail  spikes  are  nearly  two  feet  long  and  with  a  side  switch  of  its 
caudal  appendage  the  stegosaur  would  be  able  to  pierce  a  sheet  of  boiler 
iron,  according  to  geologists.  The  age  of  the  stegosaur  has  not  been 
exactly  fixed,  but  it  is  supposed  to  have  roamed  through  Colorado,  where 
its  bones  were  found,  between  fifty  and  one  hundred  million  years  ago. 

Alligators  and  snakes,  elephants  and  mastadons  were  side  by  side  in 
this  department,  and  above  them  all  towered  the  giraffe,  surrounded  by 
a  display  of  modern  animals.  The  finest  obtainable  samples  of  crystals 
and  gem  stones  were  shown  in  cases  along  the  walls. 

Several  Aztec  temples  and  a  huge  stone  god  of  the  early  Mexicans 
were  also  shown  in  this  display,  which  was  a  running  objective  cata- 
logue of  every  science. 

Opposite  the  Institute  was  the  Lighthouse  department,  with  10-foot 
lanterns  of  crystal  glass  and  models  of  lighthouse  towers,  the  lighting 
service  of  the  coasts  being  further  illustrated  by  a  series  of  transparen- 
cies at  the  rear  of  the  exhibit,  where  hmng  a  huge  siren  foghorn. 

MAKING  *  ^  MONEY  ^'  WHILE  YOU  WAIT. 

Next  came  the  mint,  where  souvenir  coins  of  the  exposition  were 
rolling  from  the  huge  stamping  press  after  having  gone  through  every 
process  used  by  the  mint  in  making  metal  money.  The  metal  was 
melted,  cast  into  ingots,  rolled  into  ribbons  and  the  coins  punched  and 
stamped  before  the  eyes  of  the  visitor. 

The  round  metal  disks,  properly  alloyed  and  shaped  to  the  right  size, 
but  unstamped,  were  dropped  into  a  tube  exactly  designed  to  receive 
them.  At  the  base  of  the  tube,  sliding  horizontally  and  visible,  was  a 
pair  of  long,  flat,  fingerlike  grippers  which  closed  on  the  lowermost  disk 
with  a  click.  The  fingers  then  slid  inward  about  six  inches  and  released 
their  burden,  depositing  it  precisely  in  a  certain  spot  with  an  accuracy 
that  reckons  within  a  hair's  breadth. 


U.  S.  Government  Exhibit  465 

Then  the  fingers  retreated.  At  the  instant  two  peculiar-looking 
great  bulbs  of  steel,  which  the  wise  ones  call  a  '^toggle  joint,"  wabbled 
together,  and  down  from  above  with  160  tons  pressure  came  the  die. 
Below  was  another  die  or  stamp,  the  reverse  side,  behind  which  also  lay 
fabulous  power.  To  the  thousandth  of  a  second,  the  one  met  the  other. 
The  impressions  of  the  lettering  and  figures  were  made  upon  the  disk". 
It  was  not  mashed,  because  contained  by  a  ''collar,"  pressure  against 
which  served 'another  purpose,  in  that  the  milling  of  the  edges  that  we 
note  upon  all  coins  was  accomplished. 

Such  was  a  coining  machine  as  was  shown  in  the  Mint  of  the  Govern- 
ment building.  Money  was  not  created  before  the  spectator's  eyes,  but 
exposition  medals  were,  and  the  process  in  every  detail  was  that  in  use 
at  the  mints  of  the  United  States. 

AN  '^ intelligent"  MACHINE. 

Beyond  a  doubt,  a  coining  machine  is  a  most  ''intelligent"  mechani- 
cal device.  The  click,  click  goes  on  like  the  ticking  of  a  clock;  the 
fingers  pick  up  coin  after  coin,  never  missing,  never  fumbling,  never 
stopping,  doing  business  at  the  rate  of  eighty  a  minute.  Twenty-dollar 
gold  pieces  can  be  turned  out  at  this  clip,  which  as  the  sporty  individual 
who  was  watching  the  process  said  "is  going  some." 

"Twenty  a  throw,  eighty  throws  a  minute,"  he  continued,  "sixteen 
hundred. ' ' 

And  it  is  an  ugly-looking  brute  of  a  mechanism  to  exhibit  such  a 
remarkable— prescience,  shall  we  call  it?  A  great,  heavy,  enormously 
heavy  and  bulbous  mass  of  cast  iron  girds  the  whole  affair.  In  the  mid- 
dle, somewhat  as  the  head  of  the  turtle  sticks  out  from  the  shell,  pro- 
trudes the  slender  framework  which  guides  the  "hands."  In  slides  the 
frame ;  shut  go  the  fingers.  Out  slides  the  frame ;  open  come  the  fingers. 
Each  time  a  coin  is  stamped. 

Watching  this  awhile  you  would  begin  to  feel  somewhat  queer— the 
thing  was  almost  uncanny. 

after  forty  years  his  wonder  grows. 

' '  For  forty  years, ' '  says  A.  W.  Downing,  the  guardian  of  the  coining 
machine,  "I  have  worked  in  the  Mint  at  Philadelphia."  Mr.  Downing 
did  not  volunteer  this  as  if  anxious  to  say  something  of  himself.  The  re- 
mark came  about  in  the  course  of  conversation.     But  it  suggested  the 


466  U.  S.   GOVEENMENT  ExHIBIT 

spectator's  inward  thought  that  if  he  had  had  the  benefit  of  forty  years' 
experience  with  those  fingers  he  miglit  be  able  to  explain  them. 

*^How  the  blazes,"  you  say,  ''do  those  fingers  always  catch  the  coin 
at  just  the  right  instant,  in  just  the  right  place,  and  move  it  just  the  right 
distance  and  put  it  down  in  just  the  right  spot?  And  how  does  the  old  bob- 
ble or  toggle  joint  happen  to  wabble  at  just  the  right  time,  and  hit  the 
coin  in  just  the  right  place,  and  make  just  the  right  marks?  And  how 
do  the  sliders  happen  to  slide,  the  toggler  happen  to  toggle,  and  the  fin- 
gers happen  to  finger  so  that  none  get  mixed  up  with  each  other  in  any 
of  the  eighty  trips  a  minute?" 

Mr.  Downing  looks  at  you  with  the  dazed  air  of  the  witness  who,  after 
having  vainly  endeavored  to  grasp  the  query  of  the  long-winded  attor- 
ney, asks  the  stenographer  to  repeat  the  question.  You  tackle  the  thing 
piecemeal,  then,  and  try  to  solve  the  philosophy  of  it  in  driblets.  After 
consistent  eifort,  you  will  find  that  the  prescience  of  the  fingers  is  de- 
rived from  the  ''friction  of  wood  upon  brass." 

The  main  prongs,  or  the  "wrists"  of  the  hands,  are  attached  to  short 
bars,  which,  in  turn,  are  attached  loosely  to  other  bars— the  ones  that 
have  the  in-and-out  motion.  Now,  the  hand  part  is  supported  upon  a 
block  of  brass,  which  moves  with  the  sliders,  but  rests  upon  strips  of 
wood.  The  brass,  rubbing  on  the  wood,  retards  the  motion,  so  that  the 
brass  block,  with  its  attached  prongs,  tends  to  move  more  slowly  than 
the  sliders.  The  retarding  causes  the  fingers  first  to  grip  and  then  to 
release  the  coins. 

All  this,  Mr.  Downing  declares,  is  as  simple  as  the  ABC.  Still,  the 
thing  seems  a  little  vague.  As  for  all  the  rest  of  it,  it  can  only  be  ex- 
plained that  the  toggler  does  the  business,  and  the  dies  meet  so  exactly 
just  because  they  do.    Simple,  isn't  it? 

HISTORY  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  MINT. 

In  1795,  the  United  States  having  blossomed  out  into  full-fledged  com- 
panionship with  the  nations  of  the  world.  Uncle  Sam  foresaw  the  necessity 
of  possessing  a  mint.  A  coining  machine  was  purchased.  This  machine 
was  exhibited  side  by  side  with  the  one  described  above. 

The  old  apparatus  is  a  turn-the-crank  affair,  and  looks  as  if  it  might 
be  an  apple  press  or  something  equally  rustic.  But  the  contrast  vividly 
tells  the  story  of  one  hundred  odd  years. 


U.  S.  Government  Exhibit  467 


COMPEESSING,  PUNCHING  AND  CLEANING. 

Hardly  less  absorbing  than  the  coining  is  each  of  the  numerous  steps 
through  which  our  metal  money  passes.  Four  or  five  thousand  ounces  of 
gold,  silver  or  copper  are  melted  at  a  time  in  a  naphtha  furnace,  which 
generates  1900  units  of  heat  and  which  roars  like  a  tornado.  The  liquid, 
lifted  out  in  cups,  is  poured  into  molds  and  comes  out  in  sticks  about  a 
foot  long,  one-half  inch  thick  and  one  inch  wide. 

The  sticks  are  then  compressed  in  a  device  which  requires  fifty  horse- 
power to  operate  it.  They  are  run  through  the  press  time  and  again  to 
secure  an  exact  thickness,  which  must  be,  in  the  case  of  double  eagles, 
not  a  jot  more  nor  less  than  eighty-three  one-thousandths  of  an  inch.  By 
an  infinitely  delicate  gauge— a  "clock,"  it  is  called— the  thickness  can  be 
regulated  up  to  a  thousandth  of  an  inch.  The  accuracy  is  necessary  in 
order  that  the  strips  from  which  the  coins  are  to  be  made  shall  be  of 
a  uniform  weight  throughout  their  entire  length;  in  other  words,  that  a 
$20  piece  have  in  it  exactly  $20  worth  of  gold. 

The  pressing  hardens  the  metal.  The  strips  then  must  undergo  the 
first  annealing  process,  which  softens  the  gold.  This  means  passing 
them  under  a  spray  of  cold  water.  Now,  all  is  ready  for  punching.  The 
strips  pass  under  a  punch  which  is  capable  of  180  punches  a  minute,  each 
punch  resulting  in  a  disk  of  precisely  the  correct  diameter. 

The  punching  frays  the  edges  the  least  bit.  This  is  remedied  in  what 
is  termed  the  ' '  up-setting  machine. ' '  The  term  is  simply  a  practical  ex- 
pression of  what  the  device  does;  it  turns  over  these  roughened  edges 
and  also  creates  the  little  border  or  circle  of  indentations  which  we  note 
at  the  edges  upon  both  sides  of  every  silver  or  gold  coin. 

The  punching  has  again  hardened  the  coin  beyond  its  desired  consist- 
ency. The  seventh  step  of  its  manufacture,  then,  is  a  second  annealing. 
From  the  "annealing  cylinder"  it  comes  out,  if  gold,  a  dull  brown  or 
blackish  color. 

Uncle  Sam's  new  double  eagles  must  shine  with  an  undimmed  luster, 
and  the  eighth  process  is  a  cleansing  apparatus  which  cleans  by  the  oxi- 
dization of  the  copper  or  the  alloy  metal.  After  cleansing,  the  coins  must 
be  dried ;  and  a  special  device,  as  intricate  as  any  drier  in  any  laundry, 
is  designed  to  accomplish  this  purpose.  Dried,  they  are  ready  for  the 
coiner  already  described.  Each  process  was  demonstrated  at  the  mint 
display. 


468  XJ.  S.   GOVEENMENT  ExHIBIT 

WAR    DEPARTMENT    DISPLAY. 

In  the  center  of  the  building  reared  the  tall  Statue  of  Liberty,  reach- 
ing almost  to  the  roof  and  looking  toward  the  middle  entrance  of  the 
building.  Under  its  left  hand  was  the  War  Department,  with  a  16-inch 
rifle  on  its  flank,  and  near  it  a  mountain  battery,  carried  on  the  backs 
of  mules. 

Every  item  in  the  war  activity  of  the  United  States  was  sliown 
either  in  model  or  in  operation.  The  difficulties  of  the  Philippine  cam- 
paigns were  illustrated  by  wax  figures  and  transparencies  taken  from 
actual  scenes  of  war.  Models  of  Civil  War  battlefields  and  relics  fur- 
nished the  old  soldier  materials  for  fighting  over  all  his  campaigns. 

SPLENDID   NAVAL  EXHIBIT. 

Across  the  way  was  the  Naval  exhibit,  with  a  full-sized  battleship 
model  as  its  chief  feature.  This  model  was  equipped  with  real  and  model 
guns,  and  every  detail  of  the  battleship  was  constructed  by  Naval  Archi- 
tect Boucher  for  the  education  of  inland  visitors.  Models  of  the  latest 
battleships  in  glass  cases  enabled  the  visitor  to  seize  the  salient  points 
of  the  new  naval  architecture  without  going  to  a  seaport  town.  The  en- 
trances to  this  display  were  beneath  tall  anchor  gateways  that  added  a 
finishing  touch  to  the  exhibit. 

The  Navy  Department's  exhibit  in  the  Government  building  occupied 
about  15,500  square  feet.  The  central  figure  of  the  exhibit  was  the  exact 
full-sized  reproduction  of  that  portion  of  a  man-of-war  from  the  bow  to 
amidships.    All  compartments  were  accessible  to  visitors. 

A  working  model  of  a  dry  dock,  built  to  scale,  illustrating  the  size 
and  type  of  docks  at  various  navy  yards,  was  another  interesting  feature. 
A  floating  model  of  the  United  States  ship  Illinois  was  an  attraction  of 
this  exhibit. 

Other  exhibits  of  note  in  the  naval  display  were  a  working  model  of  a 
steel  floating  dry  dock,  the  Annapolis  Academy  in  miniature,  sixty  bio- 
graph  scenes  of  the  navy  in  action  and  models  of  various  types  of  battle- 
ships, including  the  armored  and  protected  cruisers,  double-turreted  mon- 
itors, gunboats,  torpedo  boats,  submarine  boats  and  old  sloops  of  war. 

HARBOR  SHOWN  FULLY  MINED. 

Soldiers,  sailors  and  marines  acted  as  guides,  guards  and  custodians 
of  the  Army  and  Navy  exhibits  and  explained  each  feature  to  those  who 


U.  S.  Government  Exhibit  469 

found  it  difficult  to  comprehend  the  vast  display.  One  feature  of  perhaps 
greater  interest  than  any  was  a  huge  glass  tank  showing  on  a  small 
scale  a  land-locked  harbor  with  protecting  forts  and  the  entrance  fully 
mined.  A  hostile  fleet  in  miniature  lay  outside.  The  key  and  governing 
station  to  the  mines  were  in  plain  view  of  the  visitor,  as  were  submarine 
boats  creeping  upon  the  invading  fleet.  All  the  mysteries  of  electric  and 
contact  mines  and  of  submarine  operations  in  warfare  were  revealed  at 
a  glance. 

WONDERFUL   WEATHER  FORECASTING   APPARATUS. 

Next  came  the  Weather  Bureau  display  and  here  was  shown  a  large 
glass  weather  map,  with  red  and  blue  lines  which  point  out  the  condi- 
tions throughout  the  country  for  the  day.  The  display  included  rain 
gauges  that  will  register  single  drops  of  water,  thermometers  of  the  most 
delicate  construction,  and  wind  gauges  so  delicately  poised  that  the  breath 
of  a  sleeping  infant  will  make  their  vanes  revolve.  A  seismograph  or 
earthquake  register  was  a  feature  of  the  exhibit. 

BUREAU    OP    ANIMAL   INDUSTRY. 

In  the  Bureau  of  Animal  Industry  of  the  Agricultural  Department 
exhibit,  the  farmer  could  study  the  most  improved  methods  of  caring 
for  his  stock  and  curing  animal  diseases.  Dairymen  were  shown  the 
proper  way  to  preserve  milk  and  other  products.  Evaporators  and  ster- 
ilizers of  the  latest  model  were  on  exhibition.  Even  the  farrier's  art  was 
shown  by  a  set  of  horseshoeing  tools  and  models  of  correctly  shoed  hoofs. 
How  to  grow  mushrooms  in  a  bureau  drawer  or  corner  of  the  cellar  was 
another  interesting  industry  displayed  by  models. 

PROTECTION  or  GRASSES,  GRAINS  AND  FRUITS. 

Grasses  and  grains  and  the  plants  injurious  to  animals  were  shown 
by  actual  samples,  which  included  the  infamous  loco  weed  and  the  harm- 
less looking  foxglove.  Wool  and  the  vegetable  fibers  were  given  much 
space  in  this  display  of  life  on  the  farm  under  all  the  climatic  conditions 
of  our  country. 

Apples,  pears  and  peaches  were  shown  in  endless  variety  by  wax 
models  costing  more  than  a  barrel  of  fresh  fruit  each.  How  best  to  store 
fruit  in  refrigerating  plants  was  the  subject  of  an  interesting  display  pre- 
pared by  G.  Harold  Powell,  pomologist  in  charge  of  the  experiments 
that  have  enabled  American  fruits  to  capture  and  hold  the  foreign  mar- 
ket. 


470  U.  S.  Government  Exhibit 

UNITED    STATES   AGKICULTUEE    EXPERIMENT    STATION. 

The  agricultural  experiment  station,  including  a  complete  working 
chemical  laboratory,  occupied  a  space  across  the  aisle  and  there  were  seen 
the  methods  of  plant,  soil  and  food  analysis.  A  model  of  the  famous 
calorimeter  with  which  Prof.  W.  0.  Atwater  of  Wesleyan  demonstrated 
that  alcohol  is  a  food  was  on  exhibition,  near  a  display  of  the  insects  in- 
jurious to  vegetation  in  magnified  glass  models. 

DEPARTMENTS  OF   STATE  AND   JUSTICE. 

In  the  Departments  of  State  and  Justice  were  shown  documents  and 
pictures  dealing  with  the  life  of  the  nation.  Here  the  true  American 
could  stand  and  with  a  slight  knowledge  of  history  take  heart,  no  matter 
what  his  station  in  life,  upon  seeing  the  portraits  of  men  who  rose  to  be 
rulers  of  the  nation  under  greater  handicaps  than  his. 

WITH   THE   FISH   COMMISSION. 

The  Government  Fish  Commission  exhibit,  described  in  detail  in 
connection  with  the  Forestry,  Fish  and  Game  palace,  was  most  complete. 
The  fish  in  tanks  formed  only  a  small  part  of  the  exhibit.  The  inner 
court  of  the  pavilion  was  devoted  to  showing  how  the  propagation  of 
fish  and  other  work  of  the  commission  is  carried  on.  The  hatching  of 
trout  eggs  was  a  particularly  interesting  feature  of  this. 

A  striking  exhibit  was  a  large  case  having  in  the  background  a  paint- 
ing of  the  harbor  front  of  Boston.  Water  rose  and  fell  at  the  docks,  and 
in  the  foreground  were  nets  and  lobster  pots,  bobbing  on  its  surface.  The 
visitor  could  see  just  how  the  lobster  and  other  edible  denizens  of  the  deep 
are  caught  for  the  market.  A  similar  exhibit  showed  how  sponges  are 
caught  on  the  Florida  reefs.  Models  showed  how  the  salmon  are  trapped. 
Other  models  and  exhibits  afforded  splendid  ideas  of  the  oyster  and  seal 
industries. 

This  important  department  of  the  Federal  Government  exhibit  dis- 
played carloads  of  living  specimens,  including  those  of  great  rarity. 
Some  of  the  finest  specimens  were  from  the  aquarium  in  New  York.  The 
remainder  were  the  result  of  a  haul  made  in  the  ocean  off  Atlantic  City, 
N.J. 

Among  the  fishes  were  young  sharks,  large  turtles,  horseshoe  crabs  and 
sturgeon.  The  car  in  which  they  arrived  was  an  exact  replica  of  the  model 
cars  shown  in  the  building.    It  was  divided  into  tanks  and  compartments. 


CHAPTER    XXXIII. 
SCULPTURE,    OF    THE    EXPOSITION 

Carl  Bitter  on  the  Exposition  Sculpture — ^Nichaus'  Heroic  Statue  of  Saint  Louis — Joliet 
and  De  Soto — The  Red  Man  Delineated — Pathetic  Disappearance  of  the  Red  Man — 
Solon  Borglum's  Cowboys — First  European  to  Obtain  an  American  Foothold — Chief 
Figures  in  the  Louisiana  Purchase — The  Louisiana  Purchase  Monument,  by  Carl  Bit- 
ter— Gigantic  Decorations  of  the  Cascades — H.  A.  McNeil  and  His  Work  as  a  Sculptor 
— Colossal  Statues  of  Fourteen  States — The  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans  in  Statuary — 
Festival  Hall  and  Philip  Martiny — Permanent  Statuary  of  the  Fine  Arts  Building. 

ENDURING  marble  and  temporary  staff,  which  have  marked  the 
statuary  of  past  expositions,  were  not  the  only  kinds  at  the  Louisi- 
ana Purchase  Exposition,  although  more  works  of  art  carved  from  these 
materials  were  there  exhibited  than  were  ever  collected  at  one  place  in 
the  history  of  the  world. 

Many  odd  materials  were  made  up  into  artistic  figures  that  eloquently 
proclaimed  the  idea  of  the  designer.  Some  of  these  unique  statues  were 
colossal  in  size  and  large  sums  of  money  were  expended  in  their  making. 

Birmingham,  Ala.,  built  a  statue  of  Vulcan,  It  was  fifty  feet  high, 
the  base  constructed  of  coal  and  coke  and  the  statue  cast  in  iron.  It 
portrayed  Birmingham's  importance  as  a  manufacturing  center. 

King  Cotton  was  Mississippi's  offering.  Cotton  was  the  material 
used,  and  the  giant  was  as  tall  as  Alabama 's  Vulcan.  The  Spirit  of  Utah 
was  manifested  in  an  artistic  figure  modeled  from  beeswax.  Idaho  pre- 
sented the  figure  of  a  Couer  d'Alene  miner  cast  from  copper.  Golden 
butter  was  used  by  a  Minnesota  artist  as  an  appropriate  material  for 
a  statue  of  John  Stewart,  the  builder  of  the  first  creamery. 

Louisiana  presented  two  curiosities  in  sculpture— a  figure  of  Mephis- 
topheles  in  sulphur  and  Lot 's  wife  carved  from  a  block  of  rock  salt.  Cali- 
fornia showed  the  figure  of  an  elephant  built  of  almonds.  Missouri,  with 
its  monster  corn  man,  and  Kansas,  with  its  nine-foot  Indian,  made  of  the 
cereals  of  the  Sunflower  State,  furnished  two  more  unique  examples. 

CARL  BITTER   ON   THE   EXPOSITION   SCULPTUEB. 

It  is  with  marble,  staff  and  similar  materials,  however,  that  this 
chapter  will  deal— the  materials  properly  coming,  within  the  department 

471 


472  SeuLPTURE  of  the  Exposition 

of  sculpture.  In  recognition  of  the  ability  shown  by  the  chief  of  that 
department— Carl  Bitter— and  the  wonders  he  accomplished,  it  is  only 
proper  and  fitting  that  his  views  of  the  subject  should  be  presented.  This 
has  been  made  possible  through  the  preservation  of  a  carefully  prepared 
address  on  the  subject  delivered  by  Mr.  Bitter  early  in  the  life  of  the 
exposition.  Its  salient  features  follow  as  the  best  possible  description  and 
interpretation  of  the  sculpture  of  this  greatest  of  world's  fairs. 

The  distinguished  master  of  sculpture  presaged  his  description  with 
the  following  quotation  from  Emerson: 

"For  poetry  was  all  written  before  time  was,  and  whenever  we  are  so 
finely  organized  that  we  can  penetrate  into  that  region  where  the  air  is 
music,  we  hear  those  primal  warblings,  and  attempt  to  write  them  down, 
but  we  lose  ever  and  anon  a  word  or  a  verse,  and  substitute  something  of 
our  own,  and  thus  miswrite  the  poem.  The  men  of  more  delicate  ear 
write  down  these  cadences  more  faithfully,  and  these  transcripts,  though 
imperfect,  become  the  songs  of  nations." 

Continuing,  he  says: 

' '  When  we  look  in  that  spirit  upon  the  plan  that  underlies  the  artistic 
adornment  of  the  exposition,  it  will  present  to  us  a  cup  of  pure  joy  which 
will  be  as  refreshing  as  anything  that  the  spontaneity  and  imagination 
of  man  can  present.  And  if  I  now  outline  this  plan  in  its  fundamental 
principles,  I  believe  that  few  words  will  be  needed  to  explain  its  logic 
and  sequences. 

"In  the  many  comments  that  were  made  in  the  press  on  this  plan  it 
was  stated  that  the  statuary  may  be  divided  into  two  classes,  such  as 
have  subjects  of  historic  significance  and  importance,  and  such  as  are  of  a 
purely  allegorical  nature.  The  historical  subjects  in  the  form  of  portrait 
statues  and  the  like  are  grouped  in  connection  with  the  buildings  that 
are  devoted  to  the  more  material  side  of  the  exposition.  The  allegorical 
sculpture  has  been  used  where  adornment  was  needed  in  connection  with 
and  in  the  vicinity  of  structures  devoted  to  a  more  ideal  mission,  such  as 
the  Festival  Hall  or  the  Palace  of  Fine  Arts.  But  chiefly  have  they  been 
grouped  around  the  most  gorgeous  feature  of  the  fair,  the  magnificent 
Cascades. 

NIEHAUS*   HEROIC   STATUE  OF   SAINT   LOUIS. 

"To  begin  my  citation  of  the  historical  subjects,  I  now  outline  this 
plan,  and  begin  with  the  object  that  I  have  designated  to  be  first  in  the 


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Sculpture  of  the  Exposition  481 

line  of  the  many  monumental  effects,  the  heroic  equestrian  statue  of  St. 
Louis.  It  will  not  need  many  words  to  explain  its  presence.  Going  back 
as  far  as  we  can  for  the  traceswhich  history  and  legend  have  left  in  con- 
nection with  our  city  as  mother  of  the  enterprise,  we  come  across  this 
King  of  France,  this  Crusader,  this  markstone,  whose  name  the  World's 
Fair  city  bears.  Mr.  Charles  H.  Niehaus  has  done  full  justice  to  this 
inspiring  subject.  We  now  understand  why  he  places  at  the  base  of  his 
statue  a  figure  to  represent  our  city,  and  spirits  in  the  forms  of  winged 
youths  who  whisper  to  her  of  the  things  which  this  globe  has  witnessed 
since  the  giver  of  her  name  has  been.  This  delightful  composition  should 
bring  to  our  minds  the  hilly  roads  over  which  civilization  has  traveled 
before  it  could  accomplish  what  now  greets  our  eyes.  On  the  bulwarks 
in  religion  and  social  order  that  were  set  in  the  days  of  the  Crusaders  we 
have  built  good  foundations  of  much  that  now  forms  the  strongest  pillars 
of  our  social  and  political  existence.  If  we  consequently  refer  to  them 
with  this  monument,  I  believe  we  are  doing  well. 

JOLIET  AND  DE   SOTO. 

'^You  will  recall  the  two  enormous  buildings  which  frame  it,  the  im- 
mense court  at  the  foot  of  which  this  statue  stands,  the  Varied  Industries 
building  to  the  right,  and  the  Manufactures  to  the  left.  Both  of  these 
buildings  have  monumental  entrances  facing  this  Court,  and  in  front  of 
the  entrance  to  the  Manufactures  building  is  located  a  portrait  statue, 
the  subject  of  which  is  Louis  Joliet,  by  one  of  our  foremost  artists,  Mr. 
Proctor.  To  balance  it  we  have  in  front  of  the  gate  to  the  Varied  In- 
dustries building  a  statue  of  De  Soto,  also  equestrian  in  form,  by  Mr. 
C.  E.  Potter.  It  is,  perhaps,  needless  to  further  express  the  historical  sig- 
nificance of  these  two  statues.  They  were  selected  as  representatives  of 
the  two  nations  which  first  appear  connected  with  the  history  of  the 
region  of  which  the  Louisiana  Purchase  forms  a  part. 

THE    RED   MAN   DELINEATED. 

*'And  following  up  this  further,  we  have  two  more  equestrian  statues 
as  representatives  of  the  people  from  whom  this  region  was  wrung,  the 
Indians  as  the  first  possessors  of  the  soil,  located  at  the  base  of  the  hill 
crowned  by  the  Festival  Hall  and  the  Art  building.  One  of  them  repre- 
sents a  Cherokee  Chief,  and  has  been  modeled  by  Mr.  James  E.  Eraser. 
This  artist,  comparatively  young  in  years,  is  a  pupil  of  Mr.  Augustus  St. 


482  Sculpture  of  the  Exposition 

Gaudens,  whose  excellent  influence  is  plainly  visible  in  this  work.  The 
other  statue  represents  a  Sioux  Chief  by  Mr.  Cyrus  E.  Dallin,  of  Boston. 
Mr.  Dallin  is  particularly  familiar  with  the  representations  of  this  nature. 
A  similar  equestrian  statue  of  an  Indian  called  the  'Medicine  Man,'  by 
the  same  artist,  won  for  him  many  laurels  here  and  abroad,  and  was 
finally  purchased  by  the  Austrian  Government. 

PATHETIC  DISAPPEAEANCE  OF  THE  INDIAN. 

''Continuing  the  story  of  the  Indian's  disappearance,  we  have  an 
heroic  group  placed  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  main  transverse  avenue  on 
a  stairway  leading  to  the  Sunken  Gardens.  It  gives  me  great  delight 
to  state  in  presenting  this  group  that  it  is  the  production  of  one  of  the 
youngest  members  of  our  profession,  and  perhaps  is  the  first  piece  of 
large  dimensions  that  he  ever  made.  It  is  the  work  of  Mr.  Adolph  Wein- 
man, an  American,  and  a  pupil  of  Mr.  Niehaus.  Hours  could  be  spent  in 
describing  this  exceptionally  strong  composition.  Wlien  I  spoke  to  the 
artist  first,  outlining  to  him  this  subject,  I  referred  to  the  pathetic  end  of 
the  red  man,  of  whose  pride  and  peculiarities  of  character,  whose  endur- 
ance and  courage,  so  much  had  been  said.  It  is  more  than  gratifying 
to  see  how  strongly  the  poetic  side  of  this  subject  appealed  to  Mr.  Wein- 
man ;  not  only  in  composition,  but  also  in  execution,  praise  must  be  be- 
stowed upon  this  excellent  work.  I  think  I  am  justified  in  stating  that 
there  are  few  public  monuments  of  stone  or  bronze  in  our  cities  that 
show  more  knowledge  and  devotion  in  their  details  and  rendering  than 
this  piece,  which  is  to  be  merely  of  plaster,  and  the  existence  of  which  is, 
theerfore,  unfortunately  so  limited. 

"In  this  same  avenue,  but  on  its  other  end,  we  shall  have  two  com- 
positions by  Mr.  Lorado  Taft,  the  well-known  sculptor  of  Chicago,  in 
which  he  presents  to  us  allegorizations  of  the  seemingly  endless  prairies, 
and  of  the  mountain  stretches  that  border  them.  Mr.  Taft's  work  is  a 
fitting  partner  piece  to  Mr.  Weinman's  Indian  subject. 

' '  In  leaving  the  past  and  pressing  on  to  more  modern  times,  we  have 
given  due  importance  and  recognition  to  the  many  nameless  adventurers 
and  pioneers  who  cleared  the  way  for  the  civilization  that  was  to  follow 
them  into  the  regions  that  were  once  dominated  by  the  savage. 


'c 


SOLON   BOEGLUM'S    COWBOYS. 

"Upon  four  pedestals  intersecting  the  stairways  that  lead  to  the  main 
boat-landings  of  the  Grand  Basin,  Mr.  Solon  Borglum,  a  Westerner  by. 


SCULPTUEE    OF    THE    EXPOSITION  483 

birth,  has  given  us  four  groups  treating  this  subject.  It  may  be  said  that 
the  Indian,  the  cowboy,-  and  his  broncho,  and  similar  themes  form  Mr. 
Borglum's  specialty.  He  certainly  is  able  to  present  these  subjects  in  a 
new  and  better  light  than  they  were  ever  seen  before.  To  complete  this 
picture,  and  the  beings  that  lived  and  thrived  in  our  regions,  we  did  not 
forget  the  beasts  that  were  peculiar  to  our  North  American  continent. 

''Mr.  F.  G.  E.  Roth  has  made  some  groups  of  a  most  dramatic  nature, 
a  combat  of  polar  bears,  and  the  struggling  of  sea  lions.  Mr.  E.  C.  Pot- 
ter has  also  given  us  two  valuable  animal  pieces,  both  of  them  dealing 
with  the  fierce  fights  that  may  often  have  happened  between  the  peaceful 
herding  cattle  and  the  various  members  of  the  large  cat  family. 

''Following  the  approaches  which  lead  from  the  lower  section  of  the 
exposition  grounds  up  towards  the  Colonnade  of  States,  we  find  these 
approaches  flanked  by  a  number  of  portrait  statues  representing  some 
of  the  most  important  historic  characters  that  have  bearing  upon  our 
subject. 

FIEST  EUROPEAN  TO  OBTAIN  AN  AMEEICAN  FOOTHOLD. 

"We  begin  the  series  with  a  statue  of  Panfilo  Narvaez,  the  Spaniard 
and  first  European  who  had  any  legitimate  authority  over  any  part  of 
the  American  territory.  His  ruling  was  extended  by  the  Spanish  crown 
indefinitely  over  all  the  forests,  swamps  and  rivers,  and  all  the  savages 
he  could  conquer.  In  this,  however,  as  we  know,  he  met  with  little  suc- 
cess, perishing  himself  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi.  The  statue  is 
by  Mr.  Herbert  Adams,  of  New  York. 

"We  then  have  Pere  Marquette,  by  Mr.  Cyrus  Dallin.  Marquette  is 
known  to  us  as  a  Jesuit,  a  kind  and  self-denying  soul,  who  was  the  spir- 
itual guide  of  the  expedition  that  for  the  first  time  explored  the  great 
lakes,  and  brought  us  the  first  knowledge  of  the  regions  that  now  form 
the  States  of  Wisconsin  and  Michigan. 

"Then  follows  Phillip  Eeneault,  the  French  nobleman,  who  led  the 
first  expedition  up  the  Mississippi.  He  prospected  and  discovered  the 
rich  lead  deposit  which  now  bears  his  name.  The  statue  is  by  Sterling 
Calder,  of  Philadelphia. 

' '  Pierre  Laclede  follows,  by  John  Scott  Hartley,  of  New  York.  Sieur 
La  Salle,  by  Louis  A.  Gudebrod;  Daniel  Boone,  by  Enid  Yandell;  Wm. 
Clark,  by  F.  W.  Euchstuhl,  and  Meriwether  Lewis,  by  Chas.  Lopez,  both 
of  the  famous  Clark-Lewis  expedition;  Wm.  Clark's  brother,  Geo.  Roger, 


484  Sculpture  of  the  Exposition 

by  Elsie  Ward.  Then  the  statesmen  and  soldiers,  James  Madison,  by 
Janet  Scudder;  James  Monroe,  by  Julia  Bracken;  Marbois,  by  Henry 
Herring;  Eobert  Livingston,  by  A.  Lukeman;  Andrew  Jackson,  by  Lonis 
Potter ;  Anthony  Wayne,  by  W.  Clark  Noble,  and  B'ienville,  the  founder 
of  New  Orleans,  by  Chas.  Lopez. 

CHIEF  FIGURES  IN  THE  LOUISIANA  PURCHASE. 

<^0f  great  importance  are,  furthermore,  two  portrait  statues  repre- 
senting the  chief  executives  of  the  two  countries  which  concluded  the 
Purchase  treaty.  Thomas  Jefferson,  as  the  President  of  the  United 
States,  has  his  monument  at  the  foot  of  the  Cascades,  executed  by  Mr. 
Chas.  A.  Grafiy,  and  a  similar  portrait  statue  of  Napoleon  represents  the 
French  nation.  This  statue  was  made  by  Mr.  Daniel  French.  The  repu- 
tation of  these  two  artists  vouches  for  meritorious  work. 

^ '  To  conclude  the  list  of  portrait  statues  I  will  mention  the  monuments 
erected  at  several  gates  to  the  various  exposition  buildings.  In  this  way 
we  have,  in  connection  with  the  Education  building,  a  splendid  portrait 
statue  of  Johann  Heinrich  Pestalozzi,  by  Albert  Jaegers. 

''At  another  entrance  to  the  same  building  you  find  a  statue  of  the 
American  educator  and  pedagogue,  Horace  Mann,  by  H.  K.  Bush-Brown. 
The  Electricity  building  also  has  two  such  portrait  statues,  one  of  Jos- 
eph Henry,  by  John  Flanagan,  and  Benjamin  Franklin,  by  John  J. 
Boyle.  The  Manufactures  building  has  a  statue  of  Charles  Goodyear,  by 
M.  Tonetti,  and  the  Varied  Industries  one  of  John  Gobelin,  by  Max 
Mauch. 

' '  A  small  monument  of  special  interest  is  formed  by  the  statue  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Sacajawea,  by  Bruno  L.  Zimm.  Sacajawea  was  the 
Indian  woman  who  rendered  such  splendid  services  in  connection  with 
the  Clark-Lewis  expedition. 

.  SIGNING  OF  THE  PURCHASE  TREATY,   BY  CARL  BITTER. 

''Before  taking  up  the  chapter  of  purely  allegorical  sculpture,  of 
which  we  have  a  great  deal,  I  must  mention  a  most  important  monument, 
splendidly  designed  by  Mr.  Masqueray,  called  the  Louisiana  Purchase 
Monument.  Its  central  location  is  known  to  all,  also  the  fact  that  it  rises 
to  a  height  of  about  one  hundred  feet,  and  is  crowned  by  a  figure  of  Peace 
standing  upon  the  globe.    Its  principal  sculptural  feature  consists  of  a 


SCULPTUEE    OF    THE    ExPOSITIOK  485 

group  entitled  the  'Signing  of  tlie  Purcliase  Tteaty.'    Tliis,  as  well  as 
the  remainder  of  the  statuary  on  this  monument,  is  my  work. 

''In  this  group  appear  the  principal  actors  in  the  transaction,  Robert 
R.  Livingston,  James  Monroe,  and  Marbois.  The  incident  is  taken  at 
the  moment  when  this  great  treaty  was  just  signed,  and  Robert  Livingston 
who  had  been  its  principal  moving  spirit,  exclaimed:  'We  have  lived 
long,  but  this  is  the  noblest  work  of  our  whole  lives.  The  instruments 
which  we  have  just  signed  will  cause  no  tears  to  be  shed;  they  prepare 
ages  of  happiness  for  innumerable  generations  of  human  creatures.  The 
Mississippi  and  Missouri  will  see  them  succeed  one  another,  and  multiply, 
truly  wortliy  of  the  regard  and  care  of  Providence,  in  the  bosom  of  equal- 
ity, under  just  laws,  freed  from  the  errors  of  superstition  and  the  scourges 
of  bad  government. '  These  sentences  are  inscribed  on  an  obelisk  situated 
directly  above  this  group. 

GIGANTIC  DECORATIONS  OF  THE  CASCADES. 

"A  great  deal  of  importance  has  been  given  to  history  and  local  color. 
I  had  mentioned  in  my  first  provisional  plans  that  I  wished  to  use  and  con- 
centrate my  principal  efforts  upon  the  elevation  crowned  by  the  Festival 
Hall,  and  give  the  whole  a  jubilant  termination  in  the  gigantic  decorations 
of  the  Cascades,  as  well  as  in  the  fourteen  colossal  statues,  visible  from 
afar  in  the  arches  forming  the  colonnade.  Here,  in  the  first  place,  I  have 
to  mention  the  enormous  group  at  the  head  of  the  Main  Cascade,  and 
which  contains  three  figures:  Liberty,  Justice,  and  Ttuth.  Numerous 
other  groups  follow,  embroidering  the  rushing  waters  of  this  cascade,  the 
subjects  of  which  refer  to  the  human  qualities  which  spring  from  and  are 
fostered  by  Liberty. 

H.   A.    m'NEIL  and   his    WORK   AS   A   SCULPTOR. 

' '  The  entire  decoration  of  this  Main  Cascade  is  the  work  of  Mr.  H.  A. 
MacNeil,  who  was  born  in  Massachusetts  in  1866,  began  his  studies  in 
Boston,  and  was  graduated  with  the  highest  honors  at  the  Massachusetts 
Normal  Art  School.  Later  he  was  called  to  the  position  of  instructor  in 
drawing  at  Cornell  University.  In  1888  he  went  to  Paris  to  continue  his 
studies.  Returning  to  America,  he  assisted  Mr.  Martiny  in  the  prepara- 
tion of  his  sketch  models  for  the  Columbian  Exposition,  and  in  Chicago 
he  did  certain  original  work  on  the  Electricity  building.  Mr.  MacNeil 
soon  tired  of  the  academic  themes  of  the  Parisian  school,  and  determined 


486  Sculpture  of  the  Exposition 

that  the  art  should  be  the  expression  of  something  newer  and  more  vital. 
He  was  early  drawn  toward  the  picturesque  subjects  of  our  own  land. 
Western  life  and  the  Indian  appealed  to  him  with  peculiar  force,  and  he 
made  several  trips  to  the  red  man's  reservations  to  study  what  he  con- 
sidered the  most  sculptural  motifs  which  America  offers.  To  him  those 
living  bronzes  were  as  fine  as  Greek  warriors,  and  quite  as  worthy  to  be 
immortalized. 

^ '  In  these  later  years  we  are  not  surprised  to  find  many  of  our  sculp- 
tors quite  the  equals  of  their  Parisian  colleagues  in  matter  of  technique, 
and  the  superficial  graces  of  modeling.  A  whole  generation  of  young 
men  has  profited  by  the  generous  opportunities  of  the  Beaux- Arts,  and 
every  invention  of  the  Paris  studio,  every  new  felicity  of  touch  seen  in 
the  Salon  is  promptly  reflected  upon  this  side  of  the  Atlantic.  Few  in- 
deed, however,  of  our  brilliant  men  have  brought  back  with  them  as  much 
as  Mr.  MacNeil.  He  has  been  exceedingly  fortunate,  not  only  in  tempera- 
ment and  in  aptitudes,  but  in  opportunity. 

'^His  first  years  of  study  abroad  were  followed  by  much  practical 
experience,  when  his  professional  career  was  interrupted  by  the  signal 
honor  which  conferred  upon  him  the  privileges  of  the  first  Einehart 
scholarship.  Three  years  of  quite  untroubled  study  in  Rome  with  models 
ad  libitum,  enabled  the  ambitious  young  man  to  develop  an  artistic  per- 
sonality, and  to  'find  himself  as  few  sculptors  are  able  to  do  until  after 
many  years  of  the  vicissitudes  and  haphazards  of  professional  life. 

"Kr.  MacNeil 's  skill  increased  daily  as  his  ideas  crystallized  into 
working  principles.  When  he  brought  back  to  America  his  superb 
bronze, '  The  Sun  Vow, '  we  saw  in  it  not  only  a  marvel  of  exquisite  mould- 
ing, but  a  definite  declaration  of  faith.  It  was  MacNeil 's  conception  of 
what  a  sculptural  group  should  be.  This  notable  work  is  full  of  color, 
but  the  construction  is  never  sacrificed  to  surface  charm.  Here  and  there 
the  sculptor  has  simplified  arbitrarily  for  the  purpose  of  subordination, 
but  it  is  always  to  the  advantage  of  the  whole.  One  could  easily  believe 
that  the  sculptor  had  enjoyed  the  still-life  even  more  than  the  figures. 

''What  excellent  opportunities  Mr.  Masqueray's  splendid  plan  pro- 
vided for  MacNeil,  and  how  that  sculptor  availed  himself,  is  beginning  to 
speak  for  itself  in  Festival  Hall  and  the  Colonnade  of  the  States,  and 
the  effect  of  these  structures,  together  with  the  end  pavilions,  is  some- 
thing to  which  I  can  find  no  parallel. 


SCULPTUEE   OF   THE    EXPOSITION  487 


COLOSSAL  STATUES  OF  FOUETEEN  STATES. 

''If  the  Court  of  Honor  at  the  Chicago  Exposition  deserved  and  re- 
ceived admiration,  if  the  Electric  Tower  at  the  Pan-American  Exposition 
lives  in  the  memory  of  our  people  as  a  thing  of  exquisite  beauty,  we  cer- 
tainly find  them  surpassed  in  grandeur,  and  all  other  respects,  by  our 
Cascades,  and  their  surroundings.  From  afar  we  see  outlined  against 
the  horizon  the  colossal  statues  of  the  fourteen  States  composing  the 
purchase  region.  Nowhere  have  I  seen  a  series  of  statues  of  such  size,  and 
in  such  splendid  architectural  setting,  and  of  so  impressive  a  character, 
and  we  need  not  plead  their  temporary  purpose  as  an  excuse  for  artistic 
defects,  for  they  do  great  credit  to  the  number  of  young  sculptors  who 
designed  them. 

AEKANSAS. 

''Arkansas  is  by  Albert  Jaegers,  of  New  York.  This  statue  has  been 
put  before  a  jury  for  an  exposition  in  New  York  in  which  the  judges 
were  the  foremost  men  of  the  artistic  profession  in  our  country:  A.  St. 
Gaudens,  D.  C.  French,  Stanford  White,  John  Carrere,  Carroll  Beck- 
with,  and  others.  This  jury  not  only  accepted  unanimously  this  statue, 
but  allotted  it  a  place  of  honor. 

KANSAS. 

"Kansas  is  by  A.  A.  Weinmann.  Adolph  Weinmann  is  recognized  by 
the  fraternity  as  one  of  the  most  skilful  sculptors  of  the  nude  in  this 
country.  He  was  a  pupil  of  St.  Gaudens  and  Niehaus,  and  has  worked 
for  some  time  in  the  studio  of  the  latter.  His  conception  of  Kansas  is  an 
interesting  one,  although,  perhaps,  somewhat  startling  to  the  elder  in- 
habitants of  that  breezy  State.  His  armorial  groups  for  Machinery  build- 
ing—two boys  supporting  a  shield— are  admirable,  likewise,  but  his  most 
important  contribution  is  the  nobly  expressive  group, '  The  Destiny  of  the 
Eed  Man.' 

NEBEASKA. 

"Nebraska  is  by  F.  H.  Packer.  Frank  H.  Packer  shows  in  his  Ne- 
braska the  results  of  study  with  Martiny,  who  is  able  not  only  to  perform 
prodigies,  but  to  impart  to  others  his  almost  magic  skill  in  the  produc- 
tion of  decorative  effects. 


488  Sculpture  of  the  Exposition 


NORTH    DAKOTA. 

* '  North  Dakota  is  by  B.  L.  Zimm.  Bruno  Louis  Zimm,  the  sculptor  of 
North  Dakota,  is  a  pupil  of  myself,  and  a  thoughtful,  well  educated  young 
man,  whose  refined  art  is  full  of  promise.  This  figure  has  singular  at- 
tractions of  elegance  and  style. 

SOUTH    DAKOTA. 

''South  Dakota  is  by  L.  0.  Lawrie.  Mr.  Lawrie  has  chosen  an  abor- 
iginal type  for  his  subject.  The  head  seems  hardly  worthy  of  the  superb 
body  which  is  one  of  the  most  sculpturesque  conceptions  among  these  per- 
sonifications of  the  States.  Mr.  Lawrie  has  stalwart  qualities  of  mind, 
wliich,  coupled  with  much  skill  of  the  hand,  give  guarantee  of  an  excep- 
tional career. 

MONTANA. 

"Montana  is  by  A.  C.  Skodik.  Mr.  Skodik  makes  in  this  work  his 
debut  before  the  public.  He  is  one  of  the  youngest  of  this  group  which 
the  fair  is  bringing  out,  but  his  work  will  rank  easily  among  the  best. 

OKLAHOMA. 

"Oklahoma  is  by  J.  S.  Conway.  This  sculptor  is  best  known  for  his 
admirable  military  monument  in  Milwaukee,  the  crowning  feature  of 
which  is  a  spirited  'Defense  of  the  Flag,'  a  bronze  group  of  several  fig- 
ures. Mr.  Conway  studied  painting  in  Paris  some  twenty  years  ago,  then 
was  attracted  to  sculpture,  and  has  since  resided  principally  in  Rome, 
in  which  city  he  produced  the  Milwaukee  group. 

INDIAN    TERRITORY. 

"Indian  Territory  is  by  C.  A.  Heber.  Mr.  Heber,  whose  unpretentious 
but  dignified  figure  of  a  squaw  effectively  personifies  Indian  Territory, 
was  bom  in  Hamburg,  but  spent  his  boyhood  in  Chicago,  where  he  began 
his  studies  with  Lorado  Taft.  He  has  since  spent  several  years  in  Paris, 
and  now  practices  his  profession  in  New  York.  His  first  ideal  work  of 
importance  was  a  nude  figure  of  a  piping  shepherd  boy  and  faun,  entitled 
'Pastoral,'  and  exhibited  last  fall  at  the  exhibition  of  the  National  Sculp- 
ture Society.  It  is  a  conception  of  unusual  grace,  and  the  execution  is 
worthy  of  the  theme.  This  figure  also  appears  among  the  decorations  of 
the  fair  grounds. 


Sculpture  of  the  Exposition  489 

''A  group,  'Union,'  by  A.  Eeul,  and  a  second  'Strength,'  by  V.  Al- 
fano,  terminate  the  Colonnade  wherein  these  fourteen  States  are  repre- 
sented, 

THE  ATLANTIC  AND  PACIFIC  OCEANS  IN  STATUARY. 

''While  massiveness  and  dignity  characterize  these  unique  statues,  we 
find  grace,  imagination  and  skilful  treatment  in  the  statuary  designed  by 
Mr.  Isadore  Konti,  of  New  York,  for  the  decoration  of  the  side  cascades. 
The  subjects  for  these  cascades,  'The  Atlantic'  and  'The  Pacific  Ocean,' 
were  selected  with  the  intention  of  symbolizing  the  fact  that  with  the 
acquisition  of  the  Louisiana  region,  the  sway  of  liberty,  truth  and  justice, 
illustrated  in  the  center  cascade,  was  extended  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean. 

"For  the  turbulent  waters  of  the  Atlantic,  Mr.  Konti  chose  the 
powerful  form  of  a  male  figure,  a  soaring  eagle  by  his  side.  The  figure 
of  a  woman  in  graceful  pose  was  selected  for  the  Pacific.  For  the  other 
groups,  disposed  among  the  rushing  waters  of  the  Cascades,  Mr.  Konti 
gives  an  endless  variety  of  spirited  and  refreshing  compositions,  splen- 
didly suited  for  their  purposes,  and  showing  the  artist's  versatility  and 
resources  in  a  most  creditable  light. 

FESTIVAL  HALL  AND  PHILIP   MARTINY. 

' '  The  Festival  Hall  itself,  which  silhouettes  so  gorgeously  against  the 
sky  in  the  midst  of  all  this  beauty,  has  considerable  sculptural  adorn- 
ment. A  group  by  Philip  Martiny,  representing  'Apollo  and  the  Muses,' 
stands  above  the  large  entrance  gate,  which  is  further  flanked  by  groups 
of  'Dance,'  by  Michel  Tonetti,  and  'Music,'  by  A.  Lukeman.  I  cannot 
pass  Mr.  Martiny  without  repeating  a  few  words  which  Lorado  Taft  pub- 
lished regarding  him. 

' '  Philip  Martiny  is  the  most  brilliant  technician  of  our  group  of  dec- 
orative sculptors.  He  was  born  in  Alsace,  France,  in  1858,  being  of  lineal 
descent  from  Simone  di  Martino,  an  Italian  painter  of  the  Sienese  school. 
He  studied  under  Eugene  Dock,  in  Paris,  receiving  the  most  careful  train- 
ing in  the  fundamental  principles  of  his  art.  Later  he  came  to  the  United 
States,  and  became  an  assistant  in  the  studio  of  Augustus  St.  Gaudens, 
where  he  had  broad  experience. 

"Mr.  Martiny  is  unique  in  his  methods.  He  works  with  incredible 
rapidity  and  apparently  with  little  reflection,  but  always  with  such  an 


490  SCULPTUKE    OF   THE    EXPOSITION 

instinct  for  the  right  thing,  decoratively  speaking,  that  he  rarely  fails 
in  his  results.  His  decorations  on  the  Agricultural  building  of  the  Co- 
lumbian Exposition,  brought  this  conspicuously  to  notice.  These  works 
could  scarcely  have  been  surpassed,  and  they  gave  to  decorative  sculpture 
a  higher  standard  than  it  had  held  before  in  this  country.  Of  late,  he 
has  given  much  attention  to  monumental  statuary,  his  excellent  figure 
of  Vice-President  Hobart,  erected  in  Paterson,  N.  J.,  in  1902,  being  his 
first  important  work  in  this  line.  He  is  now  engaged  upon  a  statue  of 
President  McKinley,  for  Springfield,  Mass.  The  design  which  he  has 
projected  for  a  monument  to  Admiral  de  Ternay  and  his  men,  to  be 
erected  at  Newport,  K.  I.,  is  especially  pleasing.  In  front  of  an  obelisk, 
a  winged  figure  is  represented  upon  a  decorative  prow,  lifting  the  victor 's 
wreath,  and  holding  in  her  left  hand  a  trumpet.  The  movement  is  power- 
ful, but  full  of  grace,  the  head  being  more  seriously  considered  than  in 
most  of  Mr.  Martiny's  works,  and  the  wind-blown  drapery  being  charm- 
ingly effective. 

''Mr.  Martiny's  work  could  scarcely  be  characterized  as  an  'impas- 
sioned utterance  of  the  soul. '  As  it  has  been  worded  elsewhere,  he  is  not 
an  interpreter  nor  a  devotee  of  '  character ' ;  he  is  neithr  a  mystic  nor  a 
moralist,  and  to  xpress  in  terms  of  sculpture  the  '  meaning  of  life '  is  no 
part  of  his  programme.  He  is  primarily  and  lastly  a  decorator,  not  by 
chance  or  circumstance,  but  by  instinct.  Hence  his  art  serves  a  legitimate 
purpose  in  delighting  the  eye  and  mind  through  the  poetry  of  light  and 
shadow  and  line.  At  his  best  he  outstrips  all  our  sculptors  in  his  instinct- 
ive decorative  sense,  and  in  his  astonishing  gift  of  plastic  expression. 
Thus  he  supplies  us  with  what  as  a  nation  we  lack— the  gift  which  France 
possesses  in  such  abundance. 

PERMANENT  STATUARY  OF  THE  FINE  ARTS  BUILDING. 

"And  back  of  the  Festival  Hall  the  Fine  Arts  building  fortunately 
absorbs  with  its  permanent  statuary  the  largest  part  of  the  appropriation 
made  for  sculpture.  When  so  much  effort  is  bestowed  upon  things  that 
can  live  but  a  short  time,  it  is  a  relief  to  know  that  not  all  we  have  is 
expended  in  that  way.  Long  after  the  exposition's  magnificence  is  for- 
gotten, and  future  generations  will  recollect  but  its  name,  the  marble  stat- 
ues of  'Sculpture'  and  'Painting,'  by  our  distinguished  artists,  Mr. 
French  and  Mr.  St.  Gaudens,  will  give  pleasure,  and  fulfil  the'  mission 
for  which  their  former  companion  pieces,  so  short  a  time  was  given. 


Sculpture  of  the  Exposition  491 

These  two  statues,  in  American  marble,  are  placed  upon  the  stairway 
leading  to  the  main  entrance  of  the  Fine  Arts  building.  In  a  niche  on  the 
right  wing  of  this  building  we  have  a  statue  of  'Truth,'  by  Charles 
Grafly,  and  on  the  left,  '  Nature, '  by  Philip  Martiny.  Both  of  these  stat- 
ues are  of  bronze,  with  a  golden  surface. 

Above  on  columns  we  have  the  statues  typifying  the  great  periods  of 
Art:  Egyptian  Art,  by  A.  Jaegers;  Classic  Art,  by  F.  E.  Elwell;  Gothic 
Art,  by  John  Gellert ;  Renaissance  Art,  by  C.  Tefft ;  Modern  Art,  by  C.  F. 
Hamman ;  Oriental  Art,  by  Henry  Linder. 

"The  great  masters  of  these  periods  are  portrayed  in  medallions  by 
0.  Piccirilli  and  Geo.  T.  Brewster,  and  among  them  we  have  not  forgotten 
our  own  art  and  its  masters.  The  famous  Richard  M.  Hunt  represents  our 
architecture,  John  Lafarge  our  painting,  and  Augustus  St.  Gaudens  our 
sculpture. 

"In  addition  to  this  we  have  a  frieze  over  the  entrance  by  H.  A.  Mac- 
Neill,  and  crowning  it  all,  surmounting  the  gable  is  a  bronze  figure  of  '  In- 
spiration,' by  Andrew  O'Connor. 

"The  remaining  buildings  have  also  been  provided  with  abundant 
sculptural  decorations. 

"Those  described,  however,  are  the  decorative  masterpieces." 

To  study  the  sculpture  at  the  exposition  without  the  physical  strain 
of  walking  over  the  extensive  grounds,  and,  in  consequence,  viewing 
with  a  tired  brain  the  beauties  disclosed  to  the  eye,  ample  transporta- 
tion facilities  were  provided  as  modern  and  up-to-date  as  other  fea- 
tures of  this  greatest  of  all  expositions. 

ELECTRICITY    THE    PRIME    MOVER. 

Electricity  was  the  prime  mover,  as  witnessed  in  the  Intramural 
railway,  automobiles  and  electric  launches  on  the  lagoons;  yet  the 
picturesque  jinrikshaws,  the  comfortable  roller  chairs  and  the  poetic 
gondolas,  propelled  by  the  hand  of  man,  were  well  in  evidence. 

For  varied  picturesqueness  the  ride  on  the  Intramural  was  without 
an  equal  in  the  world.  Starting  from  a  point  central  among  palaces 
more  ornate  than  any  ever  conjured  by  Aladdin's  lamp,  the  visitor 
was  carried  between  other  structures  of  equal  magnitude  and  grandeur 
on  the  one  side,  and  the  bizarre  habitations  of  Pike  concessionaries  on 
the  other.  From  the  left  came  the  low  hum  of  wheels  and  shafts,  prov- 
ing the  constant  activity  in  the  main  palaces  that  was  a  feature  of 


492  Sculpture  at  the  Exposition 

this  exposition;  from  the  right,  weird  notes  of  Oriental  mnsic  and  the 
voices  of  the  strong-lunged,  calling  attention  to  the  fantastic  sights  to 
be  seen  on  the  Pike. 

VIEWED  FEOM   THE  INTRAMURAL. 

Up  a  grade  sped  the  roomy  and  gaily  decorated  motor  cars,  around 
the  brown  stone  buildings,  which  were  constructed  for  Washington 
University  and  adopted  by  the  world's  fair,  past  the  Hall  of  Con- 
gresses, past  the  domain  of  physical  culture,  the  great  Stadium,  then 
through  fields  of  blue  grass  near  the  Filipino  village,  around  the  mas- 
sive Palace  of  Agriculture,  across  trestles,  up  other  grades  and  into 
the  woods.  Skirting  the  domain  of  state  buildings  the  train  neared 
the  Art  Palace,  tapped  a  central  point  back  of  the  Festival  Hall  and 
Cascades,  entered  a  forest  again,  then  dropped  down  behind  the  Gov- 
ernment building  to  the  level  once  more,  after  having  given  the  pas- 
senger opportunity  to  study  the  magnitude,  architecture  and  sculpture 
of  all  the  principal  features  of  the  exposition. 

MAIN    PICTURE    FROM    A    GONDOLA. 

In  decided  contrast  with  this  over-hill-and-dale  ride  of  the  cars 
was  the  passage  on  launches  and  gondolas  through  the  lagoons  that 
threaded  the  main  picture.  For  these  voyages  the  panorama  on  either 
side  was  a  succession  of  emerald  banks,  studded  with  medallions  of 
flower  beds,  and  in  the  background  majestic  facades  and  columns  and 
heroic  sculptured  figures.  A  transformation  scene  was  witnessed  when 
the  craft  passed  into  the  Grand  Basin,  for  in  the  distance  three  cas- 
cades leaped  and  tumbled  from  their  source  beneath  the  Terrace  of 
States  and  the  Hall  of  Festivals. 

Meanwhile  hundreds  of  automobiles  reached  points  not  accessible 
from  the  Intramural  or  the  boats  on  the  lagoon,  as  did  roller  chairs 
and  those  fanciful  conveyances  from  Japan.  These  comfortable,  slow- 
moving  vehicles  were  especially  liked  by  persons  who  wished  to  study 
the  architecture  and  sculpture  of  the  great  buildings  at  their  leisure, 
and  who  could  take  their  time  in  ' '  doing  the  fair. ' ' 


CHAPTER.    XXXIV. 
WOME^N    MANAGERS    AND    LACES 

Architecture  and  Interior  Arrangement  of  Building — Duties  and  Members  of  the  Board  of 
Lady  Managers — Distribution  of  Woman's  Work  at  the  Fair — Lace-Making  Among 
the  Ancient  Arts — History  and  Exhibit  of  Valenciennes  Lace — The  Elaborate  French 
Lace,  Point  d'Alencon. 

'HE"  Physics  building  of  the  Washington  University  plant  consti- 
tuted the  Woman's  building  at  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposi- 
tion. That  structure  extended  directly  west  from  the  Library  building. 
Its  dimensions  are  178  by  69  feet.  Although  it  joins  the  Library  build- 
ing directly,  it  is  a  distinct  individual  architectural  composition.  Like 
the  rest  of  the  University  buildings,  it  is  a  permanent  structure,  built 
of  red  hammer-faced  Missouri  granite  laid  in  broken  ranges,  and  its 
decorations  are  of  Bedford  cut-stone. 

AECHITECTUKE    AND    INTEEIOR   AERANGBMElsrT. 

The  building  has  two  long  fronts,  each  perfectly  developed  by  the 
architects.  Two  projecting  bays,  located  at  equal  distances  from  the 
ends  of  the  building  and  surmounted  by  an  ornamental  gable,  break  up 
the  facade. 

The  ornamentation  is  massed  at  the  entrances,  which  are  placed  at 
the  extreme  eastern  and  western  ends  of  the  structure.  A  beautiful 
Gothic  arch  in  cut-stone  surmounts  each  of  these  entrances,  and  above  the 
arch  is  a  highly  ornate  oriel  window  surmounted  by  battlements.  Down- 
spouts of  hammered  copper  enriched  with  University  monogram  and 
clusters  of  Elizabethan  chimneys  form  effective  points  on  the  building. 

The  interior  arrangement  of  the  structure  was  left  to  the  Board  of 
Lady  Managers.  The  building  included  four  rooms,  each  105  feet  long  by 
18  feet  wide.  Apartments  25  by  29  feet  in  each  of  the  bays  mentioned 
above  were  equipped  as  lecture  rooms,  and  were  used  effectively  for  a 
variety  of  purposes. 

The  building  was  one  of  the  coolest  on  the  grounds,  inasmuch  as  its 

493 


494  Women  Managers  and  Laces 

long  exposure  is  to  the  south  and  free  circulation  of  air  from  south  to  north 
is  possible  at  all  times.  Cope  &  Stewardson,  of  Philadelphia  and  St. 
Louis,  were  the  architects  of  this  structure,  as  well  as  of  the  rest  of  the 
Uinversity  buildings. 

The  building  divides  the  second  quadrangle  of  the  University  group 
from  the  third  quadrangle. 

DUTIES  AND   MEMBERS  OF  THE   BOARD   OF  LADY   MANAGERS. 

The  Board  of  Lady  Managers  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition 
was  organized  along  lines  similar  to  those  governing  the  Board  of  Lady 
Managers  at  the  World's  Columbian  Exposition  at  Chicago,  ten  years 
before.  The  latter  body,  the  first  of  its  kind  of  record,  had  placed  in  its 
hands  all  the  interests  of  women  in  connection  with  the  world 's  fair.  Tlie 
same  rule  applied  at  St.  Louis.  Extensive  social  duties  fell  upon  its  mem- 
bers, as  well  as  the  routine  duties  of  promoting  woman 's  work  at  the  fair. 
Mrs.  James  L.  Blair  was  first  named  as  president.  When  the  tragic  turn 
in  her  husband's  affairs  came  like  a  blighting  fall  upon  her  life,  she 
withdrew  and  was  succeeded  by  Mrs.  Daniel  Manning,  originally  eighth 
vice-president.  Throughout  the  exposition  the  following  officers  assisted 
her  in  presiding  over  its  affairs: 

Mrs.  Edward  L.  Buchwalter,  First  Vice-President;  Mrs.  Finis  P. 
Ernest,  Second  Vice-President ;  Mrs.  Helen  Boice-Hunsicker,  Third  Vice- 
President;  Miss  Anna  Ij.  Dawes,  Fourth  Vice-President;  Mrs.  Belle  L. 
Everest,  Fifth  Vice-President;  Mrs.  M.  H.  deYoung,  Sixth  Vice-Presi- 
dent; Mrs.  Fannie  L.  Porter,  Seventh  Vice-President;  Mrs.  Freedrick  M. 
Hanger,  Secretary;  Mrs.  William  H.  Coleman,  Treasurer. 

The  full  membership  consisted  of  the  following:  Miss  Helen  M. 
Gould,  New  York  City ;  Mrs.  John  M.  Holcombe,  Hartford,  Conn. ;  Kiss 
Anna  L.  Dawes,  Pittsfield,  Mass. ;  Mrs.  Fannie  L.  Porter,  Atlanta,  Ga. ; 
Mrs.  Frederick  M.  Hanger,  Little  Kock,  Ark.;  Mrs.  W.  E.  Andrews, 
Washington,  D.  C. ;  Mrs.  Helen  Boice-Hunsicker,  Philadelphia,  Pa. ;  Mrs. 
Eichard  W.  Knott,  Louisville,  Ky. ;  Mrs.  M.  H.  deYoung,  San  Francisco, 
Cal. ;  Mrs.  Belle  L.  Everest,  Atchison,  Kan. ;  Mrs.  Margaret  P.  Daly,  Ana- 
conda, Mont. ;  Mrs.  Wm.  H.  Coleman,  Indianapolis,  Ind. ;  Mrs.  Louis  D. 
Frost,  Winona,  Mont. ;  Mrs.  Finis  P.  Ernest,  Denver,  Col. ;  Mrs.  Edward 
L.  Buchwalter,  Springfield,  Ohio;  Mrs.  Mary  Phelps  Montgomery,  Port- 
land, Ore. ;  Mrs.  John  Miller  Horton,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. ;  Mrs.  Daniel  Man- 
ning, Washington,  D.  C. ;  Mrs.  A.  L.  von  Mayhoff,  New  York  City ;  Mrs. 


Women  Managees  and  Laces  495 

James  Edmund  Sullivan,  Providence,  E.  I. ;  Mrs.  Annie  McLean  Moores, 
Mt.  Pleasant,  Tex. ;  Miss  Lavinia  Egan,  Shreveport,  La. 

The  official  badge  for  members  of  the  Board  of  Lady  Managers  con- 
sisted of  an  eagle  surmounting  a  globe  on  which  was  engraved  L.  P.  E. 
They  bore  a  medallion  relief  of  Napoleon,  Livingston  and  Jefferson,  with 
their  name  and  date,  1803-1903,  in  a  wreath.  Board  Lady  Managers  was 
engraved  on  the  scroll  tying  the  wreath. 

DISTEIBUTION   OF    WOMAN 's   WOKK   AT   THE   FAIR. 

Women 's  work  at  the  fair  was  displayed  mostly  in  the  various  state 
buildings,^  many  of  the  states  having  women's  departments,  and  in  the 
Palace  of  Varied  Industries  and  the  Palace  of  Manufacturers.  In  the  lat- 
ter were  shown  a  marvelous  display  of  laces,  including  French,  English, 
Irish,  German,  Swiss  and  Japanese  laces.  The  exhibit  of  domestic  laces 
was  chiefly  of  lace  curtains  and  such  stuffs.  Some  of  the  displays  in- 
cluded exhibits  of  lace-making  processes,  particularly  of  the  kinds  of  lace 
made  by  hand.  Specimens  of  rare  laces  were  shown  by  some  of  the  for- 
eign governments,  notably  Belgium  and  France. 

LACE-MAKING   AMONG  THE   ANCIENT  AETS. 

When  a  woman  lovingly  touches  a  delicate  bit  of  old  lace  it  should 
intensify  her  reverence  to  realize  that  she  is  in  close  communion  with  one 
of  the  most  ancient  and  beautiful  arts  of  needlecraft.  The  prophet 
Isaiah  makes  mention  of  ' '  they  that  weave  networks, ' '  the  wrappings  of 
mummies  found  in  Egyptian  and  Greco-Roman  tombs  are  ornamented 
with  drawn  work,  cut  work  and  other  open  ornamentation.  Homer  sings 
of  veils  of  net  woven  with  gold  and  there  are  now  in  existence  examples 
of  Saracenic  drawn  linen  which  date  back  to  the  10th  or  11th  century 
before  the  Christian  era. 

Historically  and  artistically,  therefore,  the  lace  exhibits  made  at 
the  world's  fair  possess  a  vital  interest.  The  story  of  every  aristocracy 
the  world  has  known  can  be  told  in  varying  forms  through  the  medium 
of  lace.  The  very  foundation  of  the  lace  ground  of  the  present  day  was 
unearthed  in  a  Roman  cemetery  in  middle  Egypt,  a  treasured  adorn- 
ment of  the  haughtiest  caste  the  world  has  seen.  But,  unlike  most  ancient 
arts,  the  fullest  glory  of  lace-making  was  reached  at  a  comparatively  late 
period,  that  of  the  medieval  age. 

North  Italy  and  Flanders  led  the  way  in  the  development,  exactly 


496  Women  Managbks  and  Laces 

as  they  did  in  pictorial  arts.  Thence  it  spread  to  England,  Spain,  France, 
Ireland,  Russia,  Sweden  and  other  countries.  During  its  stage  of  devel- 
opment lace-making  was  taught  principally  in  convents,  and  lace  was 
used  almost  exclusively  for  trimming  sacerdotal  vestments,  so  that  to 
this  day  it  is  still  called  ''nun's  work"  in  outlying  districts  in  England 
and  the  Continent.  In  the  course  of  time  the  making  of  lace  became  a 
recognized  industry  and  its  beauty  gave  it  high  favor  among  the  nobility. 

HISTORY  AND  EXHIBIT  OF  VALENCIENNES  LACE. 

A  woman  seems  to  know  and  appreciate  artistry  in  lace  by  inherited 
instinct.  Of  the  renowned  laces  Valenciennes  is  perhaps  the  foremost. 
Its  manufacture  was  begun  in  the  fifteenth  century  by  one  Pierre  Chauvin 
in  the  town  of  Valenciennes,  then  a  part  of  the  ancient  Flemish  Hainault, 
ceded  to  France  in  the  latter  half  of  the  seventeenth  century.  This  lace 
is  remarkable  for  beauty  of  ground,  richness  of  design  and  evenness  of 
tissue. 

The  earliest  Valenciennes  designs,  such  as  were  shown  at  the  world's 
fair,  are  very  beautiful,  consisting  of  flowers  and  scrolls  on  grounds  of 
minute  circles,  sometimes  surrounded  by  other  circles.  Later  eighteenth 
century  Valenciennes  contains  tulips,  carnations  and  anemones  wrought 
with  singular  fidelity.  Mme.  du  Barry  had  a  craze  for  this  lace,  which 
is  frequently  mentioned  in  her  history. 

THE  ELABOEATE   FEENCH  LACE,   POINT  d'   ALENCON. 

Point  d'  Alencon  lace  was  first  produced  as  the  result  of  royal  edict  in 
France  forbidding  the  wearing  of  Spanish  and  Italian  laces,  and  is  the 
most  elaborate  needle-point  lace  which  the  French  have  made.  Its  vary- 
ing patterns  were  found  by  visitors  at  the  fair  to  correspond  with  the 
style  of  decoration  in  houses  and  furniture  of  successive  historic  periods. 
At  first  the  designs  were  flowing  and  undulating,  after  Venetian  models. 
Then,  in  the  eighteenth  century,  garlands  appear  in  the  patterns,  while 
one  of  the  famous  designs,  that  of  the  wedding  veil  of  Princess  Helene 
^  France,  who  married  the  Due  d'Aosta  in  1895,  contained  a  floral  design, 
with  medallions  in  the  center  enclosing  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  bride- 
groom surmounted  by  the  Cross  of  Savoy,  the  Fleur-de-lis  and  the  arms 
of  France.  Point  d'  Alencon  is  sometimes  called  "a  winter  lace"  on 
account  of  its  being  of  a  thick  and  firm  make. 


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